Delivery systems for cosmetics - From manufacturing to the skin of natural antioxidants

A Novel Strategy for Topical Administration by Combining Chitosan Hydrogel Beads with Nanostructured Lipid Carriers: Preparation, Characterization, and Evaluation

The objective of the present study was to develop and evaluate NLC-chitosan hydrogel beads for topical administration. The feasibility of the preparation technology was verified by investigating various formulation factors and the impact of chitosan hydrogel beads on the NLC. The encapsulation efficiency of NLC-chitosan hydrogel beads was above 95% in optimized process conditions. The physical characterization of the NLC-chitosan hydrogel beads showed that the NLC was distributed within the network of the chitosan hydrogel beads. Furthermore, the incorporation of NLC into the chitosan hydrogel beads was related to the electrostatic interaction between the surface of the NLC and chitosan, which influenced the lipid ordering degree of the NLC and contributed to the stability. The stability studies showed that the retention rate of quercetin in the NLC-chitosan hydrogel beads was 88.63 ± 2.57% after 10 months of storage under natural daylight. An in vitro permeation study showed that NLC-chitosan hydrogel beads exhibited superior ability in enhancing skin permeation by hydrophobic active ingredients compared to the NLC and significantly increased skin accumulation. These studies demonstrated that the use of NLC-chitosan hydrogel beads might be a promising strategy for the delivery of hydrophobic active ingredients in topical administration.

Cosmetic application of the stem-bark extract of Bertholletia excelsa H.B.K

OBJECTIVE

The Amazon has a rich biodiversity where many different plant species can be found. This diversity is an important source of bioactive substances, mainly due to the different structural components of their phytometabolites. Research for natural products is a strategy for the development of new agents in therapeutic applications, especially cosmetic applications, that have better pharmacological potential. Within this perspective, the objective of the study was to investigate the cosmetic application (anti-aging potential) of the stem-bark extract of Bertholletia excelsa H.B.K - (SBEBE), popularly known as the Brazil nut tree, here called SBEBE, a noble plant species of the Amazon that is rich in selenium.

METHODS

Enzymatic, glycation, proliferation, cell-healing, collagen quantification, toxicity and genotoxicity assays were used.

RESULTS

Among the enzymes involved in the extracellular matrix of the skin, SBEBE was able to inhibit only elastase (62.67 ± 3.75) when compared to the standard sivelestat (89.04 ± 0.53), and the extract was also able to inhibit both the oxidative and the non-oxidative pathway. When cell toxicity in fibroblasts (MRC-5) and keratinocytes (HACAT) was evaluated, SBEBE did not present toxicity in 24 h of incubation. After this period, the extract showed average cytotoxicity in 48 and 72 h, but not enough to reach the concentration of 50% of MRC-5 fibroblasts. In the trypan blue assay, the extract promoted fibroblast proliferation in 24, 48 and 72 h of incubation, which was evaluated through exponential cell growth, with emphasis mainly on the lowest concentration with results higher than the standard. When the cell healing capacity was evaluated, in 48 h of exposure to fibroblast, SBEBE was able to induce a cell carpet (cell film) in the cell monolayer scratch assay.

CONCLUSIONS

SBEBE stimulated collagen production at all concentrations tested. In the alkaline comet assay, at the lowest concentration, the extract did not induce DNA damage when compared to the reference drug doxorubicin. This study proved that SBEBE extract can be considered an ally in the treatment of skin anti-ageing as a possible biotechnological, phytocosmetic product.

Quality by design for sumatriptan loaded nano-ethosomal mucoadhesive gel for the therapeutic management of nitroglycerin induced migraine

Migraine is a progressive neurological condition often accompanied by nausea and vomiting. Various drugs have recently been used in the treatment of migraine, including sumatriptan (SUT). However, SUT has poor pharmacological effects mainly due to its reduced permeability, blood brain barrier (BBB) effect, half-life and bioavailability. Herein, we developed SUT loaded nano-ethosomes (SUT-NEs) for intranasal (IN) delivery, after their incorporation into chitosan based mucoadhesive gel (SUT-NEsG). The observed mean particle size of SUT-NEs was 109.45 ± 4.03 nm with spherical morphology, mono dispersion (0.191 ± 0.001), negatively charged (-20.90 ± 1.98 mV) and with excellent entrapment efficiency (96.90 ± 1.85 %). Fourier-transform infrared (FTIR) spectra have depicted the compatibility of the components. Moreover, SUT-NEsG was homogeneous having suitable viscosity and mucoadhesive strength. In vitro release and ex vivo permeation analysis showed sustained release and improved permeation of the SUT-NEsG, respectively. Additionally, histopathological studies of nasal membrane affirmed the safety of SUT-NEsG after IN application. In vivo pharmacokinetic study demonstrated improved brain bioavailability of SUT-NEsG as compared to orally administered sumatriptan solution (SUT-SL). Furthermore, significantly enhanced pharmacological effect of SUT-NEsG was observed in behavioral and biochemical analysis, immunohistochemistry for NF-κB, and enzyme linked immuno assay (ELISA) for IL-1β and TNF-α in Nitroglycerin (NTG) induced migraine model. It can be concluded that migraine may be successfully managed through IN application of SUT-NEsG owing to the direct targeted delivery to the brain.

Innovative Topical Patches for Non-Melanoma Skin Cancer: Current Challenges and Key Formulation Considerations

Non-melanoma skin cancer (NMSC) is the most prevalent malignancy worldwide, with approximately 6.3 million new cases worldwide in 2019. One of the key management strategies for NMSC is a topical treatment usually utilised for localised and early-stage disease owing to its non-invasive nature. However, the efficacy of topical agents is often hindered by poor drug penetration and patient adherence. Therefore, various research groups have employed advanced drug delivery systems, including topical patches to overcome the problem of conventional topical treatments. This review begins with an overview of NMSC as well as the current landscape of topical treatments for NMSC, specifically focusing on the emerging technology of topical patches. A detailed discussion of their potential to overcome the limitations of existing therapies will then follow. Most importantly, to the best of our knowledge, this work unprecedentedly combines and discusses all the current advancements in innovative topical patches for the treatment of NMSC. In addition to this, the authors present our insights into the key considerations and emerging trends in the construction of these advanced topical patches. This review is meant for researchers and clinicians to consider utilising advanced topical patch systems in research and clinical trials toward localised interventions of NMSC.

