HS-GC-MS method for the analysis of fragrance allergens in complex cosmetic matrices

Analysis of preservatives and fragrances in topical medical devices: The need for more stringent regulation

INTRODUCTION

Medical devices (MDs) have a long history of use, and come with regulatory frameworks to ensure user safety. Although topically applied MDs in the form of gels and creams might be used on damaged skin, their composition is often similar to that of cosmetic products applicable to intact skin, especially in terms of preservatives and fragrances. However, unlike cosmetics, these products are not subject to compound-specific restrictions when used in MDs.

OBJECTIVE

This study aimed to identify and quantify preservatives and fragrances in topically applied MDs and assess their safety towards the Cosmetic Regulation (EC) 1223/2009.

METHOD

Sixty-nine MDs available on the EU market were subjected to previously validated liquid chromatography tandem mass spectrometry (LC-MS/MS) and gas chromatography-mass spectrometry (GC-MS) methods to identify and quantify occurring preservatives and fragrances.

RESULTS

Findings revealed that 32% of the examined MDs did not provide comprehensive ingredient lists, leaving users uninformed about potential risks associated with product use. Furthermore, 30% of these MDs would not meet safety standards for cosmetic products and, most significantly, 13% of the analysed samples contained ingredients that are prohibited in leave-on cosmetics.

CONCLUSION

Results highlight the pressing demand for more stringent requirements regarding the labelling and composition of MDs to enhance patient safety. Improved regulation and transparency can mitigate potential risks associated with the use of topically applied MDs.

Experimental study for inorganic and organic profiling of toy makeup products: Estimating the potential threat to child health

Inorganic elements are added to toys as impurities to give desired stability, brightness, flexibility, and color; however, these elements may cause numerous health issues after acute or chronic exposure. In this study, the inorganic profile of 14 elements (Al, As, Ba, Cd, Co, Cr, Cu, Hg, Mn, Ni, Se, Sb, Pb, and Zn) in 63 toy makeup products was identified by inductively coupled plasma-mass spectrometry after microwave acid digestion method. Additionally, organic allergen fragrance was investigated by gas chromatography-mass spectrometry. The systemic exposure dosage (SED), margin of safety (MoS), lifetime cancer risk (LCR), hazard quotient (HQ), and hazard indices were used to assess the safety evaluation. Then, 57 out of 63 samples (90.48%) exceeded the limits at least for one toxic element with descending order Ni > Cr > Co > Pb > Sb > Cd > As > Hg. The SED values were compared with tolerable daily intake values and remarkably differences were found for Al and Pb. The MoS values for 57.15% of samples exceeded the limit value for Al, As, Cd, Co, Hg, Mn, Sb, and Zn elements. The LCR values were observed at 100% (n = 63), 79.37% (n = 50), 85.71% (n = 54), 77.78% (n = 49), and 18.87% (n = 10) for Cr, Ni, As, Pb, and Cd, respectively. Also, the skin sensitization risks were obtained for Cr and Ni at 26.980% (n = 17) and 9.52% (n = 6), respectively. The HQ values for 80% of samples were found to be ≥ 1 at least for one parameter. The investigation of fragrance allergens in samples did not show any significant ingredients. As a result, toy makeup products marketed in local stores were found to be predominantly unsafe. Children should be protected from harmful chemicals by regular monitoring and strict measures.

Multi-class analysis of 100 drug residues in cosmetics using high-performance liquid chromatography-quadrupole time-of-flight high-resolution mass spectrometry

Cosmetics are an important aspect of the lives of many people. With an increasing demand for cosmetics, consumers pay more attention to their efficacy and composition. To improve their efficacy, prohibited substances, such as hormones, glucocorticoids, antibiotics, antifungals and antihistamines, may be added to cosmetics. We developed a rapid method for the multi-class analysis of drug residues in toner and lotion cosmetic samples using high-performance liquid chromatography coupled with quadrupole time-of-flight high-resolution mass spectrometry (HPLC-Q-TOF-HRMS). The primary variables in the extraction and purification steps were studied to minimize the interference of the sample matrix. The non-information-dependent sequential window acquisition of all theoretical fragment ion spectra (SWATH®) mode was used to improve the data acquisition efficiency. The secondary product ion peak areas were used for quantification to obtain a satisfactory matrix effects. The validation experiments confirmed that the developed method exhibited good linearity (5-200 ng/L) with correlation coefficients (R) ≥ 0.9902. Our developed method was then successfully applied to 92 real cosmetic samples. The calibration curve established by this method can be used for retrospective quantitative analysis over long durations without re-calibration. This method is efficient and suitable for screening and controlling multi-class prohibited substances in the cosmetics industry to reduce potential risks.

