Differential regulation of tyrosinase activity in skin of white and black individuals in vivo by topical retinoic acid

Retinoids in the treatment of photoageing: A histological study of topical retinoid efficacy in black skin

BACKGROUND

Photoageing describes complex cutaneous changes that occur due to chronic exposure to solar ultraviolet radiation (UVR). The 'gold standard' for the treatment of photoaged white skin is all-trans retinoic acid (ATRA); however, cosmetic retinol (ROL) has also proven efficacious. Recent work has identified that black skin is susceptible to photoageing, characterized by disintegration of fibrillin-rich microfibrils (FRMs) at the dermal-epidermal junction (DEJ). However, the impact of topical retinoids for repair of black skin has not been well investigated.

OBJECTIVES

To determine the potential of retinoids to repair photoaged black skin.

METHODS

An exploratory intervention study was performed using an in vivo, short-term patch test protocol. Healthy but photoaged black volunteers (>45 years) were recruited to the study, and participant extensor forearms were occluded with either 0.025% ATRA (n = 6; 4-day application due to irritancy) or ROL (12-day treatment protocol for a cosmetic) at concentrations of 0.3% (n = 6) or 1% (n = 6). Punch biopsies from occluded but untreated control sites and retinoid-treated sites were processed for histological analyses of epidermal characteristics, melanin distribution and dermal remodelling.

RESULTS

Treatment with ATRA and ROL induced significant acanthosis (all p < 0.001) accompanied by a significant increase in keratinocyte proliferation (Ki67; all p < 0.01), dispersal of epidermal melanin and restoration of the FRMs at the DEJ (all p < 0.01), compared to untreated control.

CONCLUSIONS

This study confirms that topical ATRA has utility for the repair of photoaged black skin and that ROL induces comparable effects on epidermal and dermal remodelling, albeit over a longer timeframe. The effects of topical retinoids on black photoaged skin are similar to those reported for white photoaged skin and suggest conserved biology in relation to repair of UVR-induced damage. Further investigation of topical retinoid efficacy in daily use is warranted for black skin.

Multifaceted amelioration of cutaneous photoageing by (0.3%) retinol

BACKGROUND

Although retinol skin care products improve the appearance of photoaged skin, there is a need for an effective retinol concentration that provides skin benefits without irritation.

OBJECTIVE

To compare the efficacy of topical 0.1%, 0.3% and 1% retinol in remodelling the cutaneous architecture in an in vivo experimental patch test study, and to determine tolerance of the most effective formulations when used in a daily in-use escalation study.

METHODS

For the patch test study, retinol products were applied under occlusion, to the extensor forearm of photoaged volunteers (n = 5; age range 66-84 years), and 3 mm skin biopsies obtained after 12 days. Effects of different retinol concentrations, and a vehicle control, on key epidermal and dermal biomarkers of cellular proliferation and dermal remodelling were compared to untreated baseline. Separately, participants (n = 218) recorded their tolerance to 0.3% or 1% retinol over a six-week, approved regimen, which gradually increased the facial applications to once nightly.

RESULTS

Retinol treatment induced a stepwise increase in epidermal thickness and induced the expression of stratum corneum proteins, filaggrin and KPRP. 0.3% retinol and 1% retinol were comparably effective at inducing keratinocyte proliferation in the epidermis, whilst reducing e-cadherin expression. Fibrillin-rich microfibril deposition was increased following treatment with 0.3% and 1% retinol (p < 0.01); other dermal components remained unaltered (e.g., fibronectin, collagen fibrils, elastin), and no evidence of local inflammation was detected. The in-use study found that 0.3% retinol was better tolerated than 1% retinol, with fewer and milder adverse events reported (χ² (1) = 23.97; p < 0.001).

CONCLUSIONS

This study suggests that 1% and 0.3% retinol concentrations were similarly effective at remodelling photodamaged skin in an in vivo model of long-term use. Use of 0.3% retinol in the escalation study was associated with fewer adverse reactions when applied daily. Hence, 0.3% retinol may be better tolerated than 1% retinol, thereby allowing longer-term topical application.