Nanotechnology-Based Drug Delivery Systems in the Transdermal Treatment of Melanoma

The incidence rate of melanoma is dramatically increasing worldwide, raising it to the fifth most common cancer in men and the sixth in women currently. Resistance generally occurs to the agents used in chemotherapy; besides their high toxicity destroys the normal cells. This study reviewed a detailed summary of the structure, advantages, and disadvantages of nanotechnology-based drug delivery systems in the treatment of melanoma, as well as some nanocarrier applications in animal models or clinical studies. Respective databases were searched for the target keywords and 93 articles were reviewed and discussed. A close study of the liposomes, niosomes, transferosomes, ethosomes, transethosomes, cubosomes, dendrimers, cyclodextrins, solid lipid nanoparticles, and carbon nanotubes (CNTs) was conducted. It was found that these nanocarriers could inhibit metastasis and migration of melanoma cells and decrease cell viability. Conclusively, some nanocarriers like liposomes, niosomes, and transferosomes have been discussed as superior to conventional therapies for melanoma treatment.

Exploiting Pharma 4.0 Technologies in the Non-Biological Complex Drugs Manufacturing: Innovations and Implications

The pharmaceutical industry has entered an era of transformation with the emergence of Pharma 4.0, which leverages cutting-edge technologies in manufacturing processes. These hold tremendous potential for enhancing the overall efficiency, safety, and quality of non-biological complex drugs (NBCDs), a category of pharmaceutical products that pose unique challenges due to their intricate composition and complex manufacturing requirements. This review attempts to provide insight into the application of select Pharma 4.0 technologies, namely machine learning, in silico modeling, and 3D printing, in the manufacturing process of NBCDs. Specifically, it reviews the impact of these tools on NBCDs such as liposomes, polymeric micelles, glatiramer acetate, iron carbohydrate complexes, and nanocrystals. It also addresses regulatory challenges associated with the implementation of these technologies and presents potential future perspectives, highlighting the incorporation of digital twins in this field of research as it seems to be a very promising approach, namely for the optimization of NBCDs manufacturing processes.

Rheological and Viscoelastic Analysis of Hybrid Formulations for Topical Application

The rheological and viscoelastic properties of hybrid formulations composed of vehicles designed for cutaneous topical application and loaded with ultradeformable liposomes (UDL) were assessed. UDL were selected for their established ability to transport both lipophilic and hydrophilic compounds through the skin, and are applicable in pharmaceuticals and cosmetics. Formulations underwent flow analysis and were fitted to the Herschel-Bulkley model due to their prevalent non-Newtonian behavior in most cases. Linear viscoelastic regions (LVR) were identified, and G' and G″ moduli were determined via frequency sweep steps, considering the impact of temperature and aging. The formulations exhibited non-Newtonian behavior with pseudoplastic traits in most cases, with UDL incorporation inducing rheological changes. LVR and frequency sweep tests indicated predominantly elastic solid behavior, with G' higher than G″, at different temperatures and post-production times. Tan δ values also illustrated a predominant solid-like behavior over liquid. This study provides pivotal insights into the rheological and viscoelastic features of topical formulations, emphasizing the crucial role of meticulous vehicle and formulation selection when incorporating UDL or analogous liposomal drug delivery systems.

Current Insights into the Formulation and Delivery of Therapeutic and Cosmeceutical Agents for Aging Skin

“Successful aging” counters the traditional idea of aging as a disease and is increasingly equated with minimizing age signs on the skin, face, and body. From this stems the interest in preventative aesthetic dermatology that might help with the healthy aging of skin, help treat or prevent certain cutaneous disorders, such as skin cancer, and help delay skin aging by combining local and systemic methods of therapy, instrumental devices, and invasive procedures. This review will discuss the main mechanisms of skin aging and the potential mechanisms of action for commercial products already on the market, highlighting the issues related to the permeation of the skin from different classes of compounds, the site of action, and the techniques employed to overcome aging. The purpose is to give an overall perspective on the main challenges in formulation development, especially nanoparticle formulations, which aims to defeat or slow down skin aging, and to highlight new market segments, such as matrikines and matrikine-like peptides. In conclusion, by applying enabling technologies such as those delivery systems outlined here, existing agents can be repurposed or fine-tuned, and traditional but unproven treatments can be optimized for efficacious dosing and safety.

Extraction Optimization, Antioxidant, Cosmeceutical and Wound Healing Potential of Echinacea purpurea Glycerolic Extracts

Echinacea purpurea is a plant with immunomodulating properties, often used in topical preparations for treatment of small superficial wounds. In the presented study, the best conditions for ultrasound-assisted extraction of caffeic acid derivatives (caftaric and cichoric acid) (TPA-opt extract), as well as the conditions best suited for preparation of the extract with high radical scavenging activity (RSA-opt extract), from E. purpurea aerial parts were determined. A Box-Behnken design based on glycerol content (%, w/w), temperature (°C), ultrasonication power (W) and time (min) as independent variables was performed. Antioxidant, antiaging and wound healing effects of the two prepared extracts were evaluated. The results demonstrate that glycerol extraction is a fast and efficient method for preparation of the extracts with excellent radical scavenging, Fe²⁺ chelating and antioxidant abilities. Furthermore, the extracts demonstrated notable collagenase, elastase and tyrosinase inhibitory activity, indicating their antiaging properties. Well-pronounced hyaluronidase-inhibitory activities, with IC₅₀ values lower than 30 μL extract/mL, as well as the ability to promote scratch closure in HaCaT keratinocyte monolayers, even in concentrations as low as 2.5 μL extract/mL (for RSA-opt), demonstrate promising wound healing effects of E. purpurea. The fact that the investigated extracts were prepared using glycerol, a non-toxic and environmentally friendly solvent, widely used in cosmetics, makes them suitable for direct use in specialized cosmeceutical formulations.

