A high performance thin layer chromatography (HPTLC) method for the quality assessment of agarwood (Aquilaria malaccensis) oil from Northeast India

The high-value agarwood oil, largely used in perfumery is generally graded by the traditional method of sensorial assessment. The compositional complexity and variation made its quality control challenging. Besides, non-volatile contaminants and adulterants are the bottlenecks in gas-chromatographic detection. Herein, a HPTLC based technique was developed for the quality assessment of agarwood oil from Northeast India. A 'marker band' (anisylacetone and oxygenated sesquiterpene rich) on HPTLC profile, containing major peaks of the oil and characteristic agarwood aroma was quantified to assess the quality. The developed method was validated in terms of specificity, linearity, sensitivity, recovery and precision. The application of the method in test samples of three different grades indicated a positive correlation between 'marker band' quantity and oil quality. Its abundance in the superior grade oil was >50% and <20% in poor grade. It can be an efficient analytical tool for the quality assessment and grading of agarwood oil.

Are "clean" products safe for children? An analysis of contact allergens in "clean" children's products from a popular retailer

BACKGROUND

Considering consumer trends toward the use of "clean" personal care products and increasing recognition of childhood allergic contact dermatitis, we sought to characterize the allergen profile of such children's products.

METHODS

Ingredients of baby washes/shampoos, bubble baths, and moisturizers identified using the "Clean Baby" filter on Target®'s online marketplace were analyzed for relevant pediatric contact allergens.

RESULTS

Product compositions declared fragrance in 82% of products, Compositae in 46%, cocamidopropyl betaine in 45%, glucosides in 37%, propylene glycol in 12%, lanolin in 1%, and no allergens in 9%-methylisothiazolinone and formaldehyde were not found.

CONCLUSION

Children are greatly impacted by atopic dermatitis and skin barrier dysfunction, which underscores a need for greater public awareness of sensitizing and irritating ingredients, particularly regarding pediatric personal care products.

MbEOMT1 regulates methyleugenol biosynthesis in Melaleuca bracteata F. Muell

Methyleugenol, a bioactive compound in the phenylpropene family, undergoes its final and crucial biosynthetic transformation when eugenol O-methyltransferase (EOMT) converts eugenol into methyleugenol. While Melaleuca bracteata F. Muell essential oil is particularly rich in methyleugenol, it contains only trace amounts of its precursor, eugenol. This suggests that the EOMT enzyme in M. bracteata is highly efficient, although it has not yet been characterized. In this study, we isolated and identified an EOMT gene from M. bracteata, termed MbEOMT1, which is primarily expressed in the flowers and leaves and is inducible by methyl jasmonate (MeJA). Subcellular localization of MbEOMT1 in the cytoplasm was detected. Through transient overexpression experiments, we found that MbEOMT1 significantly elevates the concentration of methyleugenol in M. bracteata leaves. Conversely, silencing of MbEOMT1 via virus-induced gene silencing led to a marked reduction in methyleugenol levels. Our in vitro enzymatic assays further confirmed that MbEOMT1 specifically catalyzes the methylation of eugenol. Collectively, these findings establish that the MbEOMT1 gene is critical for methyleugenol biosynthesis in M. bracteata. This study enriches the understanding of phenylpropene biosynthesis and suggests that MbEOMT1 could serve as a valuable catalyst for generating bioactive compounds in the future.

Nitrile-synthesizing enzymes and biocatalytic synthesis of volatile nitrile compounds: A review

Nitriles (R-CN) comprise a broad group of chemicals industrially produced and used in fine chemicals, pharmaceuticals, and bulk applications, polymer chemistry, solvents, etc. Nitriles are important starting materials for producing carboxylic acids, amides, amines, and several other compounds. In addition, some volatile nitriles have been evaluated for their potential as ingredients in fragrance and flavor formulations. However, many nitrile synthesis methods have drawbacks, such as drastic reaction conditions, limited substrate scope, lack of readily available reagents, poor yields, and long reaction times. In contrast to chemical synthesis, biocatalytic approaches using enzymes can produce nitriles without harsh conditions, such as high temperatures and pressures, or toxic compounds. In this review, we summarize the nitrile-synthesizing enzymes from microorganisms, plants, and animals. Furthermore, we introduce several examples of biocatalytic synthesis of volatile nitrile compounds, particularly those using aldoxime dehydratase.

Fragrance in dermocosmetic emulsions: From microstructure to skin application

Fragrance is added to almost all dermocosmetic emulsions, as it has been found to be a key driver in consumer choice and contributes to the perception of product performance. Fragrance is a complex mixture of odorant chemicals at different concentrations. When incorporated into a formulation, the individual fragrance chemicals partition between the emulsion phases depending on their physicochemical properties, which can impact the structure, stability, texture and odour of the final product. On the other hand, it is well known in the food industry how the composition and structure of food emulsion matrices influence the release of aroma chemicals. Fragranced dermocosmetic emulsions have been studied to a lesser extent but it is interesting to apply findings from the food domain since emulsion structure, composition and aroma compounds share common features. This review aims to give an overview of the literature dealing with the interactions between fragrance and dermocosmetic emulsions. The effects of fragrance on emulsion microstructure, stability and texture are highlighted and discussed. The effects of composition and structure of emulsion on the release of fragrance molecules are also presented. Finally, the interactions between skin and fragranced emulsions are addressed.

Examining differences in menstrual and intimate care product use by race/ethnicity and education among menstruating individuals

Introduction

United States consumers spend over two billion dollars a year on intimate care products. These products, along with scented menstrual products, are marketed for odor control, perceived "freshness," and vaginal/vulvar cleanliness. However, these scent-altering products may increase exposure to carcinogenic and endocrine-disrupting chemicals. Prior research has not adequately characterized demographic differences in product use. The objective of our study is to examine racial/ethnic and educational differences in menstrual and intimate care product use among people who menstruate.

Methods

We pooled data from two US-based cross sectional studies to examine demographic characteristics and product use in 661 participants aged 18-54 years. Participants reported use of scented and unscented menstrual products (tampons, sanitary pads, and menstrual cups) and intimate care products (vaginal douches, sprays, wipes, and powders). We examined differences by race/ethnicity and education using log-binomial regression and latent class analysis (LCA), which can identify groups based on product use patterns.

Results

Our sample was 33.4% Black, 30.9% Latina, 18.2% White, and 16.2% another identity. Approximately half the population had a bachelor's degree or more; 1.4% identified as transgender and 1.8% as non-binary. In adjusted models, scent-altering products (i.e., scented menstrual and intimate care products) were more likely to be used by those with less formal education (p < 0.05). Unscented menstrual products were more likely to be used by those with more formal education. Compared to Black participants, White participants were more likely to use unscented tampons and menstrual cups and less likely to use douches and wipes (p < 0.05). Using LCA we identified two groups: one more likely to use scent-altering products, and a second more likely to use unscented menstrual products. Less education and older age, but not race/ethnicity, was significantly associated with membership in the group more likely to use scent-altering products. While sex/gender composition did not statistically vary across groups, all non-binary participants fell in the unscented menstrual product group.

