The roles of cytokines in photoaging

Pterostilbene and resveratrol: Exploring their protective mechanisms against skin photoaging - A scoping review

Prolonged ultraviolet (UV) exposure depletes the skin's endogenous antioxidants, leading to photoaging. Exogenous antioxidants are essential to counter this, with stilbenes such as pterostilbene and resveratrol emerging as promising candidates due to their antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and anti-cancer properties. The current scoping review presents an overview of the evidence on the effects of pterostilbene and resveratrol on skin photoaging. A literature search was conducted using PubMed, Scopus, and Web of Science databases in April 2025. Original research articles that investigated the effects of pterostilbene and resveratrol on skin photoaging in cells, animals, or humans were included. 9 eligible articles were included in this review. The findings suggest that resveratrol significantly improves skin photoaging, while preliminary evidence indicates that pterostilbene may offer advantages over resveratrol. However, due to the limited research on pterostilbene, further studies are required to confirm its efficacy. Key considerations in establishing valid in vitro and in vivo models, alongside macroscopic and histologic features of photoaging, were also discussed. In conclusion, while resveratrol shows significant promise in combating skin photoaging, pterostilbene is still in the early exploration phases. Advancing to human trials is crucial to confirm the efficacy of these stilbenes in preventing and treating photoaging.

Emerging role of ferroptosis in ultraviolet radiation-driven skin photoaging: a narrative review

Photoaging is characterized by chronic inflammation in response to ultraviolet (UV) radiation. UV radiation causes skin cells to produce reactive oxygen species (ROS), which causes oxidative stress and inflammation. ROS can reversibly or irreversibly destroy different cellular compounds, including nucleic acids, proteins, free amino acids, lipids, lipoproteins, carbohydrates, and connective tissue macromolecules. Ferroptosis is a kind of programmed cell death caused by iron dependence and lipid peroxidation and has been recently discovered. Its occurrence is primarily related to iron metabolism, antioxidants, lipid peroxidation, and other processes. In addition, high levels of ROS can trigger oxidative stress, altering the redox balance within cells and thus initiating ferroptosis. Ferroptosis has been implicated in UV-driven skin photoaging. Moreover, UV radiation from sunlight can regulate numerous ferroptosis-linked genes. This review will focus on the function of ferroptosis in UV radiation-damaged skin cells. We hope to draw attention to the significance of ferroptosis regulation in the prevention and treatment of skin photoaging.

Evaluation of the Biological Effect of a Nicotinamide-Containing Broad-Spectrum Sunscreen on Photodamaged Skin

INTRODUCTION

UVA-UVB increases skin matrix metalloproteinases and breaks down extracellular proteins and fibrillar type 1 collagen, leading to photodamage. Topical application of nicotinamide prevents UV-induced immunosuppression. Several studies have demonstrated the importance of protection against UV. This study aims to determine the biological effect of a high broad-spectrum UVB-UVA sunscreen containing nicotinamide and panthenol (SSNP) on photodamaged skin using linear confocal optical coherence tomography (LC-OCT), immunohistochemistry, and RNA profiling.

METHODS

Two areas of severely photodamaged forearm skin (L01 and L02) and one less sun-damaged (naturally protected) area on the inner part of the forearm (L03) were identified in 14 subjects. These areas were imaged using LC-OCT and L01 and L03 were biopsied at baseline. After 4 weeks of treatment with SSNP, L02 was reimaged using LC-OCT, and biopsied. Histology, immunostaining with p21, p53, PCNA, and CPD, and RNA sequencing were performed in all samples.

RESULTS

LC-OCT analysis showed that epidermis thickness and the number of keratinocytes is higher in the sun-exposed areas than in the non-exposed areas. Comparing before and after treatment, even though there is a trend towards normalization, the differences were not statistically significant. The expression of p21, PCNA, p53, and CPD increased in severely photodamaged skin compared to less-damaged skin. When comparing before and after treatment, only p21 showed a trend to decrease expression. RNA sequencing analysis identified 1552 significant genes correlating with the progression from non-visibly photodamaged skin to post-treatment and pre-treatment samples; in the analysis comparing pre- and post-treatment samples, 5429 genes were found to be significantly associated. A total of 1115 genes are common in these two analyses. Additionally, nine significant genes from the first analysis and eight from the second are related to collagen. Six of these collagen genes are common in the two analyses. MAPK and cGMP-PKG signalling pathways are upregulated in the progression to photodamage analysis. In the pre- and post-treatment analysis, 32 pathways are downregulated after treatment, the most statistically significant being the ErbB, Hippo, NOD-like receptor, TNF, and NF-kB signalling pathways.

CONCLUSION

This study demonstrates the role of SSNP in collagen generation, highlights the relevance of the cGMP-PKG and MAPK signalling pathways in photodamage, and shows the ability of SSNP to downregulate pathways activated by UV exposure. Additionally, it deepens our understanding of the effect of SSNP on immune-related pathways.

Skin protective effect of Indian gooseberry and barley sprout complex on skin dryness, wrinkles, and melanogenesis by cell models

BACKGROUND/OBJECTIVES

UV radiation is a major factor contributing to DNA damage in skin cells, including stem cells and mesenchymal stem cells, leading to the depletion of these crucial cells. This study examined whether a mixture of Indian gooseberry and barley sprout (IB) could inhibit UVB irradiation and 3-isobutyl-1-methylxanthine (IBMX)-induced photoaging and oxidative stress in the skin using HaCaT, Hs27, and B16F10 cells.

MATERIALS/METHODS

The moisturizing-related factors, the collagen synthesis-related c-Jun N-terminal kinase (JNK)/c-Fos/c-Jun/matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs) pathway, and the melanogenesis-related cyclic adenosine monophosphate (cAMP)/protein kinase A (PKA)/cAMP-responsive binding protein (CREB)/melanocyte inducing transcription factor (MITF)/tyrosinase-related protein (TRP)/tyrosinase activation pathways were analyzed in vitro by an enzyme-linked immunosorbent assay, real-time polymerase chain reaction, and Western blot analysis.

RESULTS

The IB complex increased the hyaluronic acid and sphingomyelin levels and the collagenase inhibitory activity, enhanced hydration-related factors, including collagen, hyaluronic acid synthase (HAS), elastin, long chain base subunit 1 (LCB1) (serine palmitoyltransferase; SPT), and delta 4-desaturase sphingolipid 1 (DEGS1), modulated the inflammatory cytokines levels, antioxidant enzyme activities and the NF-κB/MMPs/cyclooxygenase-2 (COX-2) pathway in UVB-irradiated HaCaT cells, and inhibited wrinkle formation by down-regulation of the JNK/c-Fos/c-Jun/MMP pathway and up-regulation of the transforming growth factor-β receptor I (TGFβR1)/small mothers against decapentaplegic homolog (Smad3)/procollagen type І pathway in UVB-irradiated Hs27 cells. Moreover, the IB complex prevented melanin production by down-regulating the PKA/CREB/MITF/TRP-1/TRP-2 pathway in IBMX-induced B16F10 cells.

CONCLUSION

These findings suggest that the IB complex has the potential to serve as a safeguard, shielding the skin from UVB radiation-induced photo-damage.

Duo photoprotective effect via silica-coated zinc oxide nanoparticles and Vitamin C nanovesicles composites

OBJECTIVE

Zinc Oxide nanoparticles (ZnO NPs) are used widely in nowadays personal care products, especially sunscreens, as a protector against UV irradiation. Yet, they have some reports of potential toxicity. Silica is widely used to cage ZnO NPs to reduce their potential toxicity. Vitamin C derivative, Magnesium Ascorpyl Phosphate (MAP), is a potent antioxidant that can efficiently protect human skin from harmful impacts of UV irradiation and oxidative stress. The combination of silica coated ZnO NPs and MAP nanovesicles could have potential synergistic protective effect against skin photodamage.

METHODS

Silica coated ZnO NPs and MAP nanovesicles (ethosomes and niosomes) were synthesized, formulated, and evaluated as topical gels. These gel formulations were evaluated in mice for their photoprotective effect against UV irradiation through histopathology and immuno-histochemistry study. Split-face clinical study was conducted to compare the effect of application of silica coated ZnO NPs either alone or combined with MAP nanovesicles. Their photoprotective action was evaluated, using Antera 3D® camera, for melanin level, roughness index and wrinkles depth.

RESULTS

Silica coated ZnO NPs when combined with MAP nanovesicles protected mice skin from UV irradiation and decreased the expression of the proinflammatory cytokines, NF-κB. Clinically, silica coated ZnO NPs, alone or combined with MAP nanovesicles, could have significant effect to decrease melanin level, roughness index and wrinkles depth with higher effect for the combination.