Investigation of the structure of gallate xylose polymers and their antioxidant properties for skin care products

Xylose is the second most abundant monosaccharide in nature, and gallic acid (GA) has properties of antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and anti-bacterial. Hence, the gallate xylose (GX) polymers were synthesized from d-xylose and gallic acid for skin care applications in this paper. Then, the structure, generation mechanisms and the antioxidant activity of the generated polymer were studied. It got the results that: The generated GX polymers have strong antioxidant properties, yielded in 80.1% of GA mass. The DPPH scavenging activity was over 80.0% under the polymer's solution over 0.2 mg/mL. Moreover, the reaction mechanisms of DPPH removal were explained in a new theory based on Mass spectral analysis. Therefore, it demonstrates that the GX polymers of is a potential antioxidant material for skin care products, and it does contribution to the theory of DPPH removal for application in the fields of chemistry, biology and medicine researches.

Nanoparticles for Topical Application in the Treatment of Skin Dysfunctions-An Overview of Dermo-Cosmetic and Dermatological Products

Nanomaterials (NM) arouse interest in various fields of science and industry due to their composition-tunable properties and the ease of modification. They appear currently as components of many consumer products such as sunscreen, dressings, sports clothes, surface-cleaning agents, computer devices, paints, as well as pharmaceutical and cosmetics formulations. The use of NPs in products for topical applications improves the permeation/penetration of the bioactive compounds into deeper layers of the skin, providing a depot effect with sustained drug release and specific cellular and subcellular targeting. Nanocarriers provide advances in dermatology and systemic treatments. Examples are a non-invasive method of vaccination, advanced diagnostic techniques, and transdermal drug delivery. The mechanism of action of NPs, efficiency of skin penetration, and potential threat to human health are still open and not fully explained. This review gives a brief outline of the latest nanotechnology achievements in products used in topical applications to prevent and treat skin diseases. We highlighted aspects such as the penetration of NPs through the skin (influence of physical-chemical properties of NPs, the experimental models for skin penetration, methods applied to improve the penetration of NPs through the skin, and methods applied to investigate the skin penetration by NPs). The review summarizes various therapies using NPs to diagnose and treat skin diseases (melanoma, acne, alopecia, vitiligo, psoriasis) and anti-aging and UV-protectant nano-cosmetics.

Sensitive ex vivo human skin transdermal assay testing method with mass spectrometric analysis for cosmetics application

BACKGROUND

Cosmetics manufacturers are focused on cosmetic delivery systems into the skin, but the level of diffusion of the systems in the skin tissues is not well understood. The current methods, such as Franz diffusion, assess analyte diffusion in the whole skin or artificial membranes, which has limitations for understanding skin delivery systems.

AIMS

Our study aimed to create a transdermal delivery method which is based on dermal-epidermal separation of human skin, allowing us to assess each layer of skin separately for its efficacy.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

During the experiment, resveratrol was used as the target analyte by applying it to the skin and then separating it into dermis and epidermis. Each layer is treated individually and subjected to a high-resolution mass spectrometry analysis to detect resveratrol levels. As a result, the efficiency of resveratrol diffusion in the dermal and epidermal layers of the skin can be evaluated.

RESULTS

We found that resveratrol was detected in both the dermal and epidermal layers using our method.

CONCLUSIONS

Hence, we developed a sensitive method for transdermal delivery testing that can be used to evaluate skin delivery systems for cosmetic or pharmaceutical purposes.

Salicylic Acid Co-Precipitation with Alginate via Supercritical Atomization for Cosmetic Applications

Alginate-based microparticles were produced via supercritical assisted atomization (SAA) with the aim of obtaining a biocompatible and low-cost carrier for the delivery of active compounds in cosmetic applications. Salicylic acid was selected as an active model compound, and it was co-precipitated with alginate via SAA, operating at 82 bar and 80 °C. In particular, the drug-to-polymer weight ratio was fixed at 1/4, whereas polymer concentration was varied from 5 to 20 mg/mL in the starting aqueous solution. Operating in this way, alginate-salicylic acid microparticles were characterized by a mean diameter of 0.72 ± 0.25 µm, and the active compound became amorphous after processing. A salicylic acid encapsulation efficiency close to 100% was reached, and the drug release time from the biopolymeric microparticles was prolonged up to nine times with respect to untreated salicylic acid powder.

A Green Tea Containing Skincare System Improves Skin Health and Beauty in Adults: An Exploratory Controlled Clinical Study

Skin dryness, fine lines and wrinkles, red spots, red vasculature, and porphyrin count are common indicators of skin health and beauty. The skincare system in this study contains scientifically validated ingredients such as fermented green tea (Camellia sinensis) water, niacinamide, antioxidants, and a variety of natural plant extracts. The purpose of this study was to evaluate the effectiveness of this skincare system in improving facial-skin health and beauty. Twenty-six healthy adults, both female and male, aged 18–54 and of all skin types and tones, were included in the study and participated as either the active or the control group (competitor product) using designated topical products for 30 days. Skin moisture, fine lines and wrinkles, porphyrin count, red spots, and red vasculature count were measured through high-quality photography, Visia® complexion analysis, FitSkin® skin analysis, and survey questions on day 0, day 8, and day 30. Significant improvements were observed in facial moisture, red-spot count, red vasculature count, and porphyrin count on day 30 in comparison with the control group. Non-significant improvements were observed in pores, skin texture, and wrinkles. With extensive well-documented functional ingredients, the studied skincare system used daily may significantly improve key areas of skin health and beauty.

An Update Regarding the Bioactive Compound of Cereal By-Products: Health Benefits and Potential Applications

Cereal processing generates around 12.9% of all food waste globally. Wheat bran, wheat germ, rice bran, rice germ, corn germ, corn bran, barley bran, and brewery spent grain are just a few examples of wastes that may be exploited to recover bioactive compounds. As a result, a long-term strategy for developing novel food products and ingredients is encouraged. High-value compounds like proteins, essential amino acids, essential fatty acids, ferulic acid, and other phenols, tocopherols, or β-glucans are found in cereal by-products. This review aims to provide a critical and comprehensive overview of current knowledge regarding the bioactive compounds recovered from cereal by-products, emphasizing their functional values and potential human health benefits.

