Zooceuticals and Cosmetic Ingredients Derived from Animals

Development of a MS compatible HPLC-HILIC method for the analysis of allantoin and glycolic acid in snail slime and related dosage forms: Focus on the enantioseparation of allantoin

Glycolic acid and allantoin are known to be responsible, at least in part, for the main activities of snail slime, such as moisturizing, skin regeneration, antioxidant, soothing and anti-inflammatory. Accordingly, a hydrophilic interaction liquid chromatography (HILIC) method for the analysis of allantoin and glycolic acid in snail slime samples was developed by a conventional UV-Vis detector and the diol-type Luna® HILIC column. An optimized eluent made up of acetonitrile/water/methanol/formic acid (90:5:5:0.1 v/v/v/v) allowed the separation of the two investigated compounds from each other and from lactic acid and hydantoin used as internal standards. Being allantoin a chiral compound, an enantioselective HPLC protocol was also developed. The chiral analysis of allantoin was performed with the Lux® 3 μm i-Amilose-3 chiral stationary phase using the same mobile phase as for the achiral analysis. The chiral method was efficiently transferred to a HPLC system coupled to triple-quadrupole mass spectrometry (MS/MS). HPLC-MS/MS analysis revealed the racemic nature of allantoin in the pure snail slime. The same profile was also observed in a prototype hydrogel prepared with snail slime. Moreover, the same method allowed to measure the amount of glycolic acid in the two investigated samples (pure snail slime and gel) and ascertain a valuable extraction recovery. The enantiomeric elution order (S)<(R) with the amylose-based phase was established coupling the results of experimental electronic circular dichroism analysis to time-dependent density functional theory simulations.

Lactobacillus-derived artificial extracellular vesicles for skin rejuvenation and prevention of photo-aging

Extracellular vesicles (EVs) are small membrane-bound sacs released by cells that play crucial roles in intercellular communication. They transport biomolecules between cells and have both diagnostic and therapeutic potential. Artificial EVs, designed to mimic natural EVs, have been developed using various methods. In this study, Lactobacillus plantarum was used to create Lactobacillus-derived artificial EVs (LAEs) for skin rejuvenation and anti-aging. LAEs demonstrated monodispersity and effectively improved adverse gene expression and wound healing in fibroblasts. They also modulated aging-related genes and improved skin conditions in humans. Their simplicity, promptness, and lack of animal-derived sources make LAEs a promising alternative to natural EVs. LAEs have the potential to overcome the technical limitations of artificial EVs and advance EVs or exosome-based technologies for comprehensive skin rejuvenation.

Evaluation of the Anti-Aging Properties of Ethanolic Extracts from Selected Plant Species and Propolis by Enzyme Inhibition Assays and 2D/3D Cell Culture Methods

Background: Skin aging is a complex biological process affected by internal and external factors that disrupt the skin structure, especially in sun-exposed areas. Elastin and collagen in the dermis layer, responsible for the skin's resistance and elasticity, have been the main subject of research. Since tyrosinase (TYR) is an enzyme found in different organisms and plays an essential role in melanogenesis, inhibitors of this enzyme have been the target mechanism for skin-bleaching product research. Methods: We selected the plant species Cotinus coggygria Scop., Garcinia mangostana L., Pistacia vera L., Vitis vinifera L., and propolis, which exhibited activity against a minimum of three target enzymes-elastase, collagenase, and TYR-in our previous screening study to find the suitable raw material for a cosmetic product. In the current research, the extracts from these samples were tested through a cell-free enzyme assay using validated elastase, collagenase, and TYR inhibition kits. We also performed the safety and efficacy tests of the selected extracts with 2D/3D cell culture methods. Results: Our data revealed the propolis extract among the tested ones displayed remarkable anti-inflammatory activity in the 2D (NF-κB induction: 10.81%) and 3D assays. Cotinus coggygria leaf and Garcinia mangostana shell extracts exhibited anti-inflammatory activity in the 2D luciferase reporter assay via TNFα addition. C. coggygria leaf, V. vinifera (grape) seed, and propolis extracts were selected for testing in 3D cell culture methods based on the 2D cytotoxicity results with cell viability values of 54.75%, 93.19%, and 98.64% at 34.25 µg/mL, respectively. The general phytochemical profiles of these three extracts were examined in terms of 53 phenolic compounds with LC-MS/MS, revealing that quinic acid, epicatechin, and acacetin were the dominant phenolics among the tested ones. Conclusions: It is the first study conducted to evaluate the use of the extracts indicated above in cosmetics by employing procedures involving 3D cell culture.

