Skin aging: In vivo microscopic assessment of epidermal and dermal changes by means of confocal microscopy

Methods for skin image analysis and their applications in dermatology and cosmetic research: a comprehensive review

INTRODUCTION

In recent years, several non-invasive imaging methods have been introduced to facilitate studies in dermatology and cosmetic research, almost completely replacing invasive methods such as biopsy. Imaging devices have proven to be useful tools in skin analysis and therapy monitoring. This review aimed to investigate the most recent studies in cosmetic dermatology the imaging technology and methods that are being used to assess skin characteristics and summarize its fundamentals, possible applications, advantages, and limitations, and to give a future perspective to the clinical trials.

EVIDENCE ACQUISITION

For that, a literature review was carried out in the main scientific database platforms and the studies associating skin image analysis with dermatology and cosmetic research were selected and discussed.

EVIDENCE SYNTHESIS

It was possible to infer that skin image analyses are not only practical and effective, but have also become increasingly essential for the skin sciences. The in vivo and real-time image analyses allow a more complete evaluation and the follow-up of the same region for different periods. It was also possible to observe that macroscopic, microscopic, and mesoscopic imaging methods are complementary, allowing different approaches in the same study.

CONCLUSIONS

These technologies are expected to evolve more and more quickly in the near future.

Layer-by-Layer Analysis of In Vitro Skin Models

In vitro human skin models are evolving into versatile platforms for the study of skin biology and disorders. These models have many potential applications in the fields of drug testing and safety assessment, as well as cosmetic and new treatment development. The development of in vitro skin models that accurately mimic native human skin can reduce reliance on animal models and also allow for more precise, clinically relevant testing. Recent advances in biofabrication techniques and biomaterials have led to the creation of increasingly complex, multilayered skin models that incorporate important functional components of skin, such as the skin barrier, mechanical properties, pigmentation, vasculature, hair follicles, glands, and subcutaneous layer. This improved ability to recapitulate the functional aspects of native skin enhances the ability to model the behavior and response of native human skin, as the complex interplay of cell-to-cell and cell-to-material interactions are incorporated. In this review, we summarize the recent developments in in vitro skin models, with a focus on their applications, limitations, and future directions.

Line-field confocal optical coherence tomography coupled with artificial intelligence algorithms to identify quantitative biomarkers of facial skin ageing

Quantitative biomarkers of facial skin ageing were studied from one hundred healthy Caucasian female volunteers, aged 20-70 years, using in vivo 3D Line-field Confocal Optical Coherence Tomography (LC-OCT) imaging coupled with Artificial Intelligence (AI)-based quantification algorithms. Layer metrics, i.e. stratum corneum thickness (SC), viable epidermal thickness and Dermal-Epidermal Junction (DEJ) undulation, as well as cellular metrics were measured for the temple, cheekbone and mandible. For all three investigated facial areas, minimal age-related variations were observed in the thickness of the SC and viable epidermis layers. A flatter and more homogeneous epidermis (decrease in the standard deviation of the number of layers means), a less dense cellular network with fewer cells per layer (decrease in cell surface density), and larger and more heterogeneous nuclei within each layer (increase in nuclei volume and their standard deviation) were found with significant variations with age. The higher atypia scores further reflected the heterogeneity of nuclei throughout the viable epidermis. The 3D visualisation of fine structures in the skin at the micrometric resolution and the 1200 µm × 500 µm field of view achieved with LC-OCT imaging enabled to compute relevant quantitative biomarkers for a better understanding of skin biology and the ageing process in vivo.

In vivo reflectance confocal microscopy can detect the invasive component of lentigo maligna melanoma: Prospective analysis and case-control study

BACKGROUND

Lentigo maligna (LM), a form of melanoma in situ, has no risk of causing metastasis unless dermal invasive melanoma (LMM) supervenes. Furthermore, the detection of invasion impacts prognosis and management.

OBJECTIVE

To assess the accuracy of RCM for the detection of invasion component on LM/LMM lesions.

METHODS

In the initial case-control study, the performance of one expert in detecting LMM at the time of initial RCM assessment of LM/LMM lesions was recorded prospectively (n = 229). The cases were assessed on RCM-histopathology correlation sessions and a panel with nine RCM features was proposed to identify LMM, which was subsequently tested in a subset of initial cohort (n = 93) in the matched case-control study by two blinded observers. Univariable and multivariable logistic regression models were performed to evaluate RCM features predictive of LMM. Reproducibility of assessment of the nine RCM features was also evaluated.

RESULTS

A total of 229 LM/LMM cases evaluated by histopathology were assessed blindly and prospectively by an expert confocalist. On histopathology, 210 were LM and 19 were LMM cases. Correct identification of an invasive component was achieved for 17 of 19 LMM cases (89%) and the absence of a dermal component was correctly diagnosed in 190 of 210 LM cases (90%). In the matched case-control (LMM n = 35, LM n = 58), epidermal and junctional disarray, large size of melanocytes and nests of melanocytes were independent predictors of LMM on multivariate analysis. The interobserver analysis demonstrated that these three features had a fair reproducibility between the two investigators (K = 0.4). The multivariable model including those three features showed a high predictive performance AUC = 74% (CI 95% 64-85%), with sensitivity of 63% (95% CI 52-78%) and specificity of 79% (CI 95% 74-88%), and likelihood ratio of 18 (p-value 0.0026).

CONCLUSION

Three RCM features were predictive for identifying invasive melanoma in the background of LM.

Quantitative morphometric analysis of intrinsic and extrinsic skin ageing in individuals with Fitzpatrick skin types II-III

Skin ageing is an intricate physiological process affected by intrinsic and extrinsic factors. There is a demand to understand how the skin changes with age and photoexposure in individuals with Fitzpatrick skin types I-III due to accelerated photoageing and the risk of cutaneous malignancies. To assess the structural impact of intrinsic and extrinsic ageing, we analysed 14 skin parameters from the photoprotected buttock and photoexposed dorsal forearm of young and ageing females with Fitzpatrick skin types II-III (n = 20) using histomorphic techniques. Whilst the minimum viable epidermis (Emin ) remained constant (Q > 0.05), the maximum viable epidermis (Emax ) was decreased by both age and photoexposure (Q ≤ 0.05), which suggests that differences in epidermal thickness are attributed to changes in the dermal-epidermal junction (DEJ). Changes in Emax were not affected by epidermal cell proliferation. For the first time, we investigated the basal keratinocyte morphology with age and photoexposure. Basal keratinocytes had an increased cell size, cellular height and a more columnar phenotype in photoexposed sites of young and ageing individuals (Q ≤ 0.05), however no significant differences were observed with age. Some of the most striking changes were observed in the DEJ, and a decrease in the interdigitation index was observed with both age and photoexposure (Q ≤ 0.001), accompanied by a decreased height of rête ridges and dermal papilla. Interestingly, young photoexposed skin was comparable to ageing skin across many parameters, and we hypothesise that this is due to accelerated photoageing. This study highlights the importance of skin care education and photoprotection from an early age.