Trends and challenges in phytotherapy and phytocosmetics for skin aging

•

Free radicals, oxidative stress, and inflammation contribute to the etiology of most chronic diseases.

•

Natural products can be incorporated into cosmetics, cosmeceuticals, and nutricosmetics to tackle inflammation-related diseases.

•

The use of alternative green extraction solvents such as natural deep eutectic solvents and electrochemically reduced water is trending.

•

Delivery systems are important for the enhancement of the bioavailability, stability, solubility, and controlled release profile of the bioactives.

Oxidative stress and inflammation mostly contribute to aging and age-related conditions including skin aging. The potential of natural products in the form of naturally-derived cosmetics, cosmeceuticals, and nutricosmetics have, however, not been fully harnessed. This review, thus, critically analyzes the potential roles of natural products in inflammation-related skin aging diseases due to the increasing consumers’ concerns and demands for efficacious, safe, natural, sustainable, and religiously permitted alternatives to synthetic products. The information and data were collated from various resources and literature databases such as PubMed, Science Direct, Wiley, Springer, Taylor and Francis, Scopus, Inflibnet, Google, and Google Scholar using relevant keywords and Medical Subject Headings (MeSH). The role of green extraction solvents as promising alternatives is also elucidated. The potential enhancements of the bioavailability, stability, solubility and controlled release profile of the bioactives using different delivery systems are also presented. The current potential global market value, motivators, drivers, trends, challenges, halal, and other regulatory certifications for cosmeceuticals and nutricosmetics are equally discussed. The adoption of the suggested extractions and delivery systems would enhance the stability, bioavailability, and target delivery of the bioactives.

Effect of Mixed Particulate Emulsifiers on Spray-Dried Avocado Oil-in-Water Pickering Emulsions

Avocado oil is a very valuable agro-industrial product which can be perishable in a short time if it is not stored in the right conditions. The encapsulation of the oils through the spray drying technique protects them from oxidation and facilitates their incorporation into different pharmaceutical products and food matrices; however, the selection of environmentally friendly emulsifiers is a great challenge. Four formulations of the following solid particles: Gum Arabic, HI-CAP^®100 starch, and phosphorylated waxy maize starch, were selected to prepare avocado oil Pickering emulsions. Two of the formulations have the same composition, but one of them was emulsified by rotor-stator homogenization. The rest of the emulsions were emulsified by combining rotor-stator plus ultrasound methods. The protective effect of mixed particle emulsifiers in avocado oil encapsulated by spray drying was based on the efficiency of encapsulation. The best results were achieved when avocado oil was emulsified with a mixture of phosphorylated starch/HI-CAP^®100, where it presented the highest encapsulation efficiency.

In Vitro Skin Co-Delivery and Antibacterial Properties of Chitosan-Based Microparticles Containing Ascorbic Acid and Nicotinamide

Vitamins are widely found in nature, for example, in plants and fruits. Ascorbic acid and nicotinamide are examples of these compounds that have potent antioxidant properties, besides stimulating collagen production and depigmenting properties that protect the skin from premature aging. To overcome the skin barrier and reduce the instability of antioxidant compounds, alternative systems have been developed to facilitate the delivery of antioxidants, making them efficiently available to the tissue for an extended time without causing damage or toxicity. The objective of this study was to obtain chitosan biodegradable microparticles containing ascorbic acid and nicotinamide for topical delivery. The microparticles were obtained by spray drying and characterized chemically by means of scanning electron microscopy, infrared spectroscopy, X-ray diffraction, and differential exploratory calorimetry. The drugs were successfully encapsulated and the microparticles showed positive zeta potential. In vitro release assays showed a sustained release profile. The evaluation of ex vivo skin permeation and retention demonstrated low permeation and adequate retention of the compounds in the epidermis/dermis, suggesting the efficient delivery from the obtained microparticles. Antibacterial assays have shown that microparticles can inhibit the growth of microorganisms in a time- and dose-dependent manner, corroborating their use in cosmetic products for application on the skin.

Emerging trends of nanotechnology in advanced cosmetics

The cosmetic industry is dynamic and ever-evolving. Especially with the introduction and incorporation of nanotechnology-based approaches into cosmetics for evincing novel formulations that confers aesthetic as well as therapeutic benefits. Nanocosmetics acts via numerous delivery mechanisms which involves lipid nanocarrier systems, polymeric or metallic nanoparticles, nanocapsules, dendrimers, nanosponges,etc. Each of these, have particular characteristic properties, which facilitates increased drug loading, enhanced absorption, better cosmetic efficacy, and many more. This article discusses the different classes of nanotechnology-based cosmetics and the nanomaterials used for their formulation, followed by outlining the categories of nanocosmetics and the scope of their utility pertaining to skin, hair, nail, lip, and/or dental care and protection thereof. This review also highlights and discusses about the key drivers of the cosmetic industry and the impending need of corroborating a healthy regulatory framework, refocusing attention towards consumer needs and trends, inculcating sustainable techniques and tenets of green ecological principles, and lastly making strides in nano-technological advancements which will further propel the growth of the cosmetic industry.

Sustainability in Skin Care: Incorporation of Avocado Peel Extracts in Topical Formulations

The avocado peel is an agro-industrial by-product that has exhibited a massive increase in its production in the last few years. The reuse and valorisation of this by-product are essential since its disposal raises environmental concerns. In the present study, ethanolic extracts of avocado peels of the Hass variety were obtained, for three extraction times (1.5 h, 3 h and 4 h) and analysed for their antioxidant and antibacterial properties. Antioxidant evaluations of the extracts revealed that the extraction time of 1.5 h exhibited the best results amongst the three, with a DPPH inhibition percentage of 93.92 ± 1.29 and an IC₅₀ percentage, the necessary concentration of the extract to inhibit 50% of DPPH, of 37.30 ± 1.00. The antibacterial capacity of the extracts was evaluated and it was revealed that they were able to inhibit the growth and development of bacteria of the Staphylococcus family. The obtained extract was incorporated in two types of cosmetic formulations (oil-in-water and water-in-oil) and their stability was evaluated and compared with formulations containing synthetic preservatives (BHT and phenoxyethanol). The results of the stability evaluation suggest that the avocado peel extract has the potential to be incorporated in both types of emulsions, acting as an antioxidant and antibacterial agent, proving it to be a viable option to reduce/replace the use of synthetic preservatives. Furthermore, the avocado peel extract proved to be more effective and stable in oil-in-water emulsions. These results highlight the possibility of obtaining sustainable cosmetics, significantly reducing the negative impacts on the environment by the incorporation of extracts sourced from the avocado peel, an interesting source of phenolic compounds, an abundant and low-cost by-product.