Unveiling the Lipid Features and Valorization Potential of Atlantic Salmon (Salmo salar) Heads

The sustainable utilization of co-products derived from the salmon processing industry is crucial for enhancing the viability and decreasing the environmental footprint of both capture and aquaculture operations. Salmon (Salmo salar) is one of the most consumed fish worldwide and a major species produced in aquaculture. As such, significant quantities of salmon co-products are produced in pre-commercialization processing/steaking procedures. The present study characterized a specific co-product derived from the processing of salmon: minced salmon heads. More specifically, this work aimed to reveal the nutritional profile of this co-product, with a special focus on its lipid content, including thoroughly profiling fatty acids and fully appraising the composition in complex lipids (polar lipids and triglycerides) for the first time. The antioxidant potential of lipid extracts from this salmon co-product was also studied in order to bioprospect lipid functional properties and possibly unveil new pathways for added-value applications. Our analysis indicated that these minced salmon heads are exceptionally rich in lipids. Oleic acid is the most prevalent fatty acid in this co-product, followed by palmitic acid, stearic acid, and linoleic acid. Moreover, relevant lipid indexes inferred from the fatty acid composition of this co-product revealed good nutritional traits. Lipidome analysis revealed that triglycerides were clearly the predominant lipid class present in this co-product while phospholipids, as well as ceramides, were also present, although in minimal quantities. The bioprospecting of antioxidant activity in the lipid extracts of the minced salmon heads revealed limited results. Given the high concentration of triglycerides, minced salmon heads can constitute a valuable resource for industrial applications from the production of fish oil to biodiesel (as triglycerides can be easily converted into fatty acid methyl esters), as well as possible ingredients for cosmetics, capitalizing on their alluring emollient properties. Overall, the valorization of minced salmon heads, major co-products derived from the processing of one of the most intensively farmed fish in the world, not only offers economic benefits but also contributes to the sustainability of the salmon processing industry by reducing waste and promoting a more efficient use of marine bioresources.

Study of Processing Conditions during Enzymatic Hydrolysis of Deer By-Product Tallow for Targeted Changes at the Molecular Level and Properties of Modified Fats

In most cases, the unused by-products of venison, including deer tallow, are disposed of in rendering plants. Deer tallow contains essential fatty acids and can be used to prepare products for everyday food and advanced applications. This work aimed to process deer tallow into hydrolyzed products using microbial lipases. A Taguchi design with three process factors at three levels was used to optimize the processing: amount of water (8, 16, 24%), amount of enzyme (2, 4, 6%), and reaction time (2, 4, 6 h). The conversion of the tallow to hydrolyzed products was expressed by the degree of hydrolysis. The oxidative stability of the prepared products was determined by the peroxide value and the free fatty acids by the acid value; further, color change, textural properties (hardness, spreadability, stickiness, and adhesiveness), and changes at the molecular level were observed by Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy (FTIR). The degree of hydrolysis was 11.8-49.6%; the peroxide value ranged from 12.3 to 29.5 µval/g, and the color change of the samples expressed by the change in the total color difference (∆E*) was 1.9-13.5. The conditions of enzymatic hydrolysis strongly influenced the textural properties: hardness 25-50 N, spreadability 20-40 N/s, and stickiness < 0.06 N. FTIR showed that there are changes at the molecular level manifested by a decrease in ester bonds. Enzymatically hydrolyzed deer tallow is suitable for preparing cosmetics and pharmaceutical matrices.

