Keratin-water-NMF interaction as a three layer model in the human stratum corneum using in vivo confocal Raman microscopy

Evidence of the protective effect of anti-pollution products against oxidative stress in skin ex vivo using EPR spectroscopy and autofluorescence measurements

The concentration of air pollution is gradually increasing every year so that daily skin exposure is unavoidable. Dietary supplements and topical formulations currently represent the protective strategies to guard against the effects of air pollution on the body and the skin. Unfortunately, there are not yet enough methods available to measure the effectiveness of anti-pollution products on skin. Here, we present two ex vivo methods for measuring the protective effect against air pollution of different cream formulations on the skin: Electron paramagnetic resonance (EPR) spectroscopy and autofluorescence excited by 785 nm using a confocal Raman microspectrometer (CRM). Smoke from one cigarette was used as a model pollutant. EPR spectroscopy enables the direct measurement of free radicals in excised porcine skin after smoke exposure. The autofluorescence in the skin was measured ex vivo, which is an indicator of oxidative stress. Two antioxidants and a chelating agent in a base formulation and a commercial product containing an antioxidant mixture were investigated. The ex vivo studies show that the antioxidant epigallocatechin-3-gallate (EGCG) in the base cream formulation provided the best protection against oxidative stress from smoke exposure for both methods.

Composition and structure analysis of different depths in the stratum corneum using confocal Raman microscopy combined with two-dimensional correlation spectroscopy

The chemical composition and structure of the stratum corneum (SC) play a crucial role in the skin barrier function. Therefore, accurately determining the SC thickness and studying the changes in lipid and keratin structure and distribution within it are key aspects of skin barrier research. Currently, there are limited analytical tools and data analysis methods available for real-time and online studies of SC composition and structural changes. In this study, we focus on depth as a perturbation and employ confocal Raman microscopy combined with moving-window two-dimensional correlation spectroscopy (MW2D) technique to investigate the SC thickness. Additionally, we employ confocal Raman microscopy combined with perturbation-correlation moving-window two-dimensional correlation spectroscopy (PCMW2D) to precisely characterize the stratification of the SC. Furthermore, the two-dimensional correlation spectroscopy (2DCOS) method is utilized to examine the content of various conformations in the keratin secondary structure within the SC, as well as the subtle interrelationships between lipid and keratin structures.

Effect of Penetration Enhancer on the Structure of Stratum Corneum: On-Site Study by Confocal Polarized Raman Imaging

Keratin and lipid structures in the stratum corneum (SC) are closely related to the SC barrier function. The application of penetration enhancers (PEs) disrupts the structure of SC, thereby promoting infiltration. To quantify these PE-induced structural changes in SC, we used confocal Raman imaging (CRI) and polarized Raman imaging (PRI) to explore the integrity and continuity of keratin and lipid structures in SC. The results showed that water is the safest PE and that oleic acid (OA), sodium dodecyl sulfate (SDS), and low molecular weight protamine (LMWP) disrupted the ordered structure of keratin, while azone and liposomes had less of an effect on keratin. Azone, OA, and SDS also led to significant changes in lipid structure, while LMWP and liposomes had less of an effect. Establishing this non-invasive and efficient strategy will provide new insights into transdermal drug delivery and skin health management.

A sequential tape stripping approach for the assessment of the impact of personal cleansing products on the stratum corneum surface layers' acid mantle properties and antimicrobial defense

BACKGROUND

Stratum corneum (SC) plays a critical role in skin barrier function for protection and defense in nature. The acidic skin pH, which is also known as the acid mantle, is very important in fighting against outer environmental threats, especially, bacteria. Furthermore, recent research has shown that the transient bacteria could potentially penetrate into deeper layer of the SC down to a few micrometers while posing an additional threat to the deeper layers of the skin.

AIM

To develop a sequential tape stripping method for assessing the impact of personal cleansing product on the SC surface layers' acid mantle properties and antimicrobial defense against transient bacteria.

METHODS

Fifty-five subjects were recruited. High pH soap-based Product 1 and low pH synthetic surfactant-based Product 2 were applied on the left and right forearms of each subject. Sequential tape stripping was performed on the same spots to access multiple layers of the skin SC. Both antimicrobial defense property and skin pH of different skin layers were evaluated at baseline and 12 h after treatment.

RESULTS

The skin's antimicrobial defense was significantly higher 12 h after treatment of the low pH Product 2 as compared to the treatment of high pH Product 1. In fact, this trend was consistent across all three skin layers (Layer 1 to Layer 3) as measured in this study (p < 0.01). Furthermore, the skin surface pH of Layer 1 and Layer 3 were also lower 12 h after the treatment of low pH Product 2 as compared to that of the high pH Product 1 (p < 0.01).

CONCLUSION

The results of this investigation demonstrated the benefits of 12-h long lasting and deeper protection of SC acid mantle properties and antimicrobial defense using a low pH skin cleansing product as compared to a high pH product.

Quantification of skin penetration of caffeine and propylene glycol applied topically in a mixture by tailored multivariate curve resolution-alternating least squares of depth-resolved Raman spectra

The quantitative determination of topically applied substances in the skin is severely limited and represents a challenging task. The porcine skin ex vivo was topically treated with a gel containing caffeine (CF) and propylene glycol (PG), and depth-resolved Raman spectra were recorded with two confocal Raman microscopes. We applied a novel tailored multivariate curve resolution-alternating least squares method to the selected spectral regions (512-604 and 778-1148 cm-1 ) of gel-treated skin and quantitatively determined the concentrations of CF and PG in the stratum corneum (SC). The highest concentration of CF (181 mg/cm3 ) was found at the surface, while PG (384 mg/cm3 ) was found at 10% SC depth, indicating the formation of a reservoir at the superficial SC. The concentrations of CF and PG decreased monotonically and reached the detection limit at ≈60% and ≈80% SC depth, respectively, indicating that neither permeate the SC.

Application of Infrared and Near-Infrared Microspectroscopy to Microplastic Human Exposure Measurements

Microplastic pollution is a global issue for the environment and human health. The potential for human exposure to microplastic through drinking water, dust, food, and air raises concern, since experimental in vitro and in vivo toxicology studies suggest there is a level of hazard associated with high microplastic concentrations. However, to infer the likelihood of hazards manifesting in the human population, a robust understanding of exposure concentrations is needed. Infrared and near-infrared microspectroscopies have routinely been used to analyze microplastic in different exposure matrices (air, dust, food, and water), with technological advances coupling multivariate and machine learning algorithms to spectral data. This focal point article will highlight the application of infrared and Raman modes of spectroscopy to detect, characterize, and quantify microplastic particles, with a focus on human exposure to microplastic. Methodologies and state-of-the-art approaches will be reported and potential confounding variables and challenges in microplastic analysis discussed. The article provides an up-to-date review of the literature on microplastic exposure measurement using (near) infrared spectroscopies as an analytical tool, highlighting the recent advances in this rapidly advancing field.

Altered structure indicating reduced barrier function of lesional compared to non-lesional psoriatic skin-A non-invasive in vivo study of the human stratum corneum with confocal Raman micro-spectroscopy

Psoriasis, one of the most common skin diseases affecting roughly 2%-3% of the world population, is associated with a reduced skin barrier function (SBF) that might play an important role in its pathophysiology. The SBF is provided primarily by the stratum corneum (SC) of the skin. Previous studies have revealed a higher trans-epidermal water loss, lower hydration, abnormal concentration and composition of intercellular lipids, as well as alterations in secondary keratin structure in the psoriatic SC. We compared on molecular level lesional psoriatic skin (LPS) with non-lesional psoriatic skin (nLPS) from 19 patients non-invasively in vivo, using confocal Raman micro-spectroscopy. By analysing the corresponding Raman spectra, we determined SBF-defining parameters of the SC depth-dependently. Our results revealed a lower total lipid concentration, a shift of lamellar lipid organisation towards more gauche-conformers and an increase of the less dense hexagonal lateral packing of the intercellular lipids in LPS. Furthermore, we observed lower natural moisturising factor concentration, lower total water as well as a strong tendency towards less strongly bound and more weakly bound water molecules in LPS. Finally, we detected a less stable secondary keratin structure with increased β-sheets, in contrast to the tertiary structure, showing a higher degree of folded keratin in LPS. These findings clearly suggest structural differences indicating a reduced SBF in LPS, and are discussed in juxtaposition to preceding outcomes for psoriatic and healthy skin. Understanding the alterations of the psoriatic SC provides insights into the exact pathophysiology of psoriasis and paves the way for optimal future treatments.

