Trends and challenges in phytotherapy and phytocosmetics for skin aging

Physicochemical properties and cosmetic benefits of polysaccharide fractions from Zizania latifolia precipitated by different ethanol concentrations

Four polysaccharide fractions (designated as ZLPF-60, ZLPF-70, ZLPF-80, and ZLPF-90), extracted from the swollen culms of Zizania latifolia, were obtained by precipitation with varying ethanol concentrations (60, 70, 80, and 90 %, v/v). Their physicochemical properties and in vitro cosmetic benefits, including antioxidant activity, moisture absorption capacity, moisturizing efficacy, and whitening effect, were investigated. The results demonstrated that, with increasing ethanol concentration, the combined content of uronic acids and sulfates, zeta potential, and average molecular weight (Mw) decreased, while the particle size initially increased and then decreased. These fractions were identified as heteropolysaccharides composed of rhamnose, arabinose, galactose, glucose, xylose, mannose, galacturonic acid, and glucuronic acid in different proportions. FT-IR analysis confirmed these fractions as naturally sulfate-containing polysaccharides, and SEM revealed their diverse surface morphologies. Moreover, these fractions exhibited scavenging activities against DPPH and hydroxyl radicals, as well as ferric ion-reducing power. Among them, ZLPF-70 showed the strongest activity, followed by ZLPF-60. The moisture absorption properties of these fractions were superior to sodium alginate, and their moisturizing capabilities surpassed glycerol, particularly for ZLPF-60 and ZLPF-70. Notably, ZLPF-60 outperformed ZLPF-70 in inhibiting tyrosinase, especially tyrosinase diphenolase, achieving an inhibitory effect comparable to that of phenylethyl resorcinol. Both ZLPF-60 and ZLPF-70 demonstrated distinct cosmetic benefits. Furthermore, correlation analysis revealed that the negative charge density, Mw, and the high abundance of arabinose and galactose were the primary contributors to the observed cosmetic benefits.

Development and efficacy of arbutin-loaded agarose hydrogel for antioxidant and depigmentation applications

Skin whitening and depigmentation are key strategies in skincare, representing a major global market. However, prolonged use of high concentrations of chemicals in skincare products can lead to skin disorders and premature aging. Biopolymer-based hydrogels offer a promising alternative by enabling sustained transdermal delivery of bioactive molecules while minimizing adverse effects. This study aimed to develop a novel bioactive hydrogel using thermosensitive, low-temperature-melting agarose (AGE) and the non-toxic tyrosinase inhibitor arbutin (ABN). Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy (FTIR) analysis confirmed the successful incorporation of ABN into the AGE hydrogel, while X-ray diffraction (XRD) analysis revealed the formation of new amorphous peaks, indicating composite hydrogel formation. Field emission scanning electron microscope (FE-SEM) imaging showed that freeze-dried AGE-ABN exhibited a smaller, more longitudinal porous structure compared to AGE alone. ABN release was dependent on its initial concentration, with higher release rates correlating with increased antioxidant activity. The 10-minute extract of freeze-dried AGE-ABN (0.1 %) hydrogel demonstrated DPPH (39.16 ± 0.72 %), FRAP (78.37 ± 2.24 %), and ABTS (92.40 ± 0.02 %) radical scavenging activities. Additionally, AGE-ABN (0.1 %) exhibited significant tyrosinase inhibition (27.90 ± 0.02 %), highlighting its potential for depigmentation. Importantly, the hydrogel promoted a human keratinocyte (HaCaT) cell growth without inducing cytotoxicity.

Skin Protection Effects of Lactobacillus paragasseri HN910 Lysate and the Role of Alanine

Skin aging is influenced by structural alterations, oxidative stress, inflammation, and microbiome changes, and a comprehensive approach to addressing these factors may be effective for mitigating skin aging. This study evaluates the multifaceted anti-aging effects of heat-killed (HK-HN910) and lysed (LS-HN910) forms of Lactobacillus paragasseri HN910. Protective effects on cell viability, cell permeability, nitric oxide (NO) production, and skin anti-aging gene expression for both HK-HN910 and LS-HN910 were observed. Both forms significantly enhanced tight junction (TJ) protein zonula occludens- 1 (ZO- 1) and antioxidant enzyme glutathione peroxidase (GPx) gene expression, while significantly downregulating that of senescence-associated secretory phenotype pro-inflammatory cytokines interleukin (IL)- 1α, IL- 1β, IL- 6, IL- 8, and tumor necrosis factor-alpha (TNFα). LS-HN910 showed significantly greater upregulation of ZO- 1 and GPx and greater downregulation of IL- 1β and TNFα expression compared to HK-HN910. Cell wall component D-alanine (D-Ala) was released in higher amounts in LS-HN910 than in HK-HN910 and demonstrated anti-aging effects. D-Ala upregulated gene expression of skin barrier ZO- 1, claudin- 1 (Cla- 1), occludin (OCC), filaggrin (FLG), and sphingomyelin phosphodiesterase 2 (SMPD2) and antioxidant enzymes superoxide dismutase (SOD), catalase (CAT), and GPx, while downregulating IL- 1α, IL- 1β, IL- 6, IL- 8, and TNFα. LS-HN910 treatment clinically revealed improvements in anti-aging parameters, including transepidermal water loss, skin water contents, sebum levels, dermal density, eye wrinkle index, skin pH, brightness, and microbiota composition, with a significant increase in Rhodococcus abundance. These findings indicate that LS-HN910, containing released D-Ala, is a promising cosmeceutical for preventing skin aging by enhancing the skin barrier, promoting oxidative defense, modulating inflammatory responses, and influencing skin microbiota.

