Lipid-based formulations in cosmeceuticals and biopharmaceuticals

Effect of intermediate polarity molecule on phase transitions and bilayer structure in phospholipid membranes

Lipid-based formulations are widely utilized in various applications including food, cosmetics, and pharmaceuticals. The properties of these formulations can be influenced by changes in the external environment. As one example, dehydration can induce phase changes and alter the structural organization and molecular dynamic in the formulation, which potentially compromises the reversibility to a dispersed liquid crystalline state upon rehydration. A common strategy to prevent phase transitions and mitigate these effects involves the addition of small molecules with low vapor pressure. The protective effects of such additives will depend on their distribution within the lipid self-assembly structure. In this study, we investigate the effects of an intermediate polarity compound on phospholipid self-assembly in varying hydration conditions. As a model intermediate polarity compound, we use 1,2,3-trimethoxy propane (TMP), and we compare its effects with hydrophobic and hydrophilic compounds of similar molecular weight on the same lipid system. Lipid self-assembly structure and molecular dynamics were characterized using a multi-technique approach, including solid-state NMR, differential scanning calorimetry, and small- and wide-angle X-ray scattering. It is demonstrated that TMP influences lipid self-assembly at low water content while its effect becomes negligible at high water content. The observations can be rationalised based on the partitioning of TMP within the lamellar structure, where it behaves as a hydrophobic additive in dry conditions and as a hydrophilic additive in more hydrated conditions. The underlying principles of TMP's dual behavior highlight the potential of other intermediate polarity molecules in tailoring the properties of lipid-based formulations.

Ultra-Performance Liquid Chromatography-Quadrupole-Time-of-Flight-Mass Spectrometry-Based Analysis of Facial Physiological Parameters and Lipid Composition of Between Sensitive Skin of Women Aged 36-42 and 43-49 Year

BACKGROUND

UPLC-Q-TOF-MS (Ultra-Performance Liquid Chromatography-Quadrupole Time-of-Flight Mass Spectrometry) is a high-precision, high-density technology for lipid analysis. Sensitive skin is a sub-stable condition, and it has been reported that the population of sensitive skin in China is predominantly female. Meanwhile, women with sensitive skin have different physiological parameters as well as lipid compositions at different ages. The Yellow Emperor's Classic of Internal Medicine states that the number of women's life cycles is seven, that major changes are manifested every 7 years, and that aging begins at age 35. At present, the correlation between facial lipid composition and aging indicators of sensitive skin in women aged 36-42 and 43-49 years has not been reported.

OBJECTIVE

This study reveals the relationship between key lipid composition of the facial skin and the aging of sensitive skin in women aged 36-42 and 43-49 years.

METHODS

We used UPLC-Q-TOF-MS technology to study the changes in lipid composition in the sensitive skin of woman aged 36-42 and 43-49 years, using a multi-probe adapter system with different types of skin-testing probes to test physiological parameters. Three types of multivariate data-questionnaires, physiological indicators, and lipid composition-were used together to assess differences in aging in a population of women with sensitive skin at different ages.

RESULTS

1. In the questionnaire part, the T1 group was more susceptible to sunburn and the T2 group was more susceptible to tanning. 2. In the physiological index part, the aging characteristics of facial skin in the T2 group were obvious, with the b-value, as well as the brown area size, being significantly higher than the T1 group, while the TWEL, sebum, R2 value, ITA value, pore count, and concentration of the red area were significantly lower than the T1 group. 3. In the lipid part, the total facial lipid content was higher in the T2 group, with a significantly higher GP lipid, and the 47 VIP lipids obtained were analyzed by ROC curves, narrowing down to six lipids, PS(2-OMe-21:0/0:0), PS(O-18:0/20:5 (5Z,8Z,11Z,14Z,17Z)), PA(O-16:0/20:5 (5Z,8Z,11Z,14Z,17Z)), PS (P-16:0/12:0, PA (O-16:0/22:2 (13Z,16Z)), and PC (19:3 (10Z,13Z,16Z)/0:0)), and all six lipids were higher in the T2 group. 4. In Spearman correlation analysis, PS(O-18:0/20:5(5Z,8Z,11Z,14Z,17Z)), PS(P-16:0/12:0), PS(2-OMe-21:0/0:0), PA(O-16:0/20:5(5Z,8Z,11Z,14Z,17Z)), and PC(19:3( 10Z,13Z,16Z)/0:0), which are five lipids and skin aging indicators (TWEL, sebum, ITA value, b-value, pore count, concentration of red area, and brown area size) were significantly correlated.

CONCLUSIONS

Through correlation analysis, it was found that changes in the composition of skin surface lipids (SSLs) in both age groups have an important influence on facial physiological indicators (aging manifestations) and played an important role in furthering the understanding of sensitive skin aging. Therefore, these lipid components also provide theoretical support for the development of cosmetic ingredients that slow down the aging of sensitive skin.

A New Means to Generate Liposomes by Rehydrating Engineered Lipid Nanoconstructs

The concept and feasibility of producing liposomes by rehydrating engineered lipid nanoconstructs are demonstrated in this study. Nanoconstructs of 1-palmitoyl-2-oleoyl-sn-glycero-3-phosphocholine (POPC) were produced using a microfluidic delivery probe integrated with an atomic force microscope. The subsequent rehydration of these POPC constructs led to the formation of liposomes, most of which remained adhered to the surface. The size (e.g., diameter) of the liposomes could be tuned by varying the lateral dimension of the lipid constructs. Hierarchical liposomal structures, such as pentagons containing five liposomes at the corners, could also be designed and produced by depositing lipid constructs to designated locations on the surfaces, followed by rehydration. This new means allows for regulating liposomal sizes, distributions, and compositions. The outcomes benefit applications of liposomes as delivery vehicles, sensors, and building blocks in biomaterials design. The ability to produce hierarchical liposomal structures benefits numerous applications such as proto-cell development, multiplexed bio-composite materials, and the engineering of local bio-environments.