Raman spectroscopy and mass spectrometry identifies a unique group of epidermal lipids in active discoid lupus erythematosus

Discoid lupus erythematosus (DLE) is the most common form of cutaneous lupus1. It can cause permanent scarring. The pathophysiology of is not fully understood. Plasmacytoid dendritic cells are found in close association with apoptotic keratinocytes inferring close cellular signalling. Matrix Associated Laser Desorption Ionisation (MALDI) combined with Fourier Transform Ion Cyclotron Resonance Mass Spectrometry (FT-ICR-MS) is an exquisitely sensitive combination to examine disease processes at the cellular and molecular level. Active areas of discoid lupus erythematosus were compared with normal perilesional skin using MALDI combined with FT-ICR-MS. A unique set of biomarkers, including epidermal lipids is identified in active discoid lupus. These were assigned as sphingomyelins, phospholipids and ceramides. Additionally, increased levels of proteins from the keratin, and small proline rich family, and aromatic amino acids (tryptophan, phenylalanine, and tyrosine) in the epidermis are observed. These techniques, applied to punch biopsies of the skin, have shown a distinctive lipid profile of active discoid lupus. This profile may indicate specific lipid signalling pathways. Lipid rich microdomains (known as lipid rafts) are involved in cell signalling and lipid abnormalities have been described with systemic lupus erythematosus which correlate with disease activity.

Atopic Dermatitis: Molecular Alterations between Lesional and Non-Lesional Skin Determined Noninvasively by In Vivo Confocal Raman Microspectroscopy

Atopic dermatitis (AD)/atopic eczema is a chronic relapsing inflammatory skin disease affecting nearly 14% of the adult population. An important pathogenetic pillar in AD is the disrupted skin barrier function (SBF). The atopic stratum corneum (SC) has been examined using several methods, including Raman microspectroscopy, yet so far, there is no depth-dependent analysis over the entire SC thickness. Therefore, we recruited 21 AD patients (9 female, 12 male) and compared the lesional (LAS) with non-lesional atopic skin (nLAS) in vivo with confocal Raman microspectroscopy. Our results demonstrated decreased total intercellular lipid and carotenoid concentrations, as well as a shift towards decreased orthorhombic lateral lipid organisation in LAS. Further, we observed a lower concentration of natural moisturising factor (NMF) and a trend towards increased strongly bound and decreased weakly bound water in LAS. Finally, LAS showed an altered secondary and tertiary keratin structure, demonstrating a more folded keratin state than nLAS. The obtained results are discussed in comparison with healthy skin and yield detailed insights into the atopic SC structure. LAS clearly shows molecular alterations at certain SC depths compared with nLAS which imply a reduced SBF. A thorough understanding of these alterations provides useful information on the aetiology of AD and for the development/control of targeted topical therapies.

Topical dexpanthenol effects on physiological parameters of the stratum corneum by Confocal Raman Microspectroscopy

BACKGROUND

Topical use of dexpanthenol presents well-established moisturizing properties and maintenance and repair of the skin barrier function, however, its exact action mechanisms are not completely elucidated. In this context, Confocal Raman Microspectroscopy is an optical method that enables non-invasive and non-destructive in vivo analysis with the sensitive acquisition of molecular changes in different skin layers. Herein, the aim was to evaluate the effects of topical dexpanthenol on the components and physiological parameters of the stratum corneum (SC).

MATERIALS AND METHODS

Ten healthy female subjects underwent skin evaluation by means of a Confocal Raman Spectrometer Skin Analyzer 3510. Spectral data were obtained from the skin of the anterior forearm region, before and 2 h after applying a cosmetic formulation containing or not containing 5% dexpanthenol.

RESULTS

Semiquantitative analysis of the natural moisturizing factor showed a significant decrease in content after 2 h of topical dexpanthenol application, while the analysis of the lamellar organization of intercellular lipids and the secondary structure of keratin showed a significant increase in hexagonal organization of lipids at the first half of the SC and a significant increase in β-pleated sheet conformation of keratin.

CONCLUSION

Effects of topical dexpanthenol on SC suggest a contribution in increasing fluidity of both lipidic and protein components of the SC and are compatible with dexpanthenol activity in maintaining adequate physiological conditions and preventing transepidermal water loss. This study also contributes to the elucidation of action mechanisms and other concurrent biochemical processes.

Fourier-transform infrared spectroscopy: a universal optical sensing technique with auspicious application prospects in the diagnosis and management of autoimmune diseases

Autoimmune diseases (AIDs) are poorly understood clinical syndromes due to breakdown of immune tolerance towards specific types of self-antigens. They are generally associated with an inflammatory response mediated by lymphocytes T, autoantibodies or both. Ultimately, chronic inflammation culminates in tissue damages and clinical manifestations. AIDs affect 5% of the world population, and they represent the main cause of fatality in young to middle-aged females. In addition, the chronic nature of AIDs has a devastating impact on the patient's quality of life. It also places a heavy burden on the health care system. Establishing a rapid and accurate diagnosis is considered vital for an ideal medical management of these autoimmune disorders. However, for some AIDs, this task might be challenging. Vibrational spectroscopies, and more particularly Fourier-transform infrared (FTIR) spectroscopy, have emerged as universal analytical techniques with promising applications in the diagnosis of various types of malignancies and metabolic and infectious diseases. The high sensitivity of these optical sensing techniques and their minimal requirements for test reagents qualify them to be ideal analytical techniques. The aim of the current review is to explore the potential applications of FTIR spectroscopy in the diagnosis and management of most common AIDs. It also aims to demonstrate how this technique has contributed to deciphering the biochemical and physiopathological aspects of these chronic inflammatory diseases. The advantages that can be offered by this optical sensing technique over the traditional and gold standard methods used in the diagnosis of these autoimmune disorders have also been extensively discussed.

Human glabrous skin contains crystallized urea dendriform structures in the stratum corneum which affect the hydration levels

Glabrous skin is hair-free skin with a high density of sweat glands, which is found on the palms, and soles of mammalians, covered with a thick stratum corneum. Dry hands are often an occupational problem which deserves attention from dermatologists. Urea is found in the skin as a component of the natural moisturizing factor and of sweat. We report the discovery of dendrimer structures of crystalized urea in the stratum corneum of palmar glabrous skin using laser scanning microscopy. The chemical and structural nature of the urea crystallites was investigated in vivo by non-invasive techniques. The relation of crystallization to skin hydration was explored. We analysed the index finger, small finger and tenar palmar area of 18 study participants using non-invasive optical methods, such as laser scanning microscopy, Raman microspectroscopy and two-photon tomography. Skin hydration was measured using corneometry. Crystalline urea structures were found in the stratum corneum of about two-thirds of the participants. Participants with a higher density of crystallized urea structures exhibited a lower skin hydration. The chemical nature and the crystalline structure of the urea were confirmed by Raman microspectroscopy and by second harmonic generated signals in two-photon tomography. The presence of urea dendrimer crystals in the glabrous skin seems to reduce the water binding capacity leading to dry hands. These findings highlight a new direction in understanding the mechanisms leading to dry hands and open opportunities for the development of better moisturizers and hand disinfection products and for diagnostic of dry skin.

Current Development of Chemical Penetration Enhancers for Transdermal Insulin Delivery

The use of the transdermal delivery system has recently gained ample recognition due to the ability to deliver drug molecules across the skin membrane, serving as an alternative to conventional oral or injectable routes. Subcutaneous insulin injection is the mainstay treatment for diabetes mellitus which often leads to non-compliance among patients, especially in younger patients. Apart from its invasiveness, the long-term consequences of insulin injection cause the development of physical trauma, which includes lipohypertrophy at the site of administration, scarring, infection, and sometimes nerve damage. Hence, there is a quest for a better alternative to drug delivery that is non-invasive and easily adaptable. One of the potential solutions is the transdermal delivery method. However, the stratum corneum (the top layer of skin) is the greatest barrier in transporting large molecules like insulin. Therefore, various chemical enhancers have been proposed to promote stratum corneum permeability, or they are designed to increase the permeability of the full epidermis, such as the use of ionic liquid, peptides, chemical pre-treatment as well as packaging insulin with carriers or nanoparticles. In this review, the recent progress in the development of chemical enhancers for transdermal insulin delivery is discussed along with the possible mechanistic of action and the potential outlook on the proposed permeation approaches in comparison to other therapeutical drugs

Quantitative determination of concentration profiles of skin components and topically applied oils by tailored multivariate curve resolution-alternating least squares using in vivo confocal Raman micro-spectroscopy

The main components of the stratum corneum (SC), water, lipids, and proteins, are non-homogeneously distributed throughout the depth. The quantitative determination of their concentration profiles and penetration depth of topically applied substances are urgent topics of dermatological and cosmetic research. Confocal Raman micro-spectroscopy has distinct advantages when determining semi-quantitative concentrations of SC components and topically applied substances non-invasively and in vivo. In this work, we applied a tailored multivariate curve resolution-alternating least squares (tMCR-ALS) method to analyze Raman spectra of the SC in the 2000-4000 cm-1 region for quantitatively determining the concentrations of water, lipids, proteins, and topically applied oils using substance-related spectral loadings which were allowed to change depth-dependently from the SC's surface toward its bottom. tMCR-ALS makes matching of depth-dependent signal attenuation, that is, the normalization on keratin, unnecessary and requires only a few additional experiments for calibration - Raman spectra of the pure materials and their densities.

