Natural Melanogenesis Inhibitors Acting Through the Down-Regulation of Tyrosinase Activity

Preparation, characterization and analysis of anthocyanin arbutin co-amorphous complexes and evaluation of the inhibition of tyrosinase

Natural phenolic compounds, such as anthocyanins and arbutin, have demonstrated significant potential as tyrosinase (TYR) inhibitors. However, the application of anthocyanins in biological systems is hindered by their instability under alkaline conditions, elevated temperatures, and light exposure. In contrast, arbutin exhibits superior stability while also functioning as a TYR inhibitor. To overcome these limitations, this study developed an Anthocyanin-α-Arbutin Co-amorphous (AAC) system aimed at enhancing both the stability of anthocyanins and their TYR inhibitory properties. Kinetic studies revealed that anthocyanins, arbutin, and AAC act as reversible mixed-type TYR inhibitors, with competitive inhibition as the predominant mechanism. Each compound exhibited distinct inhibition sites. Fluorescence analysis demonstrated that anthocyanins induce a fluorescence burst in TYR, likely attributed to Tyr residues, whereas α-arbutin and AAC enhance the fluorescence intensity of TYR. Moreover, α-arbutin and AAC were found to decrease the microenvironmental hydrophobicity surrounding tyrosine (Tyr) residues while increasing it around tryptophan (Trp) residues, suggesting potential conformational changes in tyrosinase. Molecular docking analysis indicated that hydrogen bonding and π-π stacking interactions occurred between anthocyanins and arbutin in the AAC system. Specifically, anthocyanins primarily interacted with TYR through π-π and π-alkyl interactions, while α-arbutin predominantly bound to TYR via hydrogen bonding. Consistent with the interaction study, α-arbutin was found to associate with tyrosinase mainly through hydrogen bonding and van der Waals forces. These findings provide novel insights into the interactions between anthocyanins and α-arbutin in the context of food science and lay a foundation for the development of innovative TYR inhibitors.

Piperine Regulates Melanogenesis through ERK Activation and Proteasomal Degradation of MITF

Melanin is a bio-pigment molecule synthesized by melanocytes. Its role is to shield the skin from ultraviolet radiation. Nonetheless, aberrant melanin production, whether excessive or deficient, can lead to conditions such as vitiligo, freckles, melanocytic nevi, and even melanoma. The biosynthetic pathway of melanin is known as melanogenesis, which is regulated by various transcription factors and enzymatic processes. Piperine (PPN), an alkaloid compound extracted from Piper retrofractum Vahl., was investigated for its potential anti-fungal and anti-inflammatory effects. Our hypothesis centered on the inhibition of melanin biosynthesis in response to PPN treatment. Subsequently, it was observed that PPN treatment resulted in a dose-dependent reduction in melanin production, accompanied by a decrease in tyrosinase activity. Furthermore, PPN was found to downregulate the protein levels of key melanogenesis-related genes. Additionally, PPN was observed to elevate the phosphorylation levels of ERK. To assess the role of ERK signaling in PPN-induced melanogenesis regulation, PD98059, an ERK inhibitor, was used. When Melan-A cells were treated with PD98059, the reduced expression level of MITF and melanin content induced by piperine were restored. Additionally, phosphorylation of ERK increased the phosphorylation of MITF at Ser73. This phosphorylated MITF leads to ubiquitination, and ultimately, the protein level of MITF decreases through proteasomal degradation. Likewise, when Melan-A cells were treated with MG132, a proteasomal inhibitor, the reduced expression level of MITF and melanin content induced by piperine were restored. Consequently, PPN can be a potential candidate for application as a skin whitening agent or in formulations to mitigate hyperpigmentation.

Peptide Design for Enhanced Anti-Melanogenesis: Optimizing Molecular Weight, Polarity, and Cyclization

Melanogenesis is a biochemical process that regulates skin pigmentation, which is crucial role in protecting against ultraviolet radiation. It is also associated with hyperpigmentation conditions such as melasma and age spots, which negatively impact aesthetics and self-confidence. Tyrosinase (TYR), a key enzyme in the melanogenesis pathway, catalyzes the biosynthesis of melanin in the skin. Inhibition of tyrosinase particularly by blocking its active site and preventing the binding of natural substrates such as tyrosine, can reduce melanin production, making it a promising therapeutic target for treating hyperpigmentation. Peptides have emerged as promising therapeutics to regulate melanogenesis by minimizing the side effects associated with conventional skin whitening therapeutics. This review is designed to offer a comprehensive analysis of current strategies in peptide design aimed at optimizing anti-melanogenic activity, by focusing on the role of molecular weight, polarity, and cyclization strategies in enhancing peptide efficacy and stability. It was found that optimal peptide size was within the range of 400-600 Da. The balance between hydrophilic and hydrophobic properties in peptides is crucial for effective TYR inhibition, as higher hydrophilicity enhances affinity for the TYR active site and stronger catalytic inhibition, while hydrophobicity can contribute through alternative mechanisms. Cyclization of peptides enhances their structural stability, serum resistance, and binding affinity while reducing toxicity. This process increases resistance to enzymatic degradation and improves target specificity by limiting conformational flexibility. Additionally, the rigidity and internal hydrogen bonding of cyclic peptides can aid in membrane permeability, making them more effective for therapeutic use. Peptide optimizations through size modification, polarity change, and cyclization strategies have been shown to be promising as reliable and safe agents for melanin inhibition. Future studies exploring specific amino acid in peptide chains are required to improve efficacy and potential clinical applications of these anti-melanogenic peptides as a hyperpigmentation treatment.

Ellagitannins From Pomegranate Flower With Whitening and Anti-Skin Photoaging Effect

A new depside glucoside rosarugoside E (1), together with four known compounds punicalagin (2), corilagin (3), granatin B (4), and ellagic acid (5) were isolated from the ethanol extract of pomegranate (Punica granatum L.) flower. Their structures were identified based on careful analysis of various spectral data including ultraviolet, infrared, high-resolution electrospray ionization-mass spectrometry, and 1D and 2D nuclear magnetic resonance. The whitening and anti-aging effects of all compounds were evaluated based on the levels of protein and gene. The result displayed that all compounds exhibited inhibitory activity for tyrosinase at maximum safe concentration, except for compound 2. Compounds 3 and 5 exhibited significant inhibitory activity for tyrosinase, indicating their whitening efficacy. The anti-aging activity evaluation assay showed that all compounds could downregulate the expression of the MMP1 gene, decrease the expression of matrix metalloproteinase 1, and increase the content of type 1 collagen at the maximum safe concentration compared with negative control (ultraviolet A irradiation treatment).

Phenoxy-1,2-dioxetane-based activatable chemiluminescent probes: tuning of photophysical properties for tracing enzymatic activities in living cells

The use of chemiluminophores for tracing enzymatic activities in live-cell imaging has gained significant attention, making them valuable tools for diagnostic applications. Among various chemiluminophores, the phenoxy-1,2-dioxetane scaffold exhibits significant structural versatility and its activation is governed by the chemically initiated electron exchange luminescence (CIEEL) mechanism. This mechanism can be initiated by enzymatic activity, changes in pH, or other chemical stimuli. The photophysical properties of phenoxy-1,2-dioxetanes can be fine-tuned through the incorporation of different substituents on the phenolic ring and by anchoring them with specific triggers. This review discusses the variations in physicochemical properties, including emission maxima, quantum yield, aqueous solubility, and pKa, as influenced by structural modifications, thereby establishing a comprehensive structure-activity relationship. Furthermore, it categorises the probes based on different enzyme classes, such as hydrolase-sensitive probes, oxidoreductase-responsive probes, and transferase-activatable phenoxy-1,2-dioxetanes, offering a promising platform technology for the early diagnosis of diseases and disorders. The summary section highlights key opportunities and limitations associated with applying phenoxy-1,2-dioxetanes in achieving precise and effective enzyme assays.

Kinetic studies, molecular docking, and antioxidant activity of novel 1,3-diphenyl pyrazole-thiosemicarbazone with anti-tyrosinase and anti-melanogenesis properties

This study reports the Design Hypothesis of a novel series of 1,3-diphenyl pyrazole-thiosemicarbazone as novel tyrosinase inhibitors (TYRI). The designed compounds were prepared and their TYRI activity and mechanisms were studied. The results showed that the selected compounds exhibited potent tyrosinase inhibitory activities greater than that of kojic acid (KA). Lead candidates, denoted as 6g and 6n, with a para-hydroxyphenyl group attached to the 3-position of the pyrazole ring demonstrated IC50 values of 2.09 and 3.18 µM, respectively. The potency of these compounds was approximately 5-8 times higher than that of KA. The in vitro melanin content of 6g or 6n-treated melanoma cells resulted in significant efficacy in melanin reduction. The DPPH assay result revealed that the tyrosinase inhibition mechanism for these derivatives was independent of a redox effect and corresponded to the interaction with tyrosinase. According to the Lineweaver-Burk plot, the most potent compounds, 6g and 6n, exhibit a mixed type of inhibition, primarily noncompetitive inhibition. In silico molecular docking studies were employed to determine the binding mode and explore the Design Hypothesis in detail. The results suggested that these compounds could be considered promising leads for the further development of novel inhibitors to treat disorders related to tyrosinase.