Lipids Fortified Nano Phytopharmaceuticals: A Breakthrough Approach in Delivering Bio-actives for Improved Therapeutic Efficacy

Phytopharmaceuticals, derived from natural sources, manifest tremendous potential for therapeutic applications. Nevertheless, effective delivery of these bio-actives presents significant challenges. A breakthrough in fortifying phytopharmaceuticals within phosphatidylcholine is a promising remedy to overcome solubility, permeability, and other related drawbacks. This intrinsic lipid, which is obtained from both natural and synthetic sources, confers numerous benefits, encompassing heightened solubility, augmented bioavailability, and enhanced stability. The conjugation of phytopharmaceuticals with phosphatidylcholine enables improved dermal permeation, absorption, targeted distribution, and the possibility of synergistic results, eventually improving therapeutic efficacy. Additionally, the use of phytopharmaceuticals enriched with phosphatidylcholine presents a promising route for overcoming the limitations imposed by conventional delivery techniques, encouraging more effective treatments. The review provides a thorough analysis of phosphatidylcholine- incorporated phytopharmaceuticals as nanomedicine with variables that significantly affect their therapeutic efficacy. Moreover, the review elaborates on how phosphatidylcholine improves solubility, permeability, and tissue distribution and boosts the potential of phytopharmaceuticals. Further, the review underscores the significance of nano-formulation strategies, analytical methodologies, and forthcoming prospects to propel this field forward. Furthermore, the review emphasizes the potential inherent in this innovative approach while highlighting the importance of additional research endeavors and collaborative initiatives to unlock the therapeutic benefits of phosphatidylcholinefortified phytopharmaceuticals, enhancing patient well-being.

10(E)-Pentadecenoic Acid Inhibits Melanogenesis Partly Through Suppressing the Intracellular MITF/Tyrosinase Axis

Melanogenesis, the biological process responsible for melanin synthesis, plays a crucial role in determining skin and hair color, photoprotection, and serving as a biomarker in various diseases. While various factors regulate melanogenesis, the role of fatty acids in this process remains underexplored. This study investigated the anti-melanogenic properties of 10(E)-pentadecenoic acid (10E-PDA) through both in silico and in vitro analyses. SwissSimilarity was utilized to predict the functional properties of 10E-PDA by comparing it with structurally similar lipids known to exhibit anti-melanogenic effects. Subsequent in vitro experiments demonstrated that 10E-PDA significantly reduced melanin production and intracellular tyrosinase activity in α-MSH (melanocyte-stimulating hormone)-stimulated B16F10 melanoma cells without exhibiting significant cytotoxicity at concentrations up to 15 μM. Further mechanistic studies revealed that 10E-PDA inhibited the nuclear translocation of microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF), consistent with the decrease observed in p-MITF protein levels. It also decreased the mRNA levels of tyrosinase-related proteins (TRP-1, TRP-2) and tyrosinase, while reducing the protein levels of TRP-1 and tyrosinase, but not TRP-2. These findings suggest that 10E-PDA exerts its anti-melanogenic effects by modulating the MITF/tyrosinase axis, presenting potential therapeutic implications for skin pigmentation disorders.

Supercritical CO2 Extraction vs. Hexane Extraction and Cold Pressing: Comparative Analysis of Seed Oils from Six Plant Species

Supercritical fluid extraction using carbon dioxide (SFE-CO2) brings a convincing advance in the production of plant oils used in cosmetics, in fortified foods and dietary supplements, and in pharmaceuticals and medicine. The SFE-CO2-extracted, hexane-extracted, and cold-pressed plant oils of pumpkin (Cucurbita pepo L.), flax (Linum usitatissimum L.), linden (Tilia sp.), poppy (Papaver somniferum L.), apricot (Prunus armeniaca L.), and marigold (Calendula officinalis L.) seeds were investigated in terms of oil yield, fatty acid composition, unsaponifiable matter yield and composition, and the antioxidant activity of unsaponifiable matter. SFE-CO2 proved to be the preferred extraction method for four out of six plant materials, especially for seeds with lower oil content. However, for seeds with higher oil content, such as apricots, cold pressing is a viable alternative. A comparison of fatty acid composition did not reveal significant differences between extraction techniques. SFE-CO2 extraction improved the total phytosterol content of oils, especially pumpkin seed oil. A high variability in the antioxidant potential of the unsaponifiable matter studied was determined, with pumpkin seed oil showing the highest antioxidant activity. A correlation analysis was performed between unsaponifiable composition and antioxidant activity, and showed statistically significant correlations with squalene, cycloartenol, and an unidentified compound. This is the first comparison of the phytosterol compositions of linseed, apricot, linden, and marigold. Through continued optimization, SFE-CO2 has the potential to revolutionize the production of plant oils and provide a sustainable and efficient alternative.

A Comparative Analysis of Butter, Ghee, and Margarine and Its Implications for Healthier Fat and Oil Group Choices: SWOT Analysis

