Natural Substances for Prevention of Skin Photoaging: Screening Systems in the Development of Sunscreen and Rejuvenation Cosmetics

The use of natural extracts with photoprotective activity: a 2015-2023 patent prospection

Synthetic sunscreen offers protection against excessive exposure to ultraviolet (UV) radiation from the sun, and protects the skin from possible damage. However, they have low efficacy against the formation of reactive oxygen species (ROS), which are highly reactive molecules that can be generated in the skin when it is exposed to UV radiation, and are known to play a role in oxidative stress, which can contribute to skin aging and damage. Thus, there is an ongoing search for sunscreens that do not have these negative effects. One promising source for these is natural products. Therefore, the current patent review summarizes topical formulations made from natural compounds that have antioxidant properties and can be used as photoprotective or anti-aging agents, either using a single natural extract or a combination of extracts. The review reports basic patent information (applicant country, type of applicant, and year of filing) and gives details about the invention, including its chemical composition, and the in vitro and in vivo tests performed. These patents describe natural products that can be used to protect the skin and validate their efficacy, and safety, in addition to standardizing their formulations. The compositions described illustrate the consistent innovation in the use of natural products to protect against UV damage and photoaging disorders, a promising field which is receiving growing global recognition.

Microencapsulated Bilberry and Chokeberry Leaf Extracts with Potential Health Benefits

The aim of the research was to develop microencapsulated powders of bilberry and chokeberry extracts via the spray drying technique. Two biopolymers, pectin alone and in combination with HP-β-CD, were used to preserve the antioxidant, hypoglycemic, photoprotective, and antimicrobial bioactivity of the berry leaf extracts. Moreover, the formed powders were characterized in terms of technological, chemical, and several biological properties. The obtained micro-sized powders (mean average particle diameter from 3.83 to 5.94 µm) demonstrated a process yield of up to 73%. The added biopolymers improved the flowability and cohesive properties of the powders and increased their thermal stability to 170 °C. The total content of polyphenolics in the powders ranged from 323.35 to 367.76 mg GAE/g DW for bilberry and from 186.85 to 227.59 mg GAE/g DW for chokeberry powders; meanwhile, chlorogenic acid was the predominant compound in powders. All samples showed stronger α-glucosidase inhibitory activity (IC50 values ranged from 5.00 to 19.59 µg/mL) compared with the reference standard. The study confirmed that spray drying is a suitable method for the preservation of the polyphenolic-rich extracts, while the addition of carriers has a positive effect on the improvement of microencapsulated powders' properties.

The effects of UV filters on health and the environment

Sunscreens are an important means of protection against sunburns, dyspigmentation, photoaging, and photocarcinogenesis. Sunscreens come in a variety of formulations that can protect against ultraviolet B (UVB) radiation, both UVB and ultraviolet A (UVA) radiation (broad-spectrum sunscreens), and UVB, UVA, and visible light (tinted broad-spectrum sunscreens). In the USA, there is currently a paucity of FDA-approved broad-spectrum filters on the market. Studies have identified the presence of multiple UV filters in water sources globally. Many laboratory studies have implicated the potential impact of UV filters on coral reef bleaching, the food chain, and human health. However, many of these studies are performed at concentrations that are much higher than those present in the natural environment. With increasing discussion surrounding the role of organic and inorganic UV filters as potential environmental pollutants over the past decade, approval of additional broad-spectrum filters would be an important means of alleviating the use of more controversial filters. The aim of this article is to review the effects of UV filters on health and the environment and explore potential adjunctive agents for photoprotection.

Effects of native and particulate polyphenols on DNA damage and cell viability after UV-C exposure

Plant polyphenols have poor water solubility, resulting in low bioavailability. In order to overcome this limitation, the drug molecules can be coated with multiple layers of polymeric materials. Microcrystals of quercetin and resveratrol coated with a (PAH/PSS)4 or (CH/DexS)4 shell were prepared using the layer-by-layer assembly method; cultured human HaCaT keratinocytes were treated with UV-C, and after that, cells were incubated with native and particulate polyphenols. DNA damage, cell viability, and integrity were evaluated by comet assay, using PrestoBlueTM reagent and lactate dehydrogenase (LDH) leakage test. The data obtained indicate that both native and particulate polyphenols added immediately after UV-C exposure increased cell viability in a dose-dependent manner; however, the efficiency of particulate quercetin was more pronounced than that of the native compound; also quercetin coated with a (CH/DexS)4 shell more effectively than the native compound reduced the number of DNA lesions in the nuclei of keratinocytes exposed to UV-C radiation; native and particulate resveratrol were ineffective against DNA damage. Quercetin reduces cell death caused by UV-C radiation and increases DNA repair capacity. Coating quercetin with (CH/DexS)4 shell markedly enhanced its impact on DNA repair.

Peelable Microneedle Patches Deliver Fibroblast Growth Factors to Repair Skin Photoaging Damage

Rationale: UV light deeply penetrates the dermis, leading to inflammation and cell death with prolonged exposure. This is a major contributor to skin photoaging. In the pharmaceutical field, fibroblast growth factors (FGFs) have gained popularity for enhancing skin quality as they facilitate tissue remodeling and re-epithelization. Nonetheless, their effectiveness is significantly hindered by limited absorption. Methods: We have successfully created a dissolving microneedle (MN) patch that contains hyaluronic acid (HA) loaded with FGF-2 and FGF-21. This patch aims to improve the therapeutic efficiency of these growth factors while providing a simple administration method. We determined the performance of this patch in an animal model of skin photoaging. Results: The FGF-2/FGF-21-loaded MN (FGF-2/FGF-21 MN) patch demonstrated a consistent structure and suitable mechanical properties, allowing for easy insertion and penetration into mouse skin. Within 10 minutes of application, the patch released approximately 38.50 ± 13.38% of the loaded drug. Notably, the FGF-2/FGF-21 MNs exhibited significant improvements in UV-induced acute skin inflammation and reduced mouse skin wrinkles within a span of two weeks. Furthermore, the positive effects continued to enhance over a four-week treatment period. Conclusion: The proposed HA-based peelable MN patch provides an efficient approach for transdermal drug delivery, providing a promising method for improved therapeutic outcomes.