CONCLUSION

A composite of silica coated ZnO NPs and MAP nanovesicles could be a promising cosmetic formulation for skin protection against photodamage signs such as hyperpigmentation, roughness, and wrinkles.

Role of autophagy in skin photoaging: A narrative review

As the largest organ of the human body, the skin serves as the primary barrier against external damage. The continuous increase in human activities and environmental pollution has resulted in the ongoing depletion of the ozone layer. Excessive exposure to ultraviolet (UV) radiation enhances the impact of external factors on the skin, leading to photoaging. Photoaging causes physical and psychological damage to the human body. The prevention and management of photoaging have attracted increased attention in recent years. Despite significant progress in understanding and mitigating UV-induced photoaging, the precise mechanisms through which autophagy contributes to the prevention of photoaging remain unclear. Given the important role of autophagy in repairing UV-induced DNA damage and scavenging oxidized lipids, autophagy is considered a novel strategy for preventing the occurrence of photoaging and other UV light-induced skin diseases. This review aims to elucidate the biochemical and clinical features of photoaging, the relationship of skin photoaging and chronological aging, the mechanisms underlying skin photoaging and autophagy, and the role of autophagy in skin photoaging.

Oleuropein-Rich Gellan Gum/Alginate Films as Innovative Treatments against Photo-Induced Skin Aging

Olea europaea L. leaf extracts (OLEs) represent highly value-added agro-industrial byproducts, being promising sources of significant antioxidant compounds, such as their main component, oleuropein. In this work, hydrogel films based on low-acyl gellan gum (GG) blended with sodium alginate (NaALG) were loaded with OLE and crosslinked with tartaric acid (TA). The films' ability to act as an antioxidant and photoprotectant against UVA-induced photoaging, thanks to their capability to convey oleuropein to the skin, were examined with the aim of a potential application as facial masks. Biological in vitro performances of the proposed materials were tested on normal human dermal fibroblasts (NhDFs), both under normal conditions and after aging-induced UVA treatment. Overall, our results clearly show the intriguing properties of the proposed hydrogels as effective and fully naturally formulated anti-photoaging smart materials for potential use as facial masks.

Effects of probiotics supplementation on skin photoaging and skin barrier function: A systematic review and meta-analysis

BACKGROUND

Ultraviolet (UV) irradiation is one of the major causes of skin aging. To date, there remains limited evidence on using oral probiotics for skin anti-photoaging.

OBJECTIVES

This systematic review and meta-analysis aims to assess the effects of probiotics on skin photoaging.

METHODS

We searched the PubMed and Embase databases for studies published until August 31, 2021, and included randomized controlled trials, murine randomized controlled experiments, and in vitro studies. Skin barrier function was compared between UV irradiated probiotics and controls.

RESULTS

After given oral probiotics supplements, a significant reduction was shown in all types of measured MMPs in both murine and in vitro studies. Oral probiotics supplementation significantly reversed UV-induced increase of epidermal thickness (standardized mean differences [SMD] = -1.76; 95% confidence interval [CI] = -3.04 to -0.49; p = .007; I²  = 81%), UV-induced increase trans-epidermal water loss (SMD = -1.72; 95% CI = -2.76 to -0.67; p = .001; I²  = 57%), and UV-induced skin dehydration (SMD = 1.85; 95% CI = 1.16 to 2.55; p < .00001; I²  = 4%).

CONCLUSIONS

Probiotics are effective against skin photoaging in terms of MMP pathways and reversing skin barrier function from murine randomized data. Further randomized controlled trials on humans are required to warrant these results.

Anti-inflammation and anti-aging mechanisms of mercaptopurine in vivo and in vitro

Skin is the biggest organ of the human body, which easily gets irritated by exposure to the sun. Skin photoaging and acute photodamage are caused by intense UV-B radiation. Therefore, it is imperative to find new compounds to prevent skin damage and aging. Mercaptopurine is an immunologic agent commonly used for treating Acute lymphoblastic leukemia and inflammatory bowel disease. The beneficial effects of mercaptopurine on the skin have not been reported, and its intrinsic mechanism of action is unclear. Therefore, this study was to explore mercaptopurine when exposed to UV-B radiation in HacaT cells and C57BL6 mice aging and damage effects. The model of in vivo UV-B-induced skin damage and skin photoaging was established, and the impact of mercaptopurine on cell and animal skin was studied. The study found that mercaptopurine, on the one hand, inhibits cellular and animal senescence. On the other, it inhibits the expression of mitogen-activated protein kinase (MAPK) and the nuclear factor κB (NF-κB), which are important signaling molecules in the early UV-B reaction signaling pathway. In addition, mercaptopurine downregulates matrix metalloproteinase expression, increases collagen fiber content, and facilitates collagen synthesis. Treatment with mercaptopurine also inhibits the expression of inflammatory factors and reduces inflammatory cell infiltration of the skin. In conclusion, our study elucidates mercaptopurine's anti-photoaging and anti-inflammatory activity in cellular and animal models.

Fish Collagen Peptide (NaticolⓇ) Protects the Skin from Dryness, Wrinkle Formation, and Melanogenesis Both In Vitro and In Vivo

Consistent ultraviolet B (UVB) radiation exposure results in dry skin, wrinkles, and melanogenesis. In this study, we investigated whether fish collagen peptide (Naticol^Ⓡ) could inhibit photoaging and oxidative stress in skin exposed to UVB using cell and animal models. We measured the skin hydration, histological observations, antioxidant activities, moisturizing-related factors, collagen synthesis-related factors, and melanogenesis-related factors in skin cells and animal skin using enzyme-linked immunosorbent assay, real-time polymerase chain reaction, and Western blot assay. Naticol^Ⓡ collagen improved skin moisturization via hyaluronic acid and ceramide synthesis-related factors in HaCaT cells and SHK-I hairless mice that were exposed to UVB. In addition, Naticol^Ⓡ collagen inhibited wrinkle formation in Hs27 cells and SHK-I hairless mice exposed to UVB and restrained melanogenesis in 3-isobutyl-1-methylxanthine-induced B16F10 cells and UVB-irradiated SHK-I hairless mice. On the basis of these findings, we propose that ingestion of Naticol ^Ⓡ collagen might be valuable for preventing skin photoaging.

Antioxidant, Whitening, Antiwrinkle, and Anti-Inflammatory Effect of Ajuga spectabilis Nakai Extract

Since ancient times, plants have been a good source of natural antioxidants. Plants remove active oxygen through antioxidants and contain various active ingredients. These active ingredients of plants are used to alleviate skin aging and chronic diseases. Ajuga spectabilis Nakai (AS) is a perennial plant, is endemic to Korea, and has the characteristics of alpine plants. The aim of this study was to assure the possibility of using AS as a functional natural and cosmetic material. For this, we carried out biologically activated material characteristic evaluations about antioxidant, wrinkle reduction, and anti-inflammatory effects using AS extract. To carry out this experiment, we extracted AS extract from AS water extract (AS-W) and AS 70% ethanol extract (AS-E). AS-E showed the highest DPPH activity and tyrosinase inhibitory activity. After, the measurement of metalloprotease (MMP)-1 inhibition effect showed the AS-W and AS-E activation at the concentration of 100 µg/mL. In addition, at the same concentration, from the result of the measurement of the biosynthesis quantity of pro-collagen type-1 we knew that its excellent effect appeared in AS-E (CCD-986sk). The inhibition of NO production in AS-W and AS-E was confirmed in LPS-induced mouse macrophage RAW264.7 cells. On cell viability, it was judged that AS-E had no toxicity because it showed a high cell viability at a high concentration, and it was used for the anti-inflammatory activity. Inhibition of NO production worked only in AS-E; inflammatory cytokine TNF-α and IL-6 were suppressed in a concentration-dependent manner in AS-E. AS is believed to be used as a natural cosmetic material because it has been proven to have antioxidant, whitening, wrinkle-improving, and anti-inflammatory effects. Therefore, the results indicate that AS extract can play an important role as a functional natural material and a cosmetic material for whitening, wrinkle reduction, and anti-inflammatory effect.

Effects of Natural Polyphenols on Skin and Hair Health: A Review

The skin is the largest organ of the body and plays multiple essential roles, ranging from regulating temperature, preventing infections, to ultimately affecting human health. A hair follicle is a complex cutaneous appendage. Skin diseases and hair loss have a significant effect on the quality of life and psychosocial adjustment of individuals. However, the available traditional drugs for treating skin and hair diseases may have some insufficiencies; therefore, a growing number of researchers are interested in natural materials that could achieve satisfactory results and minimize adverse effects. Natural polyphenols, named for the multiple phenolic hydroxyl groups in their structures, are promising candidates and continue to be of scientific interest due to their multifunctional biological properties and safety. Polyphenols have a wide range of pharmacological effects. In addition to the most common effect, antioxidation, polyphenols have anti-inflammatory, bacteriostatic, antitumor, and other biological effects associated with reduced risk of a number of chronic diseases. Various polyphenols have also shown efficacy against different types of skin and hair diseases, both in vitro and in vivo, via different mechanisms. Thus, this paper reviews the research progress in natural polyphenols for the protection of skin and hair health, especially focusing on their potential therapeutic mechanisms against skin and hair disorders. A deep understanding of natural polyphenols provides a new perspective for the safe treatment of skin diseases and hair loss.