Arginine-fructose-glucose from red ginseng extract reduces stiffness of keratin fiber in corneocyte of skin

PURPOSE

The moisture content of the stratum corneum of the skin changes depending on the external environment. The structure of keratinous fiber protein in corneocyte of the skin changes depending on the amount of moisture. As the moisture decreases, the population of the alpha-helix increases, the beta-sheet deceases, and the stiffness increases accordingly. Here, we investigated the effect of humectants from ginseng on the keratin structure.

METHODS

Corneocyte was prepared from dry porcine skin with disc tape and measured through ATR-FT-IR. The signal from amide I of the keratin protein in corneocyte was detected, and the change in the ratio of alpha-helix and beta-sheet was calculated. The test samples were treated on the exfoliated corneocyte, and the degree of change was checked.

RESULT

Arginine-fructose-glucose (AFG)-enriched extract of red ginseng was effective in changing the keratin structure and was superior to humectants such as glycerin. However, arginine, mono sugar were not effective, and the AFG form in which two sugars were bound to one amino acid could perform its function.

CONCLUSION

The present study suggests that AFG, when applied to cosmetics, is expected to improve skin texture in a different way from existing moisturizers represented by glycerin by reducing the alpha-helix structure of corneocyte keratin.

Glycerol and natural sugar-derived complex modulate differentially stratum corneum water-binding properties and structural parameters in an in vitro Raman-desorption model

The epidermal protective functions are closely associated with skin hydration homeostasis. The understanding of different states of water binding is a rising concept in assessing topically applied formulations and their interaction within the stratum corneum (SC). In addition to global water content, primary bound water, partially bound water, and unbound water and barrier-related lipid lateral packing and protein secondary structure can be measured by Raman spectroscopy. This study aimed to establish an in vitro SC model to evaluate differences in the efficacy of a natural sugar-derived complex in combination with glycerol and a botanical extract in modulating SC water binding and structural proteins and barrier lipids. These compounds were selected due to their water-binding and soothing properties. The SC water profiles were assessed at the surface and in 8 μm SC depth. After a 12-hour hyperhydration and subsequent product incubation the measurements were performed during a 6 hours desiccation phase. The maximal water caption and the time until reaching a steady state are measured as well as water retention and resistance against water loss. Global water content, partially bound, and unbound water, as well as lipid and protein structures were assessed with confocal Raman microspectroscopy. Both the natural sugar-derived mixture and more pronounced, the same mixture with additional glycerol increased all three water-binding parameters at the surface and in 8 μm SC depth at the beginning and during the desiccation phase. Further addition of botanical extract did not result in an additional increase of the water-binding. All three formulations showed an increase in the lipid lateral packing values prevented the protein alteration as measured by β-sheets signal compared to blank. The present model is suited for screening studies comparing the specific effects of different compounds on hydration states. The natural sugar-derived mixture Aquaxyl showed evidence for an improvement of all SC hydration states, lipid and protein structure which was further enhanced by the addition of glycerol 5%. This improvement was evidenced at the surface and within the SC for all hydration-related parameters, and the lipid as well the protein structures. The addition of botanical extract phytoessence blue daisy did not show further improvement.

Modeling of composite sorption isotherm for stratum corneum

Equilibrium water sorption in stratum corneum (SC) is considered by treating it as a biocomposite with two main phases, namely, corneocytes and lipids. To validate the rule of mixtures for the individual phase sorption isotherms, a new flexible fitting model is introduced by accounting for characteristic features observed in the variations of the thermodynamic correction factors corresponding to the individual sorption isotherms. The comparison of the model fitting performance with that of the five-parameter Park's model shows a remarkably good ability to fit experimental data for different types of sorption isotherms. The effect of the lipids content on the variance of the composite sorption isotherm of stratum corneum is highlighted. The sensitivity analysis reveals that for the typical water content 20-30 wt%, which corresponds to the SC in a stable condition, the sensitivity of the composite sorption isotherm to the variation of the lipids content on dry basis is predominantly positive and sufficiently small. The good agreement observed between the experimental sorption isotherm for SC and the composite isotherm, which is based on the rule of mixtures for the individual phase sorption isotherms, yields a plausible conclusion (hypothesis) that the corneocytes-lipids mechanical interaction during unconstrained swelling of the SC membrane in the in vitro laboratory experiment is negligible.

Machine Learning Assisted Handheld Confocal Raman Micro-Spectroscopy for Identification of Clinically Relevant Atopic Eczema Biomarkers

Atopic dermatitis (AD) is a common chronic inflammatory skin dermatosis condition due to skin barrier dysfunction that causes itchy, red, swollen, and cracked skin. Currently, AD severity clinical scores are subjected to intra- and inter-observer differences. There is a need for an objective scoring method that is sensitive to skin barrier differences. The aim of this study was to evaluate the relevant skin chemical biomarkers in AD patients. We used confocal Raman micro-spectroscopy and advanced machine learning methods as means to classify eczema patients and healthy controls with sufficient sensitivity and specificity. Raman spectra at different skin depths were acquired from subjects’ lower volar forearm location using an in-house developed handheld confocal Raman micro-spectroscopy system. The Raman spectra corresponding to the skin surface from all the subjects were further analyzed through partial least squares discriminant analysis, a binary classification model allowing the classification between eczema and healthy subjects with a sensitivity and specificity of 0.94 and 0.85, respectively, using stratified K-fold (K = 10) cross-validation. The variable importance in the projection score from the partial least squares discriminant analysis classification model further elucidated the role of important stratum corneum proteins and lipids in distinguishing two subject groups.

Skin Minerals: Key Roles of Inorganic Elements in Skin Physiological Functions

As odd as it may seem at first glance, minerals, it is what we are all about…or nearly. Although life on Earth is carbon-based, several other elements present in the planet’s crust are involved in and often indispensable for functioning of living organisms. Many ions are essential, and others show supportive and accessory qualities. They are operative in the skin, supporting specific processes related to the particular situation of this organ at the interface with the environment. Skin bioenergetics, redox balance, epidermal barrier function, and dermal remodeling are amongst crucial activities guided by or taking advantage of mineral elements. Skin regenerative processes and skin ageing can be positively impacted by adequate accessibility, distribution, and balance of inorganic ions.

Skin Care Product Rich in Antioxidants and Anti-Inflammatory Natural Compounds Reduces Itching and Inflammation in the Skin of Atopic Dermatitis Patients

The atopic dermatitis (AD) complex pathogenesis mechanism reveals marked changes of certain signaling factors as well as some morphological alterations in the epidermis. Reduced resilience against environmental factors and oxidative stress often makes the treatment with corticosteroids or tacrolismus ointments indispensable. In view of the correlation between oxidative stress and AD pathological factors, antioxidants can be incorporated into AD management strategies. This study investigates a curly kale, apple and green tea-containing natural extract rich in antioxidants for its effects on signaling inflammatory molecules and skin barrier enhancement in human epidermal keratinocytes- (NHEKs) based cell assays. Furthermore, the skin penetration on porcine ears was measured ex vivo using Raman micro spectroscopy. Finally, in a double-blind half-side, placebo-controlled clinical study, the effects of a formulation containing this extract were analyzed for the influence of lesion severity, epidermal barrier function, and pruritus in mild to moderately AD patients. Summarizing our results: The extract reduces expression of inflammatory cytokines in keratinocytes and increases barrier-related molecules. The verum formulation with a very high antioxidant capacity used in AD patients with mild to moderate lesions reduces itching, local SCORAD, and improves barrier function and the hydration of skin lesions.