Parkinson's Disease and Melanoma: Co-Occurrence and Mechanisms

Parkinson's disease (PD) is a neurodegenerative disorder that is characterized by loss of dopaminergic neurons in the substantia nigra pars compacta, depletion of dopamine in the striatum and the presence of Lewy bodies. Cancer is uncontrolled growth of cells in the body and migration of these cells from their site of origin to other parts of the body. PD and cancer are two opposite diseases, one arising from cell proliferation and the other from cell degeneration. This fundamental difference is consistent with inverse comorbidity between most cancers and neurodegenerative diseases. However, a positive association of PD and melanoma has been reported which has recently become of significant interest. A link between PD and cancer has been supported by many epidemiological studies, most of which show that PD patients have a lower risk of developing most cancers than the general population. However, the mechanisms underlying this epidemiological observation are not known. In this review we focus on epidemiological studies correlating PD and melanoma and the possible mechanisms underlying the co-occurrence of the two diseases. We explore possible explanations for the important observations that more PD patients develop melanoma that would otherwise be expected and vice-versa.

Oral supplementation of L-glutathione prevents ultraviolet B-induced melanogenesis and oxidative stress in BALB/c mice

Dietary antioxidant supplements such as L-glutathione have gained considerable attention in dermatology and cosmeceutical fields. L-glutathione possesses antiaging, antimelanogenic, antioxidant, and anticancer properties. This study aimed to investigate the inhibitory effects of L-glutathione on melanogenesis activity and oxidative stress in ultraviolet B (UVB)-irradiated BALB/c mice. Eighteen female BALB/c mice were randomly divided into 3 groups: a control group (n=6), a group without UVB irradiation and L-glutathione administration; a UVB irradiated group (n=6), a group irradiated with a UVB dose of 250 mJ/cm² for 3 min; and a treatment group (n=6), a group irradiated with UVB and treated with 100 mg/kg of L-glutathione by oral gavage. Treatment was given for 14 days, and UVB irradiation was given on days 9, 11, and 13. Oral L-glutathione significantly (P<0.05) reduced lipid peroxidation and elevated superoxide dismutase activity the and glutathione level. L-glutathione also inhibited melanin content and tyrosinase activity significantly (P<0.05) as compared with the UVB-irradiated group. Histopathological examination also showed that L-glutathione reduced the deposition of melanin pigment in the basal layer of the epidermis as compared with that in UVB-irradiated mice. All in all, the present study demonstrated that L-glutathione has the potential to be developed as a photoprotection agent against UVB-induced oxidative stress and melanogenesis.

Retinoic acid and cancer treatment

Retinoic acid which belongs to the retinoid class of chemical compounds is an important metabolite of vitamin A in diets. It is currently understood that retinoic acid plays important roles in cell development and differentiation as well as cancer treatment. Lung, prostate, breast, ovarian, bladder, oral, and skin cancers have been demonstrated to be suppressed by retinoic acid. Our results also show that low doses and high doses of retinoic acid may respectively cause cell cycle arrest and apoptosis of cancer cells. Also, the common cell cycle inhibiting protein, p27, and the new cell cycle regulator, Cdk5, are involved in retinoic acid’s effects. These results provide new evidence indicating that the molecular mechanisms of/in retinoic acid may control cancer cells’ fates. Since high doses of retinoic acid may lead to cytotoxicity, it is probably best utilized as a potential supplement in one’s daily diet to prevent or suppress cancer progression. In this review, we have collected numerous references demonstrating the findings of retinoic acid in melanoma, hepatoma, lung cancer, breast cancer, and prostate cancer. We hope these observations will shed light on the future investigation of retinoic acid in cancer prevention and therapy.

Genome-wide transcriptome analysis of human epidermal melanocytes

Because human epidermal melanocytes (HEMs) provide critical protection against skin cancer, sunburn, and photoaging, a genome-wide perspective of gene expression in these cells is vital to understanding human skin physiology. In this study we performed high throughput sequencing of HEMs to obtain a complete data set of transcript sizes, abundances, and splicing. As expected, we found that melanocyte specific genes that function in pigmentation were among the highest expressed genes. We analyzed receptor, ion channel and transcription factor gene families to get a better understanding of the cell signaling pathways used by melanocytes. We also performed a comparative transcriptomic analysis of lightly versus darkly pigmented HEMs and found 16 genes differentially expressed in the two pigmentation phenotypes; of those, only one putative melanosomal transporter (SLC45A2) has known function in pigmentation. In addition, we found 166 transcript isoforms expressed exclusively in one pigmentation phenotype, 17 of which are genes involved in signal transduction. Our melanocyte transcriptome study provides a comprehensive view and may help identify novel pigmentation genes and potential pharmacological targets.