Use of Natural Agents and Agrifood Wastes for the Treatment of Skin Photoaging

Photoaging is the premature aging of the skin caused by repeated exposure to ultraviolet (UV) rays. The harmful effects of UV rays-from the sun or from artificial sources-alter normal skin structures and cause visible damage, especially in the most exposed areas. Fighting premature aging is one of the most important challenges of the medical landscape. Additionally, consumers are looking for care products that offer multiple benefits with reduced environmental and economic impact. The growing requests for bioactive compounds from aromatic plants for pharmaceutical and cosmetic applications have to find new sustainable methods to increase the effectiveness of new active formulations derived from eco-compatible technologies. The principle of sustainable practices and the circular economy favor the use of bioactive components derived from recycled biomass. The guidelines of the European Commission support the reuse of various types of organic biomass and organic waste, thus transforming waste management problems into economic opportunities. This review aims to elucidate the main mechanisms of photoaging and how these can be managed using natural renewable sources and specific bioactive derivatives, such as humic extracts from recycled organic biomass, as potential new actors in modern medicine.

DNA Repair Activation and Cell Death Suppression by Plant Polyphenols in Keratinocytes Exposed to Ultraviolet Irradiation

This work investigated effects of plant polyphenolic compounds (PPs) on responses of cultured human HaCaT keratinocytes to ultraviolet radiation in the C range (UV-C). The experimental data obtained indicate a cytoprotective effect of PPs added immediately after UV-C exposure. The efficiency of PPs was lowered in the following order: acacetin ≥ silybin > quercetin. The influence of PPs on phosphorylation of histone H2AX and the number of single-strand DNA breaks in the nuclei of keratinocytes were also studied. Using the comet assay and γH2AX staining, followed by fluorescence microscopy, it has been established that PPs can reduce DNA damage in the nuclei of keratinocytes exposed to UV-C. It is concluded that PPs can diminish the destructive effect of UV radiation on skin cells, activating the process of repairing genetic damage.

Recent Advances in Herbal-Derived Products with Skin Anti-Aging Properties and Cosmetic Applications

Although aesthetic benefits are a desirable effect of the treatment of skin aging, it is also important in controlling several skin diseases, mainly in aged people. The development of new dermocosmetics has rapidly increased due to consumers' demand for non-invasive products with lower adverse effects than those currently available on the market. Natural compounds of plant origin and herbal-derived formulations have been popularized due to their various safe active products, which act through different mechanisms of action on several signaling pathways for skin aging. Based on this, the aim of the review was to identify the recent advances in herbal-derived product research, including herbal formulations and isolated compounds with skin anti-aging properties. The studies evaluated the biological effects of herbal-derived products in in vitro, ex vivo, and in vivo studies, highlighting the effects that were reported in clinical trials with available pharmacodynamics data that support their protective effects to treat, prevent, or control human skin aging. Thus, it was possible to identify that gallic and ferulic acids and herbal formulations containing Thymus vulgaris, Panax ginseng, Triticum aestivum, or Andrographis paniculata are the most promising natural products for the development of new dermocosmetics with skin anti-aging properties.

Bioassay-Guided Skin-Beneficial Effects of Fractionated Sideritis raeseri subsp. raeseri Extract

This study aimed to evaluate the potentials for skin-beneficial effects of the hydroethanolic extract of the aerial parts of ironwort (Sideritis raeseri Boiss. & Heldr. subsp. raeseri) and its fractions (petroleum ether, ethyl acetate, n-butanol and water). For these purposes, chemical analysis and in vitro antioxidant, anti-tyrosinase and antimicrobial assays, as well as determination of sun protection factor (SPF), were performed. The highest total phenolic content and quantity of individual flavonoids, chlorogenic acid and verbascoside were determined in the n-butanol fraction, which is in line with results obtained for antioxidant activity. The greatest antimicrobial activity against Staphylococcus aureus, Staphylococcus epidermidis and Pseudomonas aeruginosa, the most common causative agents of the skin infections in humans, was exhibited by the ethyl acetate fraction. The strongest anti-tyrosinase activity was shown by the hydroethanolic extract (52.64% of inhibition at 100 μg/mL). Almost all tested samples showed photoprotective activity with SPF higher than 6 obtained at a low concentration of 0.1 mg/mL, which was more than 15 for the butanol fraction. These findings revealed that the hydroethanolic extract of S. raeseri aerial parts could be a valuable ingredient in the formulation of cosmetic and medicinal products intended to overcome various skin disorders.

Recent Green Technologies in Natural Stilbenoids Production and Extraction: The Next Chapter in the Cosmetic Industry

Stilbenoids are well-known phytoalexins in the group of polyphenolic compounds. Because of their potent bioactivities, including antioxidant, antityrosinase, photoprotective, and antibacterial activities, stilbenoids are utilized as pharmaceutical active ingredient in cosmetic products. Thus, the demand for stilbenoids in the cosmetic industry is increasing. The main sources of stilbenoids are plants. Although plants are green and sustainable source materials, some of them do not allow a regular and constant supply due to seasonal and geographic reasons. Stilbenoids typically have been extracted by conventional organic solvent extraction, and then purified by separation techniques. This method is unfriendly to the environment and may deteriorate human health. Hence, the procedures called “green technologies” are focused on novel extraction methods and sustainable stilbenoids production by using biotechnology. In this review, the chemical structures together with the biosynthesis and current plant sources of resveratrol, oxyresveratrol, and piceatannol are described. Furthermore, recent natural deep eutectic solvents (NADES) for green extraction as well as plant cell cultures for the production of those stilbene compounds are updated.

