Anti-elastase and anti-hyaluronidase of phenolic substance from Areca catechu as a new anti-ageing agent

Biological Effects and Biomedical Applications of Areca Nut and Its Extract

The dried, mature fruit of the palm tree species Areca catechu L. is known as the areca nut (AN) or betel nut. It is widely cultivated in the tropical regions. In many nations, AN is utilized for traditional herbal treatments or social activities. AN has historically been used to address various health issues, such as diarrhea, arthritis, dyspepsia, malaria, and so on. In this review, we have conducted a comprehensive summary of the biological effects and biomedical applications of AN and its extracts. Initially, we provided an overview of the constituents in AN extract. Subsequently, we summarized the biological effects of AN and its extracts on the digestive system, nervous system, and circulatory system. And we elucidated the contributions of AN and its extracts in antidepressant, anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and antibacterial applications. Finally, we have discussed the challenges and future perspectives regarding the utilization of AN and its extracts as emerging pharmaceuticals or valuable adjuncts within the pharmaceutical field.

Annurca Apple Oleolite as Functional Ingredient for the Formulation of Cosmetics with Skin-Antiaging Activity

The identification of natural remedies for the management of the skin aging process is an increasingly growing issue. In this context, ursolic acid (UA), a ubiquitous molecule, mainly contained in Annurca apple (AA) fruit, has demonstrated valuable cosmetic potential. To this end, in the current study, the AA oleolite (AAO, extract in sunflower oil containing 784.40 ± 7.579 µg/mL of UA) was evaluated to inhibit porcine elastase enzymatic reactions through a validated spectrophotometric method. AAO has shown a valuable capacity to contrast the elastase enzyme with a calculated IC50 of 212.76 mg/mL, in comparison to UA (IC50 of 135.24 μg/mL) pure molecules and quercetin (IC50 of 72.47 μg/mL) which are used as positive controls. In this context and in view of the valuable antioxidant potential of AAO, its topical formulation with 2.5% (w/w) AAO was tested in a placebo-controlled, double-blind, two-arm clinical study on 40 volunteers. Our results indicated that after 28 days of treatment, a significant reduction of the nasolabial fold (-7.2 vs. baseline T0, p < 0.001) and forehead wrinkles (-5.3 vs. baseline T0, p < 0.001) were registered in combination with a valuable improvement of the viscoelastic skin parameters, where skin pliability/firmness (R0) and gross elasticity (R2) were significantly ameliorated (-13% vs. baseline T0, p < 0.001 for R0 and +12% vs. baseline T0, p < 0.001 for R2). Finally, considering the positive correlation between skin elasticity and hydration, the skin moisture was evaluated through the estimation of Trans epidermal water loss (TEWL) and skin conductance.

Optimization of ultrasonic-assisted extraction of polyphenol from Areca nut (Areca catechu L.) seeds using response surface methodology and its effects on osteogenic activity

Areca nut (Areca catechu L.) seeds are rich in polyphenols, while few studies focused on it. This study was designed to obtain the maximum extraction yield of areca nut seed polyphenol (ACP). An ultrasonic-assisted extraction method optimized by response surface methodology (RSM) was established to extract ACP. Under the optimal conditions (ultrasonic power of 87 W, ethanol concentration of 65%, extraction temperature of 62℃, and extraction time of 153 min), the actual extraction yield of ACP was 139.62 mg/g. Then we investigated the effects of ACP on the proliferation, differentiation and mineralization of MC3T3-E1 pre-osteoblasts. Results suggested that ACP notably promoted the proliferation of MC3T3-E1 cells without cytotoxicity, and the contents of collagen type Ⅰ (COL-Ⅰ) and osteocalcin (OCN) were rising. Meanwhile, the alkaline phosphatase (ALP) activity and mineralized nodules were enhanced. These findings demonstrated that ACP could induce the proliferation, differentiation and mineralization of osteoblasts in vitro. This work provided a certain experimental basis for the developing and utilization of polyphenols from Areca nut seeds.

Phytochemical, Antioxidant, Antihyaluronidase, Antityrosinase, and Antimicrobial Properties of Nicotiana tabacum L. Leaf Extracts

