Extrinsic ageing in the human skin is associated with alterations in the expression of hyaluronic acid and its metabolizing enzymes

Melatonin hyalurosomes as a powerful antioxidant for combating skin damage induced by UV radiation

Extrinsic skin aging is caused by chronic skin photodamage. The present study aims to inspect the role of nanoencapsulation of melatonin (MEL) in hyalurosomes in combating UVB-induced skin damage to take advantage of the hydrating penetration enhancing and antiaging effects of hyaluronic acid along with the powerful antioxidant effects of MEL. Measurement of particle size, zeta potential, encapsulation efficiency and in vitro MEL release were carried out. The in vivo photoprotective effects of MEL were tested in rats. A histopathological examination was conducted, and antioxidant and anti-inflammatory markers were measured along with estimating the expression of P38 MAPK, P-ERK and P-JNK. Particle size and zeta potential of MEL hyalurosomes were 285.9 nm and -26.3 mV with 95% entrapment efficiency and provided a sustained release profile for 48h. In vivo, results revealed the superior effect of MEL hyalurosomes in protecting skin against UVB-induced damage and reducing the levels of inflammatory mediators like TNF-α and IL6 compared with MEL suspension. However, they had a prominent role in increasing the levels of antioxidants. These findings may be accredited to the effect of nanoencapsulation in enhancing skin penetration and deposition of MEL besides the effect of hyaluronic acid as a powerful antiaging tool.

Epigenetics in Skin Homeostasis and Ageing

The skin, the largest organ of the human body, plays numerous essential roles, including protection against environmental hazards and the regulation of body temperature. The processes of skin homeostasis and ageing are complex and influenced by many factors, with epigenetic mechanisms being particularly significant. Epigenetics refers to the regulation of gene expression without altering the underlying DNA sequence. The dynamic nature of the skin, characterized by constant cellular turnover and responsiveness to environmental stimuli, requires precise gene activity control. This control is largely mediated by epigenetic modifications such as DNA methylation, histone modification, and regulation by non-coding RNAs. The present review endeavours to provide a comprehensive exploration and elucidation of the role of epigenetic mechanisms in regulating skin homeostasis and ageing. By integrating our current knowledge of epigenetic modifications with the latest advancements in dermatological research, we can gain a deeper comprehension of the complex regulatory networks that govern skin biology. Understanding these mechanisms also presents promising avenues for therapeutic interventions aimed at improving skin health and mitigating age-related skin conditions.

Clinical Efficacy in Skin Hydration and Reducing Wrinkles of Nanoemulsions Containing Macadamia integrifolia Seed Oil

This study aimed to assess natural oils for their antioxidant and anti-hyaluronidase properties and select the most effective candidate for development into nanoemulsions (NE) for clinical evaluations. The oils were assessed using 2,2'-azino-bis(3-ethylbenzothiazoline-6-sulfonic acid (ABTS•+) and ferric thiocyanate assays for antioxidant properties and an enzyme-substrate reaction assay for anti-hyaluronidase activity. The most potent oil was formulated into conventional emulsions (CE) and NE, which were characterized and evaluated for their stability, both in accelerated and long-term conditions. The irritation potential was assessed using both the hen's eggs chorioallantoic membrane test and a clinical trial. Skin hydration enhancement and skin wrinkle reduction efficacy were clinically assessed. Macadamia integrifolia oil exhibited significant potency as an ABTS•+ radical scavenger, lipid peroxidation inhibitor, and hyaluronidase inhibitor (p < 0.05). Both the CE and NE, comprising 15% w/w oil, 5% w/w Tween® 80 and Span® 80, and 80% w/w DI water, were found to be optimal. NE with an internal droplet size of 112.4 ± 0.8 nm, polydispersity index of 0.17 ± 0.01, and zeta potential of -31.5 ± 1.0 mV, had good stability and induced no irritation. Both CE and NE enhanced skin hydration and reduced skin wrinkles in human volunteers, while NE was outstanding in skin hydration enhancement.

Intradermal Injection of Hybrid Complexes of High- and Low-Molecular-Weight Hyaluronan: Where Do We Stand and Where Are We Headed in Regenerative Medicine?

Hyaluronic acid (HA) is a remarkably multifaceted biomacromolecule, playing a role in regulating myriad biological processes such as wound healing, tissue regeneration, anti-inflammation, and immunomodulation. Crosslinked high- and low-molecular-weight hyaluronic acid hydrogels achieve higher molar concentrations, display slower degradation, and allow optimal tissue product diffusion, while harnessing the synergistic contribution of different-molecular-weight hyaluronans. A recent innovation in the world of hyaluronic acid synthesis is represented by NAHYCO® Hybrid Technology, a thermal process leading to hybrid cooperative hyaluronic acid complexes (HCC). This review summarizes the current literature on the in vitro studies and in vivo applications of HCC, from facial and body rejuvenation to future perspectives in skin wound healing, dermatology, and genitourinary pathologies.

Skin rejuvenation effect of the combined PDLLA and non cross-linked hyaluronic acid: A preliminary study

BACKGROUND

Skin aging is characterized by wrinkles, rough skin texture, pigmentation, facial erythema, and telangiectasia through structural and functional changes in the epidermis and dermis. Recently, injectable poly(D, L-lactic acid), a biodegradable polymer, has been used widely for skin rejuvenation.

AIMS

This study aims to assess the efficacy and safety of injectable dermal poly D, L-lactic acid) for skin rejuvenation.

PATIENTS/METHODS

A total of 16 patients who desired skin rejuvenation were included. All participants received two or three procedure sessions with a 4 weeks interval between sessions. Clinical and three-dimensional images at baseline, before each procedural session, and follow-up visits were obtained. Therapeutic effects were assessed by evaluating signs of aging skin and overall improvement by dermatologists and patients. Histologic examinations with special stains were performed on the posterior auricular areas of consenting patients at baseline and follow-up visits after injecting poly D L-lactic acid into the postauricular area as in the face.

RESULTS

Overall, statistically significant differences were observed in all signs of aging skin, such as fine wrinkles, skin texture, irregular pigmentation, telangiectasia, and facial erythema before and after treatments. Half (50%) of patients responded that there was more than 50% overall improvement. There were no severe adverse events. Histologic examination demonstrated increases in collagen and elastic fibers in the dermis.

CONCLUSIONS

Results of this preliminary study suggest that injectable dermal poly D, L-lactic acid can significantly affect skin rejuvenation without causing any serious adverse events.