Chemical Profile and Promising Applications of Cucurbita pepo L. Flowers

Although edible flowers have been historically principally used due to their visual appeal and smell, the world is discovering their value as innovative and natural sources of bioactive compounds. Cucurbita pepo L. (CpL), a plant from the Cucurbitaceae family, is widely cultivated for its edible fruits and flowers, which are rich in polyphenols and carotenoids-compounds known for their potent antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. Despite their potential, the use of CpL flowers for skin-related applications remains underexplored. This study aimed to comprehensively analyze CpL flower extract (CpLfe), focusing on its polyphenolic and carotenoid content using, for the first time, advanced UHPLC-Q-Orbitrap HRMS and HPLC-DAD analysis. CpLfe highlighted remarkable antioxidant activity according to the DPPH, ABTS, and FRAP tests. CpLfe showed significantly reduced intracellular ROS in HaCaT (23%, p < 0.05) and protected against UVB-induced damage by lowering MMP-1 expression. CpLfe also upregulated genes crucial for skin hydration (AQP3) and barrier function (CerS2, CerS4, and CerS6). A placebo-controlled, randomized clinical trial further validated CpLfe efficacy, demonstrating marked improvements in moisture retention, wrinkle reduction, and collagen production in women aged 35-55. These findings suggested that CpL flowers could be a source of bioactive compounds recovered from edible flowers able to improve the major skin aging and photoaging features.

Potential of Bioactive Protein and Protein Hydrolysate from Apis mellifera Larvae as Cosmeceutical Active Ingredients for Anti-Skin Aging

This study aimed to extract bioactive proteins and protein hydrolysates from Apis mellifera larvae and assess their potential application in cosmetics as well as their irritation properties. The larvae were defatted and extracted using various mediums, including DI water, along with 0.5 M aqueous solutions of sodium hydroxide, ascorbic acid, citric acid, and hydrochloric acid. Subsequently, the crude proteins were hydrolyzed using the Alcalase® enzyme. All extracts underwent testing for antioxidant activities via the 2,2'-azino-bis (3-ethylbenzothiazoline-6-sulfonic acid) and Griess assays. Anti-aging properties were evaluated in terms of anti-collagenase and anti-hyaluronidase effects. Irritation potential was assessed using the hen's egg chorioallantoic membrane (HET-CAM) test. The results revealed that the sodium hydroxide extraction showed promising outcomes in terms of yield, protein content, and effectiveness in inhibiting hyaluronidase, with the highest inhibition at 78.1 ± 1.5%, comparable to that of oleanolic acid. Conversely, crude protein extracted with ascorbic acid and its hydrolysate showed notable antioxidant and collagenase-inhibitory activities. Remarkably, their anti-collagenase effects were comparable to those of ascorbic acid and lysine. Additionally, it demonstrated safety upon testing with the CAM. In conclusion, the findings provided valuable insights into the utilization of A. mellifera larval proteins as active ingredients with a wide range of cosmeceutical applications, particularly due to their antioxidant, anti-aging, and low irritation properties, which hold significant promise for anti-skin wrinkles.

Cubeb (Piper cubeba L.): nutritional value, phytochemical profiling and dermacosmeceutical properties

Introduction

Cubeb, Piper cubeba L., has been used for centuries in traditional medicine and culinary practices, with a wide range of biological and pharmacological activities.

Objective

Herein, we determined the phytochemical profile, mineral, fatty acids, and amino acid contents of P. cubeba berries and assessed the dermacosmeceutical properties of their water extract and essential oil (EO). These included assessing their antioxidant and antibacterial activities as well as their in vitro inhibitory activities against tyrosinase and elastase enzymes. In addition, molecular docking and molecular dynamics studies were performed on the major identified compounds of the EO.

