Red- and Near-Infrared-Excited Autofluorescence as a Marker for Acute Oxidative Stress in Skin Exposed to Cigarette Smoke Ex Vivo and In Vivo

Air pollution is increasing worldwide and skin is exposed to high levels of pollution daily, causing oxidative stress and other negative consequences. The methods used to determine oxidative stress in the skin are invasive and non-invasive label-free in vivo methods, which are severely limited. Here, a non-invasive and label-free method to determine the effect of cigarette smoke (CS) exposure on skin ex vivo (porcine) and in vivo (human) was established. The method is based on the measurement of significant CS-exposure-induced enhancement in red- and near-infrared (NIR)-excited autofluorescence (AF) intensities in the skin. To understand the origin of red- and NIR-excited skin AF, the skin was exposed to several doses of CS in a smoking chamber. UVA irradiation was used as a positive control of oxidative stress in the skin. The skin was measured with confocal Raman microspectroscopy before CS exposure, immediately after CS exposure, and after skin cleaning. CS exposure significantly increased the intensity of red- and NIR-excited skin AF in a dose-dependent manner in the epidermis, as confirmed by laser scanning microscopy AF imaging and fluorescence spectroscopy measurements. UVA irradiation enhanced the intensity of AF, but to a lower extent than CS exposure. We concluded that the increase in red- and NIR-excited AF intensities of the skin after CS exposure could clearly be related to the induction of oxidative stress in skin, where skin surface lipids are mainly oxidized.

Establishment of a method to expose and measure pollution in excised porcine skin with electron paramagnetic resonance spectroscopy

Health problems associated with the amount of air pollutants are increasing worldwide. Pollution damages not only the lungs; it also has an impact on skin health and is co-responsible for the development of skin diseases. Anti-pollution products are on the rise in the cosmetic market but so far, there is no established method to directly assess the impact of pollution on the skin and to test the efficacy of anti-pollution products. To address this problem, two different chambers were developed for the reproducible exposure to realistic air pollutant concentrations. One chamber for the exclusive use of excised skin and hair samples, the second chamber for ex vivo and in vivo measurements. Measurements of nicotine next to the investigated skin area allow conclusions to be drawn on the particle concentration to which the skin is exposed. Electron paramagnetic resonance spectroscopy, which enables the detection of free radicals in different systems, was applied to assess the hazard potential of pollution in the skin. A direct proof of the formation of free radicals in the skin by the model pollutant cigarette smoke could be demonstrated. An additional application of UV irradiation even increased the formation of free radicals in the skin seven-fold (sum parameter). Depending on the question of interest, the use of different spin probes allows various assessments of the radical formation in skin: the amount of radicals but also the antioxidant status of the microenvironment can be estimated. Using two exposure chambers, the direct formation of oxidative stress by cigarette smoke on ex vivo skin, with and without additional UV exposure, could be reproducibly examined. This measurement method is promising for the assessment of anti-pollution products and could allow a direct causal connection between pollutant, effect on the skin and the protective function of skin care products.

Carotenoids in Human SkinIn Vivo: Antioxidant and Photo-Protectant Role against External and Internal Stressors

The antioxidant system of the human body plays a crucial role in maintaining redox homeostasis and has an important protective function. Carotenoids have pronounced antioxidant properties in the neutralization of free radicals. In human skin, carotenoids have a high concentration in the stratum corneum (SC)-the horny outermost layer of the epidermis, where they accumulate within lipid lamellae. Resonance Raman spectroscopy and diffuse reflectance spectroscopy are optical methods that are used to non-invasively determine the carotenoid concentration in the human SC in vivo. It was shown by electron paramagnetic resonance spectroscopy that carotenoids support the entire antioxidant status of the human SC in vivo by neutralizing free radicals and thus, counteracting the development of oxidative stress. This review is devoted to assembling the kinetics of the carotenoids in the human SC in vivo using non-invasive optical and spectroscopic methods. Factors contributing to the changes of the carotenoid concentration in the human SC and their influence on the antioxidant status of the SC in vivo are summarized. The effect of chemotherapy on the carotenoid concentration of the SC in cancer patients is presented. A potential antioxidant-based pathomechanism of chemotherapy-induced hand-foot syndrome and a method to reduce its frequency and severity are discussed.