Self-assembled hyaluronic acid nanoparticles for the topical treatment of inflammatory skin diseases: Beyond drug carriers

Inflammatory skin diseases represent a significant health concern, affecting approximately 20-25% of the global population. These conditions not only reduce an individual's quality of life but also impose a huge burden on both humanity and society. However, addressing these challenges is hindered by their chronic nature, insufficient therapeutic effectiveness, and the propensity for recurrence and adverse side effects. Hyaluronic acid (HA) has emerged as a potential solution to these barriers, owing to its excellent attributes such as biocompatibility, non-toxicity, and targeted drug delivery. However, its practical application has been limited because endogenous hyaluronidase (HYAL) rapidly degrades HA in inflamed skin thus reducing its ability to penetrate deep into the skin. Interestingly, recent research has expanded the role of self-assembled HA-nanoparticles (HA-NPs) beyond drug carriers; they are resistant to HYAL, thereby enabling deep skin penetration, and possess inherent anti-inflammatory properties. Moreover, these abilities can be fine-tuned depending on the conditions during particle synthesis. Additionally, their role as a drug delivery system holds potential for use as a multi-target drug or hybrid drug. In conclusion, this review aims to specifically introduce and highlight the emerging potential of HA-NPs as a topical treatment for inflammatory skin conditions.

The hyaluronan metabolism in the UV-irradiated human epidermis and the relevance of in vitro epidermal models

Exposure to the sun affects the skin and may eventually result in UV-induced skin damage. It is generally known that hyaluronan (HA) is one of the main structural and functional components of the skin. However, UV-related changes in the HA metabolism in the skin have not yet been elucidated. Using qRT-PCR, confocal microscopy and LC-MS/MS we compared the naturally sun-exposed (SE), sun-protected, experimentally repeatedly UVA + UVB-exposed and acutely (once) UVA + UVB irradiated skin of Caucasian women. The epidermis was harvested by means of suction blistering 24 h after the acute irradiation. In addition, the epidermis was compared with a UV-irradiated in vitro reconstituted 3D epidermis (EpiDerm) and an in vitro 2D culture of normal human keratinocytes (NHEK). The amount of HA was found to be statistically significantly enhanced in the acutely irradiated epidermis. The acute UV evinced the upregulation of HA synthases (HAS2 and HAS3), hyaluronidases (HYAL2 and HYAL3), Cluster of differentiation 44 (CD44), and Cell Migration Inducing Proteins (CEMIP and CEMIP2), while only certain changes were recapitulated in the 3D epidermis. For the first time, we demonstrated the enhanced gene and protein expression of CEMIP and CEMIP2 following UV irradiation in the human epidermis. The data suggest that the HA metabolism is affected by UV in the irradiated epidermis and that the response can be modulated by the underlying dermis.

Combined Bipolar Radiofrequency and Non-Crosslinked Hyaluronic Acid Mesotherapy Protocol to Improve Skin Appearance and Epidermal Barrier Function: A Pilot Study

BACKGROUND

Age-associated changes in epidermal hydration, pigmentation, thickness and cell renewal influence skin appearance and can lead to laxity, dryness and poor skin tone. The aim of this pilot study was to assess the synergistic effects of a new bipolar radiofrequency plus non-crosslinked hyaluronic acid (HA) mesotherapy protocol compared with radiofrequency alone on skin appearance and markers of epidermal function.

METHODS

This prospective, single-center, split-face pilot study recruited women aged 25-65 years with dryness and laxity of the facial skin defined by a trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL) value of ≥26 g/m2/h. Subjects were treated with a bipolar radiofrequency device on both sides of the face. This was immediately followed by needle hyaluronic acid (HA) treatment on one side of the face with 2.5 mL of a non-crosslinked HA. Photographic documentation, analysis of epidermal barrier function parameters, and high frequency (HF) ultrasound analysis were performed prior to treatment and at 28 days.

RESULTS

Twenty female subjects with a mean age of 46 (range 29 to 54) years and dry and lax facial skin were included. TEWL was reduced and skin hydration improved to a greater extent with the combined radiofrequency plus mesotherapy protocol compared with radiofrequency alone (-5.8% vs. +3.9% and +23.1% vs. +1.0%, respectively). The combined protocol was also associated with greater improvements in melanin (-7.5% vs. -1.5%) and erythema values (-7.2% vs. +3.0%), respectively. Ultrasound measures of epidermal thickness and epidermal density were greater after the combined protocol compared with radiofrequency alone (12.0% vs. 5.6% and 57.7% vs. 7.1%, respectively). Both treatments were well-tolerated.

CONCLUSIONS

The combined bipolar radiofrequency and HA mesotherapy protocol provided greater improvements in skin hydration, firmness and tone compared with radiofrequency alone. The combination treatment was also associated with greater epidermal thickness and density and increased keratinocyte differentiation suggesting a synergistic effect of both treatments on epidermal homeostasis and barrier function. Both treatments were well-tolerated and led to improvements in facial appearance.

A Novel Hyaluronic Acid Matrix Ingredient with Regenerative, Anti-Aging and Antioxidant Capacity

Hyaluronic acid (HA) and proteoglycans (such as dermatan sulphate (DS) and chondroitin sulphate (CS)) are the main components of the extracellular matrix of the skin, along with collagen and elastin. These components decrease with age, which implies a loss of skin moisture causing wrinkles, sagging and aging. Currently, the external and internal administration of effective ingredients that can reach the epidermis and dermis is the main alternative for combating skin aging. The objective of this work was to extract, characterise and evaluate the potential of an HA matrix ingredient to support anti-aging. The HA matrix was isolated and purified from rooster comb and characterised physicochemically and molecularly. In addition, its regenerative, anti-aging and antioxidant potential and intestinal absorption were evaluated. The results show that the HA matrix is composed of 67% HA, with an average molecular weight of 1.3 MDa; 12% sulphated glycosaminoglycans, including DS and CS; 17% protein, including collagen (10.4%); and water. The in vitro evaluation of the HA matrix's biological activity showed regenerative properties in both fibroblasts and keratinocytes, as well as moisturising, anti-aging and antioxidant effects. Furthermore, the results suggest that the HA matrix could be absorbed in the intestine, implying a potential oral as well as topical use for skin care, either as an ingredient in a nutraceutical or a cosmetic product.

The Damaging Effects of Long UVA (UVA1) Rays: A Major Challenge to Preserve Skin Health and Integrity

Within solar ultraviolet (UV) light, the longest UVA1 wavelengths, with significant and relatively constant levels all year round and large penetration properties, produce effects in all cutaneous layers. Their effects, mediated by numerous endogenous chromophores, primarily involve the generation of reactive oxygen species (ROS). The resulting oxidative stress is the major mode of action of UVA1, responsible for lipid peroxidation, protein carbonylation, DNA lesions and subsequent intracellular signaling cascades. These molecular changes lead to mutations, apoptosis, dermis remodeling, inflammatory reactions and abnormal immune responses. The altered biological functions contribute to clinical consequences such as hyperpigmentation, inflammation, photoimmunosuppression, sun allergies, photoaging and photocancers. Such harmful impacts have also been reported after the use of UVA1 phototherapy or tanning beds. Furthermore, other external aggressors, such as pollutants and visible light (Vis), were shown to induce independent, cumulative and synergistic effects with UVA1 rays. In this review, we synthetize the biological and clinical effects of UVA1 and the complementary effects of UVA1 with pollutants or Vis. The identified deleterious biological impact of UVA1 contributing to clinical consequences, combined with the predominance of UVA1 rays in solar UV radiation, constitute a solid rational for the need for a broad photoprotection, including UVA1 up to 400 nm.