Revealing the Meissner Corpuscles in Human Glabrous Skin Using In Vivo Non-Invasive Imaging Techniques

The presence of mechanoreceptors in glabrous skin allows humans to discriminate textures by touch. The amount and distribution of these receptors defines our tactile sensitivity and can be affected by diseases such as diabetes, HIV-related pathologies, and hereditary neuropathies. The quantification of mechanoreceptors as clinical markers by biopsy is an invasive method of diagnosis. We report the localization and quantification of Meissner corpuscles in glabrous skin using in vivo, non-invasive optical microscopy techniques. Our approach is supported by the discovery of epidermal protrusions which are co-localized with Meissner corpuscles. Index fingers, small fingers, and tenar palm regions of ten participants were imaged by optical coherence tomography (OCT) and laser scan microscopy (LSM) to determine the thickness of the stratum corneum and epidermis and to count the Meissner corpuscles. We discovered that regions containing Meissner corpuscles could be easily identified by LSM with an enhanced optical reflectance above the corpuscles, caused by a protrusion of the strongly reflecting epidermis into the stratum corneum with its weak reflectance. We suggest that this local morphology above Meissner corpuscles has a function in tactile perception.

The role of cytokines/chemokines in an aging skin immune microenvironment

Reversing or slowing down the skin aging process is one of the most intriguing areas of focus across the social and scientific communities around the world. While aging is considered a universal and inevitable natural process of physiological decline, the aging of the skin is the most apparent visual representation of an individual's health. Aging skin may be objectively defined by epidermal thinning; increased transepidermal water loss; decreased cutaneous barrier function; loss of elasticity, laxity, and textured appearance; and gradual deterioration of the epidermal immune environment. As the largest structure of the immune system and of the body as a whole, the skin is the most vulnerable barrier of defense against the environment. The skin reflects an individual's exposures, lifestyle habits, and overall health. From an immunological perspective, cytokines and chemokines act as a central character in the communicating of the immunity in skin aging. These cell signaling proteins serve as the intercellular communication link. This review aims to elucidate how cell-cell crosstalk through cytokines and chemokines, and the interplay between host cells, infiltrating immune cells, and exogenous factors contribute to the overall aging skin.

Morphologic and molecular biologic analyses of the skin rejuvenation effect of the fractional 1064-nm picosecond laser: An animal study

OBJECTIVES

Application of the picosecond laser in the field of dermatology has expanded from tattoo removal to skin rejuvenation on a clinical basis. Although various mechanisms of pigment removal have been elucidated, the molecular changes associated with skin rejuvenation have yet to be identified. The aim of this study was to explore the theoretical basis and to evaluate the efficacy of skin rejuvenation using a 1064-nm fractional picosecond laser in a mouse model.

METHODS

We conducted an in vivo study using a fractional picosecond laser on the skin of old and young female hairless mice and performed topographical, histological, micro-, and electron microscopic assessments.

RESULTS

The topography of the skin surface was enhanced and showed increased dermal thickness on histological examination. Electron microscopy revealed disarranged collagen bundles with microspaces and vascular leakage in the upper dermis. Levels of collagen synthesis markers and various inflammatory cytokines, such as procollagens, interleukin-1β, tumor necrosis factor-α, and heat shock proteins, were elevated in the laser-treated skin.

CONCLUSIONS

This study provides a possible mechanism for the skin rejuvenation effect of fractional picosecond laser that has been reported previously in clinical observations. Based on our findings, the fractional picosecond laser could be widely applied in clinical settings where dermal regeneration and promotion of skin rejuvenation is required.

Cosmetic Formulations with Melaleuca alternifolia Essential Oil for the Improvement of Photoaged Skin: A Double-Blind, Randomized, Placebo-Controlled Clinical Study

This aim of this study was to evaluate the penetration depth, antioxidant capacity and the clinical efficacy of Melaleuca alternifolia pure essential oil and in a nanoemulsion to prevent skin photoaging. For this, 2% of pure essential oil or 2% of this essential oil in a nanoemulsion were vehiculated in a formulation. The skin penetration was evaluated using confocal Raman microspectroscopy. The radical protection factor was evaluated using electron paramagnetic resonance spectroscopy. For a clinical study, 40 male participants, aged 18-28 years, were enrolled, being divided into three groups: vehicle formulation, M. alternifolia pure essential oil and M. alternifolia Nanoemulsion. All the participants also received a sunscreen SPF 50 to use during the day. Before and after 90 days of study, skin hydrolipidics and morphological characteristics were performed by skin imaging and biophysical techniques. The nanoemulsion presented a lower antioxidant capacity and a higher penetration through the stratum corneum, reaching the viable epidermis, improving the stratum granulosum morphology. The groups presented an increase in the papillary depth, improving in the dermis echogenicity and the collagen fibers. Melaleuca alternifolia essential provides the potential to improve photoaged skin, being the application of nanoemulsion able to reach deeper skin layers.

The CSIESA: A Novel Score for the Assessment of Intrinsic and Extrinsic Skin Aging Based on Reflectance Confocal Microscopy Imaging

Skin aging is an intricate physiological process governed by intrinsic and extrinsic factors. Increasing life expectancy has turned skin aging into a growing concern for the general population. Clinical examination of the skin does not fully describe the skin aging process. This study aims to evaluate the healthy skin of five different age groups in order to develop an easy-to-use confocal score for quantifying signs of skin aging and test the correlation between this new score and the already described clinical score, SCINEXA (score of intrinsic and extrinsic skin aging). Thirty-five subjects split into five age groups: <35; 36−45; 46−55; 56−65, and >65 years old were enrolled. Clinical signs were quantified using the SCINEXA score, and known confocal variables of skin aging were evaluated. Three different semi-quantitative scores were calculated: epidermal disarrangement score (EDS), epidermal hyperplasia score (EHS), and dermal score (DS). The EDS showed a stable trend up to the age of 65 and a dramatic increase in older subjects. EHS was characterized by an ascending trend from younger subjects to middle-aged ones. The DS was progressive with age, with a different proportion of distinct collagen types. The confocal CSIESA (confocal score for the assessment of intrinsic and extrinsic skin aging) score correlated well with the SCINEXA score. Reflectance confocal microscopy is a powerful, non-invasive technique for microscopically quantifying aging signs.

Predictors of Complications after Breast Reconstruction Surgery: A Systematic Review and Meta-analysis

Breast reconstruction (BR) is a unique surgical procedure that provides patients undergoing mastectomy with significant psychosocial and aesthetic benefits and has also become a crucial part of the treatment pathway for women with breast cancer. Due to methodological inadequacies and the absence of substantial risk factor analysis, no conclusion can be drawn about the correlation between risk variables and post-surgical complications in BR surgery. We aim to identify the potential risk factors associated with postoperative complications.

Methods

We queried MEDLINE and Cochrane CENTRAL from their inception to March 2022, for published randomized controlled trials and observational studies that assessed complications post-reconstruction procedure in breast cancer patients following mastectomy or evaluated at least one of the following outcomes of major or reoperative complications. The results from the studies were presented as odds ratios with 95% confidence intervals and were pooled using a random-effects model.

Results

Our pooled analysis demonstrated a significant correlation with BR postoperative complications and risk factors such as diabetes, hypertension, and obesity. Diabetes and the development of seroma were found to have a significant relationship. Risk variables such as age, radiotherapy, COPD, and smoking had no significant connection with 0-to-30-day readmission and 30-to-90-day readmission.

Conclusion

This meta-analysis shows that risk factors like age, smoking history, high blood pressure, and body mass index (BMI) have a big effect on complications after BR, and patients with risk factors have a high rate of developing infection.