Biphasic pro-melanogenic and pro-apoptotic effects of all-trans-retinoic acid (ATRA) on human melanocytes: time-course study

BACKGROUND

The effects of retinoids on melanogenesis and their mechanism as depigmenting agents in topical therapy have not been fully elucidated. Conflicting data about their impact on melanogenic pathways have been reported.

OBJECTIVE

To investigate the effects of all-trans-retinoic acid (ATRA) on normal human melanocytes from Caucasian subjects.

METHODS

We assessed ATRA's cytotoxicity by measuring viability with a cell proliferation assay, and apoptotic effects using Annexin V and γ-H2AX markers. ATRA's melanogenic activity was investigated based on spectrophotometric measurement of melanin content and tyrosinase enzymatic activity. Tyrosinase expression was assessed by Western blotting. We tested the antioxidant activity of superoxide dismutase (SOD) and catalase (CAT) in melanocytes using a spectrophotometric assay.

RESULTS

Of the concentrations tested in this 72h time-course study, the 1.0μM ATRA had a well-defined two-stage pro-melanogenic and pro-apoptotic effect on melanocytes. In the first 6h, treated cells showed significant increase (p≤0.01) of melanin content, tyrosinase, SOD, and CAT activities compared to the controls. While overall tyrosinase expression was not affected by ATRA, all other tested parameters decreased progressively beyond the short-term point of 6h. ATRA treatment of over 6h induced melanocyte apoptosis, as shown by the time-dependent decrease in cell viability, coupled with significant increase in Annexin V positive cells and nuclear accumulation of γ-H2AX foci.

CONCLUSION

The results obtained using this testing platform show a biphasic ATRA action: immediate pro-melanogenic effect and longer-term exposure pro-apoptotic activity. These data qualify ATRA as a potent tool to better understand the mechanisms that regulate the pigmentary system.

The association between Parkinson's disease and melanoma

Parkinson's disease (PD) is a neurodegenerative disorder characterized by a loss of melanin-positive, dopaminergic neurons in the substantia nigra. Although there is convincing epidemiologic evidence of a negative association between PD and most cancers, a notable exception to this is that melanoma, a malignant tumor of melanin-producing cells in skin, occurs with higher-than-expected frequency among subjects with PD and that melanoma patients are more likely to have PD. A clear biological explanation for this epidemiological observation is lacking. Here, we present a comprehensive review of published literature exploring the association between PD and melanoma. On the basis of published findings, we conclude that (i) changes in pigmentation including melanin synthesis and/or melanin synthesis enzymes, such as tyrosinase and tyrosine hydroxylase, play important roles in altered vulnerability for both PD and melanoma; (ii) changes of PD-related genes such as Parkin, LRRK2 and α-synuclein may increase the risk of melanoma; (iii) changes in some low-penetrance genes such as cytochrome p450 debrisoquine hydroxylase locus, glutathione S-transferase M1 and vitamin D receptor could increase the risk for both PD and melanoma and (iv) impaired autophagy in both PD and melanoma could also explain the association between PD and melanoma. Future studies are required to address whether altered pigmentation, PD- or melanoma-related gene changes and/or changes in autophagy function induce oncogenesis or apoptosis. From a clinical point of view, early diagnosis of melanoma in PD patients is critical and can be enhanced by periodic dermatological surveillance, including skin biopsies.