Marine Animal Co-Products-How Improving Their Use as Rich Sources of Health-Promoting Lipids Can Foster Sustainability

Marine lipids are recognized for their-health promoting features, mainly for being the primary sources of omega-3 fatty acids, and are therefore critical for human nutrition in an age when the global supply for these nutrients is experiencing an unprecedent pressure due to an ever-increasing demand. The seafood industry originates a considerable yield of co-products worldwide that, while already explored for other purposes, remain mostly undervalued as sustainable sources of healthy lipids, often being explored for low-value oil production. These co-products are especially appealing as lipid sources since, besides the well-known nutritional upside of marine animal fat, which is particularly rich in omega-3 polyunsaturated fatty acids, they also have interesting bioactive properties, which may garner them further interest, not only as food, but also for other high-end applications. Besides the added value that these co-products may represent as valuable lipid sources, there is also the obvious ecological upside of reducing seafood industry waste. In this sense, repurposing these bioresources will contribute to a more sustainable use of marine animal food, reducing the strain on already heavily depleted seafood stocks. Therefore, untapping the potential of marine animal co-products as valuable lipid sources aligns with both health and environmental goals by guaranteeing additional sources of healthy lipids and promoting more eco-conscious practices.

Gastropod Slime-Based Gel as an Adjustable Synthetic Model for Human Airway Mucus

Airway mucus works as a protective barrier in the human body, as it entraps pathogens that will be later cleared from the airways by ciliary transport or by coughing, thus featuring the rheological properties of a highly stretchable gel. Nonetheless, the study of these physical barrier as well as transport properties remains limited due to the restricted and invasive access to lungs and bronchi to retrieve mucus and to the poor repeatability inherent to native mucus samples. To overcome these limits, we report on a biobased synthetic mucus prepared from snail slime and multibranched thiol cross-linker, which are able to establish disulfide bonds, in analogy with the disulfide bonding of mucins, and therefore build viscoelastoplastic hydrogels. The gel macroscopic properties are tuned by modifying the cross-linker and slime concentrations and can quantitatively match those of native sputum from donors with cystic fibrosis (CF) or non-cystic fibrosis bronchiectasis (NCFB) both in the small- and large-deformation regimes. Heterogeneous regimes were locally found in the mucus model by passive microrheology, in which both diffusive and non-diffusive motion are present, similar to what is observed in sputa. The biobased synthetic approach proposed in the present study thus allows to produce, with commercially available components, a promising model to native respiratory mucus regarding both mechanical and, to a lesser extent, physicochemical aspects.

Chitosan/snail slime films as multifunctional platforms for potential biomedical and cosmetic applications: physical and chemical characterization

Due to the pollution problem, the use of more sustainable materials with a reduced environmental impact, spanning across biocompatible and biodegradable polymers, is growing worldwide in many different fields, particularly when referring to applications in Life Sciences. Accordingly, with the aim of developing multifunctional materials for potential cosmetic/biomedical purposes, this work reports the physical and chemical characterization of chitosan-based films blended with snail slime, exhibiting antioxidant and sunscreen features. A suitable formulation for preparing free-standing chitosan platforms, mixing low molecular weight chitosan, lactic acid, glycerol, and snail slime into an appropriate ratio, is thus described. The results obtained by morphological analysis and ATR-FTIR spectroscopy, XRD, swelling analysis (also when varying pH, ionic strength, and temperature), and WVTR measurements evidence a uniform distribution of snail slime inside the chitosan network, forming more compacted structures. At first, the UV-Vis analysis is used to investigate the theoretical Sun Protection Factor, finding that these innovative platforms can be used for preventing sunburn. Then, the antioxidant features are investigated using the ABTS assay, displaying a snail slime-mediated and dose-dependent boosted activity.

Snail Slime Extracted by a Cruelty Free Method Preserves Viability and Controls Inflammation Occurrence: A Focus on Fibroblasts