Wavelength, dose, skin type and skin model related radical formation in skin

The exposure to sun radiation is indispensable to our health; however, a long-term and high exposure could lead to cell damage, erythema, premature skin aging, and promotion of skin tumors. An underlying pathomechanism is the formation of free radicals which may induce oxidative stress at elevated concentrations. Different skin models, such as porcine-, murine-, human- ex vivo skin, reconstructed human skin (RHS) and human skin in vivo, were investigated during and after irradiation using X- and L-band EPR spectroscopy within different spectral regions (UVC to NIR). The amount of radical formation was quantified with the spin probe PCA and the radical types were measured ex vivo with the spin trap DMPO. The radiation dose influences the types of radicals formed in the skin. While reactive oxygen species (ROS) are always pronounced at low doses, there is an increase in lipid oxygen species (LOS) at high doses. Furthermore, the radical types arise independent from the irradiation wavelength, whereas the general amount of radical formation differs with the irradiation wavelength. Heat pre-stressed porcine skin already starts with higher LOS values. Thus, the radical type ratio might be an indicator of stress and the reversal of ROS/LOS constitutes the point where positive stress turns into negative stress.Compared to light skin types, darker types produce less radicals in the ultraviolet, similar amounts in the visible and higher ones in the infrared spectral region, rendering skin type-specific sun protection a necessity.

Switching from healthy to unhealthy oxidative stress - does the radical type can be used as an indicator?

Ultraviolet (UV) radiation leads to the formation of free radicals, which may cause immunological modulations, skin aging or skin cancer. Sunlight exposure in the UVA region according to CIE 85 promotes almost 46% of radical formation in skin. A critical radical concentration characterized by the inversion of the domination of primary ROS (reactive oxygen species) to an excess of secondary LOS (lipid oxygen species) is proven for the spectral regions UV and or VIS light and is intended to be a marker for an imbalance in the redox system, which can no longer compensate harmful effects. To investigate whether this transition point is also universally valid for one spectral region, the radical formation during and after targeted UVA in situ-irradiation at 365 ± 5 nm and three different irradiances (31, 94 and 244 mW/cm²) was investigated in ex vivo porcine skin using x-band electron paramagnetic resonance (EPR) spectroscopy. The quantification was performed with the spin probe 3-(carboxy)-2,2,5,5-tetramethylpyrrolidin-1-oxyl (PCA), the spin trap 5,5-Dimethyl-1-Pyrroline-N-Oxide (DMPO) was used to characterize the radical species. Furthermore, the viability of the skin cells after irradiation was controlled by an MTT [3-(4,5-dimethylthiazol-2-yl)-2,5-diphenyltetrazolium bromide] assay, skin integrity was examined by histological analysis. A significant dose dependence in the radical formation is given at higher irradiance. The transition point was detected in the range of 0.5 MED after irradiation with the highest irradiance. From this point on the proportion of LOS increases with increasing dose and the proportion of ROS decreases. After switching off the UVA irradiation no further quantitative changes were detected, but rapid changes in the radical pattern were observed demonstrating the importance of in situ irradiation during the use of spin traps. Heat-pre-stressed skin showed more LOS than ROS already at the beginning of the irradiation, leading to the assumption that the transition point to the distress-level has already been reached. In summary, a postulated transition point could be verified for the UVA spectral region using only one spin trap combined with in-situ irradiation. A certain degree of stress is necessary to detect an inversion of the ratio of ROS to LOS. This reversal indicates an imbalance in the redox status. However, at low intensities no changes at all in radical pattern appeared over time (dose), probably it can be compensated by adaptation processes of the skin.