Amelanotic Melanoma-Biochemical and Molecular Induction Pathways

Amelanotic melanoma (AM) is a subtype of hypomelanotic or completely amelanotic melanoma. AM is a rare subtype of melanoma that exhibits a higher recurrence rate and aggressiveness as well as worse surveillance than typical melanoma. AM shows a dysregulation of melanin production, cell cycle control, and apoptosis pathways. Knowing these pathways has an application in medicine due to targeted therapies based on the inhibiting elements of the abovementioned pathways. Therefore, we summarized and discussed AM biochemical and molecular induction pathways and personalized medicine approaches, clinical management, and future directions due to the fact that AM is relatively rare. AM is commonly misdiagnosed. Hence, the role of biomarkers is becoming significant. Nonetheless, there is a shortage of biomarkers specific to AM. BRAF, NRAS, and c-KIT genes are the main targets of therapy. However, the role of BRAF and KIT in AM varied among studies. BRAF inhibitors combined with MAK inhibitors demonstrate better results. Immune checkpoint inhibitors targeting CTLA-4 combined with a programmed death receptor 1 (PD-1) show better outcomes than separately. Fecal microbiota transplantation may overcome resistance to immune checkpoint therapy of AM. Immune-modulatory vaccines against indoleamine 2,3-dioxygenase (IDO) and PD ligand (PD-L1) combined with nivolumab may be efficient in melanoma treatment.

Design, Synthesis, and Anti-Melanogenic Activity of 2-Mercaptomethylbenzo[d]imidazole Derivatives Serving as Tyrosinase Inhibitors: An In Silico, In Vitro, and In Vivo Exploration

2-Mercaptomethylbenzo[d]imidazole (2-MMBI) derivatives were designed and synthesized as tyrosinase (TYR) chelators using 2-mercaptomethylimidazole scaffolds. Seven of the ten 2-MMBI derivatives exhibited stronger inhibition of mushroom TYR activity than kojic acid. Their ability to chelate copper ions was demonstrated through experiments using the copper chelator pyrocatechol violet and assays measuring TYR activity in the presence or absence of exogenous CuSO4. The inhibition mechanisms of derivatives 1, 3, 8, and 9, which showed excellent TYR inhibitory activity, were elucidated through kinetic studies and supported by the docking simulation results. Derivatives 3, 7, 8, and 10 significantly inhibited cellular TYR activity and melanin production in B16F10 cells in a dose-dependent manner, with stronger potency than kojic acid. Furthermore, in situ, derivatives 7 and 10 showed stronger inhibitory effects on B16F10 cell TYR activity than kojic acid. Six derivatives, including 8, showed highly potent depigmentation in zebrafish larvae, outpacing kojic acid even at 200-670 times lower concentrations. Additionally, all derivatives could scavenge for reactive oxygen species without causing cytotoxicity in epidermal cells. These results suggested that 2-MMBI derivatives are promising anti-melanogenic agents.

A review of therapies for hyperpigmentation modulating the synthesis of eumelanin to pheomelanin

There are significant psychosocial burdens in patients with hyperpigmentation, which emphasizes the importance of treatment. Current gold standard for treatment is hydroquinone; however, alternatives have been developed given the concern for side effects of hydroquinone. Melanogenesis is responsible for the production of eumelanin and pheomelanin; there are many factors that will determine whether eumelanin or pheomelanin will be produced. Eumelanin is known for its photoprotective qualities, while pheomelanin is implicated in photocarcinogenesis and photoaging. Multiple treatment modalities for hyperpigmentation that shift eumelanin to pheomelanin synthesis exist. Cysteamine, glutathione, kojic acid, and methyl sulfonyl methane are four agents used to treat hyperpigmentation by shifting the production of eumelanin to pheomelanin. It is critical to discuss photoprotection with patients to help reduce the potential impact of increased pheomelanin production and to expand research in this area.

Potential Wound Healing and Anti-Melanogenic Activities in Skin Cells of Aralia elata (Miq.) Seem. Flower Essential Oil and Its Chemical Composition

Aralia elata (Miq.) Seem. (AES; family Araliaceae) is a medicinal plant and has been reported to have various bioactivities, including anticancer and hepatotoxicity protective activities. However, no studies have investigated the biological activities of AES or its extracts on skin. To address this, we aimed to explore the effect of AES-flower-derived absolute-type essential oil (AESFEO) on skin-related biological activities, especially skin wound healing and whitening-related responses in skin cells (human-derived keratinocytes [HaCaT cells] and melanocytes [B16BL6 cells]) and to identify the components of AESFEO. Cell biological activities were analyzed using WST and BrdU incorporation assays, ELISA, or by immunoblotting. In HaCaT cells, AESFEO promoted proliferation, type IV collagen production, and enhanced the phosphorylations of Erk1/2, p38 MAPK, JNK, and Akt. In B16BL6 cells, AESFEO reduced serum-induced proliferation, α-MSH-stimulated increases in melanin synthesis and tyrosinase activity, and α-MSH-induced increases in MITF, tyrosinase, TRP-1, and TRP-2 expressions. In addition, AESFEO inhibited the phosphorylation of Erk1/2, p38 MAPK, and JNK in α-MSH-stimulated B16BL6 cells. Eighteen compounds were identified in AESFEO by GC/MS. These results suggest that AESFEO has beneficial effects on keratinocyte activities related to skin wound healing and melanocyte activities related to inhibition of skin pigmentation. AESFEO may serve as a useful natural substance for developing agents that facilitate skin wound healing and inhibit melanogenesis.

Natural products as tyrosinase inhibitors

Tyrosinase is a crucial copper-containing enzyme involved in the production of melanin. Melasma, age spots, and freckles are examples of hyperpigmentation diseases caused by excess production of melanin. Inhibiting tyrosinase activity is a crucial method for treating these disorders along with various applications such as cosmetics, food technology, and medicine. Natural products have proven a rich source of tyrosinase inhibitors, with several molecules from plant, marine, and microbial sources showing potential inhibitory action. This chapter provides a complete overview of natural compounds that have been found as tyrosinase inhibitors, with emphasis on their structures, modes of action, and prospective applications.

Anti-Melanogenic and Anti-Inflammatory Effects of 2'-Hydroxy-4',6'-dimethoxychalcone in B16F10 and RAW264.7 Cells

Chalcone is a type of flavonoid compound that is widely biosynthesized in plants. Studies have shown that consuming flavonoids from fruits and vegetables or applying individual ingredients reduces the risk of skin disease. However, the effects of chalcone on melanogenesis and inflammation have not been fully investigated. The aim of this study was to evaluate the anti-melanogenic and anti-inflammatory effects of 2'-hydroxy-3,4'-dimethoxychalcone (3,4'-DMC), 2'-hydroxy-4,4'-dimethoxychalcone (4,4'-DMC), 2'-hydroxy-3',4'-dimethoxychalcone (3',4'-DMC), and 2'-hydroxy-4',6'-dimethoxychalcone (4',6'-DMC). Among the derivatives of 2'-hydroxy-4'-methoxychalcone, 4',6'-DMC demonstrated the most potent melanogenesis-inhibitory and anti-inflammatory effects. As evidenced by various biological assays, 4',6'-DMC showed no cytotoxicity and notably decreased the expression of tyrosinase, tyrosinase-related protein (TRP)-1, and TRP-2 enzymes. Furthermore, it reduced cellular melanin content and intracellular tyrosinase activity in B16F10 melanoma cells by downregulating microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF), cAMP-dependent protein kinase (PKA), cAMP response element-binding protein (CREB), p38, c-Jun N-terminal kinase (JNK), β-catenin, glycogen synthase kinase-3β (GSK3β), and protein kinase B (AKT) proteins, while upregulating extracellular signal-regulated kinase (ERK) and p-β-catenin. Additionally, treatment with 4',6'-DMC significantly mitigated the lipopolysaccharide (LPS)-induced expression of NO, PGE2, inflammatory cytokines, COX-2, and iNOS proteins. Overall, 4',6'-DMC treatment notably alleviated LPS-induced damage by reducing nuclear factor kappa B (NF-κB), p38, JNK protein levels, and NF-kB/p65 nuclear translocation. Finally, the topical applicability of 4',6'-DMC was evaluated in a preliminary human skin irritation test and no adverse effects were found. These findings suggest that 4',6'-DMC may offer new possibilities for use as functional ingredients in cosmeceuticals and ointments.