Nicotiana tabacum L. (tobacco) is an important and valuable crop for the cigarette industry. However, cigarette cessation has been encouraged worldwide. Therefore, this study aimed to investigate the potential of N. tabacum leaf extract use in other industries besides cigarette production, especially cosmeceutical industries, which are of interest for increasing the value and widening the applications of N. tabacum. The leaves of N. tabacum var. Virginia and Turkish were extracted by maceration using 95% v/v ethanol or petroleum ether. The extracts were evaluated for their phytochemical compositions, antioxidant capacity, and anti-aging, antimelanogenic, and antimicrobial activities. The phytochemical screening of the extracts revealed terpenoids, steroids, alkaloids, tannins, and carbohydrates in all of the N. tabacum leaf extracts. The total phenolic content was detected to be the highest in the ethanolic extract of Virginia tobacco leaf, which had the most significantly potent antioxidant and antihyaluronidase activity (P < 0.05). On the contrary, the extracts from the Turkish variety demonstrated the most powerful antimicrobial activity against Staphylococcus aureus. Thus, ethanolic extracts of N. tabacum var. Virginia are suggested as good natural anti-aging ingredients with potent antioxidant and antihyaluronidase effects, whereas the leaf of N. tabacum var. Turkish is suggested as a good source of natural antimicrobial components, particularly for S. aureus inhibition. In summary, in addition to the cigarette industry, N. tabacum leaf could be a source of pharmaceutical and cosmeceutical compounds, particularly natural anti-aging and antimicrobial ingredients.

Polysaccharides from Volvariella volvacea Mushroom: Extraction, Biological Activities and Cosmetic Efficacy

Polysaccharides from Volvariella volvacea (VVP) were investigated for their cosmetic-related activities and in vivo efficacy for use as a multifunctional active cosmetic ingredient. Three different polysaccharide extraction methods, including hot water shaking (HS), microwave-assisted (MA) and ultrasonic-assisted (UA), were used. Extractable yield, polysaccharide contents and biological activities, including antioxidant, anti-tyrosinase and anti-elastase activities, were compared. The polysaccharides from HS provided the highest extraction yield (15.58 ± 0.96% w/w) and the highest beta-glucan content (18.80 ± 0.81% w/w). The HS polysaccharides also possessed the highest inhibitory effects toward lipid peroxidation (IC₅₀ of 0.0378 mg/mL), tyrosinase (51.46 mg KAE/g), and elastase (604.21 ± 73.66 mg EGCG/g). The cytotoxicity of the VVP was determined for safe use. A cosmetic gel cream containing VVP was developed and 0.2% VVP formulation was observed to be the most stable in color. UV protection factors, skin irritation by single patch test, and in vivo efficacy, including skin moisturization, anti-wrinkle and whitening, were measured. The VVP showed no cytotoxicity against human dermal skin fibroblast. The gel cream containing VVP provided less sun protection factor; however, it significantly exhibited the skin benefits of increasing moisture, gross elasticity, net elasticity, and skin firmness. Improvements to skin roughness, scaliness, wrinkles and in melanin content were also depicted gradually along 8 weeks. V. volvacea, therefore, could be a good source for polysaccharides being used as a moisturizing, anti-wrinkle, and whitening agent in cosmetic preparations.

A New Xanthone Glycoside from Mangifera indica L.: Physicochemical Properties and In Vitro Anti-Skin Aging Activities

A new xanthone glycoside, 1,3,5,6-tetrahydroxyxanthone-C-4-β-d-glucopyranoside was isolated from the methanol extract of Mangifera indica leaves (Anacardiaceae) growing in Egypt. The structure was clarified by 1D and 2D-NMR spectroscopic data. The physicochemical properties of the compound such as lipophilicity, solubility, and formulation considerations were predicted via in silico ADMET technique using the SwissADME server. This technique provided Lipinski’s rule of five, such as GIT absorption, distribution, metabolism, and skin permeation. The in vitro inhibitory activities against aging-mediated enzymes such as collagenase, elastase, hyaluronidase, and tyrosinase were assessed. The compound exhibited remarkable anti-collagenase, anti-elastase, anti-hyaluronidase, and anti-tyrosinase effects with IC₅₀ values of 1.06, 419.10, 1.65, and 0.48 µg/mL, respectively, compared to the positive control. The compound showed promising predicted aqueous solubility and reasonable skin penetration suggesting the suitability of the compound for topical formulation as an anti-aging agent for cosmetic preparations.

UPLC-MS/MS and Network Pharmacology-Based Analysis of Bioactive Anti-Depression Compounds in Betel Nut

Background

Betel nuts have long been used in traditional Chinese medicine. In our study, the bioactive components of betel nut were systematically investigated, and the main components and their target genes in the treatment of depression were predicted.

Methods

The metabolites of the kernels and peels were analyzed with a UPLC–MS/MS system. Mass spectrometry outcomes were annotated by MULTIAQUANT. “Compound‐disease targets” were utilized to construct a pharmacology network.