Quantification and characterization of radical production in human, animal and 3D skin models during sun irradiation measured by EPR spectroscopy

Sun radiation is indispensable to our health, however, a long term and high exposure could lead to erythema, premature skin aging and promotion of skin tumors. An underlying pathomechanism is the formation of free radicals. First, reactive oxygen species (*OH, *O₂^-) and then, secondary lipid oxygen species (C centered radicals, CCR) are formed. A high amount of free radicals results in oxidative stress with subsequent cell damage. In dermatological research different skin models are used, however, comparative data about the cutaneous radical formation are missing. In this study, the radical formation in porcine-, (SKH-1) murine-, human- ex vivo skin and reconstructed human skin (RHS) were investigated during simulated sun irradiation (305-2200 nm), with X-band EPR spectroscopy. The amount of radical formation was investigated with the spin probe PCA exposed to a moderate sun dose below one minimal erythema dose (MED, ~25 mJ/cm² UVB) in all skin models. Furthermore, the *OH and *CCR radical concentrations were measured with the spin trap DMPO within 0-4 MED (porcine-, human skin and RHS). The highest amount of radicals was found in RHS followed by murine and porcine, and the lowest amount in human ex vivo skin. In all skin models, more *OH than CCR radicals were found at 0-4 MED. Additionally, this work addresses the limitations in the characterization with the spin trap DMPO. The measurements have shown that the most comparable skin model to in vivo human skin could differ depending on the focus of the investigation. If the amount of radial production is regarded, RHS seems to be in a similar range like in vivo human skin. If the investigation is focused on the radical type, porcine skin is most comparable to ex vivo human skin, at an irradiation dose not exceeding 1 MED. Here, no comparison to in vivo human skin is possible.

Human skin in vivo has a higher skin barrier function than porcine skin ex vivo-comprehensive Raman microscopic study of the stratum corneum

Porcine skin is widely used as a human skin model in dermatology. For both, porcine stratum corneum (SC) ex vivo and human SC in vivo, the hydrogen bonding states of water, the secondary and tertiary structures of keratin, the natural moisturizing factor (NMF) concentrations and the intercellular lipids' (ICL) lateral organization are investigated depth-dependently using confocal Raman microscopy. The SC depth profiles show that porcine SC ex vivo is characterized by lower hydrogen bonding states of water (10%-30% SC depth), lower NMF concentration in the whole SC, more β-sheet form of keratin (10%-90% SC depth), more folded tertiary keratin structures (30%-70% SC depth) and higher hexagonal lateral packing order of ICL (10%-50% SC depth) compared to human SC in vivo. The results clearly show a higher value of skin barrier function of human SC in vivo than of porcine SC ex vivo. Thus, the human SC in vivo is less permeable for lipophilic and hydrophilic substances than porcine SC ex vivo. Considering the porcine SC as an ex vivo model of human SC in vivo, these findings should be taken into consideration.

Free radicals induced by sunlight in different spectral regions - in vivo versus ex vivo study

Sunlight represents an exogenous factor stimulating formation of free radicals which can induce cell damage. To assess the effect of the different spectral solar regions on the development of free radicals in skin, in vivo electron paramagnetic resonance (EPR) investigations with human volunteers and ex vivo studies on excised human and porcine skin were carried out. For all skin probes, the ultraviolet (UV) spectral region stimulates the most intensive radical formation, followed by the visible (VIS) and the near infrared (NIR) regions. A comparison between the different skin models shows that for UV light, the fastest and highest production of free radicals could be detected in vivo, followed by excised porcine and human skin. The same distribution pattern was found for the VIS/NIR spectral regions, whereby the differences in radical formation between in vivo and ex vivo were less pronounced. An analysis of lipid composition in vivo before and after exposure to UV light clearly showed modifications in several skin lipid components; a decrease of ceramide subclass [AP2] and an increase of ceramide subclass [NP2], sodium cholesterol sulphate and squalene (SQ) were detectable. In contrast, VIS/NIR irradiation led to an increase of ceramides [AP2] and SCS, and a decrease of SQ. These results, which are largely comparable for the different skin models investigated in vivo and ex vivo, indicate that radiation exposure in different spectral regions strongly influences radical production in skin and also results in changes in skin lipid composition, which is essential for barrier function.