Autophagy plays an essential role in ultraviolet radiation-driven skin photoaging

Photoaging is characterized by a chronic inflammatory response to UV light. One of the most prominent features of cutaneous photoaging is wrinkling, which is due primarily to a loss of collagen fibers and deposits of abnormal degenerative elastotic material within the dermis (actinic elastosis). These changes are thought to be mediated by inflammation, with subsequent upregulation of extracellular matrix-degrading proteases and down-regulation of collagen synthesis. Autophagy is a vital homeostatic cellular process of either clearing surplus or damaged cell components notably lipids and proteins or recycling the content of the cells’ cytoplasm to promote cell survival and adaptive responses during starvation and other oxidative and/or genotoxic stress conditions. Autophagy may also become a means of supplying nutrients to maintain a high cellular proliferation rate when needed. It has been suggested that loss of autophagy leads to both photodamage and the initiation of photoaging in UV exposed skin. Moreover, UV radiation of sunlight is capable of regulating a number of autophagy-linked genes. This review will focus on the protective effect of autophagy in the skin cells damaged by UV radiation. We hope to draw attention to the significance of autophagy regulation in the prevention and treatment of skin photoaging.

Photoaging: UV radiation-induced inflammation and immunosuppression accelerate the aging process in the skin

Background

Excessive exposure of the skin to UV radiation (UVR) triggers a remodeling of the immune system and leads to the photoaging state which is reminiscent of chronological aging. Over 30 years ago, it was observed that UVR induced an immunosuppressive state which inhibited skin contact hypersensitivity.

Methods

Original and review articles encompassing inflammation and immunosuppression in the photoaging and chronological aging processes were examined from major databases including PubMed, Scopus, and Google Scholar.

Results

Currently it is known that UVR treatment can trigger a cellular senescence and inflammatory state in the skin. Chronic low-grade inflammation stimulates a counteracting immunosuppression involving an expansion of immunosuppressive cells, e.g., regulatory T cells (Treg), myeloid-derived suppressor cells (MDSC), and regulatory dendritic cells (DCreg). This increased immunosuppressive activity not only suppresses the function of effector immune cells, a state called immunosenescence, but it also induces bystander degeneration of neighboring cells. Interestingly, the chronological aging process also involves an accumulation of pro-inflammatory senescent cells and signs of chronic low-grade inflammation, called inflammaging. There is also clear evidence that inflammaging is associated with an increase in anti-inflammatory and immunosuppressive activities which promote immunosenescence.

Conclusion

It seems that photoaging and normal aging evoke similar processes driven by the remodeling of the immune system. However, it is likely that there are different molecular mechanisms inducing inflammation and immunosuppression in the accelerated photoaging and the chronological aging processes.

Anti-Photoaging Effect of Hydrolysates from Pacific Whiting Skin via MAPK/AP-1, NF-κB, TGF-β/Smad, and Nrf-2/HO-1 Signaling Pathway in UVB-Induced Human Dermal Fibroblasts

Chronic exposure to ultraviolet (UV) light promotes the breakdown of collagen in the skin and disrupts the extracellular matrix (ECM) structure, leading to skin wrinkling. Pacific whiting (Merluccius productus) is a fish abundant on the Pacific coast. In the current study, we investigated the anti-wrinkle effect of hydrolysate from Pacific whiting skin gelatin (PWG) in UVB-irradiated human dermal fibroblasts and the molecular mechanisms involved. PWG effectively restored type 1 procollagen synthesis reduced by UVB-irradiation. Also, we found that PWG inhibited collagen degradation by inhibiting MMP1 expression. Furthermore, PWG decreased cytokines TNF-α, IL-6, and IL-1β associated with inflammatory responses and increased antioxidant enzymes, HO-1, SOD, GPx, CAT, and GSH content, a defense system against oxidative stress. In terms of molecular mechanisms, PWG increased collagen synthesis through activating the transforming growth factor β (TGF-β)/Smad pathway and decreased collagen degradation through inhibiting the mitogen-activated protein kinases/activator protein 1 (MAPK/AP-1) pathway. It also suppressed the inflammatory response through suppressing the nuclear factor-κB (NF-κB) pathway and increased antioxidant enzyme activity through activating the nuclear factor erythroid 2/heme oxygenase 1 (Nrf-2/HO-1) pathway. These multi-target mechanisms suggest that PWG may serve as an effective anti-photoaging material.

Theragra chalcogramma Hydrolysates, Rich in Gly-Leu-Pro-Ser-Tyr-Thr, Exerts Anti-Photoaging Potential via Targeting MAPK and NF-κB Pathways in SD Rats

Previous studies have revealed that excessive exposure to UV irradiation is the main cause of skin photoaging and the signaling pathways of MAPK and NF-κB are involved in this progression. The present study aims to investigate the anti-photoaging effects of low molecular weight hydrolysates from Theragra chalcogramma (TCH) and to clarify the underlying mechanism. The degradation of mechanical barrier functions in photoaged skin was substantially ameliorated after TCH administration; meanwhile, TCH significantly elevated the antioxidant capacity and suppressed the over-production of inflammatory cytokine IL-1β. Moreover, the histopathological deteriorations such as epidermal hyperplasia and dermal loss were significantly alleviated, along with the increase in procollagen type I content and decrease in MMP-1 activity (p < 0.05). Furthermore, TCH effectively blocked the MAPK and NF-κB signaling pathways through inhibition of the phosphorylation of p38, JNK, ERK, iκB, and p65 proteins. Collectively, these data indicate that TCH has potential as a novel ingredient for the development of anti-photoaging foods.

Extraction and Nano-Sized Delivery Systems for Phlorotannins to Improve Its Bioavailability and Bioactivity

This review aims to provide an informative summary of studies on extraction and nanoencapsulation of phlorotannins to improve their bioavailability and bioactivity. The origin, structure, and different types of phlorotannins were briefly discussed, and the extraction/purification/characterization methods for phlorotannins were reviewed, with a focus on techniques to improve the bioactivities and bioavailability of phlorotannins via nano-sized delivery systems. Phlorotannins are promising natural polyphenol compounds that have displayed high bioactivities in several areas: anticancer, anti-inflammation, anti-HIV, antidiabetic, and antioxidant. This review aims to provide a useful reference for researchers working on developing better utilization strategies for phlorotannins as pharmaceuticals, therapeuticals, and functional food supplements.

Novel amphibian-derived antioxidant peptide protects skin against ultraviolet irradiation damage

Given the adverse impact of ultraviolet irradiation on human skin, as well as currently limited interventions, the discovery of new molecules with anti-photodamage potency remains critical. In this research, we obtained a new bioactive peptide (named OS-LL11, amino acid sequence 'LLPPWLCPRNK') from Odorrana schmackeri. Results showed that OS-LL11 could directly scavenge free radicals and sustain the viability of mouse keratinocytes challenged by ultraviolet B (UVB) irradiation or hydrogen peroxide (H₂O₂) by decreasing the levels of lipid peroxidation, malondialdehyde, and reactive oxygen species while increasing the level of catalase, Keap-1, HO-1, GCLM, and NQO1. Interestingly, topical application of OS-LL11 protected mouse skin against UVB irradiation damage by up-regulating the levels of superoxide dismutase, glutathione, and nitric oxide, but down-regulating the levels of H₂O₂, IL-1α, IL-1β, IL-6, TNF-α, 8-OHdG, Bcl-2, and Bax, as well as the number of apoptotic bodies. Our research demonstrated the anti-photodamage activity of a novel amphibian-derived peptide and the potential underlying mechanisms related to its free radical scavenging ability and antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and anti-apoptotic activities. This study provides a new molecule for the development of anti-skin photodamage drugs or cosmetics and highlights the prospects of amphibian-derived peptides in photodamaged skin intervention.