Results and discussion

A total of forty-three compounds belonging to organic acids, phenolic acids and flavonoids were found in the water extract, while 36 volatile compounds were identified in the EO with Z-isoeugenol, dihydroeugenol, β-pinene, E-caryophyllene, and 1,8-cineole as major constituents. The berries were found to be rich in sodium and iron, have moderate zinc content along with low contents of total nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium. Amino acid analysis revealed a considerable concentration of isoleucine and phenylalanine, whereas 11,14,17-eicosatrienoic acid and linoleic acid were identified as the major fatty acids. In the DPPH and FRAP assays, the water extract elicited considerable antioxidant activity compared to the reference compounds. Enzyme inhibitory assays revealed that the EO had a potential to inhibit tyrosinase and elastase enzymes with IC50 values of 340.56 and 86.04 μg/mL, respectively. The water extract and EO completely inhibited the bacterial growth at MIC of 50 mg/mL and 20%, respectively. At sub-MIC concentrations, the extract and the EO substantially reduced the biofilm formation by up to 26.63 and 77.77%, respectively, as well as the swimming and swarming motilities in a dose-dependent manner. Molecular docking and molecular dynamics showed that the five main components of P. cubeba EO could be the major contributors to the elastase and tyrosinase inhibitory effect.

Conclusion

This study emphasizes the promising potential of P. cubeba as a valuable source of natural compounds that can be utilized for the development of innovative pharmaceuticals, dietary supplements, and dermacosmeceutical agents.

Diet and skin health: The good and the bad

The skin protects humans from pathogens, ultraviolet light, chemicals, mechanical, thermal, and physical injuries as well as hazardous substances. Other important roles of the skin include the regulation of several important physiological processes of the body, sensing stimuli, synthesis of vitamin D, and immune surveillance. However, aging, diseases and environmental conditions significantly change the skin's behavior and functioning. The treatment and prevention strategies for various skin diseases especially photoaging usually include topical treatment with medical cosmetology, active ingredients and other physical means of photoprotection. In recent times, however, there is an increasing consciousness about the role of diet and nutrition in skin health with certain dietary components emerging as an adequate alternative approach to alleviate and prevent both endogenous and exogenous aging symptoms. Therefore, this narrative review uniquely discusses the basic structure of the skin and also addresses common dermatological signs of damaged skin, the impacts of unhealthy diet habits on the skin, and the beneficial effects of some healthy diet habits on skin health. The information and data were collated from various literature databases and resources such as Science Direct, PubMed, Wiley, Springer, Taylor and Francis, Inflibnet, Scopus, Google, and Google Scholar using relevant keywords Medical Subject Headings (MeSH). In conclusion, diet and nutrition play essential roles in the optimum functioning of the human body, including the skin. Thus, certain diet habits such as less water intake, high-fat diet, refined sugar, and certain food additives are unhealthy and harmful to the skin while alternative healthy diet habits such as adequate water intake; consumption of antioxidants and polyphenolic-rich fruits, vegetables, nuts, and legumes; a low glycemic index diet; probiotics; and phytoestrogens should be adopted to enhance skin health.

Phytovesicular Nanoconstructs for Advanced Delivery of Medicinal Metabolites: An In-Depth Review

Phytochemicals, the bioactive compounds in plants, possess therapeutic benefits, such as antimicrobial, antioxidant, and pharmacological activities. However, their clinical use is often hindered by poor bioavailability and stability. Phytosome technology enhances the absorption and efficacy of these compounds by integrating vesicular systems like liposomes, niosomes, transfersomes, and ethosomes. Phytosomes offer diverse biological benefits, including cardiovascular protection through improved endothelial function and oxidative stress reduction. They enhance cognitive function and protect against neurodegenerative diseases in the nervous system, aid digestion and reduce inflammation in the gastrointestinal system, and provide hepatoprotective effects by enhancing liver detoxification and protection against toxins. In the genitourinary system, phytosomes improve renal function and exhibit anti-inflammatory properties. They also modulate the immune system by enhancing immune responses and reducing inflammation and oxidative stress. Additionally, phytosomes promote skin health by protecting against UV radiation and improving hydration and elasticity. Recent patented phytosome technologies have led to innovative formulations that improve the stability, bioavailability, and therapeutic efficacy of phytochemicals, although commercialization challenges like manufacturing scalability and regulatory hurdles remain. Secondary metabolites from natural products are classified into primary and secondary metabolites, with a significant focus on terpenoids, phenolic compounds, and nitrogen-containing compounds. These metabolites have notable biological activities: antimicrobial, antioxidant, antibiotic, antiviral, anti-inflammatory, and anticancer effects. In summary, this review amalgamates the latest advancements in phytosome technology and secondary metabolite research, presenting a holistic view of their potential to advance therapeutic interventions and contribute to the ever-evolving landscape of natural product-based medicine.