Discussion

Lower educational attainment was consistently associated with greater use of scent-altering menstrual and intimate care products. Future research should examine associations between body odor stigma, product use, and health risks at intersections of race, class, and gender.

Perceptions of skincare ingredients and product labels in pediatric eczema care

Educating pediatric eczema patients and caregivers on appropriate product selection and avoidance of common irritants or allergens is a crucial aspect of eczema management. This study surveyed 80 pediatric caregivers in an academic pediatric dermatology clinic to assess influential factors in caregivers' selection of pediatric eczema-care products and identify ways to improve patient counseling on appropriate product selection and avoidance of common irritants or allergens. Caregivers frequently reported positive perceptions of commonly recommended ingredients for eczema but had inconsistent perceptions of fragrant plant oils and extracts, regardless of previous counseling on fragrance avoidance. These findings demonstrate uncertainty and misperceptions perpetuated by product labeling and a need for improved counseling strategies for avoiding fragrance and excessive product costs.

Comparative Metabolomics and Transcriptome Analysis Reveal the Fragrance-Related Metabolite Formation in Phoebe zhennan Wood

Nanmu (Phoebe zhennan) has a unique fragrance and is a high-quality tree species for forest conservation. The types and contents of volatile compounds in different tissues of nanmu wood are different, and the study of its volatile metabolites can help us to understand the source of its fragrance and functions. In order to explore the metabolites related to the wood fragrance of nanmu and to find out the unique volatile substances in the heartwood, gas chromatography-mass spectrometry (GC-MS) was performed to analyze the non-targeted metabolomics in five radial tissues from the sapwood to the heartwood of nanmu. A total of 53 volatile metabolites belonging to 11 classes were detected in all tissues, including terpenes, aromatic hydrocarbons, organoheterocyclics, phenols, esters, organic acids, alcohols, alkaloids, alkane, indoles derivatives, and others. And most of the volatile metabolites were identified for the first time in nanmu wood. Among them, terpenes and aromatic hydrocarbons were the main volatile components. In addition, 22 differential metabolites were screened from HW and SW, HW, and TZ via metabolomic analysis. Among these DAMs, three volatile metabolites (cadinene, a sesquiterpenoid; p-cymene, a monoterpenoid; 1,3,5-triisopropylbenzene, an aromatic hydrocarbon) contributed heavily to the characteristic fragrance of the heartwood. Additionally, the expression of transcripts showed that the unigenes in the terpenoid biosynthesis pathway were especially up-regulated in the SW. Therefore, we speculated that fragrance-related metabolites were synthesized in SW and then deposited in heartwood during sapwood transformed to heartwood. The expression levels of transcription factors (e.g., WRKY, C2H2, NAC) acted as the major regulatory factors in the synthesis of terpenoid. The results lay the foundations for further studies on the formation mechanism of fragrance components in nanmu wood and also provide a reference for the further development and utilization of nanmu wood.

The Scent of Change: Sustainable Fragrances Through Industrial Biotechnology

Current environmental and safety considerations urge innovation to address the need for sustainable high-value chemicals that are embraced by consumers. This review discusses the concept of sustainable fragrances, as high-value, everyday and everywhere chemicals. Current and emerging technologies represent an opportunity to produce fragrances in an environmentally and socially responsible way. Biotechnology, including fermentation, biocatalysis, and genetic engineering, has the potential to reduce the environmental footprint of fragrance production while maintaining quality and consistency. Computational and in silico methods, including machine learning (ML), are also likely to augment the capabilities of sustainable fragrance production. Continued innovation and collaboration will be crucial to the future of sustainable fragrances, with a focus on developing novel sustainable ingredients, as well as ethical sourcing practices.

Allergic contact dermatitis from essential oil in consumer products: Mode of uses and value of patch-tests with an essential oil series. Results of a French study of the DAG (dermato-allergy group of the French Society of Dermatology)

OBJECTIVE

To analyse the clinical characteristics and sensitivity of an essential oil patch-test series (EOS) in patients sensitized to their own essential oils (EOs).

METHOD

We analysed the clinical data and patch-test results obtained with the European baseline series (BSE) and an EOS, as well as the mode of use of EOs, through a questionnaire included in the patient file.

RESULTS

The study included 42 patients (79% women, average age 50 years) with allergic contact dermatitis (ACD), 8 patients required hospitalization. All patients were sensitized to the EO they used, primarily lavender (Lavandula augustifolia, 8000-28-0), tea tree (Melaleuca alternifolia leaf oil, 68647-73-4), ravintsara (Cinnamomum camphora oil, 92201-50-8), and 2 cases were attributed to helichrysum (helichrysum italicum flower absolute, 90045-56-0). 71% had positive patch tests to fragrance mix I or II, 9 only to the EOS and 4 only with their personal EO. Interestingly, 40% of patients did not spontaneously mention the use of EOs, and only 33% received advice on their use at the time of purchase.

CONCLUSION

Patch-tests with the BSE, limonene and linalool HP, and oxidized tea tree oil is sufficient to detect most EO-sensitized patients. The most important is to test the patient's own used EOs.

Patch testing hydroperoxides of limonene and linalool in consecutive patients-Results of the IVDK 2018-2020

BACKGROUND

Hydroperoxides of limonene (Lim-OOHs) and linalool (Lin-OOHs) are potent contact sensitizers.

OBJECTIVES

To investigate the prevalence of positive patch test (PT) reactions to Lim-OOHs and Lin-OOHs in consecutive patients, their demographic factors and concomitant reactions.

METHODS

Between 7/2018 and 12/2020, Lim-OOHs 0.3% pet. and Lin-OOHs 1% pet. were patch tested in 5511 consecutive patients. We assessed PT reactivity and analysed data from patients with either positive or negative PTs to Lim-OOHs and Lin-OOHs.

RESULTS

Positive PT results to Lim-OOHs (n = 170, 3.1%) and Lin-OOHs (n = 483, 8.8%) were frequent. Most of the positive reactions were weak (LimOOHs n = 134/LinOOHs n = 429), and even more frequently, doubtful (n = 252/n = 578) or irritant reactions (n = 81/n = 178) were documented. PT reactivity to Lim-OOHs and Lin-OOHs was increased in patients with irritant reactions to sodium lauryl sulphate (SLS). The proportion of leg dermatitis and concomitant positive reactions to fragrances and essential oils was increased in patients with reactivity to these hydroperoxides.

CONCLUSION

The observed reaction pattern suggests that both test preparations display an irritant potential with an increased risk of false positive reactions. Preparations should be chemically monitored in order to reduce irritancy. Mindful interpretation of PT results and aimed patch testing of lower concentrations is recommended.

