Thymocid®, a Standardized Black Cumin (Nigella sativa) Seed Extract, Modulates Collagen Cross-Linking, Collagenase and Elastase Activities, and Melanogenesis in Murine B16F10 Melanoma Cells

Dermaceutical Utilization of Nigella sativa Seeds: Applications and Opportunities

Skin diseases have recently become a major concern among people of all ages due to their highly visible symptoms and persistent and difficult treatment, which significantly impact their quality of life. Nigella sativa seeds, also known as "black seeds" or "kalonji," are one of the most commonly used herbal medicines due to their wide range of biological and pharmacological activities. It contains a wide range of bioactive constituents found in both fixed and essential oils. It has been used for hundreds of years as an alternative ethnomedicine to treat a wide range of skin conditions. N. sativa's dermatological applications in skin diseases are attributed to its potent antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, and immunomodulatory properties, making it an intriguing skincare candidate. Several studies unravelled positive results associated with N. sativa on skin diseases. As N. sativa is the most studied medicinal plant, several preclinical and clinical studies have been conducted to establish its use in the treatment of various skin diseases. Thymoquinone has anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and antibacterial properties, which mainly contributed to the treatment of skin diseases. In this context, the present review explores all the available studies on the association of N. sativa and its effect on treating skin diseases in light of recent studies and patents supporting its therapeutic applications.

Synthesis, in silico modelling, and in vitro biological evaluation of substituted pyrazole derivatives as potential anti-skin cancer, anti-tyrosinase, and antioxidant agents

Twenty-five azole compounds (P1-P25) were synthesised using regioselective base-metal catalysed and microwave-assisted approaches, fully characterised by high-resolution mass spectrometry (HRMS), nuclear magnetic resonance (NMR), and infrared spectra (IR) analyses, and evaluated for anticancer, anti-tyrosinase, and anti-oxidant activities in silico and in vitro. P25 exhibited potent anticancer activity against cells of four skin cancer (SC) lines, with selectivity for melanoma (A375, SK-Mel-28) or non-melanoma (A431, SCC-12) SC cells over non-cancerous HaCaT-keratinocytes. Clonogenic, scratch-wound, and immunoblotting assay data were consistent with anti-proliferative results, expression profiling therewith implicating intrinsic and extrinsic apoptosis activation. In a mushroom tyrosinase inhibition assay, P14 was most potent among the compounds (half-maximal inhibitory concentration where 50% of cells are dead, IC50 15.9 μM), with activity greater than arbutin and kojic acid. Also, P6 exhibited noteworthy free radical-scavenging activity. Furthermore, in silico docking and absorption, distribution, metabolism, excretion, and toxicity (ADMET) simulations predicted prominent-phenotypic actives to engage diverse cancer/hyperpigmentation-related targets with relatively high affinities. Altogether, promising early-stage hits were identified - some with multiple activities - warranting further hit-to-lead optimisation chemistry with further biological evaluations, towards identifying new skin-cancer and skin-pigmentation renormalising agents.

Anti-Aging Potential of Plants of the Anak Dalam Tribe, Jambi, Indonesia

The process of skin aging is a physiological phenomenon that can not be avoided. According to global population data, the rate of aging increases by approximately 13% every year. The impact of skin aging has become a significant concern and challenge for developed countries. Consequently, there has been a search for potential new anti-aging agents. This review aims to provide an overview of the current research status of plants of the Anak Dalam Tribe (Indonesian: Suku Anak Dalam [SAD]; referred to as SAD henceforth) in Jambi Province, Indonesia, for the development of potential new anti-aging agents. One such discovery is a product derived from natural ingredients with the ability to prevent premature aging. These new anti-aging plants have been used for centuries by the Anak Dalam tribe, for treating skin diseases and maintaining skin health through traditional remedies. Recent research on herbal formulations used by the SAD community in Indonesia for skin beauty treatments, reported by Research on Medicinal Plants and Herbs or RISTOJA, indicates that 64 plant species are used for skin care. Among these plants, Toona sinensis, Curcuma heyneana, Curcuma zedoaria, Curcuma longa, and Kaempferia rotunda are the most commonly used medicinal plants with anti-aging properties. T. sinensis is a tree, while the others are herbs. T. sinensis shows the highest potential for development as an anti-aging agent, with its extracts, active fractions, and bioactive quercetin isolates known to possess strong anti-aging activities both in vitro and in vivo. Furthermore, C. heyneana, C. longa, C. zedoaria, and K. rotunda also show potential for further research, and three of them have demonstrated good potential for in vivo anti-aging activities. Only K. rotunda demonstrates relatively weaker antioxidant activity compared to T. sinensis, C. heyneana, C. longa, and C. zedoaria. Nevertheless, K. rotunda can still be developed to search for potential opportunities as agents with other activities, while T. sinensis, C. heyneana, C. longa, and C. zedoaria in the findings could be an opportunity to explore the potential of new anti-aging agents. In conclusion, of the five medicinal plants traditionally used by the SAD in Jambi, Indonesia, C. longa has received the most extensive research and shows potential for the development of anti-aging solutions. C. zedoaria, C. heyneana and K. rotunda show good potential for in vivo anti-aging activity. T. sinensis is the least-studied medicinal plant. Nevertheless, it has potential for development, as it is widely used by the SAD community for both traditional medicine and skin care.