UHPLC-ESI-QTOF-MS metabolite profiles of different extracts from Pelargonium endlicherianum parts and their biological properties based on network pharmacological approaches

In the present study, we aimed to investigate the chemical profiles and biological activities of different extracts (ethyl acetate, dichloromethane, ethanol, and water) of Pelargonium endlicherianum parts (aerial parts and roots). Free radical scavenging, reducing power, phosphomolybdenum, and metal chelating were assayed for antioxidant properties. To detect enzyme inhibitory properties, cholinesterase, amylase, glucosidase, and tyrosinase were chosen as target enzymes. The ethanol extract of the aerial parts contained higher amounts of total bioactive compounds (120.53 mg GAE/g-24.46 mg RE/g). The ethanol and water extracts of these parts were tentatively characterized by UHPLC-ESI-QTOF-MS and 95 compounds were annotated. In addition, the highest acetylcholiesterase (3.74 mg GALAE/g) and butyrylcholinesterase (3.92 mg GALAE/g) abilities were observed by the ethanol extract of roots. The water extract from aerial parts exhibited the most pronounced inhibitory effects on multiple cancer cell lines, especially A549 (IC50: 23.2 µg/mL) and HT-29 (IC50: 27.43 µg/mL) cells. Using network pharmacology, P. endlicherianum compounds were studied against cancer, revealing well-connected targets such as epidermal growth factor receptor (EGFR), phosphoinositide-3-kinase (PI3K), AKT, receptor tyrosine-protein kinase erbB-2, and growth factor receptor bound protein 2 (GRB2) with significant impact on cancer-related pathways. The results could open a new path from natural treasure to functional applications with P. endlicherianum and highlight a new study on other uninvestigated Pelargonium species.

Anti-Melanogenic Effects of Takifugu flavidus Muscle Hydrolysate in B16F10 Melanoma Cells and Zebrafish

Abnormal melanogenesis can lead to hyperpigmentation. Tyrosinase (TYR), a key rate-limiting enzyme in melanin production, is an important therapeutic target for these disorders. We investigated the TYR inhibitory activity of hydrolysates extracted from the muscle tissue of Takifugu flavidus (TFMH). We used computer-aided virtual screening to identify a novel peptide that potently inhibited melanin synthesis, simulated its binding mode to TYR, and evaluated functional efficacy in vitro and in vivo. TFMH inhibited the diphenolase activities of mTYR, reducing TYR substrate binding activity and effectively inhibiting melanin synthesis. TFMH indirectly reduced cAMP response element-binding protein phosphorylation in vitro by downregulating melanocortin 1 receptor expression, thereby inhibiting expression of the microphthalmia-associated transcription factor, further decreasing TYR, tyrosinase related protein 1, and dopachrome tautomerase expression and ultimately impeding melanin synthesis. In zebrafish, TFMH significantly reduced black spot formation. TFMH (200 μg/mL) decreased zebrafish TYR activity by 43% and melanin content by 52%. Molecular dynamics simulations over 100 ns revealed that the FGFRSP (T-6) peptide stably binds mushroom TYR via hydrogen bonds and ionic interactions. T-6 (400 μmol/L) reduced melanin content in B16F10 melanoma cells by 71% and TYR activity by 79%. In zebrafish, T-6 (200 μmol/L) inhibited melanin production by 64%. TFMH and T-6 exhibit good potential for the development of natural skin-whitening cosmetic products.

Anthraquinones from Rhamnus alaternus L.: A Phytocosmetic Ingredient with Photoprotective and Antimelanogenesis Properties

The purpose of the present work was to develop a phytocosmetic sunscreen emulsion with antioxidant activity and an anti-melanogenic effect, containing an anthraquinone-enriched extract of Rhamnus alaternus (A.E.). Our findings demonstrated that A.E. decreased the levels of reactive oxygen species, DNA damage, and malondialdehyde induced by UVA in human keratinocytes and melanocytes. Furthermore, the calculated SPF value in vitro of the cream containing A.E. was 14.26±0.152. Later, it was shown that A.E. extract had an inhibitory effect on the amount of melanin. This extract could also reduce B16F10 intracellular tyrosinase activity. Besides, docking studies were carried out to provide a logical justification for the anti-tyrosinase potential. The findings showed that, A.E. may provide protection against UVA-induced oxidative stress and could be thought of as a viable treatment for hyperpigmentation disorders.

Development of kojic acid loaded collagen-chitosan nanoparticle as skin lightener product: in vitro and in vivo assessment

In the present study, an ionic gelation and ultrasonic approach was performed to produce kojic acid (KA) loaded chitosan(CS)/collagen(CN) nanoparticle(NP) (CSCN-NP) which aimed to increase the dermal delivery and anti-pigmentation effect. To optimize the CSCN-NP the effect of the amount of CN was investigated. The results showed that increasing CN from 0 to 500 mg increased the mean particle size and entrapment efficiency of KA-CSCN-NP from 266.07 ± 9.30 nm to 404.23 ± 9.44 nm and 17.37 ± 2.06% to 82.34 ± 2.16%, respectively. Differential scanning calorimetry confirmed the amorphous form of KA in CSCN-NP, while scanning electron microscopy revealed that the nanoparticles were spherical. There was no chemical interaction between KA and the other components base on attenuated total reflectance-Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy. The skin permeability test showed that KA-CSCN-NP gel delivered more KA to the dermal layers (29.16 ± 1.67% or 537.26 ± 537.26 μg/cm2) and receiver compartment (15.04 ± 1.47% or 277.15 ± 27.22 μg/cm2) compared to KA plain gel. In vitro cytotoxicity assay demonstrated that the improved KA-CSCN-NP was non-toxic. Dermal irritating test on Wistar rats showed that the KA gel was non-irritating. Furthermore, KA-CSCN-NP was found to inhibit melanin formation to a greater extent than free KA and significantly inhibited L-dopa auto-oxidation (94.80 ± 2.41%) compared to pure kojic acid solution (75.28 ± 3.22%). The observations of this study revealed that the produced KA-CSCN-NP might be used as a potential nano-vehicle for KA dermal administration, thereby opening up innovative options for the management of hyper-melanogenesis problems.

Plants with cosmetic uses

The use of plants as a source of active principles for cosmetics has significantly increased in the last few years. Safety, compatibility with all types of skin, fewer side effects, and availability are among the advantages of herbal cosmetics above synthetic ingredients. The present review aims to explore the most important plants used in cosmetics. A literature search was carried out in several electronic databases with the following phrases: skincare and plants; cosmetics and plants; natural and cosmetics; and natural and skincare. Furthermore, more detailed filters such as clinical studies, meta-analyses, and systemic reviews were applied to positive results. Various plants and plant extracts currently used in skin care, scaring, whitening, and aging, as well as in sun protection, acne, eczema, and others, have been included in this review. The effectiveness of these plants is based mainly on preclinical research, and to a lesser extent on clinical studies. Some plant extracts or oils have been tested clinically, such as onions, aloe, and tea tree oil, more than other plant extracts. Despite many studies on natural products to improve dermal needs, proper clinical cosmeceutical trials are much fewer than expected. Therefore, more clinical trials are needed to evaluate appropriate efficacy. Furthermore, new formulation technologies might enhance the cosmeceutical benefits, but more work is warranted.

Tripeptides conjugated with thiosemicarbazones: new inhibitors of tyrosinase for cosmeceutical use

The development of skin-care products is recently growing. Cosmetic formulas containing active ingredients with proven efficacy, namely cosmeceuticals, are based on various compounds, including peptides. Different whitening agents featuring anti-tyrosinase activity have been applied in the cosmeceutical field. Despite their availability, their applicability is often limited due to several drawbacks including toxicity, lack of stability, and other factors. In this work, we present the inhibitory effect on diphenolase activity of thiosemicarbazone (TSC)-peptide conjugates. Tripeptides FFY, FWY, and FYY were conjugated with three TSCs bearing one or two aromatic rings via amide bond formation in a solid phase. Compounds were then examined as tyrosinase and melanogenesis inhibitors in murine melanoma B16F0 cell line, followed by the cytotoxicity assays of these cells. In silico investigations explained the differences in the activity, observed among tested compounds. Mushroom tyrosinase was inhibited by TSC1-conjugates at micromolar level, with IC₅₀ lower than this for kojic acid, a widely used reference compound. Up to now, this is the first report regarding thiosemicarbazones conjugated with tripeptides, synthesised for the purpose of tyrosinase inhibition.

In vitro evaluation of p-coumaric acid and naringin combination in human epidermoid carcinoma cell line (A431)

Cancer is considered most detrimental due to high mortality worldwide. Among them, skin cancers play a major part by affecting one in three cancer patients globally. About 2-3 million cancer cases were reported to be non-melanoma and melanoma skin cancers, respectively. Although chemotherapeutic drugs act on cancer cells but results in long-lasting morbidities which affects one's quality of life and also works only in the initial stage of the cancer. Hence, an idea of traditional medicine to cure the disease efficiently with less side effects was pursued by the researchers. We have assessed the combination effect of p-coumaric acid and naringin in exerting anticancer activity using A431 (epidermoid carcinoma) cells. The MTT analysis of the combination on A431 cells showed the least IC50 concentration of 41 µg/ml which is effective than the standard drug imiquimod with IC50 concentration of 52 µg/ml. Further, flow cytometric analysis was carried out to identify the molecular mechanism behind the anticancer effects of the combination. The results revealed that the combination arrested the A431 cell cycle at S phase, induced apoptosis as indicated by more early and late apoptotic cells when compared with the control, and further altered reactive oxygen species (ROS) and mitochondrial membrane potential in A431 cells. Hence, the results suggest the potential anticancer effects of p-coumaric acid and naringin combination against the skin cancer (A431) cell line. The observed effects may be additive or synergistic effects in inducing ROS generation and apoptosis, and reducing the viability of A431 cells.