Results

A total of 873 metabolites were identified, with a high abundance of flavonoids, alkaloids, and phenols. Moreover, the abundance of flavonoids, alkaloids, and phenols in the kernel was significantly higher than that in the peel. A high abundance of catechin, arginine, and phenylalanine was detected in the kernel, while a high abundance of arginine, arecoline, and aminobutyric acid was detected in the peel. Catechins and cyanoside were the most abundant flavonoids in the kernel and peel, respectively. Arecoline was the most abundant alkaloid. A total of 111 metabolites showed a significant difference between the kernels and peels. The relative abundance of 40 differential metabolites was higher than 100,000, including 14 primary metabolites, 12 flavonoids, 4 phenols, and 4 alkaloids. Among the 40 high abundance metabolites, 20 were higher in the kernel and 20 in the peel. In addition, the enrichment of metabolic pathways found that the kernel and peel of the fruit adopted different metabolic pathways for the synthesis of flavonoids and alkaloids. Network pharmacology prediction showed that 93 metabolites could target 141 depression-related genes. The main components of betel nut intervention in depression were predicted to include L-phenylalanine, protocatechuic acid, okanin, nicotinic acid, L-tyrosine, benzocaine, syringic acid, benzocaine, phloretic acid, cynaroside, and 3,4-dihydroxybenzaldehyde.

Conclusion

Betel nuts are rich in natural metabolites, and some of these metabolites can participate in the intervention of depression. In addition, the metabolites showed distinct characteristics between the kernel and peel. Therefore, it is necessary to comprehensively and rationally use betel nuts.

Two triterpenoids from Rubus fraxinifolius leaves and their tyrosinase and elastase inhibitory activities

Numerous therapeutic compounds have been isolated from naturally abundant organic resources, which may offer economical and sustainable sources of compounds with safe and efficacious biological activities. In the cosmetics industry, natural compounds with anti-aging activities are eagerly sought. Thus, we prepared various extracts from Rubus fraxinifolius leaves and used enzyme inhibition assays to isolate compounds with protective effects against skin aging. Two triterpenoids were isolated from Rubus fraxinifolius Poir. leaves. The structures were characterized by spectroscopic analyses (LC-ESI-MS, 1D/2D NMR) and comparison to reported data. Compound 1 and 2 were determined as 2,3-O-ethyleneglycol, 19-hydroxyurs-12-en-23,28-dioic acid and 2,3-O-propanediol,19-hydroxyurs-12-en-28-oic acid. Methanol extract and isolates were assessed for their inhibitory effects on elastase and tyrosinase. Compounds 1 and 2 inhibited elastase with IC₅₀ 122.199 µg/mL and 98.22 µg/mL, and also inhibited tyrosinase with IC₅₀ 207.79 µg/mL and 221.51 µg/mL, respectively. The molecular docking proved that both compounds have affinities toward the enzymes.

Effects of Carissa carandas Linn. Fruit, Pulp, Leaf, and Seed on Oxidation, Inflammation, Tyrosinase, Matrix Metalloproteinase, Elastase, and Hyaluronidase Inhibition

In this study, the potential of Carissa carandas Linn. as a natural anti-aging, antioxidant, and skin whitening agent was studied. Various parts of C. carandas, including fruit, leaf, seed, and pulp were sequentially extracted by maceration using n-hexane, ethyl acetate, and ethanol, respectively. High-performance liquid chromatography, Folin–Ciocalteu, and Dowd method were used to investigate their chemical compositions. The inhibitory activities of oxidation process, matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs), elastase, hyaluronidase, and tyrosinase were analyzed. Cytotoxicity was determined by 3-(4,5-dimethylthiazol-2-yl)-2,5 diphenyl tetrazolium bromide assay in a human epidermal keratinocyte line (HaCaT). The results exhibited that ethyl acetate could extract the most ursolic acid from C. carandas, while ethanol could extract the most phenolics and flavonoids. The leaf extract had the highest content of ursolic acid, phenolics, and flavonoids. The leaf extracted with ethyl acetate (AL) had the highest ursolic acid content (411.8 mg/g extract) and inhibited MMP-1, NF-kappa B, and tyrosinase activity the most. Ursolic acid has been proposed as a key component in these biological activities. Although several C. carandas extracts are beneficial to human skin, AL has been proposed for use in cosmetics and cosmeceuticals due to its superior anti-wrinkle, anti-inflammation, and whitening properties.

Screening the dermatological potential of plectranthus species components: antioxidant and inhibitory capacities over elastase, collagenase and tyrosinase

A series of Plectranthus spp. plant extracts (aqueous, acetonic, methanolic and ethyl acetic) obtained from eight different species, and previously isolated compounds (ranging from polyphenols, diterpenes and triterpenes), were assayed for in vitro inhibition of the skin-related enzymes tyrosinase, collagenase and elastase, and for studying their antioxidant properties. The ethyl acetic extracts of P. grandidentatus and P. ecklonii registered the highest antioxidant activity, whereas acetonic, methanolic and ethyl acetic extracts of P. ecklonii, P. grandidentatus, P. madagascariensis and P. saccatus concerning the enzymatic inhibition assays revealed high anti-tyrosinase and anti-collagenase activities. From the isolated compounds tested, abietane diterpenes and triterpenes were highly active against tyrosinase and elastase activity. Overall, the experimental results showed the powerful antioxidant and inhibitory action on skin-related enzymes tyrosinase, collagenase and elastase of Plectranthus spp. extracts and/or isolated compounds, supporting their further research as bioactive metabolites against skin sagging and hyperpigmentation in cosmetic and pharmaceutical formulations.