Acer tataricum subsp. ginnala Inhibits Skin Photoaging via Regulating MAPK/AP-1, NF-κB, and TGFβ/Smad Signaling in UVB-Irradiated Human Dermal Fibroblasts

Skin, the organ protecting the human body from external factors, maintains structural and tensile strength by containing many collagen fibrils, particularly type I procollagen. However, oxidative stress by ultraviolet (UV) exposure causes skin photoaging by activating collagen degradation and inhibiting collagen synthesis. Acer tataricum subsp. ginnala extract (AGE) is a herbal medicine with anti-inflammatory and anti-oxidative effects, but there is no report on the protective effect against skin photoaging. Therefore, we conducted research concentrating on the anti-photoaging effect of Acer tataricum subsp. ginnala (AG) in UVB (20 mJ/cm²)-irradiated human dermal fibroblasts (HDF). Then, various concentrations (7.5, 15, 30 µg/mL) of AGE were treated in HDF for 24 h following UVB irradiation. After we performed AGE treatment, the matrix metalloproteinase1 (MMP1) expression was downregulated, and the type I procollagen level was recovered. Then, we investigated the mitogen-activated protein kinases/activator protein 1 (MAPK/AP-1) and nuclear factor-κB (NF-κB) pathway, which induce collagen breakdown by promoting the MMP1 level and pro-inflammatory cytokines. The results indicated that AGE downregulates the expression of the MAPK/AP-1 pathway, leading to MMP1 reduction. AGE inhibits nuclear translocation of NF-κB and inhibitor of nuclear factor-κB (IκB) degradation. Therefore, it downregulates the expression of MMP1 and pro-inflammatory cytokines such as TNF-α, IL-1β, and IL-6 increased by UVB. Besides, the TGFβ/Smad pathway, which is mainly responsible for the collagen synthesis in the skin, was also analyzed. AGE decreases the expression of Smad7 and increases TGFβRII expression and Smad3 phosphorylation. This means that AGE stimulates the TGFβ/Smad pathway that plays a critical role in promoting collagen synthesis. Thus, this study suggests that AGE can be a functional material with anti-photoaging properties.

Walnut protein hydrolysates, rich with peptide fragments of WSREEQEREE and ADIYTEEAGR ameliorate UV-induced photoaging through inhibition of the NF-κB/MMP-1 signaling pathway in female rats

Skin photoaging is a complicated pathological process, and the imbalance of inflammatory regulation is associated highly with photoaging progression. Previously, prepared walnut protein hydrolysates (WPH), rich with peptide fragments of WSREEQEREE and ADIYTEEAGR demonstrated desirable photoprotection. However, it remains unclear if the photoprotection is mediated by the targeted inhibition of the NF-κB signaling pathway. Herein, we examined the regulation of WPH on inflammatory cytokine expression, and elucidated the modulation of the NF-κB/MMP-1 signaling pathway by WPH in a photoaging SD rat model. WPH significantly reduced the expression level of inflammatory cytokines IL-1β and IL-6, but significantly increased the level of IL-2 (all P < 0.05). Furthermore, WPH dramatically inhibited the activation of the NF-κB signaling pathway by mitigating the phosphorylation of IκB and p-65 proteins in a dose-dependent manner. The histopathological results indicated that WPH predominately attenuated epidermal hyperplasia, reduced the inflammatory filtration, and promoted collagen deposition in the photoaging skin tissue. Furthermore, WPH significantly stimulated the expression of TGF-β and procollagen type I, and inhibited the MMP-1 activities (all P < 0.05). Overall, the underlying mechanism of WPH ameliorating skin photoaging may be attributed to the synergistic modulation via reversing the inflammatory imbalance, suppressing the activation of the NF-κB signal pathway, stimulating procollagen type I synthesis, and inhibiting MMP-1 activities. According to these results, it can be concluded that WPH has the potential as an anti-photoaging agent in functional foods.

Skin photo-protection with phytochemicals against photo-oxidative stress, photo-carcinogenesis, signal transduction pathways and extracellular matrix remodeling-An overview

Excessive exposure of skin to UV radiation triggers the generation of oxidative stress, inflammation, immunosuppression, apoptosis, matrix-metalloproteases production, and DNA mutations leading to the onset of photo ageing and photo-carcinogenesis. At the molecular level, these changes occur via activation of several protein kinases as well as transcription pathways, formation of reactive oxygen species, and release of cytokines, interleukins and prostaglandins together. Current therapies available on the market only provide limited solutions and exhibit several side effects. The present paper provides insight into scientific studies that have elucidated the positive role of phytochemicals in counteracting the UV-induced depletion of antioxidant enzymes, increased lipid peroxidation, inflammation, DNA mutations, increased senescence, dysfunctional apoptosis and immune suppression. The contribution of phytochemicals to the downregulation of expression of oxidative-stress sensitive transcription factors (Nrf2, NF-Kb, AP-1 and p53) and protein kinases (MSK, ERK, JNK, p38 MAPK, p90RSK2 and CaMKs) involved in inflammation, apoptosis, immune suppression, extracellular matrix remodelling, senescence, photo ageing and photo-carcinogenesis, is also discussed. Conclusively, several phytochemicals hold potential for the development of a viable solution against UV irradiation-mediated photo ageing, photo-carcinogenesis and related manifestations.

Marine-Derived Compounds with Potential Use as Cosmeceuticals and Nutricosmetics

The cosmetic industry is among the fastest growing industries in the last decade. As the beauty concepts have been revolutionized, many terms have been coined to accompany the innovation of this industry, since the beauty products are not just confined to those that are applied to protect and enhance the appearance of the human body. Consequently, the terms such as cosmeceuticals and nutricosmetics have emerged to give a notion of the health benefits of the products that create the beauty from inside to outside. In the past years, natural products-based cosmeceuticals have gained a huge amount of attention not only from researchers but also from the public due to the general belief that they are harmless. Notably, in recent years, the demand for cosmeceuticals from the marine resources has been exponentially on the rise due to their unique chemical and biological properties that are not found in terrestrial resources. Therefore, the present review addresses the importance of marine-derived compounds, stressing new chemical entities with cosmeceutical potential from the marine natural resources and their mechanisms of action by which these compounds exert on the body functions as well as their related health benefits. Marine environments are the most important reservoir of biodiversity that provide biologically active substances whose potential is still to be discovered for application as pharmaceuticals, nutraceuticals, and cosmeceuticals. Marine organisms are not only an important renewable source of valuable bulk compounds used in cosmetic industry such as agar and carrageenan, which are used as gelling and thickening agents to increase the viscosity of cosmetic formulations, but also of small molecules such as ectoine (to promote skin hydration), trichodin A (to prevent product alteration caused by microbial contamination), and mytiloxanthin (as a coloring agent). Marine-derived molecules can also function as active ingredients, being the main compounds that determine the function of cosmeceuticals such as anti-tyrosinase (kojic acid), antiacne (sargafuran), whitening (chrysophanol), UV protection (scytonemin, mycosporine-like amino acids (MAAs)), antioxidants, and anti-wrinkle (astaxanthin and PUFAs).

Low molecular polypeptide from oyster hydrolysate recovers photoaging in SKH-1 hairless mice

When the human skin is chronically exposed to external stimuli such as ultraviolet (UV) radiation, the skin tissue suffers damage and the structure of the extracellular matrix (ECM) in the skin is disrupted. This eventually causes symptoms such as wrinkles loss of elasticity, skin sagging, and skin cancer. We previously found that hydrolysate extracted from pacific oyster (Crassostrea gigas) is effective in improving wrinkle formation. In this study, we selected a pentapeptide that was expected to have the most wrinkle reduction effect among the various peptides in oyster hydrolysate through preliminary in vitro screening and examined whether the pentapeptide derived from oyster hydrolysate (OHP) is effective in reducing wrinkles in vivo. We investigated the wrinkle-reducing effect of the OHP through 18-week SKH-1 hairless mice model. Our results showed that the OHP reduces wrinkles lengths, depths, and epidermal thickness which were increased by UVB radiation, and restores the amount of collagen. The OHP recovered the activity of antioxidant enzymes and regulated the expression of proinflammatory cytokines. We also found that OHP increases the expression of type I collagen through stimulating the TGFβ/Smad signaling pathway and inhibits the MMPs expression by regulating the MAPK/AP-1 signaling pathway. This study has shown that the OHP plays crucial roles in collagen production and wrinkle reduction in hairless mice and we proved the possibility of the OHP as a component for inhibiting wrinkle formation which was induced by photoaging.

Interleukin-1 alpha derived from ultraviolet B-exposed keratinocytes is associated with a decrease of endocytic collagen receptor Endo180

BACKGROUND

Endo180 contributes to the remodeling of the collagen fibers that comprise the dermal matrix due to the internalization of extracellular collagen fragments. In the sun-exposed elder skin, an accumulation of collagen fragments was observed in the dermal matrix which was associated with a reduction in Endo180 in the dermal fibroblasts. This suggests that the loss of Endo180 results in the accumulation of collagen fragments in the surrounding fibroblasts and causes interference with dermal matrix remodeling via collagen fibers. The purpose of the study was to identify a mechanism by which ultraviolet B (UVB) exposure induces a loss of Endo 180 with a specific focus on the crosstalk between keratinocytes and fibroblasts.