This study aims to comparatively analyze butter, ghee, and margarine fatty acid profiles and their implications for healthier fat and oil group choices. In this cross-sectional study, 60 samples from best-selling brands of butter, ghee, and margarine were randomly selected from five food chain stores in Tehran, Iran. Then, all the samples were coded, packed in cool conditions, and sent to the laboratory to determine the fatty acid profiles by using gas chromatography (GC). Based on the authors' experiences and the available literature, a policy dialogue session was held with stakeholders about oil and fat challenges, followed by a Strengths, Weaknesses, Opportunities, and Threats (SWOT) analysis. The mean ± SE of total fatty acids in butter, ghee, and margarine was 94.07 ± 0.17, 94.49 ± 0.61, and 99.00 ± 0.18; total saturated fatty acid (TSFA) 66.69 ± 0.39, 64.26 ± 0.63, and 40.36 ± 0.87; trans fatty acid (TFA) 2.43 ± 0.09, 3.60 ± 0.29, and 0.83 ± 0.15 g/100 gfat, respectively. The predominant TFAs in butter and ghee were vaccenic acid (animal source) (2.06 ± 0.07 and 2.41 ± 0.17), while in margarine, it was elaidic acid (plant-based source) (0.32 ± 0.12 g/100 gfat), respectively. Also, the SWOT findings showed being TFAs in the acceptable range (as the main strength), mismanagement (Weakness), reducing taxes based on lower TFA content (Opportunity), and sanctions (as the main Threat) were the most important criteria affecting fat choices in the Iranian food basket. The results of the study found that butter, ghee, and margarine contain relatively low levels of TFAs; however, butter and ghee were rich in beneficial fatty acids, which have been shown to have health-protective properties. Policymakers can implicate the proposed strategies and opportunities from the SWOT analysis for healthier fat and oil choices to promote public health.

Para rubber seed oil and its fatty acids alleviate photoaging and maintain cell homeostasis

OBJECTIVE

Para rubber seed oil was indicated for skin dullness and hair loss in regard to its cutaneous beneficial fatty acids. Nonetheless, the oil's potency against photoaging remains unexplored. We proposed that para rubber seed oil could alleviate photoaging.

METHODS

Para rubber seed oil was investigated in cocultures of human HaCaT cells and dermal fibroblasts (HDF). Photoaging protectant efficiency was monitored in terms of IL-6 and IL-8 as well as MMP-1 (collagenase) and MMP-9 (gelatinase) in a comparison with its fatty acid components.

RESULTS

Para rubber seed oil standardized in fatty acids was indicated as the promising plant oil for photoaging treatment. Its photoprotection mechanism was demonstrated in the coculture system of keratinocyte and fibroblast cells for the first time. Where the oil and its fatty acid constituents (100 μg/mL) were indicated to be safe and efficiently protect the cocultures against UV damage. The oil significantly (p < 0.001) suppressed UV-induced IL-6, IL-8, MMP-1 and MMP-9 secretions. The revealed photoprotection proficiency was abided by its fatty acids, particularly the unsaturated C18 ones.

CONCLUSION

The oil was indicated on its potential to maintain skin homeostasis and would alleviate senescence ageing in regard to its photoprotection abilities exhibited. Para rubber seed oil is warranted as a new generation of photoaging protectant agent with the profiled safety and efficacy demonstrated in the epidermal coculture system. The findings encourage the development of innovative anti-ageing products containing the oil, which is categorizable as a sustainable specialty material for photoaging treatment.

Rational Design, Synthesis, and Characterization of a Solid Δ9-Tetrahydrocannabinol Nanoformulation Suitable for "Microdosing" Applications

Background: This article highlights the formulation of a solid Δ9-tetrahydrocannabinol (THC)-loaded ingestible prepared from pure THC distillate. Methods: A THC-containing ethanol-assisted cannabinoid nanoemulsion (EACNE) was created using a solvent displacement technique. Subsequently, the EACNE was converted to a solid powdery material while still retaining its THC potency, a format uniquely suited for "microdosing" applications. Results: EACNE had an average lipid droplet size of ∼190 nm, with a polydispersity index of 0.15, and an average droplet ζ potential of -49±10 mV. The nanoemulsion (NE) was colloidally stable for at least 6 weeks, with no meaningful change in cannabinoid potency over the experimental period, as determined by high-performance liquid chromatography analysis. The EACNE remained stable when subjected to physical stresses such as heat, freeze/thaw cycles, carbonation, dilution to beverage concentrations, high sucrose concentrations, and a pH range between 5 and 8. The microencapsulated EACNE demonstrated limited free-flowing behavior but was freely redispersible in water without any visible phase separation. Conclusions: We report the design, creation, and characterization of a THC NE generated without the use of specialized equipment, such as a microfluidizer or a high-pressure homogenizer. This emulsion could readily be converted to a water-redispersible powder. This embodiment is particularly suited for THC "microdosing," a practice that might decouple the health benefits of THC from its psychotropic effects.

Chemical Profile and Potential Applications of Sclerocarya birrea (A.Rich.) Hochst. subsp. caffra (Sond.) Kokwaro Kernel Oils: Analysis of Volatile Compounds and Fatty Acids

Sclerocarya birrea kernel volatile compounds and fatty acid methyl esters (FAMEs) from the Bubi district in Matabeleland North province of Zimbabwe were characterised by GC-MS. The volatile compounds of the oil include 65 different compounds from 24 distinct classes, dominated by 13 alcohols and 14 aldehydes (42%). Other classes include carboxylic acids, phenols, sesquiterpenes, lactones, pyridines, saturated fatty acids, ketones, and various hydrocarbons. The kernel oils revealed essential fatty acids such as polyunsaturated (α-linolenic and linoleic acids) and monounsaturated fatty acids (palmitic, palmitoleic, and oleic acids). Notably, oleic acid is the predominant fatty acid at 521.61 mg/g, constituting approximately 73% of the total fatty acids. Linoleic acid makes up 8%, and saturated fatty acids make up about 7%, including significant amounts of stearic (42.45 mg/g) and arachidic (3.46 mg/g) acids. These results validate the use of marula oils in food, pharmaceutical, and health industries, as well as in the multibillion USD cosmetics industry. Therefore, the potential applications of S. berria kernel oils are extensive, necessitating further research and exploration to fully unlock their capabilities.