Mechanisms and Implications of Bacterial Invasion across the Human Skin Barrier

Atopic dermatitis (AD) is associated with a deficiency of skin lipids, increased populations of Staphylococcus aureus in the microbiome, and structural defects in the stratum corneum (SC), the outermost layer of human skin. However, the pathogenesis of AD is ambiguous, as it is unclear whether observed changes are the result of AD or contribute to the pathogenesis of the disease. Previous studies have shown that S. aureus is capable of permeating across isolated human SC tissue when lipids are depleted to levels consistent with AD conditions. In this study, we expand upon this discovery to determine the mechanisms and implications of bacterial penetration into the SC barrier. Specifically, we establish if bacteria are permeating intercellularly or employing a combination of both inter- and intracellular travel. The mechanical implications of bacterial invasion, lipid depletion, and media immersion are also evaluated using a newly developed, physiologically relevant, temperature-controlled drip chamber. Results reveal for the first time that S. aureus can be internalized by corneocytes, indicating transcellular movement through the tissue during permeation, consistent with previous theoretical models. S. aureus also degrades the mechanical integrity of human SC, particularly when the tissue is partially depleted of lipids. These observed mechanical changes are likely the cause of broken or ruptured tissue seen as exudative lesions in AD flares. This work further highlights the necessity of lipids in skin microbial barrier function.

IMPORTANCE Millions of people suffer from the chronic inflammatory skin disease atopic dermatitis (AD), whose symptoms are associated with a deficiency of skin lipids that exhibit antimicrobial functions and increased populations of the opportunistic pathogen Staphylococcus aureus. However, the pathogenesis of AD is ambiguous, and it remains unclear if these observed changes are merely the result of AD or contribute to the pathogenesis of the disease. In this article, we demonstrate the necessity of skin lipids in preventing S. aureus from penetrating the outermost barrier of human skin, thereby causing a degradation in tissue integrity. This bacterial permeation into the viable epidermis could act as an inflammatory trigger of the disease. When coupled with delipidated AD tissue conditions, bacterial permeation can also explain increased tissue fragility, potentially causing lesion formation in AD patients that results in further enhancing bacterial permeability across the stratum corneum and the development of chronic conditions.

Safety and efficacy of combined essential oils for the skin barrier properties: In vitro, ex vivo and clinical studies

OBJECTIVE

To evaluate the safety and the synergistic effects of tea tree, lavender, eucalyptus and tangerine essential oils in combination on the skin using in vitro, ex vivo and clinical studies.

METHODS

The phototoxicity was predicted using 3T3 neutral red uptake phototoxicity test (OECD TG 432). Skin penetration was evaluated by confocal Raman microspectroscopy using direct application of essential oils to pig ears. For the clinical studies, 40 participants were enrolled and randomized in three groups: (1) lavender, eucalyptus and tangerine, (2) the same essential oils plus melaleuca and (3) placebo group. The skin was evaluated by noninvasive techniques before and after a 90-day period of topical use.

RESULTS

The essential oils were non-phototoxic, but the tangerine oil showed dose-dependent cytotoxicity (IC50: 33.1 µg/ml), presenting 35% of penetration in the viable epidermis. On the contrary, 17.7 µg/ml in combination was applied per day in the clinical study and the penetration rate for the combinations (10%, 1.77 µg/ml achieving the viable epidermis) guaranteed the safety, since in the clinical study, the application of the four essential oils improved skin barrier and morphologic skin characteristics, as well as increased skin hydration and decreased sebum levels, with no unwanted effects reported.

CONCLUSIONS

All essential oils studied were considered non-cytotoxic or non-phototoxic separately except tangerine, which present a dose-dependent cytotoxicity. Finally, the essential oils in combination in an appropriate amount were safe and effective in the improvement of the hydrolipidic balance and morphological properties of the skin.

Current views on non-invasive in vivo determination of physiological parameters of the stratum corneum using confocal Raman microspectroscopy

Confocal Raman microspectroscopy is widely used in dermatology and cosmetology for analysis of the concentration of skin components (lipids, natural moisturizing factor molecules, water) and the penetration depth of cosmetic/medical formulations in the human stratum corneum (SC) in vivo. In recent years, it was shown that confocal Raman microspectroscopy can also be used for non-invasive in vivo depth-dependent determination of the physiological parameters of the SC, such as lamellar and lateral organization of intercellular lipids, folding properties of keratin, water mobility and hydrogen bonding states. The results showed that the strongest skin barrier function, which is primarily manifested by the orthorhombic organization of intercellular lipids, is provided at ≈20-40% SC depth, which is related to the maximal bonding state of water with surrounding components in the SC. The secondary and tertiary structures of keratin determine water binding in the SC, which is depth-dependent. This paper shows the technical possibility and advantage of confocal Raman microspectroscopy in non-invasive investigation of the skin and summarizes recent results on in vivo investigation of the human SC.

Application of three-dimensional Raman imaging to determination of the relationship between cellular localization of diesel exhaust particles and the toxicity

A diesel exhaust particle (DEP) is a type of particulate matter that is easily produced from combustion in a diesel power engine. It has been reported that DEPs can cause short- and long-term health problems. This is because DEPs are complex mixtures that are highly inhalable through the airways due to their small particle size. However, the relationship between intracellular localization of DEPs after their deposition in the lungs and the subsequent biological responses remains to be clarified. This is due to difficulties in distinguishing particles that are inside the cells from those that are outside. In this study, A549 human lung epithelial cells were exposed to DEPs at concentrations of 0, 25, 75, or 200 µg/mL for different periods, after that particles in the A549 cells were analyzed by three-dimensional (3D) images obtained from a Raman microscope. The cytotoxic effects of DEPs on the A549 cells were investigated by measuring cell viability, the levels of intracellular reactive oxygen species (ROS) and cell death. The Raman microscopy revealed that the particles invaded the A549 cells, and at a concentration of 200 µg/mL, they markedly decreased cell viability, increased intracellular ROS production, triggered late apoptosis/necrosis and induced nuclear damage. These results suggest that intracellular DEPs exposed at a high concentration may be highly toxic and can impair the viability of A549 cells. Furthermore, the 3D images from the Raman microscopy can be used to evaluate intracellular particle dynamics.

Stratum Corneum Function: A Structural Study with Dynamic Synchrotron X-ray Diffraction Experiments

Studies on the effectiveness of substances such as drugs and cosmetics that act on the skin require structural evidence at the molecular level in the stratum corneum to clarify their interaction with intercellular lipid and soft keratin. For this purpose, when applying the substances to the stratum corneum X-ray diffraction experiment is one of the powerful tools. To detect minute structural changes in a stratum corneum sample, using a "solution cell", dynamic synchrotron X-ray diffraction measurements were performed when applying aqueous solution of the substances to the stratum corneum: (1) It was found that a surfactant, sodium dodecyl sulfate, significantly disrupted the long-period lamellar structure. (2) To study the effects of water, structural modifications of the short-period lamellar structure and the soft keratin in corneocytes were measured as a function of time. At the initial water content of 15 wt%, the spacings of the short-period lamellar structure and the soft keratin increased toward those at the water content of 25 wt%, that is a key water content in the stratum corneum. (3) Nanoparticles composed of assembly of amphiphilic molecules are one of the leading pharmaceutical formulations. When the nanoparticles were applied, a new assembly of amphiphilic molecules originated from the nanoparticle appeared. This phenomenon suggests that the formation of the new assembly at the surface of skin is concerned with the release of the drug from the nanoparticles. (4) When ethanol was applied to the stratum corneum, only the liquid state in the intercellular lipid matrix was dissolved. After the removal of ethanol from this stratum corneum, the ordered hydrocarbon-chain packing structures appeared. From this fact we would propose that the liquid state region is the main pathway for hydrophobic drugs with a small molecular weight in connection with the so-called 500 Da rule. Here, not only the technique but also the background to these studies and the characteristic results obtained from these studies are explained.

