Structural investigations of human stratum corneum by small-angle X-ray scattering

Advances in microneedles for transdermal diagnostics and sensing applications

Microneedles, the miniaturized needles, which can pierce the skin with minimal invasiveness open up new possibilities for constructing personalized Point-of-Care (POC) diagnostic platforms. Recent advances in microneedle-based POC diagnostic systems, especially their successful implementation with wearable technologies, enable biochemical detection and physiological recordings in a user-friendly manner. This review presents an overview of the current advances in microneedle-based sensor devices, with emphasis on the biological basis of transdermal sensing, fabrication, and application of different types of microneedles, and a summary of microneedle devices based on various sensing strategies. It concludes with the challenges and future prospects of this swiftly growing field. The aim is to present a critical and thorough analysis of the state-of-the-art development of transdermal diagnostics and sensing devices based on microneedles, and to bridge the gap between microneedle technology and pragmatic applications.

The molecular arrangement of ceramides in the unit cell of the long periodicity phase of stratum corneum models shows a high adaptability to different ceramide head group structures

The stratum corneum (SC) lipid matrix, composed primarily of ceramides (CERs), cholesterol and free fatty acids (FFA), has an important role for the skin barrier function. The presence of the long periodicity phase (LPP), a unique lamellar phase, is characteristic for the SC. Insight into the lipid molecular arrangement within the LPP unit cell is imperative for understanding the relationship between the lipid subclasses and the skin barrier function. In this study, the impact of the CER head group structure on the lipid arrangement and barrier functionality was investigated using lipid models forming the LPP. The results demonstrate that the positions of CER N-(tetracosanoyl)-sphingosine (CER NS) and CER N-(tetracosanoyl)-phytosphingosine (CER NP), two essentials CER subclasses, are not influenced by the addition of another CER subclass (N-(tetracosanoyl)-dihydrosphingosine (CER NdS), N-(2R-hydroxy-tetracosanoyl)-sphingosine (CER AS) or D-(2R-hydroxy-tetracosanoyl)-phytosphingosine (CER AP)). However, differences are observed in the lipid organization and the hydrogen bonding network of the three different models. A similar localization of CER NP and CER NS is also observed in a more complex lipid model, with the CER subclass composition mimicking that of human SC. These studies show the adaptability and insensitivity of the LPP unit cell structure to changes in the lipid head group structures of the CER subclasses.

Ionic composition of Shotokuseki extract alters cell differentiation and lipid metabolism in three-dimensional cultured human epidermis

Corneocytes and intercellular lipids form the stratum corneum. The content and composition of intercellular lipids in the stratum corneum significantly affect skin barrier function. The purpose of this study was to demonstrate the effect of Shotokuseki extract (SE) on intercellular lipid production and metabolism in human three-dimensional cultured human epidermis. SE or ion mixtures containing five common ions were applied to three-dimensional cultured human epidermis for 2-8 days for each assay. The mRNA expression levels of epidermal differentiation markers and lipid metabolism genes were quantified by real-time PCR. After extraction of lipids from the epidermis, ceramide, sphingosine, free fatty acids, and cholesterol were quantified by LC-MS/MS, GC-MS, or HPLC. The results showed that the application of SE increased the gene expression levels of epidermal differentiation markers keratin10 and transglutaminase. Elongation of very long-chain fatty acids protein 3, serine palmitoyl transferase, ceramide synthase 3, and acid ceramidase mRNA expression levels increased and fatty acid synthase mRNA expression decreased. The content of each lipid, [EOS] ceramide decreased and total sphingosine content increased on day 4. On day 8 of application, ceramide [NDS], [NP], and [EODS] increased and total free fatty acid content decreased. These results show that SE alters the lipid composition of the epidermis, increasing ceramides and decreasing free fatty acids in the epidermis. The composition of the ions in the SE may be responsible for the changes in lipid composition. These behaviors were different from those observed when the ion mixture was applied.

Graphical abstract

Supplementary Information

The online version contains supplementary material available at 10.1007/s10616-024-00616-3.