Feasibility of Reflectance Confocal Microscopy Monitoring in Oily, Acne-Prone Facial Skin Treated with a Topical Combination of Alpha and Beta-Hydroxy Acids, Anti-Inflammatory Molecules, and Herculane Thermal Water: A Blinded, One-Month Study

Oily, acne-prone skin is a common skin type which may be monitored in vivo using reflectance confocal microscopy (RCM). The aim of the study was to assess the feasibility of RCM in evaluating the effectiveness of a topical combination of alpha- and beta-hydroxy acids, anti-inflammatory and antibacterial molecules, and Herculane thermal water on acne-prone skin. Thirty-five subjects with oily, acne-prone skin were prescribed topical combination products and were evaluated by clinical, Wood's lamp, and RCM imaging at baseline and after 28 days. At 28 days, the RCM-evaluated number of dilated infundibula, infundibula filled with keratotic material, and infundibula with thickened bright borders, as well as the density of the inflammatory infiltrate, were significantly decreased. Wood's light images at 28 days showed a significantly reduced number of C. acnes-colonized infundibula, and both the median area and the intensity of the red-orange fluorescence were decreased. The reduction in the clinical score was concurrent with the improvement in the RCM parameters, suggesting that this non-invasive imaging technique is appropriate for efficiency evaluations of topical acne treatments.

In vivo multiphoton multiparametric 3D quantification of human skin aging on forearm and face

Quantifying skin aging changes and characterizing its 3D structure and function in a non-invasive way is still a challenging area of research, constantly evolving with the development of imaging methods and image analysis tools. In vivo multiphoton imaging offers means to assess skin constituents in 3D, however prior skin aging studies mostly focused on 2D analyses of dermal fibers through their signals’ intensities or densities. In this work, we designed and implemented multiphoton multiparametric 3D quantification tools for in vivo human skin pigmentation and aging characterization. We first demonstrated that despite the limited field of view of the technic, investigation of 2 regions of interest (ROIs) per zone per volunteer is a good compromise in assessing 3D skin constituents in both epidermis and superficial dermis. We then characterized skin aging on different UV exposed areas—ventral and dorsal forearms, face. The three major facts of aging that are epidermal atrophy, the dermal–epidermal junction (DEJ) flattening and dermal elastosis can be non-invasively quantified and compared. Epidermal morphological changes occur late and were only objectified between extreme age groups. Melanin accumulation in suprabasal layers with age and chronic exposure on ventral and dorsal forearms is less known and appears earlier. Superficial dermal aging changes are mainly elastin density increase, with no obvious change in collagen density, reflected by SHGto2PEF ratio and SAAID index decrease and ImbrN index increase on all skin areas. Analysis of the z-dermal distribution of these parameters highlighted the 2nd 20 µm thickness normalized dermal sub-layer, that follows the DEJ shape, as exhibiting the highest aging differences. Moreover, the 3D ImbrN index allows refining the share of photoaging in global aging on face and the 3D SAAID index on forearm, which elastin or fibrillar collagens densities alone do not allow. Photoaging of the temple area evolves as a function of chronic exposure with a more pronounced increase in elastin density, also structurally modified from thin and straight elastic fibers in young volunteers to dense and compact pattern in older ones. More generally, multiphoton multiparametric 3D skin quantification offers rich spatial information of interest in assessing normal human skin condition and its pathological, external environment or product induced changes.

Prevention of Ageing-The Role of Micro-Needling in Neck and Cleavage Rejuvenation: A Narrative Review

Although interest in aesthetic medicine is growing, the focus is often placed outside of the facial area, namely on the skin of the neck and cleavage. Exposure to the sun and muscle movements cause the prompt development of wrinkles that may appear there, even before they show up on the face. We conducted a literature review devoted to micro-needling to identify its role in anti-ageing treatments and to determine the gaps in current knowledge. A search in Medline identified 52 publications for neck and face micro-needling. Micro-needling is an anti-ageing procedure that involves making micro-punctures in the skin to induce skin remodelling by stimulating the fibroblasts responsible for collagen and elastin production. It can be applied to the skin of the face, neck, and cleavage. Two to four weeks should be allowed between repeated procedures to achieve an optimal effect. The increase in collagen and elastin in the skin can reach 400% after 6 months, with an increase in the thickness of the stratum granulosum occurring for up to 1 year. In conclusion, micro-needling can be considered an effective and safe aesthetic medicine procedure which is conducted at low costs due to its low invasiveness, low number of adverse reactions, and short recovery time. Little evidence identified in the literature suggests that this procedure requires further research.

Melanoma Detection by AFM Indentation of Histological Specimens

Melanoma is visible unlike other types of cancer, but it is still challenging to diagnose correctly because of the difficulty in distinguishing between benign nevus and melanoma. We conducted a robust investigation of melanoma, identifying considerable differences in local elastic properties between nevus and melanoma tissues by using atomic force microscopy (AFM) indentation of histological specimens. Specifically, the histograms of the elastic modulus of melanoma displayed multimodal Gaussian distributions, exhibiting heterogeneous mechanical properties, in contrast with the unimodal distributions of elastic modulus in the benign nevus. We identified this notable signature was consistent regardless of blotch incidence by sex, age, anatomical site (e.g., thigh, calf, arm, eyelid, and cheek), or cancer stage (I, IV, and V). In addition, we found that the non-linearity of the force-distance curves for melanoma is increased compared to benign nevus. We believe that AFM indentation of histological specimens may technically complement conventional histopathological analysis for earlier and more precise melanoma detection.

Automating reflectance confocal microscopy image analysis for dermatological research: a review

SIGNIFICANCE

Reflectance confocal microscopy (RCM) is a noninvasive, in vivo technology that offers near histopathological resolution at the cellular level. It is useful in the study of phenomena for which obtaining a biopsy is impractical or would cause unnecessary tissue damage and trauma to the patient.

AIM

This review covers the use of RCM in the study of skin and the use of machine learning to automate information extraction. It has two goals: (1) an overview of information provided by RCM on skin structure and how it changes over time in response to stimuli and in disease and (2) an overview of machine learning approaches developed to automate the extraction of key morphological features from RCM images.

APPROACH

A PubMed search was conducted with additional literature obtained from references lists.

RESULTS

The application of RCM as an in vivo tool in dermatological research and the biologically relevant information derived from it are presented. Algorithms for image classification to epidermal layers, delineation of the dermal-epidermal junction, classification of skin lesions, and demarcation of individual cells within an image, all important factors in the makeup of the skin barrier, were reviewed. Application of image analysis methods in RCM is hindered by low image quality due to noise and/or poor contrast. Use of supervised machine learning is limited by time-consuming manual labeling of RCM images.

CONCLUSIONS

RCM has great potential in the study of skin structures. The use of artificial intelligence could enable an easier, more reproducible, precise, and rigorous study of RCM images for the understanding of skin structures, skin barrier, and skin inflammation and lesions. Although several attempts have been made, further work is still needed to provide a definite gold standard and overcome issues related to image quality, limited labeled datasets, and lack of phenotype variability in available databases.

Human skin through the ages

As the largest organ of the human body the skin offers a protective role, providing a tough but pliable covering that provides the major barrier between the internal organs and the environment. It actively regulates water loss and is both oxygen and carbon dioxide permeable, and influences temperature regulation and immunological functions through its sensory properties. Both intrinsic and enhanced environmental factors contribute to the progressive deterioration of the skin with increasing age. Cutaneous problems are therefore an unavoidable and inevitable consequence of aging skin, which can prove to be both cosmetically unacceptable to those who succumb to these problems, as well as even life threatening if skin breakdown becomes chronic as is case with leg ulceration. This in turn has major implications for long-term impact on those looking after them (e.g., family, carers, etc.) and a huge burden on the health care system.

