Transdermal delivery systems in cosmetics

Glycated Cross-Linked Collagen Membranes with Tunable Permeability and Multifunctional Properties for Tissue Regeneration

Interface tissue engineering focuses on developing bioengineered constructs that integrate with the body's natural tissues. Collagen-based membranes, due to their inherent bioactivity and compatibility, are widely used in tissue engineering applications such as wound healing, guided tissue regeneration, and guided bone regeneration. This study investigates the in vitro development and characterization of methylglyoxal (MGO)-cross-linked collagen membranes, which exhibit enhanced mechanical strength, thermal stability, hydrophilicity, and tunable permeability. To evaluate the properties of these membranes, we employed several techniques, including scanning electron microscopy for morphological analysis, differential scanning calorimetry for thermal stability assessment, tensile strength tests for mechanical evaluation, water contact angle measurements for wettability, dielectric analysis for moisture absorption, and permeability assays using fluorescein diffusion. Additionally, the fibroblast barrier function was assessed using a red cell tracking dye with confocal microscopy. The ability to fine-tune the properties of collagen membranes through MGO cross-linking opens new possibilities for their use in tissue engineering. These membranes can serve as effective barriers in guided tissue regeneration and guided bone regeneration, promoting tissue regeneration and healing by preventing undesired cell migration and creating a conducive environment for bone and tissue growth. MGO-cross-linked collagen membranes offer a promising solution for enhancing the functionality and efficacy of bioengineered constructs in tissue engineering. Their improved mechanical and thermal properties, coupled with their biocompatibility, make them ideal candidates for various clinical applications.

Continuous Skin Rejuvenation by Combining Nonablative Fractional Laser With Daily Application of a Multibeneficial Composition Formulation: A Blinded Randomized Clinical Trial Study

Background and Aims

Skin aging is a common concern among individuals, and laser treatments are recognized as one of the most effective approaches to mitigate the aging process. The study aims to compare a multibeneficial formula serum versus a blank formulation in achieving maximum efficacy following a single treatment of nonablative fractional laser for facial skin rejuvenation.

Methods

This study was a double-blind, split-face, monocentric, randomized clinical trial in China (September 24, 2023-March 07, 2024), and 37 patients seeking the Fotona 4D laser treatment for aging-related facial changes were enrolled. After one full-face laser treatment, each patient applied the test serum to one side and the blank formulation to the other, randomly, twice daily for 28 days. Two dermatologists assessed facial skin quality and aging signs at baseline and Day 0 (D0, immediately after the laser treatment), D3, D7, D14, and D28. Noninvasive measurement and self-assessment questionnaires were also administered at each visit. According to the types of variables, appropriate statistical tests, including the Friedman test, ANOVA test, and Wilcoxon signed-rank test, were used to examine the within-groups or between-groups differences.

Results

Thirty-three women, aged 35-49 years, completed the study. After 28 days of the test serum application, the visual clinical scores rated by investigators showed more significantly beneficial changes on the test side than those on the control. More significant improvements in index parameters for the test sides were also found both in wrinkles with a 21.14% decrease of SEw value from the baseline and in elasticity with a 14.99% decrease of R2 value, while the corresponding reductions were 3.83% for SEw and 4.10% for R2 found on the control sides. The reduction of the nasolabial folds area proportion, analyzed by Primos, was 10.61% on the test sides and 3.39% on the control. No adverse events were reported.

Conclusion

The serum with a multi-beneficial composition can contribute to achieving a more significant and sustainable efficacy after the Fotona 4D treatment in skin rejuvenation improvement. ClinicalTrials.gov ID: NCT06140628.

Evaluating dermal absorption of perfluorooctanoic acid (PFOA) and implications for other per- and polyfluoroalkyl substances (PFAS)

To date, only four studies directly measured dermal absorption kinetics of perfluorooctanoic acid (PFOA) in human skin. Reported kinetic parameters spanned two to five orders of magnitude, demonstrating the need to determine the causes of variability and identify the most appropriate dermal absorption factors for use in exposure assessments. We evaluated the reliability and physiological relevance of studies that measured PFOA fractional absorption, steady-state flux (Jss), and dermal permeability coefficient (Kp). We verified whether the reported kinetic parameters were measured under appropriate conditions (i.e., fractional absorption under finite dose conditions, and Jss and Kp under infinite dose conditions). We recommend the following values measured at the approximate pH of the skin, and in aqueous solvents or relevant consumer product matrices, for use as provisional values in PFOA exposure assessments: 1.6% fractional absorption under finite dose conditions, and 0.132 μg/cm2-hr and 0.000044 cm/h for Jss and Kp, respectively, under infinite dose conditions. Using the recommended absorption factors, we estimated PFOA exposures in children from soil and water via dermal and ingestion routes. Our results indicate low dermal absorption of PFOA relative to ingestion, and low dermal absorption is expected for per- and polyfluoroalkyl substances (PFAS) with physicochemical properties similar to PFOA.

An overview of phospholipid enriched-edge activator-based vesicle nanocarriers: new paradigms to treat skin cancer

Skin cancer poses a significant global health concern necessitating innovative treatment approaches. This review explores the potential of vesicle nanoformulation incorporating EA (edge activators) to overcome barriers in skin cancer management. The skin's inherent protective mechanisms, specifically the outermost layer called the stratum corneum and the network of blood arteries, impede the permeation of drugs. Phospholipid-enriched EA based nanoformulation offer a promising solution by enhancing drug penetration through skin barriers. EAs like Span 80, Span 20, Tween 20, and sodium cholate etc., enhance vesicles deformability, influencing drug permeation. This review discusses topical application of drugs treat skin cancer, highlighting challenges connected with the conventional liposome and the significance of using EA-based nanoformulation in overcoming these challenges. Furthermore, it provides insights into various EA characteristics, critical insights, clinical trials, and patents. The review also offers a concise overview of composition, preparation techniques, and the application of EA-based nanoformulation such as transfersomes, transliposomes, transethosomes, and transniosomes for delivering drugs to treat skin cancer. Overall, this review intends to accelerate the development of formulations that incorporate EA, which would further improve topical drug delivery and enhance therapeutic outcomes in skin cancer treatment.

Formulation and Ex Vivo Evaluation of Ivermectin Within Different Nano-Drug Delivery Vehicles for Transdermal Drug Delivery

Background/Objectives: Ivermectin gained widespread attention as the "miracle drug" during the coronavirus disease 2019 (COVID-19) pandemic. Its inclusion in the 21st World Health Organization (WHO) List of Essential Medicines is attributed to its targeted anti-helminthic response, high efficacy, cost-effectiveness and favorable safety profile. Since the late 2000s, this bio-inspired active pharmaceutical ingredient (API) gained renewed interest for its diverse therapeutic capabilities. However, producing ivermectin formulations does remain challenging due to its poor water solubility, resulting in low bioavailability after oral administration. Therefore, the transdermal drug delivery of ivermectin was considered to overcome these challenges, which are observed after oral administration. Methods: Ivermectin was incorporated in a nano-emulsion, nano-emulgel and a colloidal suspension as ivermectin-loaded nanoparticles. The nano-drug delivery vehicles were optimized, characterized and evaluated through in vitro membrane release studies, ex vivo skin diffusion studies and tape-stripping to determine whether ivermectin was successfully released from its vehicle and delivered transdermally and/or topically throughout the skin. This study concluded with cytotoxicity tests using the methyl thiazolyl tetrazolium (MTT) and neutral red (NR) assays on both human immortalized epidermal keratinocytes (HaCaT) and human immortalized dermal fibroblasts (BJ-5ta). Results: Ivermectin was successfully released from each vehicle, delivered transdermally and topically throughout the skin and demonstrated little to no cytotoxicity at concentrations that diffused through the skin. Conclusions: The type of nano-drug delivery vehicle used to incorporate ivermectin influences its delivery both topically and transdermally, highlighting the dynamic equilibrium between the vehicle, the API and the skin.