Effect of Penetration Enhancer on the Structure of Stratum Corneum: On-Site Study by Confocal Polarized Raman Imaging

Keratin and lipid structures in the stratum corneum (SC) are closely related to the SC barrier function. The application of penetration enhancers (PEs) disrupts the structure of SC, thereby promoting infiltration. To quantify these PE-induced structural changes in SC, we used confocal Raman imaging (CRI) and polarized Raman imaging (PRI) to explore the integrity and continuity of keratin and lipid structures in SC. The results showed that water is the safest PE and that oleic acid (OA), sodium dodecyl sulfate (SDS), and low molecular weight protamine (LMWP) disrupted the ordered structure of keratin, while azone and liposomes had less of an effect on keratin. Azone, OA, and SDS also led to significant changes in lipid structure, while LMWP and liposomes had less of an effect. Establishing this non-invasive and efficient strategy will provide new insights into transdermal drug delivery and skin health management.

Lipid Monolayer on Cell Surface Protein Templates Functional Extracellular Lipid Assembly

When the ancestors of men moved from aquatic habitats to the drylands, their evolutionary strategy to restrict water loss is to seal the skin surface with lipids. It is unknown how these rigid ceramide-dominated lipids with densely packed chains squeeze through narrow extracellular spaces and how they assemble into their complex multilamellar architecture. Here it is shown that the human corneocyte lipid envelope, a monolayer of ultralong covalently bound lipids on the cell surface protein, templates the functional barrier assembly by partly fluidizing and rearranging the free extracellular lipids in its vicinity during the sculpting of a functional skin lipid barrier. The lipid envelope also maintains the fluidity of the extracellular lipids during mechanical stress. This local lipid fluidization does not compromise the permeability barrier. The results provide new testable hypotheses about epidermal homeostasis and the pathophysiology underlying diseases with impaired lipid binding to corneocytes, such as congenital ichthyosis. In a broader sense, this lipoprotein-mediated fluidization of rigid (sphingo)lipid patches may also be relevant to lipid rafts and cellular signaling events and inspire new functional materials.

Skin Barrier Fine Tuning through Low-Temperature Lipid Chain Transition

The lipids in the mammalian stratum corneum (SC) adopt an unusually rigid arrangement to form a vital barrier preventing water loss and harmful environmental impacts. Just above the physiological temperature, a subset of barrier lipids undergoes a phase transition from a very tight orthorhombic to a looser hexagonal arrangement and vice versa. The purpose of this lipid transition in skin physiology is unknown. Permeability experiments on isolated human SC indicated that the transition affects the activation energy for a model compound that prefers lateral movement along lipid layers but not for water or a large polymer that would cross the SC through the pore pathway. The orthorhombic phase content of SC lipids, as determined by infrared spectroscopy, was also modulated by (de)hydration. Spontaneous rearrangement of human SC lipid monolayers into 10 nm higher multilamellar islets at 32-37 °C but not at room temperature was revealed by atomic force microscopy. Our findings add to our knowledge of fundamental skin physiology suggesting a fine temperature- and hydration-controlled switch from fluid lipids (required for lipid barrier assembly) to rigid and tightly packed lipids in the mature SC (necessary for the water and permeability barriers).

Molecular Organization of the Skin Barrier

Cryo-electron microscopy of vitreous sections allows for investigation directly in situ of the molecular architecture of skin. Recently, this technique has contributed to the elucidation of the molecular organization of the skin's permeability barrier and its stepwise formation process. The aim of this review is to provide an overview of the procedure for cryo-electron microscopy of vitreous sections, its analysis using atomic detail molecular dynamics modelling and electron microscopy simulation, and its application in the investigation of the barrier structure and formation process of the skin.

The skin barrier: An extraordinary interface with an exceptional lipid organization

The barrier function of the skin is primarily located in the stratum corneum (SC), the outermost layer of the skin. The SC is composed of dead cells with highly organized lipid lamellae in the intercellular space. As the lipid matrix forms the only continuous pathway, the lipids play an important role in the permeation of compounds through the SC. The main lipid classes are ceramides (CERs), cholesterol (CHOL) and free fatty acids (FFAs). Analysis of the SC lipid matrix is of crucial importance in understanding the skin barrier function, not only in healthy skin, but also in inflammatory skin diseases with an impaired skin barrier. In this review we provide i) a historical overview of the steps undertaken to obtain information on the lipid composition and organization in SC of healthy skin and inflammatory skin diseases, ii) information on the role CERs, CHOL and FFAs play in the lipid phase behavior of very complex lipid model systems and how this knowledge can be used to understand the deviation in lipid phase behavior in inflammatory skin diseases, iii) knowledge on the role of both, CER subclasses and chain length distribution, on lipid organization and lipid membrane permeability in complex and simple model systems with synthetic CERs, CHOL and FFAs, iv) similarity in lipid phase behavior in SC of different species and complex model systems, and vi) future directions in modulating lipid composition that is expected to improve the skin barrier in inflammatory skin diseases.