Stabilization and Sustained Release of Fragrances Using Silk-PEG Microspheres

Fragrances, which are commonly used in food, textiles, consumer products, and medical supplies, are volatile compounds that require stabilization and controlled release due to their sensitivity to environmental conditions such as light, oxygen, temperature, and humidity. Encapsulation in various material matrices is a desired technique for these purposes, and there is a growing interest in using sustainable natural materials to reduce environmental impact. In this study, fragrance encapsulation in microspheres made from silk fibroin (SF) was investigated. Fragrance-loaded silk fibroin microspheres (Fr-SFMSs) were prepared by adding fragrance/surfactant emulsions to silk solutions, followed by mixing them with polyethylene glycol under ambient conditions. The study investigated eight different fragrances, where citral, beta-ionone, and eugenol showed higher binding affinities to silk than the other five fragrances, resulting in better microsphere formation with uniform sizes and higher fragrance loading (10-30%). Citral-SFMSs showed characteristic crystalline β-sheet structures of SF, high thermal stability (initial weight loss at 255 °C), long shelf life at 37 °C (>60 days), and sustained release (∼30% of citral remained after incubation at 60 °C for 24 h). When citral-SFMSs with different sizes were used to treat cotton fabrics, about 80% of the fragrance remained on the fabrics after one wash, and the duration of release from the treated fabrics was significantly longer than that of control samples treated with citral alone (no microspheres). This method of preparing Fr-SFMSs has potential applications in textile finishing, cosmetics, and the food industry.

Comparative Evaluation of Mutagenic, Genotoxic, Cytotoxic, and Antimicrobial Effects of Flavour and Fragrance Aldehydes, Ketones, Oximes, and Oxime Ethers

Despite the large number of odoriferous compounds available, new ones with interesting olfactory characteristics are desired due to their potentially high commercial value. Here, we report for the first time mutagenic, genotoxic, and cytotoxic effects, and antimicrobial properties of low-molecular fragrant oxime ethers, and we compare their properties with corresponding oximes and carbonyl compounds. 24 aldehydes, ketones, oximes, and oxime ethers were evaluated for mutagenic and cytotoxic effects in Ames (using Salmonella typhimurium strains TA 98 with genotype hisD3052, rfa, uvrB, pKM101, and TA100 with genotype hisG46, rfa, uvrB, pKM101, concentration range: 0.0781-40mg/mL) and MTS (using HEK293T cell line concentration of tested substances: 0.025mM) assays. Antimicrobial evaluation was carried out against Bacillus cereus (ATCC 10876), Staphylococcus aureus (ATCC 6538), Enterococcus hirae (ATCC 10541), Pseudomonas aeruginosa (ATCC 15442), Escherichia coli (ATCC 10536), Legionella pneumophila (ATCC 33152); Candida albicans (ATCC 10231) and Aspergillus brasiliensis (ATCC 16404) with concentration range of tested substances 9.375 - 2.400mg/mL. Furthermore, 5 representatives of carbonyl compounds, oximes, and an oxime ether (stemone, buccoxime, citral, citral oxime, and propiophenone oxime O-ethyl ether) were evaluated for genotoxic properties in SOS-Chromotest (concentration range: 7.8·10^-5 - 5·10^-3mg/mL). All of the tested compounds did not exhibit mutagenic, genotoxic, or cytotoxic effects. Oximes and oxime ethers showed relevant antimicrobial activity against pathogenic species (P. aeruginosa, S. aureus, E.coli, L. pneumophila, A. brasiliensis, C. albicans) in the MIC range 0.075 - 2.400mg/mL compared to the common preservative methylparaben with the MIC range 0.400-3.600mg/mL. Our study shows that oxime ethers have the potential to be used as fragrant agents in functional products.

Labellum Features and Chemical Composition of Floral Scent in Bulbophyllum carunculatum Garay, Hamer & Siegrist (Section Lepidorhiza Schltr., Bulbophyllinae Schltr., Orchidaceae Juss.)

The vast majority of fly-pollinated Bulbophyllum species use a combination of visual and olfactory clues to mimic food sources and brood/oviposition sites of pollinators. The aims of the present work were to characterize the floral secretory tissue and the floral scent and compare them with those previously described in B. echinolabium. Based on the histochemical results, the labellar secretion in B. carunculatum is the protein-rich mucilage. The adaxial epidermal cells of the labellum showed typical features of secretory activity. Plastids contained plastoglobuli, which are thought to be the places for scent production in osmophores. Juxtaposed with FeCl₃ staining, the presence of dihydroxyphenolic globules in the cytoplasm of the epidermis and sub-epidermis was confirmed. Phenolic derivatives were also described with GC/MS analysis of the floral scent. The number of aromatic compounds and hydrocarbons was indicated in the floral scent of B. carunculatum. Moreover, pregnane-3,20-dione, occurring in the highest percentage in the floral fragrance of B. carunculatum, is a biologically active, 5-alpha-reduced metabolite of plasma progesterone. Progesterone is a mammalian gonadal hormone, but, like other steroid hormones, has been found in plants as intermediates in different biosynthetic pathways. The research on biosynthesis and functions of progesterone and its derivatives in flowers is still lacking.

A novel genome sequence of Jasminum sambac helps uncover the molecular mechanism underlying the accumulation of jasmonates

Jasminum sambac is a well-known plant for its attractive and exceptional fragrance, the flowers of which are used to produce scented tea. Jasmonate (JA), an important plant hormone was first identified in Jasminum species. Jasmine plants contain abundant JA naturally, of which the molecular mechanisms of synthesis and accumulation are not clearly understood. Here, we report a telomere-to-telomere consensus assembly of a double-petal J. sambac genome along with two haplotype-resolved genomes. We found that gain-and-loss, positive selection, and allelic specific expression of aromatic volatile-related genes contributed to the stronger flower fragrance in double-petal J. sambac compared with single- and multi-petal jasmines. Through comprehensive comparative genomic, transcriptomic, and metabolomic analyses of double-petal J. sambac, we revealed the genetic basis of the production of aromatic volatiles and salicylic acid (SA), and the accumulation of JA under non-stress conditions. We identified several key genes associated with JA biosynthesis, and their non-stress related activities lead to extraordinarily high concentrations of JA in tissues. High JA synthesis coupled with low degradation in J. sambac results in accumulation of high JA under typical environmental conditions, similar to the accumulation mechanism of SA. This study offers important insights into the biology of J. sambac, and provides valuable genomic resources for further utilization of natural products.

fNIRS neuroimaging in olfactory research: A systematic literature review

There are a number of key features which make olfaction difficult to study; subjective processes of odor detection, discrimination and identification, and individualistic odor hedonic perception and associated odor memories. In this systematic review we explore the role functional near-infrared spectroscopy (fNIRS) has played in understanding olfactory perception in humans. fNIRS is an optical neuroimaging technique able to measure changes in brain hemodynamics and oxygenation related to neural electrical activity. Adhering to PRISMA guidelines, results of this search found that generally the majority of studies involving healthy adult subjects observed increased activity in response to odors. Other population types were also observed, such as infants, individuals with autism, attention deficit hyperactivity disorder (ADHD), post-traumatic stress disorder (PTSD), mild cognitive impairment (MCI) and dysosmia. fNIRS coverage heavily favored the prefrontal cortex, temporal and parietal regions. This review finds that odor induced cortical activation is dependent on multiple factors, such as odorant type, gender and population type. This review also finds that there is room for improvement in areas such as participant diversity, use of wearable fNIRS systems, physiological monitoring and multi-distance channels.