Olive Tree in Circular Economy as a Source of Secondary Metabolites Active for Human and Animal Health Beyond Oxidative Stress and Inflammation

Extra-virgin olive oil (EVOO) contains many bioactive compounds with multiple biological activities that make it one of the most important functional foods. Both the constituents of the lipid fraction and that of the unsaponifiable fraction show a clear action in reducing oxidative stress by acting on various body components, at concentrations established by the European Food Safety Authority's claims. In addition to the main product obtained by the mechanical pressing of the fruit, i.e., the EVOO, the residual by-products of the process also contain significant amounts of antioxidant molecules, thus potentially making the Olea europea L. an excellent example of the circular economy. In fact, the olive mill wastewaters, the leaves, the pomace, and the pits discharged from the EVOO production process are partially recycled in the nutraceutical and cosmeceutical fields also because of their antioxidant effect. This work presents an overview of the biological activities of these by-products, as shown by in vitro and in vivo assays, and also from clinical trials, as well as their main formulations currently available on the market.

A comparison for the effects of raw, smoked, and smoked and brined areca nut extracts on the immune and inflammatory responses in the Kunming mice

Chewing of areca nuts is quite popular in various regions worldwide. Previous studies have demonstrated the pharmacological and toxicological effects of fresh areca nuts. However, processed areca nuts, which are popular in the Hunan province of China, have not been extensively studied for its biological effect. This study aimed at investigating the impact of the acrea nut extracts (ANE) prepared from the raw material, the semi-product, and the final product on the immune system and inflammation-related markers in the Kunming mice. The mice were assigned to seven different groups and administered different ANE at two concentrations (1X and 5X) for four weeks. Total body weight gain and organ coefficient of the liver, spleen, and kidney, as well as the immune system and inflammation-related markers were evaluated. The results revealed that processed areca nuts have a much milder effect on the mice immune system and some inflammatory markers than fresh areca nut in the Kunming mice. PRACTICAL APPLICATIONS: Chewing various forms of areca nuts is popular in China, Southeast Asia, and other regions. People from Hunan, China prefer to chew a processed areca nut, which has rarely been studied. This manuscript explores the effects of three kinds of areca nut extracts on the immune system- and inflammation-related indicators in Kunming mice. The obtained results revealed that processed areca nuts had significantly milder effects than the raw nut/nut extract, particularly on the body weight, immune responses, and inflammatory markers. The results of the present study provide some new directions for the areca nut industry and raise public awareness for the undesirable effects of areca nuts.

Recent advances in extracting phenolic compounds from food and their use in disease prevention and as cosmetics

Phenolic compounds in plants are essential components of human nutrition, which provide various health benefits. However, some missing links became the research in phenolic compounds structures and potential applications in a challenging work. Despite universal extraction methods with mixtures of different organic solvents are generally adopted in the analysis of phenolic compounds, a need for establish a specific procedure is still open. The great heterogeneity in food and food by-products matrices and the lack of standardized methods which combine chromatographic with spectrophotometric techniques to calculate the amount of phenolic compounds joined with the absence of specific standards hamper to accurate know the real amount of phenolic compounds. Indeed, the high complexity in nature and chemistry of phenolic compounds clearly difficult to establish a daily intake to obtain certain healthy outcomes. Hence, despite the potential of phenolic compounds to use them in cosmetic and healthy applications have been widely analyzed, some concerns must be considered. The chemical complexity, the interactions between phenolic compounds and other food components and the structural changes induced by food processing joined with the lack in the understanding of phenolic compounds metabolism and bioavailability undergo the need to conduct a comprehensive review of each factors influencing the final activity of phenolic compounds. This paper summarizes the potential of phenolic compounds for disease prevention and cosmetics production, as well as their many other uses derived from their antioxidant activity. This paper illustrates the potential of phenolic compounds for disease prevention and cosmetics production, as well as their many other uses derived from their antioxidant activity.

Enzyme inhibitory assessment of the isolated constituents from Plantago holosteum Scop

Plants of the Plantago genus are widely used in Turkish folk medicine especially for the treatment of wound, abscess, and inflammation. The aqueous extract and five phenylethanoid glycosides acteoside (1), arenarioside (2), echinacoside (3), isoacteoside (4), and leucosceptoside A (5) isolated from the aerial parts and roots of Plantago holosteum Scop. (Plantaginaceae) were tested for their possible inhibitory activity against hyaluronidase, elastase, and collagenase, related to wound pathogenesis. Even though the aqueous extract prepared from the aerial parts (36.26%) and roots (47.01%) and the isolated compounds acteoside (29.13%), echinacoside (28.73%), and isoacteoside (31.69%) exerted a notable inhibition, arenarioside and leucosceptoside A were found inactive in the hyaluronidase enzyme inhibition test. Similar results were obtained from the collagenase enzyme inhibition test. The aqueous extract prepared from the aerial parts (31.09%) and roots (35.17%), echinacoside (25.13%), and isoacteoside (23.85%) exerted a notable inhibition in this test. However, none of the extracts and isolated compounds displayed elastase enzyme inhibitory activity. The experimental data demonstrated that P. holosteum displayed a remarkable enzyme inhibitory activity against hyaluronidase and collagenase. This paper is the first report regarding the in vitro enzyme inhibitory activity of P. holosteum.