Structural characterization of astaxanthin aggregates as revealed by analysis and simulation of optical spectra

Carotenoids can self-assemble in hydrated polar solvents to form J- or H-type aggregates, inducing dramatic changes in photophysical properties. Here, we measured absorption and emission spectra of astaxanthin in ethanol-water solution using ultraviolet-visible and fluorescence spectrometers. Two types of aggregates were distinguished in mixed solution at different water contents by absorption spectra. After addition of water, all probed samples immediately formed H-aggregates with maximum blue shift of 31nm. In addition, J-aggregate was formed in 1:3 ethanol-water solution measured after an hour. Based on Frenkel exciton model, we calculated linear absorption and emission spectra of these aggregates to describe aggregate structures in solution. For astaxanthin, experimental results agreed well with the fitted spectra of H-aggregate models, which consisted of tightly packed stacks of individual molecules, including hexamers, trimers, and dimers. Transition moment of single astaxanthin in ethanol was obtained by Gaussian 09 program package to estimate the distance between molecules in aggregates. Intermolecular distance of astaxanthin aggregates ranges from 0.45nm to 0.9nm. Fluorescence analysis showed that between subbands, strong exciton coupling induced rapid relaxation of H-aggregates. This coupling generated larger Stokes shift than monomers and J-aggregates.

Investigation of the cutaneous penetration behavior of dexamethasone loaded to nano-sized lipid particles by EPR spectroscopy, and confocal Raman and laser scanning microscopy

An improvement of the penetration efficiency combined with the controlled release of actives in the skin can facilitate the medical treatment of skin diseases immensely. Dexamethasone (Dx), a synthetic glucocorticoid, is frequently used for the treatment of inflammatory skin diseases. To investigate the penetration of nano-sized lipid particles (NLP) loaded with Dx in comparison to a commercially available base cream, different techniques were applied. Electron paramagnetic resonance (EPR) spectroscopy was used to monitor the penetration of Dx, which was covalently labeled with the spin probe 3-(Carboxy)-2,2,5,5-tetramethyl-1-pyrrolidinyloxy (PCA). The penetration into hair follicles was studied using confocal laser scanning microscopy (CLSM) with curcumin-loaded NLP. The penetration of the vehicle was followed by confocal Raman microscopy (CRM). Penetration studies using excised porcine skin revealed a more than twofold higher penetration efficiency for DxPCA into the stratum corneum (SC) after 24h incubation compared to 4h incubation when loaded to the NLP, whereas when applied in the base cream, almost no further penetration was observed beyond 4h. The distribution of DxPCA within the SC was investigated by consecutive tape stripping. The release of DxPCA from the base cream after 24h in deeper SC layers and the viable epidermis was shown by EPR. For NLP, no release from the carrier was observed, although DxPCA was detectable in the skin after the complete SC was removed. This phenomenon can be explained by the penetration of the NLP into the hair follicles. However, penetration profiles measured by CRM indicate that NLP did not penetrate as deeply into the SC as the base cream formulation. In conclusion, NLP can improve the accumulation of Dx in the skin and provide a reservoir within the SC and in the follicular infundibula.

Comparison of different cutaneous carotenoid sensors and influence of age, skin type, and kinetic changes subsequent to intake of a vegetable extract

In the last decade, cutaneous carotenoid measurements have become increasingly popular, as carotenoids were found to be a biomarker of nutrition rich in fruits and vegetables, permitting monitoring of the influence of various stress factors. For such measurements, in addition to the specific and selective resonance Raman spectroscopy (RRS), newly developed low expensive small and mobile sensors that are based on spatially resolved reflectance spectroscopy (SRRS) are used for cutaneous carotenoid measurements. Human volunteers of different age exhibiting skin types I to III were investigated using RRS and two SRRS-based sensors to determine the influence of these parameters on the measuring results. In two studies on volunteers of either the same age or skin type, however, the respective other parameter being varied and no significant influences of age or skin type could be detected. Furthermore, the kinetic changes resulting from the intake and discontinued intake of a vegetable extract rich in carotenoids showed a good correlation among the three sensors and with the detected blood carotenoids. This illustrates that the SRRS-based sensors and RRS device provide reliable cutaneous carotenoid values independent of age and skin types I to III of the volunteers.