Assessing changes in facial skin quality using noninvasive in vivo clinical skin imaging techniques after use of a topical retinoid product in subjects with moderate-to-severe photodamage

BACKGROUND

Studies utilizing reflectance confocal microscopy (RCM) and dynamic optical coherence tomography (D-OCT) to assess cosmetic skin changes are limited.

METHODS

A 12-week, open-label study was conducted using RCM and D-OCT to evaluate the effects of a topical cosmetic retinol (RET05) on subjects with facial photodamage. Study endpoints included investigator grading, standardized (VISIA-CR) and 3D photography (Antera 3D), independent RCM (VivaScope1500) and D-OCT (VivoSight) image analysis, validated FACE-Q scales, and subject questionnaires.

RESULTS

Twenty-three subjects, 45- to 68-year old, with Fitzpatrick skin types II-IV completed the study. After 12 weeks of repeated application, RET05 demonstrated significant corresponding cosmetic improvements for overall photodamage, skin tone unevenness, tactile roughness, fine lines/wrinkles (forehead, periocular, and perioral), and coarse lines/wrinkles (forehead, periocular, and cheeks), and Allergan Skin Roughness Scale. FACE-Q assessments also demonstrated significant improvements from baseline at week 12. RCM analysis showed decreases in all epidermis, less compact stratum corneum (SC), more non-compact SC, decreases in coarse/huddled dermal fibers, and increases in fibrillar dermal fibers, as compared to baseline. D-OCT analysis showed significant decreases in epidermal thickness (ET), reduction of moderate/many collagen fragments and collagen bundles, and significant increases in the stroma attenuation coefficient and collagen density. Moreover, the dermal-epidermal junction was more pronounced, and vascular abundance at 300 and 500 μm depth increased. Independent evaluation of RCM and D-OCT images showed similar decreases in ET and improvements in dermal fibers.

CONCLUSION

This study was the first to utilize RCM and D-OCT to evaluate the cosmetic effects of a topical retinoid and further substantiate improvements in skin quality.

Histological determination of skin thickness in farmed Australian Crocodylus porosus

This descriptive study examined the variation in ventral Crocodylus porosus (saltwater crocodile) belly skin. The study is the first to determine both intra and inter variation of C. porosus skin, epidermis and dermis thickness across the ventral belly region. Standardised ventral scales from across the belly region of a Hatchling (< 12months), Yearling (1-2 years) and Grow Out (>2 years) animals were examined using histological measurements for the stratum (s.) corneum, a combined measure for the remainder of the epidermis; the s. granulosum, s. spinosum and s. basale, and the dermis. This study determined that there was a thinning across all layers of the belly skin, from the head to the cloaca, and a decrease in thickness scales in lateral scales compared to midline scales. Variation within a scale was found predominately in the s. corneum and can be related to the change in keratin type from beta- to alpha- in the hinge (inter-scalar) region and the integumentary sensory organs. Future studies should utilise a larger sample size and consider less invasive imaging techniques.

New insights from non-invasive imaging: from prospection of skin photodamages to training with mobile application

The incidence of non‐melanoma skin cancer is on the rise and melanoma is among the most common cancers in the United States. Establishing an early diagnosis is essential for improving the prognosis of patients with skin cancer. High‐resolution non‐invasive imaging techniques may represent key tools for helping to identify and monitor early signs of skin cancer in seemingly healthy skin. Cumulative lifetime sun exposure leads to photoaging and photocarcinogenenis and the reaction of the skin to this solar‐induced damage is balanced between the DNA repair and photoprotection defence mechanisms of melanocytes and keratinocytes. In the first part of this article we provide an overview of these defence mechanisms and of the photoaging process, and discuss how non‐invasive imaging can be used to evaluate these changes. We then propose a model in which skin aging manifestations can be classified according to subject‐specific sun‐damage reaction profiles observed by reflectance confocal microscopy (RCM) and optical coherence tomography (OCT). These photoaging profiles include an atrophic phenotype characterized by actinic keratosis, and a hypertrophic phenotype characterized by hyperplastic pigmented skin. According to our model, these phenotypes may be predictive of predispositions to different types of skin cancer: squamous cell carcinoma for the atrophic phenotype and lentigo maligna and freckles for the hypertrophic phenotype. In addition to RCM and OCT, dermoscopy is another non‐invasive technique that has improved the diagnosis of skin cancer. In the second part of this article, we describe how the YouDermoscopy™ application can improve skills and thus enhance the dermoscopic recognition of sun‐induced skin tumours, and then show how this training tool enables its users to collaborate with dermatologists worldwide to obtain second opinions for the diagnosis of ambiguous lesions. Altogether, RCM, OCT and dermoscopy are valuable tools that can contribute significantly to improving the early diagnosis of precancerous and cancerous lesions.

The impacts of sun protection and skin care habits in the biophysical and morphological properties of young men skin

BACKGROUND

Previous studies have demonstrated that UVB radiation may cause changes in the epidermal permeability barrier and in the stratum corneum hydration. It is also well known that sun exposure causes erythema, skin cancer and other physiologic alterations. Furthermore, because of the cultural barrier, men usually apply less sunscreen.

AIMS

The objective of this study was to evaluate the cosmetic use and sun protection habits of young men, correlating their lifestyle with the biophysical and morphological skin characteristics, as well as to study how skin unprotected sun exposure can affect these features even in young people.

PATIENTS/METHODS

60 participants between 18 and 28 years old were divided into two groups: with photoprotection habits (PP habits) and without photoprotection habits (No PP habits). They were questioned about their sunscreen and cosmetic products use. The skin parameters were evaluated using biophysical and skin imaging techniques.

RESULTS AND CONCLUSION

60% of the participants did not apply sunscreen often and 80% did not consume other skin care products. No PP habits group presented an increase in the transepidermal water loss - TEWL and sebum level, as well as a reduction in the stratum corneum water content and dermis echogenicity. The skin characteristics evaluated in this study were correlated with the sun protection habits and skin care behavior showing that men face some sociocultural barrier to start the use of cosmetic products. Thus, it is important to consider this information for the dermatological clinical and development of cosmetic products for men's skin.

Holistic approach to visualize and quantify collagen organization at macro, micro, and nano‐scale

BACKGROUND

There is scarcity of imaging and image processing techniques for accurate discrimination and quantitation of the dermal extracellular matrix (ECM), primarily collagen. The aim of this study was to develop and demonstrate a holistic imaging and image processing approach to visualize and quantify collagen remodeling at the macro-, micro- and nano-scale using histochemical imaging, Reflectance Confocal Microscopy (RCM), and Atomic Force Microscopy (AFM), respectively.

MATERIAL AND METHODS

For proof-of-concept, a commercial anti-aging product known to induce collagen neo-synthesis and re-organization was tested ex vivo on human skin biopsies from two aged females.

RESULTS

Relative to untreated skin, collagen fibers (RCM) and fibrils (AFM) were longer and aligned after treatment. The content of collagen and elastin (histochemical imaging and ELISA) statistically improved after treatment.

CONCLUSION

Based on our findings, we can conclude: (1) AFM, RCM, and histochemical imaging can accurately discriminate collagen from other ECM components in the skin and (2) the image processing methods can enable quantitation and hence capture small improvements in collagen remodeling after treatment (commercial cosmetic product with collagen organizer technology as proof-of-concept). The reported holistic imaging approach has direct clinical implications for scientists and dermatologists to make quick, real-time, and accurate decisions in skin research and diagnostics.