Advances in microscopy characterization techniques for lipid nanocarriers in drug delivery: a comprehensive review

This review paper provides an in-depth analysis of the significance of lipid nanocarriers in drug delivery and the crucial role of characterization techniques. It explores various types of lipid nanocarriers and their applications, emphasizing the importance of microscopy-based characterization methods such as light microscopy, confocal microscopy, transmission electron microscopy (TEM), scanning electron microscopy (SEM), and atomic force microscopy (AFM). The paper also delves into sample preparation, quantitative analysis, challenges, and future directions in the field. The review concludes by underlining the pivotal role of microscopy-based characterization in advancing lipid nanocarrier research and drug delivery technologies.

Black soldier fly (Hermetia illucens L.): A potential small mighty giant in the field of cosmeceuticals

Background and Aims

Natural products are widely used in the pharmaceutical and cosmetics industries due to their high-value bioactive compounds, which make for "greener" and more environmentally friendly ingredients. These natural compounds are also considered a safer alternative to antibiotics, which may result in antibiotic resistance as well as unfavorable side effects. The development of cosmeceuticals, which combine the cosmetic and pharmaceutical fields to create skincare products with therapeutic value, has increased the demand for unique natural resources. The objective of this review is to discuss the biological properties of extracts derived from larvae of the black soldier fly (BSF; Hermetia illucens), the appropriate extraction methods, and the potential of this insect as a novel active ingredient in the formulation of new cosmeceutical products. This review also addresses the biological actions of compounds originating from the BSF, and the possible association between the diets of BSF larvae and their subsequent bioactive composition.

Methods

A literature search was conducted using PubMed and Google Scholar to identify and evaluate the various biological properties of the BSF.

Results

One such natural resource that may be useful in the cosmeceutical field is the BSF, a versatile insect with numerous potential applications due to its nutrient content and scavenging behavior. Previous research has also shown that the BSF has several biological properties, including antimicrobial, antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and wound healing effects.

Conclusion

Given the range of biological activities and metabolites possessed by the BSF, this insect may have the cosmeceutical potential to treat a number of skin pathologies.

Nanocosmeceuticals: Trends and Recent Advancements in Self Care

The term cosmetics refers to any substances or products intended for external application on the skin with the aim of protection and better appearance of the skin surface. The skin delivery system promotes the controlled and targeted delivery of active ingredients. The development of this system has been driven by challenges encountered with conventional cosmeceuticals, including low skin retention of active components, limited percutaneous penetration, poor water dispersion of insoluble active ingredients, and instability of effective components. The aim is to create cosmeceuticals that can effectively overcome these issues. This review focuses on various nanocarriers used in cosmeceuticals currently and their applications in skin care, hair care, oral care, and more. The importance of nanotechnology in the sphere of research and development is growing. It provides solutions to various problems faced by conventional technologies, methods, and product formulations thus taking hold of the cosmetic industry as well. Nowadays, consumers are investing in cosmetics only for better appearance thus problems like wrinkles, ageing, hair loss, and dandruff requires to be answered proficiently. Nanocarriers not only enhance the efficacy of cosmeceutical products, providing better and longer-lasting effects, but they also contribute to the improved aesthetic appearance of the products. This dual benefit not only enhances the final quality and efficacy of the product but also increases consumer satisfaction. Additionally, nanocarriers offer protection against UV rays, further adding to the overall benefits of the cosmeceutical product. Figure 1 represents various advantages of nanocarriers used in cosmeceuticals. Nanotechnology is also gaining importance due to their high penetration of actives in the deeper layers of skin. It can be said that nanotechnology is taking over all the drawbacks of the traditional products. Thus, nanocarriers discussed in this review are used in nanotechnology to deliver the active ingredient of the cosmeceutical product to the desired site.

Synthesis of Antibacterial Bioactive Compounds Using Linoleic Acid Extracted from Melon Seeds Oil and Evaluation of Its Waste Meal Ash for Fried Oil Regeneration

This work aimed to use linoleic acid extracted from melon seed oil for the development of biological compounds, and to use the ash of melon seed cake for fried oil treatment. Eight active compounds were developed using linoleic acid and the elucidation of their structure was established according to elemental analysis and spectral data. The developed compounds were tested for their antibacterial activity. The melon seed cake was carbonized for the treatment of fried oils. The melon seed oil was rich in linoleic acid (61.4%) and it contains several fatty acids including lauric, myristic, palmitic, palmitoleic, stearic, oleic, linolenic, arachidic, and paulinic in concentrations of 0.2%, 0.73%, 11.7%, 0.11%, 10.3%, 14.1%, 0.49%, 0.19%, and 0.1%, respectively. The extracted linoleic acid showed a high refractive index (1.471), iodine value (122.3 g I2/100 g), saponification (184.42 mg KOH/g), low peroxide value (3.9 meq/kg oil), polymer content (1.00%), polar contents (1.95%), and moisture content (42 g/kg). The melon seed ash was rich in several metals including magnesium (743.5 mg/kg), calcium (137 mg/kg), sodium (12.95 mg/kg), potassium (1040 mg/kg), chromium, manganese, iron, copper, zinc, cadmium, and mercury in concentrations of 0.072, 40.88, 19.29, 3.334, 8.21, 0.005, 0.005 mg/kg, respectively, as well as arsenic (0.09 mg/kg), lead (0.044 mg/kg), phosphorus (1222 mg/kg) and selenium (0.13 mg/kg) which they improved the physic-chemical properties of fried oils. Linoleic acid was used for the development of 9 compounds with antimicrobial activity against Gram-positive and Gram-negative bacteria. Additionally, the melon seed ash improved the chemical characteristic of used cotton and sunflower oils. Therefore, the linoleic acid extracted from melon seed oil is a promising source for the development of antibacterial agents and the leftover cake is promising for the production of adsorbent material suitable for fried oils treatment.