The Impact of Hyaluronan on Tumor Progression in Cutaneous Melanoma

The incidence of cutaneous melanoma is rapidly increasing worldwide. Cutaneous melanoma is an aggressive type of skin cancer, which originates from malignant transformation of pigment producing melanocytes. The main risk factor for melanoma is ultraviolet (UV) radiation, and thus it often arises from highly sun-exposed skin areas and is characterized by a high mutational burden. In addition to melanoma-associated mutations such as BRAF, NRAS, PTEN and cell cycle regulators, the expansion of melanoma is affected by the extracellular matrix surrounding the tumor together with immune cells. In the early phases of the disease, hyaluronan is the major matrix component in cutaneous melanoma microenvironment. It is a high-molecular weight polysaccharide involved in several physiological and pathological processes. Hyaluronan is involved in the inflammatory reactions associated with UV radiation but its role in melanomagenesis is still unclear. Although abundant hyaluronan surrounds epidermal and dermal cells in normal skin and benign nevi, its content is further elevated in dysplastic lesions and local tumors. At this stage hyaluronan matrix may act as a protective barrier against melanoma progression, or alternatively against immune cell attack. While in advanced melanoma, the content of hyaluronan decreases due to altered synthesis and degradation, and this correlates with poor prognosis. This review focuses on hyaluronan matrix in cutaneous melanoma and how the changes in hyaluronan metabolism affect the progression of melanoma.

An Overview of Soft Tissue Fillers for Cosmetic Dermatology: From Filling to Regenerative Medicine

Hyaluronic acid (HA)-based injectable filling agents are at the forefront of the current demand for noninvasive dermatological procedures for the correction of age-related soft tissue defects. The present review aims to summarize currently available HA-based products and critically appraise their differences in rheological nature and clinical application. Linear HA (LHA) gels may be supplemented with amino acids, lipoic acid, vitamins, nucleosides, or minerals for synergistic antiaging and antioxidant benefits (polycomponent LHA). HA hydrogels can be generated via chemical or physical crosslinking, which increases their elasticity and decreases viscosity. The performance of crosslinked fillers depends on HA concentration, degree of crosslinking, elastic modulus, cohesivity, and type of crosslinking agent employed. PEG-crosslinked LHA displays improved elasticity and resistance to degradation, and lower swelling rates as compared to BDDE-crosslinked LHA. Physical crosslinking stabilizes HA hydrogels without employing exogenous chemical compounds or altering hyaluronans’ natural molecular structure. Thermally stabilized hybrid cooperative HA complexes (HCC) are a formulation of high- and low-molecular-weight (H-HA and L-HA) hyaluronans, achieving high HA concentration, low viscosity with optimal tissue diffusion, and a duration comparable to weakly cross-linked gel. Our critical analysis evidences the importance of understanding different fillers’ properties to assist physicians in selecting the most appropriate filler for specific uses and for predictable and sustainable results.

Hyaluronan: A key player or just a bystander in skin photoaging?

Photoaged skin exhibits signs of inflammation, DNA damage and changes in morphology that are visible at the macroscopic and microscopic levels. Photoaging also affects the extracellular matrix (ECM) including hyaluronan (HA), the main polysaccharide component thereof. HA is a structurally simple but biologically complex molecule that serves as a water-retaining component and provides both a scaffold for a number of the proteins of the ECM and the ligand for cellular receptors. The study provides an overview of the literature concerning the changes in HA amount, size and metabolism, and the potential role of HA in photoaging. We also suggest novel HA contributions to photoaging based on our knowledge of the role of HA in other pathological processes, including the senescence and inflammation-triggered ECM reorganization. Moreover, we discuss potential direct or indirect intervention to mitigate photoaging that targets the hyaluronan metabolism, as well as supplementation.

Glycosaminoglycans: Sweet as Sugar Targets for Topical Skin Anti-Aging

Glycosaminoglycans (GAGs) are long, linear polysaccharides comprised of repeating disaccharide units with pleiotropic biological functions, with the non-sulfated GAG hyaluronic acid (HA), and sulfated GAGs dermatan sulfate, chondroitin sulfate, heparan sulfate, keratan sulfate, and to a lesser extent heparin all being expressed in skin. Their ability to regulate keratinocyte proliferation and differentiation, inflammatory processes and extracellular matrix composition and quality demonstrates their critical role in regulating skin physiology. Similarly, the water-binding properties of GAGs and structural qualities, particularly for HA, are crucial for maintaining proper skin form and hydration. The biological importance of GAGs, as well as extensive evidence that their properties and functions are altered in both chronological and extrinsic skin aging, makes them highly promising targets to improve cosmetic skin quality. Within the present review, we examine the cutaneous biological activity of GAGs alongside the protein complexes they form called proteoglycans and summarize the age-related changes of these molecules in skin. We also examine current topical interventional approaches to modulate GAGs for improved skin quality such as direct exogenous administration of GAGs, with a particular interest in strategies targeted at potentiating GAG levels in skin through either attenuating GAG degradation or increasing GAG production.

Proteomics and lipidomics reveal the protective mechanism of dietary n-3 PUFA supplementation for photoaging

Chronic ultraviolet radiation exposure could induce photoaging, and even carcinogenesis. Dietary omega-3 polyunsaturated fatty acid (n-3 PUFA) supplementation has proved to alleviate photoaging and cutaneous carcinoma. Although the exact mechanism remains poorly elucidated, accumulated evidence suggests that the alleviation effect of n-3 PUFA for photoaging is a multifactorial procession characterized by different pathways. Here, we performed a whole-genome proteomics and lipidomics analyses using a self-constructed photoaging mouse model with n-3 PUFA or n-6 PUFA supplementation. Significant alleviation of photoaging was observed, and a total of 88 differentially expressed proteins and 152 differentially expressed lipids were identified in mice with n-3 PUFA supplementation. We found that n-3 PUFA may alleviate photoaging by upregulating Hmmr (hyaluronic acid receptor) expression, which can decrease Mmp9 expression, reducing collagen degradation. As most proteins were associated with lipogenesis and lipid metabolism, we further analyzed the lipidomics data, finding that most triglycerides (93%) showed a significant increase in the n-3 PUFA supplementation group. Our proteomics and lipidomics results indicate that the protective mechanism of n-3 PUFA for photoaging is complicated. Furthermore, the effect of elevated triglycerides by n-3 PUFA supplementation in counteracting skin photoaging cannot be ignored, which will become a new prime target in anti-photoaging.

Treating Aging Changes of Facial Anatomical Layers with Hyaluronic Acid Fillers

The aging process affects every anatomical layer of the face. Improved knowledge of how aging occurs in each anatomical layer of the face has helped evolve the facial rejuvenation strategies with HA fillers. Understanding the age-related changes in the anatomical facial layers, including their time of onset and how the changes occur in the different tissue layers, an injector can provide much more targeted and refined HA filler treatments. As fillers’ use has increased, there has been a distinct shift away from procedures lifting the skin and SMAS. We can selectively target the anatomical facial layers with HA fillers for more refined and predictable outcomes. An extensive range of HA filler variants is now available. Each filler type is optimized and designed to be injected into specific tissue planes for the best results. Knowing the predictable aging changes in the different tissue layers of the face is crucial as this guides the optimum filler choice. Working knowledge of the individual characteristics of the numerous HA-based products allows for their effective placement in the correct layer. Familiarity with the correct HA product may also help to minimize the downtime and risk of adverse events.