In vivo evaluation of topical ascorbic acid application on skin aging by 50MHz ultrasound

Ascorbic acid (AA) is a powerful antioxidant capable of acting significantly both in the prevention and treatment of the skin aging process. One way to assess the in vivo efficacy of anti-aging treatments is by using the high-frequency ultrasound (HFUS) skin image analysis technique, a non-invasive approach that allows for a new level of evaluating the effectiveness of dermatological and cosmetic products. The aim of the present study was to assess the performance of a topical emulsion of liquid crystalline structures containing AA using the 50 MHz HFUS skin image analysis method. Twenty-five healthy female participants between 35 and 60 years old were included, all of whom randomly applied a placebo formulation and an AA-containing formulation to each forearm, once a day, for 30 days. HFUS measurements were performed before using the products (T0), two hours later (T2h), and after 30 days of use (T30d). The analyzed parameters included total skin, dermal, and epidermal echogenicity; variation and mean thickness of total skin, the epidermis and dermis; and surface roughness. Statistical analyses were performed using the Friedman test, followed by Dunn's test for comparisons of multiple means (α=0.05). A significant increase in total skin and dermal echogenicity was observed after topical AA application. Our findings suggest that collagen synthesis significantly increased after topical therapy with AA, which was responsible for the increment in dermal echogenicity. This study showed, through the HFUS technique, that the topical use of AA promoted dermal redensification after 30 days of application.

Safety and efficacy of combined essential oils for the skin barrier properties: In vitro, ex vivo and clinical studies

OBJECTIVE

To evaluate the safety and the synergistic effects of tea tree, lavender, eucalyptus and tangerine essential oils in combination on the skin using in vitro, ex vivo and clinical studies.

METHODS

The phototoxicity was predicted using 3T3 neutral red uptake phototoxicity test (OECD TG 432). Skin penetration was evaluated by confocal Raman microspectroscopy using direct application of essential oils to pig ears. For the clinical studies, 40 participants were enrolled and randomized in three groups: (1) lavender, eucalyptus and tangerine, (2) the same essential oils plus melaleuca and (3) placebo group. The skin was evaluated by noninvasive techniques before and after a 90-day period of topical use.

RESULTS

The essential oils were non-phototoxic, but the tangerine oil showed dose-dependent cytotoxicity (IC50: 33.1 µg/ml), presenting 35% of penetration in the viable epidermis. On the contrary, 17.7 µg/ml in combination was applied per day in the clinical study and the penetration rate for the combinations (10%, 1.77 µg/ml achieving the viable epidermis) guaranteed the safety, since in the clinical study, the application of the four essential oils improved skin barrier and morphologic skin characteristics, as well as increased skin hydration and decreased sebum levels, with no unwanted effects reported.

CONCLUSIONS

All essential oils studied were considered non-cytotoxic or non-phototoxic separately except tangerine, which present a dose-dependent cytotoxicity. Finally, the essential oils in combination in an appropriate amount were safe and effective in the improvement of the hydrolipidic balance and morphological properties of the skin.

Line-field confocal optical coherence tomography as a tool for three-dimensional in vivo quantification of healthy epidermis: A pilot study

Epidermal three-dimensional (3D) topography/quantification has not been completely characterized yet. The recently developed line-field confocal optical coherence tomography (LC-OCT) provides real-time, high-resolution, in-vivo 3D imaging of the skin. This pilot study aimed at quantifying epidermal metrics (epidermal thicknesses, dermal-epidermal junction [DEJ] undulation and keratinocyte number/shape/size) using 3D LC-OCT. For each study participant (8 female, skin-type-II, younger/older volunteers), seven body sites were imaged with LC-OCT. Epidermal metrics were calculated by segmentations and measurements assisted by artificial intelligence (AI) when appropriate. Thicknesses of epidermis/SC, DEJ undulation and keratinocyte nuclei volume varied across body sites. Evidence of keratinocyte maturation was observed in vivo: keratinocyte nuclei being small/spherical near the DEJ and flatter/elliptical near the skin surface. Skin microanatomy can be quantified by combining LC-OCT and AI. This technology could be highly relevant to understand aging processes and conditions linked to epidermal disorders. Future clinical/research applications are to be expected in this scenario.

Puzzle Facelift: A non-surgical, whole treatment for facial modelling and rejuvenation

The assessment of correct anatomy of face and the evaluation of the dynamic interplay between anatomy and function, in order to get an overall improvement, is a leading topic in aesthetic surgery and has increased its impact in the recent years. A non-surgical impact technique reduces both post-treatment discomfort and the overall cost. Obtaining the simultaneous correction in forehead, nose, lips and chin means obtaining an overall improvement in face view. Likewise, the high predictability of the procedure and the absence of alloplastic implant, bone re-absorption and scars have to be considered in non-surgical aesthetic medicine. In conclusion, a single-session of profile correction using HA filler should be proposed to patient, every time the aesthetic practitioner sees a coexistence of forehead, nose lips and chin defects.

Evaluation of facial skin age based on biophysical properties in vivo

OBJECTIVE

The evaluation of skin age, reflecting overall facial characteristics, has not been established. Previous studies focused on visual assessment or individual-specific feature such as wrinkles or skin color. We studied the evaluation model of skin age index (SAI) including the overall aging features including wrinkles, skin color, pigmentation, elasticity, and hydration.

METHODS

Total 300 healthy women aged between 20 and 69 years included in this study. Pearson correlation analysis performed to identify the key factors among the biophysical properties with aging and developed the prediction model of SAI. Statistical regression analysis and machine learning technique applied to build the prediction model using the coefficient of determination (R² ) and root mean square error (RMSE). Validation study of the SAI model performed on 24 women for 6 weeks application with anti-aging product.

RESULTS

Prediction model of SAI consisted of skin elasticity, wrinkles, skin color (brightness, Pigmented spot, and Uv spot), and hydration, which are major features for aging. The cforest model to assess a SAI using machine learning identified the highest R² and lowest RMSE compared to other models, such as svmRadial, gaussprRadial, blackboost, rpart, and statistical regression formula. The cforest prediction model confirmed a significant decrease of predicted SAI after 6 weeks of application of anti-aging product.

CONCLUSION

We developed a prediction model to evaluate a SAI using machine learning, and led to accurate predicted age for overall clinical aging. This model can a good standard index for evaluating facial skin aging and anti-aging products.

[Ex vivo confocal laser scanning microscopy for melanocytic lesions and autoimmune diseases]

BACKGROUND

Ex vivo confocal laser scanning microscopy (CLSM) enables bedside histology and offers the surgeon a direct intraoperative tissue examination.

OBJECTIVES

To determine whether this innovative, ultra-fast diagnostic tool can be expanded beyond nonmelanoma skin cancer, particularly basal cell carcinoma, to other indications including melanocytic lesions and autoimmune diseases.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

Review of literature and summary of the current knowledge and experience of the use of ex vivo CLSM in melanocytic lesions and in autoimmune diseases.

RESULTS

Up to date experience of the use of ex vivo CLSM in melanocytic lesions and in autoimmune diseases is limited but promising. Current knowledge on melanocytic lesions in ex vivo CLSM and their examples together with classic ex vivo CLSM features are presented. Previous results on the use of ex vivo CLSM in autoimmune dermatoses are presented, and future application possibilities of ex vivo CLSM are discussed.

CONCLUSIONS

The method is particularly suitable for the rapid examination of basal cell carcinomas during Mohs surgery but could also be used in the future for the intraoperative examination of melanocytic and autoimmune skin lesions.