Graphical Abstract

Predicting Antioxidant Synergism via Artificial Intelligence and Benchtop Data

Lipid oxidation is a major issue affecting products containing unsaturated fatty acids as ingredients or components, leading to the formation of low molecular weight species with diverse functional groups that impart off-odors and off-flavors. Aiming to control this process, antioxidants are commonly added to these products, often deployed as combinations of two or more compounds, a strategy that allows for lowering the amount used while boosting the total antioxidant capacity of the formulation. While this approach allows for minimizing the potential organoleptic and toxic effects of these compounds, predicting how these mixtures of antioxidants will behave has traditionally been one of the most challenging tasks, often leading to simple additive, antagonistic, or synergistic effects. Approaches to understanding these interactions have been predominantly empirically driven but thus far, inefficient and unable to account for the complexity and multifaceted nature of antioxidant responses. To address this current gap in knowledge, we describe the use of an artificial intelligence model based on deep learning architecture to predict the type of interaction (synergistic, additive, and antagonistic) of antioxidant combinations. Here, each mixture was associated with a combination index value (CI) and used as input for our model, which was challenged against a test (n = 140) data set. Despite the encouraging preliminary results, this algorithm failed to provide accurate predictions of oxidation experiments performed in-house using binary mixtures of phenolic antioxidants and a lard sample. To overcome this problem, the AI algorithm was then enhanced with various amounts of experimental data (antioxidant power data assessed by the TBARS assay), demonstrating the importance of having chemically relevant experimental data to enhance the model's performance and provide suitable predictions with statistical relevance. We believe the proposed method could be used as an auxiliary tool in benchmark analysis routines, offering a novel strategy to enable broader and more rational predictions related to the behavior of antioxidant mixtures.

The in vitro effects of black soldier fly larvae (Hermitia illucens) oil as a high-functional active ingredient for inhibiting hyaluronidase, anti-oxidation benefits, whitening, and UVB protection

Objective: Larvae of Hermitia illucens, or black soldier fly larvae (BSFL), have been recognized for their high lipid yield with a remarkable fatty acid profile. BSFL oil (SFO) offers the added value of a low environmental footprint and a sustainable product. In this study, the characteristics and cosmetic-related activities of SFO were investigated and compared with rice bran oil, olive oil and krill oil which are commonly used in cosmetics and supplements. Methods: The physicochemical characteristics were determined including acid value, saponification value, unsaponifiable matter and water content of SFO. The fatty acid composition was determined using GC-MS equipped with TR-FAME. The in vitro antioxidant properties were determined using DPPH, FRAP and lipid peroxidation inhibition assays. Antihyaluronidase (anti-HAase) activity was measured by detecting enzyme activity and molecular docking of candidate compounds toward the HAase enzyme. The safety assessment towards normal human cells was determined using the MTT assay and the UVB protection upon UVB-irradiated fibroblasts was determined using the DCF-DA assay. The whitening effect of SFO was determined using melanin content inhibition. Results: SFO contains more than 60% polyunsaturated fatty acids followed by saturated fatty acids (up to 37%). The most abundant component found in SFO was linoleic acid (C18:2 n-6 cis). Multiple anti-oxidant mechanisms of SFO were discovered. In addition, SFO and krill oil prevented hyaluronic acid (HA) degradation via strong HAase inhibition comparable with the positive control, oleanolic acid. The molecular docking confirmed the binding interactions and molecular recognition of major free fatty acids toward HAase. Furthermore, SFO exhibited no cytotoxicity on primary human skin fibroblasts, HaCaT keratinocytes and PBMCs (IC50 values > 200 μg/mL). SFO possessed significant in-situ anti-oxidant activity in UVB-irradiated fibroblasts and the melanin inhibition activity as effective as well-known anti-pigmenting compounds (kojic acid and arbutin, p < 0.05). Conclusion: This study provides scientific support for various aspects of SFO. SFO can be considered an alternative oil ingredient in cosmetic products with potential implications for anti-skin aging, whitening and UVB protection properties, making it a potential candidate oil in the cosmetic industry.

A systematic review of natural products for skin applications: Targeting inflammation, wound healing, and photo-aging

BACKGROUND

Every day the skin is constantly exposed to several harmful factors that induce oxidative stress. When the cells are incapable to maintain the balance between antioxidant defenses and reactive oxygen species, the skin no longer can keep its integrity and homeostasis. Chronic inflammation, premature skin aging, tissue damage, and immunosuppression are possible consequences induced by sustained exposure to environmental and endogenous reactive oxygen species. Skin immune and non-immune cells together with the microbiome are essential to efficiently trigger skin immune responses to stress. For this reason, an ever-increasing demand for novel molecules capable of modulating immune functions in the skin has risen the level of their development, particularly in the field of natural product-derived molecules.

PURPOSE

In this review, we explore different classes of molecules that showed evidence in modulate skin immune responses, as well as their target receptors and signaling pathways. Moreover, we describe the role of polyphenols, polysaccharides, fatty acids, peptides, and probiotics as possible treatments for skin conditions, including wound healing, infection, inflammation, allergies, and premature skin aging.

METHODS

Literature was searched, analyzed, and collected using databases, including PubMed, Science Direct, and Google Scholar. The search terms used included "Skin", "wound healing", "natural products", "skin microbiome", "immunomodulation", "anti-inflammatory", "antioxidant", "infection", "UV radiation", "polyphenols", "polysaccharides", "fatty acids", "plant oils", "peptides", "antimicrobial peptides", "probiotics", "atopic dermatitis", "psoriasis", "auto-immunity", "dry skin", "aging", etc., and several combinations of these keywords.

RESULTS

Natural products offer different solutions as possible treatments for several skin conditions. Significant antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activities were reported, followed by the ability to modulate immune functions in the skin. Several membrane-bound immune receptors in the skin recognize diverse types of natural-derived molecules, promoting different immune responses that can improve skin conditions.