An Overview of Film-Forming Emulsions for Dermal and Transdermal Drug Delivery

Drug delivery through the skin is a widely used therapeutic method for the treatment of local dermatologic conditions. Dermal and transdermal methods of drug delivery offer numerous advantages, but some of the most important aspects of drug absorption through the skin need to be considered. Film-forming systems (FFS) represent a new mode of sustained drug delivery that can be used to replace traditional topical formulations such as creams, ointments, pastes, or patches. They are available in various forms, including solutions, gels, and emulsions, and can be categorised as film-forming gels and film-forming emulsions. Film-forming emulsions (FFE) are designed as oil-in-water (O/W) emulsions that form a film with oil droplets encapsulated in a dry polymer matrix, thus maintaining their dispersed nature. They offer several advantages, including improved solubility, bioavailability and chemical stability of lipophilic drugs. In addition, they could improve the penetration and diffusion of drugs through the skin and enhance their absorption at the target site due to the nature of the components used in the formulation. The aim of this review is to provide an up-to-date compilation of the technologies used in film-forming emulsions to support their development and availability on the market as well as the development of new pharmaceutical forms.

Design Principles and Applications of Ionic Liquids for Transdermal Drug Delivery

Ionic liquids (ILs) are salts with melting points typically <100 °C, composed of specific anions and cations. Recently, IL application has expanded into material engineering and biomedicine. Due to their unique properties, ILs have garnered significant interest in pharmacological research as solubilizers, transdermal absorption enhancers, antibacterial agents, and stabilizers of insoluble pharmaceutical active ingredients. The improvement of skin permeability by ILs is closely associated with their specific physicochemical characteristics, which are identified by their ionic composition. However, the existing literature on transdermal medication administration is insufficient in terms of a comprehensive knowledge base. This review provides a comprehensive assessment of the design principles involved in IL synthesis. Additionally, it discusses the methods utilized to assess skin permeability and provides a focused outline of IL application in transdermal drug administration.

Skin Structure, Physiology, and Pathology in Topical and Transdermal Drug Delivery

Several industries are increasingly focused on enhancing the delivery of active ingredients through the skin to optimize therapeutic outcomes. By facilitating the penetration of active ingredients through the skin barrier, these enhancers can significantly improve the efficacy of various formulations, ranging from skincare products to therapeutic agents targeting systemic circulation. As the understanding of skin physiology and the mechanisms of drug absorption deepen, these industries are adopting permeation enhancers more widely, ultimately leading to better patient outcomes and expanded treatment options. However, the structure and physiological function of the skin can vary according to different factors, such as the area of the body and between individuals. These variations, along with external environmental exposures, aging and pathological conditions, introduce complexities that must be carefully considered when designing effective delivery systems. Considering the intricacies of skin structure and physiology, tailoring systems to account for regional differences, individual variability, and changes induced by environmental factors or disease is critical to optimizing therapeutic outcomes. This review discusses the features of skin structure, physiology, and pathologies, as well as the application of permeation enhancers in these contexts. Furthermore, it addresses the use of animal skin models in transdermal delivery and dermatological studies, along with the latest developments in this field.

Tailored 3D Agarose-Well Integrated with Human Skin Equivalents for Enhanced Skin Penetration Assessment

We developed a tailored 3D Agarose-well system integrated with reconstructed human skin equivalents to enhance skin penetration assessments. This system addresses common limitations in traditional trans-well reconstructions, such as dermal layer contraction and limited lateral diffusion, by entangling collagen fibrils within the Agarose-well. We evaluated the penetration behavior of three peptides, with and without skin-penetrating peptide (SPP) sequences, alongside adenosine, a known anti-wrinkle agent. Despite a SPP having a molecular weight approximately four times greater than that of adenosine, its kinetic constant was similar, with values of about 39 and 34, respectively. Moreover, this living skin equivalent system not only allowed for the evaluation of adenosine penetration, but also demonstrated its biological effects, with adenosine significantly enhancing procollagen synthesis by approximately 23% compared to the control. Overall, this novel strategy holds the potential for tailoring 3D Agarose-wells and advancing high-performance gel development, making it a promising approach for applications in tissue engineering, medical science, regenerative medicine, and cosmetics.

Solid Lipid Nanoparticles Incorporated with Retinol and Pentapeptide-18-Optimization, Characterization, and Cosmetic Application

Solid lipid nanoparticles (SLNs) incorporated with retinol and oligopeptide can have a full spectrum of effects on the skin as a compatible combination of ingredients with broad anti-aging properties. The research's main objective was to ensure the stability of lipid nanocarriers containing retinol and peptide due to the planned use of this dispersion as a cosmetic raw material. To confirm the effectiveness of method optimization (high shear homogenization, HSH) and proper selection of substrates, SLN dispersions were obtained in three combinations: 1-non-incorporated SLNs; 2-SLNs containing only retinol; 3-SLNs containing retinol and pentapeptide-18; these were then stored at different temperatures (4, 25, 45 °C) for 4 weeks. The desired values of the physicochemical parameters of the optimized dispersion of lipid nanoparticles incorporated with retinol and oligopeptide over the required storage period were confirmed: mean particle size (Z-Ave) = 134.7 ± 0.3 nm; polydispersity index (PDI) = 0.269 ± 0.017 [-]; zeta potential (ZP) = 42.7 ± 1.2 mV (after 4 weeks at 25 °C). The results confirmed the proper selection of the SLN production method and the effectiveness of the optimization performed. The possibility of using the obtained raw material as an ingredient in cosmetic products with anti-aging properties was indicated.

Lipid-based nanoparticles as a promising treatment for the skin cancer

The prevalence of skin disorders, especially cancer, is increasing worldwide. Several factors are involved in causing skin cancer, but ultraviolet (UV) light, including sunlight and tanning beds, are considered the leading cause. Different methods such as chemotherapy, radiotherapy, cryotherapy, and photodynamic therapy are mostly used for the skin cancer treatment. However, drug resistance and toxicity against cancer cells are related to these treatments. Lipid-nanoparticles have attracted significant interest as delivery systems due to non-invasive and targeted delivery based on the type of active drug. However, the stratum corneum, the outer layer of the skin, is inherently impervious to drugs. Due to their ability to penetrate the deep layers of the skin, skin delivery systems are capable of delivering drugs to target cells in a protected manner. The aim of this review was to examine the properties and applications of nanoliposomes used in the treatment and prevention of numerous types of skin cancer.