Transcriptome analysis reveals core lncRNA-mRNA networks regulating melanization and biomineralization in Patinopecten yessoensis shell-infested by Polydora

BACKGROUND

Patinopecten yessoensis, a large and old molluscan group, has been one of the most important aquaculture shellfish in Asian countries because of its high economic value. However, the aquaculture of the species has recently been seriously affected by the frequent outbreaks of Polydora disease, causing great economic losses. Long non-coding RNAs (lncRNAs) exhibit exhibit crucial effects on diverse biological processes, but still remain poorly studied in scallops, limiting our understanding of the molecular regulatory mechanism of P. yessoensis in response to Polydora infestation.

RESULTS

In this study, a high-throughput transcriptome analysis was conducted in the mantles of healthy and Polydora-infected P. yessoensis by RNA sequencing. A total of 19,133 lncRNAs with 2,203 known and 16,930 novel were identified. The genomic characterizations of lncRNAs showed shorter sequence and open reading frame (ORF) length, fewer number of exons and lower expression levels in comparison with mRNAs. There were separately 2280 and 1636 differentially expressed mRNAs and lncRNAs (DEGs and DELs) detected in diseased individuals. The target genes of DELs were determined by both co-location and co-expression analyses. Functional enrichment analysis revealed that DEGs involved in melanization and biomineralization were significantly upregulated; further, obviously increased melanin granules were observed in epithelial cells of the edge mantle in diseased scallops by histological and TEM study, indicating the crucial role of melanizaiton and biomineralization in P. yessoensis to resist against Polydora infestation. Moreover, many key genes, such as Tyrs, Frizzled, Wnts, calmodulins, Pifs, perlucin, laccase, shell matrix protein, mucins and chitins, were targeted by DELs. Finally, a core lncRNA-mRNA interactive network involved in melanization and biomineralization was constructed and validated by qRT-PCR.

CONCLUSIONS

This work provides valuable resources for studies of lncRNAs in scallops, and adds a new insight into the molecular regulatory mechanisms of P. yessoensis defending against Polydora infestation, which will contribute to Polydora disease control and breeding of disease-resistant varieties in molluscs.

Antimelanogenic Effect of Isoquinoline Alkaloids from Plumula Nelumbinis

Plumula Nelumbinis, the green embryo of a lotus seed, is widely consumed in China as a well-known food with medicinal effects. In this study, 14 alkaloids, including 4 new and 10 known alkaloids, were isolated from it, which were elucidated by comprehensive spectroscopic analysis, and were investigated for their antimelanogenic effects in vitro and in vivo. As a result, melanogenesis in α-MSH-stimulated B16F10 cells was reduced significantly by a new compound 4 and known compound 12 at a concentration of 0.5 μg/mL, and the tyrosinase (TYR) activities were inhibited by 78.7 and 82.0% at 4 μg/mL, prior to α-arbutin (41.3%). Additionally, compounds 4 and 12 also exhibited superior antimelanogenic effects compared to α-arbutin on a zebrafish assay model at equivalent concentrations. Mechanistically, our preliminary findings suggested that compounds 4 and 12 exerted antimelanogenesis effect probably by inhibiting key proteins involved in melanin production such as microphthalmia-associated transcription factor, TYR, TRP-1, and TRP-2. The findings highlight the potential use of Plumula Nelumbinis containing compounds 4 and 12 as functional foods for treating hyperpigmentation.

Control of biomaterial-associated infections through biofabrication of gold nanoparticles using Musa sapientum extract

Biofilm-associated infections are a critical element in infectious diseases and play an important role in antibiotic resistance. Biosynthesized gold nanoparticles (AuNPs) using ethanolic extract of Musa sapientum unripe fruit were performed. The nanoparticles demonstrated an absorption peak at 554 nm with particle sizes ranging from 5.45 to 104.44 nm. High negative zeta potential value of -33.97 mV confirmed the high stability of AuNPs. The presence of bioconstituents responsible for capping and stabilization was indicated by intensity changes of several peaks from Fourier-transform infrared spectroscopy analysis. The minimum inhibitory concentrations (MIC) of the biosynthesized AuNPs against important pathogens ranged from 10 to 40 μg mL-1 . Synthesized nanoparticles at 0.062 to 0.5 × MIC significantly inhibited biofilm formation in all the tested microorganisms (p < 0.05). Scanning electron microscopy and confocal scanning laser microscopy images clearly illustrated in disruption and architectural changes of microbial biofilms at sub-MIC of biosynthesized AuNPs. Excellent antioxidant and antityrosinase activities of AuNPs were observed. The biosynthesized AuNPs at 20 μg mL-1 significantly inhibited nitric oxide production by 93% in lipopolysaccharide-stimulated RAW 264.7 cells, compared with control (p < 0.05). The biosynthesized AuNPs at 0.6 to 40 μg mL-1 demonstrated no toxic effects on L929 fibroblast cells.

Eco-friendly preparation, characterization, evaluation of anti-melanogenesis/antioxidant effect and in vitro/in vivo safety profile of kojic acid loaded niosome as skin lightener preparation

In the current study, an ultrasonic approach (as green method) was utilized to prepared kojic acid niosome (kojisome) which aimed to increase the dermal delivery and improving anti-melanogenesis properties. The study's findings demonstrated that increasing cholesterol enhanced the mean particle size from 68.333 ± 5.686 nm to 325.000 ± 15.099 nm and entrapment efficiency 0% to 39.341 ± 4.126% of the kojisome. Cholesterol may enhance the number and rigidity of bilayers that induced a size enhancement and entrapment efficiency. The skin permeability test revealed that kojisome gel had more kojic acid in dermal layers (437.563 ± 29.857 μg/cm2 or 16.624 ± 1.379%) than kojic acid plain gel (161.290 ± 14.812 μg/cm2 or 6.128 ± 0.672%). The niosome's lipophilicity allowed for gradual penetration, possibly due to better contact with the skin layers. Also, the extended-release behavior of improved kojisome exhibited high safety profile and low side effect in In vitro cytotoxicity assay, dermal irritation test, and Histo-pathological evaluation. Furthermore, optimum kojisome inhibited melanin formation (53.093 ± 2.985% at 1000 µM) higher than free kojic acid (62.383 ± 1.958%) significantly (p < 0.05). In addition, Kojisome 6 inhibited L-dopa auto-oxidation greater extent (94.806 ± 2.411%) than pure kojic acid solution (72.953 ± 2.728%). Kojisome by delivering and targeting large amount of kojic acid on specific site causes high efficacy in inhibition of melanin synthesis. The observations of this study revealed that the produced kojisome might be used as a potential nano-vehicle for kojic acid dermal administration, thereby opening up innovative options for the treatment of hyperpigmentation problems.

Anhydrous Alum Inhibits α-MSH-Induced Melanogenesis by Down-Regulating MITF via Dual Modulation of CREB and ERK

Melanogenesis, the intricate process of melanin synthesis, is central to skin pigmentation and photoprotection and is regulated by various signaling pathways and transcription factors. To develop potential skin-whitening agents, we used B16F1 melanoma cells to investigate the inhibitory effects of anhydrous alum on melanogenesis and its underlying molecular mechanisms. Anhydrous alum (KAl(SO4)2) with high purity (>99%), which is generated through the heat-treatment of hydrated alum (KAl(SO4)2·12H2O) at 400 °C, potentiates a significant reduction in melanin content without cytotoxicity. Anhydrous alum downregulates the master regulator of melanogenesis, microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF), which targets key genes involved in melanogenesis, thereby inhibiting α-melanocyte-stimulating hormone (α-MSH)-induced melanogenesis. Phosphorylation of the cAMP response element-binding protein, which acts as a co-activator of MITF gene expression, is attenuated by anhydrous alum, resulting in compromised MITF transcription. Notably, anhydrous alum promoted extracellular signal-regulated kinase phosphorylation, leading to the impaired nuclear localization of MITF. Overall, these results demonstrated the generation and mode of action of anhydrous alum in B16F1 cells, which constitutes a promising option for cosmetic or therapeutic use.

Soy Protein Containing Isoflavones Improves Facial Signs of Photoaging and Skin Hydration in Postmenopausal Women: Results of a Prospective Randomized Double-Blind Controlled Trial

Preliminary findings from multiple studies indicate that dietary intake of soy-derived isoflavones exert beneficial effects on the skin including defense against oxidant damage, stimulation of collagen synthesis, and increased hydration. This study aims to investigate how oral supplementation of a soy protein isolate with added isoflavones (SPII) affects components of photoaging such as facial wrinkles and dyspigmentation, and skin biophysical measures such as skin hydration and sebum excretion in postmenopausal women. This 6-month prospective, randomized double-blind controlled study was conducted on 44 postmenopausal women with Fitzpatrick skin types I, II, and III who were randomized to receive either casein protein or SPII. A high-resolution facial photography system was used to measure wrinkle severity and pigmentation at 0, 8, 16, and 24 weeks. Skin biophysical measurements included skin hydration and sebum production. The average wrinkle severity was decreased in the SPII intervention group at week 16 and week 24 by 5.9% and 7.1%, respectively, compared to the baseline. Compared to the casein group, average wrinkle severity was significantly decreased at week 16 (p < 0.05) and week 24 (p < 0.0001). Facial pigment intensity was decreased by -2.5% (p < 0.05) at week 24, whereas there was no significant change in the casein group. Compared to baseline, skin hydration in the SPII group was significantly increased by 39% and 68% on the left and right cheeks (p < 0.05), respectively, at 24 weeks. There were no significant differences in sebum production. Dietary soy protein supplementation with isoflavones may improve skin photoaging, including wrinkles and dyspigmentation, and increase skin hydration in postmenopausal women with Fitzpatrick skin types I, II, and III.