Advantages of Hyaluronic Acid and Its Combination with Other Bioactive Ingredients in Cosmeceuticals

This study proposes a review on hyaluronic acid (HA) known as hyaluronan or hyaluronate and its derivates and their application in cosmetic formulations. HA is a glycosaminoglycan constituted from two disaccharides (N-acetylglucosamine and D-glucuronic acid), isolated initially from the vitreous humour of the eye, and subsequently discovered in different tissues or fluids (especially in the articular cartilage and the synovial fluid). It is ubiquitous in vertebrates, including humans, and it is involved in diverse biological processes, such as cell differentiation, embryological development, inflammation, wound healing, etc. HA has many qualities that recommend it over other substances used in skin regeneration, with moisturizing and anti-ageing effects. HA molecular weight influences its penetration into the skin and its biological activity. Considering that, nowadays, hyaluronic acid has a wide use and a multitude of applications (in ophthalmology, arthrology, pneumology, rhinology, aesthetic medicine, oncology, nutrition, and cosmetics), the present study describes the main aspects related to its use in cosmetology. The biological effect of HA on the skin level and its potential adverse effects are discussed. Some available cosmetic products containing HA have been identified from the brand portfolio of most known manufacturers and their composition was evaluated. Further, additional biological effects due to the other active ingredients (plant extracts, vitamins, amino acids, peptides, proteins, saccharides, probiotics, etc.) are presented, as well as a description of their possible toxic effects.

Pharmacogenomics of hyaluronic acid

Abstract.Introduction: Hyaluronic acid (hyaluronan, HA) has become the most popular tool for improving the skin condition during aging, correcting wrinkles and other cosmetic defects. Objective: Analysis of the results of studies that reflect the pharmacogenomics of the synthesis, degradation, and reception of HA. Materials and methods: We searched for full-text publications in Russian and English in the E-Library, PubMed, Springer, Clinical keys, Google Scholar databases, using keywords and combined word searches (hyaluronic acid, hyaluronan, synthesis, degradation, reception, receptor, genetics), over the past decade. In addition, the review included earlier publications of historical interest. Despite our comprehensive searches of these commonly used databases and search terms, it cannot be excluded that some publications may have been missed. Results: The lecture examines: the role of ha in normal and aging human; genes involved in the synthesis (HAS1, HAS2, HAS3), degradation (HYAL1, HYAL2, HYAL3) and reception of ha (CD44, HARE, RHAMM); as well as the expression of their encoded proteins and enzymes in the skin. Conclusion: Expanding our knowledge of the pharmacogenomics of endogenous ha and increasing the exogenous HA drugs (used in anti-aging therapy and medical cosmetology) on the pharmaceutical market requires taking into account individual, including genetically determined, characteristics of the body of each individual patient to ensure an optimal balance of effectiveness/safety of exogenous HA from the point of view of personalized medicine

Hyaluronan in skin wound healing: therapeutic applications

Hyaluronan is a vital constituent in effective skin wound healing. This polysaccharide is ubiquitous throughout the human body and has functional significance for tissue repair and remodelling. The importance of hyaluronan in the proliferative phase of healing is diverse, impacting on cell migration, proliferation, modification of the inflammatory response and on angiogenesis. As such, it holds therapeutic potential for a variety of clinical applications that range from facilitating effective wound healing to burns management and scarring. This overview of the multifaceted roles of hyaluronan considers its current applications to clinical practice in plastic surgery as well as the latest advances in research.

Peptide location fingerprinting reveals modification-associated biomarker candidates of ageing in human tissue proteomes

Although dysfunctional protein homeostasis (proteostasis) is a key factor in many age-related diseases, the untargeted identification of structurally modified proteins remains challenging. Peptide location fingerprinting is a proteomic analysis technique capable of identifying structural modification-associated differences in mass spectrometry (MS) data sets of complex biological samples. A new webtool (Manchester Peptide Location Fingerprinter), applied to photoaged and intrinsically aged skin proteomes, can relatively quantify peptides and map statistically significant differences to regions within protein structures. New photoageing biomarker candidates were identified in multiple pathways including extracellular matrix organisation (collagens and proteoglycans), protein synthesis and folding (ribosomal proteins and TRiC complex subunits), cornification (keratins) and hemidesmosome assembly (plectin and integrin α6β4). Crucially, peptide location fingerprinting uniquely identified 120 protein biomarker candidates in the dermis and 71 in the epidermis which were modified as a consequence of photoageing but did not differ significantly in relative abundance (measured by MS1 ion intensity). By applying peptide location fingerprinting to published MS data sets, (identifying biomarker candidates including collagen V and versican in ageing tendon) we demonstrate the potential of the MPLF webtool for biomarker discovery.

Daily photoprotection to prevent photoaging

BACKGROUND

Extrinsic skin aging or photoaging was previously thought to be almost exclusively due to solar ultraviolet (UV) radiation. However, recent literature has described other contributing factors and clarification is thus required as to what extent and what type of daily photoprotection is needed to mitigate extrinsic skin aging.

METHODS

We reviewed the existing scientific evidence on daily photoprotection, and specific requirements at the product level, to prevent extrinsic skin aging. We critically reviewed the existing evidence on potential ecological and toxicological risks which might be associated with daily photoprotection.

RESULTS

Evidence shows that broad protection against the entire solar range of UVB, UVA, UVA1, visible light, and short infrared (IRA) is required to prevent extrinsic aging. Other exposome factors, such as air pollution and smoking, also contribute to skin aging. Daily broad-spectrum sunscreen photoprotection should thus contain antioxidant ingredients for additional benefits against UV, IRA, and pollution-induced oxidative stress as well as anti-aging active ingredients to provide clinical benefits against skin aging signs, such as wrinkles and dark spots. Broad-spectrum sunscreen containing pigments, such as iron oxide, may be required for melasma prevention. There is no conclusive clinical evidence that daily sunscreen use is unsafe or that it compromises vitamin D synthesis.

CONCLUSION

Daily use of broad-spectrum sunscreen containing antioxidant and anti-aging active ingredients can effectively reduce extrinsic aging.

[Skin quality and ways to improve skin quality]

BACKGROUND

Skin quality has a significant impact on the perception of attractiveness. Procedures to improve skin quality, whose quality is assured, should have sufficiently documented scientific evidence of in vivo and in vitro efficacy and significant effects proven in studies.

OBJECTIVES

This paper will present findings from recent studies and experience of experts on skin quality and treatments to improve skin quality.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

A PubMed database search was conducted in February 2021 on the terms skin quality and minimally invasive skin quality improvement procedures. Two reviewers independently screened the titles, resulting in the selection of 30 papers.