Development and Efficacy Evaluation of Innovative Cosmetic Formulations with Caryocar brasiliense Fruit Pulp Oil Encapsulated in Freeze-Dried Liposomes

Encapsulation and drying technologies allow the engineering of innovative raw materials from plant biodiversity, with potential applications in pharmaceutical and cosmetic fields. Lipid-based nanoencapsulation stands out for its efficiency, ease of production, and versatility in encapsulating substances, whether hydrophilic or lipophilic. This work aimed at encapsulating pequi oil in liposomes and freeze-dried liposomes to enhance its stability and functional benefits, such as skin hydration and anti-aging effects, for use in innovative cosmetic formulations. Pequi oil-extracted from the Caryocar brasiliense fruit pulp, a plant species from Brazilian plant biodiversity-is rich in secondary metabolites and fatty acids. Liposomes and dried liposomes offer controlled production processes and seamless integration into cosmetic formulations. The physicochemical analysis of the developed liposomes confirmed that the formulations are homogeneous and electrokinetically stable, as evidenced by consistent particle size distribution and zeta potential values, respectively. The gel-type formulations loaded with the dried liposomes exhibit enhanced skin hydration, improved barrier function, and refined microrelief, indicating improvements in skin conditions. These results highlight the potential of dried liposomes containing pequi oil for the development of innovative cosmeceutical products. This research contributes to the valorization of Brazilian biodiversity by presenting an innovative approach to leveraging the dermatological benefits of pequi oil in cosmetic applications.

Transdermal Drug Delivery Systems: A Focused Review of the Physical Methods of Permeation Enhancement

The skin is the body's largest organ and serves as a site of administration for various medications. Transdermal drug delivery systems have several advantages over traditional delivery systems. It has both local and systemic therapeutic properties. Controlled plasma drug levels, reduced dosing frequency, and avoidance of hepatic first-pass metabolism are just a few of these systems' advantages. To achieve maximum efficacy, it is critical to understand the kinetics, physiochemical properties of the drug moiety, and drug transport route. This manuscript focused on the principles of various physical means to facilitate transdermal drug delivery. Some examples are iontophoresis, electrophoresis, photomechanical waves, ultrasound, needleless injections, and microneedles. Mechanical, chemical, magnetic, and electrical energy are all used in physical methods. A major advantage of physical methods is their capability to abbreviate pain, which can be used for effective disease management. Further investigation should be carried out at the clinical level to understand these methods for effective drug delivery.

The Effect of Nanobubbles on Transdermal Applications

In the present work, a new method for dermal delivery using nanobubbles (NBs) is investigated. Oxygen NBs are generated in deionized water and used to produce cosmetic formulations with hyaluronic acid as an active ingredient. Nanobubbles result in the improvement of the effect and penetration of the active ingredient through Strat-M, a synthetic membrane that resembles human skin. Experiments conducted with the Franz Cell device confirm the greater penetration of the active ingredient into Strat-M due to NBs, compared to cosmetic formulations that do not contain NBs. The effect of NBs was further examined by measuring UV-Vis and FTIR spectra. A possible mechanism was outlined, too. It was also found that NBs do not change the pH or the FTIR spectrum of the cosmetic serum indicating non-toxicity.

Effects of Investigational Moisturizers on the Skin Barrier and Microbiome following Exposure to Environmental Aggressors: A Randomized Clinical Trial and Ex Vivo Analysis

The skin microbiota barrier participates in skin barrier function in addition to the physical, chemical, and immunological protective barriers, and is affected by environmental aggressors and skincare regimens. To better understand the exact effects of real-life environmental conditions on the skin and determine the protective methods, this study investigates the effects of three topical cosmetic moisturizers (water gel moisturizers with/without yeast extract (Moisturizers K and C) and a thick-emulsion cream moisturizer (Moisturizer L)) on clinical and skin microbiome endpoints in the presence of environmental aggressors during an 8-week, randomized controlled, triple-blind clinical trial with 110 participants, and molecular- as well as biomarker-level endpoints on ex vivo skin explants after exposure to simulate urban environmental conditions. The results show that all moisturizers are well-tolerated and improve skin barrier function and surface moisture content from the baseline, and the improvement is maintained at the last analysis point (3 days after trial completion). Compared with the untreated control areas (samples taken from the upper chest), treatment with Moisturizer K prevented a reduction in bacterial and fungal richness, and increased the change ratio of the relative abundance of commensal bacteria, such as Staphylococcus epidermidis and Ralstonia, at the treated sites (samples taken from the forehead). Moreover, Moisturizer K-treated ex vivo skin explants had higher levels of caspase 14 (a marker of skin barrier function), collagen I, and elastin (structure components), and lower levels of aryl hydrocarbon receptor (AHR; activated by air pollutants) and interleukin-6 (IL-6) than those in explants treated with other moisturizers and in the untreated areas of the skin. These results suggest that a skin postbiotic moisturizer with yeast extract supports the regulation of the skin's microbiome balance and may provide a holistic barrier (involving skin microbiome, physical, chemical, and immune barriers) to protect the skin against environmental aggressors.

Systematic Review on Transdermal/Topical Cannabidiol Trials: A Reconsidered Way Forward

Introduction: This systematic review aimed to assess efficacy and safety for skin-applied formulations containing CBD. Methods: Bibliographic and clinical trial registries were searched for interventional human trials using cutaneously administered CBD or reported plasma CBD concentrations (any species). Results: Eight of 544 articles fitted the selection criteria: 3 placebo-controlled randomized and 5 single-arm trials. Eleven more studies were found in clinical trial databases but not accessible. Symptoms targeted were dermatopathologies or safety (two studies), pain (two), and behavior (one). Doses were 50-250 mg or 0.075-1.0% CBD, but coformulated with other ingredients. Risk of bias was high and reporting deficiencies further compromised data reliability. Diverse methodologies and formulations hampered syntheses for CBD dose, efficacy, and safety. Plasma CBD levels in dogs and rodents were 0.01-5 μM translating to <100 nM free, unbound CBD in humans. Adverse events were uncommon and mild, but meaningless without CBD's contribution to efficacy data. Achievable free CBD plasma concentrations ∼100 nM can interact predominantly with high-affinity CBD targets, for example, TRPA1 and TRPM8 membrane channels that are abundantly expressed in pathological conditions. Even if reached, higher CBD concentrations on less susceptible targets risk complex and unsafe CBD therapy. A conceptual framework is proposed where dermal capillary loops create sinking for topical CBD demonstrating parallels between topical and transdermal CBD administration. Conclusions: Users risk generalizing inadequately designed trials to all CBD preparations. New clinical trials are urgently needed: they must demonstrate that outcomes are solely from CBD pharmacology, are reliable, unbiased, safe, and comparable. Measurements of sustained plasma CBD levels are mandatory, irrespective of administration route for successful translation from in vitro systems that express human molecular targets. Placebos must be appropriate. Transcutaneous and topical formulations need preliminary in vitro studies to optimize CBD skin penetration. Then, users can rationally balance efficacy against potential harms and cost-effectiveness of CBD formulations.

Methodologies to Evaluate the Hair Follicle-Targeted Drug Delivery Provided by Nanoparticles

Nanotechnology has been investigated for treatments of hair follicle disorders mainly because of the natural accumulation of solid nanoparticles in the follicular openings following a topical application, which provides a drug "targeting effect". Despite the promising results regarding the therapeutic efficacy of topically applied nanoparticles, the literature has often presented controversial results regarding the targeting of hair follicle potential of nanoformulations. A closer look at the published works shows that study parameters such as the type of skin model, skin sections analyzed, employed controls, or even the extraction methodologies differ to a great extent among the studies, producing either unreliable results or precluding comparisons altogether. Hence, the present study proposes to review different skin models and methods for quantitative and qualitative analysis of follicular penetration of nano-entrapped drugs and their influence on the obtained results, as a way of providing more coherent study protocols for the intended application.