Hydrophobic Natural Eutectic Solvents for the Gas Chromatographic Determination of Suspected Allergens in Fragrances by Dispersive Liquid-Liquid Microextraction

The fragrance industry plays a key role in the global economy, producing a wide range of personal care and household products. However, some fragrance ingredients have been linked to allergic reactions in sensitive people, and their concentrations are regulated at the European level. For this reason, reliable, rapid, and sustainable analytical methods are needed to rapidly detect and quantify these compounds. Recently, a new class of hydrophobic eutectic solvents (HES) has been introduced; they consist of natural terpenoids or phenolic compounds that can be used as hydrogen bond donors (HBD) and acceptors (HBA), and they are more suitable for GC applications due to their higher volatility. In this study, a dispersive liquid–liquid microextraction (DLLME) approach is proposed for the analysis and quantification of a range of allergens in hydroalcoholic perfumes. The optimized method requires only 50 µL of a natural HES (thymol–eugenol), which is readily dispersed by vortexing in 2 mL of sample. After centrifugation, the HES rich phase is diluted in 400 µL EtOH and directly injected into the GC-FID system. The proposed method has been successfully applied in the analysis and quantification of commercial fragrances, demonstrating good enrichment of target allergens and suitability for aqueous matrices analysis.

Determination of 19 Fragrance Allergens in Paper Household Goods by Solid-Liquid Extraction-Dispersive Liquid-Liquid Microextraction-GC-MS

Background

Fragrance allergens (FAs) refer to these volatile or semi-volatile fragrance compounds that can induce sensitization, and they are widely used in household goods.

Objective

In this work, a method combining solid-liquid extraction (SLE) and dispersive liquid-liquid microextraction (DLLME) with gas chromatography-mass spectrometry (GC-MS) has been developed and applied in the analysis of 19 FAs (including hydrocarbons, alcohols, aldehydes, esters, and phenols) in paper household goods.

Method

The samples (infant or personal paper hygiene products) were cut into small pieces and underwent SLE with methanol as solvent. The supernatant was taken, and ultrapure water, sodium chloride, and trichloromethane (extractant) were added, which was mixed with vortex. After centrifugation, the bottom chloroform layer was taken for GC-MS detection.

Results

Under optimized conditions, a good linearity was achieved (r ≥ 0.9985) in the range of 0.01–128.0 mg/kg with relative standard deviations lower than 15%. The method showed limits of detection (LODs) within the range of 0.96–12.0 µg/kg and recoveries from 70.6% to 128.9%, except furfuryl alcohol with low recoveries (53.8–64.6%). Twenty kinds of paper household goods samples were analyzed by this method; nine FAs were detected. The linalool detected in one sample was more than 10 mg/kg, and the contents of other analytes in this sample and all analytes in other samples were less than 10 mg/kg.

Conclusions

The performance evaluation of the method met the requirements of the analysis of trace components. The established method was successfully applied to the detection of FAs in paper household goods samples. The proposed method could provide a basis for the establishment of relevant detection standards in the future.

Highlights

The LODs were found between 0.96 and 12.0 µg/kg. A simple, economical, and sensitive method was established for the determination of 19 FAs in paper household goods.

Analysis of Fragrance Allergens in Personal Care Products, Toys, and Water Samples: A Review

Fragrance allergens (FAs) refer to these volatile or semi-volatile fragrance compounds that can cause irritation and negative reactions. A large number of emerging FAs are widely used in household goods, and cause contact allergy or allergic contact dermatitis in eczema population and the general population. It shows an increasing prevalence and is regarded as a concern to public health. Recently, more and more studies have focused on the analytical methods of FAs in a variety of samples with different matrices. Therefore, a systematic and comprehensive overview of recent progress of analysis of FAs in various samples is needed. In this review, the physical and chemical properties, applications, hazards, and the recent advances of sample preparation and determination methods of common FAs in personal care products, toys, and water samples are systematically and comprehensively summarized. Meanwhile, this review also discusses the advantages and limitations of different sample pretreatment and detection methods, thus offering a deep-going discussion of the development and future trends in this area.