Enzymatic Deglycation of Damaged Skin by Means of Combined Treatment of Fructosamine-3-Kinase and Fructosyl-Amino Acid Oxidase

The consensus in aging is that inflammation, cellular senescence, free radicals, and epigenetics are contributing factors. Skin glycation through advanced glycation end products (AGEs) has a crucial role in aging. Additionally, it has been suggested that their presence in scars leads to elasticity loss. This manuscript reports fructosamine-3-kinase (FN3K) and fructosyl-amino acid oxidase (FAOD) in counteracting skin glycation by AGEs. Skin specimens were obtained (n = 19) and incubated with glycolaldehyde (GA) for AGE induction. FN3K and FAOD were used as monotherapy or combination therapy. Negative and positive controls were treated with phosphate-buffered saline and aminoguanidine, respectively. Autofluorescence (AF) was used to measure deglycation. An excised hypertrophic scar tissue (HTS) (n = 1) was treated. Changes in chemical bonds and elasticity were evaluated using mid-infrared spectroscopy (MIR) and skin elongation, respectively. Specimens treated with FN3K and FAOD in monotherapy achieved an average decrease of 31% and 33% in AF values, respectively. When treatments were combined, a decrease of 43% was achieved. The positive control decreased by 28%, whilst the negative control showed no difference. Elongation testing of HTS showed a significant elasticity improvement after FN3K treatment. ATR-IR spectra demonstrated differences in chemical bounds pre- versus post-treatment. FN3K and FAOD can achieve deglycation and the effects are most optimal when combined in one treatment.

What Is Authentic Maple Water? A Twelve-Month Shelf-Life Study of the Chemical Composition of Maple Water and Its Biological Activities

Maple water (maple sap) products are produced from sap tapped directly from maple trees, but there is confusion and lack of industry consensus and consumer knowledge as to what constitutes 'authentic' maple water. With an immense potential for growth in the multi-billion dollar functional beverage market, the market promotion of maple water products hinges on establishing standards of identity (SI), which are currently lacking. Herein, we aim to provide publishable SI and compositional chemistry findings of maple water. The chemical composition (including polyphenols, sugars, amino acids, and organic acids) of a pasteurized maple water was monitored over a 12-month (at 0, 4, 8, and 12 months) shelf-life. Furthermore, LC-MS/MS and molecular networking-based methods were developed to identify the phytochemical profile of a maple water extract (MWX) and to compare it to a previously chemically characterized phenolic-enriched maple syrup extract (MSX). Both MSX and MWX have similar phytochemical profiles and chemical characteristics. In addition, MSX and MWX showed moderate antioxidant capacity (in free radical scavenging and anti-tyrosinase assays) and anti-inflammatory effects (in soluble epoxide hydrolase and cyclooxygenase-2 inhibition assays). Our findings provide critical information on the SI and stability (in chemical composition) of maple water, which will help define, authenticate, and distinguish it from other functional beverages, thereby positioning the maple industry for promotion and growth in this market sector.