Chitosan capped-gold nanoparticles as skin penetration enhancer for small molecules: A study in porcine skin

Skin is considered one of the most convenient sites for drug administration. The present study evaluated the effect of gold nanoparticles stabilized by chitosan (CS-AuNPs) and citrate ions (Ci-AuNPs) on skin permeation of sodium fluorescein (NaFI) and rhodamine b base (RhB) as small model hydrophilic and lipophilic permeants, respectively. CS-AuNPs and Ci-AuNPs were characterized by transmitted electron microscopy (TEM) and dynamic light scattering (DLS). Skin permeation was investigated using porcine skin with diffusion cells and confocal laser scanning microscopy (CLSM). The CS-AuNPs and Ci-AuNPs were spherical-shaped nanosized particles (38.4±0.7 and 32.2±0.7 nm, respectively). The zeta potential of CS-AuNPs was positive (+30.7±1.2 mV) whereas that of Ci-AuNPs was negative (-60.2±0.4 mV). The skin permeation study revealed that CS-AuNPs could enhance the permeation of NaFI with enhancement ratio (ER) of 38.2±7.5, and the effect was superior to that of Ci-AuNPs. CLSM visualization suggested that skin permeation was enhanced by improving the delivery through the transepidermal pathway. However, the permeability of RhB, a lipophilic molecule, was not significantly affected by CS-AuNPs and Ci-AuNPs. Moreover, CS-AuNPs had no cytotoxic toward human skin fibroblast cells. Therefore, CS-AuNPs are a promising skin permeation enhancer of small polar compounds.

Nanogel Containing Gamma-Oryzanol-Loaded Nanostructured Lipid Carriers and TiO2/MBBT: A Synergistic Nanotechnological Approach of Potent Natural Antioxidants and Nanosized UV Filters for Skin Protection

The human skin is a recurring target of external aggressions, such as UV radiation, leading to exacerbation of the aging process and the occurrence of skin diseases, such as cancer. Hence, preventive measures should be taken to protect it against these aggressions, consequently decreasing the chance of disease development. In the present study, a topical xanthan gum nanogel containing gamma-oryzanol-loaded nanostructured lipid carriers (NLCs) and nanosized UV filters TiO₂ and methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol (MBBT) was developed to assess their synergistic potential in having multifunctional skin beneficial properties. The developed NLCs contained the natural-based solid lipids shea butter and beeswax, liquid lipid carrot seed oil, and the potent antioxidant gamma-oryzanol, with an optimum particle size for topical application (<150 nm), good homogeneity (PDI = 0.216), high zeta potential (-34.9 mV), suitable pH value (6), good physical stability, high encapsulation efficiency (90%), and controlled release. The final formulation, a nanogel containing the developed NLCs and the nano UV filters, showed high long-term storage stability and high photoprotection ability (SPF = 34) and resulted in no skin irritation or sensitization (rat model). Hence, the developed formulation showed good skin protection and compatibility, demonstrating promise as a new platform for the future generation of natural-based cosmeceuticals.

The Science of Selecting Excipients for Dermal Self-Emulsifying Drug Delivery Systems

Self-emulsification is considered a formulation technique that has proven capacity to improve oral drug delivery of poorly soluble drugs by advancing both solubility and bioavailability. The capacity of these formulations to produce emulsions after moderate agitation and dilution by means of water phase addition provides a simplified method to improve delivery of lipophilic drugs, where prolonged drug dissolution in the aqueous environment of the gastro-intestinal (GI) tract is known as the rate-limiting step rendering decreased drug absorption. Additionally, spontaneous emulsification has been reported as an innovative topical drug delivery system that enables successful crossing of mucus membranes as well as skin. The ease of formulation generated by the spontaneous emulsification technique itself is intriguing due to the simplified production procedure and unlimited upscaling possibilities. However, spontaneous emulsification depends solely on selecting excipients that complement each other in order to create a vehicle aimed at optimizing drug delivery. If excipients are not compatible or unable to spontaneously transpire into emulsions once exposed to mild agitation, no self-emulsification will be achieved. Therefore, the generalized view of excipients as inert bystanders facilitating delivery of an active compound cannot be accepted when selecting excipients needed to produce self-emulsifying drug delivery systems (SEDDSs). Hence, this review describes the excipients needed to generate dermal SEDDSs as well as self-double-emulsifying drug delivery systems (SDEDDSs); how to consider combinations that complement the incorporated drug(s); and an overview of using natural excipients as thickening agents and skin penetration enhancers.

Recent Advances in Biocompatible Ionic Liquids in Drug Formulation and Delivery

The development of effective drug formulations and delivery systems for newly developed or marketed drug molecules remains a significant challenge. These drugs can exhibit polymorphic conversion, poor bioavailability, and systemic toxicity, and can be difficult to formulate with traditional organic solvents due to acute toxicity. Ionic liquids (ILs) are recognized as solvents that can improve the pharmacokinetic and pharmacodynamic properties of drugs. ILs can address the operational/functional challenges associated with traditional organic solvents. However, many ILs are non-biodegradable and inherently toxic, which is the most significant challenge in developing IL-based drug formulations and delivery systems. Biocompatible ILs comprising biocompatible cations and anions mainly derived from bio-renewable sources are considered a green alternative to both conventional ILs and organic/inorganic solvents. This review covers the technologies and strategies developed to design biocompatible ILs, focusing on the design of biocompatible IL-based drug formulations and delivery systems, and discusses the advantages of these ILs in pharmaceutical and biomedical applications. Furthermore, this review will provide guidance on transitioning to biocompatible ILs rather than commonly used toxic ILs and organic solvents in fields ranging from chemical synthesis to pharmaceutics.

An Overview of Nanoemulgels for Bioavailability Enhancement in Inflammatory Conditions via Topical Delivery

The anti-inflammatory drugs that are generally available possess the disadvantage of hydrophobicity, which leads to poor permeability and erratic bioavailability. Nanoemulgels (NEGs) are novel drug delivery systems that aim to improve the solubility and permeability of drugs across the biological membrane. The nano-sized droplets in the nanoemulsion enhance the permeation of the formulation, along with surfactants and co-surfactants that act as permeation enhancers and can further improve permeability. The hydrogel component of NEG helps to increase the viscosity and spreadability of the formulation, making it ideal for topical application. Moreover, oils that have anti-inflammatory properties, such as eucalyptus oil, emu oil and clove oil, are used as oil phases in the preparation of the nanoemulsion, which shows a synergistic effect with active moiety and enhances its overall therapeutic profile. This leads to the creation of hydrophobic drugs that possess enhanced pharmacokinetic and pharmacodynamic properties, and simultaneously avoid systemic side effects in individuals with external inflammatory disorders. The nanoemulsion's effective spreadability, ease of application, non-invasive administration, and subsequent ability to achieve patient compliance make it more suitable for topical application in the combat of many inflammatory disorders, such as dermatitis, psoriasis, rheumatoid arthritis, osteoarthritis and so on. Although the large-scale practical application of NEG is limited due to problems regarding its scalability and thermodynamic instability, which arise from the use of high-energy approaches during the production of the nanoemulsion, these can be resolved by the advancement of an alternative nanoemulsification technique. Considering the potential advantages and long-term benefits of NEGs, the authors of this paper have compiled a review that elaborates the potential significance of utilizing nanoemulgels in a topical delivery system for anti-inflammatory drugs.