Snail slime (SS) is a viscous secretion obtained from different snail species. SS composition is variable according to factors such as the extraction method. Even if several papers have been published regarding this topic, the molecular mechanisms at the base of SS biological effects remain unexplored. Thus, the aim of this study is to evaluate the capability of SS, extracted with the cruelty-free Muller method, to promote viability and angiogenesis processes and, in parallel, to counteract inflammation occurrence on skin cell populations. SS was administered to keratinocytes, macrophages and fibroblasts, then cell viability, through 3-(4,5-dimethylthiazol-2-yl)-2,5-diphenyltetrazolium bromide (MTT) test, cytotoxicity by lactate dehydrogenase (LDH) assay, morphology by haematoxylin-eosin staining, gene and protein expression through real-time polymerase chain reaction (PCR) and Western blot, cell cycle phases by flow cytometry, and collagen secretion using an enzyme-linked immunosorbent assay (ELISA) test, were measured. Our results evidence SS capability to promote fibroblast viability and to trigger recovery mechanisms by activating the Erk protein. Moreover, an appreciable anti-inflammatory effect due to the significant reduction in cyclooxygenase-2 expression, and a positive modulation of new blood vessel formation demonstrated by increased Angiopoietin 1 gene expression and a higher matrix deposition (evidenced by the augmented amount of released collagen I) can be identified. This evidence led us to assume that the Muller method extracted-SS represents a valuable and promising natural product suitable for cosmetic and skin care formulations.

Potential Cosmetic Active Ingredients Derived from Marine By-Products

The market demand for marine-based cosmetics has shown a tremendous growth rate in the last decade. Marine resources represent a promising source of novel bioactive compounds for new cosmetic ingredient development. However, concern about sustainability also becomes an issue that should be considered in developing cosmetic ingredients. The fisheries industry (e.g., fishing, farming, and processing) generates large amounts of leftovers containing valuable substances, which are potent sources of cosmeceutical ingredients. Several bioactive substances could be extracted from the marine by-product that can be utilized as a potent ingredient to develop cosmetics products. Those bioactive substances (e.g., collagen from fish waste and chitin from crustacean waste) could be utilized as anti-photoaging, anti-wrinkle, skin barrier, and hair care products. From this perspective, this review aims to approach the potential active ingredients derived from marine by-products for cosmetics and discuss the possible activity of those active ingredients in promoting human beauty. In addition, this review also covers the prospect and challenge of using marine by-products toward the emerging concept of sustainable blue cosmetics.

Chitosan: A Promising Multifunctional Cosmetic Ingredient for Skin and Hair Care

The cosmetic industry has an undeniable need to design and develop new ecosustainable products to respond to the demands of consumers and international regulations. This requires substituting some traditional ingredients derived from petrochemical sources with new ones with more ecofriendly profiles. However, this transition towards the use of green ingredients in the cosmetic industry cannot compromise the effectiveness of the obtained products. Emerging ingredients in this new direction of the cosmetic industry are chitosan and its derivatives, which combine many interesting physicochemical and biological properties for the fabrication of cosmetic products. Thus, the use of chitosan opens a promising future path to the design of cosmetic formulations. In particular, chitosan’s ability for interacting electrostatically with negatively charged substrates (e.g., skin or damaged hair), resulting in the formation of polymeric films which contribute to the conditioning and moisturizing of cosmetic substrates, makes this polymer an excellent candidate for the design of skin and hair care formulations. This review tries to provide an updated perspective on the potential interest of chitosan and its derivatives as ingredients of cosmetics for skin and hair care.

Thermal stabilization of polyvinyl chloride by calcium and zinc carboxylates derived from byproduct of palm oil refining

Calcium and zinc carboxylates were prepared from palm fatty acid distillate, a byproduct of palm oil refining, via metathesis in aqueous ethanol. The formations of both metal carboxylates have been confirmed by infrared spectroscopy and x-ray diffraction analysis. Thermogravimetric analysis has shown that the prepared calcium and zinc carboxylates are practically stable while their weight losses are 14% at 393 °C and 19% at 311 °C, respectively. The efficacy of the metal carboxylates in their mixtures in stabilizing polyvinyl chloride against heat has also been studied by using static and dynamic tests. The calcium to zinc ratio of 4:1 has been found to give the longest stability time under the studied condition. The mixed calcium/zinc carboxylates demonstrate a synergism effect with pentaerythritol. The results reveal that mixed calcium/zinc carboxylates from palm fatty acid distillate are effective in stabilizing polyvinyl chloride against heat.

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Ca/Zn carboxylate from PFAD is stable at the processing temperature of PVC.

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Mixed Ca/Zn carboxylate from PFAD is an effective PVC thermal stabilizer.

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PFAD offers a potential raw material for a mixed metal base thermal stabilizer.