METHODS

Endo180 from normal human dermal fibroblasts, which were cultured with a conditioned medium (CM) of UVB-exposed keratinocytes, was examined using mRNA expression, protein levels and collagen internalization by quantitative RT-PCR, ELISA, and flow cytometry, respectively.

RESULTS

Although UVB irradiation to fibroblasts failed to reduce Endo180, the CM of UVB-exposed keratinocytes reduced Endo180 in the fibroblasts. Collagen internalization into the fibroblasts was decreased and was associated with a loss of Endo180. Among cytokines secreted from UVB-exposed keratinocytes, IL-1α solely reduced Endo180, and the reduction induced by the CM of UVB-exposed keratinocytes was abolished by the presence of IL-1RA.

CONCLUSIONS

These results indicate that a substance secreted from UVB-exposed keratinocytes regulates Endo180 expression and that IL-1α may play an important role in the maintenance of Endo180.

Inhibitory role of silk cocoon extract against elastase, hyaluronidase and UV radiation-induced matrix metalloproteinase expression in human dermal fibroblasts and keratinocytes

Topical delivery of potent antioxidants maintain the redox balance of the skin, which leads to the downregulation of matrix metalloproteinase (MMP) expression and prevents UV radiation-induced photoaging. In this study, we aimed at investigating the inhibitory role of silk cocoon extract (SCE) isolated from the Antheraea assamensis (AA), Bombyx mori (BM), and Philosamia ricini (PR) silk varieties against UV radiation-induced MMP expression. Incubation of elastase and hyaluronidase with Antheraea assamensis silk cocoon extract (AASCE) caused 50% inhibition of activity. The assessment of total collagen content using the Sirius red assay showed that AASCE (10 μg mL-1) and Philosamia ricini silk cocoon extract (PRSCE at 100 μg mL-1 concentration) post-treatment significantly enhanced the total collagen content in UVA1 and UVB irradiated HDF cells, whereas BM silk cocoon extract (BMSCE at 100 μg mL-1 concentration) post-treatment significantly enhanced the total collagen content in UVA1-irradiated HDF cells. Gene expression studies revealed AASCE and PRSCE post-treatment downregulated the expression of interleukin (IL)-6, MMP-1 and upregulated procollagen genes in UV irradiated HDF cells. Gelatin zymography studies with AASCE post-treatment downregulated the release of MMP-2 and MMP-9 by HaCaT cells. The overall results validate AASCE efficiently shielding UV radiation-induced collagen and elastin degradation by downregulation of MMP expression, substantiating its further use as a potent antioxidant complement in skin care formulations.

UVA and UVB radiation induce the formation of neutrophil extracellular traps by human polymorphonuclear cells

Prolonged exposure of the skin to ultraviolet radiation (UV) leads to its damage and loss of protective properties. This condition called photoaging of the skin is caused by a number of destructive factors, such as reactive oxygen species (ROS) and proteolytic enzymes that cause damage to the extracellular matrix, e.g. collagen fibers. Many cells of the immune system, including neutrophils, are involved in the photoaging process. The presence of neutrophils in the skin exposed to UV irradiation is known; however, the mechanism of neutrophil activity at these conditions remains unclear. In our study, we focused on the ability of neutrophils to release neutrophil extracellular traps (NETs) and the role of these structures in the photoaging process. NET release occurs in response to various stimuli; however, we hereby showed that the UVA and UVB radiation that reaches the Earth's surface could activate the mechanism of netosis. UV-induced netosis was much faster than that activated by chemical or biological factors; however, it also occurred due to the production of ROS, known signal mediators in netosis. In this work, we also identified the probable netosis signaling pathway involved in the neutrophil response to UV. The participation of NET components may explain the ongoing process of skin photoaging, but it is also important to indicate netosis as a potential target for skin protection therapy. Antioxidants tested in this work, such as N-acetylcysteine, ethamsylate, as well as vitamin B1 (thiamine), can successfully inhibit UV-induced netosis, and thus be used as protective components against the negative effects of solar radiation.

Skin Rejuvenation through HIF-1α Modulation

The constant intrinsic and extrinsic stress the skin is exposed to leads to significant impairments of the regenerative capacity of aging skin. Current skin rejuvenation approaches lack the ability to holistically support the biological processes that exhaust during aging skin degeneration, such as collagen production, cell migration and proliferation, and new vessel formation. Similar to chronic wounds, aged skin is characterized by dysfunction of key cellular regulatory pathways impairing regeneration. Recent evidence suggests that the same mechanisms hindering a physiologic healing response in chronic wounds are the basis of impaired tissue homeostasis in aged skin. Dysfunction of a main response-to-injury pathway, the hypoxia-inducible factor (HIF)-1α regulatory pathway, has been identified as pivotal both in chronic wounds and in aging skin degeneration. HIF-1α signaling is significantly involved in tissue homeostasis and neovascularization, resulting in the production of new collagen, elastin, and nourishing blood vessels. Modulating the functionality of this pathway has been demonstrated to significantly enhance tissue regeneration. In this review, we present an overview of the regenerative effects linked to the up-regulation of HIF-1α functionality, potentially resulting in skin rejuvenation on both the cellular level and the tissue level.

Suppression of Ultraviolet B-mediated Matrix Metalloproteinase Generation by Sorbus commixta Twig Extract in Human Dermal Fibroblasts

Sorbus commixta is a traditional oriental medicinal plant that grows in East Asian countries such as Korea, Japan and China. The twig of S. commixta has been considered valuable for centuries to treat diseases including asthma, cough and other bronchial disorders. However, the effect of S. commixta twig extract on human skin has not been investigated well. The present study aimed at assessing the antiphotoaging effect of S. commixta twig ethanol extract (STE) on ultraviolet B (UVB)-induced matrix metalloproteinase (MMP) levels and its underlying mechanism in human dermal fibroblasts. In this study, we found that STE (12.5-50 μg mL^-1 ) treatment significantly inhibited UVB-induced MMP-1, MMP-2 and MMP-3 expression, concomitant with a downregulation of intracellular ROS generation. These effects might be associated with a STE-induced inhibition of the mitogen-activated protein kinase (MAPK) pathway. Furthermore, STE also downregulated UVB-induced c-Fos expression in a concentration-dependent manner, but had no inhibitory effect on c-Jun phosphorylation. Taken together, these results indicate that STE may be an antiphotoaging agent and that its effect may occur via its inhibition of MMPs expression and MAPK pathway activation.

Impact of Ultraviolet Radiation on Expression of Transforming Growth Factor β, Smad2, Metalloproteinases-1, -3, -8, -9, Cathepsin K and Progerin

Ultraviolet radiation (UVR) is one of the most important environmental factors involved in photoaging. Exposure to UVR leads to dysregulation of expression of cell cycle-related proteins which play key role in skin photodegradation that pretends to develop carcinogenesis. This study examines the role of various UVB doses on the expression of transforming growth factor beta (TGF-β), Smad2, cathepsin K, progerin and matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs)-1,-3,-8,-9. A group consisting of 63 healthy individuals underwent one of the following treatments: (1) whole body exposed to UVB irradiation on each of 10 consecutive days with 0.7 MED, or (2) whole-body irradiation as described followed by a single erythemal UVB dose on a small body area, or (3) irradiated only with a single erythemal UVB dose on small body area, or (4) were not irradiated at all (control group). When we compared all irradiated groups to the control group, there was significantly higher expression of TGF-β, MMP-1,-3,-9 and cathepsin K proteins evaluated by Western blot method. The results suggest the role of UVB in impairment of proteins expression that is involved in cell cycle's regulation. Changes in the protein expression involved by acute and chronic UVR confirm its essential role in skin photodestruction. Moreover, obtained result indicates the tendency to occurrence of photoadaptation phenomenon.

Rhodiola crenulata Attenuates γ-Ray Induced Cellular Injury via Modulation of Oxidative Stress in Human Skin Cells

Skin injury is a major complication during radiation therapy and is associated with oxidative damage to skin cells. An effective and safe radioprotectant to prevent this skin damage is still unavailable. The Rhodiola crenulata root extract (RCE) has been reported to be a free radical scavenger and a potent anti-oxidant in both in vitro and in vivo models. In the current study, we investigated the effects of RCE on ionizing radiation-induced skin injury and its underlying mechanisms. HaCaT cells - a non-cancerous skin cell line together with HepG2, Caco2, A549, and OECM cancer cell lines - were pre-treated with RCE for 24[Formula: see text]h followed by exposure to 15 Gy using Caesium-137 as a γ-ray source. The cell viability was measured. In HaCaT cells, oxidative stress markers, cellular apoptosis pathways, matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs), and pro-inflammatory cytokine gene expression were studied. We found that RCE significantly protected HaCaT cells, but not cancer cells from the loss of viability induced by exposure to ionizing radiation. RCE attenuated radiation-induced oxidative stress markers, cell apoptosis, MMP levels, and expression of cytokine genes. RCE also limited the induction of p53 and p21 by radiation exposure. These findings indicate that RCE may selectively protect the skin cells from ionizing radiation without altering its ability to kill cancer cells. Therefore, we suggest that RCE or its derivatives could serve as a novel radioprotective therapy.