Food Peptides for the Nutricosmetic Industry

In recent years, numerous reports have described bioactive peptides (biopeptides)/hydrolysates produced from various food sources. Biopeptides are considered interesting for industrial application since they show numerous functional properties (e.g., anti-aging, antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and antimicrobial properties) and technological properties (e.g., solubility, emulsifying, and foaming). Moreover, they have fewer side effects than synthetic drugs. Nevertheless, some challenges must be overcome before their administration via the oral route. The gastric, pancreatic, and small intestinal enzymes and acidic stomach conditions can affect their bioavailability and the levels that can reach the site of action. Some delivery systems have been studied to avoid these problems (e.g., microemulsions, liposomes, solid lipid particles). This paper summarizes the results of studies conducted on biopeptides isolated from plants, marine organisms, animals, and biowaste by-products, discusses their potential application in the nutricosmetic industry, and considers potential delivery systems that could maintain their bioactivity. Our results show that food peptides are environmentally sustainable products that can be used as antioxidant, antimicrobial, anti-aging, and anti-inflammatory agents in nutricosmetic formulations. Biopeptide production from biowaste requires expertise in analytical procedures and good manufacturing practice. It is hoped that new analytical procedures can be developed to simplify large-scale production and that the authorities adopt and regulate use of appropriate testing standards to guarantee the population's safety.

Skin drug delivery using lipid vesicles: A starting guideline for their development

Lipid vesicles can provide a cost-effective enhancement of skin drug absorption when vesicle production process is optimised. It is an important challenge to design the ideal vesicle, since their properties and features are related, as changes in one affect the others. Here, we review the main components, preparation and characterization methods commonly used, and the key properties that lead to highly efficient vesicles for transdermal drug delivery purposes. We stand by size, deformability degree and drug loading, as the most important vesicle features that determine the further transdermal drug absorption. The interest in this technology is increasing, as demonstrated by the exponential growth of publications on the topic. Although long-term preservation and scalability issues have limited the commercialization of lipid vesicle products, freeze-drying and modern escalation methods overcome these difficulties, thus predicting a higher use of these technologies in the market and clinical practice.

A novel transdermal delivery route for energy supplements: Electrospun chitosan/polyvinyl alcohol nanofiber patches loaded with vitamin B12

Nanofibrous patches have attracted much attention as a solution to resolve drug delivery challenges. In this study, vitamin B₁₂- loaded polyvinyl alcohol (PVA)/chitosan (Cs) nanofiber patch (NFP) was electrospun and cross-linked by glutaraldehyde (GA). The physicochemical properties of the nanofiber patches were assessed by morphological studies, FTIR analysis, hydrophilicity test, mechanical tests, and in-vitro evaluations including biodegradability, MTT assay, and cumulative release test of vitamin. In-vivo studies were also carried out by measuring vitamin B₁₂ levels in the bloodstream and conducting histopathology studies on the animal models. The results showed that the mean diameter of Cs/PVA/B₁₂ and cross-linked patch were approximately 207 and 256 nm, respectively. Cross-linking of NFP led to the lower, slower, and more continuous release of the vitamin with a slight decrease in biodegradability, and an increase in the mechanical properties of the nanofiber patches. Furthermore, the cytocompatibility assay, MTT, and in vivo results revealed no cytotoxicity of Cs/PVA/B₁₂ NFP towards L929 cell line. No lesion or tissue damage was observed in the skin tissue of the animal models wearing these skin patches. Therefore, B₁₂-loaded NFP can be introduced as a potential candidate for commercial transdermal routes.

Combination of Dissolving Microneedles with Nanosuspension and Co-Grinding for Transdermal Delivery of Ketoprofen

Ketoprofen is an anti-inflammatory agent that may cause gastric irritation if administered orally. Dissolving microneedles (DMN) can be a promising strategy to overcome this issue. However, ketoprofen has a low solubility; therefore, it is essential to enhance its solubility using certain methods, namely nanosuspension (NS) and co-grinding (CG). This research aimed to formulate DMN containing ketoprofen-loaded NS and CG. Ketoprofen NS was formulated with poly(vinyl alcohol) (PVA) at concentrations of 0.5%, 1%, and 2%. CG was prepared by grinding ketoprofen with PVA or poly(vinyl pyrrolidone) (PVP) at different drug–polymer ratios. The manufactured ketoprofen-loaded NS and CG were evaluated in terms of their dissolution profile. The most promising formulation from each system was then formulated into microneedles (MNs). The fabricated MNs were assessed in terms of their physical and chemical properties. An in vitro permeation study using Franz diffusion cells was also carried out. The most promising MN-NS and MN-CG formulations were F4-MN-NS (PVA 5%-PVP 10%), F5-MN-NS (PVA 5%-PVP 15%), F8-MN-CG (PVA 5%-PVP 15%), and F11-MN-CG (PVA 7.5%-PVP 15%), respectively. The cumulative amounts of drug permeated after 24 h for F5-MN-NS and F11-MN-CG were 3.88 ± 0.46 µg and 8.73 ± 1.40 µg, respectively. In conclusion, the combination of DMN with nanosuspension or a co-grinding system may be a promising strategy for delivering ketoprofen transdermally.

Enzymatic biofuel cell-powered iontophoretic facial mask for enhanced transdermal drug delivery

Recent advances in enzymatic biofuel cells (EBFCs) have resulted in great progress in health monitoring and supplying power to medical applications, such as drug delivery. On the other hand, to enhance the electric field-assisted transdermal permeation for facial mask application, an external power source is usually required. Herein, we attempted to combine an EBFC with a facial mask so that the microcurrent generated can boost the transdermal permeability of target molecules in the facial mask essence. When screen-printed onto a polypropylene-based non-woven fabric, the three-layered flexible EBFC could produce a voltage of ∼0.4 V and a maximum power density of 23.3 μW cm^-2, leading to an approximately 2-3-fold increase in permeated nicotinamide, arbutin, and aspirin levels within 15 min compared to non-iontophoretic transdermal drug delivery. Both cell viability and animal experiments further demonstrated that the EBFC-powered iontophoresis worked well in living animals with good biocompatibility. These results suggest that the EBFC-powered iontophoretic facial mask can effectively improve the permeation of drugs and holds a promise for the possible cosmetic application.

Bio-Based Nano-Enabled Cosmetic Formulations for the Treatment of Cutibacterium acnes-Associated Skin Infections

Acne is a common chronic skin condition with serious physical and psychosocial consequences. In some cases, the appearance of pimples, whiteheads, or blackheads on the face, neck, and back may lead to scarring, disfiguring, depression, frustration, and anxiety in patients. Current treatments rely on antibiotics to eradicate Cutibacterium acnes (C. acnes), the bacterium responsible for this skin condition. However, these approaches do not scavenge the reactive oxidative species (ROS) generated during disease development and raise concerns about the increase in antimicrobial resistance. In this study, an environmentally friendly and cost-effective self-assembly nanoencapsulation technology based on zein, a bio-based hydrophobic protein, was employed to produce multifunctional essential oil (EO)-loaded nanocapsules (NCs) with superior antioxidant and bactericidal activity toward C. acnes. The NCs displayed "smart" release of the active cargo only under the conditions that were conducive to acne proliferation on skin. Once incorporated into creams, the EO-loaded NCs led to a complete inhibition of C. acnes and demonstrated the capacity to scavenge ROS, thus preventing damage to human skin cells. The in vitro permeation studies revealed that the nanoformulated EO was able to penetrate through the epidermis, indicating its potential for the treatment of skin diseases, such as acne.