Analysis of cultured human melanocytes based on polymorphisms within the SLC45A2/MATP, SLC24A5/NCKX5, and OCA2/P loci

Single nucleotide polymorphisms (SNPs) within the SLC45A2/MATP, SLC24A5/NCKX5, and OCA2/P genes have been associated with natural variation of pigmentation traits in human populations. Here, we describe the characterization of human primary melanocytic cells genotyped for polymorphisms within the MATP, NCKX5, or OCA2 loci. On the basis of genotype, these cultured cells reflect the phenotypes observed by others in terms of both melanin content and tyrosinase (TYR) activity when comparing skin designated as either "White" or "Black". We found a statistically significant association of MATP-374L (darker skin) with higher TYR protein abundance that was not observed for any NCKX5-111 or OCA2 rs12913832 allele. MATP-374L/L homozygous strains displayed significantly lower MATP transcript levels compared to MATP-374F/F homozygous cells, but this did not reach statistical significance based on NCKX5 or OCA2 genotype. Similarly, we observed significantly increased levels of OCA2 mRNA in rs12913832-T (brown eye) homozygotes compared to rs12913832-C (blue eye) homozygous strains, which was not observed for MATP or NCKX5 gene transcripts. In genotype-phenotype associations performed on a collection of 226 southern European individuals using these same SNPs, we were able to show strong correlations in MATP-L374F, OCA2, and melanocortin-1 receptor with skin, eye, and hair color variation, respectively.

Retinoid therapy of pigmentary disorders

Topical retinoids such as all-trans-retinoic acid (RA), 13-cis-retinoic acid (isotretinoin), retinol, retinaldehyde, tazarotene, and adapalene have been shown to improve dyspigmentation of photodamaged skin including mottling and actinic lentigines. RA monotherapy has also been demonstrated to improve melasma and postinflammatory hypermelanosis. Furthermore, RA in combination with hydroquinone or 4-hydroxyanisole, or azelaic acid increases the potency of depigmenting agents for the treatment of melasma, actinic lentigines, and postinflammatory hypermelanosis. The basic mechanisms underlying these effects are not completely identified. Topical retinoids stimulate the cell turn-over of epidermal keratinocytes and promote a decrease in melanosome transfer and a rapid loss of melanins via epidermopoiesis. Topical retinoids are also involved in the control of cell differentiation. Retinoid-induced changes in the stratum corneum and the permeability barrier may also facilitate the penetration of depigmenting agents in the epidermis and increase their bioavailability, leading to increased depigmentation. In addition, several in vitro studies demonstrate that cis and trans-retinoic acid inhibit UV-B stimulated melanogenesis in term of tyrosinase activity and melanin synthesis. It is likely that topical retinoids modulate epidermal melanin count via a direct action on melanocytes and epidermal keratinocytes.

Melanin pigmentation in mammalian skin and its hormonal regulation

Cutaneous melanin pigment plays a critical role in camouflage, mimicry, social communication, and protection against harmful effects of solar radiation. Melanogenesis is under complex regulatory control by multiple agents interacting via pathways activated by receptor-dependent and -independent mechanisms, in hormonal, auto-, para-, or intracrine fashion. Because of the multidirectional nature and heterogeneous character of the melanogenesis modifying agents, its controlling factors are not organized into simple linear sequences, but they interphase instead in a multidimensional network, with extensive functional overlapping with connections arranged both in series and in parallel. The most important positive regulator of melanogenesis is the MC1 receptor with its ligands melanocortins and ACTH, whereas among the negative regulators agouti protein stands out, determining intensity of melanogenesis and also the type of melanin synthesized. Within the context of the skin as a stress organ, melanogenic activity serves as a unique molecular sensor and transducer of noxious signals and as regulator of local homeostasis. In keeping with these multiple roles, melanogenesis is controlled by a highly structured system, active since early embryogenesis and capable of superselective functional regulation that may reach down to the cellular level represented by single melanocytes. Indeed, the significance of melanogenesis extends beyond the mere assignment of a color trait.

Chemical and instrumental approaches to treat hyperpigmentation

Many modalities of treatment for acquired skin hyperpigmentation are available including chemical agents or physical therapies, but none are completely satisfactory. Depigmenting compounds should act selectively on hyperactivated melanocytes, without short- or long-term side-effects, and induce a permanent removal of undesired pigment. Since 1961 hydroquinone, a tyrosinase inhibitor, has been introduced and its therapeutic efficacy demonstrated, and other whitening agents specifically acting on tyrosinase by different mechanisms have been proposed. Compounds with depigmenting activity are now numerous and the classification of molecules, based on their mechanism of action, has become difficult. Systematic studies to assess both the efficacy and the safety of such molecules are necessary. Moreover, the evidence that bleaching compounds are fairly ineffective on dermal accumulation of melanin has prompted investigations on the effectiveness of physical therapies, such as lasers. This review which describes the different approaches to obtain depigmentation, suggests a classification of whitening molecules on the basis of the mechanism by which they interfere with melanogenesis, and confirms the necessity to apply standardized protocols to evaluate depigmenting treatments.