Immunological Analytical Techniques for Cosmetics Quality Control and Process Monitoring

Cosmetics analysis represents a rapidly expanding field of analytical chemistry as new cosmetic formulations are increasingly in demand on the market and the ingredients required for their production are constantly evolving. Each country applies strict legislation regarding substances in the final product that must be prohibited or regulated. To verify the compliance of cosmetics with current regulations, official analytical methods are available to reveal and quantitatively determine the analytes of interest. However, since ingredients, and the lists of regulated/prohibited substances, rapidly change, dedicated analytical methods must be developed ad hoc to fulfill the new requirements. Research focuses on finding innovative techniques that allow a rapid, inexpensive, and sensitive detection of the target analytes in cosmetics. Among the different methods proposed, immunological techniques are gaining interest, as they make it possible to carry out low-cost analyses on raw materials and finished products in a relatively short time. Indeed, immunoassays are based on the specific and selective antibody/antigen reaction, and they have been extensively applied for clinical diagnostic, alimentary quality control and environmental security purposes, and even for routine analysis. Since the complexity and variability of the matrices, as well as the great variety of compounds present in cosmetics, are analogous with those from food sources, immunological methods could also be applied successfully in this field. Indeed, this would provide a valid approach for the monitoring of industrial production chains even in developing countries, which are currently the greatest producers of cosmetics and the major exporters of raw materials. This review aims to highlight the immunological techniques proposed for cosmetics analysis, focusing on the detection of prohibited/regulated compounds, bacteria and toxins, and allergenic substances, and the identification of counterfeits.

CBD oils on the Belgian market: A validated MRM GC-MS/MS method for routine quality control using QuEChERS sample clean up

Quality control of CBD oils on the Belgium market showed that the CBD content not always corresponds to the label claim. There is a pressing need to develop new analytical methods specifically developed to the assay of such oily samples. Analytical issues are, however, encountered for routine analyses due to the matrix complexity, high cost of cannabinoid standards and low Δ9-THC concentrations. An oily matrix could cause technical damages to analytical instruments and reduce the lifetime of the chromatographic columns. This paper proposes a procedure combining a sample cleanup by QuEChERS, removing the oily matrix, followed by a validated MRM GC-MS/MS method for the routine analysis of CBD oil samples. Eighteen CBD samples were selected on the Belgium market for analysis. This method allows the quantification of CBD, the legality check for the Δ9-THC content by a CBN standard and the screening of seven other cannabinoids namely CBN, CBDV, CBT, CBC, Δ8-THC, THCV and CBG. The method was validated at three concentration levels (0.5-1-2% (w/v)) for CBD and (0.05-0.1-0.2% (w/v)) for CBN. The detection limits for CBT, CBD, CBC, Δ8-THC, CBN and for the other cannabinoids of interest, were 10 and 14 ng/mL respectively. The accuracy profile values for CBD and CBN showed that the β-expectation tolerance intervals did not exceed the acceptance limits of ± 20%, meaning that 90% of future measurements will be included within this error range.

Development of a “Freeze-Pour” Sample Preparation Method for the GC Analysis of Semivolatile Flavouring Chemicals Present in E-cigarette Refill Liquids

During the past decade, e-cigarettes have become increasingly popular. To guarantee their safe use and to comply with the notification requirements of the EU Tobacco Product Directive, the EU member state regulatory authorities need information about the exact composition of the e-liquids and their emissions. However, one of the challenges encountered during the analysis of e-liquids is the presence of the highly abundant e-liquid matrix components propylene glycol and glycerol. In this study, headspace gas chromatography (HS-GC) analysis is presented as an excellent method for the analysis of high volatile components in e-liquids. For the analysis of semivolatile ingredients, an additional sample preparation step is proposed based on a liquid–liquid extraction (LLE) followed by a freeze-out of the matrix components. The developed method was successfully validated in accordance with the validation requirements of ICH guidelines for the quantification of four flavourings with a potential health concern for e-cigarette users.