Flower Extracts from Ornamental Plants as Sources of Sunscreen Ingredients: Determination by In Vitro Methods of Photoprotective Efficacy, Antigenotoxicity and Safety

Plants are sources of sunscreen ingredients that prevent cellular mutations involved in skin cancer and aging. This study investigated the sunscreen properties of the extracts from some ornamental plants growing in Colombia. The UV filter capability of the flower extracts obtained from Rosa centifolia L., Posoqueria latifolia (Rudge) Schult, and Ipomoea horsfalliae Hook. was examined. Photoprotection efficacies were evaluated using in vitro indices such as sun protection factor and critical wavelength. UVB antigenotoxicity estimates measured with the SOS Chromotest were also obtained. Extract cytotoxicity and genotoxicity were studied in human fibroblasts using the trypan blue exclusion and Comet assays, respectively. Major compounds of the promising flower extracts were identified by UHPLC–ESI+–Orbitrap–MS. The studied extracts showed high photoprotection efficacy and antigenotoxicity against UVB radiation, but only the P. latifolia extract showed broad-spectrum photoprotection at non-cytotoxic concentrations. The P. latifolia extract appeared to be safer for human fibroblast cells and the R. centifolia extract was shown to be moderately cytotoxic and genotoxic at the highest assayed concentrations. The I. horsfalliae extract was unequivocally cytotoxic and genotoxic. The major constituents of the promising extracts were as follows: chlorogenic acid, ecdysterone 20E, rhamnetin-rutinoside, cis-resveratrol-diglucoside, trans-resveratrol-diglucoside in P. latifolia; quercetin, quercetin-glucoside, quercetin-3-rhamnoside, kaempferol, kaempferol-3-glucoside, and kaempferol-rhamnoside in R. centifolia. The potential of the ornamental plants as sources of sunscreen ingredients was discussed.

Application of Marine Microbial Natural Products in Cosmetics

As the market size of the cosmetics industry increases, the safety and effectiveness of new products face higher requirements. The marine environment selects for species of micro-organisms with metabolic pathways and adaptation mechanisms different from those of terrestrial organisms, resulting in their natural products exhibiting unique structures, high diversity, and significant biological activities. Natural products are usually safe and non-polluting. Therefore, considerable effort has been devoted to searching for cosmetic ingredients that are effective, safe, and natural for marine micro-organisms. However, marine micro-organisms can be difficult, or impossible, to culture because of their special environmental requirements. Metagenomics technology can help to solve this problem. Moreover, using marine species to produce more green and environmentally friendly products through biotransformation has become a new choice for cosmetic manufacturers. In this study, the natural products of marine micro-organisms are reviewed and evaluated with respect to various cosmetic applications.

Analysis of Gliricidia sepium Leaves by MALDI Mass Spectrometry Imaging

When investigating the potential use of plants as a raw material for an all-natural cosmetic formulation, the main parameters are the chemical composition, antioxidant potential, antimicrobial action, and toxicity. Additionally, the production of natural cosmetics should also consider the availability of primary materials and the environmental and socioeconomic impact. Gliricidia sepium is a species that produces a large amount of plant material, being cultivated in the agroforestry system. However, studies of phytochemical composition and chemical spatial distribution are scarcely using the MALDI MS (matrix-assisted laser desorption ionization mass spectrometry) and MALDI MSI (mass spectrometry imaging) techniques. A methodology was developed to optimize ionization parameters and analysis conditions by evaluating the efficiency of three matrices: α-cyano-4-hydroxycinnamic acid, 2,5-dihydroxybenzoic acid (DHB), and 2-mercaptobenzothiazole in MALDI MS analysis. All results were compared to ESI MS (electrospray ionization mass spectrometry), and afterward, MALDI MSI analysis was performed on the leaf surface. This study showed through phytochemical analysis that G. sepium leaves are composed of polyphenols and tannins, concluding that the methanolic extract had a higher amount of flavonoid content. Four compounds were identified on the leaf surface, and their spatial distribution was analyzed by MALDI MS using DHB as a matrix. Kaempferol, isorhamnetin, and some fatty acids showed potential applicability for cosmetical use. All the extracts presented antioxidant activity or antimicrobial action and no cytotoxicity. Therefore, extracts of G. sepium could be used as raw materials in cosmetics.

HPLC-DAD phenolics screening and in vitro investigation of haemostatic, antidiabetic, antioxidant and photoprotective properties of Centaurea tougourensis Boiss. & Reut

Introduction

Traditional medicine has an important place in human history and this since antiquity. Indeed, during Egyptian and Chinese civilization era, many detailed manuscripts, describing the therapeutic effect of plants, were found which suggest that folk medicine is the basis of the actual medicine.

Objective

To investigate the phytochemical and pharmacological properties of the n-butanol (n-BuOH) and ethyl acetate (EA) extracts of the aerial part of Centaurea tougourensis.

Methods

The phytochemical evaluation was done based on HPLC-DAD approach. The antioxidant activity was determined by DPPH and cupric ion reducing antioxidant capacity (CUPRAC), while the hemostatic effect was performed using plasma recalcification time (PRT) method. The antidiabetic capacity was investigated by alpha-amylase inhibition assay and the photoprotective test was evaluated by the measurement of sun protection factor (SPF).