Skin and Artificial Skin Models in Electrical Sensing Applications

Skin electrical properties play a significant role in recording biopotentials by using electrophysiological sensors. To test and evaluate sensor systems, it is commonly accepted to employ artificial skin models due to complications associated with testing on living tissues. The first goal of this Review is to provide a systematic understanding of the relation between skin structure and skin electrochemical behavior at an appropriate depth for electrophysiological sensing applications through a focus on skin structure, electrochemical properties of skin, and theoretical models (equivalent circuits) representing skin electrochemical behavior. The second goal is to review artificial skin models mimicking the electrochemical properties of skin and to give suggestions for future studies on relevant skin models based on a comparison between the behavior of skin and that of artificial skin models. The Review aims to help the reader to analyze the relation between the structure, elements of the equivalent circuits, and the resulting impedance data for both skin and artificial skin models.

Effect of sphingosine and phytosphingosine ceramide ratio on lipid arrangement and barrier function in skin lipid models

The lipids in the uppermost layer of the skin, the stratum corneum (SC), play an important role in the skin barrier function. The three main subclasses in the SC lipid matrix are ceramides (CER), cholesterol, and free fatty acids. In inflammatory skin diseases, such as atopic dermatitis and psoriasis, the SC lipid composition is modulated compared to the composition in healthy SC. One of the main alterations is the molar ratio between the concentration of CER N-(tetracosanoyl)-sphingosine (CER NS) and CER N-(tetracosanoyl)-phytosphingosine (CER NP), which correlated with an impaired skin barrier function. In the present study, we investigated the impact of varying the CER NS:CER NP ratios on the lipid organization, lipid arrangement, and barrier functionality in SC lipid model systems. The results indicate that a higher CER NS:CER NP ratio as observed in diseased skin did not alter the lipid organization or lipid arrangement in the long periodicity phase encountered in SC. The trans-epidermal water loss, an indication of the barrier functionality, was significantly higher for the CER NS:CER NP 2:1 model (mimicking the ratio in inflammatory skin diseases) compared to the CER NS:CER NP 1:2 ratio (in healthy skin). These findings provide a more detailed insight into the lipid organization in both healthy and diseased skin and suggest that in vivo the molar ratio between CER NS:CER NP contributes to barrier impairment as well but might not be the main factor.

Comparative analysis of intercellular lipid organization and composition between psoriatic and healthy stratum corneum

The lipid composition and organization of the stratum corneum (SC) in patients with psoriasis and healthy subjects were compared using X-ray diffraction, Fourier-transform infrared spectroscopy (FT-IR), and ultraperformance liquid chromatography, combined with time-of-flight mass spectrometry(UPLC-TOFMS). In healthy SC (HSC), SC lipids formed two lamellar phases (long and short periodicity phases). Hexagonal and orthorhombic hydrocarbon-chain packing were observed in the lateral lipid organization at 30°C via X-ray diffraction. In HSC, the lamellar phases and the hydrocarbon-chain packing organizations changed with elevated temperatures and finally disappeared. In these behaviors, the high-temperature hexagonal hydrocarbon-chain packing organization, which appeared above the orthorhombic hydrocarbon-chain packing organization, transformed to the liquid phase at about 90°C in HSC and at about 65°C in psoriatic SC (PSC). Therefore, PSC undergoes a structural transformation at a lower temperature than HSC. Disorder of the hydrocarbon-chain packing of SC lipids was also observed in PSC via FT-IR. In UPLC-TOFMS, free fatty acid (FFA) and ceramide (CER) compositions differed between patients with PSC and HSC. Specifically, the levels of ultra-long chain fatty acids containing CER and phytosphingosine-containing CER were decreased, while those of sphingosine and dihydrosphingosine-containing CER and unsaturated FFA were increased in PSC patients. Furthermore, FFA and CER carbon chain lengths decreased in patients with PSC. These results suggest that the alteration of SC lipid composition and the reduction of carbon chain lengths in PSC lowered the structural transformation temperature, thereby reducing barrier function.