Developing Eco-Friendly Skin Care Formulations with Microemulsions of Essential Oil

With the rising public awareness of environmental issues, consumers are increasingly demanding skin care products that create less environmental impact but still provide the same or even greater efficacy. In the skin care arena, microemulsions have been receiving increased attention as the promising delivery technology of skin care actives. Essential oils such as peppermint oil, lavender oil and eucalyptus oil are purported to have excellent antioxidant and antimicrobial properties that could be used as the eco-friendly alternatives for synthetic antioxidants and preservatives in the skin care formulations. This work therefore seeks to develop eco-friendly skin care formulations based on microemulsions of essential oil. Peppermint oil, lavender oil and eucalyptus oil were used as the oil phase to formulate naringin-loaded microemulsions, which demonstrated similar or better antioxidant and antimicrobial properties compared to the synthetic ones. When formulated into gel form, naringin-loaded microemulsion-gel formulations showed enhanced stability and release profile over their unformulated counterpart. Hence, microemulsions of essential oil developed in this work conferred a 4-fold benefits to the skin care formulations: (1) improved release (membrane permeation) of skin care active, (2) improved stability of skin care active, (3) as an eco-friendly alternative to synthetic antioxidant, and (4) a self-preserving system.

Skincare application of medicinal plant polysaccharides - A review

Polysaccharides are macromolecules with important inherent properties and potential biotechnological applications. These complex carbohydrates exist throughout nature, especially in plants, from which they can be obtained with high yields. Different extraction and purification methods may affect the structure of polysaccharides and, due to the close relationship between structure and function, modify their biological activities. One of the possible applications of these polysaccharides is acting on the skin, which is the largest organ in the human body and can be aged by intrinsic and extrinsic processes. Skincare has been gaining worldwide attention not only to prevent diseases but also to promote rejuvenation in aesthetic treatments. In this review, we discussed the polysaccharides obtained from plants and their innovative potential for skin applications, for example as wound-healing, antimicrobial, antioxidant and anti-inflammatory, antitumoral, and anti-aging compounds.

A Potential Valorization Strategy of Wine Industry by-Products and Their Application in Cosmetics-Case Study: Grape Pomace and Grapeseed

Grape pomace and grapeseed are agro-industrial by-products, whose inadequate treatment generates socioeconomic and environmental concerns. Nevertheless, it is possible to valorize them by extracting their bioactive compounds, such as antioxidants (phenolic compounds), vitamin E and fatty acids. The bioactive compounds were extracted using solid-liquid extraction. The yields for phenolic compounds were 18.4 ± 0.4% for grape pomace, and 17.4 ± 0.4%, for grapeseed. For the oil, the yields were 13.3 ± 0.2% and 14.5 ± 0.3% for grape pomace and grapeseed. Antioxidant capacity was assessed by the assay with 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH), and showed that phenolic extract has higher antioxidant capacity than the oils. Grape pomace and grapeseed extracts exhibit, correspondingly, values of 90.8 ± 0.8 and 87.5 ± 0.5 of DPPH inhibition and IC₅₀ of 48.9 ± 0.5 and 55.9 ± 0.7 μg_extract·mL_DPPH⁻¹. The antimicrobial capacity was assessed by the disk diffusion test, and revealed that, phenolic extracts inhibit the growth of Staphylococcus aureus and Staphylococcus epidermidis. The obtained extracts were incorporated in 10 face cream formulations, with slight modifications in quantities of formulation stabilizers. Their stability was studied for 35 days, and this revealed the possibility of incorporating extracts and oils obtained from by-products as antioxidants in cosmetics, and replacing synthetic ones. As a future recommendation, microencapsulation of the extracts should be performed, in order to increase their stability.

Evaluation of Antioxidant, Antibacterial and Enhancement of Antibiotic Action by Punica granatum Leaves Crude Extract and Enriched Fraction against Multidrug-Resistant Bacteria

The aim of this study was to evaluate the phytochemical composition, antioxidant, and antimicrobial potential of crude extract and fractions of Punica granatum leaves. The extract was produced by turbo extraction, after which hexanic, ethyl acetate, and aqueous fractions were obtained by partitioning. The chemical analyses were performed by thin layer chromatography and high-performance liquid chromatography, and the antioxidant activities were assayed by DPPH^. and ABTS^.+ . Minimal inhibitory and bactericidal concentrations (MIC/MBC) were applied to twenty-two bacteria. Most strains susceptible to extract/fractions and resistant to antibiotics were selected, and ampicillin, azithromycin, ciprofloxacin, and gentamicin were associated with the ethyl acetate fraction (EAF) against multidrug-resistant strains in modulatory and checkboard models. The data from chromatographic analyses showed flavonoids and tannins in the extract, as well as the enrichment of EAF in phenols, mainly flavonoids. The flavonoids were connected to the electron transfer activity demonstrated in the DPPH^. and ABTS^.+ assays. Gram-positive strains are more susceptible to EAF. The subinhibitory concentrations of P. granatum enhanced the antimicrobial activity of the agents and reduced the EAF individual MIC, and the combination of EAF and antibiotics demonstrated a synergistic effect. These results present a promising approach for developing a therapy in which antioxidant extracts and fractions can be used in combination with antibiotics.