Biomolecular modifications during keratinocyte differentiation: Raman spectroscopy and chromatographic techniques

From the basal layer until the stratum corneum, lipid and protein biomarkers associated with morphological changes denote keratinocyte differentiation and characterize each epidermis layer. Herein, we followed keratinocyte differentiation in the early stages using HaCaT cells over a period of two weeks by two complementary analytical techniques: Raman microspectroscopy and high-performance liquid chromatography coupled with high resolution mass spectrometry. A high concentration of calcium in the medium induced HaCaT cell differentiation in vitro. The results from both techniques underlined the keratinocyte passage from the granular layer (day 9) to the stratum corneum layer (day 13). After 13 days of differentiation, we observed a strong increase in the lipid content, decrease in proteins, decrease in DNA, and a decrease in glucosylceramides/ceramides and sphingomyelins/ceramides ratios.

Investigation of water bonding status of normal and psoriatic skin in vivo using diffuse reflectance spectroscopy

Psoriasis affects more than 125 million people worldwide, and the diagnosis and treatment efficacy evaluation of the disease mainly rely on clinical assessments that could be subjective. Our previous study showed that the skin erythema level could be quantified using diffuse reflectance spectroscopy (DRS), and the hemoglobin concentration of most psoriatic lesion was higher than that of its adjacent uninvolved skin. While the compromised epidermal barrier function has been taken as the major cause of clinical manifestation of skin dryness and inflammation of psoriasis, very few methods can be used to effectively evaluate this function. In this study, we investigate the near infrared spectroscopic features of psoriatic (n = 21) and normal (n = 21) skin that could link to the epidermal barrier function. From the DRS measurements, it was found that the water bonding status and light scattering properties of psoriasis are significantly different from those of uninvolved or normal skin. The connection between these parameters to the epidermal barrier function and morphology will be discussed. Our results suggest that objective evaluation of epidermal barrier function of psoriasis could be achieved using a simple DRS system.

Enhanced nail delivery of voriconazole-loaded nanomicelles by thioglycolic acid pretreatment: A study of protein dynamics and disulfide bond rupture

This work aimed to select an effective penetration enhancer (PE) for nail pretreatment, develop voriconazole (VOR)-loaded nanomicelles, and evaluate their ability to deliver VOR to the nail. A complete analysis of nail protein dynamics, bond rupture, and microstructure was performed. Alternative methods as electron paramagnetic resonance (EPR) and the Ellman's reagent (DTNB) assay were also evaluated. Nanomicelles were produced and characterized. The PE hydrated the hooves, following the order: urea ≈ cysteine ≈ glycolic acid < thioglycolic acid (TGA) < NaOH. SEM images and methylene blue assay showed enlarged pores and roughness of porcine hooves after incubation with NaOH and TGA. EPR was demonstrated to be the most sensitive technique. DTNB assay quantified higher thiol groups for samples treated with TGA (p < 0.05). A stratigraphic analysis with Raman spectroscopy demonstrated that hooves treated with TGA presented a higher SH/SS ratio at the edges, affecting protein secondary structure. In vitro permeation studies demonstrated significant VOR permeation (29.44 ± 6.13 µg/cm²), 10-fold higher than previous studies with lipid nanoparticles. After TGA pretreatment, VOR permeation was further enhanced (3-fold). TGA pretreatment followed by VOR-loaded nanomicelles demonstrates a promising approach for onychomycosis treatment. The novel methods for protein analysis were straightforward and helpful.

Physiological activity of E. coli engineered to produce butyric acid

Faecalibacterium prausnitzii (F. prausnitzii) is one of the most abundant bacteria in the human intestine, with its anti‐inflammatory effects establishing it as a major effector in human intestinal health. However, its extreme sensitivity to oxygen makes its cultivation and physiological study difficult. F. prausnitzii produces butyric acid, which is beneficial to human gut health. Butyric acid is a short‐chain fatty acid (SCFA) produced by the fermentation of carbohydrates, such as dietary fibre in the large bowel. The genes encoding butyryl‐CoA dehydrogenase (BCD) and butyryl‐CoA:acetate CoA transferase (BUT) in F. prausnitzii were cloned and expressed in E. coli to determine the effect of butyric acid production on intestinal health using DSS‐induced colitis model mice. The results from the E. coli Nissle 1917 strain, expressing BCD, BUT, or both, showed that BCD was essential, while BUT was dispensable for producing butyric acid. The effects of different carbon sources, such as glucose, N‐acetylglucosamine (NAG), N‐acetylgalactosamine (NAGA), and inulin, were compared with results showing that the optimal carbon sources for butyric acid production were NAG, a major component of mucin in the human intestine, and glucose. Furthermore, the anti‐inflammatory effects of butyric acid production were tested by administering these strains to DSS‐induced colitis model mice. The oral administration of the E. coli Nissle 1917 strain, carrying the expression vector for BCD and BUT (EcN‐BCD‐BUT), was found to prevent DSS‐induced damage. Introduction of the BCD expression vector into E. coli Nissle 1917 led to increased butyric acid production, which improved the strain’s health‐beneficial effects.

Retaining Skin Barrier Function Properties of the Stratum Corneum with Components of the Natural Moisturizing Factor-A Randomized, Placebo-Controlled Double-Blind In Vivo Study

The influence of a topically applied formulation containing components of natural moisturizing factor (NMF) on barrier-related parameters of the stratum corneum (SC) was investigated in vivo using confocal Raman microspectroscopy in a randomized, placebo-controlled double-blind study on 12 volunteers for 14 days. This method allowed for the elucidation of subtle differences between the verum and the placebo even though the components of the verum naturally occur in the SC. This differentiation is not possible non-invasively by conventional methods. In this study, we found that the applied verum and placebo formulations disrupted the equilibrium of water, NMF and lipids in the SC. The adverse effects of the formulation could be mitigated by incorporating it into a simplified supplementation of NMF molecules. As a long-term effect, the amount of strongly bound water increases at 30–40% SC depth (p < 0.05) and the amount of weakly bound water decreases at 30–40% SC depth (p < 0.05) for the verum. This supplement was also unexpectedly able to prevent intercellular lipids (ICL) disorganization in selected depths. In the long term, the verum treatment limited the lateral disorganization of the ICL to the upper 20% SC depth. Further research is required to elucidate the interplay of these factors in the SC, to better understand their contribution to the equilibrium and barrier function of the skin. This understanding of the interaction of these naturally occurring components could help in the future to develop and optimize topical treatments for diseases like psoriasis, atopic dermatitis, ichthyosis where the skin barrier is disrupted.

Fiber-based SORS-SERDS system and chemometrics for the diagnostics and therapy monitoring of psoriasis inflammatory disease in vivo

Psoriasis is considered a widespread dermatological disease that can strongly affect the quality of life. Currently, the treatment is continued until the skin surface appears clinically healed. However, lesions appearing normal may contain modifications in deeper layers. To terminate the treatment too early can highly increase the risk of relapses. Therefore, techniques are needed for a better knowledge of the treatment process, especially to detect the lesion modifications in deeper layers. In this study, we developed a fiber-based SORS-SERDS system in combination with machine learning algorithms to non-invasively determine the treatment efficiency of psoriasis. The system was designed to acquire Raman spectra from three different depths into the skin, which provide rich information about the skin modifications in deeper layers. This way, it is expected to prevent the occurrence of relapses in case of a too short treatment. The method was verified with a study of 24 patients upon their two visits: the data is acquired at the beginning of a standard treatment (visit 1) and four months afterwards (visit 2). A mean sensitivity of ≥85% was achieved to distinguish psoriasis from normal skin at visit 1. At visit 2, where the patients were healed according to the clinical appearance, the mean sensitivity was ≈65%.

Moisturizing mechanism of glycerol and diglycerol on human stratum corneum studied by synchrotron X-ray diffraction

OBJECTIVE

Polyols are moisturizers used in cosmetics. Using X-ray diffraction, we studied the moisturizingmechanism of polyol solutions in the stratum corneum (SC). We examined whether glycerol disrupts the ordered hydrocarbon chain packing structure in isolated SC, as previously proposed in an SC lipid model.

METHODS

The SC samples were prepared by treatment with water and aqueous solutions of glycerol, diglycerol and glycerol/diglycerol. To examine the differences in the water-retention efficiency of polyols, using a solution cell, we performed dynamic X-ray diffraction to analyse the structural changes that occurred during water removal from the hydrated samples by a stream of dry nitrogen gas. We focused on two structures, the orthorhombic hydrocarbon chain packing structure in the intercellular lipids and the soft keratin in the corneocytes where most of the water is stored.