Evaluating Potentials of Species Rich Taxonomic Groups in Cosmetics and Dermatology: Clustering and Dispersion of Skin Efficacy of Asteraceae and Ranunculales Plants on the Species Phylogenetic Tree

BACKGROUND

The medicinal properties of plants can be predicted by virtue of phylogenetic methods, which nevertheless have not been utilized to explore the regularity of skin-related bioactivities of ethnomedicinal plants. We aim to investigate the distribution of skin efficacy of Asteraceae and Ranunculales plants on the species-level Tree of Life.

METHODS

The clinical efficacy data of 551 ethnomedicinal species belonging to Ranunculales, as well as 579 ethnomedicinal species of Asteraceae, were systematically collected and collated; these therapeutic data fell into 15 categories, including skin disease/cosmeceutical. The large phylogenetic tree of all China angiosperm species was used to detect the phylogenetic signals of ethnomedicinal plants by calculating the D statistic, phylogenetic diversity (PD), net relatedness index (NRI), and nearest taxon index (NTI). Of all Chinese ethnomedicinal plants of Ranunculales and Asteraceae, 339 (61.5% of all ethnomedicinal species) and 382 (66.0% of all) are used for skin problems. In Ranunculales, a clustered structure was suggested by the NRI value for skin uses. In Asteraceae, the skin utility was not clustered; Artemisia, Aster, Cremanthodium, Ligularia, and Saussurea are the most used Asteraceae genera for skin issues.

RESULTS

The clustering structure was identified in Artemisia, and the skin efficacy in other genera was of overdispersion (NRI < 0). NTI values and D statistics largely agree with NRI. When compared with PD values of different therapeutic categories, the PD value of the skin category was relatively high in Cremanthodium, Ranunculales, Asteraceae, and Artemisia, suggesting the enormous efficacy space in the new taxa of these taxonomic groups.

CONCLUSION

By resolving the distribution of therapeutic effects of Ranunculales/Asteraceae taxa, the importance of phylogenetic methods in mining botanical resources with skin utilities is validated.

A critical review on the bio-mediated green synthesis and multiple applications of magnesium oxide nanoparticles

Nowadays, advancements in nanotechnology have efficiently solved many global problems, such as environmental pollution, climate change, and infectious diseases. Nano-scaled materials have played a central role in this evolution. Chemical synthesis of nanomaterials, however, required hazardous chemicals, unsafe, eco-unfriendly, and cost-ineffective, calling for green synthesis methods. Here, we review the green synthesis of MgO nanoparticles and their applications in biochemical, environmental remediation, catalysis, and energy production. Green MgO nanoparticles can be safely produced using biomolecules extracted from plants, fungus, bacteria, algae, and lichens. They exhibited fascinating and unique properties in morphology, surface area, particle size, and stabilization. Green MgO nanoparticles served as excellent antimicrobial agents, adsorbents, colorimetric sensors, and had enormous potential in biomedical therapies against cancers, oxidants, diseases, and the sensing detection of dopamine. In addition, green MgO nanoparticles are of great interests in plant pathogens, phytoremediation, plant cell and organ culture, and seed germination in the agricultural sector. This review also highlighted recent advances in using green MgO nanoparticles as nanocatalysts, nano-fertilizers, and nano-pesticides. Thanks to many emerging applications, green MgO nanoparticles can become a promising platform for future studies.

Preparation, identification, and molecular docking of novel elastase inhibitory peptide from walnut (Juglans regia L.) meal

This study aimed to isolate bioactive peptides with elastase inhibitory activity from walnut meal via ultrasonic enzymatic hydrolysis. The optimal hydrolysis conditions of walnut meal protein hydrolysates (WMPHs) were obtained by response surface methodology (RSM), while a molecular weight of<3 kDa fraction was analyzed by LC-MS/MS, and 556 peptides were identified. PyRx virtual screening and Autodock Vina molecular docking revealed that the pentapeptide Phe-Phe-Val-Pro-Phe (FFVPF) could interact with elastase primarily through hydrophobic interactions, hydrogen bonds, and π-sulfur bonds, with a binding energy of -5.22 kcal/mol. The verification results of inhibitory activity showed that FFVPF had better elastase inhibitory activity, with IC₅₀ values of 0.469 ± 0.01 mg/mL. Furthermore, FFVPF exhibited specific stability in the gastric environment. These findings suggest that the pentapeptide FFVPF from defatted walnut meal could serve as a potential source of elastase inhibitors in the food, medical, and cosmetics industries.