Results

13 phenolic compounds were identified in both extracts of C. tougourensis. These extracts showed antioxidant, haemostatic, antidiabetic and photoprotective properties with a dose-dependent manner. Amounts of n-BuOH activities were found higher, with a respective IC50 value of 0.72±0.07 μg/ml in DPPH assay, an A0.50 value lower than 3.125 μg/ml in CUPRAC assay besides a shortening rate percentage of coagulation (86.71%) in haemostatic assay, a moderate inhibition effect on alpha amylase activity with an IC50 value of (711.5±0.03 μg/ml) and a maximum sun protection factor of (56.035). These results were mostly found highly significant (p<0.001) when compared to respective standards.

Conclusion

This study demonstrated some pharmacological effects of C. tougourensis which suggests that our plant could be a good candidate to treat some illnesses related to oxidative stress, bleeding or skin cancer.

Novel Antioxidant Peptides from Crassostrea Hongkongensis Improve Photo-Oxidation in UV-Induced HaCaT Cells

Enzymatic hydrolysates from Oysters (OAH) display multiple biological activities. Previously, a 3~5 KDa oyster ultrafiltration component (OUP) showed a high property of preventing skin oxidation. Subsequently, we identified specific peptides with such activity. OUP was fractionated stepwise by Sephadex-G25 and RP-HPLC, and active fractions were screened using UV-irradiated HaCaT cells. The most active fractions (OP5-3) were analyzed by LC-MS/MS and a total of 17 peptides were identified. Results from mass spectrometry showed that OP5-3 consisted of peptides with a molecular weight range of 841.51–1786.92 Da. Six of these peptides were synthesized for validating the activity of resisting skin oxidation in the same cell model. All six peptides showed varying degrees of antioxidant activity, while pretreatment of HaCaT cells with AIVAEVNEAAK alleviated UV cytotoxicity, inhibited metalloproteinase 1 (MMP-1) expression, and showed the highest activity to resist UV-induced skin photo-oxidation among these peptides. In addition, results from molecular docking analysis of MMP-1 with AIVAEVNEAAK showed that AIVAEVNEAAK suppresses its enzymatic activity by directly interacting with MMP-1 and thus exhibit anti-photoaging activity.

Nanoencapsulation of sulforaphane in broccoli membrane vesicles and their in vitro antiproliferative activity

CONTEXT

The development of nanocarriers of plant origin, such as plant cell membranes, has recently been investigated. Also, plant bioactive compounds as sulforaphane (SFN) from broccoli have recognized antioxidant or anticancer properties.

OBJECTIVE

To investigate the capacity of membrane vesicles from broccoli (BM-vesicles) to encapsulate SFN and their application in the cancer cell line.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

Physicochemical analysis was carried out to characterize BM-vesicles through different approaches: dynamic light scattering, transmission electron microscopy, stopped-flow analysis, and proteomic analysis. They were applied at different concentrations (BM-vesicles at 0.04-0.00315% of protein and SFN at 5, 25, and 100 µM) in SK-MEL-28 cells during 24 h for studying cytotoxicity and gene expression.

RESULTS

The entrapment efficiency was 41%. The anticancer activity tested in cells showed a decrease in proliferation when SFN in BM-vesicles was utilized. Expression patterns when SFN was applied in an encapsulated form showed a reduction of cancer markers and an increase of AQP3. Also, the metabolism of SFN occurred inside of cells, and higher SFN penetrated when it was encapsulated.

DISCUSSION

The results showed that encapsulated SFN was better absorbed by melanoma cells providing metabolism products and a reduction of cancer molecular markers. Also aquaporin, AQP3 was pointed to as an important marker since it appeared to play a key role in homeostasis due to the importance of water transport in biological processes.

CONCLUSION

These results indicate that SFN and SFN encapsulated in BM-vesicles have a high activity for the inhibition of melanocyte development. Therefore, BM-vesicles could serve as nanocarriers for drugs.

Antiphotoaging properties of Zingiber montanum essential oil isolated by solvent-free microwave extraction against ultraviolet B-irradiated human dermal fibroblasts

Maintaining youthful skin from photoaging with natural products, including essential oils, is a vital strategy that has piqued the interest of researchers in the pharmaceutical and cosmetic industries. This research aimed to investigate the protective properties of Zingiber montanum (J. Koenig) Link ex A. Dietr. essential oil against ultraviolet B (UVB)-induced skin damage and photoaging in normal human dermal fibroblast (HDFn) cells. The essential oil was extracted from fresh plant rhizomes using solvent-free microwave extraction. Its antiphotoaging properties in HDFn cells were investigated using reactive oxygen species (ROS)-scavenging, wound healing, matrix metalloproteinases (MMP-1, MMP-3, and MMP-9) expression, procollagen synthesis, and elastase and tyrosinase inhibitory assays. The results showed that the test oil exhibited no significant toxicity in HDFn at concentrations up to 10 mg/mL, with cell viability exceeding 90%. Following UVB irradiation at 30 mJ/cm², Z. montanum oil demonstrated time and concentration-dependent ROS radical scavenging capabilities. In a cell migration assay, the essential oil demonstrated wound-healing properties. Z. montanum oil suppressed the expression of MMPs and enhanced the synthesis of type I procollagen at a concentration of 0.1-1 mg/mL. In addition, 0.1-1 mg/mL Z. montanum oil inhibited elastase activity in a concentration-dependent manner but did not affect tyrosinase activity. From these findings, the essential oil of Z. montanum could have potential applications in developing cosmeceutical products to prevent skin photoaging.