Development of Spray Dried Spirulina Protein-Berry Pomace Polyphenol Particles to Attenuate Pollution-Induced Skin Damage: A Convergent Food-Beauty Approach

Spray drying (SD) microencapsulation of phytochemicals from berry pomaces with Spirulina protein (SP) was incorporated into a cosmeceutical topical formulation to mitigate pollution skin damage. Initially, microparticles produced with SP and polyphenols recovered from fruit pomaces (elderberry SP-EB and muscadine grape SP-MG) were characterized regarding physicochemical and phytochemical content (polyphenol load, carotenoid and phycocyanin contents and antioxidant activity). SP had low total phenolic content (7.43 ± 0.23 mg GAE/g DW), but complexation with elderberry or muscadine grape pomaces polyphenols led to a substantial increase (27.63 ± 1.15 SP-EB and 111.0 ± 2.6 mg GAE/g DW SP-MG). SP-MG particles had higher anthocyanin (26.87 ± 1.25 mg/g) and proanthocyanidin (9.02 ± 0.74 mg/g) contents compared to SP-EB particles. SP-MG were prioritized to prepare a topical gel to attenuate skin oxinflammatory markers and prevent skin barrier disruption using ex vivo human biopsies exposed to diesel engine exhaust (DEE). The immunofluorescence results showed increased oxidative protein damage and inflammation associated with impaired skin barrier function after DEE exposure while topical application of gel formulated with SP-MG mitigated these effects. Overall, this study demonstrated that protein-polyphenol complexation is a synergistic strategy to stabilize and deliver residual fruit/algae phytoactives into cosmeceutical products for skin health applications.

Characterization and anti-aging effects of Opuntia ficus-indica (L.) Miller extracts in a D-galactose-induced skin aging model

Opuntia ficus-indica (L.) Miller (OFI), belonging to the family Cactaceae, is widely cultivated not only for its delicious fruits but also for its health-promoting effects, which enhance the role of OFI as a potential functional food. In this study, the in vitro collagenase and elastase enzyme inhibitory effects of extracts from different parts of OFI were evaluated. The most promising extracts were formulated as creams at two concentrations (3 and 5%) to investigate their effects on a D-galactose (D-gal)-induced skin-aging mouse model. The ethanolic extracts of the peel and cladodes exhibited the highest enzyme inhibitory effects. Cream made from the extract of OFI peel (OP) (5%) and cream from OFI cladodes extract (OC) (5%) significantly decreased the macroscopic aging of skin scores. Only a higher concentration (5%) of OC showed the normalization of superoxide dismutase (SOD) and malondialdehyde (MDA) skin levels and achieved significant improvements as compared to the vitamin E group. Both OC and OP (5%) showed complete restoration of the normal skin structure and nearly normal collagen fibres upon histopathological examination. The Ultra-Performance Liquid Chromatography High Resolution Mass Spectrometry (UHPLC-ESI-TOF-MS) metabolite profiles revealed the presence of organic acids, phenolic acids, flavonoids, betalains, and fatty acids. Flavonoids were the predominant phytochemical class (23 and 22 compounds), followed by phenolic acids (14 and 17 compounds) in the ethanolic extracts from the peel and cladodes, respectively. The anti-skin-aging effects could be attributed to the synergism of different phytochemicals in both extracts. From these findings, the OFI peel and cladodes as agro-waste products are good candidates for anti-skin-aging phytocosmetics.

Antibacterial Aloe vera Based Biocompatible Hydrogel for Use in Dermatological Applications

The present research aims to describe a new methodology to obtain biocompatible hydrogels based on Aloe vera used for wound healing applications. The properties of two hydrogels (differing in Aloe vera concentration, AV5 and AV10) prepared by an all-green synthesis method from raw, natural, renewable and bioavailable materials such as salicylic acid, allantoin and xanthan gum were investigated. The morphology of the Aloe vera based hydrogel biomaterials was studied by SEM analysis. The rheological properties of the hydrogels, as well as their cell viability, biocompatibility and cytotoxicity, were determined. The antibacterial activity of Aloe vera based hydrogels was evaluated both on Gram-positive, Staphylococcus aureus and on Gram-negative, Pseudomonas aeruginosa strains. The obtained novel green Aloe vera based hydrogels showed good antibacterial properties. In vitro scratch assay demonstrated the capacity of both AV5 and AV10 hydrogels to accelerate cell proliferation and migration and induce closure of a wounded area. A corroboration of all morphological, rheological, cytocompatibility and cell viability results indicates that this Aloe vera based hydrogel may be suitable for wound healing applications.