Adapalene in the treatment of African patients

AIM

To assess the efficacy and safety of topical adapalene gel 0.1% as a treatment for acne vulgaris in black South African patients.

BACKGROUND

African and other darker skin types represent a particular clinical challenge for dermatologists treating acne. In many cases, this is due to the higher risk of postinflammatory hyperpigmentation in patients with dark skin. Acne vulgaris is an extremely common dermatological problem among Africans and people of African descent worldwide. Few studies of any of the major acne therapies have been carried out in exclusively black populations, and relatively little is known about the specific responsiveness of black skin to these agents. The ideal acne treatment for black people would specifically target the inflammatory process, which so often results in hyperpigmentation. Topical retinoids do this to some degree, but they can be highly irritating and this in itself can provoke post-treatment hyperpigmentation.

METHODS

An open-label study of adapalene 0.1% gel in 65 black South Africans, aged 12-30, for 12 weeks. Patients all had mild to moderate facial acne as defined by the Leeds scoring system; they were instructed to apply the medication once daily. Lesion counts and severity scores were assessed at 4, 8 and 12 weeks.

RESULTS

A total of 44 subjects completed the trial and all three follow-up visits. Adapalene gel 0.1% showed clear efficacy against both inflammatory and non-inflammatory lesions. The drop in mean total facial-lesion count ranged from 46 to 72% between the first and last visit, and in most cases, there was clear improvement in cosmesis. In two-thirds of cases, patients experienced reductions in both number of hyperpigmented macules and density of hyperpigmentation.

CONCLUSION

Adapalene gel 0.1% is an effective, well-tolerated topical therapy for black patients. It is able to reduce both inflammatory and non-inflammatory lesions, as well as prevent and alleviate acne-associated hyperpigmentation.

Influence of tyrosinase levels on pigment accumulation in the retinal pigment epithelium and on the uncrossed retinal projection

To study the relationship among tyrosinase activity, melanin production, and the routing of retinal ganglion cell (RGC) axons at the optic chiasm, we analysed mice with varying doses of the tyrosinase gene. These include the dark-eyed albino (Tyrc44H), a radiation-induced hypomorphic allele of tyrosinase; and transgenic mice carrying 1 or 2 alleles of a tyrosinase minigene on both wild-type (Tyr+) and albino (Tyrc) backgrounds. Melanization of the retinal pigment epithelium (RPE) occurred gradually even at <2% wild-type tyrosinase activity and was sensitive to tyrosinase activity up to <35% of wild-type levels, beyond which melanin synthesis appeared to be saturated. Overexpression of tyrosinase led to tyrosinase activity above wild type level, but did not increase melanin production. Although a loss of melanin because of a mutation in tyrosinase is associated with a decrease in the number of uncrossed fibers, elevating tyrosinase levels does not appear to cause an increase in the size of the uncrossed retinal projection. Our results suggest that replacing less than 35% of wild-type tyrosinase activity is sufficient to restore normal pigmentation of the RPE, and potentially, to allay visual defects.

All-trans retinoic acid induces differentiation and apoptosis of murine melanocyte precursors with induction of the microphthalmia-associated transcription factor