Chemical Composition and Protective Effect of Young Barley (Hordeum vulgare L.) Dietary Supplements Extracts on UV-Treated Human Skin Fibroblasts in In Vitro Studies

Young barley seems to be a promising material for use as nutricosmetic due to the presence of many biologically active compounds. The aim of this study was to evaluate the effect of Hordeum vulgare L. extracts on human skin fibroblasts exposed to ultraviolet radiation B (UVB) radiation. Analysis of the chemical composition showed a predominance of 9,12,15-octadecatrienoic acid. The quality assessment showed that young barley preparations have high total polyphenolic content (TPC) and favourable total antioxidant status (TAS). They also contain antioxidant elements such as zinc, copper, and selenium. Furthermore, the analyzed products were found to be safe in terms of toxic elements (lead, cadmium and mercury) and lack of cytotoxic effect of young barley extracts on cells. In vitro bioactivity assays showed that young barley extract increased the survival rate and accelerated the migration of fibroblasts in research models with UVB radiation. The application of both extracts caused an increase in DNA biosynthesis, and in the number of cells arrested in S phase. Moreover, an inhibitory effect of the tested extracts on the expression of matrix metalloproteinase 2 (MMP-2) and matrix metalloproteinase 9 (MMP-9) was observed. The results indicate that young barley extracts, due to protective as well as restorative effect, could potentially be used in the production of nutricosmetics and skin care products.

Improvement of Skin Barrier Dysfunction by Phenolic-containing Extracts of Lycium barbarum via Nrf2/HO-1 Regulation

Lycium barbarum have received an increasing popularity due to its powerful biological activity and medicinal use. However, the effect of Lycium barbarum on skin remains largely uncharacterized. The general purpose of this paper was to characterize the phenolic compounds in Lycium barbarum extract (LBE) using LC-HRMS/QTOF method and to investigate whether topical administration of LBE can repair skin barrier dysfunction in mice. Our data demonstrated that LBE could not only decrease ROS level and matrix metalloproteinase expression, but also strengthen intrinsic antioxidant defense system including SOD, GSH-Px and CAT, thereby resulting in increased skin collagen content and an improvement of UV-induced skin erythema, thickness and wrinkles. Improved skin barrier functions were highly correlated with increased expression of filaggrin, involucrin and loricrin as well as antioxidant proteins such as Nrf2 and HO-1 in UV-irradiated mice, suggesting that LBE may be promising natural products at a lower cost for the topical application in the treatment of skin diseases with defective barrier function.

Protection against UVB deleterious skin effects in a mouse model: effect of a topical emulsion containing Cordia verbenacea extract

Cordia verbenacea DC (Boraginaceae) is a flowering shrub found along the Brazilian Atlantic Forest, Brazilian coast, and low areas of the Amazon. The crude extract of its leaves is widely used in Brazilian folk medicine as an anti-inflammatory, both topically and orally. The aim of this study is to evaluate the activity of C. verbenacea ethanolic leaves extract (CVE) against UVB-triggered cutaneous inflammation and oxidative damage in hairless mice. CVE treatment recovered cutaneous antioxidant capacity demonstrated by scavenging ABTS⁺ free radical and iron-reducing antioxidant potential evaluated by FRAP. CVE also controlled the following UV-triggered events in the skin: reduced glutathione (GSH) depletion, catalase activity decrease, and superoxide anion (O^⋅-) build-up. Furthermore, mice treated with CVE exhibited less inflammation, shown by the reduction in COX-2 expression, TNF-α, IL-1β, IL-6, edema, and neutrophil infiltration. CVE also regulated epidermal thickening and sunburn cells, reduced dermal mast cells, and preserved collagen integrity. The best results were obtained using 5% CVE-added emulsion. The present data demonstrate that topical administration of CVE presents photochemoprotective activity in a mouse model of UVB inflammation and oxidative stress. Because of the intricate network linking inflammation, oxidative stress, and skin cancer, these results also indicate the importance of further studies elucidating a possible role of C. verbenacea in the prevention of UVB-induced skin cancer and evaluating a potential synergy between CVE and sunscreens in topical products against UVB damaging effects to the skin.

In Vitro Determination of Sun Protection Factor of Water Extract of Aerodramus fuciphagus from Central Kalimantan

Sunscreen is a cosmetic substance that has the ability to reflect or absorb sunlight actively. It can prevent skin irritation due to UV rays. One of the natural ingredients with a sunscreen effect is the Edible-nest swiftlet's (Aerodramus fuciphagus) nest (ESN). This study aimed to determine the value of the sun protective factor (SPF) of the ESN water extract. The ESN water extract solution with variation concentration, this is 2000, 2500, 5000, 6000, and 7000 ppm, were measured by spectrophotometric UV-Vis at wavelength 290-375 nm with 5 nm intervals to determine the value of SPF, percentage of erythema transmission (%Te), and percentage of pigmentation transmission (%Tp) of ESN water extract. The result showed that the ESN water extract's SPF values at the concentration 2000, 2500, 5000, 6000, and 7000 ppm were 7.80; 9.68; 18.75; 20.58; and 22.24. The value of %Te of each concentration were 15.60±0.19; 10.03±0.42; 1.24±0.04; 0.81±0.01 and 0.56±0.01. While the value of %Tp of each concentration was showed the sunblock category. In conclusion, the ESN water extract from Central Kalimantan at the concentration of 6000 ppm has potential in ultraviolet protection against the skin in the ultra category with sunblock category mechanism. Further, it can be developed into sunscreen cosmetics from natural ingredients.

Zn(ferulate)-LSH Systems as Multifunctional Filters

Excessive UV solar radiation exposure causes human health risks; therefore, the study of multifunctional filters is important to skin UV protective ability and also to other beneficial activities to the human organism, such as reduction of reactive oxygen species (ROS) responsible for cellular damages. Potential multifunctional filters were obtained by intercalating of ferulate anions into layered simple metal hydroxides (LSH) through anion exchange and precipitation at constant pH methods. Ultrasound treatment was used in order to investigate the structural changes in LSH-ferulate materials. Structural and spectroscopic analyses show the formation of layered materials composed by a mixture of LSH intercalated with ferulate anions, where carboxylate groups of ferulate species interact with LSH layers. UV-VIS absorption spectra and in vitro SPF measurements indicate that LSH-ferulate systems have UV shielding capacity, mainly UVB protection. The results of reactive species assays show the ability of layered compounds in capture DPPH^•, ABTS^•+, ROO^•, and HOCl/OCl⁻ reactive species. LSH-ferulate materials exhibit antioxidant activity and singular optical properties that enable their use as multifunctional filters.