CONCLUSION

Despite the increasing progress in drug discovery, several limiting factors need future clarification. Understanding the safety, biological activities, and precise mechanisms of action is a priority as well as the characterization of the active compounds responsible for that. This review provides directions for future studies in the development of new molecules with important pharmaceutical and cosmeceutical value.

Comprehensive Phytochemical Analysis and Bioactivity Evaluation of Padina boergesenii: Unveiling Its Prospects as a Promising Cosmetic Component

Marine macroalgae, such as Padina boergesenii, are gaining recognition in the cosmetics industry as valuable sources of natural bioactive compounds. This study aimed to investigate the biochemical profile of P. boergesenii and evaluate its potential as a cosmetic ingredient. Fourier-transform infrared (FTIR), gas chromatography-mass spectrometry (GCMS), and high-resolution liquid chromatography-mass spectrometry quadrupole time-of-flight (HRLCMS QTOF) analyses were employed to assess the functional groups, phycocompounds, and beneficial compounds present in P. boergesenii. Pigment estimation, total phenol and protein content determination, DPPH antioxidant analysis, and tyrosinase inhibition assay were conducted to evaluate the extracts' ability to counteract oxidative stress and address hyperpigmentation concerns. Elemental composition and amino acid quantification were determined using inductively coupled plasma atomic emission spectrometry (ICP-AES) and HRLCMS, respectively. FTIR spectroscopy confirmed diverse functional groups, including halo compounds, alcohols, esters, amines, and acids. GCMS analysis identified moisturizing, conditioning, and anti-aging compounds such as long-chain fatty alcohols, fatty esters, fatty acids, and hydrocarbon derivatives. HRLCMS QTOF analysis revealed phenolic compounds, fatty acid derivatives, peptides, terpenoids, and amino acids with antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and skin-nourishing properties. Elemental analysis indicated varying concentrations of elements, with silicon (Si) being the most abundant and copper (Cu) being the least abundant. The total phenol content was 86.50 µg/mL, suggesting the presence of antioxidants. The total protein content was 113.72 µg/mL, indicating nourishing and rejuvenating effects. The ethanolic extract exhibited an IC50 value of 36.75 μg/mL in the DPPH assay, indicating significant antioxidant activity. The methanolic extract showed an IC50 value of 42.784 μg/mL. Furthermore, P. boergesenii extracts demonstrated 62.14% inhibition of tyrosinase activity. This comprehensive analysis underscores the potential of P. boergesenii as an effective cosmetic ingredient for enhancing skin health. Given the increasing use of seaweed-based bioactive components in cosmetics, further exploration of P. boergesenii's potential in the cosmetics industry is warranted to leverage its valuable properties.

Skin drug delivery using lipid vesicles: A starting guideline for their development

Lipid vesicles can provide a cost-effective enhancement of skin drug absorption when vesicle production process is optimised. It is an important challenge to design the ideal vesicle, since their properties and features are related, as changes in one affect the others. Here, we review the main components, preparation and characterization methods commonly used, and the key properties that lead to highly efficient vesicles for transdermal drug delivery purposes. We stand by size, deformability degree and drug loading, as the most important vesicle features that determine the further transdermal drug absorption. The interest in this technology is increasing, as demonstrated by the exponential growth of publications on the topic. Although long-term preservation and scalability issues have limited the commercialization of lipid vesicle products, freeze-drying and modern escalation methods overcome these difficulties, thus predicting a higher use of these technologies in the market and clinical practice.

A systematic review on the lipid composition of human hair

Hair lipid composition varies by ethnic hair type and by hair layer. Lipids in the cuticle, cortex, and medulla of the hair shaft provide a protective barrier to environmental and chemical damage, prevent hair breakage and desorption, and affect the elastic and tensile properties of hair. The aim of this systematic review is to provide an overview of the lipid composition and ethnic differences of human hair, effects of external damage on lipid content and properties, and changes in hair lipid composition associated with disease states. PubMed/MEDLINE was searched up to March 2021 according to PRISMA guidelines for articles discussing the lipid content of human hair and effects of physical, chemical, or environmental damage, and disease. Fifty-nine articles investigating the lipid content of hair were included for review. Lipids affect fluid permeability, hydration, strength, and texture of ethnic hair fibers. Lipid loss is accelerated by hair-damaging treatments such as bleach, dye, perm, straightening, and surfactant use, and sun and aging processes, leading to dehydrated, breakable, disordered, and dull hair. Diseases including acne, alopecia, and breast, gastric, prostate, lung, and rectal cancers display elevated hair lipid levels. Lipids are vital in protection against damage and maintenance of healthy hair. Further studies are needed to investigate the effects of lipids on the structural properties of ethnic hair, and changes in hair lipid composition with various dermatologic and systemic diseases.

Coating Materials to Increase the Stability of Liposomes

Liposomes carry various compounds with applications in pharmaceutical, food, and cosmetic fields, and the administration route is especially parenteral, oral, or transdermal. Liposomes are used to preserve and release the internal components, thus maintaining the properties of the compounds, the stability and shelf life of the encapsulated products, and their functional benefits. The main problem in obtaining liposomes at the industrial level is their low stability due to fragile phospholipid membranes. To increase the stability of liposomes, phospholipid bilayers have been modified or different coating materials have been developed and studied, both for liposomes with applications in the pharmaceutical field and liposomes in the food field. In the cosmetic field, liposomes need no additional coating because the liposomal formulation is intended to have a fast penetration into the skin. The aim of this review is to provide current knowledge regarding physical and chemical factors that influence stability, coating materials for liposomes with applications in the pharmaceutical and food fields to increase the stability of liposomes containing various sensitive compounds, and absorption of the liposomes and commercial liposomal products obtained through various technologies available on the market.

