Photostability of the sunscreening agent 4-tert-butyl-4′-methoxydibenzoylmethane (avobenzone) in solvents of different polarity and proticity

Beyond Traditional Sunscreens: A Review of Liposomal-Based Systems for Photoprotection

Sunscreen products are essential for shielding the skin from ultraviolet (UV) radiation, a leading cause of skin cancer. While existing products serve this purpose, there is a growing need to enhance their efficacy while minimizing potential systemic absorption of UV filters and associated toxicological risks. Liposomal-based formulations have emerged as a promising approach to address these challenges and develop advanced photoprotective products. These vesicular systems offer versatility in carrying both hydrophilic and lipophilic UV filters, enabling the creation of broad-spectrum sunscreens. Moreover, their composition based on phospholipids, resembling that of the stratum corneum, facilitates adherence to the skin's surface layers, thereby improving photoprotective efficacy. The research discussed in this review underscores the significant advantages of liposomes in photoprotection, including their ability to limit the systemic absorption of UV filters, enhance formulation stability, and augment photoprotective effects. However, despite these benefits, there remains a notable gap between the potential of liposomal systems and their utilization in sunscreen development. Consequently, this review emphasizes the importance of leveraging liposomes and related vesicular systems as innovative tools for crafting novel and more efficient photoprotective formulations.

Ring buckling and C=N isomerization pathways for efficient photoprotection in two nature-inspired UVA sunscreens revealed through ultrafast dynamics and high-level calculations

Sunscreens provide a frontline defense for our DNA against the damage caused by ultraviolet (UV) radiation. The active ingredients in topically applied sunscreens that provide this defense are UV filters, which preferentially absorb or reflect UV radiation before it penetrates the skin and interacts with photosensitive nucleic acids. However, there are concerns related to human and environmental toxicity of current UV filters, and consequently a shift toward nature-inspired, particularly microbial, UV filters. In this paper, new physical insight is provided into the fundamental mechanisms of photoprotection in two synthetic analogs of mycosporine-like amino acid-type UV filters, demonstrating new methods of protection that are distinct from those of current commercial sunscreens, extending previous work in this area. Transient absorption measurements (both transient electronic absorption spectroscopy and transient vibrational absorption spectroscopy) are combined with steady-state studies and high-level computational results to aid our mapping of the experimentally derived lifetimes to real-time photodynamic processes. The conclusions reached here pave the way toward developing new and more efficient biomimetic DNA photoprotectant materials.

Theoretical studies on the photo protective mechanism of curcuminoids

In this work, the deactivation pathways of curcuminoids after photoexcitation was studied by employing density functional theory to explore their UVA radiation screening capacity. A comprehensive computational characterization of the excited-state processes of curcumin, demethoxycurcumin, and bis-demethoxycurcumin was done. The molecules exist in diketo and enol forms which are in equilibrium and interconvertible through keto-enol tautomerism. The enolic forms of each of the studied molecules have eight geometric cis-trans isomers as a result of torsion rotation about three different carbon-carbon double bonds across the aliphatic chain. For each geometric isomer, sixteen possible rotamers are found to exist due to rotation about five different carbon-carbon single bond rotations, also across the skeleton of the aliphatic chain. Upon photoexcitation, the studied molecules follow three main pathways of radiationless decay: (a) rotamerism and interconversion between rotamers of comparable energies which are in equilibrium, (b) interconversion between the cis-trans geometrical isomers where an efficient vibrational relaxation path is formed at ∼90° during torsion rotation about carbon-carbon double bond, and (c) excited state intramolecular proton transfer in a single O-H stretching vibration through a cyclic intramolecular hydrogen bonded ring formed at the centre of the molecule giving back the original structure. The absorption and emission spectra of the molecules were also simulated where the theoretically obtained absorption and emission maxima are close to the reported experimental values.

Voltammetric determination of organic UV filters by carbon paste electrodes modified with pyridinium-based ionic liquids

The rapid and sensitive voltammetric determination of organic UV filters benzophenone-3 (BP-3) and avobenzone (AVO) was performed by an ionic liquid carbon paste electrode (IL-CPE). Namely, the synthesized pyridinium-based ILs, 1-butyl-3-methylpyridinium chloride ([N-C4-3C1Py]Cl) and 1-ethoxyethyl-3-methylpyridinium chloride ([N-C2OC2-3C1Py]Cl) were compared as bulk CPE modifiers for BP-3 determination. [N-C4-3C1Py]Cl-CPE showed more favorable interactions with the target analyte, and it was tested for AVO determination, too. Cyclic voltammetric (CV) studies suggested that the irreversible electrode reaction is adsorption controlled in the case of both UV filters. Also, the square-wave adsorptive stripping voltammetric (SW-AdSV) method was optimized for quantifying selected UV filters. In the model solutions, the linear calibration curve was obtained by the SW-AdSV method in the concentration range from 0.05 to 0.89 μg mL-1 at pH 3.0 for BP-3 (Eacc = -0.7 V, tacc = 100 s), and from 0.05 to 1.77 μg mL-1 at pH 11.98 for AVO (Eacc = 0.2 V, tacc = 100 s). The evaluated limit of detection (LOD) was 0.015 μg mL-1 in both cases, while the relative standard deviation (RSD) was lower than 1.5%. The affordable IL-based voltammetric sensor fulfills the main requirements for application in real samples due to an adequate selectivity towards selected analytes in the presence of interferents usually found in swimming pool water. Therefore, the BP-3 and AVO were quantified in a swimming pool water matrix with good repeatability and recovery. The obtained results demonstrate an excellent potential of the IL-CPEs, especially of the [N-C4-3C1Py]Cl-CPE, for determining selected UV filters in various real samples.