Astaxanthin Delivery Systems for Skin Application: A Review

Astaxanthin (AST) is a biomolecule known for its powerful antioxidant effect, which is considered of great importance in biochemical research and has great potential for application in cosmetics, as well as food products that are beneficial to human health and medicines. Unfortunately, its poor solubility in water, chemical instability, and low oral bioavailability make its applications in the cosmetic and pharmaceutical field a major challenge for the development of new products. To favor the search for alternatives to enhance and make possible the use of AST in formulations, this article aimed to review the scientific data on its application in delivery systems. The search was made in databases without time restriction, using keywords such as astaxanthin, delivery systems, skin, cosmetic, topical, and dermal. All delivery systems found, such as liposomes, particulate systems, inclusion complexes, emulsions, and films, presented peculiar advantages able to enhance AST properties, among which are stability, antioxidant potential, biological activities, and drug release. This survey showed that further studies are needed for the industrial development of new AST-containing cosmetics and topical formulations.

Nanoparticle platforms for dermal antiaging technologies: Insights in cellular and molecular mechanisms

Aging is a continuous process defined by a progressive functional decline in physiological parameters. Skin, being one of the most vulnerable organs, shows early signs of aging which are predominantly affected by intrinsic factors like hormone, gender, mood, enzymes, and genetic predisposition, and extrinsic factors like exposure to radiation, air pollution, and heat. Visible morphological and anatomical changes associated with skin aging occur due to underlying physiological aberrations governed by numerous complex interactions at cellular and subcellular levels. Nanoparticles are perceived as a powerful tool in the cosmeceutical industry both for augmenting the efficacy of existing agents and as a novel standalone therapy. Both organic and inorganic nanoparticles have been extensively investigated in antiaging applications. The use of nanoparticles helps to enhance the activity of antiaging molecules by selectively targeting cellular and molecular pathways. On the other hand, the nanoparticle platforms also gained increasing popularity as the skin protectant against extrinsic factors such as UV radiation and pollutants. This review comprehensively discusses skin aging and its mechanism by highlighting the impact on cellular, subcellular, and epigenetic elements. Importantly, the review elaborates on the examples of organic and inorganic nanoparticle-based formulations developed for antiaging application and provides mechanistic insights on how they modulate the mechanisms of skin aging. The clinical progress of nanoparticle antiaging technologies and factors that impact clinical translation are also explored. This article is categorized under: Nanotechnology Approaches to Biology > Nanoscale Systems in Biology Therapeutic Approaches and Drug Discovery > Emerging Technologies.

Tandem mass spectrometry of aqueous extract from Ficus dubia sap and its cell-based assessments for use as a skin antioxidant

Since 2006, Ficus dubia has been reported as a new Ficus species in Thailand. As per our recent report, the red-brown aqueous extract of F. dubia sap (FDS) has been determined to strongly exhibit in vitro anti-radicals. However, the phytochemicals in the FDS extract related to health-promoting antioxidation have not been explored. Thus, in this study, we aimed to investigate the chemical components of the F. dubia sap extract by liquid chromatography-electrospray ionization quadrupole time-of-flight mass spectrometry (LC-ESI-MS/QTOF-MS) and its potential use in cosmetics in terms of cellular antioxidation on keratinocytes (HaCaT), phototoxicity, and irritation on 3D skin cell models following standard tests suggested by the Organization for Economic Cooperation and Development (OECD). It was found that the sap extract was composed of quinic acid and caffeoyl derivatives (e.g., syringoylquinic acid, 3-O-caffeoylquinic acid, 4-O-caffeoylquinic acid, and dimeric forms of caffeoylquinic acids). The extract has significantly exhibited antioxidant activity against H2O2-induced oxidative stress in HaCaT cells. The cellular antioxidative effect of the FDS extract was remarkably dependent on the presence of 3- and 4-O-caffeoylquinic acid in the extract. Furthermore, the FDS extract showed negative results on skin phototoxicity and irritation. Overall, the results reveal that the FDS extract could be developed as a new antioxidant candidate for a skin healthcare product.

The emerging role of nanotechnology in skincare

The role of cosmetic products is rapidly evolving in our society, with their use increasingly seen as an essential contribution to personal wellness. This suggests the necessity of a detailed elucidation of the use of nanoparticles (NPs) in cosmetics. The aim of the present work is to offer a critical and comprehensive review discussing the impact of exploiting nanomaterials in advanced cosmetic formulations, emphasizing the beneficial effects of their extensive use in next-generation products despite a persisting prejudice around the application of nanotechnology in cosmetics. The discussion here includes an interpretation of the data underlying generic information reported on the product labels of formulations already available in the marketplace, information that often lacks details identifying specific components of the product, especially when nanomaterials are employed. The emphasis of this review is mainly focused on skincare because it is believed to be the cosmetics market sector in which the impact of nanotechnology is being seen most significantly. To date, nanotechnology has been demonstrated to improve the performance of cosmetics in a number of different ways: 1) increasing both the entrapment efficiency and dermal penetration of the active ingredient, 2) controlling drug release, 3) enhancing physical stability, 4) improving moisturizing power, and 5) providing better UV protection. Specific attention is paid to the effect of nanoparticles contained in semisolid formulations on skin penetration issues. In light of the emerging concerns about nanoparticle toxicity, an entire section has been devoted to listing detailed examples of nanocosmetic products for which safety has been investigated.

Multilobed Magnetic Liposomes Enable Remotely Controlled Collection, Transport, and Delivery of Membrane-Soluble Cargos to Vesicles and Cells

Lipid bilayers are the basic structural components of all living systems, forming the membranes of cells, sub-cellular organelles, and extracellular vesicles. A class of man-made lipidic vesicles called multilobed magnetic liposomes (MMLs) is reported in this work; these MMLs possess a previously unattained combination of features owing to their unique multilobe structure and composition. MMLs consist of a central cluster of lipid-coated magnetic iron oxide nanoparticles that lend them a magnetophoretic velocity comparable to the most efficient living microswimmers. Multiple liposome-like lobes protrude from the central region; these can incorporate both water-soluble and lipid-soluble molecular payloads at high carrying capacity and exchange the incorporated substances with the membranes of both artificial and live cells by the contact diffusion mechanism. The size of MMLs is controllable in the range of 200-800 nm. Their functionality is demonstrated by completing a model mission where MMLs are remotely controlled to collect, transport, and deliver a cargo to live cells.