Nanoparticle platforms for dermal antiaging technologies: Insights in cellular and molecular mechanisms

Aging is a continuous process defined by a progressive functional decline in physiological parameters. Skin, being one of the most vulnerable organs, shows early signs of aging which are predominantly affected by intrinsic factors like hormone, gender, mood, enzymes, and genetic predisposition, and extrinsic factors like exposure to radiation, air pollution, and heat. Visible morphological and anatomical changes associated with skin aging occur due to underlying physiological aberrations governed by numerous complex interactions at cellular and subcellular levels. Nanoparticles are perceived as a powerful tool in the cosmeceutical industry both for augmenting the efficacy of existing agents and as a novel standalone therapy. Both organic and inorganic nanoparticles have been extensively investigated in antiaging applications. The use of nanoparticles helps to enhance the activity of antiaging molecules by selectively targeting cellular and molecular pathways. On the other hand, the nanoparticle platforms also gained increasing popularity as the skin protectant against extrinsic factors such as UV radiation and pollutants. This review comprehensively discusses skin aging and its mechanism by highlighting the impact on cellular, subcellular, and epigenetic elements. Importantly, the review elaborates on the examples of organic and inorganic nanoparticle-based formulations developed for antiaging application and provides mechanistic insights on how they modulate the mechanisms of skin aging. The clinical progress of nanoparticle antiaging technologies and factors that impact clinical translation are also explored. This article is categorized under: Nanotechnology Approaches to Biology > Nanoscale Systems in Biology Therapeutic Approaches and Drug Discovery > Emerging Technologies.

Oral Supplementation with Hydrolyzed Fish Cartilage Improves the Morphological and Structural Characteristics of the Skin: A Double-Blind, Placebo-Controlled Clinical Study

Collagen and its peptides are natural ingredients used in food supplements and nutricosmetics with the claim of providing benefits for skin health and beauty. In this context, the aim of the present study was to evaluate the clinical efficacy of oral supplementation with hydrolyzed fish cartilage for the improvement of chronological and photoaging-induced skin changes. A total of 46 healthy females aged 45 to 59 years were enrolled and divided into two groups: G1-placebo and G2-oral treatment with hydrolyzed fish cartilage. Measurements of skin wrinkles, dermis echogenicity and thickness, and morphological and structural characteristics of the skin were performed in the nasolabial region of the face before and after a 90-day period of treatment using high-resolution imaging, ultrasound, and reflectance confocal microscopy image analyses. A significant reduction in wrinkles and an increase of dermis echogenicity were observed after a 90-day period of treatment with hydrolyzed fish cartilage compared to the placebo and baseline values. In addition, reflectance confocal microscopy (RCM) image analysis showed improved collagen morphology and reduced elastosis after treatment with hydrolyzed fish cartilage. The present study showed the clinical benefits for the skin obtained with oral supplementation with a low dose of collagen peptides from hydrolyzed fish cartilage.

Methods of Non-Invasive In Vivo Optical Diagnostics in the Assessment of Structural Changes in the Skin Induced by Ultraviolet Exposure in an Experimental Model

Background: This paper demonstrates the use of optical diagnostic methods to assess the dynamic skin changes observed in acute and chronic exposure to ultraviolet (UV) radiation in vivo. Methods: Firstly, in order to initiate photoaging (chronic UV exposure), animals (n = 40) were divided into two groups: chronic UV exposure (n = 30), and control (n = 10; without irradiation). Photoaging in animals was induced by chronic repeated exposure to UVA radiation three times per week, for 12 weeks continuously, while the UV dose increased stepwise over the course of the experiment (55 minimal erythema doses (MED) in total). Laser fluorescence spectroscopy (LFS), optical tissue oximetry (OTO), laser Doppler flowmetry (LDF), and optical coherence tomography (OCT) of the shaved dorsum skin were performed regularly, once per week until the conclusion of the study. At 0, 5, and 12 weeks of the experiment, histological examination of animal tissues using hematoxylin/eosin and Masson’s trichrome staining was performed. At the second stage, erythema was induced in mice (n = 15) by acute UV exposure at high doses. The colorimetric assay of the image from a digital RGB camera was used to evaluate the erythema index. Results: The tissue content index η_collagen of collagen was appropriate for the characterization of skin photoaging. Significant differences (p < 0.05) in η_collagen were found between the control and photoaging groups from the 5th to the 9th week of the experiment. In addition, the rate of collagen degradation in the control group was about half that of the photoaging group. This marker allows the differentiation of photo- and chronoaging. OCT revealed the main optical layers of the skin in compliance with the histological pattern. The analysis of the RGB camera images provided visualization of the acute skin reaction to UV radiation. Conclusions: This study demonstrates the applicability of optical methods for the quantitative assessment of acute and chronic skin effects of UV exposure in vivo.

Towards data-driven quantification of skin ageing using reflectance confocal microscopy

INTRODUCTION

Evaluation of skin ageing is a non-standardized, subjective process, with typical measures relying coarse, qualitatively defined features. Reflectance confocal microscopy depth stacks contain indicators of both chrono-ageing and photo-ageing. We hypothesize that an ageing scale could be constructed using machine learning and image analysis, creating a data-driven quantification of skin ageing without human assessment.

METHODS

En-face sections of reflectance confocal microscopy depth stacks from the dorsal and volar forearm of 74 participants (36/18/20 training/testing/validation) were represented using a histogram of visual features learned using unsupervised clustering of small image patches. A logistic regression classifier was trained on these histograms to differentiate between stacks from 20- to 30-year-old and 50- to 70-year-old volunteers. The probabilistic output of the logistic regression was used as the fine-grained ageing score for that stack in the testing set ranging from 0 to 1. Evaluation was performed in two ways: on the test set, the AUC was collected for the binary classification problem as well as by statistical comparison of the scores for age and body site groups. Final validation was performed by assessing the accuracy of the ageing score measurement on 20 depth stacks not used for training or evaluating the classifier.

RESULTS

The classifier effectively differentiated stacks from age groups with a test set AUC of 0.908. Mean scores were significantly different when comparing age groups (mean 0.70 vs. 0.44; t = -6.62, p = 0.0000) and also when comparing stacks from dorsal and volar body sites (mean 0.64 vs. 0.53; t = 3.12, p = 0.0062). On the final validation set, 17 out of 20 depth stacks were correctly labelled.

DISCUSSION

Despite being limited to only coarse training information in the form of example stacks from two age groups, the trained classifier was still able to effectively discriminate between younger skin and older skin. Curiously, despite being only trained with chronological age, there was still evidence for measurable differences in age scores due to sun exposure-with marked differences in scores on sun-exposed dorsal sites of some volunteers compared with less sun-exposed volar sites. These results suggest that fine-grained data-driven quantification of skin ageing is achievable.

Reflectance Confocal Microscopy of Aging Skin and Skin Cancer

Skin aging is a complex process that causes morphologic variations. Some of these variations have been hypothesized to be involved in skin cancer development. This paper reviews current knowledge of the features of aged skin as seen with reflectance confocal microscopy (RCM). Basic principles of the technique are described, and the RCM features of healthy skin and skin cancer are briefly discussed. Moreover, the RCM features at different layers of young and elderly skin are described, as are the variations that occur with passing years and in relation to sun exposure that contribute to photoaging and the development of skin cancer. RCM enables the noninvasive evaluation, at quasi-histologic resolution, of aging-related skin changes, some of which are shared with skin cancer; this ability helps avoid skin biopsy. Further research is needed to understand the relation between skin aging and skin cancer development.