Multicomponent synthesis and photophysical study of novel α,β-unsaturated carbonyl depsipeptides and peptoids

Multicomponent reactions were performed to develop novel α,β-unsaturated carbonyl depsipeptides and peptoids incorporating various chromophores such as cinnamic, coumarin, and quinolines. Thus, through the Passerini and Ugi multicomponent reactions (P-3CR and U-4CR), we obtained thirteen depsipeptides and peptoids in moderate to high yield following the established protocol and fundamentally varying the electron-rich carboxylic acid as reactants. UV/Vis spectroscopy was utilized to study the photophysical properties of the newly synthesized compounds. Differences between the carbonyl-substituted chromophores cause differences in electron delocalization that can be captured in the spectra. The near UV regions of all the compounds exhibited strong absorption bands. Compounds P2, P5, U2, U5, and U7 displayed absorption bands in the range of 250-350 nm, absorbing radiation in this broad region of the electromagnetic spectrum. A photostability study for U5 showed that its molecular structure does not change after exposure to UV radiation. Fluorescence analysis showed an incipient emission of U5, while U6 showed blue fluorescence under UV radiation. The photophysical properties and electronic structure were also determined by TD-DFT theoretical study.

Will warmer summers increase the impact of UV filters on marine bivalves?

Marine organisms are constantly exposed to multiple stressors including pollutants released into the environment, such as personal care products (PCPs), and climate change-derived factors, namely warming, which are aggravated by anthropogenic drivers and pose increasing pressure on coastal ecosystems. Avobenzone (AVO) is one of the most used ultraviolet (UV) filters in PCPs which have been increasingly used and, thereby, identified in aquatic environments. However, data regarding the influence of warming on the impacts caused by AVO in bivalves is lacking. Mussels are considered good bioindicators thus being often employed in ecotoxicology studies. Hence, the present study aimed to evaluate the toxic effects of an environmentally relevant concentration of AVO (0.5 μg/L) and warming (21 °C), acting alone or in combination, on sperm and adults of the Mediterranean mussel species Mytilus galloprovincialis, through in vitro and in vivo tests, respectively. AVO and warming effects were evaluated by assessing oxidative status, viability, genotoxicity, motility, and kinetics in sperm, together with the quantification of energy content, metabolic capacity, biological defence mechanisms, cellular damage, and neurotoxicity in adults. AVO induced genotoxicity and increased respiration rate in sperm while enhancing the biotransformation enzymes' activity in adults. Exposure to warming led to an increase in respiration rate, ROS overproduction, cellular damage, and viability decrease in sperm whereas metabolic capacity increased in adults. AVO combined with warming caused oxidative stress, cellular damage, genotoxicity, and decreased motility in sperm, while only antioxidant enzymes' activity was enhanced in adults. Overall, the present study demonstrated that when acting in combination the effects of both stressors were more prominent. Furthermore, considering the multiple-stressor scenario tested, major toxic effects occurred in male gametes in comparison to adults.

Drug Delivery Strategies for Avobenzone: A Case Study of Photostabilization

Several developments and research methods are ongoing in drug technology and chemistry research to elicit effectiveness regarding the therapeutic activity of drugs along with photoprotection for their molecular integrity. The detrimental effect of UV light induces damaged cells and DNA, which leads to skin cancer and other phototoxic effects. The application of sunscreen shields to the skin is important, along with recommended UV filters. Avobenzone is widely used as a UVA filter for skin photoprotection in sunscreen formulations. However, keto-enol tautomerism propagates photodegradation into it, which further channelizes the phototoxic and photoirradiation effects, further limiting its use. Several approaches have been used to counter these issues, including encapsulation, antioxidants, photostabilizers, and quenchers. To seek the gold standard approach for photoprotection in photosensitive drugs, combinations of strategies have been implemented to identify effective and safe sunscreen agents. The stringent regulatory guidelines for sunscreen formulations, along with the availability of limited FDA-approved UV filters, have led many researchers to develop perfect photostabilization strategies for available photostable UV filters, such as avobenzone. From this perspective, the objective of the current review is to summarize the recent literature on drug delivery strategies implemented for the photostabilization of avobenzone that could be useful to frame industrially oriented potential strategies on a large scale to circumvent all possible photounstable issues of avobenzone.