Enhancing the specificity of chitin determinations through glucosamine analysis via ultra-performance LC-MS

As chitin is gaining an increased attention as feedstock for industry, quantification thereof is becoming increasingly important. While gravimetric procedures are long, not specific and highly labour-intensive, acidic hydrolysis of chitin into glucosamine followed by quantification of the latter is more performant. Even though several quantification procedures for the determination of chitin can be found in the literature, they give inconsistent results and their accuracy was not assessed due to the lack of certified analytical standards. Therefore, in the present study, commercially available chitin from practical grade was characterised in detail, allowing the assessment of method accuracy. The procedure for the hydrolysis of chitin into glucosamine and subsequent quantification via UPLC-MS was investigated in detail as well. Using 9-fluorenylmethyl chloroformate (FMOC-Cl) as derivatisation reagent, glucosamine was quantified using reversed-phase chromatography. For the chitin hydrolysis, the highest glucosamine recovery was obtained with 8.0 M HCl for 2 h at 100 °C. The entire procedure for chitin quantification, including the hydrolysis, was characterised by high interday and intraday precision and accuracy. The specificity of the procedure was assessed as well by analysing different mixtures of cellulose and chitin. Chitin recoveries from these analyses ranged from 98.8 to 105.8% while no signal was observed for 100% cellulose, indicating the high specificity of the procedure. It was also concluded that the procedure is much faster and less labour-intensive compared to the gravimetric procedure.

Review of New Trends in the Analysis of Allergenic Residues in Foods and Cosmetic Products

BACKGROUND

Allergies represent an important health problem in industrialized countries. Allergen sensitization is an important risk factor for the development of allergic diseases; thus, the identification of an individual's allergen sensitization is essential for the diagnosis and treatment of diseases.

OBJECTIVE

This review compares different modern methods applied for the analysis of allergens in various matrices (from 2015 to the end of September 2019).

CONCLUSIONS

Immunological methods are still most frequently used for detection of allergens. These methods are sensitive, but the lack of specificity and cross-reaction of some antibodies can still be a relevant source of errors. DNA-based methods are fast and reliable for determination of protein allergens, but the epitopes of protein allergens with posttranslational modifications and their changes, originated during various processing, cannot be identified through the use of this method. Methods based on application of biosensors are very rapid and easy to use, and can be readily implemented as screening methods to monitor allergens. Recent developments of new high-resolution MS instruments are encouraging and enable development in the analysis of allergens. Fast, very sensitive, reliable, and accurate detection and quantification of allergens in complex samples can be used in the near future. Mass spectrometry coupled with LC, GC, or electrophoretic methods bring additional advances in allergen analysis. The use of LC-MS or LC-MS/MS for the quantitative detection of allergens in various matrices is at present gaining acceptance as a protein-based confirmatory technique over the routinely performed enzyme-linked immunosorbent assays.

Evaluation of flavour profiles in e-cigarette refill solutions using gas chromatography-tandem mass spectrometry

Many flavour compounds that are present in e-liquids for e-cigarettes are responsible for specific tastes and smoking sensations for users. Data concerning content and specific types of flavours is often limited and unknown to users. The aim of the research was to define and compare flavour profiles of e-liquids with the same group taste from different manufacturers. Gas chromatography coupled with tandem mass spectrometry (GC-MS/MS) was used to separate and identify 90 popular compounds (98, including isomers) of interest. The developed method was validated in terms of accuracy (88-113%) for three spiking levels and the intra-day (0.2-13%) and inter-day precision (1-10%). Limits of quantitation were in the range of 10-816 ng/mL, while the matrix effects for 80% of the compounds were at negligible levels. The proposed method is rapid, simple and reliable and uses a green and modern GC-MS/MS technique. Twenty-five samples of five different flavours (tobacco, strawberry, cherry, menthol and apple) from five different producers were analysed, and the determined compounds were categorized and differentiated. The approach proposed in this study allowed for the evaluation of which compounds/group of compounds are responsible for taste and to distinguish common flavour compounds among the investigated brands for each flavour. Furthermore, the presented research can be considered in future toxicological studies.