In Vitro and In Vivo Antimelanogenesis Effects of Leaf Essential Oil from Agathis dammara

Agathis species are widely distributed around Southeast Asia, Australasia, South Pacific islands, and etc. Traditionally, Agathis species have been used as the folk medicines, the common ethnopharmacological uses of Agathis genus are the treatments of headache and myalgia. This study aims to investigate the chemical composition of Agathis dammara (Lamb.) Rich. leaf essential oil and to explore its antimelanogenesis effect. The chemical constituents of leaf essential oil are analyzed using gas chromatography-mass spectrometry (GC-MS), the major constituents of leaf essential oil are sesquiterpenoids. The major constituents are δ-cadinene (16.12%), followed by γ-gurjunene (15.57%), 16-kaurene (12.43%), β-caryophyllene (8.58%), germacrene D (8.53%), and γ-cadinene (5.33%). As for the in vitro antityrosinase activity, leaf essential oil inhibit the tyrosinase activity of mushroom when the substrate is 3,4-dihydroxyphenylalanine (L-DOPA). Leaf essential oil prevents tyrosinase from acting as diphenolase and catalyzing L-DOPA to dopaquinone, and converting into dark melanin pigments. A. dammara leaf essential oil also exhibits the in vivo antimelanogenesis effect, leaf essential oil reduces 43.48% of melanin formation in zebrafish embryos at the concentration of 50 μg/mL. Results reveal A. dammara leaf essential oil has the potential for developing the skin whitening drug and depigmentation ingredient for hyperpigmentary disorders.

EGCG, GCG, TFDG, or TSA Inhibiting Melanin Synthesis by Downregulating MC1R Expression

Without affecting cell viability, epigallocatechin gallate (EGCG), gallocatechin gallate (GCG), theaflavine-3,3'-digallate (TFDG), or theasinensin A (TSA) have been found to effectively reduce intracellular melanin content and tyrosinase (TYR) activity. However, studies on the anti-melanogenic mechanism of the above samples remain weak, and the activities of these samples in regulating melanogenesis at the molecular level lack comparison. Using B16F10 cells with the α-melanocyte-stimulating hormone (α-MSH) stimulation and without the α-MSH stimulation as models, the effects of EGCG, GCG, TFDG, or TSA on cell phenotypes and expression of key targets related to melanogenesis were studied. The results showed that α-MSH always promoted melanogenesis with or without adding the four samples. Meanwhile, the anti-melanogenic activities of the four samples were not affected by whether the α-MSH was added in the medium or not and the added time of the α-MSH. On this basis, the 100 µg/mL EGCG, GCG, TFDG, or TSA did not affect the TYR catalytic activity but inhibited melanin formation partly through downregulating the melanocortin 1 receptor (MC1R), microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF), and the TYR family. The downregulation abilities of catechins on the TYR family and MITF expression were stronger than those of dimers at both the transcription and translation levels, while the ability of dimers to downregulate the MC1R expression was stronger than that of catechins at both the transcription and translation levels to some extent. The results of molecular docking showed that these four samples could stably bind to MC1R protein. Taken together, this study offered molecular mechanisms for the anti-melanogenic activity of the EGCG, GCG, TFDG, and TSA, as potential effective components against the UV-induced tanning reactions, and a key target (MC1R) was identified.

Azelaic Acid Versus Hydroquinone for Managing Patients With Melasma: Systematic Review and Meta-Analysis of Randomized Controlled Trials

Melasma, a commonly acquired hyperpigmentation skin condition, is usually treated with topical agents as the first line of management. This systematic review and meta-analysis aimed to assess the efficacy and safety of azelaic acid versus hydroquinone in treating melasma patients. We conducted a comprehensive search across four online databases (PubMed, Scopus, Web of Science, and Cochrane Library) from the time of their creation until May 28, 2023. We considered randomized controlled studies comparing hydroquinone with azelaic acid for the treatment of melasma patients. We used the Cochrane Risk of Bias tool 2 to evaluate the risk of bias. The mean difference (MD) for continuous variables and the risk ratio (RR) for categorical variables, with a 95% confidence interval (CI) were pooled. Six studies were included, with a total of 673 patients with melasma. The azelaic acid had a lower mean change in melasma area severity index (MASI) than the hydroquinone group [MD= -1.23, 95% CI (-2.05, -0.40), P=0.004]. No difference was observed regarding the improvement via the objective response scale, the reduction in pigmentation, or the adverse events reported. However, despite not being statistically significantly different, there was a trend towards having more good responses in the azelaic acid group. Azelaic acid may be better than hydroquinone in reducing melasma severity (measured by MASI). However, larger studies with long-term follow-up are needed to validate these findings.

Anti-tyrosinase and antimelanogenic effect of cinnamic acid derivatives from Prunus mahaleb L.: Phenolic composition, isolation, identification and inhibitory activity

ETHNOPHARMACOLOGICAL RELEVANCE

The traditional use of Prunus species against skin diseases and especially for skin lightning cosmeceutical purposes is widespread in many cultures. Prunus mahaleb L. is a well known food plant and used in the baking industry for flavoring. The fruit kernels (endocarp) are used in India for hyperpigmentation.

AIM OF THE STUDY

To investigate the chemical composition with the antimelanogenesis effect of P. mahaleb seed and kernel extracts and isolated compounds.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

Isolation studies performed from the methanol extracts obtained from kernels and structures were determined using NMR and MS analysis. Antimelanogenesis effect was determined by mushroom tyrosinase assay, cellular tyrosinase assay and melanin content assay using B16F10 murine melanoma cells.

RESULTS

Five cinnamic acid derivatives were isolated and their structures (2-O-β-glucopyranosyloxy-4-methoxy-hydrocinnamic acid (1), cis-melilotoside (2), dihydromelilotoside (3), trans-melilotoside (4), 2-O-β-glucosyloxy-4-methoxy trans-cinnamic acid (5)) were elucidated using advanced spectroscopic methods. Mushroom tyrosinase enzyme inhibition of extracts, fractions and pure compounds obtained from P. mahaleb kernels were investigated and structure-activity relationship revealed. According to a detailed, comprehensive and validated LC-MS/MS technique analysis, vanilic acid (41.407 mg/g), protocatechuic acid (8.992 mg/g) and ferulic acid (4.962 mg/g) in the kernel ethylacetate fraction; quinic acid (14.183 mg/g), fumaric acid (8.349 mg/g) and aconitic acid (5.574 mg/g) were found as major phenolic compounds in the water fraction. The correlation of trace element copper content in extracts and fractions with mushroom enzyme activity was determined. By examining the enzyme kinetics of the compounds with effective cinnamic acid derivatives, inhibition types and enzyme binding constants K_i were calculated. Compounds 1,3 and 5 exhibited high noncompetitive tyrosinase inhibitory activity against L-tyrosine substrates, with IC₅₀ values of 0.22, 0.31 and 0.37 mM respectively. In addition compounds 1, 3 and 5 showed dose-dependent inhibitory effects on intracellular tyrosinase and melanin levels in α-melanocyte-stimulating hormone (α-MSH)-induced B16F10 melanoma cells.

CONCLUSIONS

Potent tyrosinase inhibitory compounds and extracts of P. mahaleb kernels suggest that it could be a new, non-toxic and inexpensive resource for the cosmeceutical industry and in skin diseases associated with hyperpigmentation.

Design, Synthesis, In Vitro, and In Silico Insights of 5-(Substituted benzylidene)-2-phenylthiazol-4(5H)-one Derivatives: A Novel Class of Anti-Melanogenic Compounds

(Z)-5-Benzylidene-2-phenylthiazol-4(5H)-one ((Z)-BPT) derivatives were designed by combining the structural characteristics of two tyrosinase inhibitors. The double-bond geometry of trisubstituted alkenes, (Z)-BPTs 1-14, was determined based on the ³J_C,Hβ coupling constant of ¹H-coupled ¹³C NMR spectra. Three (Z)-BPT derivatives (1-3) showed stronger tyrosinase inhibitory activities than kojic acid; in particular, 2 was to be 189-fold more potent than kojic acid. Kinetic analysis using mushroom tyrosinase indicated that 1 and 2 were competitive inhibitors, whereas 3 was a mixed-type inhibitor. The in silico results revealed that 1-3 could strongly bind to the active sites of mushroom and human tyrosinases, supporting the kinetic results. Derivatives 1 and 2 decreased the intracellular melanin contents in a concentration-dependent manner in B16F10 cells, and their anti-melanogenic efficacy exceeded that of kojic acid. The anti-tyrosinase activity of 1 and 2 in B16F10 cells was similar to their anti-melanogenic effects, suggesting that their anti-melanogenic effects were primarily owing to their anti-tyrosinase activity. Western blotting of B16F10 cells revealed that the derivatives 1 and 2 inhibited tyrosinase expression, which partially contributes to their anti-melanogenic ability. Several derivatives, including 2 and 3, exhibited potent antioxidant activities against ABTS cation radicals, DPPH radicals, ROS, and peroxynitrite. These results suggest that (Z)-BPT derivatives 1 and 2 have promising potential as novel anti-melanogenic agents.