Advanced Phytochemical-Based Nanocarrier Systems for the Treatment of Breast Cancer

As the world's most prevalent cancer, breast cancer imposes a significant societal health burden and is among the leading causes of cancer death in women worldwide. Despite the notable improvements in survival in countries with early detection programs, combined with different modes of treatment to eradicate invasive disease, the current chemotherapy regimen faces significant challenges associated with chemotherapy-induced side effects and the development of drug resistance. Therefore, serious concerns regarding current chemotherapeutics are pressuring researchers to develop alternative therapeutics with better efficacy and safety. Due to their extremely biocompatible nature and efficient destruction of cancer cells via numerous mechanisms, phytochemicals have emerged as one of the attractive alternative therapies for chemotherapeutics to treat breast cancer. Additionally, phytofabricated nanocarriers, whether used alone or in conjunction with other loaded phytotherapeutics or chemotherapeutics, showed promising results in treating breast cancer. In the current review, we emphasize the anticancer activity of phytochemical-instigated nanocarriers and phytochemical-loaded nanocarriers against breast cancer both in vitro and in vivo. Since diverse mechanisms are implicated in the anticancer activity of phytochemicals, a strong emphasis is placed on the anticancer pathways underlying their action. Furthermore, we discuss the selective targeted delivery of phytofabricated nanocarriers to cancer cells and consider research gaps, recent developments, and the druggability of phytoceuticals. Combining phytochemical and chemotherapeutic agents with nanotechnology might have far-reaching impacts in the future.

Arnica montana L. extract containing 6-O-methacryloylhelenalin and 6-O-isobutyrylhelenalin accelerates growth and differentiation of human subcutaneous preadipocytes and leads volumizing of skin

OBJECTIVE

An important factor in the aging of the face is a reduction in the volume of adipose tissue. This reduction in adipose tissue contributes to decreased skin elasticity, which is also part of the aging process. Overall, these lead to wrinkle formation. Fat injection is a common means of addressing this issue and is used to reduce the effects of aging on the face and to increase the fullness of the lips and breasts. However, fat injection is an invasive surgical procedure. This study aimed to discover novel cosmetic ingredients that increase the volume of subcutaneous (pre)adipocytes to create the appearance of more youthful skin.

METHODS

We focused on the number of subcutaneous preadipocytes and the accumulation of lipid droplets. To discover natural ingredients that increase both of these, extracts of 380 natural products were prepared and screened for their effects on both growth and differentiation (i.e., lipid droplet accumulation) of human subcutaneous preadipocytes. One extract was found to have the desired effects, and this was further studied to determine the active compounds. We then evaluated its efficacy in a human clinical study.

RESULTS

We found that Arnica montana L. flower extract (AFE) accelerates both the growth and the differentiation of human subcutaneous preadipocytes. AFE was found to significantly increase the volume of adipocyte spheroids. The active compounds 6-O-methacryloylhelenalin and 6-O-isobutyrylhelenalin were found to be responsible for the effects of AFE on preadipocytes. In a human clinical study, gels containing 1% AFE successfully enhanced the volume of the lips and face with reduction of wrinkles with no adverse reactions.

CONCLUSION

This is the first report to demonstrate that AFE and the included compounds, 6-O-methacryloylhelenalin and 6-O-isobutyrylhelenalin, act on preadipocytes. AFE would be ideal for use in products that plump the face to reduce wrinkles and create a more youthful appearance.

Analysis of Cosmetic Products Containing Serratula coronata Herb Extract

Phytoecdysteroids exert significant anti-inflammatory effects, which makes them valuable ingredients in pharmaceutical and cosmetic products. However, data on their use in cosmetics are limited. Here, a new formulation with the extract of the Serratula coronata herb containing phytoecdysteroids was developed. The aim of this study was to perform physicochemical characteristics and evaluate the safety of the creams with S. coronata. Chromatography was used to detect the dominant phytoecdysteroids in the extract. The chemical and physical description of the creams was performed using the following parameters: viscosity, pH, and stability. The microbiological purity (pharmacopoeial methods) and transdermal permeability (Raman spectroscopy) were assessed to ensure the safety of the plant extracts used in the creams. The study confirmed the presence of phytoecdysteroid fractions of the S. coronata herb in the creams (20-hydroxyecdysone, polypodine B, and ajugasterone C). The results indicated that the cosmetics containing the S. coronata extract were chemically and microbiologically stable, thereby contributing to their safety. Their effectiveness is the result of transdermal permeability of 20-hydroxyecdysone. In this study, we demonstrated the importance of the S. coronata extract as a source of bioactive phytoecdysteroids and proved that the extract’s characteristics may make it the key ingredient of safe and stable skincare products that support the treatment of various inflammatory skin diseases. These results were a continuation of those presented in our earlier publication.

Skin Ageing: A Progressive, Multi-Factorial Condition Demanding an Integrated, Multilayer-Targeted Remedy

Of the human organs, skin is the most visible one that displays the manifestations of ageing. It has a very intricate microanatomical structure and performs several key physiological functions. The pathophysiology of cutaneous ageing is characterized by deterioration of structural stability and functional integrity, implying a continuous reduction in maximal function and reserve capacity, as a result of the accumulating damage due to both intrinsic and extrinsic factors. Elimination of unfavorable expressions associated with facial and cutaneous ageing is the key patient demand in aesthetic dermatology. Even though the progress has been made in nonsurgical therapies like fillers and lasers, non-invasive interventions by using skin care products designed for rejuvenation at an early stage are the most popular and accessible solution among people. In this review, we have scrutinized the ageing-associated cutaneous changes at molecular, cellular and tissue levels. To optimize the ageing process towards a healthy skin, we propose an integrated, multilayer-targeted intervention, which involves both topical application of anti-ageing formulations from outside and oral supplementation from inside. Additionally, several promising naturally derived ingredients are reviewed from an anti-aging perspective. Most of them possess various bioactivities and may contribute to the development of the mentioned anti-ageing remedy.

Transformation of Hydrophilic Drug into Oil-Miscible Ionic Liquids for Transdermal Drug Delivery

The transdermal delivery of hydrophilic drugs remains challenging owing to their poor ability to permeate the skin; formulation with oil media is difficult without adding chemical permeation enhancers or co-solvents. Herein, we synthesized 12 oil-miscible ionic liquid (IL) drugs comprising lidocaine-, imipramine-, and levamisole (Lev)-hydrochloride with fatty acid permeation enhancers, i.e., laurate, oleate, linoleate, and stearate as counterions. A set of in vitro and in vivo studies was performed to investigate the potency and deliverability of the transdermal drug formulations. All of the synthesized compounds were freely miscible with pharmaceutically acceptable solvents/agents (i.e., ethanol, N-methyl pyrrolidone, Tween 20, and isopropyl myristate (IPM)). In vitro permeation studies revealed that the oleate-based Lev formulation had 2.6-fold higher skin permeation capability than the Lev salts and also superior ability compared with the laurate-, linoleate-, and stearate-containing samples. Upon in vivo transdermal administration to mice, the peak plasma concentration, elimination half-life, and area under the plasma concentration curve values of Lev-IL were 4.6-, 2.9-, and 5.4-fold higher, respectively, than those of the Lev salt. Furthermore, in vitro skin irritation and in vivo histological studies have demonstrated that Lev-IL has excellent biocompatibility compared with a conventional ionic liquid-based carrier. The results indicate that oil-miscible IL-based drugs provide a simple and scalable strategy for the design of effective transdermal drug delivery systems.