Inhibition of UVA Damage on Human Skin Dermis Fibroblasts by the Isoflavonoid Intermediate Deoxybenzoin-3A

Ultraviolet rays are the main cause of skin aging. Isoflavone structures are good anti-ultraviolet natural compounds and have an especially strong anti-ultraviolet B (UVB) effect. However, the anti-ultraviolet A (UVA) effect of isoflavones is more controversial. Therefore, this study aims to discover which isoflavone analogue possesses a strong anti-ultraviolet A. We found the isoflavonoid intermediate deoxybenzoin-3A (DOB-3A) to be a similar isoflavone structural compound with strong anti-ultraviolet A effects. Ultraviolet rays with a wavelength of 350 nm are used to irradiate the fibroblasts of the human skin. Western blot, flow cytometry, and transmission electron microscope analyses were used to explore its anti-ultraviolet A mechanism. We established the results that DOB-3A (1) reduced the death of fibroblasts caused by ultraviolet A, (2) avoided the damage to the organelles and structures after UVA irradiation, (3) inhibited the generation of intracellular reactive oxygen species (ROS) and hydrogen peroxide-induced damage, and (4) decreased the phosphorylation of mitogen-activated protein kinases (MAPK) caused by UVA. Based on the above findings, DOB-3A is a very good anti-ultraviolet A isoflavone-related structure. Because it is simple to synthesize and has good effects, DOB-3A is a suitable anti-ultraviolet A product with an isoflavone structure. Moreover, DOB-3A's structure provides a reference for the synthesis of anti-UVA isoflavones.

Tracing skin aging process: a mini- review of in vitro approaches

Skin is a rather complex, yet useful organ of our body. Besides, skin aging is a complicated process that gains a growing interest as mediates many molecular processes in our body. Thus, an efficient skin model is important to understand skin aging function as well as to develop an effective innovative product for skin aging treatment. In this mini review, we present in vitro methods for assessments of skin aging in an attempt to pinpoint basic molecular mechanisms behind this process achieving both a better understanding of aging function and an effective  evaluation of potential products or ingredients that counteract aging. Specifically, this study presents in vitro assays such as 2D or 3D skin models, to evaluate skin aging-related processes such as skin moisturization, photoaging, wound healing, menopause, and skin microbiome as novel efforts in the designing of efficacy assessments in the development of skincare products.

Ultraviolet blocking and antioxidant polyvinyl alcohol films incorporated with baicalin extraction from Scutellaria baicalensis Georgi

Baicalin, an active flavonoid ingredient of Scutellaria baicalensis Georgi, was extracted by heat reflux extraction and showed the same significance UV absorption property with standard baicalin. Active films were prepared from polyvinyl alcohol (PVA) containing baicalin extract by casting method. The effect of baicalin extracts on the UV-blocking, optical, antioxidant property, water vapor permeability, swelling and mechanical properties of the films were studied. UV–vis transmittance spectra showed that PVA films incorporated with baicalin extract blocked ultraviolet light range from 280–400 nm even with low concentration of baicalin (0.5 wt%) and maintain the high transparency in visible spectrum. The outstanding UV-blocking properties of PVA films incorporated with baicalin extract were also confirmed by Rhodamine B degradation. Baicalin conferred antioxidant properties to PVA films as determined by DPPH radical scavenging activity. Due to the interaction between hydroxy groups of baicalin and PVA molecule, water vapor permeability, swelling and elongation at break of the films were decreased accompanied with the increasing in tensile strength and Young’s modulus. FTIR reveal that the interaction between PVA molecules was significant changed by the introduction of baicalin. These results suggest that PVA film incorporated with baicalin extract can be used for the development of functional protective film.

Proniosomal Gel for Topical Delivery of Rutin: Preparation, Physicochemical Characterization and In Vitro Toxicological Profile Using 3D Reconstructed Human Epidermis Tissue and 2D Cells

Rutin (Rut) is a natural flavonol, well-known for its broad-spectrum of therapeutic effects, including antioxidant and antitumoral activities; still, it has a reduced clinical outcome due to its limited solubility in aqueous solutions. To overcome this drawback, this study proposes a novel formulation for rutin as a proniosomal gel for cutaneous applications. The gel was prepared by coacervation phase-separation method and complies with the standard requirements in terms of particle size (140.5 ± 2.56 nm), zeta potential (−27.33 ± 0.09 mV), encapsulation capacity (> 50%), pH (7.002 ± 0.18) and rheological properties. The results showed high biocompatibility of the gel on the 3D reconstructed human epidermis model characterized by increased viability of the cells and a lack of irritant and phototoxic potential. The evaluations on 2D cells confirm the preferential cytotoxic effect of Rut on melanoma cells (IC₅₀ value = 8.601 µM, nuclear fragmentation) compared to normal keratinocytes. Our data suggest that the proniosomal gel is a promising drug carrier for Rut in the management and prevention of skin disorders.

The dose-response effect on polyphenol bioavailability after intake of white and red wine pomace products by Wistar rats

Wine pomace by-products are an important source of phenolic acids with significant health benefits. However, phenolic acid bioavailability in vivo has been little studied and there are few comparative studies on bioavailability between red and white wine pomace and the effect of intake of different doses. The qualitative and quantitative profile of phenolic acid metabolites in plasma and urine samples from Wistar rats was obtained by gas chromatography/mass detection, after oral administration of four doses (50, 100, 150, and 300 mg) of both the red and the white wine pomace products (rWPP and wWPP, respectively). The antioxidant capacity of the plasma samples assessed by both the ABTS and the FRAP levels was also evaluated. The results showed that neither the bioavailability nor the antioxidant capacity in vivo of the rWPP increased at high doses. However, both parameters were dependent on the intake of the wWPP.