Inhibition of Melanogenesis by Essential Oils from the Citrus Cultivars Peels

Citrus is one of the most popular and widely grown fruit crops in the world. However, the bioactivity of only certain species of citrus cultivars is studied. In this study, the effects of essential oils from 21 citrus cultivars on melanogenesis were investigated in an effort to identify active anti-melanogenesis constituents. The essential oils from the peels of 21 citrus cultivars obtained by hydro-distillation were analyzed using gas chromatography-mass spectrometry. Mouse melanoma B16BL6 cells were used in all assays conducted in this study. The tyrosinase activity and melanin content were determined using the lysate of α-Melanocyte-stimulated B16BL6 cells. In addition, the melanogenic gene expression was determined by quantitative reverse transcription-polymerase chain reaction. Overall, the essential oils of (Citrus unshiu X Citrus sinensis) X Citrus reticulata, Citrus reticulata, and ((Citrus unshiu X Citrus sinensis) X Citrus reticulata) X Citrus reticulata provided the best bioactivity and comprised five distinct constituents compared to other essential oils such as limonene, farnesene, β-elemene, terpinen-4-ol, and sabinene. The anti-melanogenesis activities of the five individual compounds were evaluated. Among the five essential oils, β-elemene, farnesene, and limonene showed dominating properties. The experimental results indicated that (Citrus unshiu X Citrus sinensis) X Citrus reticulata, Citrus reticulata, and ((Citrus unshiu X Citrus sinensis) X Citrus reticulata) X Citrus reticulara are potential candidates with anti-melanogenesis activity for use as cosmetics and pharmaceutical agents against skin hyperpigmentation.

Chemical Constituents from Streblus taxoides Wood with Their Antibacterial and Antityrosinase Activities Plus in Silico Study

Hyperpigmentation frequently occurs after inflammation from bacterial infection. Thus, the inhibition activity of tyrosinase, the key enzyme to catalyze the melanogenesis and/or inhibition of bacterial infection, could decrease melanin production. Hence, the potential inhibitors could be discovered from natural products. ω-Hydroxymoracin C (1), a new compound with two other 2-arylbenzofurans, i.e., moracin M (2) and moracin C (3), and two stilbenes, i.e., 3, 4, 3', 5'-tetrahydroxybibenzyl (4) and piceatannol (5), were isolated from the wood of Streblus taxoides. Compound 4 showed a strong inhibitory activity against tyrosinase enzyme with an IC₅₀ value of 35.65 µg/mL, followed by compound 2 with an IC₅₀ value of 47.34 µg/mL. Conversely, compound 1, 3 and 5 showed moderate activity, with IC₅₀ values of 109.64, 128.67 and 149.73 µg/mL, respectively. Moreover, compound 1 and 3 showed an antibacterial effect against some Staphylococcus spp. Thus, the isolated compounds exhibited potential antityrosine and antibacterial effects. Additionally, an in silico study was performed in order to predict theoretical molecular interactions between the obtained metabolites from S. taxoides and tyrosinase as an extended in vitro enzyme binding assay experiment.

Benefits of skin application of piceatannol-A minireview

The skin is the largest organ of the human body and has several functions such as barrier against external agents, the maintenance of temperature and homeostatic functions. Skin ageing is a natural process that can be influenced by environmental factors, intrinsic skin factors and lifestyle. UV light plays an important role in skin ageing and can cause spots, requiring the use of depigmenting agents. Nowadays, there is a great demand for ingredients that prevent skin ageing, with natural agents occupying a promising position. Among the natural agents, polyphenols, such as resveratrol and piceatannol, found in grapes, passion fruits and other fruits, have a huge relevance. Great benefits of piceatannol have been reported, so thus, this work focuses specifically on a review of the literature regarding the application of this polyphenol in skin care products. This polyphenol can be used in a wound-healing, or as anti-ageing, antioxidant, anti-acne and skin whitening, among other effects.

High-performance liquid chromatography micro-fraction bioactive evaluation combined with countercurrent chromatographic separation of antioxidants from Citrus peel and their tyrosinase inhibition activities

In the present study, high-performance liquid chromatography micro-fraction bioactive evaluation and high speed countercurrent chromatography were performed on screening, identification and isolation of antioxidants from Citrus peel. Three compounds were screened as antioxidants and tyrosinase inhibitors using 2,2'-azino-bis (3-ethyl-benzothiazoline-6-sulfonic acid) radical cation scavenging assay and tyrosinase activity test, then they were identified as eriocitrin, narirutin and hesperidin. Moreover, the solvent system ethyl acetate-n-butanol-water (6:4:10, v/v/v) was used for separation of ethyl acetate extract of Citrus peel by high speed countercurrent chromatography. In total, 0.45 mg of eriocitrin with 87.10% purity, 2.04 mg of narirutin with 95.19% purity and 1.35 mg of hesperidin with 95.19% purity were obtained from 20 mg of ethyl acetate extract of Citrus peel in a single run and then each component was subjected to 2,2'-azino-bis (3-ethyl-benzothiazoline-6-sulfonic acid) radical cation scavenging assay and tyrosinase inhibition assay. Eriocitrin showed great antioxidant activity (the half-maximum concentration: 3.65 µM) and tyrosinase inhibition activity (the half-maximum concentration: 115.67 µM), while narirutin and hesperidin exhibited moderate activity. Tyrosinase inhibition activity for eriocitrin in vitro was reported for the first time. Furthermore, molecular docking between eriocitrin and mushroom tyrosinase was also studied.

Anti-melanogenic effect of Moju through inhibition of tyrosinase activity

Background

Moju is a traditional rice beverage local to Jeonju with an alcohol content of 1–2%. Moju is made by boiling makgeolli with several kinds of medicinal herbs, such as ginger, jujube and cinnamon. The raw materials used in Moju are well known for their physiological and functional effects. Although Moju is made with functional raw materials, the operational role of Moju has not yet been reported.

Objectives

The aim of this study was to identify the anti-melanogenic effects of Moju in B16F10 melanoma cells and explore the potential mechanisms.

Results

In this study, we investigated the antioxidant activity and anti-melanogenic effect of Moju. Moju showed no toxicity to HEK293T or B16F10 cells. The antioxidant activity of Moju was confirmed by its ability to increase radical scavenging activity. Moju decreased tyrosinase activity in a concentration-dependent manner. At the cellular level, Moju reduced melanin synthesis and the expression of proteins involved in melanin synthesis at concentrations of 100, 250, and 500 μg/mL in B16F10 cells. In addition, Moju inhibited the phosphorylation of extracellular signal-regulated kinase (ERK).

Conclusions

These results provide evidence that Moju has antioxidant activity and anti-melanogenic effect that occur through regulation of the ERK pathway. Although further research is needed to elucidate the specific mechanism and functional components, the ability of Moju to inhibit melanin synthesis by altering tyrosinase activation suggest that it can be used as a functional whitening ingredient.

Tyrosinase Inhibitors Naturally Present in Plants and Synthetic Modifications of These Natural Products as Anti-Melanogenic Agents: A Review

Tyrosinase is a key enzyme target to design new chemical ligands against melanogenesis. In the current review, different chemical derivatives are explored which have been used as anti-melanogenic compounds. These are different chemical compounds naturally present in plants and semi-synthetic and synthetic compounds inspired by these natural products, such as kojic acid produced by several species of fungi; arbutin-a glycosylated hydroquinone extracted from the bearberry plant; vanillin-a phenolic aldehyde extracted from the vanilla bean, etc. After enzyme inhibition screening, various chemical compounds showed different therapeutic effects as tyrosinase inhibitors with different values of the inhibition constant and IC₅₀. We show how appropriately designed scaffolds inspired by the structures of natural compounds are used to develop novel synthetic inhibitors. We review the results of numerous studies, which could lead to the development of effective anti-tyrosinase agents with increased efficiency and safety in the near future, with many applications in the food, pharmaceutical and cosmetics industries.

Chemical Composition and Tyrosinase Inhibitory Activities of Fatty Acids Obtained from Heterotrophic Microalgae, S. limacinum and C. cohnii

Tyrosinase is the rate-limiting enzyme for melanin production in plant and mammalian cells. Upregulation of this enzyme results in hyperpigmentation disorders. In order to treat pigmentation problems, novel skin whitening compounds are extremely screened. It is found that fatty acids based on their saturation levels either increase or decrease tyrosinase enzyme activity. Thus, fatty acids and their compositions are promising candidates for the treatment of hyperpigmentation or hypopigmentation disorders. Microalgae are rich in both saturated and unsaturated fatty acids, as well. In this study, C. cohnii and S. limacinum fatty acids were evaluated as tyrosinase inhibitor candidates. Mushroom tyrosinase activity studies displayed that both extracts increase tyrosinase enzyme activity dose-dependently. On the other hand, S. limacinum at 200 µg ml^-1 concentration almost decreased half of tyrosinase enzyme activity in B16-F10 cells. Besides, it was 3 times more efficient for tyrosinase enzyme activity inhibition and 2 times more effective to decrease melanin synthesis compared to C. cohnii. Considering low toxicity to B16-F10 melanoma and healthy keratinocyte cells (HaCaT), S. limacinum fatty acids could be a suitable source for lipid-based tyrosinase inhibitory functional cosmetics products.