Clinical evaluation of the brightening effect of chitosan-based cationic liposomes

BACKGROUND

Cationic liposomes can enhance the permeability of drugs in 3-D skin. Chitosan is considered a safe material for percutaneous delivery; thus, this study uses chitosan-incorporated cationic liposomes.

AIMS

This study investigated the improvement in skin brightness, melanin, and melasma after treatment niacinamide-incorporated chitosan cationic liposomes.

METHODS

A skin brightening agent, niacinamide, was formulated into cationic liposomes to facilitate percutaneous absorption and was clinically tested in 21 Korean female subjects. Cationic liposomes were prepared using a high-pressure homogenizer after mixing an oil phase containing lecithin and cholesterol and an aqueous phase containing niacinamide and chitosan.

RESULTS

The cationic liposomes exhibited stability over 28 days, with a particle size of 255-275 nm and zeta potential of 10-14 mV. Cationic liposomes containing niacinamide and a control formulation were applied to the left and right side of the face, respectively, twice daily for 28 days. Skin brightness, melanin index, and area of melasma were significantly enhanced where cationic liposomes were used, in comparison with formulations without cationic liposomes, demonstrating a 1.38-2.08-fold improvement.

CONCLUSION

Thus, we established that chitosan liposomes augmented the percutaneous absorption of niacinamide and improved the appearance of the skin.

Natural products in cosmetics

The global cosmetics market reached US$500 billion in 2017 and is expected to exceed US$800 billion by 2023, at around a 7% annual growth rate. The cosmetics industry is emerging as one of the fastest-growing industries of the past decade. Data shows that the Chinese cosmetics market was US$60 billion in 2021. It is expected to be the world's number one consumer cosmetics market by 2050, with a size of approximately US$450 billion. The influence of social media and the internet has raised awareness of the risks associated with the usage of many chemicals in cosmetics and the health benefits of natural products derived from plants and other natural resources. As a result, the cosmetic industry is now paying more attention to natural products. The present review focus on the possible applications of natural products from various biological sources in skin care cosmetics, including topical care products, fragrances, moisturizers, UV protective, and anti-wrinkle products. In addition, the mechanisms of targets for evaluation of active ingredients in cosmetics and the possible benefits of these bioactive compounds in rejuvenation and health, and their potential role in cosmetics are also discussed.

Effects of Nanobubbles in Dermal Delivery of Drugs and Cosmetics

Dermal delivery, which delivers drugs and cosmetics through the skin, has attracted significant attention due to its non-invasive and simple administration compared with oral or injectable administration. However, delivery of the ingredients through the skin barrier is difficult because the primary function of the skin is to protect the human body by preventing the invasion of contaminants. Although various techniques have been developed to overcome skin barriers, chemical toxicity, complicated processes, and expensive equipment still remain as obstacles. Moreover, green chemistry, which minimizes or eliminates the use of toxic chemicals, is required in the cosmetic industry. Thus, the development of a new method for dermal delivery is required. In this study, we provide a new method for dermal delivery using nanobubbles (NBs). NBs generated in oil improve the delivery effect of the active ingredients through the high Brownian motion and charge-balancing effect. Franz cell experiments and depigmentation experiments using the B16F10 melanoma cells were conducted to confirm the enhanced delivery effects. The system using NBs will contribute to the advancement of the dermal delivery of drugs and cosmetics.

Photolyase Production and Current Applications: A Review

The photolyase family consists of flavoproteins with enzyme activity able to repair ultraviolet light radiation damage by photoreactivation. DNA damage by the formation of a cyclobutane pyrimidine dimer (CPD) and a pyrimidine-pyrimidone (6-4) photoproduct can lead to multiple affections such as cellular apoptosis and mutagenesis that can evolve into skin cancer. The development of integrated applications to prevent the negative effects of prolonged sunlight exposure, usually during outdoor activities, is imperative. This study presents the functions, characteristics, and types of photolyases, their therapeutic and cosmetic applications, and additionally explores some photolyase-producing microorganisms and drug delivery systems.

The effect of chitosan/TiO2/hyaluronic acid subphase on the behaviour of 1,2-dioleoyl-sn-glycero-3-phosphocholine membrane

The main aim of the study was to determine the effect of two polysaccharides: chitosan (Ch) and hyaluronic acid (HA), and/or titanium dioxide (TiO₂) on the structure and behaviour of the 1,2-dioleoyl-sn-glycero-3-phosphocholine (DOPC) membrane. To achieve this goal the surface pressure as a function of the area per molecule (π-A) isotherm for the phospholipid monolayer was recorded. The shape of the π-A isotherms and compression-decompression cycles, as well as the compression modulus values, were analysed in terms of biocompatibility. Besides, morphology and thickness of the phospholipid layers obtained by means of Brewster angle microscope at different π, were determined. The obtained results show that both polysaccharides Ch, HA, as well inorganic TiO₂ affect slightly the structure of the DOPC monolayer but do not disrupt it. Their presence brings no typical arrangements of both the polar heads and tails of DOPC molecules at the interface.

Phytoecdysteroids from Serratula coronata L. for Psoriatic Skincare

Phytoecdysones from Serratula coronata seem to be promising agents for skincare in patients with psoriasis. The aim of the study was to determine the effects of creams containing the extract of S. coronata on psoriatic lesions. Creams with different formulas were prepared: 0-Lekobaza^®, 1-Lekobaza^®, S. coronata, 2-Lekobaza^®, Salicylic acid, 3-Lekobaza^®, S. coronata, Salicylic acid. After examination of skin penetration and biosafety, the designated cream was applied twice daily for 6 weeks on 72 psoriatic plaques located on elbows or knees. The lesions were assessed at baseline and follow-up of 6 weeks. The lesions area was measured, and severity of scaling, erythema, and infiltration was assessed using a 5-point scale (from 0—none to 4—very severe). Skin hydration and structure, pH, transepidermal water loss, erythema, and melanin index were analyzed instrumentally. Creams 1, 2, and 3 significantly reduced the area of psoriatic plaques. Improvement in erythema and infiltration was observed for creams 1 and 3. Creams 1–3 reduced scaling. Our study confirmed a beneficial effect of creams containing S. coronata extract on psoriatic lesions.

Magnesium ascorbyl phosphate vesicular carriers for topical delivery; preparation, in-vitro and ex-vivo evaluation, factorial optimization and clinical assessment in melasma patients

Ascorbic acid (vitamin C) is an antioxidant that is widely used in cosmetics in skincare products. Due to the excessive low stability of ascorbic acid in cosmetic formulations, the stabilized ascorbic acid derivative, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate (MAP) was formulated as vesicular carriers; ethosomes and niosomes. The aim was to deliver MAP at the intended site of action, the skin, for sufficient time with enhanced permeation to get an effective response. Ethosomes were formulated using a full 3² factorial design to study ethanol and phospholipid concentration effect on ethosomes properties. Niosomes were formulated using 2³ factorial designs to study the effect of surfactant type, surfactant concentration and cholesterol concentration on niosomes properties. The prepared formulations were evaluated for their Entrapment efficiency, particle size, polydispersity index, zeta potential and % drug permeated. The optimized ethosomal and niosomal formulations were incorporated into carbopol gel and evaluated for their permeation, skin retention and stability. A comparative split-face clinical study was done between the ethosomal and niosomal formulations for melasma treatment using Antera 3 D^® camera. The optimized ethosomal and niosomal gels showed comparable controlled permeation and higher skin retention over their ethosomes and niosomes formulations respectively. Magnesium ascorbyl phosphate ethosomal gel showed clinically and statistically significant melanin level decrease after one month while MAP niosomal gel showed clinically and statistically significant melanin level decrease after six months. A combination of MAP ethosomes and niosomes could be promising skincare formulations for melasma and hyperpigmentation short and long-term treatment.