The effects of all-trans retinoic acid on the differentiation and proliferation of immature melanocyte precursors were studied. NCC-melb4 cells are an immortal cloned cell line established from mouse neural crest cells using a single-cell cloning method. These cells were positive for tyrosinase-related protein 1, tyrosinase-related protein 2 and KIT, but were negative for tyrosinase and had no dihydroxyphenylalanine reaction. They contained only stage I melanosomes without any melanosomes in more advanced stages. After treatment with all-trans retinoic acid, many of the cells became tyrosinase- and dihydroxyphenylalanine-reaction-positive, changed from polygonal to dendritic in shape, and had stage III to IV melanosomes. These findings indicate that treatment with all-trans retinoic acid induced the differentiation of NCC-melb4 cells. Reverse transcription polymerase chain reaction analysis revealed a marked increase in expression of microphthalmia-associated transcription factor mRNA after all-trans retinoic acid treatment, suggesting that microphthalmia-associated transcription factor may be the key molecule in this event. Enhanced expression of protein kinase Calpha following treatment with all-trans retinoic acid was also demonstrated. The proliferation of NCC-melb4 cells was inhibited by all-trans retinoic acid in a dose-dependent manner. Increased apoptosis after all-trans retinoic acid treatment was observed by electron microscopy, the TUNEL method, DNA fragmentation assay, and flow cytometry. All-trans retinoic acid upregulated caspase-3 and downregulated bcl-2. Electron microscopy showed that apoptotic cells contained melanosomes of advanced stages, suggesting that mature melanocytes may tend to undergo apoptosis after all-trans retinoic acid treatment. This study provides important clues towards understanding the roles and working mechanisms of retinoic acids in melanocyte development and melanogenesis.

Downregulation of tyrosinase activity in human melanocyte cell cultures by yohimbine

Treatment of human melanocyte cell cultures with the alpha-2 adrenergic receptor antagonist yohimbine results in a marked down-regulation of tyrosinase activity. A 30% decrease occurs within 12 h of exposure of cells to yohimbine (100 microM), and by 48 h tyrosinase activity in treated melanocytes is less than a fifth that of control cultures. The inhibition is dose dependent and occurs in human melanocytes derived from either black or white skin types, and also in mouse melanoma cells. The yohimbine-induced decrease in tyrosinase activity is reversible, with enzyme levels returning to 90% of control values 48 h after removal of drug. Although tyrosinase activity is markedly suppressed by yohimbine, the compound has no effect on cell proliferation, cellular translation, or DNA synthesis. Treatment of melanocyte cultures with yohimbine blocks the increase in tyrosinase activity by either 3-isobutyl-1-methylxanthine, dibutyryl cAMP, or forskolin. Results of cAMP immunoassays, show that intracellular levels of the cyclic nucleotide are unaffected in cells treated with yohimbine. Tyrosinase inhibition by yohimbine does not involve a decrease in substrate availability since tyrosine uptake studies show that yohimbine has no effect on the amount of tyrosine entering the cell. Incubation of a melanosome-enriched fraction with yohimbine does not cause a lowering of tyrosinase activity, suggesting that an intact cell is required for yohimbine action. In addition, tyrosinase extracts show no reduction in activity when incubated directly with yohimbine, indicating that the drug does not act as a direct inhibitor of the enzyme. Finally, results of western immunoblotting show that yohimbine does not significantly lower the amount of tyrosinase protein in human melanocytes. These findings suggest that yohimbine acts through an as yet unidentified signaling pathway to lower the catalytic activity of pre-existing tyrosinase molecules present in melanocytes.

Topical all-trans retinoic acid augments ultraviolet radiation-induced increases in activated melanocyte numbers in mice

We have previously shown that daily application of 0.05% retinoic acid to the backs of lightly pigmented, hairless HRA:Skh-2 mice increases melanogenesis resulting from exposure to solar-simulated ultraviolet radiation. In this study we show that as early as 1 wk following commencement of treatment, there is a 2- fold increase in the number of epidermal 3,4-dihydroxyphenylalanine positive melanocytes in retinoic acid and ultraviolet radiation treated HRA:Skh-2 mice compared with mice that received ultraviolet radiation only. This increased to a 2.9-fold difference by 6 wk. Retinoic acid also augmented ultraviolet radiation-stimulated melanogenesis, with a 4-fold increase being observed after only 2 wk. These findings were also seen in C57BL mice. Ultraviolet radiation and retinoic acid needed to be applied to the same skin site for the augmentation in melanocyte activation to occur. Ultraviolet B rather than ultraviolet A was mainly responsible for melanogenesis and the retinoic acid primarily increased ultraviolet B-induced melanogenesis. Furthermore, retinoic acid on it's own, in the absence of ultraviolet radiation caused a small but statistically significant increase in 3,4-dihydroxyphenylalanine positive melanocyte numbers and melanogenesis. Thus topical retinoic acid is a potent modulator of melanocyte activation. Alone it is able to increase the number of activated epidermal melanocytes and make melanocytes more sensitive to activation by ultraviolet B.