Reciprocal relationships between sleep and smell

Despite major anatomical differences with other mammalian sensory systems, olfaction shares with those systems a modulation by sleep/wake states. Sleep modulates odor sensitivity and serves as an important regulator of both perceptual and associative odor memory. In addition, however, olfaction also has an important modulatory impact on sleep. Odors can affect the latency to sleep onset, as well as the quality and duration of sleep. Olfactory modulation of sleep may be mediated by direct synaptic interaction between the olfactory system and sleep control nuclei, and/or indirectly through odor modulation of arousal and respiration. This reciprocal interaction between sleep and olfaction presents novel opportunities for sleep related modulation of memory and perception, as well as development of non-pharmacological olfactory treatments of simple sleep disorders.

An odorant receptor that senses four classes of musk compounds

Musk was originally identified in male musk deer and other mammals to mark territories and attract females. In humans, musk compounds are widely used in perfumes and consumer products for their superior perceptual odor quality.^1,2,3,4,5 Strikingly diverse natural and synthetic chemicals have exhibited a similar "musky" odor, which has resulted in diverse models of musk odor perception and raises questions regarding the simplistic associations between chemical features and odor quality. Scientists' lack of understanding of this principle has hampered the design of a novel musk compound. Here, we functionally identified the odorant receptor, OR5A2, as a receptor for the musky odor of diverse musk compounds. First, we discovered that engineered OR5A2 with enhanced expression in heterologous cells is sensitive to and selective of musk compounds in all four structural classes. Second, the clarified functional variation of OR5A2 accounts for the reported association between genetic variation and perception in a musk compound. Finally, the revealed ligand selectivity of OR5A2 provides insight into developing a trained model to use machine learning-based virtual screening on candidates for a new musk compound. We propose that OR5A2 contributes to the long-sought gateway of sensing musk compounds and generating their unique odor quality.

The significant value of sustainable cosmetics fragrance in the spotlight after COVID-19

BACKGROUND

The coronavirus disease 2019 (COVID-19) pandemic has brought major changes to the world's population. This has led to increased wearing of masks to prevent infectious diseases, which can contribute to exacerbation of stress and the emergence of mental illness due to a physical health crisis.

OBJECTIVES

Therefore, this study comprehensively investigated the reasons why cosmetics customers pay attention to sustainable fragrances after COVID-19.

METHODS

This review article is a literature review, and a narrative review approach was used in this study. A total of 598 references were selected from 2004 to 2022 using representative journal search sites such as PubMed, Google Scholar, Scopus, and RISS. Among them, a total of 39 articles were successfully completed in this study using the PRISMA flowchart in the final stage.

RESULTS

In this study, by identifying the changes and needs of K-beauty and global cosmetics industry consumers who aspire for sustainable safety amid the COVID-19 pandemic, the increase in bad breath caused by the increase in mask wearing was recognized, and the need for fragrance due to mental health was recognized. Demand is expected to increase.

CONCLUSION

This study tried to change the perception of cosmetic fragrances into safe edible fragrances. Therefore, it is expected to be used as an important marketing material for the global cosmetics market.

Integrated Transcriptomic, Metabolomic, and Physiological Analyses Reveal New Insights into Fragrance Formation in the Heartwood of Phoebe hui

Phoebe hui is an extremely valuable tree that is the main source of the fragrant golden-thread nanmu wood. Although the fragrance of wood has been investigated in several trees, the potential substances and gene regulation mechanisms that are involved in fragrance formation are poorly understood. Here, three radial tissues, sapwood (SW), heartwood (HW), and the transition zone (TZ) in between them, were compared via integrative physiological, volatile-metabolomic, and transcriptomic analyses to identify the key metabolites and regulatory mechanisms involved in fragrance formation. During heartwood formation, gradual starch grain loss was accompanied by the deposition of lipids and extractives in the cell lumen. Extracts of terpenoids were synthesized and accumulated in the heartwood, including monoterpenoids (limonene and p-cymene) and sesquiterpenes (cubebene and guaiadiene); these were identified as being closely related to the special fragrance of the wood. Additionally, the expression of transcripts showed that the genes related to primary metabolism were specifically upregulated in the SW, whereas genes annotated in terpenoid biosynthesis were specifically upregulated in the HW. Therefore, we speculated that terpenoid biosynthesis occurs in situ in the HW via the HW formation model of Type-III (Santalum) using the precursors that were produced by primary metabolism in the SW. The expression levels of transcription factors (e.g., MYB, WRKY, and C2H2) acted as the major regulatory factors in the synthesis of terpenoids. Our results explain the special fragrance in P. hui and broaden the current knowledge of the regulatory mechanisms of fragrance formation. This work provides a framework for future research that is focused on improving wood quality and value.

Novel PCR-Based Multiplex Assays for Detecting Major Quality and Biotic Stress in Commercial and Weedy Rice

Simple Summary

Rice, the staple food for more than half of humanity, is grown predominantly in Asia, the world’s most populous continent with the fastest-growing economy. The present-day rice industry must not only meet increasing demand but also changing consumer demands, with a strong emphasis placed on producing high-quality rice. While the rapid development of advanced genotyping methods can be useful for modern rice breeding programs, some methods (such as capillary electrophoresis or sequencing) can be costly to apply in laboratories with limited resources. To address this issue, we developed six novel multiplex polymerase chain reaction (PCR) assays that employ a standard agarose-based gel electrophoresis system to simultaneously detect at least two major grain quality (amylose content and fragrance) and biotic stress (blast, sheath blight, and bacterial leaf blight) genes in rice. One of these assays, which can detect all three targeted biotic stresses, was found to be useful in screening Malaysian weedy rice that may contain novel sources of disease resistance. The universal protocol described in this study can be used in routine molecular laboratories to aid rice breeding initiatives in Malaysia and other resource-constrained countries.

Abstract

While previous research has demonstrated that multiplex polymerase chain reaction (PCR) can be a cost-effective approach to detect various genes in crops, the availability of multiplex assays to simultaneously screen both grain quality and biotic stress resistance traits in rice (Oryza sativa) is limited. In this work, we report six novel multiplex assays that use a universal protocol to detect major rice grain quality (amylose content and fragrance) and biotic stress (blast, sheath blight, and bacterial leaf blight) traits with amplified products consisting of up to four primer pairs that can be analyzed using a standard agarose-based gel electrophoresis system. Recent studies have suggested that weedy rice has novel sources of disease resistance. However, an intensive screening of weedy biotypes has not been reported in Malaysia. Accordingly, we employed one of the developed multiplex assays to screen reported genes or quantitative trait loci (QTLs) associated with blast, sheath blight, and bacterial leaf blight diseases in 100 weedy rice biotypes collected from five local fields, with phenotyping performed to validate the genotyping results. In conclusion, our universal multiplex protocol is effective for the large-scale genotyping of rice genetic resources, and it can be employed in routine molecular laboratories with limited resources.