RESULTS

Hyaluronic acid (HA) is the most commonly studied agent for skin rejuvenation treatments. The efficacy and safety of the superficially injected HA products are excellently proven on the basis of current data. According to these findings, they ensure an improvement of skin quality without significant volume changes. The skin is hydrated, its elasticity increased, the skin surface smoothened, the complexion (skin redness, glow) improved and fine lines and wrinkles are reduced. They are injected intradermally and have a clinically proven effect duration of up to 12 months.

CONCLUSIONS

Hyaluronic acid is outstandingly suitable for deep hydration of the skin, and its effect is long-term and safe. Natural treatment results fulfil the needs of the patients and increase the patient-practitioner relation. Superficially injected HA products are currently the criterion standard to increase skin quality.

Basement Membrane Helps Maintain Epidermal Hyaluronan Content

Hyaluronan (HA) is the major glycosaminoglycan in the extracellular matrix of most mammalian tissues, including the epidermis. It is synthesized in epidermis, and mainly metabolized after transfer to the liver via lymphatic vessels in the dermis following its passage through the basement membrane (BM) at the dermal-epidermal junction. The aim of the present study was to investigate the influence of BM integrity on the level of HA in the epidermis. Epidermal HA content was decreased in sun-exposed skin of older subjects, whose BM structure was impaired, compared with sun-exposed young skin and sun-protected skin, in which BM integrity was well maintained. In an organotypic culture model of sun-exposed facial skin, epidermal HA was increased in the presence of inhibitors of BM-degrading matrix metalloproteinases and heparanase. In a skin equivalent model treated with these inhibitors, HA content was increased in the epidermis, but decreased in conditioned medium. These findings suggest that the BM at the dermal-epidermal junction plays an important role in maintaining epidermal HA levels.

The dark side of daylight: photoaging and the tumor microenvironment in melanoma progression

Continued thinning of the atmospheric ozone, which protects the earth from damaging ultraviolet radiation (UVR), will result in elevated levels of UVR reaching the earth's surface, leading to a drastic increase in the incidence of skin cancer. In addition to promoting carcinogenesis in skin cells, UVR is a potent extrinsic driver of age-related changes in the skin known as "photoaging." We are in the preliminary stages of understanding of the role of intrinsic aging in melanoma, and the tumor-permissive effects of photoaging on the skin microenvironment remain largely unexplored. In this Review, we provide an overview of the impact of UVR on the skin microenvironment, addressing changes that converge or diverge with those observed in intrinsic aging. Intrinsic and extrinsic aging promote phenotypic changes to skin cell populations that alter fundamental processes such as melanogenesis, extracellular matrix deposition, inflammation, and immune response. Given the relevance of these processes in cancer, we discuss how photoaging might render the skin microenvironment permissive to melanoma progression.

Zeaxanthin-Rich Extract from Superfood Lycium barbarum Selectively Modulates the Cellular Adhesion and MAPK Signaling in Melanoma versus Normal Skin Cells In Vitro

The concern for implementing bioactive nutraceuticals in antioxidant-related therapies is of great importance for skin homeostasis in benign or malignant diseases. In order to elucidate some novel insights of Lycium barbarum (Goji berry) activity on skin cells, the present study focused on its active compound zeaxanthin. By targeting the stemness markers CD44 and CD105, with deep implications in skin oxidative stress mechanisms, we revealed, for the first time, selectivity in zeaxanthin activity. When applied in vitro on BJ human fibroblast cell line versus the A375 malignant melanoma cells, despite the moderate cytotoxicity, the zeaxanthin-rich extracts 1 and 2 were able to downregulate significantly the CD44 and CD105 membrane expression and extracellular secretion in A375, and to upregulate them in BJ cells. At mechanistic level, the present study is the first to demonstrate that the zeaxanthin-rich Goji extracts are able to influence selectively the mitogen-activated protein kinases (MAPK): ERK, JNK and p38 in normal BJ versus tumor-derived A375 skin cells. These results point out towards the applications of zeaxanthin from L. barbarum as a cytoprotective agent in normal skin and raises questions about its use as an antitumor prodrug alone or in combination with standard therapy.

Smart Nanofibers with Natural Extracts Prevent Senescence Patterning in a Dynamic Cell Culture Model of Human Skin

Natural cosmetic products have recently re-emerged as a novel tool able to counteract skin aging and skin related damages. In addition, recently achieved progress in nanomedicine opens a novel approach yielding from combination of modern nanotechnology with traditional treatment for innovative pharmacotherapeutics. In the present study, we investigated the antiaging effect of a pretreatment with Myrtus communis natural extract combined with a polycaprolactone nanofibrous scaffold (NanoPCL-M) on skin cell populations exposed to UV. We set up a novel model of skin on a bioreactor mimicking a crosstalk between keratinocytes, stem cells and fibroblasts, as in skin. Beta-galactosidase assay, indicating the amount of senescent cells, and viability assay, revealed that fibroblasts and stem cells pretreated with NanoPCL-M and then exposed to UV are superimposable to control cells, untreated and unexposed to UV damage. On the other hand, cells only exposed to UV stress, without NanoPCL-M pretreatment, exhibited a significantly higher yield of senescent elements. Keratinocyte-based 3D structures appeared disjointed after UV-stress, as compared to NanoPCL-M pretreated samples. Gene expression analysis performed on different senescence associated genes, revealed the activation of a molecular program of rejuvenation in stem cells pretreated with NanoPCL-M and then exposed to UV. Altogether, our results highlight a future translational application of NanoPCL-M to prevent skin aging.

Effect of Hyaluronic Acid and Poly-L-Lactic Acid Dermal Fillers on Collagen Synthesis: An in vitro and in vivo Study

Purpose

Skin ageing is marked by structural and functional changes in epidermis and dermis, which result clinically in wrinkles, loss of elasticity, and rough-textured appearance. In this context, different dermal fillers have been used to overcome these negative effects associated with skin ageing, such as hyaluronic acid (HA) and poly-L-lactic acid (PLLA). Despite their low immunogenicity, these materials can cause an inflammatory reaction after application.

Materials and Methods

Considering high demand of HA and PLLA as filler material, this study aimed to evaluate their in vitro and in vivo effects. For the in vitro study, human dermal fibroblast cell cultures were supplemented with HA or PLLA for 24, 48, and 72 h. The following parameters were assayed: 1) cell proliferation, 2) cell viability, and 3) quantification of type I collagen by ELISA. For the in vivo study, HA or PLLA was injected in the dermis of Wistar rats and the tissues were collected after 15, 30, and 60 days for histologic evaluation and for quantification of type I collagen by Western blotting. The quantitative data were statistically analyzed using an ANOVA two-way. The significance level was set at 5%.

Results

At 72 h, high cell proliferation was observed for HA compared to control (p<0.05). Cultures exposed to PLLA exhibited a reduction in both cell proliferation and viability compared to control in all time points (p<0.05). Type I collagen expression was greater in cultures exposed to HA or PLLA compared to control (p<0.05). Histologic analysis showed the presence of multinucleated cells only in the PLLA group in all experimental time points. Western blotting analysis revealed high content of type I collagen in HA compared to PLLA (p<0.05).