A novel dermal delivery system using natural spicules for cosmetics and therapeutics

BACKGROUND

Dermal delivery is versatile in therapeutics as well as cosmetics in pursuit of enhancing safety/efficacy and alleviating pain/fear to alternate oral/injective administrations. Natural siliceous spicules offer a potential approach via simple topical medications to circumvent poor penetrations through the skin barrier by loading, carrying and releasing the active ingredients in a highly efficient and controlled manner.

AIMS

The delivery of ingredients loaded on spicules is assessed to improve the dermal efficacy compared to simple topical treatments.

METHODS

First, needle-like spicules were isolated from natural freshwater sponges. Then, the active ingredient was loaded via liposome formations. Finally, the dermal efficiency was evaluated.

RESULTS

Natural siliceous spicules were purified, sorted, and fully characterized to appear 250 μm of length and 12 μm of diameter on average. A model ingredient, pectolinarin, was efficiently loaded onto the internal space of spicules via lecithin-based liposome formations. The penetration was visualized using a porcine skin sample with a fluorescent dye and assessed quantitatively by a Franz diffusion cell system. Dermal absorption rate was measured 73.4%, while the percutaneous penetration rate was 2.2%. The release pattern turned out a simple diffusion analyzed by Fick's law and Higuchi model. The liposomes loaded onto spicules were further stabilized by a hydrophobic capsulation, which may benefit the overall efficacy of the ingredient.

CONCLUSION

A novel dermal delivery system is beneficial to improve the topical efficacy of biologically active ingredients. The outcomes shed a light upon developing skin-protective/improving cosmetics and therapeutics with enhanced performance.

Comparison of sensory and rheological properties of green cosmetic creams prepared on different natural, ECOCERT and BDIH certificated self-emulsifying bases

The objective of this paper was to evaluate and compare the rheological and sensory properties of six natural cosmetic creams that use ECOCERT certificated emulsifying bases: Beautyderm, Dub Base Expert, Simulgreen™ 18-2, Olivem 1000, Montanov L and Emulgin Succro against two synthetics: Granthix APP and Lanette W.

The use of emulsifying bases in formulas helps to stabilize the product and improve its rheological and sensory attributes. In this study, the physical and chemical properties of several prepared cosmetic creams were determined. Apparent viscosity and thixotropy were evaluated by viscosimeter, while spreadability was ascertained by extensometer. Moreover, a group of 10 trained members evaluated the sensory properties of the formulas. The obtained formulas based upon natural emulsifiers are characterized by very good physical and chemical properties, high stabilization and good usage quality. The results were confirmed by sensory analysis. The cosmetic creams made with synthetic emulsifying bases were rated the worst by the study participants, which correlated with the physical tests.

Anti-ageing peptides and proteins for topical applications: a review

Skin ageing is a cumulative result of oxidative stress, predominantly caused by reactive oxygen species (ROS). Respiration, pollutants, toxins, or ultraviolet A (UVA) irradiation produce ROS with 80% of skin damage attributed to UVA irradiation. Anti-ageing peptides and proteins are considered valuable compounds for removing ROS to prevent skin ageing and maintenance of skin health. In this review, skin ageing theory has been illustrated with a focus on the mechanism and relationship with anti-ageing peptides and proteins. The effects, classification, and transport pathways of anti-ageing peptides and proteins across skin are summarized and discussed. Over the last decade, several novel formulations and advanced strategies have been developed to overcome the challenges in the dermal delivery of proteins and peptides for skin ageing. This article also provides an in-depth review of the latest advancements in the dermal delivery of anti-ageing proteins and peptides. Based on these studies, this review prospected several semi-solid dosage forms to achieve topical applicability for anti-ageing peptides and proteins.

The Emerging Role of Ionic Liquid-Based Approaches for Enhanced Skin Permeation of Bioactive Molecules: A Snapshot of the Past Couple of Years

Topical and transdermal delivery systems are of undeniable significance and ubiquity in healthcare, to facilitate the delivery of active pharmaceutical ingredients, respectively, onto or across the skin to enter systemic circulation. From ancient ointments and potions to modern micro/nanotechnological devices, a variety of approaches has been explored over the ages to improve the skin permeation of diverse medicines and cosmetics. Amongst the latest investigational dermal permeation enhancers, ionic liquids have been gaining momentum, and recent years have been prolific in this regard. As such, this review offers an outline of current methods for enhancing percutaneous permeation, highlighting selected reports where ionic liquid-based approaches have been investigated for this purpose. Future perspectives on use of ionic liquids for topical delivery of bioactive peptides are also presented.

Microneedle system: a modulated approach for penetration enhancement

The microneedles show advantages over transdermal drug delivery systems on account of better skin permeation bypassing the stratum corneum. To increase the flux of permeation, penetration enhancement techniques like physical and chemical methods are combined with a trans-epidermal delivery system across the skin causing minimal pain. These techniques include iontophoresis, sonophoresis, and electroporation for physical enhancement of drug delivery via topical route by either disrupting the structure of the stratum corneum or by creating pores/micro-channels within the skin. The use of chemical penetrants such as ethanol, lipids, surfactants, and terpenes improves the release kinetics by mechanisms like fluidization of lipids, denaturation of proteins, etc. A combination of microneedles and these techniques show a significant increase in the permeability of drugs across the skin by 5-10 times compared to microneedles alone. This review article focuses on various advanced strategies like the use of drug-polymer complexes, application of ultrasound frequency or tolerable electric current, formation of nano-formulations, etc. with microneedle delivery for transportation of high payload of actives, macromolecules, antibodies, gene, proteins, and peptides. In the near future, microneedle systems will offer potential targeted drug delivery, self-sealable administration across the skin, and minimally invasive vaccine transportation in cancer, diabetes, Alzheimer's, and cardiovascular diseases.HighlightsPhysical penetration enhancement techniques: iontophoresis, electroporation, and sonophoresis.Chemical penetration enhancers: polymers, lipids, surfactants.Strategies to use microneedle system with penetration enhancement techniques.The significant difference in the penetration ability of high payload actives.

Neurocosmetics in Skincare—The Fascinating World of Skin–Brain Connection: A Review to Explore Ingredients, Commercial Products for Skin Aging, and Cosmetic Regulation

The “modern” cosmetology industry is focusing on research devoted to discovering novel neurocosmetic functional ingredients that could improve the interactions between the skin and the nervous system. Many cosmetic companies have started to formulate neurocosmetic products that exhibit their activity on the cutaneous nervous system by affecting the skin’s neuromediators through different mechanisms of action. This review aims to clarify the definition of neurocosmetics, and to describe the features of some functional ingredients and products available on the market, with a look at the regulatory aspect. The attention is devoted to neurocosmetic ingredients for combating skin stress, explaining the stress pathways, which are also correlated with skin aging. “Neuro-relaxing” anti-aging ingredients derived from plant extracts and neurocosmetic strategies to combat inflammatory responses related to skin stress are presented. Afterwards, the molecular basis of sensitive skin and the suitable neurocosmetic ingredients to improve this problem are discussed. With the aim of presenting the major application of Botox-like ingredients as the first neurocosmetics on the market, skin aging is also introduced, and its theory is presented. To confirm the efficacy of the cosmetic products on the market, the concept of cosmetic claims is discussed.