Integrating DNA damage response and autophagy signalling axis in ultraviolet-B induced skin photo-damage: a positive association in protecting cells against genotoxic stress

The skin acts as both physical as well as an immunological barrier against hazardous agents from the outside environment and protects the internal organs against damage. Skin ageing is a dynamic process caused by the influence of various external factors, including damage from ultraviolet (UV-B) radiation, which is known as photo-ageing, and due to internal chronological mechanisms. A normal ageing process requires several orchestrated defense mechanisms to diverse types of stress responses, the concomitant renewal of cellular characteristics, and the homeostasis of different cell types that directly or indirectly protect the integrity of skin. Cumulative oxidative and endoplasmic reticulum (ER) stress responses and their adverse impact on biological systems in the skin are a common mechanism of the ageing process, negatively impacting DNA by causing mutations that lead to many physiological, functional, and aesthetic changes in the skin, culminating in the development of many diseases, including photo-damage and photo-carcinogenesis. Exposure of the skin to ultraviolet-(B) elicits the activation of signal transduction pathways, including DNA damage response, autophagy, and checkpoint signal adaptations associated with clearing radiation-induced DNA damage. Recent experimental reports suggest that autophagy is involved in maintaining skin homeostasis upon encountering different stresses, notably genotoxic stress. It has also been revealed that autophagy positively regulates the recognition of DNA damage by nucleotide excision repair and that skin ageing is associated with defects in the autophagy process. Moreover, autophagy is constitutively active in the skin epithelium, imparting protection to skin cells against a diverse range of outside insults, thus increasing resistance to environmental stressors. It has also been found that the stress-induced suppression of the autophagy response in experimental settings leads to enhanced apoptosis during photo-ageing upon UV-B exposure and that the maintenance of homeostasis depends on cellular autophagy levels. More recent reports in this domain claim that relieving the oxidative-stress-mediated induction of the ER stress response upon UV-B irradiation protects skin cells from photo-damage effects. The integration of autophagy and the DNA damage response under genotoxic stress is being considered as a meaningful partnership for finding novel molecular targets and devising suitable therapeutic strategies against photo-ageing disorders. Here, we summarize and review the current understanding of the mechanisms governing the intricate interplay between autophagy and the DNA damage response and its regulation by UV-B, the roles of autophagy in regulating the cellular response to UV-B-induced photodamage, and the implications of the modulation of autophagy as a meaningful partnership in the treatment and prevention of photoaging disorders.

Sweet Cherry Byproducts Processed by Green Extraction Techniques as a Source of Bioactive Compounds with Antiaging Properties

In the cosmetic industry, there is a continuous demand for new and innovative ingredients for product development. In the context of continual renovation, both cosmetic companies and customers are particularly interested in compounds derived from natural sources due to their multiple benefits. In this study, novel and green-extractive techniques (pressurized solvent, supercritical CO₂, and subcritical water extractions) were used to obtain three new extracts from sweet cherry stems, a byproduct generated by the food industry. The extracts were characterized by high-performance liquid chromatography coupled to quadrupole-time-of-flight mass spectrometry (HPLC-ESI-QTOF-MS), and 57 compounds, mainly flavonoids but also organic and phenolic acids, fatty acids, and terpenes, were identified. After analytical characterization, a multistep screening approach, including antioxidant, enzymatic, and photoprotective cellular studies, was used to select the best extract according to its benefits of interest to the cosmetics industry. The extract obtained with supercritical CO₂ presented the best characteristics, including a wide antioxidant capacity, especially against lipid peroxyl and ^•OH free radicals, as well as relevant photoprotective action and antiaging properties, making it a potential new ingredient for consideration in the development of new cosmetics.

A Melanin-Related Phenolic Polymer with Potent Photoprotective and Antioxidant Activities for Dermo-Cosmetic Applications

Eumelanins, the dark variant of skin pigments, are endowed with a remarkable antioxidant activity and well-recognized photoprotective properties that have been ascribed to pigment components derived from the biosynthetic precursor 5,6-dihydroxyindole-2-carboxylic acid (DHICA). Herein, we report the protective effect of a polymer obtained starting from the methyl ester of DHICA (MeDHICA-melanin) against Ultraviolet A (UVA)-induced oxidative stress in immortalized human keratinocytes (HaCaT). MeDHICA-melanin was prepared by aerial oxidation of MeDHICA. At concentrations as low as 10 µg/mL, MeDHICA-melanin prevented reactive oxygen species accumulation and partially reduced glutathione oxidation in UVA-irradiated keratinocytes. Western blot experiments revealed that the polymer is able to induce the translocation of nuclear factor erythroid 2–related factor 2 (Nrf-2) to the nucleus with the activation of the transcription of antioxidant enzymes, such as heme-oxygenase 1. Spectrophotometric and HPLC analysis of cell lysate allowed to conclude that a significant fraction (ca. 7%), consisting mainly of the 4,4′-dimer of MeDHICA (ca. 2 μM), was internalized in the cells. Overall these data point to the potential use of MeDHICA-melanin as an antioxidant for the treatment of skin damage, photoaging and skin cancers.