The Modulation of Melanogenesis in B16 Cells Upon Treatment with Plant Extracts and Isolated Plant Compounds

Plants are a rich source of secondary metabolites that exhibit numerous desired properties. The compounds may influence the biology of melanocytes, pigment cells that produce melanin, by modulating numerous signaling pathways, including cAMP/PKA, MAPKs and PI3K/AKT. Its downstream target is microphthalmia-associated transcription factor, responsible for the expression of the tyrosinase enzyme, which plays a major role in melanogenesis. Therefore, this literature review aims to provide insights related to melanogenesis modulation mechanisms of plant extracts and isolated plant compounds in B16 cells. Database searches were conducted using online-based library search instruments from 2012 to 2022, such as NCBI-PubMed and Google Scholar. Upregulation or downregulation of signaling pathways by phytochemicals can influence skin hypo- and hyperpigmentation by changing the level of melanin production, which may pose a significant cosmetic issue. Therefore, plant extracts or isolated plant compounds may be used in the therapy of pigmentation disorders.

Synthesis and Biological Evaluations of Betulinic Acid Derivatives With Inhibitory Activity on Hyaluronidase and Anti-Inflammatory Effects Against Hyaluronic Acid Fragment Induced Inflammation

We previously reported that the structural modifications of pentacyclic triterpenoids including oleanolic acid resulted in enhanced hyaluronidase inhibitory activity but whether this applies to other pentacyclic triterpenoids such as betulinic acid (BA) is unknown. Herein, we synthesized BA derivatives with an α,β-unsaturated ketene moiety and evaluated for their: 1) hyaluronidase inhibitory activity and, 2) anti-inflammatory effects against lipopolysaccharides (LPS) induced inflammation. Compared to BA, the BA derivatives exerted improved anti-hyaluronidase activity (26.3%-72.8% vs. 22.6%) and anti-inflammatory effects by reducing nitrite production in BV2 cells (3.9%-46.8% vs. 3.4%) and RAW264.7 cells (22.7%-49.2% vs. 20.4%). BA derivatives inhibited LPS-induced production of pro-inflammatory cytokines in THP-1 cells (15.2%-22.4%). BA derivatives also exerted promising anti-inflammatory effects against hyaluronic acid fragment induced nitrite production (8.6%-35.6%) in THP-1 cells. BA derivatives showed augmented anti-hyaluronidase and anti-inflammatory effects but further biological evaluations using in vivo models are warranted to confirm their efficacy.

Dietary polyphenol oleuropein and its metabolite hydroxytyrosol are moderate skin permeable elastase and collagenase inhibitors with synergistic cellular antioxidant effects in human skin fibroblasts

Oleuropein (OLE) and hydroxytyrosol (HT) are dietary polyphenols with skin beneficial effects but their effects on skin-ageing-related enzymes are not clear. Herein, we evaluated their inhibitory effects on elastase and collagenase. OLE and HT (62.5-1 000 μM) showed moderate anti-elastase and anti-collagenase effects (5.1-26.3%, 5.8-12.2% and 12.6-31.0%, 11.6-31.9% inhibition, respectively). Combinations of OLE and HT (1:1 ratio) exerted synergistic inhibitory effects on elastase, which were supported by their combination index (CI), kinetic assay and computational docking. Moreover, HT (100 μM) reduced hydrogen peroxide (H₂O₂)-induced cytotoxicity and reactive oxygen species (ROS) in human dermal fibroblast cells by 21.8 and 15.2%, respectively. In addition, combinations of OLE and HT (6.25/6.25-100/100 μM) exerted synergistic cytoprotective effects by reducing ROS levels by 7.6-37.3% with CIs of 0.17-0.44, respectively. The findings from this study support the cosmeceutical activities of OLE and HT but further research is warranted to evaluate their anti-skin-ageing effects using in vivo models.