RESULTS

The spacing formed by the soft keratin in the corneocytes immersed in a solution of water and diglycerol solution decreased rapidly by water removal. In contrast, it decreased gradually in the corneocytes immersed in a solution of glycerol and glycerol/diglycerol, indicating that the glycerol-containing solutions maintained the hydrated state of the corneocytes for longer. Furthermore, the characteristic change of the spacing in the orthorhombic hydrocarbon chain packing structure over time was observed during the drying process. The hydrated state was maintained longer, in water, followed by glycerol, diglycerol and glycerol/diglycerol, in increasing order. This is the first study to report such characteristic properties that could be indicators of the capacity of the SC to regulate water.

CONCLUSION

The dynamic X-ray diffraction experiment on the structure of the soft keratin and the orthorhombic hydrocarbon chain packing structure during the drying of the hydrated SC provides an insight into the moisturizing mechanism of the polyol solutions in the SC. The results show that the glycerol/diglycerol solution functions as an effective SC moisturizer at the molecular level. Further, it was confirmed that the behaviour of glycerol in the isolated SC varies from that proposed in the SC lipid model, wherein glycerol was proposed to prevent the formation of a regular hydrocarbon chain packing structure.

Melanin distribution from the dermal-epidermal junction to the stratum corneum: non-invasive in vivo assessment by fluorescence and Raman microspectroscopy

The fate of melanin in the epidermis is of great interest due to its involvement in numerous physiological and pathological processes in the skin. Melanin localization can be assessed ex vivo and in vivo using its distinctive optical properties. Melanin exhibits a characteristic Raman spectrum band shape and discernible near-infrared excited (NIR) fluorescence. However, a detailed analysis of the capabilities of depth-resolved confocal Raman and fluorescence microspectroscopy in the evaluation of melanin distribution in the human skin is lacking. Here we demonstrate how the fraction of melanin at different depths in the human skin in vivo can be estimated from its Raman spectra (bands at 1,380 and 1,570 cm-1) using several procedures including a simple ratiometric approach, spectral decomposition and non-negative matrix factorization. The depth profiles of matrix factorization components specific to melanin, collagen and natural moisturizing factor provide information about their localization in the skin. The depth profile of the collagen-related matrix factorization component allows for precise determination of the dermal-epidermal junction, i.e. the epidermal thickness. Spectral features of fluorescence background originating from melanin were found to correlate with relative intensities of the melanin Raman bands. We also hypothesized that NIR fluorescence in the skin is not originated solely from melanin, and the possible impact of oxidized species should be taken into account. The ratio of melanin-related Raman bands at 1,380 and 1,570 cm-1 could be related to melanin molecular organization. The proposed combined analysis of the Raman scattering signal and NIR fluorescence could be a useful tool for rapid non-invasive in vivo diagnostics of melanin-related processes in the human skin.

Stratum corneum occlusion induces water transformation towards lower bonding state: a molecular level in vivo study by confocal Raman microspectroscopy

OBJECTIVE

It is conventionally understood that occlusive effects are the retention of excessive water in the stratum corneum (SC), the increase of SC thickness (swelling) and a decrease of the transepidermal water loss. However, the influence of occlusion on water binding properties in the SC is unknown.

METHODS

The action of plant-derived jojoba and almond oils, as well as mineral-derived paraffin oil and petrolatum topically applied on human skin, is investigated in vivo using confocal Raman microspectroscopy. To understand the oils' influence on the SC on the molecular level, the depth-dependent hydrogen bonding states of water in the SC and their relationship to the conformation of keratin, concentration of natural moisturizing factor (NMF) molecules and lipid organization were investigated.

RESULTS

A significant SC swelling was observed only in petrolatum-treated skin. The water concentration was increased in oil-treated skin in the intermediate SC region (40-70% SC depth). Meanwhile, the amount of free, weakly and tightly bound water increased, and strongly bound water decreased in the uppermost SC region (0-30% SC depth). The NMF concentration of oil-treated skin was significantly lower at 50-70% SC depth. The lateral organization of lipids in oil-treated skin was lower at 0-30% SC depth. The secondary structure of keratin was changed towards an increase of β-sheet content in mineral-derived oil-treated skin and changed towards an increase of α-helix content in plant-derived oil-treated skin.

CONCLUSION

The occlusive properties can be summarized as the increase of free water and the transformation of water from a more strongly to a more weakly hydrogen bonding state in the uppermost SC, although some oils cause insignificant changes of the SC thickness. The accompanied changes in the keratin conformation at the intermediate swelling region of the SC also emphasize the role of keratin in the SC's water-transporting system, that is the water in the SC transports intercellularly and intracellularly in the intermediate swelling region and only intercellularly in the uppermost non-swelling region. Bearing this in mind, almond, jojoba and paraffin oils, which are not occlusive from the conventional viewpoint, have an occlusion effect similar to petrolatum on the SC.

The application of label-free imaging technologies in transdermal research for deeper mechanism revealing

The penetration behavior of topical substances in the skin not only relates to the transdermal delivery efficiency but also involves the safety and therapeutic effect of topical products, such as sunscreen and hair growth products. Researchers have tried to illustrate the transdermal process with diversified theories and technologies. Directly observing the distribution of topical substances on skin by characteristic imaging is the most convincing approach. Unfortunately, fluorescence labeling imaging, which is commonly used in biochemical research, is limited for transdermal research for most topical substances with a molecular mass less than 500 Da. Label-free imaging technologies possess the advantages of not requiring any macromolecular dyes, no tissue destruction and an extensive substance detection capability, which has enabled rapid development of such technologies in recent years and their introduction to biological tissue analysis, such as skin samples. Through the specific identification of topical substances and endogenous tissue components, label-free imaging technologies can provide abundant tissue distribution information, enrich theoretical and practical guidance for transdermal drug delivery systems. In this review, we expound the mechanisms and applications of the most popular label-free imaging technologies in transdermal research at present, compare their advantages and disadvantages, and forecast development prospects.

Spectroscopy on the wing: Investigating possible differences in protein secondary structures in feather shafts of birds using Raman spectroscopy

The central shaft of a bird's flight feather bears most of the aerodynamic load during flight and exhibits some remarkable mechanical properties. The shaft comprises two parts, the calamus and the rachis. The calamus is at the base of the shaft, while the rachis is the longer upper part which supports the vanes. The shaft is composed of a fibrous outer cortex, and an inner foam-like core. Recent nanoindentation experiments have indicated that reduced modulus values, E_r, for the inner and outer regions of the cortex can vary, with the E_r values of the inner region slightly greater than those of the outer region. In this work, Raman spectroscopy is used to investigate the protein secondary structures in the inner and outer regions of the feather cortex. Analysis of the Amide I region of Raman spectra taken from four birds (Swan, Gull, Mallard and Kestrel) shows that the β-sheet structural component decreases between the inner and outer region, relative to the protein side-chain components. This finding is consistent with the proposal that E_r values are greater in the inner region than the outer region. This work has shown that Raman spectroscopy can be used effectively to study the change in protein secondary structure between the inner and outer regions of a feather shaft.

In vivo Raman spectroscopy study on the stimulation mechanism of surfactant

BACKGROUND

Surfactant is widely used in skin care products and cleansers, while it may cause physical discomfort. In this study, in vivo Raman spectroscopy was used to explore surfactant irritation mechanism on skin, which was not found in literature.

METHODS

Sodium dodecyl sulfate (SDS) was chosen to represent surfactant. Research on the negative effect of SDS was undertaken by scanning the two states of the skin (without and with the contact of SDS), respectively, on six volunteers, by means of Raman technique and skin magnifier.

RESULTS

The damage to the surface of normal skin by SDS was visible from the photographs taken by skin magnifier, and the apparent damage matched the damage that was happening underneath the skin elucidated by Raman spectra. Compared to the normal skin, the inter-cellular lipids (ICL) lateral packing order of the damaged skin was significantly reduced in 2-12 μm of skin depth (P < 0.05), deeper than 12 μm was not detected. The skin depth of 0-2 μm could not be determined due to strong interference of SDS. Significant change in the secondary and tertiary structures of keratin was not found.

The Oxidation-Induced Autofluorescence Hypothesis: Red Edge Excitation and Implications for Metabolic Imaging

Endogenous autofluorescence of biological tissues is an important source of information for biomedical diagnostics. Despite the molecular complexity of biological tissues, the list of commonly known fluorophores is strictly limited. Still, the question of molecular sources of the red and near-infrared excited autofluorescence remains open. In this work we demonstrated that the oxidation products of organic components (lipids, proteins, amino acids, etc.) can serve as the molecular source of such red and near-infrared excited autofluorescence. Using model solutions and cell systems (human keratinocytes) under oxidative stress induced by UV irradiation we demonstrated that oxidation products can contribute significantly to the autofluorescence signal of biological systems in the entire visible range of the spectrum, even at the emission and excitation wavelengths higher than 650 nm. The obtained results suggest the principal possibility to explain the red fluorescence excitation in a large class of biosystems-aggregates of proteins and peptides, cells and tissues-by the impact of oxidation products, since oxidation products are inevitably presented in the tissue. The observed fluorescence signal with broad excitation originated from oxidation products may also lead to the alteration of metabolic imaging results and has to be taken into account.