In vitro spermiotoxicity and in vivo adults' biochemical pattern after exposure of the Mediterranean mussel to the sunscreen avobenzone

Avobenzone (AVO) is one of the most frequent ultraviolet (UV) filters in personal care products (PCPs). The Mediterranean mussel Mytilus galloprovincialis is a bioindicator often used for ecotoxicological research. Since UV filters reach higher peaks during summer in aquatic bodies, coincident with mussels' spawning period, and bivalves are sessile, both male gametes and adults of this species were used in this experiment. Therefore, the present study aimed to assess how AVO affects M. galloprovincialis at different biological levels. In vitro experiments on sperms (30 min-exposure) and in vivo experiments on adults (28 days-exposure) were carried out at 0.1, 1.0 and 10.0 μg/L of AVO concentrations. The oxidative and physiological status together with genotoxicity in exposed sperms were assessed. Several biochemical parameters related to enzymatic antioxidant defences, biotransformation enzymes, cell membrane damage, energy reserves, and neurotoxicity were evaluated in adult mussels. Results of in vitro sperm exposure to AVO showed significant overproduction of superoxide anions and DNA damages in all treatments and decrease in sperm viability at 1.0 and 10.0 μg/L. AVO exposure also led to complete inhibition of motility of sperms at the highest concentration, while a significant increase of curvilinear velocity and decrease of wobble occurred at 1.0 μg/L. In vivo exposed adults exhibited a significant decrease in metabolic capacity at 0.1 μg/L, a significant increase in the total protein content and enzymatic turnover as superoxide dismutase (antioxidant defence) at 10 μg/L. This study revealed an ecological concern related to the high sensitivity of sperms respectively to adults under environmentally relevant concentrations of AVO, underpinning an hypothesis of male reproductive function impairments.

Lignin Nanoparticles as Sustainable Photoprotective Carriers for Sunscreen Filters

Sunscreen filters may be degraded after prolonged UV exposure with loss of their shielding property and generation of harmful radical species. They are contained in cosmetic formulations in high concentrations, so the improvement of photostability is of relevance for safety concerns. We report here that lignin nanoparticles are sustainable carriers and photostabilizers of two common UV chemical filters, namely, avobenzone and octyl methoxycinnamate. These compounds have been encapsulated by nanoprecipitation into kraft lignin nanoparticles using eco-certified dimethyl isosorbide as a primary solvent and deionized water as an antisolvent. After the encapsulation, both compounds significantly prolonged the half-life stability against UV irradiation. The stabilizing properties of lignin nanoparticles were further improved by coencapsulation of avobenzone and octyl methoxycinnamate with hydroxytyrosol, a natural phenol with antioxidant activity recovered from olive oil wastes and characterized by skin regenerative properties.

Peptide Cysteine Thiols Act as Photostabilizer of Avobenzone through Stabilising the Transition State of Keto-enol Tautomerization

Photostabilizers have been used to impart stability to an FDA-approved chemical UV-A filter avobenzone against the UV-A radiations and sunlight. The thiol group of glutathione plays a critical role in imparting the photostabilization activity of glutathione on avobenzone. The current report aims to evaluate the photostabilization activity of multiple thiols containing cysteine peptides on avobenzone. Cysteine-tripeptide and cysteine-pentapeptide were chemically synthesized and characterized using mass spectrometry. Synthetic peptides were assessed for their photostabilization activity on the enolic-form of the avobenzone under natural sunlight using UV-spectroscopy in both protic and aprotic solvents. Unlike glutathione which has pronounced activity in protic solvents, cysteine-pentapeptide exhibits similar photoprotection activity in both protic and aprotic solvents. Computational calculations using DFT suggest that peptide cysteine thiols may assist in the reversal of the photoketonization process of avobenzone thereby exhibiting the photoprotection activity to the enolic-form of avobenzone. Peptide cysteine thiols lower the activation energy barrier of keto-to-enol tautomerization of avobenzone by 30 kcal/mol by assisting the proton shuttle through a six-membered transition state. The current report emphasizes the applications of peptide thiols in cosmetics and may help in the development of peptides as aesthetic medicines.

Transformation of Organic Compounds during Water Chlorination/Bromination: Formation Pathways for Disinfection By-Products (A Review)

The purity of drinking water is an important issue of the human life quality. Water disinfection has saved millions people from the diseases spread with water. However, that procedure has a certain drawback due to formation of toxic organic disinfection products. Establishing the structures of these products and the mechanisms of their formation and diminishing their levels in drinking water represent an important task for chemistry and medicine, while mass spectrometry is the most efficient tool for the corresponding studies. The current review throws light upon natural and anthropogenic sources of the formation of disinfection by-products (DBPs) and the mechanisms of their formation related to the structural peculiarities and the presence of functional groups. In addition to chlorination, bromination is discussed since it is used quite often as an alternative method of disinfection, particularly, for the purification of swimming pool water. The benefits of the contemporary GC/MS and LC/MS methods for the elucidation of DBP structures and study of the mechanisms of their formation are discussed. The reactions characteristic for various functional groups and directions of transformation of certain classes of organic compounds in conditions of aqueous chlorination/bromination are also covered in the review.