Antioxidant and Anti-Melanogenic Activities of Heat-Treated Licorice (Wongam, Glycyrrhiza glabra × G. uralensis) Extract

Melanin is a brown or black pigment that protects skin from ultraviolet radiation and reactive oxygen species (ROS). However, overproduction of melanin is associated with lentigines, melasma, freckles and skin cancer. Licorice has shown antioxidant, anti-tumor, anti-platelet, anti-inflammatory and immunomodulatory activities and is used as a natural treatment for skin whitening. We aimed to confirm the potential of Wongam, a new cultivar of licorice developed by the Rural Development Administration (RDA), as a whitening agent in cosmetics. In addition, we verified the effect of heat treatment on the bioactivity of licorice by comparing antioxidant and anti-melanogenic activities of licorice extract before and after heating (130 °C). The heat-treated licorice extract (WH-130) showed higher radical-scavenging activities in the ABTS⁺ (2,2′-azino-bis-(3-ethylbenzothiazolin-6-sulfonic acid) diammonium salt) and DPPH (2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl) assays. In addition, WH-130 inhibited melanogenesis more effectively due to downregulation of tyrosinase in B16F10 melanoma cells than non-heated licorice extract. Moreover, heat treatment increased total phenolic content. In particular, isoliquiritigenin, an antioxidant and anti-melanogenic compound of licorice, was produced by heat treatment. In conclusion, WH-130, with increased levels of bioactive phenolics such as isoliquiritigenin, has potential for development into a novel skin whitening material with applications in cosmetics.

Synthesis and biological evaluations of oleanolic acid indole derivatives as hyaluronidase inhibitors with enhanced skin permeability

Oleanolic acid (OA) is a natural cosmeceutical compound with various skin beneficial activities including inhibitory effect on hyaluronidase but the anti-hyaluronidase activity and mechanisms of action of its synthetic analogues remain unclear. Herein, a series of OA derivatives were synthesised and evaluated for their inhibitory effects on hyaluronidase. Compared to OA, an induction of fluorinated (6c) and chlorinated (6g) indole moieties led to enhanced anti-hyaluronidase activity (IC₅₀ = 80.3 vs. 9.97 and 9.57 µg/mL, respectively). Furthermore, spectroscopic and computational studies revealed that 6c and 6g can bind to hyaluronidase protein and alter its secondary structure leading to reduced enzyme activity. In addition, OA indole derivatives showed feasible skin permeability in a slightly acidic environment (pH = 6.5) and 6c exerted skin protective effect by reducing cellular reactive oxygen species in human skin keratinocytes. Findings from the current study support that OA indole derivatives are potential cosmeceuticals with anti-hyaluronidase activity.

A review of Nigella sativa plant-based therapy in dermatology

Nigella sativa (N. sativa) is a widely used medicinal herb with a rich cultural and religious history in Unani, Ayurveda, Chinese, and Arabic medicine. N. sativa contains many natural bioactive agents including alkaloids, saponins, alpha-hederin, and thymoquinone that contribute to its broad range of benefits as a diuretic, bronchodilator, antihypertensive, antidiabetic, and analgesic. In addition, N. sativa possesses antimicrobial, anti-inflammatory, and antineoplastic effects, making it an interesting potential therapy for the treatment of dermatological conditions. This article reviews the current literature surrounding the pharmacological effects of N. sativa for the treatment of acne vulgaris, melanoma, vitiligo, atopic dermatitis, plaque psoriasis, and wound healing.

Glyoxalase System in the Progression of Skin Aging and Skin Malignancies

Dicarbonyl compounds, including methylglyoxal (MGO) and glyoxal (GO), are mainly formed as byproducts of glucose metabolism. The main glyoxalase system consists of glyoxalase I and II (Glo1 and Glo2) and is the main enzyme involved in the detoxification of dicarbonyl stress, which occurs as an accumulation of MGO or GO due to decreased activity or expression of Glo1. Dicarbonyl stress is a major cause of cellular and tissue dysfunction that causes various health issues, including diabetes, aging, and cancer. The skin is the largest organ in the body. In this review, we discuss the role of the glyoxalase system in the progression of skin aging, and more importantly, skin malignancies. We also discuss the future prospects of the glyoxalase system in other skin abnormalities such as psoriasis and vitiligo, including hyperpigmentation. Finally, in the present review, we suggest the role of glyoxalase in the progression of skin aging and glyoxalase system as a potential target for anticancer drug development for skin cancer.