Therapeutic Interventions to Reduce Radiation Induced Dermal Injury in a Murine Model of Tissue Expander Based Breast Reconstruction

BACKGROUND

Radiation therapy (XRT) induced dermal injury disrupts type I collagen architecture. This impairs cutaneous viscoelasticity, which may contribute to the high rate of complications in expander-based breast reconstruction with adjuvant XRT. The objective of this study was to further elucidate the mechanism of radiation-induced dermal injury and to determine if amifostine (AMF) or deferoxamine (DFO) mitigates type I collagen injury in an irradiated murine model of expander-based breast reconstruction.

METHODS

Female Lewis rats (n = 20) were grouped: expander (control), expander-XRT (XRT), expander-XRT-AMF (AMF), and expander-XRT-DFO (DFO). Expanders were surgically placed. All XRT groups received 28 Gy of XRT. The AMF group received AMF 30 minutes before XRT, and the DFO group used a patch for delivery 5 days post-XRT. After a 20-day recovery period, skin was harvested. Atomic force microscopy and Raman spectroscopy were performed to evaluate type I collagen sheet organization and tissue compositional properties, respectively.

RESULTS

Type I collagen fibril disorganization was significantly increased in the XRT group compared with the control (83.8% vs 22.4%; P = 0.001). Collagen/matrix ratios were greatly reduced in the XRT group compared with the control group (0.49 ± 0.09 vs 0.66 ± 0.09; P = 0.017). Prophylactic AMF demonstrated a marked reduction in type I collagen fibril disorganization on atomic force microscopy (15.9% vs 83.8%; P = 0.001). In fact, AMF normalized type I collagen organization in irradiated tissues to the level of the nonirradiated control (P = 0.122). Based on Raman spectroscopy, both AMF and DFO demonstrated significant differential protective effects on expanded-irradiated tissues. Collagen/matrix ratios were significantly preserved in the AMF group compared with the XRT group (0.49 ± 0.09 vs 0.69 ± 0.10; P = 0.010). β-Sheet/α-helix ratios were significantly increased in the DFO group compared with the XRT group (1.76 ± 0.03 vs 1.86 ± 0.06; P = 0.038).

CONCLUSIONS

Amifostine resulted in a significant improvement in type I collagen fibril organization and collagen synthesis, whereas DFO mitigated abnormal changes in collagen secondary structure in an irradiated murine model of expander-based breast reconstruction. These therapeutics offer the ability to retain the native microarchitecture of type I collagen after radiation. Amifostine and DFO may offer clinical utility to reduce radiation induced dermal injury, potentially decreasing the high complication rate of expander-based breast reconstruction with adjuvant XRT and improving surgical outcomes.

A modification for the calculation of water depth profiles in oil-treated skin by in vivo confocal Raman microscopy

In this study, an extended calculation method for the determination of the water profiles in oil-treated skin is proposed, which is based on the calculation of the ratio between the Raman band intensities of water (3350-3550 cm^-1 ) and keratin Amide I at 1650 cm^-1 . The proposed method is compared with the conventional method based on the ratio of the Raman band intensities of water (3350-3550 cm^-1 ) and keratin at 2930 cm^-1 . The conventional method creates artifacts in the depth profiles of the water concentration in oil-treated skin, showing a lower amount of water in the upper and intermediate layers of the stratum corneum, which is due to the superposition of oil- and keratin-related Raman bands at 2930 cm^-1 . The proposed extended method shows no artifacts and has the potential to determine the water depth profiles after topical application of formulations on the skin.

Effect of iron and silica nanoparticles’ size on in vitro human skin binding and penetration

This in vitro skin study determined absorption, diffusion, and binding rates of four [14C]-labeled nanoparticles (NPs): 12 nm Fe3O4, 32 nm Fe3O4@SiO2, 33 nm SiO2, and 78 nm SiO2 in each layer of human cadaver skin. In vitro microdialysis device and flow-through skin diffusion system were used to measure the binding affinity to the stratum corneum (SC) and permeability into/through skin layer of the four NPs with different physical–chemical properties, respectively, in short (30 min) and/or long (24 hours) exposures. Results show that NP size is an important factor affecting NP percutaneous absorption. The 12 nm Fe3O4 NPs reached the SC and viable epidermis; 32 nm Fe3O4@SiO2 core/shell NPs only reached SC. However, 33 nm and 78 nm silica NPs did not permeate SC. Similar patterns were observed for NP binding affinity to SC and dermatopharmacokinetic analysis using the tape stripping method. The binding affinity determination may be a useful method to efficiently screen skin penetration of NPs.

In vivo Tracking of DNA for Precise Determination of the Stratum Corneum Thickness and Superficial Microbiome Using Confocal Raman Microscopy

The skin barrier function is mostly provided by the stratum corneum (SC), the uppermost layer of the epidermis. To noninvasively analyze the physiological properties of the skin barrier functionin vivo, it is important to determine the SC thickness. Confocal Raman microscopy (CRM) is widely used for this task. In the present in vivo study, a new method based on the determination of the DNA concentration profile using CRM is introduced for determining the SC thickness. The obtained SC thickness values are compared with those obtained using other CRM-based methods determining the water and lipid depth profiles. The obtained results show almost no significant differences in SC thickness for the utilized methods. Therefore, the results indicate that it is possible to calculate the SC thickness by using the DNA profile in the fingerprint region, which is comparable with the SC thickness calculated by the water depth profiles (ANOVA test p = 0.77) and the lipid depth profile (ANOVA test p = 0.74). This provides the possibility to measure the SC thickness by using the DNA profile, in case the water or lipid profile analyses are influenced by a topically applied formulation. The increase in DNA concentration in the superficial SC (0-2 µm) is related to the DNA presence in the microbiome of the skin, which was not present in the SC depth below 4 µm.

Toward Milder Personal Care Cleansing Products: Fast ex vivo Screening of Irritating Effects of Surfactants on Skin Using Raman Microscopy

We report a novel Raman technique that allows fast and reliable ex vivo assessment of the irritability of personal care cleansing products to the skin in terms of the molecular-level effects such as retention of water by corneocytes, change in the packing order and content of intercellular lipids, and the structure of keratin. We test this technique for the single surfactants (dodecyl glucoside, sodium dodecyl sulfate, sodium cocoyl glycinate, lauramidopropyl betaine) that are typically used in personal care, as well as on three types of commercial soap bars (“superfat”, “syndet”, and “combar”). We find that soaking of the skin for prolonged time in pure water can cause unfolding of keratin, which is commonly considered as a signature of “harshness” when dealing with the surfactant formulations. Moreover, molecular-level signatures of irritability of the test surfactants and soaps at brief (10 min) exposure times do not follow the trend expected from their critical micelle concentrations (CMC) and collagen swelling. In particular, dodecyl glucoside has positive impact on the barrier properties of the stratum corneum (SC) and apparent detergency properties (solubilizes lipids without affecting their packing order). We also find that two qualitatively different soap bars (“superfat” and “syndet”) are similarly mild under the conditions studied, while the “combar” soap has detergency properties. These results demonstrate that to improve methodology of predicting irritability of a surfactant-based formulation, we need to study more systematically the molecular-level responses of the SC to exposure.

The non-homogenous distribution and aggregation of carotenoids in the stratum corneum correlates with the organization of intercellular lipids in vivo

The human stratum corneum (SC) contains an abundant amount of carotenoid antioxidants, quenching free radicals and thereby protecting the skin. For the precise measurements of the depth-dependent carotenoid concentration, confocal Raman microscopy is a suitable method. The quantitative concentration can be determined by the carotenoid-related peak intensity of a Gaussian function approached at ≈1524 cm^-1 using non-linear regression. Results show that the carotenoid concentration is higher at the superficial layers of the SC then decreases to a minimum at 20% SC depth and increases again towards the bottom of the SC. In the present work, two carotenoid penetration pathways into the SC are postulated. The first pathway is from the stratum granulosum to the bottom of the SC, while in the second pathway, the carotenoids are delivered to the skin surface by sweat and/or sebum secretion and penetrate from outside. The carotenoids are aggregated at the superficial layers, which are shown by high correlation between the aggregation states of carotenoids and the lateral organization of lipids. At the 30%-40% SC depths, the ordered and dense lipid molecules intensify the lipid-carotenoid interactions and weaken the carotenoid-carotenoid interaction and thus exhibit the disaggregation of carotenoids. At 90%-100% SC depths, the carotenoid-lipid interaction is weakened and the carotenoids have a tendency to be aggregated. Thus, the molecular structural correlation of carotenoid and SC lipid might be reserved in the intercellular space of the SC and also serves as the skeleton of the intercellular lipids.