In vitro models for evaluating safety and efficacy of novel technologies for skin drug delivery

For preclinical testing of novel therapeutics, predictive in vitro models of the human skin are required to assess efficacy, absorption and safety. Simple as well as more sophisticated three-dimensional organotypic models of the human skin emerged as versatile and powerful tools simulating healthy as well as diseased skin states. Besides addressing the demands of research and industry, such models serve as valid alternative to animal testing. Recently, the acceptance of several models by regulatory authorities corroborates their role as important building block for preclinical development. However, valid assessment of readout parameters derived from these models requires suitable analytical techniques. Standard analytical methods are mostly destructive and limited regarding in-depth investigation on molecular level. The combination of adequate in vitro models with modern non-invasive analytical modalities bears a great potential to address important skin drug delivery related questions. Topics of interest are for instance the assessment of repeated dosing effects and xenobiotic biotransformation, which cannot be analyzed by destructive techniques. This review provides a comprehensive overview of current in vitro skin models differing in functional complexity and mimicking healthy as well as diseased skin states. Further, benefits and limitations regarding analytical evaluation of efficacy, absorption and safety of novel drug carrier systems applied to such models are discussed along with a prospective view of anticipated future directions. In addition, emerging non-invasive imaging modalities are introduced and their significance and potential to advance current knowledge in the field of skin drug delivery is explored.

Evaluation of carotenoids and reactive oxygen species in human skin after UV irradiation: a critical comparison between in vivo and ex vivo investigations

UV irradiation is one of the most harmful exogenous factors for the human skin. In addition to the development of erythema, free radicals, that is reactive oxygen species (ROS), are induced under its influence and promote the development of oxidative stress in the skin. Several techniques are available for determining the effect of UV irradiation. Resonance Raman spectroscopy (RRS) measures the reduction of the carotenoid concentration, while electron paramagnetic resonance (EPR) spectroscopy enables the analysis of the production of free radicals. Depending on the method, the skin parameters are analysed in vivo or ex vivo. This study provides a critical comparison between in vivo and ex vivo investigations on the ROS formation and carotenoid depletion caused by UV irradiation in human skin. The oxygen content of tissue was also determined. It was shown that the antioxidant status measured in the skin samples in vivo and ex vivo was different. The depletion in the carotenoid concentration in vivo exceeded the value determined ex vivo by a factor of about 1.5, and the radical formation after UV irradiation was significantly greater in vivo by a factor of 3.5 than that measured in excised human skin, which can be explained by the lack of oxygen ex vivo.

Cutaneous carotenoids: the mirror of lifestyle?

Carotenoids could serve as marker substances of the antioxidant status of the human skin. In the present study, an optical skin scanner was used to analyse the carotenoid concentration obtained from 4 volunteers over a period of 13 days. The measurements were taken daily at different time points. In addition, the volunteers were asked to keep track of their daily nutritional behaviour and stress situations in a diary. It was found that the carotenoid values reflect clearly the nutritional behaviour and stress situations of the volunteers. While a steady, increased intake of fruit and vegetables resulted in a gradual increase in the dermal carotenoid values for several days, stressful situations entailed an immediate decline in these values. Although the impact of healthy nutrition on the antioxidant protection system is generally known and notwithstanding the small number of cases, the present study clearly demonstrates that the avoidance and/or reduction of stress is similarly important in order not to counteract or nullify the results achieved by healthy nutrition.

Radical protection in the visible and infrared by a hyperforin-rich cream--in vivo versus ex vivo methods

The formation of radicals plays an important role in the development of atopic eczema or barrier-disrupted skin. We evaluated the radical scavenging effect of a cream containing a Hypericum perforatum extract rich in hyperforin in a double-blind placebo-controlled study on 11 healthy volunteers. Electron paramagnetic resonance spectroscopy was applied to determine radical formation during VIS/NIR irradiation of the inner forearm. The results were compared to ex vivo investigations on excised porcine ear skin after a single application of the creams. The non-treated skin was measured as control. The absolute values and the kinetics are not comparable for ex vivo and in vivo radical formation. Whereas in vivo, the radical production decreases with time, it remains stable ex vivo over the investigated timescale. Nevertheless, ex vivo methods could be developed to estimate the protection efficiency of creams. In vivo as well as ex vivo, the radical formation could be reduced by almost 80% when applying the hyperforin-rich cream onto the skin, whereas placebo resulted in about 60%. In vivo, a daylong protection effect could be validated after a 4-week application time of the cream indicating that a regular application is necessary to obtain the full effect.