Chemical Compositions and Anti-Skin-Ageing Activities of Origanum vulgare L. Essential Oil from Tropical and Mediterranean Region

Origanum vulgare L. has been used as a culinary ingredient worldwide. This study revealed the cosmeceutical potential of O. vulgare essential oil as a skin-ageing retardant. The O. vulgare essential oil from a highland area of a tropical country (HO), obtained by hydrodistillation was investigated and compared to a commercial oil from the Mediterranean region (CO). Their chemical compositions were investigated by gas chromatography–mass spectrometry. Antioxidant activities were investigated by ferric reducing antioxidant power, 1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl, and ferric thiocyanate assay. Anti-skin-ageing activities were determined by means of collagenase, elastase, and hyaluronidase inhibition. Carvacrol was the major component in both oils, but a higher amount was detected in HO (79.5%) than CO (64.6%). HO possessed comparable radical scavenging activity to CO (IC₅₀ = 1.8 ± 0.8 mg/mL) but significantly higher lipid peroxidation inhibition (38.0 ± 0.8%). Carvacrol was remarked as the major compound responsible for the reducing power of both oils. Interestingly, HO possessed significant superior anti-skin-ageing activity than ascorbic acid (P < 0.01), with inhibition against collagenase, elastase, and hyaluronidase of 92.0 ± 9.7%, 53.1 ± 13.3%, and 16.7 ± 0.3%, at the concentration of 67, 25, and 4 µg/mL, respectively. Since HO possessed comparable anti-hyaluronidase activity to CO and superior anti-collagenase and anti-elastase (P < 0.01), HO was suggested to be used as a natural skin-ageing retardant in a cosmetic industry.

Toxicity and Its Mechanism Study of Arecae semen Aqueous Extract in Wistar Rats by UPLC-HDMS-Based Serum Metabolomics

Background

Arecae semen (AS) is officially recorded in Chinese Pharmacopoeia and it is known for its multiple functions, including antidepressive, antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and cholesterol-lowering effects, which have been confirmed by modern pharmacological study. Previous study in our laboratory showed that long-term oral administration of Arecae semen (AS) is officially recorded in Chinese Pharmacopoeia and it is known for its multiple functions, including antidepressive, antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and cholesterol-lowering effects, which have been confirmed by modern pharmacological study. Previous study in our laboratory showed that long-term oral administration of Hypothesis. The aim of this work was to characterize the metabolome, evaluate the metabolic changes, and study the mechanisms of the toxicity induced by different treatment doses of ASAE via metabolomics.

Methods

Wistar rats were administered orally two different doses of ASAE (1500 and 4500 mg/kg/d) for 30 days. The investigation was carried out to evaluate the safety of ASAE. And, the UPLC-HDMS-based serum metabolomics in conjunction with multivariate statistical techniques was applied to investigate the serum metabolite profile and potential markers of toxicity induced by different doses of ASAE.

Results

Coupled with blood biochemistry and histopathology results, the significant difference in metabolic profiling was observed between 1500 and 4500 mg/kg/d dosages of ASAE-treated rats and normal rats by using pattern recognition analysis, indicating that changes in serum metabolites must have occurred. Some significant changed metabolites such as arachidonic acid, linoleic acid, stearic acid, and LPC (18 : 1) have been found and identified. These biochemical changes in serum metabolites are related to the perturbation of linoleic acid metabolism, arachidonic acid metabolism, glycerophospholipid metabolism, and purine metabolism, which may be helpful to further understand the cardiotoxicity and neurotoxicity of ASAE.

Conclusion

The study shows that the metabolomic method may be a valuable tool for studying the essence of toxicity induced by traditional Chinese medicine.

Evaluation of caffeine as inhibitor against collagenase, elastase and tyrosinase using in silico and in vitro approach

Skin ageing results from enhanced activation of intracellular enzymes such as collagenases, elastases and tyrosinase, stimulated by intrinsic ageing and photoageing factors. Recently, caffeine-based cosmetics are introduced that demonstrates to slow down skin photoageing process. However, no attempts have been done so for to understand caffeine functional inhibitory activity against photoageing related enzymes. Hence, this study established the caffeine molecular interaction and inhibition activity profiles against respective enzymes using in silico and in vitro methods, respectively. Results from in silico study indicates that caffeine has comparatively good affinity with collagenase (−4.6 kcal/mol), elastase (−3.36 kcal/mol) and tyrosinase (−2.86 kcal/mol) and formed the stable protein-ligand complex as validated by molecular dynamics simulation (protein-ligand contacts, RMSD, RMSF and secondary structure changes analysis). Moreover, in vitro data showed that caffeine (1000 µg/mL) has statistically significant maximum inhibition activity of 41.86, 36.44 and 13.72% for collagenase, elastase and tyrosinase, respectively.