Fractional 1064 nm picosecond laser and skin photoaging: in vivo evaluation of treatment effects with reflectance confocal microscopy

Few studies showed the role of picosecond laser (PLS) in the treatment of skin photoaging signs. However, no studies have explored the microscopic effects of PSL in photoaging. The aim of this study is to preliminarily identify clinical variations induced by a 1,064 nm Nd:YAG PSL on the décolleté area, then to apply the treatment protocol to treat facial photoaging and estimate the clinical and microscopic outcomes. A total of 10 consecutive patients with cutaneous photoaging were enrolled. Patients were treated 3 times at monthly intervals with the fractionated 1,064 nm Nd:YAG PSL. In a preliminary phase, PSL treatment was performed on the décolleté to establish its efficacy and safety. Then, the same treatment protocol was applied to all the face and clinical and reflectance confocal microscopy (RCM) were analyzed, comparing baseline (T0) pictures and 4 months after the treatment (T1) ones. On the face, a reduction of dyschromia and wrinkles was observed at T1. Furthermore, the underlying RCM variations were revealed at different skin levels. Our results show the clinical and microscopic effectiveness and safety of the 1,064-nm Nd:YAG PSL in the treatment of skin photoaging signs.

A plea for standardization of confocal microscopy and optical coherence tomography parameters to evaluate physiological and para-physiological skin conditions in cosmetic science

Non-invasive reflectance confocal microscopy (RCM) and optical coherence tomography (OCT) have been extended to the dermo-cosmetic field, for skin pathophysiology understanding and therapeutics monitoring. However, standardized methodology and parameters to interpret structures and changes in these settings are still lacking. Present study aimed to propose a validated standard methodology and a list of defined parameters for objective non-pathological skin assessments in the cosmetically sensitive cheekbone area of the face. OCT and RCM quantitative, semi-quantitative and qualitative features were considered for assessments. Validation process included 50 sets of images divided into two age groups. Inter-rater reliability was explored to assess the influence of the proposed methodology. Quantitative OCT parameters of "epidermal thickness," "density and attenuation coefficients" and "vascular density" were considered and calculated. Severity scales were developed for semi-quantitative OCT features of "disruption of collagen" and "vascular asset," while extent scales were produced for semi-quantitative RCM "irregular honeycomb," "mottled pigmentation" and "polycyclic papillary contours." Qualitative assessment was obtained for RCM type of collagen, and comparison between age groups was performed for all features considered. Severity visual scales assistance proved excellent inter-rater agreement across all semi-quantitative and qualitative domains. The assistance of shareable software systems allows for objective OCT quantitative parameters measurement. The use of standard reference scales, within a defined assessment methodology, offers high inter-rater reliability and thus reproducibility for semi-quantitative and qualitative OCT and RCM parameters. Taken together, our results may represent a starting point for a standardized application of RCM and OCT in dermo-cosmetic research and practice.

Skin photoaging in young men: A clinical study by skin imaging techniques

OBJECTIVE

Differences in skin physiology and lifestyle among people can influence the skin damage caused by solar radiation. Photoprotection habits play an important role to prevent skin photoaging. Thus, the objective of the present study was to evaluate the skin changes resulting from solar exposure in young men by skin imaging techniques.

METHODS

Twenty-three male, aged 18-28 years, with and without photoprotection habits participated in the study. Instrumental measurements in terms of dermis thickness and echogenicity (20 mHz ultrasound - DermaScanC^® ), morphological and structural skin characterization (Reflectance Confocal Microscopy - VivaScope^® 1500) and high-resolution imaging (Visioface^® ) were performed in the malar region of the face.

RESULTS

Pigmentation disorders, telangiectasia, wrinkles and lower dermis echogenicity were observed in the skin of subjects without photoprotection habits. Reflectance Confocal Microscopy images showed an irregular honeycomb pattern (35%), polycyclic papillae (40%) and coarse collagen fibres (35%), which are related to photoaging.

CONCLUSION

Sun exposure without photoprotection results in a loss of dermal echogenicity and changes in the epidermis structure and collagen fibres regardless of chronological age. Thus, the study adds data for a discussion about correct photoprotection habits among young people and can help to increase the use of sunscreens for male public.

Clinical Applications of In Vivo and Ex Vivo Confocal Microscopy

Confocal laser scanning microscopy (CLSM) has been introduced in clinical settings as a tool enabling a quasi-histologic view of a given tissue, without performing a biopsy. It has been applied to many fields of medicine mainly to the skin and to the analysis of skin cancers for both in vivo and ex vivo CLSM. In vivo CLSM involves reflectance mode, which is based on refractive index of cell structures serving as endogenous chromophores, reaching a depth of exploration of 200 μm. It has been proven to increase the diagnostic accuracy of skin cancers, both melanoma and non-melanoma. While histopathologic examination is the gold standard for diagnosis, in vivo CLSM alone and in addition to dermoscopy, contributes to the reduction of the number of excised lesions to exclude a melanoma, and to improve margin recognition in lentigo maligna, enabling tissue sparing for excisions. Ex vivo CLSM can be performed in reflectance and fluorescent mode. Fluorescence confocal microscopy is applied for “real-time” pathological examination of freshly excised specimens for diagnostic purposes and for the evaluation of margin clearance after excision in Mohs surgery. Further prospective interventional studies using CLSM might contribute to increase the knowledge about its application, reproducing real-life settings.

The Human Epidermal Basement Membrane: A Shaped and Cell Instructive Platform That Aging Slowly Alters

One of the most important functions of skin is to act as a protective barrier. To fulfill this role, the structural integrity of the skin depends on the dermal-epidermal junction—a complex network of extracellular matrix macromolecules that connect the outer epidermal layer to the underlying dermis. This junction provides both a structural support to keratinocytes and a specific niche that mediates signals influencing their behavior. It displays a distinctive microarchitecture characterized by an undulating pattern, strengthening dermal-epidermal connectivity and crosstalk. The optimal stiffness arising from the overall molecular organization, together with characteristic anchoring complexes, keeps the dermis and epidermis layers extremely well connected and capable of proper epidermal renewal and regeneration. Due to intrinsic and extrinsic factors, a large number of structural and biological changes accompany skin aging. These changes progressively weaken the dermal–epidermal junction substructure and affect its functions, contributing to the gradual decline in overall skin physiology. Most changes involve reduced turnover or altered enzymatic or non-enzymatic post-translational modifications, compromising the mechanical properties of matrix components and cells. This review combines recent and older data on organization of the dermal-epidermal junction, its mechanical properties and role in mechanotransduction, its involvement in regeneration, and its fate during the aging process.

Visible characteristics and structural modifications relating to enlarged facial pores

BACKGROUND

Many factors relate to enlargement and visibility of facial pores. However, how enlargement relates to modification of the skin structure is still poorly analysed. Therefore, our aim was to characterise the visible features and the micro-environment of facial pores.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

We recruited 160 women, half of them with normal-size facial pores, the other half presenting enlarged pores. We analysed their right cheek using standardised photography, in vivo reflectance microscopy and optical coherence tomography.

RESULTS

If the area of pores is indeed the most differentiating visible characteristic, enlarged facial pores are also denser and more contrasted. At the structural level, enlarged facial pores present a more regular organisation of keratinocytes, an irregular dermo-epidermal junction and a higher attenuation of collagen between the surface and deeper layers. Still, the most relevant alterations of enlarged facial pores are the presence of bright tubular structures surrounding hair follicles and enlarged hair shafts.