Eumelanin and phaeomelanin contents of human epidermis and cultured melanocytes

There are two chemically distinct types of melanin: the red-yellow phaeomelanins and the brown-black eumelanins. While both melanins have been detected in human epidermis and cultured melanocytes, it is unknown how the phaeomelanin/eumelanin ratio in human melanocytes maintained in vitro relates to that in the epidermis from which they were isolated. This study uses high-performance liquid chromatography to quantify the eumelanin and phaeomelanin contents of epidermis and/or cultured melanocytes from 12 Europeans with lightly pigmented skin and 9 non-Europeans with more deeply pigmented skin. Epidermis from non-Europeans contained the highest levels of both eumelanin and phaeomelanin and had the lowest phaeomelanin/eumelanin ratios. In contrast, while cultured melanocytes from non-Europeans also had higher levels of eumelanin and phaeomelanin than melanocytes from Europeans, there was no difference in the phaeomelanin/eumelanin ratios in the two groups. However, the phaeomelanin/eumelanin ratios were higher in the cultured melanocytes than in the corresponding epidermis so that while eumelanin was the predominant melanin in these epidermis, phaeomelanin was the major melanin in the cultured melanocytes. These observations may have important implications for the use of cultured human melanocytes in the study of melanogenesis in man.

Human in vivo pharmacology of topical retinoids

All-trans retinoic acid is used topically for treating a variety of dermatologic conditions ranging from acne to photoaged skin. Although the clinical effects of retinoic acid treatment are often considerable, relatively little is known about the basic mechanisms underlying such effects. With the development of an in vivo human assay we have investigated the pleiotypic effects of topical retinoids from the histologic to the molecular. Histologically, retinoic acid induces epidermal proliferation and differentiation coupled with dermal fibroblast production of collagen. Immunologic effects include stimulation of the antigen-presenting capacity of Langerhans cells and induction of keratinocyte ICAM-1 expression. At the biochemical level, retinoic acid regulates transglutaminase and tyrosinase activities and activates protein kinase C. Both polar metabolites and stereoisomers of all-trans retinoic acid are also biologically active. Molecular biologic techniques have revealed that elevation of mRNA for cellular retinoic acid binding protein II is a retinoid-related event and that nuclear receptors such as retinoic acid receptors and retinoid X-receptors may transduce the retinoid response.

Retinoic acid as modulator of UVB-induced melanocyte differentiation. Involvement of the melanogenic enzymes expression

Retinoic acid (RA) is a hormone-like agent involved in the control of cell differentiation. The most characteristic feature of melanocyte differentiation, melanogenesis, is stimulated by UV radiations. Excessive chronic sun exposure results in irregular skin hypermelanosis that can be partially corrected by topical RA. The basic mechanisms underlying this effect of RA are unknown. To determine whether RA can directly modulate excessive melanin synthesis, we analyzed the in vitro effect of cis- and trans-RA on UVB-induced melanogenesis in S91 mouse melanoma cells and in normal human melanocytes (NHM). In both cells types, the two RA isoforms significantly decreased the UVB-stimulated melanogenesis in term of tyrosinase activity and melanin neosynthesis. To correlate changes in melanogenesis with the expression of melanogenic enzymes, we determined the neosynthesis rate of tyrosinase, tyrosinase-related protein-1 (TRP-1/gp 75) and tyrosinase-related protein-2 (TRP-2/DOPAchrome tautomerase). Here we show that UVB-induced melanogenesis in NHM is related to an increased synthesis of tyrosinase and TRP-1 and to a dramatic decrease of TRP-2 expression. RA inhibition of UVB-induced melanogenesis acts at the post-transcriptional level leading to a decreased tyrosinase and TRP-1 synthesis. We also show that in NHM, inhibition of TRP-2 following UVB-treatment is significantly reversed by RA. This demonstrates a negative correlation between melanogenesis and TRP-2 expression.