Isodon rugosus (Wall. ex Benth.) Codd In Vitro Cultures: Establishment, Phytochemical Characterization and In Vitro Antioxidant and Anti-Aging Activities

Isodon rugosus (Wall. ex Benth.) Codd accumulates large amounts of phenolics and pentacyclic triterpenes. The present study deals with the in vitro callus induction from stem and leaf explants of I. rugosus under various plant growth regulators (PGRs) for the production of antioxidant and anti-ageing compounds. Among all the tested PGRs, thidiazuron (TDZ) used alone or in conjunction with α-napthalene acetic acid (NAA) induced highest callogenesis in stem-derived explants, as compared to leaf-derived explants. Stem-derived callus culture displayed maximum total phenolic content and antioxidant activity under optimum hormonal combination (3.0 mg/L TDZ + 1.0 mg/L NAA). HPLC analysis revealed the presence of plectranthoic acid (373.92 µg/g DW), oleanolic acid (287.58 µg/g DW), betulinic acid (90.51 µg/g DW), caffeic acid (91.71 µg/g DW), and rosmarinic acid (1732.61 µg/g DW). Complete antioxidant and anti-aging potential of extracts with very contrasting phytochemical profiles were investigated. Correlation analyses revealed rosmarinic acid as the main contributor for antioxidant activity and anti-aging hyaluronidase, advance glycation end-products inhibitions and SIRT1 activation, whereas, pentacyclic triterpenoids were correlated with elastase, collagenase, and tyrosinase inhibitions. Altogether, these results clearly evidenced the great valorization potential of I. rugosus calli for the production of antioxidant and anti-aging bioactive extracts for cosmetic applications.

Free radical scavenging potential of sericin obtained from various ecoraces of tasar cocoons and its cosmeceuticals implication

Tropical tasar silkworm Antheraea mylitta is a wild sericigenous insect which is distributed in different geographical regions and named as different ecoraces. In the present study, we investigated the molecular characterisation and cosmeceutical properties of sericin extracted from different ecoraces of tasar cocoons. The surface morphology and molecular weight of cocoons were determined by scanning electron microscope (SEM) and SDS-PAGE, respectively. Characterisation of sericin was performed by various methods such as FTIR, CHNS, TGA and amino acid analyzer. The anti-tyrosinase, anti-elastase, glutathione-S-transferase inhibition, free radical scavenging potential and inhibition of oxidative damages were measured in tasar ecoraces sericin. SEM images have revealed the removal of sericin from the surface of cocoons. SDS-PAGE of sericin depicted the presence of diverse molecular weight of proteins. Structural determination by FTIR revealed the presence of both α-helical and β-sheet structures. Thermal properties of sericin were studied by TGA which showed a 50% weight loss at temperature 410 °C-430 °C. Additionally, ecoraces sericin contains 17 amino acids in which serine, aspartic acid and glycine are predominantly present (55.68-59.61%). Further, anti-tyrosinase, anti-elastase, inhibition of glutathione-S-transferase activity, free radical scavenging potential and inhibition of lipid peroxidation were also observed in ecoraces sericin. Our findings suggest that the present study appear to be helpful in exploiting sericin as potential biomaterial in cosmeceutical and allied field.

Tasar silk fiber waste sericin: New source for anti-elastase, anti-tyrosinase and anti-oxidant compounds

The present study investigates the properties of sericin extracted from tasar silk fiber waste (TSFW). The surface morphology of TSFW was observed by scanning electron microscope (SEM). SEM images revealed the removal of residual sericin over the surface of TSFW. The molecular weight distribution of sericin was examined by sodium dodecyl sulfate-polyacrylamide gel electrophoresis (SDS-PAGE). The results suggested that TSFW sericin represented a family of proteins with wide-ranging molecular weight distribution (11-245 kDa). Structural determination by FTIR revealed the presence of both α-helical and β-sheet structures. The colour was studied by colorimeter indicating less brightness, more red and yellow colour intensities. The carbon: nitrogen ratio (C:N) was studied by CHNS element analyzer and the ratio is 5.15-7.85. Thermal properties of TSFW sericin have been studied by thermogravimetric analysis (TGA) method. TGA curve showed higher thermal stability and variable degradation profiles. Furthermore, TSFW sericin contains 17 amino acids where serine, aspartic acid and glycine are the more significant compounds (54.34-60.49%). In addition, sericin was found to inhibit tyrosinase, elastase and glutathione-S-transferase activity, and had apparent radical scavenging impacts on 2.2‑diphenyl‑1‑picryl‑hydrazil (DPPH), hydrogen peroxide and inhibition of lipid peroxidation. Result suggested that TSFW sericins might be a valuable ingredient for cosmoceutical products.