Unravelling effects of relative humidity on lipid barrier formation in human skin equivalents

Relative humidity (RH) levels vary continuously in vivo, although during in vitro generation of three-dimensional human skin equivalents (HSEs) these remain high (90-95%) to prevent evaporation of the cell-culture medium. However, skin functionality is directly influenced by environmental RH. As the barrier formation in HSEs is different, there is a need to better understand the role of cell-culture conditions during the generation of HSEs. In this study, we aim to investigate the effects of RH on epidermal morphogenesis and lipid barrier formation in HSEs. Therefore, two types of HSEs were developed at 90% or at 60% RH. Assessments were performed to determine epidermal morphogenesis by immunohistochemical analyses, ceramide composition by lipidomic analysis, and lipid organization by Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy and small-angle X-ray diffraction. We show that reduction of RH mainly affected the uppermost viable epidermal layers in the HSEs, including an enlargement of the granular cells and induction of epidermal cell activation. Neither the composition nor the organization of the lipids in the intercorneocyte space were substantially altered at reduced RH. In addition, lipid processing from glucosylceramides to ceramides was not affected by reduced RH in HSEs as shown by enzyme expression, enzyme activity, and substrate-to-product ratio. Our results demonstrate that RH directly influences epidermal morphogenesis, albeit the in vitro lipid barrier formation is comparable at 90% and 60% RH.

Label-Free Multiphoton Microscopy: The Origin of Fluorophores and Capabilities for Analyzing Biochemical Processes

Multiphoton microscopy (MPM) is a method of molecular imaging and specifically of intravital imaging that is characterized by high spatial resolution in combination with a greater depth of penetration into the tissue. MPM is a multimodal method based on detection of nonlinear optical signals - multiphoton fluorescence and optical harmonics - and also allows imaging with the use of the parameters of fluorescence decay kinetics. This review describes and discusses photophysical processes within major reporter molecules used in MPM with endogenous contrasts and summarizes several modern experiments that illustrate the capabilities of label-free MPM for molecular imaging of biochemical processes in connective tissue and cells.

Methods for Optical Skin Clearing in Molecular Optical Imaging in Dermatology

This short review describes recent progress in using optical clearing (OC) technique in skin studies. Optical clearing is an efficient tool for enhancing the probing depth and data quality in multiphoton microscopy and Raman spectroscopy. Here, we discuss the main mechanisms of OC, its safety, advantages, and limitations. The data on the OC effect on the skin water content are presented. It was demonstrated that 70% glycerol and 100% Omnipaque^TM 300 reduce the water content in the skin. Both OC agents (OCAs) significantly affect the strongly bound and weakly bound water. However, Omnipaque^TM 300 causes considerably less skin dehydration than glycerol. In addition, the results of examination of the OC effect on autofluorescence in two-photon excitation and background fluorescence in Raman scattering at different skin depths are presented. It is shown that Omnipaque^TM 300 is a promising OCA due to its ability to reduce background fluorescence in the upper skin layers. The possibility of multimodal imaging combining optical methods and OC technique is discussed.

Non-invasive depth profiling of the stratum corneum in vivo using confocal Raman microscopy considering the non-homogeneous distribution of keratin

Confocal Raman microscopy has a number of advantages in investigating the human stratum corneum (SC) in vivo and ex vivo. The penetration profiles of xenobiotics in the SC, as well as depth profiles of the physiological parameters of the SC, such as the concentration of water depending on the strength of hydrogen bonds, total water concentration, the hydrogen bonding state of water molecules, concentration of intercellular lipids, the lamellar and lateral packing order of intercellular lipids, the concentration of natural moisturizing factor molecules, carotenoids, and the secondary and tertiary structure properties of keratin are well investigated. To consider the depth-dependent Raman signal attenuation, in most cases a normalization procedure is needed, which uses the main SC's protein keratin-related Raman peaks, based on the assumption that keratin is homogeneously distributed in the SC. We found that this assumption is not accurate for the bottom part of the SC, where the water concentration is considerably increased, thus, reducing the presence of keratin. Our results demonstrate that the bottom part of the SC depth profile should be multiplied by 0.94 in average in order to match this non-homogeneity, which result in a decrease of the uncorrected values in these depths. The correctly normalized depth profiles of the concentration of lipids, water, natural moisturizing factor and carotenoids are presented in this work. The obtained results should be taken into consideration in future skin research using confocal Raman microscopy.

Conformation changes in human hair keratin observed using confocal Raman spectroscopy after active ingredient application

OBJECTIVE

In hair care cosmetic products' evaluation, one commonly used method is to evaluate the hair appearance as a gold standard in order to determine the effect of an active ingredient on the final state of the hair via visual appreciation. Although other techniques have been proposed for a direct analysis of the hair fibres, they give only surface or structural information, without any accurate molecular information. A different approach based on confocal Raman spectroscopy has been proposed for tracking in situ the molecular change in the keratin directly in the human hair fibres. It presents a high molecular specificity to detect chemical interactions between molecules and can provide molecular information at various depths at the cortex and cuticle levels.

METHODS

To evaluate the potential of confocal Raman spectroscopy in testing the efficiency of cosmetic ingredients on keratin structure, we undertook a pilot study on the effectiveness of a smoothing shampoo on natural human hair, by analysing α-helix and β-sheet spectral markers in the Amide I band and spectral markers specific to the cystin sulfur content.

RESULTS

We confirmed that an active proved to be effective on a gold standard decreases α-helix keratin conformation and promotes β-sheet keratin conformation in the hair fibres. We also showed that treatment with the effective active decreases the intensity of covalent disulfide (S-S at 510 cm-1 ) cross-linking bands of cysteine. These data confirm that the effective active also acts on the tertiary structure of keratin.

CONCLUSION

From these experiments, we concluded that the effective active has a smoothing effect on the human hair fibres by acting on α-helix and β-sheet keratin conformation and on the tertiary structure of keratin. Based on these results, confocal Raman spectroscopy can be considered a powerful technique for investigating the influence of hair cosmetic ingredients on keratin structure in human hair fibres. Moreover, this analytical technique has the advantage of being non-destructive and label free; in addition, it does not require sample extraction or purification and it can be applied routinely in cosmetic laboratories.

Hydrogen bound water profiles in the skin influenced by optical clearing molecular agents-Quantitative analysis using confocal Raman microscopy

Confocal Raman microscopy has been used to measure depth-dependent profiles of porcine skin ex vivo in the high wavenumber region after application of molecular optical clearing agents (OCAs). Glycerol (70%) and iohexol (100% Omnipaque [300]) water solutions were used as OCAs and topically applied to porcine ear skin for 30 and 60 minutes. Using Gaussian function-based deconvolution, the changes of hydrogen bound water molecule types have been microscopically analyzed down to the depth of 200 μm. Results show that both OCAs induced skin dehydration (reduction of total water), which is 51.3% for glycerol (60 minutes), 33.1% for glycerol (30 minutes), 8.3% for Omnipaque (60 minutes) and 4.4% for Omnipaque (30 minutes), on average for the 40 to 200 μm depths. Among the water types in the skin, the following reduction was observed in concentration of weakly bound (51.1%, 33.2%, 7.5% and 4.6%), strongly bound (50.4%, 33.0%, 7.9% and 3.4%), tightly bound (63.6%, 42.3%, 26.1% and 12.9%) and unbound (55.4%, 28.7%, 10.1% and 5.9%) water types on average for the 40 to 200 μm depths, post application of glycerol (60 minutes), glycerol (30 minutes), Omnipaque (60 minutes) and Omnipaque (30 minutes), respectively. As most concentrated in the skin, weakly and strongly bound water types are preferentially involved in the OCA-induced water flux in the skin, and thus, are responsible for optical clearing efficiency.