Dermal Exposure to Hazardous Chemicals in Baby Diapers: A Re-Evaluation of the Quantitative Health Risk Assessment Conducted by The French Agency for Food, Environmental and Occupational Health and Safety (ANSES)

In January 2019, the French Agency for Food, Environmental and Occupational Health and Safety (ANSES) published an opinion on risks related to the presence of hazardous chemicals in infant diapers. ANSES found that health reference values were largely exceeded for polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons (PAHs), dioxins (PCCD/Fs) and dioxin-like polychlorobiphenyls (DL-PCBs). The levels of formaldehyde and some fragrances were also considered potentially unsafe. Therefore, ANSES concluded that actions have to be taken to restrict levels of these contaminants in diapers. Under the exposure scenario deemed the most reliable by ANSES, estimates of cancer risks of the most potent PAHs detected in diapers exceeded 10⁻³ and hazard quotients for neurobehavioral effects attained values up to 66. Regarding dioxins and DL-PCBs, ANSES derived a hazard quotient of 12 for the risk of decreased sperm count at adult age. The aim of this study was to examine whether the exposure and risk assessment conducted by ANSES contained potential flaws that could explain such a high exceedance of health reference values. This study also put into perspective the exposure from diapers with that from breast milk whose benefits for children’s health are undisputable despite contamination by PAHs, dioxins and DL-PCB_S.

The chromosome-scale genomes of Dipterocarpus turbinatus and Hopea hainanensis (Dipterocarpaceae) provide insights into fragrant oleoresin biosynthesis and hardwood formation

Dipterocarpaceae are typical tropical plants (dipterocarp forests) that are famous for their high economic value because of their production of fragrant oleoresins, top-quality timber and usage in traditional Chinese medicine. Currently, the lack of Dipterocarpaceae genomes has been a limiting factor to decipher the fragrant oleoresin biosynthesis and gain evolutionary insights into high-quality wood formation in Dipterocarpaceae. We generated chromosome-level genome assemblies for two representative Dipterocarpaceae species viz. Dipterocarpus turbinatus Gaertn. f. and Hopea hainanensis Merr. et Chun. Our whole-genome duplication (WGD) analysis revealed that Dipterocarpaceae underwent a shared WGD event, which showed significant impacts on increased copy numbers of genes related to the biosynthesis of terpene, BAHD acyltransferases, fatty acid and benzenoid/phenylpropanoid, which probably confer to the formation of their characteristic fragrant oleoresin. Additionally, compared with common soft wood plants, the expansion of gene families was also found to be associated with wood formation, such as in CESA (cellulose synthase), CSLE (cellulose synthase-like protein E), laccase and peroxidase in Dipterocarpaceae genomes, which might also contribute to the formation of harder, stronger and high-density timbers. Finally, an integrative analysis on a combination of genomic, transcriptomic and metabolic data from different tissues provided further insights into the molecular basis of fragrant oleoresins biosynthesis and high-quality wood formation of Dipterocarpaceae. Our study contributes the first two representative genomes for Dipterocarpaceae, which are valuable genetic resources for further researches on the fragrant oleoresins and superior-quality timber, genome-assisted breeding and improvement, and conservation biology of this family.

The genome of Cymbidium sinense revealed the evolution of orchid traits

The Orchidaceae is of economic and ecological importance and constitutes ˜10% of all seed plant species. Here, we report a genome physical map for Cymbidium sinense, a well-known species belonging to genus Cymbidium that has thousands of natural variation varieties of flower organs, flower and leaf colours and also referred as the King of Fragrance, which make it arose into a unique cultural symbol in China. The high-quality chromosome-scale genome assembly was 3.52 Gb in size, 29 638 protein-coding genes were predicted, and evidence for whole-genome duplication shared with other orchids was provided. Marked amplification of cytochrome- and photosystem-related genes was observed, which was consistent with the shade tolerance and dark green leaves of C. sinense. Extensive duplication of MADS-box genes, and the resulting subfunctional and expressional differentiation, was associated with regulation of species-specific flower traits, including wild-type and mutant-type floral patterning, seasonal flowering and ecological adaption. CsSEP4 was originally found to positively regulate gynostemium development. The CsSVP genes and their interaction proteins CsAP1 and CsSOC1 were significantly expanded and involved in the regulation of low-temperature-dependent flowering. Important genetic clues to the colourful leaf traits, purple-black flowers and volatile trait in C. sinense were also found. The results provide new insights into the molecular mechanisms of important phenotypic traits of Cymbidium and its evolution and serve as a powerful platform for future evolutionary studies and molecular breeding of orchids.

Determination of Droplet-Bound and Free Gas-Phase Fragrances Using a Filter-Incorporated Needle-Trap Device and Solid-Phase Microextraction Technologies

Some of the fragrance compounds in aerosols tend to remain trapped inside the droplets. The ability to capture these droplets would make it possible to desorb and transfer the analytes dissolved within for determination. In this study, we design a novel filter-incorporated needle-trap device and use it to capture fragrance compounds in droplets as well as the gas phase of seven aerosol spray samples. For comparison, thin-film and solid-phase microextraction were also employed to extract gas-phase-borne fragrances from the same sprays. The results revealed that the filter-incorporated needle-trap device enables the extraction of total concentrations due to its ability to trap fragrance-containing droplets, whereas thin-film and solid-phase microextraction are only able to extract unbound compounds present in the gas phase. In addition, the developed needle-trap device provided acceptable results, proving its applicability for the analysis of aroma in other samples, such as beer and soda.

Contact allergy to haptens in the Swedish baseline series: Results from the Swedish Patch Test Register (2010 to 2017)

BACKGROUND

Allergic contact dermatitis has considerable public health impact and causative haptens vary over time.

OBJECTIVES

To report the prevalence of contact allergy to allergens in the Swedish baseline series 2010 to 2017, as registered in the Swedish Patch Test Register.

METHODS

Results and demographic information for patients tested with the Swedish baseline series in 2010 to 2017 were analysed.

RESULTS

Data for 21 663 individuals (females 69%) were included. Females had significantly more positive patch tests (54% vs 40%). The reaction prevalence rates were highest for nickel sulfate (20.7%), fragrance mix I (7.1%), Myroxylon pereirae (6.9%), potassium dichromate (6.9%), cobalt chloride (6.8%), methylchloroisothiazolinone/methylisothiazolinone (MCI/MI; 6.4%), MI (3.7%), colophonium (3.5%), fragrance mix II (3.2%), and formaldehyde (3.2%). Myroxylon pereirae reaction prevalence increased from 5% in 2010 to 9% in 2017 and that for methyldibromo glutaronitrile from 3.1% to 4.6%. MCI/MI and MI reactions decreased in prevalence after 2014. Nickel reaction prevalence decreased among females aged 10 to 19 years.

CONCLUSIONS

Nickel remains the most common sensitizing agent, with reaction prevalence decreasing among females younger than 20 years. The changes in MCI/MI and MI reaction prevalence mirrored those in Europe. The register can reveal changes in contact allergy prevalence over time among patients patch tested in Sweden.