Influence of Vegetable Oils on In Vitro Performance of Lutein-Loaded Lipid Carriers for Skin Delivery: Nanostructured Lipid Carriers vs. Nanoemulsions

Nanostructured lipid carriers (NLC) were prepared from solid lipid (glyceryl monostearate, GMS) and vegetable oils, including palm oil (PO), rice bran oil (RBO) or virgin coconut oil (VCO), at different ratios (95:5, 90:10 and 80:20), while nanoemulsions (NE) were prepared with sole vegetable oils. After production, the particle size of the lutein-free NLC and NE was found to be between 100 and 150 nm and increased after loading with lutein. An increase in oil loading in NLC reduced the particle size and resulted in a less ordered lipid matrix and an increase in % entrapment efficiency. From the stability study, it was observed that the types of oils and oil content in the lipid matrix had an impact on the chemical stability of lutein. Regarding the release study, lutein-loaded NE showed higher release than lutein-loaded NLC. Both NLC and NE prepared from VCO exhibited higher release than those prepared from PO and RBO, respectively (p < 0.05). In contrast, among the formulations of NLC and NE, both lutein-loaded NLC and NE prepared from RBO showed the highest permeation through the human epidermis due to the skin enhancement effect of RBO. Based on all the results, the lipid nanocarriers composed of RBO could effectively enhance the chemical stability of lutein and promote drug penetration into the skin.

Mammalian derived lipocalin and secretoglobin respiratory allergens strongly bind ligands with potentially immune modulating properties

Allergens from furry animals frequently cause sensitization and respiratory allergic diseases. Most relevant mammalian respiratory allergens belong either to the protein family of lipocalins or secretoglobins. Their mechanism of sensitization remains largely unresolved. Mammalian lipocalin and secretoglobin allergens are associated with a function in chemical communication that involves abundant secretion into the environment, high stability and the ability to transport small volatile compounds. These properties are likely to contribute concomitantly to their allergenic potential. In this study, we aim to further elucidate the physiological function of lipocalin and secretoglobin allergens and link it to their sensitizing capacity, by analyzing their ligand-binding characteristics. We produced eight major mammalian respiratory allergens from four pet species in E.coli and compared their ligand-binding affinities to forty-nine ligands of different chemical classes by using a fluorescence-quenching assay. Furthermore, we solved the crystal-structure of the major guinea pig allergen Cav p 1, a typical lipocalin. Recombinant lipocalin and secretoglobin allergens are of high thermal stability with melting temperatures ranging from 65 to 90°C and strongly bind ligands with dissociation constants in the low micromolar range, particularly fatty acids, fatty alcohols and the terpene alcohol farnesol, that are associated with potential semiochemical and/or immune-modulating functions. Through the systematic screening of respiratory mammalian lipocalin and secretoglobin allergens with a large panel of potential ligands, we observed that total amino acid composition, as well as cavity shape and volume direct affinities to ligands of different chemical classes. Therefore, we were able to categorize lipocalin allergens over their ligand-binding profile into three sub-groups of a lipocalin clade that is associated with functions in chemical communication, thus strengthening the function of major mammalian respiratory allergens as semiochemical carriers. The promiscuous binding capability of hydrophobic ligands from environmental sources warrants further investigation regarding their impact on a molecule's allergenicity.

Molecular Formula Prediction for Chemical Filtering of 3D OrbiSIMS Datasets

Modern mass spectrometry techniques produce a wealth of spectral data, and although this is an advantage in terms of the richness of the information available, the volume and complexity of data can prevent a thorough interpretation to reach useful conclusions. Application of molecular formula prediction (MFP) to produce annotated lists of ions that have been filtered by their elemental composition and considering structural double bond equivalence are widely used on high resolving power mass spectrometry datasets. However, this has not been applied to secondary ion mass spectrometry data. Here, we apply this data interpretation approach to 3D OrbiSIMS datasets, testing it for a series of increasingly complex samples. In an organic on inorganic sample, we successfully annotated the organic contaminant overlayer separately from the substrate. In a more challenging purely organic human serum sample we filtered out both proteins and lipids based on elemental compositions, 226 different lipids were identified and validated using existing databases, and we assigned amino acid sequences of abundant serum proteins including albumin, fibronectin, and transferrin. Finally, we tested the approach on depth profile data from layered carbonaceous engine deposits and annotated previously unidentified lubricating oil species. Application of an unsupervised machine learning method on filtered ions after performing MFP from this sample uniquely separated depth profiles of species, which were not observed when performing the method on the entire dataset. Overall, the chemical filtering approach using MFP has great potential in enabling full interpretation of complex 3D OrbiSIMS datasets from a plethora of material types.

An updated review on efficacy and benefits of sweet almond, evening primrose and jojoba oils in skin care applications

Renewed consumer and industry interest in natural ingredients has led to a large growth of natural cosmetics. This has put pressure on formulation skills and product claims when it comes to using natural compounds. Taking a strategic and comprehensive approach in viewing natural ingredients, including natural oils, as 'active' ingredients rather than just providing for so-called 'natural' claims, aids both innovation and development. Given the ever-increasing consumer demand for natural ingredients, and more importantly the demand for effective natural ingredients including plant oils, it is important for the cosmetic industry to re-evaluate them in this context. The objectives of this review are to provide an update of three popular cosmetic plant oils - Sweet Almond, Evening Primrose, and Jojoba - in terms of their cosmetic applications as 'active' ingredients. This review highlights the activity of these oils, in the management of dry skin, ageing skin, juvenile skin, atopic dermatitis, scalp conditions, and their wider potential. Attention is given to formulation considerations where the content of these oils impacts product oxidation, skin penetration and stratum corneum homeostasis. Benefits of these oils have been well documented both pre-clinically and clinically. Historically, they have been used for hundreds if not thousands of years for their management and treatment of various skin and other ailments. Given the discrepancies in some clinical data presented for a variety of dermatoses, the importance of the choice of oil and how to formulate with them within the context of the epidermal barrier function, skin penetration, and toxicity, cannot be underestimated. Care should be taken in terms of the quality and stability of theses oils, as well as ensuring best formulation type, if the reported activities of these oils are to be achieved with consistency. Despite discrepancies in the literature and questionable study designs, it is clear, that Sweet Almond, Evening Primrose and Jojoba oils, do have skin care benefits for both adult and juvenile applications. They are effective ingredients for skin care preparations to strengthen stratum corneum integrity, recovery, and lipid ratio. Nevertheless, further experimental data are required concerning the impact on stratum corneum physiology and structure.