The Intriguing Molecular Dynamics of Cer[EOS] in Rigid Skin Barrier Lipid Layers Requires Improvement of the Model

Omega-O-acyl ceramides such as 32-linoleoyloxydotriacontanoyl sphingosine (Cer[EOS]) are essential components of the lipid skin barrier, which protects our body from excessive water loss and the penetration of unwanted substances. These ceramides drive the lipid assembly to epidermal-specific long periodicity phase (LPP), structurally much different than conventional lipid bilayers. Here, we synthesized Cer[EOS] with selectively deuterated segments of the ultralong N-acyl chain or deuterated or ¹³C-labeled linoleic acid and studied their molecular behavior in a skin lipid model. Solid-state ²H NMR data revealed surprising molecular dynamics for the ultralong N-acyl chain of Cer[EOS] with increased isotropic motion towards the isotropic ester-bound linoleate. The sphingosine moiety of Cer[EOS] is also highly mobile at skin temperature, in stark contrast to the other LPP components, N-lignoceroyl sphingosine acyl, lignoceric acid and cholesterol, which are predominantly rigid. The dynamics of the linoleic chain is quantitatively described by distributions of correlation times and using dynamic detector analysis. These NMR results along with neutron diffraction data suggest an LPP structure with alternating fluid (sphingosine chain-rich), rigid (acyl chain-rich), isotropic (linoleate-rich), rigid (acyl-chain rich), and fluid layers (sphingosine chain-rich). Such an arrangement of the skin barrier lipids with rigid layers separated with two different dynamic "fillings" i) agrees well with ultrastructural data, ii) satisfies the need for simultaneous rigidity (to ensure low permeability) and fluidity (to ensure elasticity, accommodate enzymes or antimicrobial peptides), and iii) offers a straightforward way to remodel the lamellar body lipids into the final lipid barrier.

Protective Barriers Provided by the Epidermis

The skin is the largest organ of the body and consists of an epidermis, dermis and subcutaneous adipose tissue. The skin surface area is often stated to be about 1.8 to 2 m² and represents our interface with the environment; however, when one considers that microorganisms live in the hair follicles and can enter sweat ducts, the area that interacts with this aspect of the environment becomes about 25-30 m². Although all layers of the skin, including the adipose tissue, participate in antimicrobial defense, this review will focus mainly on the role of the antimicrobial factors in the epidermis and at the skin surface. The outermost layer of the epidermis, the stratum corneum, is physically tough and chemically inert which protects against numerous environmental stresses. It provides a permeability barrier which is attributable to lipids in the intercellular spaces between the corneocytes. In addition to the permeability barrier, there is an innate antimicrobial barrier at the skin surface which involves antimicrobial lipids, peptides and proteins. The skin surface has a low surface pH and is poor in certain nutrients, which limits the range of microorganisms that can survive there. Melanin and trans-urocanic acid provide protection from UV radiation, and Langerhans cells in the epidermis are poised to monitor the local environment and to trigger an immune response as needed. Each of these protective barriers will be discussed.

A thermodynamic and kinetic analysis of human epidermal penetration of phenolic compounds: II. Maximum flux and solute diffusion through stratum corneum lipids

Warming the skin is a key means of promoting solute permeation through the skin. Changes in solute permeation associated with variations in skin temperature also assist in understanding the mechanism by which solutes permeate the skin. However, few studies have considered the relative impact of temperature on the main determinants of the maximum flux for a solute across the skin, the solubility of a solute and its diffusivity in the stratum corneum. In this study, we quantified for the first time the thermodynamics associated with the maximum skin fluxes for a series of phenolic compounds of similar size but with varying lipophilicity (defined by the logarithms of their octanol/water partition coefficient, logP). These studies were undertaken using aqueous donor solutions (along with testosterone as a reference solute) across human epidermal membranes in vertical Franz diffusion cells at 4 °C, 24 °C and 37 °C with intermittent receptor sampling and volume replacement over 24 h. Kinetic and thermodynamic analyses included the estimation of the stratum corneum (SC) apparent SC diffusivity from the SC maximum fluxes and SC solubilities and the associated activation energies, enthalpies and entropies for diffusion. The key findings were that the differences in the maximum flux of phenolic compounds varying in lipophilicity mainly arose from differences in SC solubility at the various temperatures and that, at the highest temperature, SC permeability and SC diffusion were affected by SC lipid fluidisation and that variations in SC - water partitioning enthalpies explain some of the previously low activation energies for permeation of the more lipophilic phenols. Higher enthalpies for diffusion were seen for solutes with addition hydrogen bonding capacity and the highest negative entropy was observed with the more compact solutes. Various relationships between the derived thermodynamic parameters were explored and interpreted in a proposed model for solute partitioning into and permeation through the SC intercellular lipid lamellae.