Rational Design of Sustainable Liquid Microcapsules for Spontaneous Fragrance Encapsulation

The high volatility, water-immiscibility, and light/oxygen-sensitivity of most aroma compounds represent a challenge to their incorporation in liquid consumer products. Current encapsulation methods entail the use of petroleum-based materials, initiators, and crosslinkers as well as mixing, heating, and purification steps. Hence, more efficient and eco-friendly approaches to encapsulation must be sought. Herein, we propose a simple method by making use of a pre-formed amphiphilic polymer and employing the Hansen Solubility Parameters approach to determine which fragrances could be encapsulated by spontaneous coacervation in water. The coacervates do not precipitate as solids but they remain suspended as colloidally stable liquid microcapsules, as demonstrated by fluorescence correlation spectroscopy. The effective encapsulation of fragrance is proven through confocal Raman spectroscopy, while the structure of the capsules is investigated by means of cryo FIB/SEM, confocal laser scanning microscopy, and small-angle X-ray scattering.

Limonene Emissions: Do Different Types Have Different Biological Effects?

Limonene is one of the most abundant pollutants indoors, and it contributes to the formation of additional pollutants, such as formaldehyde and photochemical smog. Limonene is commonly used in fragranced consumer products, such as cleaning supplies and air fresheners, which have also been associated with health problems. Limonene can exist in different enantiomeric forms (R-limonene and S-limonene) and be derived from different sources. However, little is known about whether different forms and sources of limonene may have different effects. This research explored whether different types of limonene, at the same concentrations, could elicit different biological effects. To investigate this question, the study employed Aedes aegypti mosquitoes, which have sophisticated olfactory abilities, in olfactometer tests of repellency/attraction. The results indicate that a synthetic source of R-limonene is more repellent than a natural source of R-limonene. In addition, synthetic sources of both R-limonene and S-limonene are not significantly different in repellency. These findings can contribute to our understanding and further exploration of the effects of a common fragrance compound on air quality and health.

Backhousia citriodora F. Muell. (Lemon Myrtle), an Unrivalled Source of Citral

Lemon oils are amongst the highest volume and most frequently traded of the flavor and fragrance essential oils. Citronellal and citral are considered the key components responsible for the lemon note with citral (neral + geranial) preferred. Of the myriad of sources of citral, the Australian myrtaceous tree, Lemon Myrtle, Backhousia citriodora F. Muell. (Myrtaceae), is considered superior. This review examines the history, the natural occurrence, the cultivation, the taxonomy, the chemistry, the biological activity, the toxicology, the standardisation and the commercialisation of Backhousia citriodora especially in relation to its essential oil.

[Advances in the microbial synthesis of aromatic fragrance molecules]

Aromatic compounds make up a large part of fragrances and are traditionally produced by chemical synthesis and direct extraction from plants. Chemical synthesis depends on petroleum resources and has disadvantages such as causing environment pollutions and harsh reaction conditions. Due to the low content of aromatic compounds in plants and the low yield of direct extraction, plant extractions require large amounts of plant resources that occupy arable land. In recent years, with the development of metabolic engineering and synthetic biology, microbial synthesis of aromatic compounds from renewable resources has become a promising alternative approach to traditional methods. This review describes the research progress on the synthesis of aromatic fragrances by model microorganisms such as Escherichia coli or yeast, including the synthesis of vanillin through shikimic acid pathway and the synthesis of raspberry ketone through polyketide pathway. Moreover, this review highlights the elucidation of native biosynthesis pathways, the construction of synthetic pathways and metabolic regulation for the production of aromatic fragrances by microbial fermentation.

Estimating person-to-person variability in VOC emissions from personal care products used during showering

An increasing fraction of volatile organic compounds (VOC) emissions come from the domestic use of solvents, contained within myriad commonplace consumer products. Emission rates are often poorly characterized and depend significantly on individual behavior and specific product formulation and usage. Time-concentration profiles of volatile organic compounds (VOCs) arising from the use of a representative selection of personal care products (PCPs) during showering are generated, and person-to-person variability in emissions calculated. A panel of 18 participants used a standardized set of products, dosages, and application times during showering in a controlled indoor bathroom setting. Proton transfer mass spectrometry was used to measure the in-room VOC evolution of limonene (representing the sum of monoterpenes), benzyl alcohol, and ethanol. The release of VOCs had reproducible patterns between users, but noticeable variations in absolute peak concentrations, despite identical amounts of material being used. The amounts of VOC emitted to air for one showering activity were as follows: limonene (1.77 mg ± 42%), benzyl alcohol (1.07 mg ± 41%), and ethanol (0.33 mg ± 78%). Real-world emissions to air were between 1.3 and 11 times lower than bottom-up estimates based on dynamic headspace measurements of product emissions rates, likely a result of PCPs being washed away before VOC evaporation could occur.

Improved Bioproduction of 1-Octanol Using Engineered Synechocystis sp. PCC 6803

1-Octanol has gained interest as a chemical precursor for both high and low value commodities including fuel, solvents, surfactants, and fragrances. By harnessing the power from sunlight and CO₂ as carbon source, cyanobacteria has recently been engineered for renewable production of 1-octanol. The productivity, however, remained low. In the present work, we report efforts to further improve the 1-octanol productivity. Different N-terminal truncations were evaluated on three thioesterases from different plant species, resulting in several candidate thioesterases with improved activity and selectivity toward octanoyl-ACP. The structure/function trials suggest that current knowledge and/or state-of-the art computational tools are insufficient to determine the most appropriate cleavage site for thioesterases in Synechocystis. Additionally, by tuning the inducer concentration and light intensity, we further improved the 1-octanol productivity, reaching up to 35% (w/w) carbon partitioning and a titer of 526 ± 5 mg/L 1-octanol in 12 days. Long-term cultivation experiments demonstrated that the improved strain can be stably maintained for at least 30 days and/or over ten times serial dilution. Surprisingly, the improved strain was genetically stable in contrast to earlier strains having lower productivity (and hence a reduced chance of reaching toxic product concentrations). Altogether, improved enzymes and environmental conditions (e.g., inducer concentration and light intensity) substantially increased the 1-octanol productivity. When cultured under continuous conditions, the bioproduction system reached an accumulative titer of >3.5 g/L 1-octanol over close to 180 days.

Detection of Reproducible Major Effect QTL for Petal Traits in Garden Roses

The detection of QTL by association genetics depends on the genetic architecture of the trait under study, the size and structure of the investigated population and the availability of phenotypic and marker data of sufficient quality and quantity. In roses, we previously demonstrated that major QTL could already be detected in small association panels. In this study, we analyzed petal number, petal size and fragrance in a small panel of 95 mostly tetraploid garden rose genotypes. After genotyping the panel with the 68 K Axiom WagRhSNP chip we detected major QTL for all three traits. Each trait was significantly influenced by several genomic regions. Some of the QTL span genomic regions that comprise several candidate genes. Selected markers from some of these regions were converted into KASP markers and were validated in independent populations of up to 282 garden rose genotypes. These markers demonstrate the robustness of the detected effects independent of the set of genotypes analyzed. Furthermore, the markers can serve as tools for marker-assisted breeding in garden roses. Over an extended timeframe, they may be used as a starting point for the isolation of the genes underlying the QTL.