An overview about oxidation in clinical practice of skin aging

Free radicals are unstable chemical species, highly reactive, being formed by cellular entities of different tissues. Increased production of these species without proper effective action of endogenous and exogenous antioxidant systems, generates a condition of oxidative stress, potentially provider of skin disorders that extend from functional impairments (skin cancer, dermatitis, chronic and acute inflammatory processes) even aesthetic character, with the destruction of structural proteins and cellular changes with the appearance of stains, marks and lines of expressions and other signs inherent to the intrinsic and extrinsic skin aging process. The antioxidants are chemical substances commonly used in clinical practice for topical application and may contribute in the fight against the radical species responsible for many skin damage. This paper summarized the main evidence of the benefits brought by the topical application of antioxidants in the skin, considering the amplitude of the indicative performance of antioxidant activity by in vitro and ex-vivo tests as well as in vivo tests. It is recognized that a breadth of product performance tests should be explored to truly identify the effectiveness of antioxidant products for an anti-aging effect.

Polyphenols as active ingredients for cosmetic products

Polyphenols are secondary plant metabolites with antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and anti-microbial activity. They are ubiquitously distributed in the plant kingdom; high amounts contain, for example, green tea and grape seeds. Polyphenolic extracts are attractive ingredients for cosmetics and pharmacy due to their beneficial biological properties. This review summarizes the effects of polyphenols in the context of anti-ageing activity. We have explored in vitro studies, which investigate antioxidant activity, inhibition of dermal proteases and photoprotective activity, mostly studied using dermal fibroblasts or epidermal keratinocytes cell lines. Possible negative effects of polyphenols were also discussed. Further, some physicochemical aspects, namely the possible interactions with emulsifiers and the influence of the cosmetic formulation on the skin delivery, were reported. Finally, few clinical studies, which cover the anti-ageing action of polyphenols on the skin after topical application, were reviewed.

Inhibitory effects of polyphenols from grape pomace extract on collagenase and elastase activity

Breakdown and disorganization of extracellular matrix proteins like collagen, fibronectin and elastin are main characteristics of skin aging due to the enhanced activation of proteolytic enzymes such as collagenases and elastases. Inhibition of their enzymatic activities by natural plant compounds might be a promising approach to prevent extrinsic skin aging. Especially polyphenols are supposed to interact with those enzymes due to their molecular nature. In our investigation, extracts of pomace from Riesling grapes were analyzed for their inhibitory properties on collagenase as well as elastase. Crude grape pomace extract showed a dose-dependent inhibitory activity against both enzymes with IC50-values of 20.3μg/ml and 14.7μg/ml for collagenase and elastase activity, respectively. The extracts were fractionated into four fractions containing phenolic compounds differing in chemical structure and polarity. Except for the stilbene containing fraction, all other fractions showed inhibitory effects on both enzyme activities. The most pronounced impact was found for the hydrophilic low molecular weight polyphenols containing the free phenolic acids. In particular, gallic acid showed considerable inhibition values. EGCG was used as a positive control and showed a dose-dependent inhibition of collagenase activity (IC50=0.9mM).

Matrix metalloproteinase, hyaluronidase and elastase inhibitory potential of standardized extract of Centella asiatica

CONTEXT

Centella asiatica (L.) Urban (Apiaceae), a valuable herb described in Ayurveda, is used in the indigenous system of medicine as a tonic to treat skin diseases.

OBJECTIVE

Centella asiatica methanol extract and its ethyl acetate, n-butanol and aqueous fraction, were subjected for the evaluation of skin care potential through the in vitro hyaluronidase, elastase and matrix metalloproteinase-1 (MMP-1) inhibitory assay.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

The C. asiatica plant was extracted with methanol and fractionated with ethyl acetate, n-butanol and water. The enzymatic activities were evaluated using ursolic acid and oleanolic acid as standards. Isolate molecule asiaticoside was quantified in the crude extract and fractions through high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) and structural was characterized by liquid chromatography-mass spectroscopy (LC-MS) and ¹H nuclear magnetic resonance (NMR). Isolated compound was also evaluated for in vitro enzyme assays.

RESULTS

Extract exhibited anti-hyaluronidase and anti-elastase activity with IC₅₀ of 19.27 ± 0.37 and 14.54 ± 0.39 µg/mL, respectively, as compared to ursolic acid. Centella asiatica n-butanol fraction (CAnB) and isolated compound showed significant hyaluronidase (IC₅₀ = 27.00 ± 0.43 and 18.63 ± 0.33 µg/mL) and elastase (IC₅₀ = 29.15 ± 0.31 and 19.45 ± 0.25 µg/mL) inhibitory activities, respectively, and also showed significant MMP-1 inhibition (p < 0.05 and p < 0.01).