Determining the photostability of avobenzone in sunscreen formulation models using ultrafast spectroscopy

Avobenzone is an ultraviolet (UV) filter that is often included in sunscreen formulations despite its lack of photostability. Its inclusion is necessary due to few existing alternatives for photoprotection in the UVA region (320-400 nm). To better understand and predict the photostability of avobenzone, ultrafast transient electronic absorption spectroscopy (TEAS) has been used to study the effects of solvent (including emollients), concentration and skin surface temperature on its excited-state relaxation mechanism, following photoexcitation with UVA radiation (∼350 nm). Subtle differences between the excited-state lifetimes were found between the systems, but the TEAS spectral features were qualitatively the same for all solution and temperature combinations. Alongside TEAS measurements, UV filter/emollient blends containing avobenzone were irradiated using simulated solar light and their degradation tracked using steady-state UV-visible spectroscopy. Sun protection factor (SPF) and UVA protection factor (UVA-PF) assessments were also carried out on representative oil phases (higher concentration blends), which could be used to formulate oil-in-water sunscreens. It was found that there was an apparent concentration dependence on the long-term photoprotective efficacy of these mixtures, which could be linked to the ultrafast photodynamics by the presence of a ground-state bleach offset. This combination of techniques shows potential for correlating long-term behaviours (minutes to hours) of avobenzone with its ultrafast photophysics (femtoseconds to nanoseconds), bridging the gap between fundamental photophysics/photochemistry and commercial sunscreen design.

Mechanistic Aspects of the Photophysics of UVA Filters Based on Meldrum Derivatives

Skin photoprotection against UVA radiation is crucial, but it is hindered by the sparsity of approved commercial UVA filters. Sinapoyl malate (SM) derivatives are promising candidates for a new class of UVA filters. They have been previously identified as an efficient photoprotective sunscreen in plants due to their fast nonradiative energy dissipation. Combining experimental and computational results, in our previous letter (J. Phys. Chem. Lett. 2021, 12, 337-344) we showed that coumaryl Meldrum (CMe) and sinapoyl Meldrum (SMe) are outstanding candidates for UVA filters in sunscreen formulations. Here, we deliver a comprehensive computational characterization of the excited-state dynamics of these molecules. Using reaction pathways and excited-state dynamics simulations, we could elucidate the photodeactivation mechanism of these molecules. Upon photoexcitation, they follow a two-step logistic decay. First, an ultrafast and efficient relaxation stabilizes the excited state alongside a 90° twisting around the allylic double bond, giving rise to a minimum with a twisted intramolecular excited-state (TICT) character. From this minimum, internal conversion to the ground state occurs after overcoming a 0.2 eV barrier. Minor differences in the nonradiative decay and fluorescence of CMe and SMe are associated with an additional minimum present only in the latter.

Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate and butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane: Toxicological effects on marine biota and human concerns

Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate (EHMC) (CAS number: 5466-77-3) and butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane (BMDM) (CAS number: 70356-09-1) are important sunscreens. However, frequent application of large amounts of these compounds may reflect serious environmental impact, once it enters the environment through indirect release via wastewater treatment or immediate release during water activities. In this article, we reviewed the toxicological effects of EHMC and BMDM on aquatic ecosystems and the human consequences. According to the literature, EHMC and BMDM have been detected in water samples and sediments worldwide. Consequently, these compounds are also present in several marine organisms like fish, invertebrates, coral reefs, marine mammals, and other species, due to its bioaccumulation potential. Studies show that these chemicals are capable of damaging the aquatic beings in different ways. Further, bioaccumulation studies have shown that EHMC biomagnifies through trophic levels, which makes human seafood consumption a concern because the higher position in the trophic chain, the more elevate levels of ultraviolet (UV) filters are detected, and it is established that EHMC present adverse effects on the human organism. In contrast, there are no studies on the BMDM bioaccumulation and biomagnification potential. Different strategies can be adopted to avoid the damage caused by sunscreens in the environment and human organism. Two of them include the use of natural photoprotectors, such as polyphenols, in association with UV filters in sunscreens and the development of new and safer UV filters. Overall, this review shows the importance of studying the impacts of sunscreens in nature and developing safer sunscreens and formulations to safeguard marine fauna, ecosystems, and humans.

New Generation UV-A Filters: Understanding Their Photodynamics on a Human Skin Mimic

The sparsity of efficient commercial ultraviolet-A (UV-A) filters is a major challenge toward developing effective broadband sunscreens with minimal human- and eco-toxicity. To combat this, we have designed a new class of Meldrum-based phenolic UV-A filters. We explore the ultrafast photodynamics of coumaryl Meldrum, CMe, and sinapyl Meldrum (SMe), both in an industry-standard emollient and on a synthetic skin mimic, using femtosecond transient electronic and vibrational absorption spectroscopies and computational simulations. Upon photoexcitation to the lowest excited singlet state (S₁), these Meldrum-based phenolics undergo fast and efficient nonradiative decay to repopulate the electronic ground state (S₀). We propose an initial ultrafast twisted intramolecular charge-transfer mechanism as these systems evolve out of the Franck-Condon region toward an S₁/S₀ conical intersection, followed by internal conversion to S₀ and subsequent vibrational cooling. Importantly, we correlate these findings to their long-term photostability upon irradiation with a solar simulator and conclude that these molecules surpass the basic requirements of an industry-standard UV filter.