Biotechnological applications of mammalian odorant-binding proteins

The olfactory system of mammals allows the detection and discrimination of thousands of odors from the environment. In mammals, odorant-binding proteins (OBPs) are considered responsible to carry odorant molecules across the aqueous nasal mucus to the olfactory receptors (ORs). The three-dimensional structure of these proteins presents eight antiparallel β-sheets and a short α-helical segment close to the C terminus, typical of the lipocalins family. The great ability of OBPs to bind differentiated ligand molecules has driven the research to understand the mechanisms underlying the OBP function in nature and the development of advanced biotechnological applications. This review describes the role of mammalian OBPs in the olfactory perception, highlighting the influence of several key parameters (amino acids, temperature, ionic strength, and pH) in the formation of the OBP/ligand complex. The information from the literature regarding OBP structure, affinity, the strength of binding, and stability inspiring the development of several applications herein detailed.

Sensitization to benzyl salicylate and other allergens in patients with frontal fibrosing alopecia

BACKGROUND

Contact sensitization is frequent among patients with frontal fibrosing alopecia (FFA) (52%-76%).

OBJECTIVE

To evaluate the frequency of sensitization/photosensitization in an FFA population.

METHODS

A population of FFA patients were patch tested (Spanish Contact Dermatitis Research Group [GEIDAC] baseline; cosmetic and fragrance series), and photopatch tested (sunscreen series).

RESULTS

Thirty-six patients (mean age: 64.6 years; 35/36: women) were studied. A history of dermatitis was recorded in 69.4% (frequently involving the face). Overall, 80.5% patients showed positive patch-test reactions. The most frequently positive allergens were nickel sulfate (25%), benzyl salicylate (22%), gallates (16.6%), propolis (16.6%), and limonene hydroperoxides (13.8%). Benzyl salicylate was likely relevant to the dermatitis (labeled on personal care products and most patients reporting clinical improvement with allergen avoidance). Patch tests with sunscreens showed positive reactions to 11 materials (five patients). Photopatch tests were positive in one case.

CONCLUSION

We speculate a possible relationship between sensitization to benzyl salicylate and FFA. Hypothetically, the most likely explanation is that sensitization to benzyl salicylate involving FFA patients is a consequence of increased exposure to it. It is unclear whether allergen avoidance may impact the prognosis of alopecia. However, it seems to significantly improve the patients´ quality of life by lessening dermatitis and pruritus.

Preparation of pH-Responsive Dual-Compartmental Microcapsules via Pickering Emulsion and Their Application in Multifunctional Textiles

Currently, smart and functional textiles have attracted increasing attention for the research on their application in various fields. In this paper, perfluorooctyltriethoxysilane (FAS13)-loaded silica nanocapsules taken as the Pickering emulsifier was applied to stabilize O/W emulsion for obtaining pH-responsive dual-compartmental microcapsules which show a strawberry-like structure with jasmine essence as the core and pH-responsive polymers and silica nanocapsules as the shell. These microcapsules could endow it with multifunctions by functionalizing the fabric, while the preparation and functionalization process is effortless and environmental friendly. Not only does the treated fabric demonstrate the self-healing superhydrophobicity and ultraviolet (UV) resistance because of the hydrophobic FAS13 getting loaded into silica nanocapsules and the surface modification of UV absorbent, it is also capable of the pH control jasmine essence-releasing performance, which allows over 40% of the fragrance to be preserved for three months through the controlled release of jasmine essence from the microcapsules.

Outcomes of Visual Self-Expression in Virtual Reality on Psychosocial Well-Being With the Inclusion of a Fragrance Stimulus: A Pilot Mixed-Methods Study

Aims

In this pilot mixed-methods study, we examined the participants experiences of engaging in virtual drawing tasks and the impact of an olfactory stimulus (calming fragrance blend) on outcomes of affect, stress, self-efficacy, anxiety, creative agency, and well-being (satisfaction with life).

Methods

This study used a parallel mixed-methods, simple block randomization design. The study participants included 24 healthy adults aged 18 to 54 years, including 18 women and six men. The participants completed two 1-h immersive virtual art making sessions and were randomly assigned to receive either a fragrance or a non-fragrance condition for the first session. Quantitative (standardized self-report measures) and qualitative (open-ended survey responses and virtual artwork) datasets were collected concurrently and integrated during data analysis.

Results

The quantitative results indicated that the fragrance condition demonstrated a significant reduction in negative affect (e.g., feeling hostile, jittery, upset, distressed, etc.), namely, reduced feelings of negativity when compared to the non-fragrance condition. A trend toward improvement in self-efficacy was also seen in the fragrance condition. No significant changes were found for fragrance or non-fragrance conditions for positive affect, anxiety, and creative agency. The qualitative findings included five themes related to art making experiences in virtual reality in both conditions: fun and joy; novelty of virtual media, experimentation, and play; relaxation and calm; learning curve; and physical discomfort and disorientation. Four themes were identified for virtual art content and visual qualities: nature imagery, references to memories and personal symbols, fantasy and play within imagery, and depiction of everyday objects.

Conclusions

Overall, the participants reported positive responses to the novel virtual art making experiences which were further heightened by the inclusion of the fragrance stimulus for negative affect. These preliminary findings need to be replicated with larger sample sizes to confirm the outcomes and the trends that were seen in this pilot study. Further research is recommended to examine the differences between experiences of virtual and traditional art media and to examine different olfactory stimuli promoting focus and concentration.

Chemistry, Sustainability and Naturality of Perfumery Biotech Ingredients

White biotechnology has emerged in biochemical manufacturing processes to deliver perfumery ingredients satisfying interests of the society for natural, eco-responsible, and sustainable materials. As a result, an intense R&D activity has taken place on these subjects, resulting in both scientific publications and patent applications reporting combinations of state-of-the-art approaches in biocatalysis, metabolic engineering, synthetic biology, biosynthesis elucidation, gene edition and cloning, and analytical chemistry. In this Minireview, a smelly selection of novel biotechnological processes and ingredients from a scientific articles and patents survey covering the last 6 years is presented and analysed in terms of chemistry, sustainability and naturality. Classification has been made between metabolic engineering on one side, allowing either biotechnological synthesis of essential oil surrogates or single molecule ingredients, and on the other side the optimisation of properties of natural complex substances by specific and selective enzymatic modifications of their chemical composition.

Effect of mesoporous silica nanoparticles-based nano-fragrance on the central nervous system

Fragrances are widely used in our daily lives and can make us feel happy. However, traditional aromatic products release fragrance quickly and have a strong aroma. This not only worsens our scenting experience, but also severely shortens the useful life of fragrance products. In this study, nano-fragrances based on mesoporous silica nanoparticles with great encapsulation efficiency and slow-release function were designed and prepared. In addition, this nano-fragrances are applied to wallpapers. Open field tests showed that this nano-fragrance had significant stress relief and anti-depressant effects.