Screening and Structure-Activity Relationship for Selective and Potent Anti-Melanogenesis Agents Derived from Species of Mulberry (Genus Morus)

Tyrosinase is a multifunctional, copper-containing and rate-limiting oxidase that catalyses crucial steps in the melanogenesis pathway and is responsible for skin-pigmentation abnormalities in mammals. Numerous tyrosinase inhibitors derived from natural and synthetic sources have been identified as an objective for the development of anti-melanogenesis agents. However, due to side effects and lack of expected efficiency, only a small percentage of them are used for medical and cosmetic purposes. This critical review focuses on searching for novel active substances and recently discovered plant-derived anti-tyrosinase inhibitors from the Morus genus (Moraceae family). A detailed analysis of their structure-activity relationships is discussed. The information contained in this article is crucial for the cosmetics and medical industries, in order to show new directions for the effective search for natural anti-melanogenesis products (with satisfactory efficiency and safety) to treat and cure hyperpigmentation.

Quinoa husk peptides reduce melanin content via Akt signaling and apoptosis pathways

To improve the treatment of pigmentation disorders, looking for natural and safe inhibitors of melanin synthesis has become an area of research interest. The quinoa husk peptides reportedly elicit various biological activities (e.g., anti-cancer, antioxidant, anti-hypertensive, and so forth), but its effects on melanin inhibition remain unknown. In the current study, we purified quinoa husk peptides with 30 and 80% ethanol using a macroporous adsorption resin (DA201-C). Component screening revealed that the 80%-ethanol fraction (i.e., QHP fraction) contained numerous short peptides (84.41%) and hydrophobic amino acids (45.60%), while eliciting a superior tyrosinase [TYR]-inhibition rate, 2,2-diphenyl-1-picryhydrazil-scavenging rate, reducing activity, and chelating capacity compared to the 30% fraction and was thus applied in subsequent analyses. Differentially expressed genes in the QHP fraction were primarily enriched in the Akt-signaling pathways based on transcriptomics. Thus, we assessed the expression of related proteins and genes in A375 cells and rat skin cells following treatment with QHP.

Potential application of natural bioactive compounds as skin-whitening agents: A review

BACKGROUND

Melanin is a skin pigment that gives color to the skin, hair, and eyes. The accumulation or over production of melanin can lead to aesthetic problems as well as serious diseases associated with hyperpigmentation. Skin lightening is described as the procedure of using natural or synthetic products to lighten the skin tone or provide an even skin complexion by reducing the amount of melanin in the skin; therefore, skin lightening products help people to treat their skin problems. Ingredients such as hydroquinone, ascorbic acid, and retinoic acid were used as whitening agents to lighten the skin. However, they have many adverse effects on the skin and body health, such as skin irritation.

AIM

In this review, firstly, discuss on the directly/indirectly target melanogenesis-related signal pathways. Secondly, summarize potential natural bioactive ingredients with skin lightening properties from plants, marine organisms, microorganisms. Finally, the remaining problems and future challenges are also discussed.

METHODS

For relevant literature, a literature search was conducted using Google Scholar and Web of Science. Natural bioactive compounds, tyrosinase inhibitors, and other related topics were researched and evaluated.

RESULTS

Natural products isolated from plant and animal resources are potential active cosmetic candidates for lightening the skin tone and skin whitening and protection against UV irradiation. Natural bioactive ingredients as cosmetic whitening additives have attracted increasingly attention due to their safety and cost effectiveness, with few side effects.

CONCLUSION

Although natural active substances have been advocated for use in whitening cosmetics in recent years, there are still many challenges due to the fact that traditional inhibitors are used perennial in cosmetics which cannot be easily changed and the research on natural active substances is still in its infancy. In the future, by improving the extraction technique of natural extracts, it is achieved to give a qualitative and quantitative analysis of the active ingredients of the extracts, to determine the effect of the active components of action, and to find the substances that have the best possible whitening effect in natural organisms.

Application of traditional Chinese medicine as skin depigmentation agents

Traditional Chinese medicine (TCM) has been frequently used as skin lightning agents. However, the mechanism of action of their effect is unclear. The present study aims to evaluate anti-tyrosinase activity of 10 commonly used TCM on mushroom (ab), human (hs) and mouse melanoma B16F0 (mm) tyrosinase (TYR) respectively. The results showed that at 1.0 mg/mL, extracts from Rosa rugosa Thumb, Morus alba L. and Paeonia lactiflora Pall were active against both abTYR and hsTYR (>50% inhibition), extracts from Bletilla striata (Thunb.) Rchb. F., Centella asiatica (L.) Urb, Cynanchum atratum L., Rosa canina L., Rhus chinensis Mill. and Glycyrrhiza urolensis Fisch. Ex DC. inhibited either abTYR or hsTYR (>50%), while extract from Tribulus terrestris L. had no/minimal activity (<10% inhibition). When treated with melanoma B16F0 cells, M. alba also significantly reduced mmTYR activity (70% at 250 μg/mL) and melanin content (50% at 250 μg/mL). These findings demonstrated inhibitory effects of 9 TCM against TYR and hence support their application as skin lightning agents. Our results also showed discrepancies in TYR activity from different sources, suggesting a testing regime of combining abTYR, hsTYR and mmTYR when developing depigmentation agents for human application.

The melanin inhibitory effect of plants and phytochemicals: A systematic review

BACKGROUND

Melanin plays an important role in protecting human skin, while excessive synthesis of melanin can cause abnormal pigmentation and induce skin diseases. Long-term use of commercial whitening agents in managing skin melanin such as kojic acid and arbutin can lead to some negative effects such as dermatitis and liver cancer. Although past studies have researched the melanin inhibitory effect of plant extracts, the effective dose and mechanisms are not well summarized and discussed. This study aims to explore the melanin inhibitory property of phytochemicals and tries to answer the following research questions: (1) Which plant extracts and phytochemicals could inhibit melanin biosynthesis in the skin? what is the mechanism of action? (2) Have human trials been conducted to confirm their melanin inhibitory effect? (3) If not, which phytochemicals are recommended for further human trials? This article would provide information for future research to develop natural and safe skin whitening products.

METHODS

A preferred reporting items for systematic reviews and meta-analyses (PRISMA) systematic review method and OHAT risk-of-bias tool were applied to screen literature from 2000 to 2021 and 50 research articles met the selection criteria.

RESULTS

Flavonoids, phenolic acids, stilbenes and terpenes are main classes of phytochemicals responsible for the melanin inhibitory effects. The in vitro/in vivo melanin inhibitory effects of these plant extracts/phytochemicals are achieved via three main mechanisms: (1) the ethyl acetate extract of Oryza sativa Indica cv., and phytochemicals such as galangin and origanoside could manage melanin biosynthesis through competitive inhibition, non-competitive inhibition or mixed-type inhibition of tyrosinase; (2) phytochemicals such as ginsenoside F1, ginsenoside Rb1 and 4‑hydroxy-3-methoxycinnamaldehyde could inhibit melanogenesis through down-regulating microphthalmia-related transcription factor (MITF) gene expression via different signalling pathways; (3) the ethanolic extracts of Dimorphandra gardneriana, Dimorphandra gardneriana, Lippia microphylla and Schinus terebinthifolius have a good ultraviolet absorption ability and high sun protective factor (SPF) values, thereby inhibiting UV induced melanogenesis in the skin.

CONCLUSION

Although many plant extracts and phytochemicals have been found to inhibit melanin production, most of the results were only proved in cellular and/or animal models. Only the ethyl acetate extract of Oryza sativa Indica cv. panicle, and ginsenoside F1 were proved effective in human trials. Animal studies proved the effectiveness of galangin, origanoside, ginsenoside Rb1 and 4‑hydroxy-3-methoxycinnamaldehyde with effective dose below 3 mM, and therefore recommended for future human trial. In addition, cellular studies have demonstrated the effectiveness of oxyresveratrol, mulberroside A, kurarinol, kuraridinol, plumbagin, (6aR,11aR)-3,8-dihydroxy-9‑methoxy pterocarpan, ginsenoside Rh4, cardamonin, nobiletin, curcumin, β-mangostin and emodin in inhibiting melanin synthesis at low concentrations of 20 µM and proved the low SPF values of Dimorphandra gardneriana, Dimorphandra gardneriana, Lippia microphylla and Schinus terebinthifolius extracts, and therefore recommended for further animal and human trials.