The effect of deuteration on the keto-enol equilibrium and photostability of the sunscreen agent avobenzone

The remarkable properties of deuterium have led to many exciting and favourable results in enhancing material properties, for applications in the physical, medical, and biological sciences. Deuterated isotopologues of avobenzone, a sunscreen active ingredient, were synthesised to examine for any changes to the equilibrium between the diketone and enol isomers, as well as their UV photostability and photoprotective properties. Prior to UV irradiation, deuteration of the diketone methylene/enol moiety (i.e. avobenzone-d2) led to an increase in the % diketone compared to non-deuterated, determined by 1H NMR experiments in CDCl3 and C6D12. This can be rationalised from two angles; mechanistically by a deuterium kinetic isotope effect for the CH vs. CD abstraction step during tautomerisation from the diketone to the enol, and a weaker chelating hydrogen bond for the enol when deuterated allowing increased equilibration to the diketone. Avobenzone-d2 was further examined by solid state 13C NMR. The higher % diketone for avobenzone-d2 was postulated to favour increased photodegradation by a non-reversible pathway. This was investigated by UV irradiation of the avobenzone isotopologues in C6D12, both in real time in situ within the NMR by fibre optic cable as well as ex situ using sunlight. An increase in the relative amount of photoproducts for avobenzone-d2 compared to non-deuterated was observed by 1H NMR upon UV irradiation ex situ. Overall, the study demonstrates that deuteration can be applied to alter complex equilibria, and has potential to be manifested as changes to the properties and behaviour of materials.

Unravelling the Photoprotective Mechanisms of Nature-Inspired Ultraviolet Filters Using Ultrafast Spectroscopy

There are several drawbacks with the current commercially available ultraviolet (UV) filters used in sunscreen formulations, namely deleterious human and ecotoxic effects. As a result of the drawbacks, a current research interest is in identifying and designing new UV filters. One approach that has been explored in recent years is to use nature as inspiration, which is the focus of this review. Both plants and microorganisms have adapted to synthesize their own photoprotective molecules to guard their DNA from potentially harmful UV radiation. The relaxation mechanism of a molecule after it has been photoexcited can be unravelled by several techniques, the ones of most interest for this review being ultrafast spectroscopy and computational methods. Within the literature, both techniques have been implemented on plant-, and microbial-inspired UV filters to better understand their photoprotective roles in nature. This review aims to explore these findings for both families of nature-inspired UV filters in the hope of guiding the future design of sunscreens.

In vitro metabolism of sunscreen compounds by liquid chromatography/high-resolution tandem mass spectrometry

RATIONALE

Exposure to UV light can induce adverse effects on human health, such as photo-aging, immunosuppression, and cancer. Sunscreens are used to prevent the absorption of UV rays, but certain UV-filtering compounds have been shown to disrupt endocrine systems or act as carcinogens. To assess the effects of the exposure to such compounds, it is important to study the pathways by which they are biotransformed in the body.

METHODS

Liquid chromatography coupled to high-resolution tandem mass spectrometry (LC/HRMS/MS) was employed to evaluate the oxidative metabolism and, specifically, the formation of reactive metabolites of six active ingredients commonly used in sunscreen formulations: oxybenzone, avobenzone, homosalate, octisalate, octocrylene, and octinoxate. In vitro incubations were performed with human and rat liver microsomes in the presence of β-nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide phosphate and glutathione. An LC/HRMS/MS method was developed to identify metabolites employing a biphenyl reversed-phase column for separating parent molecules, metabolites, and glutathione (GSH) adducts.

RESULTS

Each tested compound resulted in the formation of several metabolites, including at least one GSH adduct. Compounds containing ester groups were hydrolyzed, and some metabolites of the free acid forms were also detected. High-resolution MS/MS data was crucial for the structural elucidation of metabolites and GSH adducts. Fragmentation pathways were proposed for all parent compounds, as well as each described metabolite and adduct.

CONCLUSIONS

The results of this study will help better understand the metabolism and detoxification pathways of these xenobiotics.