Biomimetic Stratum Corneum Liposome Models: Lamellar Organization and Permeability Studies

The stratum corneum (SC), the outer layer of the skin, plays a crucial role as a barrier protecting the underlying cells from external stress. The SC comprises three key components: ceramide (CER), free fatty acid (FFA), and cholesterol, along with small fractions of cholesterol sulfate and cholesterol ester. In order to gain a deeper understanding about the interdependence of the two major components, CER and FFA, on the organizational, structural, and functional properties of the SC layer, a library of SC lipid liposome (SCLL) models was developed by mixing CER (phytosphingosine or sphingosine), FFA (oleic acid, palmitic acid, or stearic acid), cholesterol, and cholesterol sulfate. Self-assembly of the SC lipids into lamellar phases was first confirmed by small-angle X-ray scattering. Short periodicity and long periodicity phases were identified for SCLLs containing phytosphingosines and sphingosine CERs, respectively. Furthermore, unsaturation in the CER acyl and FFA chains reduced the lipid conformational ordering and packing density of the liposomal bilayer, which were measured by differential scanning calorimetry and Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy. The introduction of unsaturation in the CER and/or FFA chains also impacted the lamellar integrity and permeability. This extensive library of SCLL models exhibiting physiologically relevant lamellar phases with defined structural and functional properties may potentially be used as a model system for screening pharmaceuticals or cosmetic agents.

Polymorphism, Nanostructures, and Barrier Properties of Ceramide-Based Lipid Films

Ceramides belong to sphingolipids, an important group of cellular and extracellular lipids. Their physiological functions range from cell signaling to participation in the formation of barriers against water evaporation. In the skin, they are essential for the permeability barrier, together with free fatty acids and cholesterol. We examined the periodical structure and permeability of lipid films composed of ceramides (Cer; namely, N-lignoceroyl 6-hydroxysphingosine, CerNH24, and N-lignoceroyl sphingosine, CerNS24), lignoceric acid (LIG; 24:0), and cholesterol (Chol). X-ray diffraction experiments showed that the CerNH24-based samples form either a short lamellar phase (SLP, d ∼ 5.4 nm) or a medium lamellar phase (MLP, d = 10.63-10.78 nm) depending on the annealing conditions. The proposed molecular arrangement of the MLP based on extended Cer molecules also agreed with the relative neutron scattering length density profiles obtained from the neutron diffraction data. The presence of MLP increased the lipid film permeability to the lipophilic model permeant (indomethacin) relative to the CerNS24-based control samples and the samples that had the same lipid composition but formed an SLP. Thus, the arrangement of lipids in various nanostructures is responsive to external conditions during sample preparation. This polymorphic behavior directly affects the barrier properties, which could also be (patho)physiologically relevant.

A Mechanistic Study on the Fluidization and Enhancement Effects of Cineole Toward Stratum Corneum Intercellular Lamellar Lipids: A Liquid Crystalline Model Approach

Background

The stratum corneum (SC) serves as the primary barrier for permeation in human skin. Penetration enhancers, such as 1,8-cineole, are utilized to enhance the permeation of drugs. Cineole increases the permeation of chemicals through different mechanisms. However, its mechanism, particularly at high concentrations, has not been well-studied and is the subject of the present investigation.

Objectives

In continuation of our previous studies, the present investigation aims to elucidate the mechanism of action and concentration dependency of the effects of 1,8-cineole on the structure, diffusional properties, and partitioning behavior of the SC at high concentrations. This will be achieved through lamellar liquid crystalline models and ex-vivo skin studies.

Methods

A lamellar liquid crystalline lipid matrix model in the presence (25 - 90%, w/w) and absence of cineole was prepared from SC lipids and characterized by X-ray diffraction, differential scanning calorimetry (DSC), thermogravimetric analysis (TGA), and polarized light microscopy (PLM) studies. Release of the model lipophilic drug (diazepam) from cineole and cineole-treated matrices and the permeation of the drug from cineole and cineole-containing matrices (as a vehicle similar to the stratum corneum lipids) through excised rat skin were studied. Drug assay was performed by HPLC.