Serial non-invasive measurements of dermal carotenoid concentrations in dairy cows following recovery from abomasal displacement

Maintaining the health of farm animals forms the basis for a sustainable and profitable production of food from animal origin. Recently, the effects of carotenoids on the oxidative status as well as on reproductive and immune functions in cattle have been demonstrated. The present study aimed at investigating dermal carotenoid levels in cattle recovering from abomasal displacement. For this purpose, serial in vivo measurements were undertaken using a miniaturized scanner system that relies on reflection spectroscopy (Opsolution GmbH, Kassel, Germany). In a first trial, repeated measurements of dermal carotenoid concentrations were performed on the udder skin of healthy non-lactating cattle (n = 6) for one month in weekly intervals. In a second trial, in vivo dermal carotenoid concentrations were determined in intervals in 23 cows following surgical treatment of abomasal displacement. The results show that dermal carotenoid concentrations, determined on a weekly basis over a period of one month, showed variations of up to 18% in the healthy individuals kept under constant conditions with respect to housing and nutrition. Repeated measurements during the recovery period following surgical treatment of abomasal displacement resulted in an increase in dermal carotenoid concentrations in 18 of 20 animals with a favourable outcome when compared with results obtained within 12 hours following surgery. The mean increase in dermal carotenoid concentrations in subsequent measurements was 53±44%, whereas levels decreased (mean 31±27%) in cattle with a fatal outcome.

These results indicate potential applications for reflection spectroscopy for non-invasive early detection of changes in the dermal carotenoid concentrations as a reflection of the antioxidant status in an animal.

Noninvasive measurements of carotenoids in bovine udder by reflection spectroscopy

For a long time, the antioxidative status in cattle has been discussed as an indicator for stress conditions resulting from disease or exertion. Until now, invasive approaches have been necessary to obtain blood samples or biopsy materials and gain insights into the antioxidative status of cattle. Due to these efforts and the costs of the analyses, serial sampling is feasible in an experimental setting, but not for measurements on a routine basis. The present study focuses on the feasibility of an innovative, noninvasive spectroscopic technique that allows in vivo measurements of carotenoids in the skin by reflection spectroscopy. To this end, in a first trial, repeated measurements of the carotenoid concentration of the udder skin were performed on 25 healthy cattle from different breeds. Carotenoid concentrations showed highly significant differences between individual animals (P<0.001), although they were kept under the same environmental conditions and received the same diet. The carotenoid concentrations in "sensitive" and "robust" cows (evaluated by a temperament test) differed significantly (P<0.005), with higher concentrations observed in robust cows.

Encapsulated curcumin results in prolonged curcumin activity in vitro and radical scavenging activity ex vivo on skin after UVB-irradiation

The phytochemical curcumin possesses antioxidant activity; however, it becomes unstable after being exposed to light or heat or loses activity during storage. This is especially important when curcumin is applied to the skin within a cosmetic or pharmaceutical formulation, since sun exposure is unavoidable. This drawback can be directly addressed by encapsulation of curcumin in photo-stable nanospheres. Therefore, curcumin was encapsulated into nanoparticles consisting of ethyl cellulose and/or methyl cellulose. Nanoparticles were subjected to processing conditions commonly used in industry, for example, temperature and pressure and thus retained their morphology. Furthermore, sun exposure resulted in the protection of curcumin by nanoparticles, whereas non-encapsulated curcumin degraded completely. Determination of the radical protection factor resulted in similar antioxidant activity of encapsulated and non-encapsulated curcumin indicating that curcumin maintains its antioxidant activity. Application of lotions containing curcumin or curcumin nanoparticles to the skin and subsequent UVB-irradiation resulted in less radical formation compared to lotion application only. Moreover, radical formation was even less after nanoparticle application compared to free curcumin. Nanoencapsulation protects curcumin from photo degradation and can therefore prolong the antioxidant activity of curcumin.