Unravelling the Keto-Enol Tautomer Dependent Photochemistry and Degradation Pathways of the Protonated UVA Filter Avobenzone

Avobenzone (AB) is a widely used UVA filter known to undergo irreversible photodegradation. Here, we investigate the detailed pathways by which AB photodegrades by applying UV laser-interfaced mass spectrometry to protonated AB ions. Gas-phase infrared multiple-photon dissociation (IRMPD) spectra obtained with the free electron laser for infrared experiments, FELIX, (600–1800 cm^–1) are also presented to confirm the geometric structures. The UV gas-phase absorption spectrum (2.5–5 eV) of protonated AB contains bands that correspond to selective excitation of either the enol or diketo forms, allowing us to probe the resulting, tautomer-dependent photochemistry. Numerous photofragments (i.e., photodegradants) are directly identified for the first time, with m/z 135 and 161 dominating, and m/z 146 and 177 also appearing prominently. Analysis of the production spectra of these photofragments reveals that that strong enol to keto photoisomerism is occurring, and that protonation significantly disrupts the stability of the enol (UVA active) tautomer. Close comparison of fragment ion yields with the TD-DFT-calculated absorption spectra give detailed information on the location and identity of the dissociative excited state surfaces, and thus provide new insight into the photodegradation pathways of avobenzone, and photoisomerization of the wider class of β-diketone containing molecules.

Identification of avobenzone by-products formed by various disinfectants in different types of swimming pool waters

The increased use of sunscreens and other cosmetics containing UV filters causes human and environmental burden. Avobenzone is a widely used UV filter. In its pure form it is known to undergo several transformations including photo-isomerisation, photodegradation, and halogenation. Over 60 disinfection by-products were identified as transformation products of avobenzone in different disinfection reactions of chlorination and bromination in fresh and seawater. Two occasional samples of swimming pool water demonstrated the presence of some of these by-products at noticeable levels as judged by GC-MS peak areas. Although the toxicity of the majority of these products remain unknown, chlorinated phenols and acetophenones are known to be rather toxic. Aquatic bromination of avobenzone resulted in the identification of 33 disinfection by-products (DBPs). Many of them contain bromine in the molecular structure. Addition of copper salt slightly decreases conversion rate simultaneously increasing the levels of major brominated products. Photostability of 3 commercial sunscreen products (solar protection factor 30) containing avobenzone was studied under different experimental conditions including UVA/UVB, UVC photostimulation and chlorination. The commercial sunscreen products have completely different enhancing and inhibitory effect on avobenzone degradation under UVC light. The complex composition of commercial products caused also a protective shield in case of chlorinated solutions of commercial formulations exposed to chlorine and UVA/UVB light at the same time.

Development of an Innovative and Eco-Friendly UV Radiation Absorber, Based on Furan Moieties

The increasing concern about the environmental impact of ingredients largely used as sunscreens today is pushing research towards new frontiers for the synthesis and degradation potential of innovative sun protection structures. This study deals with the design, synthesis, efficacy evaluation, and environmental impact of new photo-stable molecules at extended electronic conjugation and which have the ‘charge-transfer’ type of optical transition (push and pull). They efficiently perform absorption of electro-magnetic radiation in the UVB and UVA regions. A preliminary screening, dealing with a whole series of aromatic donors, led to the selection of a key substrate derived from waste material, provided with low environmental impact and largely available on the market. As far as the acceptor was concerned, an ester with cyan-acrylic structure and functionalized with aliphatic chains emerged as the most suitable. This allowed a shift of the λ of absorption in the range of the ultraviolet wavelengths. The synthesis procedures include an acid-catalyst-fitted esterification, condensation, and cold crystallization. It was continuously monitored with suitable characterization instruments (GC-MS, 1H NMR, 13C NMR), in order to avoid by-products and parasitic reactions. The resulting structures (patent pending) are composed by a furan core condensed with cyano-acrylic esters, derivatized with branched chains of hydrocarbons of medium length. The obtained structures are capable of good absorption in the range of wavelengths between 300 and 400 nm. Because of their structures, the new molecules are largely soluble in many common oils and cosmetic ingredients. The new molecules have been successively evaluated in terms of photo-stability, biodegradability, compatibility, and UVB-UVA protection capability, both in-vivo and in-vitro, in comparison with existing sunscreens.

Insights into the photoprotection mechanism of the UV filter homosalate

Homosalate has been found to exhibit favourable photophysics for inclusion in sunscreens, using a combination of spectroscopic and computational approaches.

Effects of solvent and micellar encapsulation on the photostability of avobenzone

Avobenzone, the only UVA-absorbing molecule approved for use in sunscreens by the FDA, degrades to its diketone structure under UV light. We found that this photoisomerization is effectively prevented when avobenzone is sequestered in micelles.

Investigating partitioning of free versus macrocycle bound guest into a model POPC lipid bilayer

We report on the permeation of free and macrocycle-bound avobenzone across a POPC lipid bilayer through combined neutron reflectometry experiments and molecular dynamics simulations. Results indicate that the p-phosphonated calix[8]arene macrocycle limits the avobenzone penetration into the upper leaflet of the membrane. Hence, it could serve as a useful vehicle for safer formulations.

We report on the permeation of free and macrocycle-bound avobenzone across a POPC lipid bilayer through combined neutron reflectometry experiments and molecular dynamics simulations.