Natural products in cosmetics

The global cosmetics market reached US$500 billion in 2017 and is expected to exceed US$800 billion by 2023, at around a 7% annual growth rate. The cosmetics industry is emerging as one of the fastest-growing industries of the past decade. Data shows that the Chinese cosmetics market was US$60 billion in 2021. It is expected to be the world's number one consumer cosmetics market by 2050, with a size of approximately US$450 billion. The influence of social media and the internet has raised awareness of the risks associated with the usage of many chemicals in cosmetics and the health benefits of natural products derived from plants and other natural resources. As a result, the cosmetic industry is now paying more attention to natural products. The present review focus on the possible applications of natural products from various biological sources in skin care cosmetics, including topical care products, fragrances, moisturizers, UV protective, and anti-wrinkle products. In addition, the mechanisms of targets for evaluation of active ingredients in cosmetics and the possible benefits of these bioactive compounds in rejuvenation and health, and their potential role in cosmetics are also discussed.

Chemical Composition of Impatiens textori Miq. Flower Absolute and Its Potential Wound Repair and Anti-Melanogenesis-Promoting Activities in Skin Cells

Impatiens textori Miq. (ITM; family Balsaminaceae) is a traditional medicinal plant with many biological activities, which include anti-allergic, anti-inflammatory, and anti-pruritic properties. However, it remains to be determined whether ITM affects biological activities in the skin. Thus, we investigated the effects of ITM flower absolute (ITMFAb) extract on the biological activities of skin, especially those related to skin wound repair and whitening. ITMFAb was extracted with hexane, and its composition was determined through GC/MS. The biological activities of ITMFAb on HaCaT keratinocytes and B16BL6 melanoma cells were analyzed using a water-soluble tetrazolium salt, 5-bromo-2'-deoxyuridine incorporation, a Boyden chamber, an ELISA, a sprouting assay, and by immunoblotting. These analyses were performed in a range of ITMFAb concentrations that did not inhibit the viability of the cells (HaCaT, ≤400 µg/mL; B16BL6, ≤200 µg/m). Forty components were identified in ITMFAb. ITMFAb stimulated proliferation, migration, sprout outgrowth, and type I and IV collagen synthesis and upregulated the activations of ERK1/2, JNK, p38 MAPK, and AKT in HaCaT cells. In addition, ITMFAb attenuated the serum-induced proliferation of B16BL6 cells. ITMFAb inhibited melanin synthesis, tyrosinase activity, and expressions of MITF and tyrosinase in α-MSH-exposed B16BL6 cells. These findings indicate that ITMFAb has beneficial effects on wound repairing and whitening-linked responses in the skin and suggest the potential use of ITMFAb as a natural material for the development of skin wound repair and whitening agents.

Guaiacol as a natural melanin biosynthesis inhibitor to control northern corn leaf blight

BACKGROUND

The natural 1,8-dihydroxynaphthalene (DHN) melanin biosynthesis inhibitors (MBIs) are one of the promising approaches to the integrated management of plant diseases but have received scarce attention until now. Herein, to explore the natural DHN MBIs used in the control of northern corn leaf blight (NCLB), a library of 53 essential oil compounds was used to screen the MBIs against Exserohilum turcicum, the causal pathogen of NCLB, using tricyclazole as a reference compound.

RESULTS

The results of morphological change in the colony, thermogravimetric analysis, ultraviolet-visible spectroscopy, and transmission electron microscopy confirmed that guaiacol could effectively inhibit the melanin production at 50 μg/mL under in vitro conditions. The in vitro bioassay results indicated that this inhibition effect was concentration-dependent and the minimum inhibition concentration of guaiacol was 50 μg/mL. The in vivo experimental results demonstrated that guaiacol significantly inhibited appressorium formation and penetration on corn leaf sheaths at the concentration of 500 μg/mL. The pot experiment results revealed that there were no differences between guaiacol (500 μg/mL) and tricyclazole (100 μg/mL) in control efficacy. The enzymatic assay suggested that guaiacol might exert the activity through inhibiting DHN polymerization to form melanins, which was distinct from tricyclazole.

CONCLUSIONS

Taken together, this study screened out guaiacol as a natural MBI from 53 essential oil compounds and verified its effectiveness in the control of NCLB at 500 μg/mL. Above all, this research opened an avenue for exploring natural DHN MBIs in the integrated management of plant diseases. © 2022 Society of Chemical Industry.

Biosynthesis of vanillic acid by Ochrobactrum anthropi and its applications

Vanillic acid has always been in high-demand in pharmaceutical, cosmetic, food, flavor, alcohol and polymer industries. Present study achieved highly pure synthesis of vanillic acid from vanillin using whole cells of Ochrobactrum anthropi strain T5_1. The complete biotransformation of vanillin (2 g/L) in to vanillic acid (2.2 g/L) with 95 % yield was achieved in single step in 7 h, whereas 5 g/L vanillin was converted to vanillic acid in 31 h. The vanillic acid thus produced was validated using LC-MS, GC-MS, FTIR and NMR. Further, vanillic acid was evaluated for in vitro anti-tyrosinase and cytotoxic properties on B16F1 skin cell line in dose dependent manner with IC₅₀ values of 15.84 mM and 9.24 mM respectively. The in silico Swiss target study predicted carbonic acid anhydrase IX and XII as key targets of vanillic acid inside the B16F1 skin cell line and revealed the possible mechanism underlying cell toxicity. Molecular docking indicated a strong linkage between vanillic acid and tyrosinase through four hydrogen and several hydrophobic bonds, with ΔG of -3.36 kJ/mol and Ki of 3.46 mM. The bioavailability of vanillic acid was confirmed by the Swiss ADME study with no violation of Lipinski's five rules.

Design and Synthesis of (Z)-5-(Substituted benzylidene)-3-cyclohexyl-2-thioxothiazolidin-4-one Analogues as Anti-Tyrosinase and Antioxidant Compounds: In Vitro and In Silico Insights

Many compounds containing the β-phenyl-α,β-unsaturated carbonyl (PUSC) scaffold, including cinnamamide derivatives, have been shown to inhibit tyrosinase potently in vitro and in vivo. Structural changes to cinnamamide derivatives were produced by adding a dithionate functional group to provide eight (Z)-5-(substituted benzylidene)-3-cyclohexyl-2-thioxothiazolidin-4-one analogs with high log p values for skin. These analogs were synthesized using a two-step reaction, and their stereochemistry was confirmed using the ³J_C4-Hβ values of C4 measured in proton-coupled ¹³C mode. Analogs 2 (IC₅₀ = 5.21 ± 0.86 µM) and 3 (IC₅₀ = 1.03 ± 0.14 µM) more potently inhibited mushroom tyrosinase than kojic acid (IC₅₀ = 25.26 ± 1.10 µM). Docking results showed 2 binds strongly to the active site of tyrosinase, while 3 binds strongly to an allosteric site. Kinetic studies using l-tyrosine as substrate indicated 2 and 3 competitively and non-competitively inhibit tyrosinase, respectively, which was supported by our docking results. In B16F10 cells, 3 significantly and concentration-dependently reduced α–MSH plus IBMX induced increases in cellular tyrosinase activity and melanin production and the similarity between these inhibitory patterns implied that the anti-melanogenic effect of 3 might be due to its tyrosinase-inhibitory ability. In addition, 2 and 3 exhibited strong antioxidant effects; for example, they reduced ROS and ONOO^– levels and exhibited radical scavenging activities, suggesting that these effects might underlie their anti-melanogenic effects. Furthermore, 3 suppressed the expressions of melanogenesis-associated proteins and genes in B16F10 cells. These results suggest (Z)-5-(substituted benzylidene)-3-cyclohexyl-2-thioxothiazolidin-4-one analogs offer a means of producing novel anti-melanogenesis agents.

Phytochemical, Antioxidant, Antihyaluronidase, Antityrosinase, and Antimicrobial Properties of Nicotiana tabacum L. Leaf Extracts

Nicotiana tabacum L. (tobacco) is an important and valuable crop for the cigarette industry. However, cigarette cessation has been encouraged worldwide. Therefore, this study aimed to investigate the potential of N. tabacum leaf extract use in other industries besides cigarette production, especially cosmeceutical industries, which are of interest for increasing the value and widening the applications of N. tabacum. The leaves of N. tabacum var. Virginia and Turkish were extracted by maceration using 95% v/v ethanol or petroleum ether. The extracts were evaluated for their phytochemical compositions, antioxidant capacity, and anti-aging, antimelanogenic, and antimicrobial activities. The phytochemical screening of the extracts revealed terpenoids, steroids, alkaloids, tannins, and carbohydrates in all of the N. tabacum leaf extracts. The total phenolic content was detected to be the highest in the ethanolic extract of Virginia tobacco leaf, which had the most significantly potent antioxidant and antihyaluronidase activity (P < 0.05). On the contrary, the extracts from the Turkish variety demonstrated the most powerful antimicrobial activity against Staphylococcus aureus. Thus, ethanolic extracts of N. tabacum var. Virginia are suggested as good natural anti-aging ingredients with potent antioxidant and antihyaluronidase effects, whereas the leaf of N. tabacum var. Turkish is suggested as a good source of natural antimicrobial components, particularly for S. aureus inhibition. In summary, in addition to the cigarette industry, N. tabacum leaf could be a source of pharmaceutical and cosmeceutical compounds, particularly natural anti-aging and antimicrobial ingredients.