Keratin network modifications lead to the mechanical stiffening of the hair follicle fiber

The complex mechanical properties of biomaterials such as hair, horn, skin, or bone are determined by the architecture of the underlying fibrous bionetworks. Although much is known about the influence of the cytoskeleton on the mechanics of isolated cells, this has been less studied in tridimensional tissues. We used the hair follicle as a model to link changes in the keratin network composition and architecture to the mechanical properties of the nascent hair. We show using atomic force microscopy that the soft keratinocyte matrix at the base of the follicle stiffens by a factor of ∼360, from 30 kPa to 11 MPa along the first millimeter of the follicle. The early mechanical stiffening is concomitant to an increase in diameter of the keratin macrofibrils, their continuous compaction, and increasingly parallel orientation. The related stiffening of the material follows a power law, typical of the mechanics of nonthermal bending-dominated fiber networks. In addition, we used X-ray diffraction to monitor changes in the (supra)molecular organization within the keratin fibers. At later keratinization stages, the inner mechanical properties of the macrofibrils dominate the stiffening due to the progressive setting up of the cystine network. Our findings corroborate existing models on the sequence of biological and structural events during hair keratinization.

Localization of human hair structural lipids using nanoscale infrared spectroscopy and imaging

Atomic force microscopy (AFM) and infrared (IR) spectroscopy have been combined in a single instrument (AFM-IR) capable of producing IR spectra and absorption images at a sub-micrometer spatial resolution. This new device enables human hair to be spectroscopically characterized at levels not previously possible. In particular, it was possible to determine the location of structural lipids in the cuticle and cortex of hair. Samples of human hair were embedded, cross-sectioned, and mounted on ZnSe prisms. A tunable IR laser generating pulses of the order of 10 ns was used to excite sample films. Short duration thermomechanical waves, due to infrared absorption and resulting thermal expansion, were studied by monitoring the resulting excitation of the contact resonance modes of the AFM cantilever. Differences are observed in the IR absorbance intensity of long-chain methylene-containing functional groups between the outer cuticle, middle cortex, and inner medulla of the hair. An accumulation of structural lipids is clearly observed at the individual cuticle layer boundaries. This method should prove useful in the future for understanding the penetration mechanism of substances into hair as well as elucidating the chemical nature of alteration or possible damage according to depth and hair morphology.

In vitro and in vivo studies with tetra-hydro-jasmonic acid (LR2412) reveal its potential to correct signs of skin ageing

BACKGROUND

LR2412, a synthetic derivative of jasmonic acid, improved the reconstruction and homeostasis of our organotypic skin models.

OBJECTIVES

The need for efficient 'anti-ageing' treatments, in particular for the management of photoaged skin, prompted us to investigate this new ingredient for its potential to correct signs of skin ageing in vitro and in vivo and to identify its mode of action.

RESULTS

In vitro, penetration of LR2412 was evaluated using a Franz diffusion cell on excised human skin. Its exfoliating properties and interactions with the stratum corneum were studied using electron microscopy and X-ray diffraction. Experiments were performed on a human reconstructed skin model. In vivo, the effects of LR2412 on steroid-induced skin atrophy, a clinical skin ageing model, were assessed vs. vehicle. A patch test study evaluated its effect on deposition of fibrillin-rich microfibrils in the papillary dermis in clinically photoaged volunteers. A clinical study on the appearance of crow's feet wrinkles was conducted over 3 months of daily application. Penetration studies revealed that LR2412 reaches viable epidermis and superficial dermis, which are skin targets of anti-ageing actives. Within the upper layers of the stratum corneum LR2412 accelerates desquamation and improves the mechanical properties. At the dermal-epidermal junction of reconstructed skin, collagen IV, laminin-5 and fibrillin were stimulated. In vivo, LR2412 reversed steroid-induced atrophy. The patch test model confirms the deposition of fibrillin-rich microfibrils, then an in use clinical study revealed that it reduced facial wrinkles.

CONCLUSIONS

The in vitro and in vivo data demonstrate that based on its multiple interactions within human skin, LR2412 has potential to partially correct the signs of ageing in intrinsically and photoaged skin.

Ultrastructure of the human stratum corneum

The ultrastructural study of the intercellular spaces of the human stratum corneum was based on transmission electron microscopy of thin vertical sections and freeze-fracture replicas, field emission scanning electron microscopy and immunofluorescence confocal laser scanning microscopy. The maturation of the corneosomes and their enzymatic degradation could be depicted at strategic interfaces. These sharp and rapid metamorphoses are now relatively well understood from a morphological point of view. But morphology raises a lot of unsolved physiological problems.

Persistence of both peripheral and non-peripheral corneodesmosomes in the upper stratum corneum of winter xerosis skin versus only peripheral in normal skin

To understand the biochemical abnormalities that underlie the reduced desquamation observed in dry skin, we analyzed corneodesmosome degradation in normal and winter xerosis skin. Western blotting of total proteins from corneocytes obtained by varnish-strippings from the legs of 56 volunteers with normal (26) or xerotic (30) skin was performed using antibodies specific for (corneo)desmosome proteins. In the whole population, the amounts of desmoglein 1 and plakoglobin were found to be correlated, but were not related to the amounts of corneodesmosin. This suggests simultaneous proteolysis for the former proteins differing from that of corneodesmosin. Neither entire desmoplakins nor any proteolysis-derived fragments were detected. The amounts of corneodesmosin, desmoglein 1, and plakoglobin detected were found to be significantly higher in xerotic compared with normal skin extracts. Conventional and freeze-fracture electron microscopy showed the absence of nonperipheral corneodesmosomes in the upper stratum corneum of normal skin but the presence of a significant number of these structures in the same layer of winter xerosis skin. These results provide a more precise description of the proteolysis of corneodesmosome components in the upper cornified layer of the epidermis. They support previous studies demonstrating the importance of corneodesmosome degradation in desquamation and reveal that the nonperipheral corneodesmosomes, which are totally degraded during maturation of the stratum corneum in normal skin, persist in winter xerosis, probably leading to abnormal desquamation.

Cryo-techniques applied to stratum corneum with description of a new sample holder for cryo-scanning electron microscopy of freeze-fractured samples

Stratum corneum structure greatly differs from that of the living epidermis and specific sample cryo-preparation techniques have to be used. Practical aspects of these cryo-techniques applied to stratum corneum are discussed. Emphasis is placed on scanning electron microscopy of cryo-fixed samples. A new sample holder designed for cryo-scanning electron microscopy of freeze-fractured stratum corneum is described.