Photoprotection assessment of olive (Olea europaea L.) leaves extract standardized to oleuropein: In vitro and in silico approach for improved sunscreens

Olive leaves contain higher amount of polyphenols than olive oil and represent a waste product from olive harvest and pruning of olive trees. The most abundant compound in olive leaves is oleuropein. Benefits of the topical application of olive leaves extract were previously reported, but little information is available on its photoprotective potential and the result of the association of this extract with organic UV filters in topical sunscreen formulations. The olive leaves extract photoprotective potential is less explored for both oral and topical photoprotection in comparison with other plants extracts and polyphenols, such as Polypodium leucotomos extract and resveratrol. There are increasing efforts towards developing more efficient sunscreens and a photoprotection assessement along with a better understanding of the photochemistry of naturally occurring sunscreens could aid the design of new and improved commercial sunscreen formulations. This study was designed to investigate the photoprotective potential of olive leaves extract standardized for oleuropein performing a set of in vitro and in silico tools as an innovative approach, highlighting yeast assays, in vitro Sun Protection Factor (SPF) and molecular modelling studies of UV absorption. This study supports the use of olive leaves extract for photoprotection, as an effective photoprotective, anti-mutagenic and antioxidant active, also showing a synergistic effect in association with UV filters with an improvement on in vitro SPF of sunscreen formulations.

Novel Lipidized Derivatives of the Bioflavonoid Hesperidin: Dermatological, Cosmetic and Chemopreventive Applications

Hesperidin is one of the most important natural flavonoids, known for its antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, anti-mutagenic, and anti-hypertensive properties. Despite its various biological activities, hesperidin is rarely used in the dermo-cosmetic field because of its poor solubility in both water and oil phases that makes difficult formulation, distribution and bioavailability through the skin layers. Moreover, hesperidin is still underestimated in skin care products, and literature data on its stability into a topical formulation are not yet available. In this paper we report the synthesis of five different derivatives of hesperidin and their evaluation in terms of antioxidant, antifungal, antiproliferative, and apoptotic effects on human leukemic K562 cells. Preliminary antiproliferative effects were considered since hyper-proliferation is involved in several cutaneous problems particularly in the case of photo-exposition and environmental pollution. Esp4 and Esp5 were found to be more active in inhibiting K562 cell growth than parent hesperidin. Esp3 exhibited different biological properties, i.e., antioxidant activity in the absence of antiproliferative effects.

Use of Flavonoids and Cinnamates, the Main Photoprotectors with Natural Origin

Many pathological problems are initiated by ultraviolet radiation (UVR), such as skin cancer, the most commonly diagnosed cancer worldwide. The UVA (320–400 nm) and UVB (290–320 nm) wavelengths may cause effects such as photoaging, DNA damage, and a series of cellular alterations. The UVA radiation can damage the DNA, oxidize the lipids, and produce dangerous free radicals, which can cause inflammation, modify the gene expression in response to stress, and weaken the skin immune response. With a minor penetration, the UVB radiation is more harmful, being responsible for immediate damage. Ultraviolet radiation light emitted by the sun is considered necessary for the existence of life but cause radiation problems, especially in the skin. The photoprotective activities of plant extracts and isolated composts were evaluated by many reports, as well as the correlation of these compounds with the antioxidant activity. This review presents plant compounds with interest to the cosmetic industry to be used in sunscreens such as flavonoids and cinnamates.

The Aging Face

The aging face is a popular topic in modern medicine. To understand and treat unwanted signs of aging, it is imperative to understand the biological and physical causes and contributing factors to facial aging, preventative measures to avoid advanced facial aging, and current treatment options. Changes to the human face are progressive with time; however, there are many methods, both surgical and nonsurgical, to reduce the stigmata of aging and provide patients with the appearance they desire. The process of aging is discussed in this article, as well as the multiple treatment options, both surgical and nonsurgical.

Antioxidants from Plants Protect against Skin Photoaging

Exposure to UV light triggers the rapid generation and accumulation of reactive oxygen species (ROS) in skin cells, with consequent increase in oxidative stress and thus in photoaging. Exogenous supplementation with dietary antioxidants and/or skin pretreatment with antioxidant-based lotions before sun exposure might be a winning strategy against age-related skin pathologies. In this context, plants produce many secondary metabolites to protect themselves from UV radiations and these compounds can also protect the skin from photoaging. Phenolic compounds, ascorbic acid and carotenoids, derived from different plant species, are able to protect the skin by preventing UV penetration, reducing inflammation and oxidative stress, and influencing several survival signalling pathways. In this review, we focus our attention on the double role of oxidants in cell metabolism and on environmental and xenobiotic agents involved in skin photoaging. Moreover, we discuss the protective role of dietary antioxidants from fruits and vegetables and report their antiaging properties related to the reduction of oxidative stress pathways.

A Specific Melon Concentrate Exhibits Photoprotective Effects from Antioxidant Activity in Healthy Adults

Skin is the largest body organ and the first barrier to exogenous threats. This organ is constantly exposed to external factors such as ultraviolet radiation, which induces many adverse effects including sunburn, depigmentation, photo aging, photo immune suppression, and even skin cancer. Antioxidants seem to be good candidates in order to reduce ultraviolet-mediated damages and to prevent the health consequences of ultraviolet exposure. The present investigation aims to further characterize the potential skin photoprotective effects of a food supplementation and a topical administration of a melon concentrate alone or in combination. A clinical study assessing the Minimal Erythema Dose (MED) was first set up to evaluate photoprotection. Afterward, an independent in vitro study was performed on human skin explants from a donor to evaluate the effect of the melon concentrate at different levels including on the sunburn cells formation and on the endogenous antioxidant enzymes and its influence on melanin. Clinical study results demonstrate that melon concentrate application and/or supplementation increased MED. It also increased the endogenous antioxidant enzymes and reduced sunburn cells and melanin level on irradiated skin explants. Therefore, it is suggested that melon concentrate administration (oral and/or topical) could be a useful strategy for photoprotection due to its antioxidant properties.