Conclusion

The present study addresses a potentially unfavorable effect of dermal PLLA filler on the fibroblast phenotype, with possible clinical complications, unlike HA.

Role of proteoglycans on skin ageing: a review

This work analyses the role of proteoglycans on skin ageing, influenced by the presence of glycosylated proteins, which exercise diverse functions on the skin. They are essential components that restore the cells, providing hydration, maintaining hydration of the extracellular matrix, preventing the formation of wrinkles thanks to their ability to combine to other molecules such as collagen or hyaluronic acid and favouring the smoothness of the skin texture. The use of these proteins is a very recent and promising topic, since their application may revolutionize skin ageing therapies. Of the existing proteoglycans, decorin, versican and perlecan are of special note, playing a fundamental role on skin.

Dietary immature Citrus unshiu alleviates UVB- induced photoaging by suppressing degradation of basement membrane in hairless mice

Ultraviolet (UV) irradiation induces physiological and morphological skin damage, resulting in skin dryness, wrinkle formation, and loss of elasticity. The basement membrane (BM) has been shown to play crucial roles in binding epidermis to dermis tightly, regulating cell differentiation and proliferation, and signaling protein production. Dietary flavonoids have been revealed to improve the damage caused by UV exposure. Immature Citrus unshiu is known to contain high concentrations of flavonoids such as hesperidin and narirutin. In this study, the effects of immature Citrus unshiu powder (ICP) on photoaged skin were demonstrated using UVB irradiated hairless mice. Oral administration of ICP improved loss of skin hydration and increase of transepidermal water loss. The histological analyses of hairless mice dorsal skin revealed that oral administration of ICP improved UVB-induced overgrowth of epidermal cell, suppressed epidermal cell mortality and BM destruction. Therefore, the administration of ICP could improve photoaging by protecting the tissues around BM.

Bioassay-Guided Isolation, Metabolic Profiling, and Docking Studies of Hyaluronidase Inhibitors from Ravenala madagascariensis

Hyaluronidase enzyme (HAase) has a role in the dissolution or disintegration of hyaluronic acid (HA) and in maintaining the heathy state of skin. Bioassay-guided fractionation of Ravenala madagascariensis (Sonn.) organ extracts (leaf, flower, stem, and root) testing for hyaluronidase inhibition was performed followed by metabolic profiling using LC–HRMS. Additionally, a hyaluronidase docking study was achieved using Molecular Operating Environment (MOE). Results showed that the crude hydroalcoholic (70% EtOH) extract of the leaves as well as its n-butanol (n-BuOH) partition showed higher HAase activity with 64.3% inhibition. Metabolic analysis of R. madagascariensis resulted in the identification of 19 phenolic compounds ranging from different chemical classes (flavone glycosides, flavonol glycosides, and flavanol aglycones). Bioassay-guided purification of the leaf n-BuOH partition led to the isolation of seven compounds that were identified as narcissin, rutin, epiafzelechin, epicatechin, isorhamnetin 7-O-glucoside, kaempferol, and isorhamnetin-7-O-rutinoside. The docking study showed that narcissin, rutin, and quercetin 3-O-glucoside all interact with HAase through hydrogen bonding with the Asp111, Gln271, and/or Glu113 residues. Our results highlight Ravenala madagascariensis and its flavonoids as promising hyaluronidase inhibitors in natural cosmetology preparations for skin care.

Role of HYBID (Hyaluronan Binding Protein Involved in Hyaluronan Depolymerization), Alias KIAA1199/CEMIP, in Hyaluronan Degradation in Normal and Photoaged Skin

Photoaged skin is characterized clinically by apparent manifestations such as wrinkles and sagging, and histologically by an accumulation of abnormal elastin and a severe loss of collagen fibers in the dermis. Quantitative and qualitative alterations in elastin and collagens are considered to be responsible for the formation of wrinkles and sagging. However, since the integrity of elastin and collagen fibers in the dermis is maintained by their interactions with hyaluronan (HA) and a proteoglycan network structure, HA degradation may be the initial process, prior to the breakdown of the fibrillary components, leading to wrinkles and sagging in photoaged skin. We have recently discovered a new HA-degrading mechanism mediated by HYBID (hyaluronan binding protein involved in hyaluronan depolymerization), alias KIAA1199/CEMIP, in human skin fibroblasts, and examined the implication of HYBID for skin photoaging. In this review, we give an overview of the characteristics of HYBID and its prospective roles in HA turnover in normal skin and excessive HA degradation in photoaged skin. In addition, we describe our data on the inhibition of HYBID activity and expression by plant extracts in skin fibroblasts; and propose novel strategies to prevent or improve photoaging symptoms, such as skin wrinkling, by inhibition of HYBID-mediated HA degradation.

Age-related alterations of articular cartilage in pituitary adenylate cyclase-activating polypeptide (PACAP) gene-deficient mice

Pituitary adenylate cyclase activating polypeptide (PACAP) is an evolutionarly conserved neuropeptide which is produced by various neuronal and non-neuronal cells, including cartilage and bone cells. PACAP has trophic functions in tissue development, and it also plays a role in cellular and tissue aging. PACAP takes part in the regulation of chondrogenesis, which prevents insufficient cartilage formation caused by oxidative and mechanical stress. PACAP knockout (KO) mice have been shown to display early aging signs affecting several organs. In the present work, we investigated articular cartilage of knee joints in young and aged wild-type (WT) and PACAP KO mice. A significant increase in the thickness of articular cartilage was detected in aged PACAP gene-deficient mice. Amongst PACAP receptors, dominantly PAC1 receptor was expressed in WT knee joints and a remarkable decrease was found in aged PACAP KO mice. Expression of PKA-regulated transcription factors, Sox5, Sox9 and CREB, decreased both in young and aged gene deficient mice, while Sox6, collagen type II and aggrecan expressions were elevated in young but were reduced in aged PACAP KO animals. Increased expression of hyaluronan (HA) synthases and HA-binding proteins was detected parallel with an elevated presence of HA in aged PACAP KO mice. Expression of bone related collagens (I and X) was augmented in young and aged animals. These results suggest that loss of PACAP signaling results in dysregulation of cartilage matrix composition and may transform articular cartilage in a way that it becomes more prone to degenerate.

When the skin is in the center of interest: An aging issue

The skin represents the first bearer of marks of time as well as an easily accessible model for the assessment and determination of the involved molecular mechanisms. The deterioration of important skin functions due to intrinsic and extrinsic aging leads to clinical manifestations, which mirror several internal age-associated diseases, such as neurodegenerative, cardiovascular, skeletal, and endocrine/metabolic skin diseases. Current molecular data indicate that skin aging, especially intrinsic aging, mirrors age-related deficiencies in the entire human body. These data and the development of new biologic technologies highlight the importance of the skin in aging research and should enable future interdisciplinary projects on internal diseases, which could barely have been performed until recently due mainly to the lack of respective tissue.