CONCLUSION

These observations suggest that alterations of the stroma could result in altered skin tensions, leading to the dilation of the infundibulum and enlarged hair shaft. The modified tension would also explain the more regular organisation of the keratinocytes and the irregular dermo-epidermal junction.

Reflectance confocal microscopy for striae distansae treatment monitoring after CO2 fractional laser

The aim of this study is to describe the efficacy and safety of CO₂ fractional laser to treat striae distensae (SD), before (T0) and 1 month after the last laser session (T1), in patients following different protocols based on the number of laser sessions, ≤4 and > 4. Efficacy was estimated with global assessment improvement scale (GAIS) performed by both physicians and patients, reflectance confocal microscopy (RCM), dermatology life quality index (DLQI). Safety was evaluated through pain assessment and adverse events. Eighteen patients with SD were enrolled. Clinical improvement of SD was observed in all patients at T1, as compared to T0. Furthermore, a reduction of RCM features of SD was observed at T1, above all in patients receiving >4 treatments, as compared to T0. Interestingly, we describe herein a new RCM feature of SD, the "neat-wall", corresponding to a distortion of the normal dermo-epidermal junction (DEJ), with a well-demarcated margin. A significant improvement of DLQI (P-value = .007) was also registered after SD treatment. Adverse events included temporary erythema and edema. In conclusion, the current study confirms the efficacy and safety of fractional CO₂ laser, proposing RCM features, such as parallel collagen fibers and the neat-wall, as potential markers of SD treatment response.

How cosmetic tightening products modulate the biomechanics and morphology of human skin

The active and passive mechanical behavior of a cosmetic tightening product for skin anti-aging is investigated based on a wide range of in vivo and in vitro measurements. The experimental data are used to inform a numerical model of the attained cosmetic effect, which is then implemented in a commercial finite-element framework and used to analyze the mechanisms that regulate the biomechanical interaction between the native tissue and the tightening film. Such a film reduces wrinkles and enhances skin consistency by increasing its stiffness by 48-107% and reducing inelastic, non-recoverable deformations (-47%). The substrate deformability influences both the extent of tightening and the reduction of wrinkle amplitude. The present findings allow, for the first time, to rationalize the mechanisms of action of cosmetic products with a tightening action and provide quantitative evidence for further optimization of this fascinating class of biomaterials.

Noninvasive skin imaging in esthetic medicine-Why do we need useful tools for evaluation of the esthetic procedures

BACKGROUND

Despite the constant development of aesthetic medicine, there is still a lack of objective methods to assess the effectiveness of antiaging treatments and their impact on the skin. Histopathological examination of the skin section provides most of the key information about the condition of the skin, but it is an invasive procedure that requires a skin biopsy, which may be associated with the formation of a scar that is considered to be an aesthetic defect. Non-invasive imaging methods of the skin like dermoscopy, skin ultrasonography and reflectance confocal microscopy may be a useful solution.

AIMS AND METHODS

In this systematic review, we present the possible application of noninvasive skin imaging methods in esthetic medicine. The literature search was conducted via medical database (PubMed, Google Scholar).

RESULTS

The research suggests the use of dermoscopy during laser therapy, for the targeted treatment of vascular lesions and appropriate adjustment of laser parameters. Skin ultrasonography, especially high-frequency ultrasonography, has been widely used in aesthetic medicine-during and after volumetric treatments and in the assessment of the effects of anti-cellulite therapies, treatments that correct discolorations and improve skin quality. Publications also highlight the importance of reflexive confocal microscopy in the evaluation of the results of anti-aging treatments using the fractional laser, moisturizing preparations or micro puncturing combined with hyaluronic acid injections.

CONCLUSION

Non-invasive skin imaging methods are useful tools for pre- and postoperative assessment in aesthetic medicine and their wide application may help to objectively assess the impact of anti-aging procedures on the skin.

Structural skin changes in elderly people investigated by reflectance confocal microscopy

BACKGROUND

Reflectance confocal microscopy (RCM) is particularly suitable for the study of skin ageing because it provides nearly histological information in vivo and non-invasively. However, there are no studies that evaluated RCM skin features of a large population older than 70 years.

OBJECTIVES

The aim of our investigation was to study age-related skin changes in an elderly population by RCM and to evaluate their topographical and gender differences.

METHODS

We obtained RCM images of photoprotected (volar arm) and chronic (face) and intermittently photoexposed (dorsal forearm) body sites of 209 volunteers (105 women and 104 men, mean age: 77.5, range 74-81 years). 15 previously reported and new RCM parameters related to skin ageing were assessed.

RESULTS

Photoexposed sites had thicker suprapapillary epidermis, more linear, distant and thin furrows, higher presence of mottled pigmentation, polycyclic papillae and coarse and huddled collagen and lower presence of dermal papillae than the photoprotected site. Irregular honeycomb pattern was not higher in photoexposed sites, indicating that it is probably more dependent on intrinsic ageing. Two ageing scores defined for facial skin ageing (epidermal disarray score and epidermal hyperplasia score) were found useful for the identification of photoageing. Gender differences only concerned some RCM parameters (i.e. thickness of different layers of the epidermis, furrows and collagen score) and some body sites, in line with the fact that women and men of our cohort had no major differences in clinically visible skin ageing.

CONCLUSIONS

Our study confirmed that RCM is a powerful non-invasive technique to microscopically quantify ageing signs and our observations contribute to highlight the differences between intrinsic and extrinsic ageing.

Its written all over your face: The molecular and physiological consequences of aging skin

Perhaps the most recognizable consequences of tissue aging are manifested in the skin. Hair graying and loss, telltale wrinkles, and age spots are indicative of physiological aging symptoms, many of which are analogous to processes in other tissues as well with less visible outcomes. While the study of skin aging has been conducted for decades, more recent work has illuminated many of the fundamental molecular and physiological causes of aging in the skin. Recent technological advances have allowed for the detection and quantification of a variety of physiological triggers that lead to aging in the skin and molecular methods have begun to determine the etiology of these phenotypic features. This review will attempt to summarize recent work in this area and provide some speculation about the next wave of studies.

Nanoscale investigation of human skin and study of skin penetration of Janus nanoparticles

Janus nanoparticles (JNP) are innovative nanocarriers with an interesting pharmaceutical and cosmetic potential. They are characterized by the presence of a lipid compartment associated with an aqueous compartment delimited by a phospholipid bilayer containing phospholipids and non-ionic surfactants. The hydrodynamic diameter of JNP varies between 150 and 300 nm. The purpose of this study was to answer the following questions: after cutaneous application, are JNP penetrating? If so, how deep? And in which state, intact or degraded? It was essential to understand these phenomena in order to control the rate and kinetics of diffusion of active ingredients, which can be encapsulated in this vehicle for pharmaceutical or cosmetic purposes. An innovative technique called AFM-IR, was used to elucidate the behavior of JNP after cutaneous application. This instrument, coupling atomic force microscopy and IR spectroscopy, allowing to perform chemical analysis at the nanometer scale thanks to local absorption measurements. The identification of organic molecules at the nanoscale is possible without any labelling. Before cutaneous application of JNP, the nano-structure of untreated human skin was investigated with AFM-IR. Then, in vitro human skin penetration of JNP was studied using Franz cells, and AFM-IR allowed us to perform ultra-local information investigations.