Photostability of Topical Agents Applied to the Skin: A Review

Topical treatment modalities have multiple advantages starting with the convenient application and non-invasive treatment and ending with the reduction of the risk of the systemic side effects. Active pharmaceutical substances must reach the desired concentration at the target site in order to produce a particular therapeutic effect. In contrast to other dosage forms topical agents applied to the skin may also be susceptible to photodegradation after application. That is why the knowledge of the susceptibility of these topical drugs to UV irradiation, which may contribute to their degradation or changes in chemical structure, is very important. Active pharmaceutical substances used in dermatology may differ both in chemical structure and photostability. Furthermore, various factors-such as light intensity and wavelength, pH, temperature, concentration-can influence the photodegradation process, which is reflected in particular in kinetics of photodegradation of active pharmaceutical substances as well as both the quantitative and qualitative composition of by-products. The aim of this study was to conduct a systematic review of the photostability of dermatological drugs, as well as of other substances commonly applied topically. The photostability of glucocorticosteroids, retinoids, and antifungal drugs as well as non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drugs applied topically and selected UV-filters have been discussed. Furthermore, the impact of photoinstability on the effectiveness of pharmacotherapy and some photostabilization strategies have been also included.

Investigation of different photochemical reactions of avobenzone derivatives by ultrafast transient absorption spectroscopy

Avobenzone (AB) is one of the most widely used UVA sunscreens, and it is viewed as a model compound for studying the photoisomerization process. In recent years, Miranda and co-workers studied photophysical and photochemical reactions of several AB derivatives. However, there is still a gap in the data of these compounds in the ultrafast time region. To get a better understanding of the photophysical and photochemical reaction mechanisms, selected AB derivatives of AB-Me, AB-Pr, AB-Br and AB-Cl were studied using ultrafast transient absorption spectroscopy and density functional theory calculations in the present study. It is unravelled that alkylated substituted AB compounds of AB-Me and AB-Pr exhibit an efficient intersystem crossing with the generation of the corresponding triplet state species, which further leads to the Norrish type II reaction for AB-Pr. On the other hand, AB-Br and AB-Cl prefer photochemical reactions via the singlet state surface. Based on the DFT calculations, the spin-orbit coupling constant between the singlet and triplet states, the energy difference between the singlet and triplet states and the natural transition orbital separations of the studied AB compounds were found to be the leading reasons accounting for their corresponding photochemical activities via singlet and triplet states.

Crystallization Velocity and UV Performance of Formulations With Oversaturated UV-Filter Content

Cosmetic oils are used to dissolve crystalline lipophilic UV filters; however, little knowledge exists about the effect of other formulation ingredients. This study investigates the influence of emulsifiers on the recrystallization speed of 4 UV filters and the impact of UV-filter crystal formation on delivered performance. The crystallization pattern of studied UV filters was assessed using X-ray diffractometry, whereas their recrystallization speed in formulations with various emulsifiers was monitored microscopically. UV-filter concentration was above the saturation level to promote recrystallization. Furthermore, to understand the kinetics of recrystallization, the conformer number of each UV-filter was calculated. For the impact on performance, the absorbance of a sunscreen was measured before and after recrystallization of the contained UV filter. This study confirmed the crystallinity of tested UV filters. The emulsifier was shown to influence the UV-filter recrystallization speed in emulsions. Continuous oil phase sunscreens were critical; all UV filters recrystallized promptly in oils and water-in-oil emulsions. Large molecule UV filters showed slowest recrystallization speed explained by a higher number of possible conformers. Finally, this work confirmed the negative impact of crystal formation on the delivered photoprotection of a sunscreen.

Glutathione as a photo-stabilizer of avobenzone: an evaluation under glass-filtered sunlight using UV-spectroscopy

Avobenzone is the most widely used UVA filter in sunscreen lotion and it is prone to degradation in the presence of sunlight/UV radiation. To overcome the photo-instability of avobenzone, various photostabilizers have been used as additives, including antioxidants such as vitamin C, vitamin E, and ubiquinone. In the present study, the well known antioxidant, glutathione, was evaluated for protecting avobenzone from photodegradation in the presence of glass-filtered sunlight. The features of glutathione as a skin whitener and a radical scavenger in cells have prompted the assessment of the photostabilzing activity of glutathione on avobenzone. Glutathione significantly attenuated the glass-filtered sunlight-induced degradation of avobenzone at equimolar or higher ratios of glutathione and avobenzone. Mutational studies have been undertaken to investigate the role of the thiol group and the isopeptide bond of glutathione on its photoprotection activity towards avobenzone. The thiol group of glutathione plays a vital role in exhibiting the photoprotection activity, which was further supported by the studies on photodegradation of avobonzone in the presence of β-mercaptoethanol. The dual role of glutathione as a skin whitening agent and a photostabilizer of avobenzone may be useful for the development of multipurpose cosmetic lotions.