The Skin as a Route of Allergen Exposure: Part II. Allergens and Role of the Microbiome and Environmental Exposures

PURPOSE OF REVIEW

This second part of the article aims to highlight recent contributions in the literature that enhance our understanding of the cutaneous immune response to allergen.

RECENT FINDINGS

Several properties of allergens facilitate barrier disruption and cutaneous sensitization. There is a strong epidemiologic relationship between the microbiome, both the gut and skin, and atopic dermatitis (AD). The mechanisms connecting these two entities remain enigmatic; however, recent murine models show that commensal skin bacteria play an active role in supporting skin barrier homeostasis and defense against microbial penetration. Likewise, the association between the lack of colonization with Staph species and AD development suggests a potentially functional role for these organisms in regulating the skin barrier and response to environmental allergens. In undisrupted skin, evidence suggests that the cutaneous route may promote allergen tolerance. Properties of environmental allergens and commensal bacteria add to the complex landscape of skin immunity. Further investigation is needed to elucidate how these properties regulate the cutaneous immune response to allergen.

Good quantification practices of flavours and fragrances by mass spectrometry

Over the past 15 years, chromatographic techniques with mass spectrometric detection have been increasingly used to monitor the rapidly expanded list of regulated flavour and fragrance ingredients. This trend entails a need for good quantification practices suitable for complex media, especially for multi-analytes. In this article, we present experimental precautions needed to perform the analyses and ways to process the data according to the most recent approaches. This notably includes the identification of analytes during their quantification and method validation, when applied to real matrices, based on accuracy profiles. A brief survey of application studies based on such practices is given.This article is part of the themed issue 'Quantitative mass spectrometry'.

A simple dilute and shoot methodology for the identification and quantification of illegal insulin

The occurrence of illegal medicines is a well-established global problem and concerns mostly small molecules. However, due to the advances in genomics and recombinant expression technologies there is an increased development of polypeptide therapeutics. Insulin is one of the best known polypeptide drug, and illegal versions of this medicine led to lethal incidents in the past. Therefore, it is crucial for the public health sector to develop reliable, efficient, cheap, unbiased and easily applicable active pharmaceutical ingredient (API) identification and quantification strategies for routine analysis of suspected illegal insulins. Here we demonstrate that our combined label-free full scan approach is not only able to distinguish between all those different versions of insulin and the insulins originating from different species, but also able to chromatographically separate human insulin and insulin lispro in conditions that are compatible with mass spectrometry (MS). Additionally, we were also able to selectively quantify the different insulins, including human insulin and insulin lispro according to the validation criteria, put forward by the United Nations (UN), for the analysis of seized illicit drugs. The proposed identification and quantification method is currently being used in our official medicines control laboratory to analyze insulins retrieved from the illegal market.

Liquid chromatography/tandem mass spectrometry for simultaneous determination of undeclared corticosteroids in cosmetic creams

RATIONALE

Undeclared corticosteroids in creams intended for frequent use might cause serious side-effects, especially in children. In order to prevent this or find the cause, it was essential to develop a method for quick detection and quantification of low levels of corticosteroids.

METHODS

Eleven corticosteroids were used in this study: prednisolone, methylprednisolone, prednisolone-21-acetate, fluocinolone acetonide, fluocinolone acetonide-21-acetate, hydrocortisone-21-acetate, dexamethasone, betamethasone, betamethasone dipropionate, clobetasol propionate and triamcinolone. Separation was achieved via liquid chromatography (LC), and mass spectrometric analysis was conducted by electrospray ionization triple-quadrupole mass spectrometry (MS/MS) in the multiple reaction monitoring mode using corticosterone as internal standard.

RESULTS

Good separation by using a gradient-elution LC/MS/MS method with run time of 25 min enabled the use of a segmented detection method and consecutive decrease in detection limits. The proposed method has been validated in the linearity range of 10-1000 ng/mL with coefficients of determination higher than 0.990. The method has shown to have very low limits of quantification (0.75-3 ng/mL) with satisfactory precision and accuracy for each of the corticosteroids.

CONCLUSIONS

An LC/MS/MS method for the rapid and simultaneous determination of low levels of eleven topical corticosteroids in creams was developed, optimized and validated. The proposed method can be used for testing of different products indicated for the treatment of atopic dermatitis, including "natural products", and "herbal creams" with "miraculous effects".