Protective effects of compounds from Garcinia mangostana L. (mangosteen) against UVB damage in HaCaT cells and hairless mice

Ultraviolet B (UVB) radiation causes alterations in the skin, such as epidermal thickening, wrinkle formation and inflammation. Therefore, preventing UVB-induced skin damage can promote general health among the human population. Garcinia mangostana L. (mangosteen) is a fruit that has become a popular botanical dietary supplement because of its perceived role in promoting overall health. The present study investigated the photoprotective effects of α-, β-, γ-mangostins and gartanin against UVB radiation using the HaCaT immortalized human keratinocyte cell line as an in vitro model and hairless mice as an in vivo model. UVB radiation increased the expression of matrix metalloproteinase (MMP)‑1 and ‑9 and decreased the mRNA expression levels of involucrin, filaggrin and loricrin in HaCaT cells; however, these changes were attenuated by pretreating the cells with α-, β-, γ-mangostins and gartanin. Among these compounds, α-mangostin exhibited the greatest effects in reducing UVB-induced skin wrinkles, inhibited epidermal thickening in hairless mice in vivo. Exposure to UVB radiation increased the expression of MMPs and pro-inflammatory cytokines and activated mitogen-activated protein kinases in hairless mice, but these changes were attenuated by α-mangostin. The authors suggested that α-mangostin exerts anti-wrinkle and anti-aging properties.

Anti-Melanogenic Effect of Oenothera laciniata Methanol Extract in Melan-a Cells

We evaluated the antioxidant activity and anti-melanogenic effects of Oenothera laciniata methanol extract (OLME) in vitro by using melan-a cells. The total polyphenol and flavonoid content of OLME was 66.3 and 19.0 mg/g, respectively. The electron-donating ability, 2,2′-azino-bis(3-ethylbenzothiazoline-6-sulfonic acid) (ABTS) radical-scavenging activity, and superoxide dismutase (SOD)-like activity of OLME (500 μg/mL) were 94.5%, 95.6%, and 63.6%, respectively. OLME and arbutin treatment at 50 μg/mL significantly decreased melanin content by 35.5% and 14.2%, respectively, compared to control (p < 0.05). OLME and arbutin treatment at 50 μg/mL significantly inhibited intra-cellular tyrosinase activity by 22.6% and 12.6%, respectively, compared to control (p < 0.05). OLME (50 μg/mL) significantly decreased tyrosinase, tyrosinase-related protein-1 (TRP-1), TRP-2, and microphthalmia-associated transcription factor-M (MITF-M) mRNA expression by 57.1%, 67.3%, 99.0%, and 77.0%, respectively, compared to control (p < 0.05). Arbutin (50 μg/mL) significantly decreased tyrosinase, TRP-1, and TRP-2 mRNA expression by 24.2%, 42.9%, and 48.5%, respectively, compared to control (p < 0.05). However, arbutin (50 μg/mL) did not affect MITF-M mRNA expression. Taken together, OLME showed a good antioxidant activity and anti-melanogenic effect in melan-a cells that was superior to that of arbutin, a well-known skin-whitening agent. The potential mechanism underlying the anti-melanogenic effect of OLME was inhibition of tyrosinase activity and down-regulation of tyrosinase, TRP-1, TRP-2, and MITF-M mRNA expression.

Triolein reduces MMP-1 upregulation in dermal fibroblasts generated by ROS production in UVB-irradiated keratinocytes

BACKGROUND

Cytokine production and oxidative stress generated by ultraviolet radiation B (UVB) skin exposure are main factors of skin photoaging. Interleukin-6 (IL-6) produced by irradiated keratinocytes is proposed to have a role in metalloproteinases (MMPs) expression activation in dermal fibroblasts.

OBJECTIVES

We examined the effect of triolein treatment of UVB-irradiated keratinocytes on MMP1 (interstitial collagenase) expression response of dermal fibroblasts. We assayed UVB-irradiated keratinocytes soluble signals, mainly IL-6 and reactive oxygen species (ROS).

METHODS

IL-6 expression and ROS generation were assayed in UVB-irradiated keratinocytes. MMP1 mRNA expression response was assayed in fibroblasts grown in keratinocytes conditioned medium. We evaluated the effect of treating keratinocytes with triolein on IL-6 expression and ROS generation in keratinocytes, and MMP1 expression in fibroblasts.

RESULTS

The irradiation of epidermal cells with sublethal UVB doses increased IL-6 expression and ROS generation. Conditioned culture medium collected from keratinocytes was used to culture dermal fibroblasts. MMP1 mRNA expression increase was observed in fibroblasts cultured in medium collected from UVB-irradiated keratinocytes. Triolein treatment reduced the IL-6 expression and ROS generation in keratinocytes and this effect was reflected in downregulation of MMP1 expression in fibroblasts.

CONCLUSIONS

Triolein reduces both the expression of IL-6 and ROS generation in irradiated keratinocytes. It seems to exert an anti-inflammatory and anti-oxidative stress effect on irradiated keratinocytes that in turn reduces MMP1 expression in dermal fibroblasts. Collectively, these results indicate that triolein could act as a photoprotective agent.

Anti-wrinkle effects of Sargassum muticum ethyl acetate fraction on ultraviolet B-irradiated hairless mouse skin and mechanistic evaluation in the human HaCaT keratinocyte cell line

The present study investigated the photoprotective properties of the ethyl acetate fraction of Sargassum muticum (SME) against ultraviolet B (UVB)‑induced skin damage and photoaging in a mouse model. HR‑1 strain hairless male mice were divided into three groups: An untreated control group, a UVB‑irradiated vehicle group and a UVB‑irradiated SME group. The UVB‑irradiated mice in the SME group were orally administered with SME (100 mg/kg body weight in 0.1 ml water per day) and then exposed to radiation at a dose of 60‑120 mJ/cm2. Wrinkle formation and skin damage were evaluated by analysis of skin replicas, epidermal thickness and collagen fiber integrity in the dermal connective tissue. The mechanism underlying the action of SME was also investigated in the human HaCaT keratinocyte cell line following exposure of the cells to UVB at a dose of 30 mJ/cm2. The protein expression levels and activity of matrix metalloproteinase‑1 (MMP‑1), and the binding of activator protein‑1 (AP‑1) to the MMP‑1 promoter were assessed in the HaCaT cells using western blot analysis, an MMP‑1 fluorescent assay and a chromatin immune‑precipitation assay, respectively. The results showed that the mean length and depth of the wrinkles in the UVB‑exposed hairless mice were significantly improved by oral administration of SME, which also prevented the increase in epidermal thickness triggered by UVB irradiation. Furthermore, a marked increase in collagen bundle formation was observed in the UVB‑treated mice with SME administration. SME pretreatment also significantly inhibited the UVB‑induced upregulation in the expression and activity of MMP‑1 in the cultured HaCaT keratinocytes, and the UVB‑enhanced association of AP‑1 with the MMP‑1 promoter. These results suggested that SME may be useful as an anti-photoaging resource for the skin.

Protective and therapeutic effects of fucoxanthin against sunburn caused by UV irradiation

Mild exposure to ultraviolet (UV) radiation is also harmful and hazardous to the skin and often causes a photosensitivity disorder accompanied by sunburn. To understand the action of UV on the skin we performed a microarray analysis to isolate UV-sensitive genes. We show here that UV irradiation promoted sunburn and downregulated filaggrin (Flg); fucoxanthin (FX) exerted a protective effect. In vitro analysis showed that UV irradiation of human dermal fibroblasts caused production of intracellular reactive oxygen species (ROS) without cellular toxicity. ROS production was diminished by N-acetylcysteine (NAC) or FX, but not by retinoic acid (RA). In vivo analysis showed that UV irradiation caused sunburn and Flg downregulation, and that FX, but not NAC, RA or clobetasol, exerted a protective effect. FX stimulated Flg promoter activity in a concentration-dependent manner. Flg promoter deletion and chromatin immunoprecipitation analysis showed that caudal type homeo box transcription factor 1 (Cdx1) was a key factor for Flg induction. Cdx1 was also downregulated in UV-exposed skin. Therefore, our data suggested that the protective effects of FX against UV-induced sunburn might be exerted by promotion of skin barrier formation through induction of Flg, unrelated to quenching of ROS or an RA-like action.