Multistage fractionation of pine bark by liquid and supercritical carbon dioxide

Multistage fractionation of pine bark was performed using subcritical and supercritical CO₂ at increasing pressures and temperatures. In total, seven fractions were collected, which demonstrated different enrichments of families of compounds. In particular, subcritical CO₂ yielded 41% of the total extract in which unsaturated fatty acids represented the most abundant family. The subsequent five supercritical steps increased the recovery of sterol esters, wax esters and resin acids at higher temperatures and pressures, reaching 80% of the total extractable mass. In the last step, using ethanol as a co-solvent, an additional 20% of extract was recovered, which was enriched with phenolics and glycerol. A full characterisation of the extracts was accomplished by high-temperature GC-MS/FID using four internal standards, which were representative of the main classes of compounds contained in the pine bark extract.

Liposomal nanoparticles based on steroids and isoprenoids for nonviral gene delivery

Natural lipid molecules are an essential part of life as they constitute the membrane of cells and organelle. In most of these cases, the hydrophobicity of natural lipids is contributed by alkyl chains. Although natural lipids with a nonfatty acid hydrophobic backbone are quite rare, steroids and isoprenoids have been strong candidates as part of a lipid. Over the years, these natural molecules (steroid and isoprenoids) have been used to make either lipid-based nanoparticle or functionalize in such a way that it could form nano assembly alone for therapeutic delivery. Here we mainly focus on the synthetic functionalized version of these natural molecules which forms cationic liposomal nanoparticles (LipoNPs). These cationic LipoNPs were further used to deliver various negatively charged genetic materials in the form of pDNA, siRNA, mRNA (nucleic acids), and so on. This article is categorized under: Biology-Inspired Nanomaterials > Lipid-Based Structures.

Automated image analysis method for oil-release test of lipid-based materials

We present an automated method to determine oil release from lipid-based materials. Oil-release tests can provide information regarding the ability to retain oil within the structuring network of lipid-based materials. This test provides a first insight into the stability of these materials and their possible applications in food, cosmetic, and pharmaceutical products. The method presented features a simple setup comprising a camera that automatically captures images of the evolution of the oil stain released from lipid-based materials placed on a filter paper. Image postprocessing is performed with two custom-made scripts developed for the freeware application ImageJ. The scripts allow direct calculation of the oil-stain area from all images stored in a folder returning as output numerical values in a table. This method was shown to be:•

inexpensive, as the employed tools and equipment are available in most laboratories both in academia and industry,

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self-running, as the method automatically captures images at predefined time intervals for a certain time span,

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practical, as manual-image analysis is unnecessary (200 images can be automatically analyzed in 3 min).

Extraction of Fatty Acids and Phenolics from Mastocarpus stellatus Using Pressurized Green Solvents

Polyunsaturated fatty acids are well known for their protective properties in relation to different skin diseases. Although seaweeds possess a low lipid fraction, they could act as an alternative renewable source of polyunsaturated fatty acids whenever other valuable seaweed components are also valorized. In this study, a biorefinery process using Mastocarpus stellatus as a model seaweed was proposed. The process started with the supercritical carbon dioxide extraction of the lipid and phenolic fractions. The influence of pressure during extraction with pure supercritical CO₂ was studied while operating at a selected temperature and solvent flow rate. Kinetic data obtained during the ethanol-modified supercritical CO₂ extraction were fitted to the spline model. Sequential processing was proposed with (i) pure CO₂ to obtain a product with 30% PUFA content and ω-3:ω-6 ratio 1:1, (ii) ethanol-modified CO₂ to extract phenolics, and (iii) microwave-assisted subcritical water extraction operating under previously optimized conditions for the extraction of phenolics, carrageenan and protein fractions. The composition of the supercritical extracts showed potential for use in both dietary and topical applications in skin care products. The remaining solids are suitable for the extraction of other valuable fractions.

Lipid-Polymeric Films: Composition, Production and Applications in Wound Healing and Skin Repair

The use of lipids in the composition of polymeric-based films for topical administration of bioactive ingredients is a recent research topic; while few products are commercially available, films containing lipids represent a strategic area for the development of new products. Some lipids are usually used in polymeric-based film formulations due to their plasticizing action, with a view to improving the mechanical properties of these films. On the other hand, many lipids have healing, antimicrobial, anti-inflammatory, anti-aging properties, among others, that make them even more interesting for application in the medical-pharmaceutical field. This manuscript discusses the production methods of these films both on a laboratory and at industrial scales, the properties of the developed biopolymers, and their advantages for the development of dermatologic and cosmetic products.

Design, Preparation, and Characterization of Effective Dermal and Transdermal Lipid Nanoparticles: A Review

Limited permeability through the stratum corneum (SC) is a major obstacle for numerous skin care products. One promising approach is to use lipid nanoparticles as they not only facilitate penetration across skin but also avoid the drawbacks of conventional skin formulations. This review focuses on solid lipid nanoparticles (SLNs), nanostructured lipid nanocarriers (NLCs), and nanoemulsions (NEs) developed for topical and transdermal delivery of active compounds. A special emphasis in this review is placed on composition, preparation, modifications, structure and characterization, mechanism of penetration, and recent application of these nanoparticles. The presented data demonstrate the potential of these nanoparticles for dermal and transdermal delivery.