Molecular Mechanisms of Dermal Aging and Antiaging Approaches

The dermis is primarily composed of the extracellular matrix (ECM) and fibroblasts. During the aging process, the dermis undergoes significant changes. Collagen, which is a major component of ECM, becomes fragmented and coarsely distributed, and its total amount decreases. This is mainly due to increased activity of matrix metalloproteinases, and impaired transforming growth factor-β signaling induced by reactive oxygen species generated during aging. The reduction in the amount of collagen hinders the mechanical interaction between fibroblasts and the ECM, and consequently leads to the deterioration of fibroblast function and further decrease in the amount of dermal collagen. Other ECM components, including elastic fibers, glycosaminglycans (GAGs), and proteoglycans (PGs), also change during aging, ultimately leading to a reduction in the amount of functional components. Elastic fibers decrease in intrinsically aged skin, but accumulate abnormally in photoaged skin. The changes in the levels of GAGs and PGs are highly diverse, and previous studies have reported conflicting results. A reduction in the levels of functional dermal components results in the emergence of clinical aging features, such as wrinkles and reduced elasticity. Various antiaging approaches, including topicals, energy-based procedures, and dermal fillers, can restore the molecular features of dermal aging with clinical efficacy. This review summarizes the current understanding of skin aging at the molecular level, and associated treatments, to put some of the new antiaging technology that has emerged in this rapidly expanding field into molecular context.

Resveratrol: from diet to topical usage

The stilbene derivative resveratrol (3,5,4'-trihydroxy-stilbene; RESV) has become the subject of interest of many researchers and the pharmaceutical industries due to its well-acclaimed beneficial biological activities. Although earlier research tended to focus on the effects of RESV on cardiovascular disorders, many other studies have described the beneficial effects of RESV in the areas of cancer chemoprevention and inflammation and interest of researchers on this compound is still increasing. It is now well accepted that the effect of RESV is not just due to its so called "antioxidant" activity but mainly (if not only) because of the ability of this compound to trigger cell signaling pathways and gene expression involved in cellular defense systems. Many "in vitro" studies on RESV did not take into account that although its oral absorption is about 75% it undergoes rapid metabolism and the concentration in the blood stream is almost undetectable. For this reason interest in the topical usage of RESV by cosmeceutical skin care brands has exponentially increased in the last decade reporting in general very promising results on its beneficial effect in protecting the skin from outdoor insults, but there is still some controversy on its topical usage mainly surrounding the concentration used. Therefore, more basic research on the topical application of RESV should be performed to better understand the way it prevents cutaneous damage and whether it could be recommended as a preventive skin aging agent for all skin insults.

Reduction of hyaluronan and increased expression of HYBID (alias CEMIP and KIAA1199) correlate with clinical symptoms in photoaged skin

BACKGROUND

Hyaluronan (HA) metabolism in skin fibroblasts is mediated by HYBID (hyaluronan binding protein involved in hyaluronan depolymerization, alias CEMIP and KIAA1199) and the HA synthases HAS1 and HAS2. However, photoageing-dependent changes in HA and their molecular mechanisms, and the relationship between HA metabolism and clinical symptoms in photoaged skin remain elusive.

OBJECTIVES

We examined the amount, size and tissue distribution of HA and expression levels of HYBID, HAS1 and HAS2 in photoaged skin, and analysed their relationship with the degree of photoageing.

METHODS

Photoageing-dependent changes of HA were investigated by studying skin biopsies isolated from photoprotected and photoexposed areas of the same donors, and the relationships between HA and photoageing symptoms such as skin wrinkling and sagging were examined.

RESULTS

Skin biopsy specimens showed that the amount and size of HA are decreased in photoexposed skin compared with photoprotected skin, and this was accompanied by increased expression of HYBID and decreased expression of HAS1 and HAS2. Histologically, HA staining in the papillary dermis was decreased in photoexposed skin, showing reverse correlation with HYBID expression. HYBID expression in the photoexposed skin directly correlated with skin roughness and sagging parameters, and the reduced HA staining in the papillary dermis in the photoexposed skin positively correlated with these symptoms.

CONCLUSIONS

These data demonstrate that imbalance between HYBID-mediated HA degradation and HAS-mediated HA synthesis may contribute to enhanced HA catabolism in photoaged skin, and suggest that HYBID-mediated HA reduction in the papillary dermis is related to skin wrinkling and sagging of photoaged skin.

The Rejuvenating Effect and Tolerability of an Auto-Cross-Linked Hyaluronic Acid on Décolletage: A Pilot Prospective Study

BACKGROUND

A novel auto-cross-linked hyaluronic acid formulation (HA-ACP) has been proposed as a treatment for skin rejuvenation. This prospective pilot study aims to assess its tolerability and performance in the treatment of skin aging of the décolletage.

METHODS

Fifteen women (mean age 49.0 ± 8.0  (range 30-65)) who complained about the appearance of their décolletage were prospectively enrolled and treated with three sets of HA-ACP (IAL-SYSTEM ACP®) intradermal injections, administered three weeks apart. Control visits followed at 80 and 120 days from enrollment. The rejuvenating effect was assessed using the Beagley-Gibson and Fabi-Bolton scores. The investigators and the subjects also subjectively assessed skin appearance using a 1-10 scale. The rejuvenating effect and its persistence were assessed comparing the scores collected at the different experimental times by means of Wilcoxon rank tests. Adverse events and their duration were recorded and compared to those reported in the literature.

RESULTS

The HA-ACP formulation provided a significant improvement according to the Beagley-Gibson score (p < 0.005) at all time points. At the 120-day follow-up, the Fabi-Bolton score was significantly improved with respect to baseline (p < 0.05). The rejuvenating effect persisted unaltered between the 80-day and the 120-day visits. At the 120-day visit, the subjects' and investigators' subjective scores were between 8 and 10 in most cases. No unexpected adverse effects were observed. All adverse effects were well tolerated and disappeared over a short period.

CONCLUSIONS

The HA-ACP treatment under investigation is safe, well tolerated, and provides effective and long-lasting décolletage rejuvenation.

LEVEL OF EVIDENCE IV

This journal requires that authors assign a level of evidence to each article. For a full description of these Evidence-Based Medicine ratings, please refer to the Table of Contents or the online Instructions to Authors www.springer.com/00266 .

Relationship of hyaluronan and HYBID (KIAA1199) expression with roughness parameters of photoaged skin in Caucasian women

BACKGROUND

Hyaluronan (HA) is an important constituent of extracellular matrix (ECM) in the skin, and HA degradation mediated by HYBID (KIAA1199) is suggested to be implicated in facial skin wrinkling in Japanese women. Ethnic difference in skin wrinkle formation is known between Caucasian and Japanese women, but no information is available for the relations of HA and HYBID expression levels with skin wrinkling in Caucasian women.

METHODS

The skin surface roughness at the eye corner of the Caucasian female subjects was measured, and the skin specimens biopsied from the same areas were subjected to microarray gene analysis, HA staining, and immunohistochemistry for HYBID.