Agarose Stearate-Carbomer940 as Stabilizer and Rheology Modifier for Surfactant-Free Cosmetic Formulations

Some commonly used surfactants in cosmetic products raise concerns due to their skin-irritating effects and environmental contamination. Multifunctional, high-performance polymers are good alternatives to overcome these problems. In this study, agarose stearate (AS) with emulsifying, thickening, and gel properties was synthesized. Surfactant-free cosmetic formulations were successfully prepared from AS and carbomer₉₄₀ (CBM₉₄₀) mixed systems. The correlation of rheological parameter with skin feeling was determined to study the usability of the mixed systems in cosmetics. Based on rheological analysis, the surfactant-free cosmetic cream (SFC) stabilized by AS-carbomer₉₄₀ showed shear-thinning behavior and strongly synergistic action. The SFC exhibited a gel-like behavior and had rheological properties similar to commercial cosmetic creams. Scanning electron microscope images proved that the AS-CBM₉₄₀ network played an important role in SFC’s stability. Oil content could reinforce the elastic characteristics of the AS-CBM₉₄₀ matrix. The SFCs showed a good appearance and sensation during and after rubbing into skin. The knowledge gained from this study may be useful for designing surfactant-free cosmetic cream with rheological properties that can be tailored for particular commercial cosmetic applications. They may also be useful for producing medicine products with highly viscous or gel-like textures, such as some ointments and wound dressings.

Ethosomes as Nanocarriers for the Development of Skin Delivery Formulations

The use of nanotechnology has been extensively explored for developing efficient drug delivery systems towards topical and transdermal applications. Ethosomes constitute a vesicular nanocarrier containing a relatively high concentration of ethanol (20-45%). Ethanol is a well-known permeation enhancer, which confers ethosomes unique features, including high elasticity and deformability, allowing them to penetrate deeply across the skin and enhance drug permeation and deposition. The improved composition of ethosomes offer, thereby, significant advantages in the delivery of therapeutic agents over particularly the conventional liposomes regarding different pathologies, including acne, psoriasis, alopecia, skin infections, hormonal deficiencies, among others. This review provides a comprehensive overview of the ethosomal system and an assessment of its potential as an efficient nanocarrier towards the skin delivery of active ingredients. Special attention is given to the composition of ethosomes and the mechanism of skin permeation, as well as their potential applications in different pathologies, particularly skin pathologies (acne, psoriasis, atopic dermatitis, skin cancer and skin infections). Some examples of ethosome-based formulations for the management of skin disorders are also highlighted. Besides the need for further studies, particularly in humans, ethosomal-based formulations hold great promise in the skin delivery of active ingredients, which increasingly asserts oneself as a viable alternative to the oral route.

Nanotechnology in cosmetics pros and cons

The field of nanotechnology is being greatly explored by cosmetic industries in order to improve the efficacy of cosmetic products. The increased use of nanomaterials in the field of cosmetics can have two sides as health-related benefits and detrimental effects. This review mainly seeks the pros and cons of the use of nanomaterials in cosmetics along with some examples of nanomaterials that are widely used in cosmetic industries along with different types of nanotechnology-based cosmetic products. The benefits of nanomaterials in cosmetic formulations are huge. Moreover the study regarding the toxic effects on the health also equally matters. This review gives a brief outline of the advantages as well as disadvantages of nanotechnology in cosmetics.

Sunscreens Containing Cyclodextrin Inclusion Complexes for Enhanced Efficiency: A Strategy for Skin Cancer Prevention

Unprotected exposure of skin to solar ultraviolet radiation (UVR) may damage the DNA of skin cells and can lead to skin cancer. Sunscreens are topical formulations used to protect skin against UVR. The active ingredients of sunscreens are UV filters that absorb, scatter, and/or reflect UVR. Preventing the formation of free radicals and repairing DNA damages, natural antioxidants are also added to sunscreens as a second fold of protection against UVR. Antioxidants can help stabilise these formulations during the manufacturing process and upon application on skin. However, UV filters and antioxidants are both susceptible to degradation upon exposure to sunlight and oxygen. Additionally, due to their poor water solubility, natural antioxidants are challenging to formulate and exhibit limited penetration and bioavailability in the site of action (i.e., deeper skin layers). Cyclodextrins (CDs) are cyclic oligosaccharides that are capable of forming inclusion complexes with poorly soluble drugs, such as antioxidants. In this review, we discuss the use of CDs inclusion complexes to enhance the aqueous solubility of antioxidants and chemical UV filters and provide a protective shield against degradative factors. The role of CDs in providing a controlled drug release profile from sunscreens is also discussed. Finally, incorporating CDs inclusion complexes into sunscreens has the potential to increase their efficiency and hence improve their skin cancer prevention.

Low Molecular Weight Oligosaccharide from Panax ginseng C.A. Meyer against UV-Mediated Apoptosis and Inhibits Tyrosinase Activity In Vitro and In Vivo

To find new anti-UV and whitening agents, 21 fractions isolated from three preparations of ginseng (white, red, and black ginseng) were screened, and their antioxidant effects on AAPH- or H₂O₂-induced damage were investigated. Furthermore, the protective effect against UV-mediated apoptosis and the tyrosinase inhibitory activity of the targeted fractions were evaluated in vitro and in a zebrafish model. Among all fractions, F10 from white ginseng was selected as having the strongest anti-UV and antimelanogenesis activities. This fraction exhibited excellent inhibitory effects on the pigmentation of zebrafish, which may be due to its potential tyrosinase inhibitory activity. Additionally, the chemical composition of F10 was evaluated by UPLC-MS and NMR instruments. The results indicated that F10 had a carbohydrate content of more than 76%, and the weight-average molecular weight was approximately 239 Da. Disaccharide sucrose was the main active compound in F10. These results suggest that F10 could be used as an ingredient for whitening cosmetics and regarded as an anti-UV filter in the future.