Bioactive properties and potentials cosmeceutical applications of phlorotannins isolated from brown seaweeds: A review

Currently, natural ingredients are becoming more attractive for the industries such as functional food, nutraceuticals, cosmeceutical and pharmaceutical industries as people starting to believe naturally occurring compounds are safer to humans than artificial compounds. Seaweeds are one of the most interesting organisms found in oceans around the earth, which are carrying great ecological importance and contribute to increase the biodiversity of ecosystems where they were originated and habitat. Within last few decades, discovery of secondary metabolites with biological activities from seaweeds has been significantly increased. Further, the unique secondary metabolites isolated from seaweeds including polysaccharides, carotenoids and polyphenols possess range of bioactive properties that make them potential ingredient for many industrial applications. Among those groups of compounds phlorotannins isolated from brown seaweeds have shown interesting bioactive properties including anti-cancer, anti-inflammation, anti-oxidant, anti-allergic, anti-wrinkling and hair growth promotion properties. Moreover, these properties associated with phlorotannins make them an ideal compounds to use as a functional ingredient in cosmeceutical products. Up to now no report has been reviewed about discuss properties of phlorotannins related to the cosmeceutical application. In the present review primary attention is given to the collect scientific data published about bioactive properties of brown algal phlorotannins related to the cosmeceutical industry.

A randomized, placebo-controlled, single-blinded, split-faced clinical trial evaluating the efficacy and safety of KLOX-001 gel formulation with KLOX light-emitting diode light on facial rejuvenation

Purpose

Many treatment modalities exist to counteract the effects of cutaneous aging. Ablative methods have been the mainstay for nonsurgical facial rejuvenation. In recent years, nonablative techniques have been developed with the aim of achieving facial rejuvenation without epidermal damage. Light-emitting diode (LED) photorejuvenation is a novel nonablative technique that induces collagen synthesis through biophotomodulatory pathways.

Materials and methods

A single-center, randomized, single-blinded, placebo-controlled, split-faced clinical trial was designed. Thirty-two patients were enrolled for a 12-week study. Patients were randomized into one of four groups: Group A, treatment with KLOX-001 gel formulation and white LED (placebo) light; Group B, treatment with a placebo/base gel (no active chromophore) formulation and KLOX LED light; Group C, treatment with KLOX-001 gel formulation and KLOX LED light; and Group D, treatment with the standard skin rejuvenating treatment (0.1% retinol-based cream). Patients received treatment at weeks 0, 1, 2, and 3, and returned to the clinic at weeks 4, 8, and 12 for clinical assessments performed by an independent, blinded committee of physicians using subjective clinician assessment scales. Tolerability, adverse outcomes, and patient satisfaction were also assessed.

Results

Analysis demonstrated that the KLOX LED light with KLOX placebo/base gel and the KLOX LED light + KLOX-001 gel formulation groups were superior to standard of care and KLOX-001 gel formulation with placebo light on subjective clinical assessment and multiple wrinkle scales, with statistically significant results obtained for brow positioning, perioral wrinkling, and total wrinkle score.

Conclusion

The study results show that KLOX LED light with KLOX-001 gel formulation and KLOX LED light with KLOX placebo/base gel are effective, safe, well-tolerated, and painless treatment modalities for skin rejuvenation.

Antioxidant Activity and Anti-wrinkle Effects of Aceriphyllum rossii Leaf Ethanol Extract

We evaluated the antioxidant activity and anti-wrinkle effects of Aceriphyllum rossii leaf ethanol extract (ARLEE) in vitro using human dermal fibroblasts. The total polyphenol and flavonoid contents of ARLEE were 578.6 and 206.3 mg/g, respectively. At a concentration of 250 μg/mL, the electron-donating ability of ARLEE was 87.1%. In comparison with the vehicle, ARLEE treatment at 100 μg/mL significantly increased type I procollagen synthesis (p < 0.01) by 50.7%. In vitro ARLEE treatment (10 mg/mL) inhibited collagenase and elastase activity by 97.1% and 99.2%, respectively. Compared with the control, ascorbic acid treatment at 100 μg/mL significantly decreased matrix metalloproteinase (MMP)-1 protein expression (p < 0.01) by 37.0%. ARLEE treatment at 50 μg/mL significantly decreased MMP-1 protein expression (p < 0.01) by 46.1%. Ascorbic acid and ARLEE treatments at 100 μg/mL significantly decreased MMP-1 mRNA expression (p < 0.01) by 26.1% and 36.1%, respectively. From these results, we conclude that ARLEE has excellent antioxidant activity and even better anti-wrinkle effects than ascorbic acid in human dermal fibroblasts. These results suggest that ARLEE could be used in functional cosmetics for the prevention or alleviation of skin wrinkles induced by ultraviolet rays.

Extraction conditions of white rose petals for the inhibition of enzymes related to skin aging

In order to assess inhibitory potentials of white rose petal extracts (WRPE) on the activities of enzymes related to dermal aging according to the extraction conditions, three extraction methods were adopted. WRPE was prepared by extracting dried white rose (Rosa hybrida) petals with 50% ethanol (WRPE-EtOH), Pectinex® SMASH XXL enzyme (WRPE-enzyme) or high temperature-high pressure (WRPE-HTHP). In the inhibition of matrix metalloproteinase-1, although the enzyme activity was fully inhibited by all 3 extracts at 100 µg/mL in 60 min, partial inhibition (50-70%) was achieved only by WRPE-EtOH and WRPE-enzyme at 50 µg/mL. High concentrations (≥250 µg/mL) of all 3 extracts markedly inhibited the elastase activity. However, at low concentrations (15.6-125 µg/mL), only WRPE-EtOH inhibited the enzyme activity. Notably, WRPE-EtOH was superior to WRPE-enzyme and WRPE-HTHP in the inhibition of tyrosinase. WRPE-EtOH significantly inhibited the enzyme activity from 31.2 µM, reaching 80% inhibition at 125 µM. In addition to its strong antioxidative activity, the ethanol extract of white rose petals was confirmed to be effective in inhibiting skin aging-related enzymes. Therefore, it is suggested that WRPE-EtOH could be a good candidate for the improvement of skin aging such as wrinkle formation and pigmentation.

Protective Effect of Super-Critical Carbon Dioxide Fluid Extract from Flowers and Buds of Chrysanthemum indicum Linnén Against Ultraviolet-Induced Photo-Aging in Mice

It is known that solar ultraviolet (UV) radiation to human skin causes photo-aging, including increases in skin thickness and wrinkle formation and reduction in skin elasticity. UV radiation induces damage to skin mainly by superfluous reactive oxygen species and chronic low-grade inflammation, which eventually up-regulate the expression of matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs). In this study, the super-critical carbon dioxide extract from flowers and buds of Chrysanthemum indicum Linnén (CISCFE), which has been reported to possess free radical scavenging and anti-inflammatory properties, was investigated for its photo-protective effect by topical application on the skin of mice. Moreover, CISCFE effectively suppressed the UV-induced increase in skin thickness and wrinkle grading in a dose-dependent manner, which was correlated with the inhibition of loss of collagen fiber content and epidermal thickening. Furthermore, we observed that CISCFE could obviously decrease UV-induced skin inflammation by inhibiting the production of inflammatory cytokines (interleukin-1β [IL-1β, IL-6, IL-10, tumor necrosis factor-α), alleviate the abnormal changes of anti-oxidative indicators (superoxide dismutase, catalase, and glutathione peroxidase), and down-regulate the levels of MMP-1 and MMP-3. The results indicated that CISCFE was a novel photo-protective agent from natural resources against UV irradiation.

Salidroside protects against premature senescence induced by ultraviolet B irradiation in human dermal fibroblasts

OBJECTIVES

Salidroside, the predominant component of a Chinese herbal medicine, Rhodiola rosea L., becomes an attractive bio-agent due to its multifunction. Although it is well proposed that this herbal medicine may have photoprotective effect according to the folk hearsay, the direct supportive experimental evidences linking the drug with skin ageing have rarely been reported so far. The study was conducted to investigate the photoprotective role of salidrosdie and its related mechanisms in vitro.

METHODS

First, a premature senescence model induced by UVB irradiation (250 mJ cm(-2)) in human dermal fibroblasts (HDFs) was established, and senescent phenotypes were evaluated by cell morphology, cell proliferation, senescence-associated beta-galactosidase (SA-β-gal) activity and cell cycle distribution. Then the photoprotective effect of salidroside was investigated. Cells were pre-treated with various doses of salidroside (1, 5 and 10 μM) followed by the sublethal dosage of UVB exposure and then were harvested for various detections, including senescence-associated phenotypes and molecules, alteration of oxidative stress, matrix metalloproteinase-1 (MMP-1) secretion and inflammatory response.