Chitosan-based nanofragrance with antibacterial function applied to wallpaper

Adding fragrances to the wallpaper can optimize our living environment and office environment. However, the poor adhesion and rapid release of fragrances on wallpapers have limited their application. In this study, vanillin was encapsulated in particles based on chitosan and poly(lactic-co-glycolic acid), thereby achieving a slow release of the fragrance. In addition, due to the addition of chitosan, the adhesion of the fragrance on the wallpaper was enhanced, and the wallpaper was given antibacterial properties.

Creation and Acceptability of a Fragrance with a Characteristic Tawny Port Wine-Like Aroma

Port wine, the ultimate expression of the Demarcated Douro Region’s (DDR’s) history, cultural heritage experience, and art, was born on the slopes of the Douro river valley. One of the categories of port wine that is much appreciated by consumers is tawny port wine. This category of wine is aged in oak barrels and is characterized by oxidative aromas. Thus, the objective of the present work was to develop a tawny port wine-like fragrance, the first according to the literature. First, a group of 50 consumers in an informal environment and using two samples of tawny port wine (13 and over 40 years of aging in wood, respectively) was asked about the pleasantness of the aromas and the possible use of a tawny port wine-like fragrance. More than 80% of the group stated that they would use the fragrance as an air freshener (scent marketing in restaurants) or even in personal-use products. Then, a sensory panel of 12 participants (3 men and 9 women) was trained, and using tawny port wines of various brands and ages, the panel selected six descriptors to aromatically describe this type of wine. For the descriptors, seven aromatic chemical compounds were appointed and fragrances were developed with contributions from the panel. After several sessions with the sensory panel, three fragrances were selected, created with only three of the aromatic compounds initially used: benzaldehyde, sotolon, and vanillin. Afterward, the levels of consumer acceptability (150 individuals) for the three developed fragrances were studied and the optimization of their sensory characteristics was evaluated using a “just about right” (JAR) scale. It was found that male individuals assigned higher ratings and preferred fragrance 5.1, which was a statistically significant result (p < 0.001). Regarding age, Tukey’s test showed significant differences in responses to fragrance 5.3 between young adults and middle-aged adults (p = 0.018). Young adults gave higher scores for this fragrance. Additionally, consumers considered that the intensity of the tawny port wine aroma was ideal in the three fragrances, however, the fragrance color was not very intense. The use of the three compounds (benzaldehyde, sotolon, and vanillin) seems to be enough to obtain a tawny port wine-like fragrance.

Ambrafuran (AmbroxTM) Synthesis from Natural Plant Product Precursors

Ambergris, an excretion product of sperm whales, has been a valued agent in the formulation of perfumes. The composition of ambergris consists of two major components: 40–46% cholestanol type steroids and approximately 25–45% of a triterpenoid known as ambrein. Ambergris undergoes oxidative decomposition in the environment to result in odorous compounds, such as ambraoxide, methylambraoxide, and ambracetal. Its oxidized form, ambrafuran (IUPAC name: 3a,6,6,9a-tetramethyl-2,4,5,5a,7,8,9,9b-octahydro-1H-benzo[e][1]benzofuran), is a terpene furan with a pleasant odor and unique olfactive and fixative properties. The current state of the fragrance industry uses ambrafuran materials entirely from synthetic or semisynthetic sources. However, natural compounds with the potential to be converted to ambergris-like odorants have been extracted from several different types of plants. Here we review plant terpenoids suitable as starting materials for the semisyntheses of ambrafuran or intermediates, such as ambradiol, that can be used in biocatalytic transformations to yield ambrafuran.

Olfaction Modulates Inter-Subject Correlation of Neural Responses

Odors can be powerful stimulants. It is well-established that odors provide strong cues for recall of locations, people and events. The effects of specific scents on other cognitive functions are less well-established. We hypothesized that scents with different odor qualities will have a different effect on attention. To assess attention, we used Inter-Subject Correlation of the EEG because this metric is strongly modulated by attentional engagement with natural audiovisual stimuli. We predicted that scents known to be "energizing" would increase Inter-Subject Correlation during watching of videos as compared to "calming" scents. In a first experiment, we confirmed this for eucalyptol and linalool while participants watched animated autobiographical narratives. The result was replicated in a second experiment, but did not generalize to limonene, also considered an "energizing" odorant. In a third, double-blind experiment, we tested a battery of scents including single molecules, as well as mixtures, as participants watched various short video clips. We found a varying effect of odor on Inter-Subject Correlation across the various scents. This study provides a basis for reliably and reproducibly assessing effects of odors on brain activity. Future research is needed to further explore the effect of scent-based up-modulation in engagement on learning and memory performance. Educators, product developers and fragrance brands might also benefit from such objective neurophysiological measures.

Tuning the Encapsulation of Simple Fragrances with an Amphiphilic Graft Copolymer

The encapsulation of poorly water-soluble compounds such as perfumes, flavors, and bioactive molecules is a key step in the formulation of a large variety of consumer products in the fields of household care and personal care. We study the encapsulation ability of an amphiphilic poly(ethylene glycol)-graft-poly(vinyl acetate) (PEG-g-PVAc) graft copolymer, extending the focus to the entire phase diagram of polymer/perfume/water systems with three common natural fragrances. The three perfume molecules (2-phenyl ethanol, L-carvone, and α-pinene) possess different water affinities, as expressed by their octanol/water partition coefficients. The investigation of the polymorphism of PEG-g-PVAc in these systems is carried out by means of dynamic light scattering, small-angle X-ray scattering, NMR spectroscopy, and confocal laser scanning microscopy. The results presented here demonstrate that the choice of fragrance can dramatically affect the supramolecular structures formed by the polymer in aqueous solution, with important consequences on formulations of industrial interest such as the demixing of complex perfume blends when one or more of the components have no chemical affinity for any of the polymer blocks.

In vitro evaluation of the metabolic stability of nine fragrance chemicals in trout and human hepatocytes

In vitro metabolic stability of nine fragrance chemicals: p-tolyl acetate, cashmeran, ethylene brassylate, celestolide, galaxolide, traseolide, ambretone, tonalide and pentadecanolide, was evaluated in trout and human hepatocytes. The compounds were incubated with trout hepatocytes at 12°C and human hepatocytes at 37°C. Quantification of compound disappearance with time was performed using gas chromatography/mass spectrometry. in vivo hepatic intrinsic clearance values were calculated from the in vitro data. Significant metabolism was observed with trout hepatocytes for five of the nine fragrance chemicals, while all nine were metabolized significantly with human hepatocytes. Previously published models were used to examine expected bioaccumulation and persistence in whole organisms. Calculated half-lives due to metabolism of the nine chemicals are significantly shorter for humans than trout: <1 hour and <1 day, respectively. For all chemicals with demonstrated hepatic metabolism, the models indicate a lack of accumulation. For those where metabolism was demonstrated in trout, calculated bioconcentration factors would not be classified as bioaccumulative under prevailing regulatory systems.