A review of cosmetic skin delivery

BACKGROUND

Cosmetic Skin Delivery has a very important impact on the action of cosmetics. More and more cosmetic manufacturers are focusing on cosmetic delivery. Meanwhile, it also brings safety issues and the customization of national laws and regulations.

OBJECTIVES

This paper reviews the theoretical knowledge about cosmetic skin delivery and evaluation methods.

METHODS

An extensive literature search was conducted using PubMed, Web of Science, and other databases for articles on transdermal/skin delivery in cosmetics from 1985 to 2020.

RESULTS

The importance of skin delivery in cosmetics is outlined. The structure of the skin and the skin barrier, including delivery pathways available to cosmetic molecules in three modalities are introduced. The laws and regulations of various countries on nanomaterials for cosmetics are listed. The in vitro skin absorption test methods for cosmetics are briefly reviewed. Furthermore, the prospect of future skin penetration methods for cosmetics is presented.

CONCLUSIONS

Currently, various methods to enhance and evaluate cosmetic delivery through skin are available. However, there are no unified domestic and international laws and regulations about evaluation of transdermal delivery. This article provides a new perspective on the development of novel permeation enhancement technologies.

Advancements in liposome technology: Preparation techniques and applications in food, functional foods, and bioactive delivery: A review

Liposomes play a significant role in encapsulation of various bioactive compounds (BACs), including functional food ingredients to improve the stability of core. This technology can be used for promoting an effective application in functional food and nutraceuticals. Incorporation of traditional and emerging methods for the developments of liposome for loading BACs resulted in viable and stable liposome formulations for industrial applications. Thus, the advance technologies such as supercritical fluidic methods, microfluidization, ultrasonication with traditional methods are revisited. Liposomes loaded with plant and animal BACs have been introduced for functional food and nutraceutical applications. In general, application of liposome systems improves stability, delivery, and bioavailability of BACs in functional food systems and nutraceuticals. This review covers the current techniques and methodologies developed and practiced in liposomal preparation and application in functional foods.

Loading and Release of Charged and Neutral Fluorescent Dyes into and from Mesoporous Materials: A Key Role for Sensing Applications

The aim of this study is to determine the efficiency of loading and release of several zwitterionic, neutral, anionic and cationic dyes into/from mesoporous nanoparticles to find the optimum loading and release conditions for their application in detection protocols. The loading is carried out for MCM-41 type silica supports suspended in phosphate-buffered saline (PBS) buffer (pH 7.4) or in acetonitrile, involving the dyes (rhodamine B chloride, rhodamine 101 chloride, rhodamine 101 perchlorate, rhodamine 101 inner salt, meso-(4-hydroxyphenyl)-boron–dipyrromethene (BODIPY), sulforhodamine B sodium salt and fluorescein 27). As a general trend, rhodamine-based dyes are loaded with higher efficiency, when compared with BODIPY and fluorescein dyes. Between the rhodamine-based dyes, their charge and the solvent in which the loading process is carried out play important roles for the amount of cargo that can be loaded into the materials. The delivery experiments carried out in PBS buffer at pH 7.4 reveal for all the materials that anionic dyes are more efficiently released compared to their neutral or cationic counterparts. The overall best performance is achieved with the negatively charged sulforhodamine B dye in acetonitrile. This material also shows a high delivery degree in PBS buffer.

Comparison of Maceration and Ultrasonication for Green Extraction of Phenolic Acids from Echinacea purpurea Aerial Parts

Echinacea purpurea is used in herbal medicinal products for the prevention and treatment of the common cold, as well as for skin disorders and minor wounds. In this study, the efficiency of traditional maceration using water and ethanol was compared with the maceration using mixtures of water and glycerol, a non-toxic, biodegradable solvent from renewable sources. It was found that the glycerol-water mixtures were as effective as ethanol/water mixtures for the extraction of caffeic acid derivatives. All the prepared extracts demonstrated notable antiradical properties. Furthermore, an efficient ultrasound-assisted extraction using glycerol-water mixtures was developed using six independent variables. Their levels needed for the maximum extraction of caffeic acid derivatives were as follows: glycerol 90% (m/m), temperature 70 °C, ultrasound power 72 W, time 40 min, and ascorbic acid 0 mg/mL. Under the optimized conditions, ultrasound-assisted extraction was superior to maceration. It achieved significantly higher yields of phenolic acids in shorter extraction time. The presence of zinc in plant material may contribute to the beneficial effects of E. purpurea preparations. Since glycerol is a non-toxic solvent with humectant properties, the prepared extracts can be directly used for the preparation of cosmetics or oral pharmaceutical formulations without the need for solvent removal.

Bioactive (Co)oligoesters as Potential Delivery Systems of p-Anisic Acid for Cosmetic Purposes

This article reports the studies on bioactive (co)oligoesters towards their use as controlled delivery systems of p-anisic acid. The objects of the study were oligo[3-hydroxy-3-(4-methoxybenzoyloxymethyl)propionate], (p-AA-CH₂-HP)_n oligoester, and oligo[(3-hydroxy-3-(4-methoxybenzoyloxymethyl)propionate)-co-(3-hydroxybutyrate)] [(p-AA-CH₂-HP)_x-co-(HB)_y (co)oligoesters containing p-anisic acid moiety (p-AA, as the bioactive end and side groups) connected to the polymer backbone through the susceptible to hydrolysis ester bonds. A thorough insight into the hydrolysis process of the bioactive (co)oligoesters studied has allowed us to determine the release profile of p-AA as well as to identify polymer carrier degradation products. The p-AA release profiles determined on the basis of high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) measurements showed that the release of the bioactive compound from the developed (co)oligoester systems was regular and no burst effect occurred. Biological studies demonstrated that studied (homo)- and (co)oligoesters were well tolerated by HaCaT cells because none of them showed notable cytotoxicity. They promoted keratinocyte growth at moderate concentrations. Bioactive (co)oligoesters containing p-anisic acid moiety had somewhat decreased cell proliferation at the highest concentration (100 µg/mL). The important practical inference of the current study is that the (co)oligoesters developed have a relatively large load of the biologically active substance (p-AA) per polymer macromolecule, which unlocks their potential application in the cosmetic industry.