The Role of Carotenoids in Human Skin

The human skin, as the boundary organ between the human body and the environment, is under the constant influence of free radicals (FR), both from the outside in and from the inside out. Carotenoids are known to be powerful antioxidant substances playing an essential role in the reactions of neutralization of FR (mainly reactive oxygen species ROS). Carotenoid molecules present in the tissue are capable of neutralizing several attacks of FR, especially ROS, and are then destroyed. Human skin contains carotenoids, such as α-, γ-, β-carotene, lutein, zeaxanthin, lycopene and their isomers, which serve the living cells as a protection against oxidation. Recent studies have reported the possibility to investigate carotenoids in human skin quickly and non-invasively by spectroscopic means. Results obtained from in-vivo studies on human skin have shown that carotenoids are vital components of the antioxidative protective system of the human skin and could serve as marker substances for the overall antioxidative status. Reflecting the nutritional and stress situation of volunteers, carotenoids must be administered by means of antioxidant-rich products, e.g., in the form of fruit and vegetables. Carotenoids are degraded by stress factors of any type, inter alia, sun radiation, contact with environmental hazards, illness, etc. The kinetics of the accumulation and degradation of carotenoids in the skin have been investigated.

Skin penetration enhancement of core-multishell nanotransporters and invasomes measured by electron paramagnetic resonance spectroscopy

In order to cross the skin barrier several techniques and carrier systems were developed to increase skin penetration of topical dermatics and to reduce systemic adverse effects by avoiding systemic application. Ultra-flexible vesicles, e.g. invasomes and core-multishell (CMS) nanotransporters are efficient drug delivery systems for dermatological applications. Electron paramagnetic resonance (EPR) spectroscopic techniques were used for the determination of localization and distribution of the spin label 3-carboxy-2,2,5,5-tetramethyl-1-pyrrolidinyloxy (PCA; logP=-1.7) within the carrier systems and the ability of the carriers to promote penetration of PCA into the skin. The results show an exclusive localization of PCA in the hydrophilic compartments of the invasome dispersion and the CMS nanotransporter solution. PCA penetration was enhanced 2.5 fold for CMS and 1.9 fold for invasomes compared to PCA solution. Investigation of penetration depth by step-wise removal of the stratum corneum by tape stripping revealed deepest PCA penetration for invasomes. UV-irradiation of PCA-exposed skin samples revealed that the spin label is still reactive. In conclusion novel polymer-based CMS nanotransporters and invasomes can favor the penetration of PCA or hydrophilic drugs. This offers possibilities for e.g. improved photodynamic therapy.

Interaction between carotenoids and free radicals in human skin

Environmental factors like air pollutants, radiation of the sun and stress factors such as illness, smoking, or alcohol abuse produce free radicals in the human tissue as well as in the skin. Free radicals serve as the main cause for premature skin aging. Additionally, they also contribute towards immunosuppression and the formation of skin diseases including cancer. The human organism has developed a protection system against the destructive action of free radicals by means of the antioxidant network. In the present study, the interaction of free radicals and carotenoid antioxidants in the human skin under in vivo conditions was investigated and summarized. The measurement of carotenoids in human skin was performed in vivo using resonance Raman spectroscopy.

Determination of the antioxidative capacity of the skin in vivo using resonance Raman and electron paramagnetic resonance spectroscopy

BACKGROUND

Non-invasive measurements are of major interest for investigating the effects of stress, nutrition, diseases or pharmaceuticals on the antioxidative capacity of the human skin. However, only a few non-invasive methods are available.

MATERIAL AND METHODS

The resonance Raman spectroscopy is well established to monitor carotenoids in the skin, but correlations with other antioxidants have not yet been described. Electron paramagnetic resonance spectroscopy used for measurements of free radicals has already been used elsewhere to investigate the reduction of applied long-living nitroxide radicals, caused by skin antioxidants and UV irradiation, but only a single or up to four volunteers were included in these studies. Therefore, in this study, the two methods were applied in parallel on 17 volunteers, and the rate constant of the nitroxide decrease was correlated with the cutaneous carotenoid concentration.

RESULTS AND DISCUSSION

A correlation with R = 0.65 was found, supporting the thesis that different antioxidants protect each other and build an antioxidative network in the skin. The results also give first indications that the carotenoids serve as marker substances for the antioxidative capacity, if the nutrition is well balanced.