DISCUSSION AND CONCLUSION

n-Butanol fraction was found to be most effective among the all fractions from which asiaticoside was isolated and further quantified by HPLC. This work concludes that the asiaticoside from C. asiatica may be a prospective agent for skin care.

Release and in vitro skin permeation of polyphenols from cosmetic emulsions

OBJECTIVE

Polyphenols are natural antioxidants, which can inhibit oxidative chain reactions in human skin and prevent therefore some skin diseases and premature ageing. A prerequisite of this behaviour is their permeation through the skin barrier, in particular the stratum corneum (SC). In this study, we investigated the skin permeation kinetic of polyphenols, incorporated to semisolid emulsions, and the release of polyphenols from the emulsions.

METHODS

Mixtures of model substances, consisting of catechin, epigallocatechin gallate (EGCG), resveratrol, quercetin, rutin and protocatechuic acid (PCA), were formulated into o/w emulsions with different oil phase content. The in vitro experiments were carried out in Franz-type diffusion cells by means of ex vivo pig skin and a cellulose membrane.

RESULTS

The increased oil content in the emulsion led to a significant decrease in initial release coefficients (K(r)), diffusion coefficients within the formulation (D(v)) and skin permeation coefficients (K(p)), respectively. The study considered the dependence of K(r) on molecular weight and lipophilicity of polyphenolics. For both more hydrophilic and more lipophilic substance groups, the values for K(r) were inverse proportional to molecular weight. For catechin, quercetin, rutin, resveratrol and PCA, a good correlation between K(p) and K(r) parameters was obtained. The most permeable substance was PCA (K(p) = 1.2·10(-3) cm h(-1)), and the least permeable was quercetin (K(p) = 1.5·10(-5) cm h(-1)).

CONCLUSION

All substances could pass the SC barrier and were found mostly in the epidermis and dermis, confirming the potential of polyphenols as anti-ageing active cosmetic ingredients.

Skin ageing: natural weapons and strategies

The fact that the skin is the most visible organ makes us aware of the ageing process every minute. The use of plant extracts and herbs has its origins in ancient times. Chronological and photo-ageing can be easily distinguished clinically, but they share important molecular features. We tried to gather the most interesting evidence based on facts about plants and plant extracts used in antiaging products. Our main idea was to emphasize action mechanisms of these plant/herbal products, that is, their “strategies” in fighting skin ageing. Some of the plant extracts have the ability to scavenge free radicals, to protect the skin matrix through the inhibition of enzymatic degradation, or to promote collagen synthesis in the skin. There are some plants that can affect skin elasticity and tightness. Certainly, there is a place for herbal principles in antiaging cosmetics. On the other hand, there is a constant need for more evaluation and more clinical studies in vivo with emphasis on the ingredient concentration of the plant/herbal products, its formulation, safety, and duration of the antiaging effect.

Anti-Inflammatory Activity of Thymol: Inhibitory Effect on the Release of Human Neutrophil Elastase

Elastase, a serine proteinase released by activated human neutrophils, can degrade a wide variety of biomacromolecules including elastin, and is considered a marker of inflammatory diseases. As the logical strategy to protect tissue is to inhibit excessive elastase activity, experimental and clinical researches have concentrated on trying to find efficient elastase inhibitors. As thymol, one of the major components of thyme oil with a phenolic structure, has been credited with a series of pharmacological properties, that include antimicrobial and antioxidant effects, the aim of this study was to explore whether it can also interfere with the release of elastase by human neutrophils stimulated with the synthetic chemotactic peptide N-formyl-methionyl-leucyl-phenylalanine (fMLP). After the neutrophils were incubated with increasing amounts of thymol (2.5, 5, 10, 20 microg/ml), elastase release was initiated by fMLP and measured using MeO-Suc-Ala-Ala-Pro-Val-MCA. The results showed that thymol inhibited fMLP-induced elastase release in a concentration-dependent manner, with the effects of 10 and 20 microg/ml being statistically significant. The behavior of cytosolic calcium mobilization revealed by fura-2 closely resembled that of elastase, thus suggesting that they may be related. The hydrophobic nature of thymol means that it can approach ion channel proteins through the lipid phase of the membrane, alter the local environment of calcium channels and thus inhibit capacitative calcium entry. In brief, thymol inactivates calcium channels machinery, thus triggering a corresponding reduction in elastase. The antibacterial and antimycotic activity of thymol is already well known, but our findings that it inhibits elastase extend our knowledge of the anti-inflammatory activity of this interesting molecule that is already credited with antioxidant activity. These two latter characteristics make thymol a molecule that can have helpful effects in controlling the inflammatory processes present in many infections.