RESULTS

Among the ECM genes and those related to ECM metabolism, only HYBID expression levels positively correlated with the skin roughness parameters. When the skin sample groups with high expression of HYBID or low expression of HYBID were compared, the HA staining intensity and the ratio of HYBID-immunoreactive cells to total cells in the superficial dermis were significantly reduced and increased in the high-HYBID-expression group compared with the low-HYBID-expression group, respectively.

CONCLUSION

Our data suggest that like Japanese women, HYBID-mediated reduction of HA in the superficial dermis is involved in the formation of wrinkles in Caucasian women.

Local injection of high-molecular hyaluronan promotes wound healing in old rats by increasing angiogenesis

Impaired angiogenesis contributes to delayed wound healing in aging. Hyaluronan (HA) has a close relationship with angiogenesis and wound healing. However, HA content decreases with age. In this study, we used high molecular weight HA (HMW-HA) (1650 kDa), and investigated its effects on wound healing in old rats by local injection. We found that HMW-HA significantly increases proliferation, migration and tube formation in endothelial cells, and protects endothelial cells against apoptosis. Local injection of HMW-HA promotes wound healing by increasing angiogenesis in old rats. HMW-HA increases the phosphorylation of Src, ERK and AKT, leading to increased angiogenesis, suggesting that local injection of HMW-HA promotes wound healing in elderly patients.

The promise of marine molecules as cosmetic active ingredients

The marine environment represents an underexploited resource for the discovery of novel products, despite its high level of biological and chemical diversity. With increasing awareness of the harmful effects of chronic ultraviolet exposure, and a universal desire to improve cosmetic appearance, the market for new cosmetic ingredients is growing, and current trends have generated a greater demand for products sourced from the environment. A growing number of novel molecules from marine flora and fauna exhibit potent and effective dermatological activities. Secondary metabolites isolated from macroalgae, including carotenoids and polyphenols, have demonstrated antioxidant, anti-ageing and anti-inflammatory activities. In addition, marine extremophilic bacteria have recently been shown to produce bioactive exopolymeric molecules, some of which have been commercialized. Available data on their activities show significant antioxidant, moisturizing and anti-ageing activities, but a more focussed investigation into their mechanisms and applications is required. This review surveys the reported biological activities of an emerging and growing portfolio of marine molecules that show promise in the treatment of cosmetic skin problems including ultraviolet damage, ageing and cutaneous dryness.

Cactus cladodes (Opuntia humifusa) extract minimizes the effects of UV irradiation on keratinocytes and hairless mice

CONTEXT

Cactus cladodes [Opuntia humifusa (Raf.) Raf. (Cactaceae)] is one of the cactus genera, which has long been used as a folk medicine for skin disorders.

OBJECTIVE

This study investigated the skincare potential of cactus cladodes extract (OHE), including its ability to regulate ultraviolet B (UVB)-induced hyaluronic acid (HA) production.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

Gene expression levels of hyaluronic acid synthases (HASs) and hyaluronidase (HYAL) were measured in UVB-irradiated HaCaT cells with OHE treatment (10, 25, 50, 100 μg/mL) by real-time polymerase chain reaction (PCR). The HA content was analyzed in hairless mice (SKH-1, male, 6 weeks old) treated with OHE for 10 weeks by using enzyme-linked immunosorbent assay (ELISA). Haematoxylin and eosin (H&E) and immunohistological staining were performed to examine epidermal thickness and levels of CD44 and hyaluronic acid-binding protein (HABP).

RESULTS

HA synthases (HAS,1 HAS2, HAS3) mRNA levels were increased by 1.9-, 2.2- and 1.6-fold, respectively, with OHE treatment (100 μg/mL), while UVB-induced increase of hyaluronidase mRNA significantly decreased by 35%. HA content in animal was decreased from 42.9 to 27.1 ng/mL by OHE treatment. HAS mRNA levels were decreased by 39%, but HYAL mRNA was increased by 50% in OHE group. CD44 and HABP levels, which were greatly increased by UVB-irradiation, were reduced by 64 and 60%, respectively. Epidermal thickness, transepidermal water loss (TEWL), and erythema formation was also decreased by 45 (45.7 to 24.2 μm), 48 (48.8 to 25 g/h/m²) and 33%, respectively.

CONCLUSION

OHE protects skin from UVB-induced skin degeneration in HaCaT cells and hairless mice.

Protein Expression Level of Skin Wrinkle-Related Factors in Hairless Mice Fed Hyaluronic Acid

The aim of this study was to evaluate the wrinkle improving effect of hyaluronic acid intakes. Wrinkles were induced by exposing the skin of hairless mice to ultraviolet B (UVB) irradiation for 14 weeks. Hyaluronic acid was administered to the mice for 14 weeks including 4 weeks before experiments. Skin tissue was assayed by enzyme-linked immunosorbent assay to determine protein expression of wrinkle-related markers. The group supplemented with high concentrations of hyaluronic acid appeared significantly better than control group for collagen, matrix metalloproteinase 1, interleukin (IL)-1β, and IL-6 assay. Transforming growth factor-β1 (TGF-β1) and hyaluronic acid synthase 2 (HAS-2) were not shown to be significantly different. In conclusion, hyaluronic acid administration regulated expression levels of proteins associated with skin integrity, and improved the wrinkle level in skin subjected to UVB irradiation.

Hyaluronic Acid Decreases Lipid Synthesis in Sebaceous Glands

Hyaluronic acid (HA) is the major glycosaminoglycan in the extracellular matrix and has been implicated in several functions in skin cells. However, evidence is lacking regarding the HA signaling in sebaceous glands, and its potential role needs to be clarified. We investigated the role of HA in lipid production in sebaceous glands in an experimental study of human sebocytes followed by a clinical study. We first examined the effects of HA on sebaceous glands in hamsters and intradermal injection of HA into hamster auricles decreased both the size of sebaceous glands and the level of lipid production. We demonstrated that human skin sebaceous glands in vivo and sebocytes in vitro express CD44 (HA binding receptor) and that HA downregulates lipid synthesis in a dose-dependent manner. To evaluate the clinical relevance of HA in human skin, 20 oily participants were included in a double-blind, placebo-controlled, split-face study, and the HA-treated side showed a significant decrease in sebum production. The results of this study indicate that HA plays a functional role in human sebaceous gland biology and HA signaling is an effective candidate in the management of disorders in which sebum production is increased.

Mesenchymal Stem Cells from Adipose Tissue in Clinical Applications for Dermatological Indications and Skin Aging

Operating at multiple levels of control, mesenchymal stem cells from adipose tissue (ADSCs) communicate with organ systems to adjust immune response, provide signals for differentiation, migration, enzymatic reactions, and to equilibrate the regenerative demands of balanced tissue homeostasis. The identification of the mechanisms by which ADSCs accomplish these functions for dermatological rejuvenation and wound healing has great potential to identify novel targets for the treatment of disorders and combat aging. Herein, we review new insights into the role of adipose-derived stem cells in the maintenance of dermal and epidermal homeostasis, and recent advances in clinical applications of ADSCs related to dermatology.