RESULTS

Pre-treatment of salidroside dose dependently reversed the senescent state of HDFs induced by UVB as evidenced by elevated cell viability, decreased SA-β-gal activity and relieving of G1/G0 cell cycle arrest. UVB-induced increased protein expression of cyclin-dependent kinase (CDK) inhibitors p21(WAF) (1) and p16(INK) (4) was also repressed by salidrosdie treatment in a dose-dependent manner. Meanwhile, the increment of malondialdehyde (MDA) level in UVB-irradiated HDFs was inhibited upon salidroside treatment. Additionally, salidroside significantly attenuated UVB-induced synthesis of MMP-1 as well as the production of IL-6 and TNF-α in HDFs.

CONCLUSION

Our data provided the evidences for the protective role of salidroside against UVB-induced premature senescence in HDFs probably via its anti-oxidative property and inhibition on production of MMP-1 and pro-inflammatory cytokines, which indicated its potential utilization as an active ingredient in the preparation of photoprotective formulation.

Magnolol reduces UVB-induced photodamage by regulating matrix metalloproteinase activity

In this study, we evaluated the anti-photoaging activity of magnolol in UV-irradiated hairless mice, and hypothesized that magnolol would prevent photoaging in these animals. The inhibitory effect of magnolol on wrinkle formation was determined by analyzing the skin replica, histologically examining the epidermal thickness, and identifying damage to the collagen fibers. The protective effects of magnolol on UVB-induced skin photoaging were examined by determining the level of MMPs and mitogen-activated protein kinases (MAPKs). Exposure to UVB radiation significantly increased skin thickness and wrinkle grade, but magnolol treatment significantly reduced the average length and depth of wrinkles, and this was correlated with the inhibition of collagen fiber loss. The magnolol-treated group had remarkably decreased activity levels of MMP-1, -9, and -13 compared to the corresponding levels in the vehicle-treated UVB-irradiated group. These results indicate that magnolol prevents skin photoaging in UVB-irradiated hairless mice.

The protective effect of 18β-Glycyrrhetinic acid against UV irradiation induced photoaging in mice

It has been confirmed that repeated exposure of skin to ultraviolet (UV) radiation results in cutaneous oxidative stress and inflammation, which act in concert to cause premature skin aging, well known as photoaging. 18β-Glycyrrhetinic acid (GA), widely used to treat various tissue inflammations, is the main active component of licorice root, and has also been shown to possess favorable anti-oxidative property and modulating immunity function. In the present study, we investigated the potential protective effect of GA on UV-induced skin photoaging in a mouse model. During the experimental period of ten consecutive weeks, the dorsal depilated skin of mice was treated with topical GA for 2 hours prior to UV irradiation. The results showed that GA pretreatment significantly alleviated the macroscopic and histopathological damages in mice skin caused by UV. Meanwhile, the data also indicated that GA markedly up-regulated the activities of the antioxidant enzymes (SOD, GSH-Px), and increased the content of skin collagen, while obviously decreased malonaldehyde level and inhibited high expressions of matrix metalloproteinase-1 (MMP-1) and -3 (MMP-3), as well as down-regulated the expression of inflammatory cytokines such as IL-6, TNF-α and IL-10. Taken together, these findings amply demonstrate that GA observably attenuates UV-induced skin photoaging mainly by virtue of its antioxidative and anti-inflammatory properties, as well as regulating the abnormal expression of MMP-1 and MMP-3.

The stimulatory effects of alpha1-adrenergic receptors on TGF-beta1, IGF-1 and hyaluronan production in human skin fibroblasts

Skin fibroblasts modulate tissue repair, wound healing and immunological responses. Adrenergic receptors (ARs) mediate important physiological functions, such as endocrine, metabolic and neuronal activity. In this study, the expression α1A-ARs in human skin fibroblasts is examined and verified. Regulatory effects of α1-agonist cirazoline on cell migration and the production of transforming growth factor β1 (TGF-β1), insulin-like growth factor 1 (IGF-1), hyaluronan (HA), fibronectin and procollagen type I carboxy-terminal peptide (PIP) by human skin fibroblasts are assessed and validated. α1A-AR mRNA and protein were found in human skin fibroblasts WS1. Exposure of cirazoline doubled skin fibroblast migration and the increase in cell migration was attenuated by α1-antagonist prazosin. TGF-β1 mRNA and production were enhanced after exposure to cirazoline and IGF-1 production was also increased after treatment with cirazoline. Exposure to cirazoline also enhanced HA and PIP production. The increases in TGF-β1, IGF-1, HA and PIP production were partially abolished in fibroblasts transfected with α1A-AR short interfering RNAs, indicating that α1A-ARs are involved in the cirazoline-induced increases in TGF-β1, IGF-1, HA and PIP production. Thus, α1A-ARs are stably expressed and stimulate cell migration and TGF-β1, IGF-1, HA and PIP production in human skin fibroblasts. Moreover, TGF-β1, IGF-1, HA and PIP production and the cell migration of human skin fibroblasts are possibly modulated by natural catecholamines produced by the endocrine system or sympathetic innervation, which could directly or indirectly participate in cytokine secretion, fibroblast migration and matrix production of wound healing in the skin.

EGb-761 prevents ultraviolet B-induced photoaging via inactivation of mitogen-activated protein kinases and proinflammatory cytokine expression

BACKGROUND

EGb-761 is an antioxidant and anticarcinogen; however, its role as a photoprotector remains unknown.

OBJECTIVE

To determine whether EGb-761 photoprotects human dermal fibroblasts and BALB/c mice skin against ultraviolet B (UVB) light irradiation.

METHODS

To simulate chronic photodamage, shaved BALB/c mice were exposed to UVB irradiation (90mJ/cm(2)) thrice weekly for 3 months. EGb-761 (2mg/cm(2)) was topically applied 1h before irradiation to evaluate its effect. The mechanisms by which EGb-761 protects the skin from photodamage were evaluated by immunohistochemical analysis, enzyme-linked immunosorbent assay (ELISA), and Western blotting.

RESULTS

In BALB/c mice, the signs of photoaging or photodamage, such as coarse wrinkle formation, epidermal hyperplasia, and elastic fiber degeneration, markedly reduced with the topical application of EGb-761. Western blot and ELISA revealed that the activation of MMP-1 in cultured fibroblasts markedly diminished after pretreatment with EGb-761. In addition, EGb-761 inhibited UVB-induced overexpression by the fibroblasts of the proinflammatory cytokines, such as interleukin (IL)-1α, IL-1β, IL-6, and tumor necrosis factor-α. The phosphorylation of the mitogen-activated protein kinase (MAPK) signal transduction pathway components, including extracellular signal-regulated kinase, C-Jun N-terminal kinase, and p38, which are induced by UV irradiation, was significantly inhibited in vivo and in vitro. EGb-761 also diminished the generation of UVB-induced reactive oxygen species (ROS).

CONCLUSIONS

EGb-761 photoprotects mice and cultured fibroblasts, inhibits the UVB-induced phosphorylation of MAPK pathway components, and reduces the expression of the proinflammatory cytokines by suppressing ROS generation. Thus, topically applied EGb-761 may be a promising photoprotective agent.

Elevated cysteine-rich protein 61 (CCN1) promotes skin aging via upregulation of IL-1β in chronically sun-exposed human skin

Chronic exposure of human skin to solar ultraviolet (UV) irradiation causes premature skin aging, which is characterized by reduced type I collagen production and increased fragmentation of the dermal collagenous extracellular matrix. This imbalance of collagen homeostasis is mediated, in part, by elevated expression of the matricellular protein cysteine-rich protein 61 (CCN1), in dermal fibroblasts, the primary collagen producing cell type in human skin. Here, we report that the actions of CCN1 are mediated by induction of interleukin 1β (IL-1β). CCN1 and IL-1β are strikingly induced by acute UV irradiation, and constitutively elevated in sun-exposed prematurely aged human skin. Elevated CCN1 rapidly induces IL-1β, inhibits type I collagen production, and upregulates matrix metalloproteinase-1, which degrades collagen fibrils. Blockade of IL-1β actions by IL-1 receptor antagonist largely prevents the deleterious effects of CCN1 on collagen homeostasis. Furthermore, knockdown of CCN1 significantly reduces induction of IL-1β by UV irradiation, and thereby partially prevents collagen loss. These data demonstrate that elevated CCN1promotes inflammaging and collagen loss via induction of IL-1β and thereby contributes to the pathophysiology of premature aging in chronically sun-exposed human skin.