Photophysics of a UV-B Filter 4-Methylbenzylidene Camphor: Intersystem Crossing Plays an Important Role

4-Methylbenzylidene camphor (4MBC) is a frequently used ultraviolet (UV) filter in commercial sunscreens, which is experimentally found to undergo efficient intersystem crossing to triplet manifolds followed by predominant radiationless decay to the ground state. However, its photophysical mechanism is unclear. Herein, we have employed combined CASPT2 and CASSCF methods to study the spectroscopic properties, geometric and electronic structures, conical intersections and crossing points, and excited-state deactivation channels of 4MBC. We have found that the V(¹ ππ*) state is populated with large probability in the Franck-Condon region. Starting from this state, there are two efficient nonradiative relaxation processes to populate the ³ ππ* state. In the first one, the V(¹ ππ*) state decays to the V'(¹ ππ*) state. The resultant V'(¹ ππ*) state further jumps to the ¹ nπ* state by internal conversion at the ¹ ππ*/¹ nπ* conical intersection. Then, the ¹ nπ* state hops to the ³ ππ* state through an efficient ¹ nπ*→³ ππ* intersystem crossing process. In the second one, the V(¹ ππ*) state can diabatically relax along the photoisomerization reaction coordinate. In this process, a ¹ ππ*/³ nπ* crossing point helps the ¹ ππ* system decay to the ³ nπ* state, which further decays to the ³ ππ* state through internal conversion at the ³ nπ*/³ ππ* conical intersection. Once the ³ ππ* state is formed, a nearly barrierless relaxation path drives the ³ ππ* system to hop to the S₀ state via the ³ ππ*/S₀ crossing point. Our current work not only rationalizes recent experimental observations but also enriches our photophysical knowledge of UV filters.

Nonradiative dynamics determined by charge transfer induced hydrogen bonding: a combined femtosecond time-resolved fluorescence and density functional theoretical study of methyl dimethylaminobenzoate in water

Hydrogen bonding with water alters nonradiative pathway of a twisted charge transfer state in methyl dimethylaminobenzoate.

Stability Study of Sunscreens with Free and Encapsulated UV Filters Contained in Plastic Packaging

Sunscreens play a fundamental role in skin cancer prevention and in protection against photo-aging. UV filters are often photo-unstable, especially in relation to their vehicles and, being lipophilic substances, they are able to interact with plastic packaging. Finally, UV filter stability can be significantly affected by the routine use of the product at high temperatures. This work aims to study the stability of sunscreen formulations in polyethylene packaging. Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane and octocrylene, both in a free form and as encapsulated filters were chosen as UV filters. Stability evaluations were performed both in the packaging and on the formulations. Moreover, a further two non-destructive techniques, near-infrared (NIR) spectroscopy and a multiple light scattering technique, were also used to evaluate the stability of the formulation. Results demonstrated clearly that all of the pack underwent significant changes in its elastic/plastic behavior and in external color after solar irradiation. From the evaluation of the extractable profile of untreated and treated packaging material an absorption of 2-phenoxyethanol and octocrylene were shown. In conclusion, the results highlighted clearly that a reduction of the UV filter in the formulation packed in high-density polyethylene/low-density polyethylene (HDPE/LDPE) material can occur over time, reducing the protective effect of the product when applied to the skin.

A Perspective on the Ultrafast Photochemistry of Solution-Phase Sunscreen Molecules

Sunscreens are one of the most common ways of providing on-demand additional photoprotection to the skin. Ultrafast transient absorption spectroscopy has recently proven to be an invaluable tool in understanding how the components of commercial sunscreen products display efficient photoprotection. Important examples of how this technique has unravelled the photodynamics of common components are given in this Perspective, and some of the remaining unanswered questions are discussed.

Transformation of avobenzone in conditions of aquatic chlorination and UV-irradiation

Emerging contaminants represent a wide group of the most different compounds. They appear in the environment at trace levels due to human activity. Most of these compounds are not yet regulated. Sunscreen UV-filters play an important role among these emerging contaminants. In the present research the reactions of 4-tert-butyl-4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane (avobenzone), the most common UV filter in the formulation of sunscreens, were studied under the combined influence of active chlorine and UV-irradiation. Twenty five compounds were identified by GC/MS as transformation products of avobenzone in reactions of aquatic UV-irradiation and chlorination with sodium hypochlorite. A complete scheme of transformation of avobenzone covering all the semivolatile products is proposed. The identification of the two primary chlorination products (2-chloro-1-(4-tert-butylphenyl)-3-(4-methoxyphenyl)-1,3-propanedione and 2,2-dichloro-1-(4-tert-butylphenyl)-3-(4-methoxyphenyl)-1,3-propanedione) was confirmed by their synthesis and GC/MS and NMR analysis. Although the toxicities of the majority of these products remain unknown substituted chlorinated phenols and acetophenones are known to be rather toxic. Combined action of active chlorine and UV-irradiation results in the formation of some products (chloroanhydrides, chlorophenols) not forming in conditions of separate application of these disinfection methods. Therefore caring for people «well-being» it is of great importance to apply the most appropriate disinfection method. Since the primary transformation products partially resist powerful UV-C irradiation they may be treated as stable and persistent pollutants.