Results

The PLM, DSC, and X-ray studies showed that the model matrix had a lamellar gel-liquid crystalline structure, and cineole fluidized the structure concentration-dependently and created other mesomorphic textures, such as myelinic figures. Release experiments showed that diffusion coefficients remained almost constant at high cineole concentrations of 40-90%, suggesting similar fluidization states. Skin permeation studies indicated that the diffusion coefficient (estimated from lag-time) increased concentration-dependently and played a role in permeability coefficient (Kp) increments alongside the increased partitioning of the model drug into the skin. Data suggest that high concentrations of cineole at the skin surface might not provide enough cineole in the skin for full fluidization, despite the similarity of the vehicle to SC lipids and even at high concentrations.

Conclusions

The enhancement effect of cineole is concentration-dependent and might reach maximum fluidization at certain concentrations, but this maximum might not be easily achievable when cineole is used in formulations as pure or in a vehicle.

The effect of PPAR isoform (de)activation on the lipid composition in full-thickness skin models

Human skin equivalents (HSEs) are 3D-cultured human skin models that mimic many aspects of native human skin (NHS). Although HSEs resemble NHS very closely, the barrier located in the stratum corneum (SC) is impaired. This is caused by an altered lipid composition in the SC of HSEs compared with NHS. One of the most pronounced changes in this lipid composition is a high level of monounsaturation. One key enzyme in this change is stearoyl-CoA desaturase-1 (SCD1), which catalyses the monounsaturation of lipids. In order to normalize the lipid composition, we aimed to target a group of nuclear receptors that are important regulators in the lipid synthesis. This group of receptors are known as the peroxisome proliferating activating receptors (PPARs). By (de)activating each isoform (PPAR-α, PPAR-δ and PPAR-γ), the PPAR isoforms may have normalizing effects on the lipid composition. In addition, another PPAR-α agonist Wy14643 was included as this supplement demonstrated normalizing effects in the lipid composition in a more recent study. After PPAR (ant)agonists supplementation, the mRNA of downstream targets, lipid synthesis genes and lipid composition were investigated. The PPAR downstream targets were activated, indicating that the supplements reached the keratinocytes to trigger their effect. However, minimal impact was observed on the lipid composition after PPAR isoform (de) activation. Only the highest concentration Wy14643 resulted in strong, but negative effects on CER composition. Although the novel tested modifications did not result in an improvement, more insight is gained on the nuclear receptors PPARs and their effects on the lipid barrier in full-thickness skin models.

Oral Absorption across Organotypic Culture Models of the Human Buccal Epithelium after E-cigarette Aerosol Exposure

Inhaled aerosols are absorbed across the oral cavity, respiratory tract, and gastrointestinal tract. The absorption across the oral cavity, which is one of the exposure routes, plays an important role in understanding pharmacokinetics and physiological effects. After aerosol exposure from e-cigarettes, tissue viability studies, morphological observation, and chemical analyses at the inner and outer buccal tissues were performed using organotypic 3D in vitro culture models of the buccal epithelium to better understand the deposition and absorption on the inner and outer buccal tissues. The aerosol exposures did not affect the tissue viability and had no change to the tissue morphology and structure. The deposition ratio at the buccal tissue surface is relatively low. This shows that majority of aerosol transfers to the airway tissues. The distribution from the inner tissue to the outer tissue has selectivity among various compounds, depending on the affinity with the liquid crystal structure of phospholipids and glucosylceramide. Although nicotine absorption in the aqueous solution was well known to increase as the unprotonated state of nicotine increased, the nicotine absorption after the aerosol exposure is irrelevant to the protonated-unprotonated state. Furthermore, the results showed that half of nicotine that adhered to the oral cavity transferred to the inner tissue via the oral epithelium and the other half transferred to the gastrointestinal tract accompanying multiple executions of swallowing, while majority of the water-soluble compounds with the hydroxyl group such as propylene glycol and benzoic acid that adhered to the oral cavity were eluted with the saliva and transferred to the gastrointestinal tract by swallowing.

Phytosphingosine ceramide mainly localizes in the central layer of the unique lamellar phase of skin lipid model systems

Understanding the lipid arrangement within the skin's outermost layer, the stratum corneum (SC), is important for advancing knowledge on the skin barrier function. The SC lipid matrix consists of ceramides (CERs), cholesterol, and free fatty acids, which form unique crystalline lamellar phases, referred to as the long periodicity phase (LPP) and short periodicity phases. As the SC lipid composition is complex, lipid model systems that mimic the properties of native SC are used to study the SC lipid organization and molecular arrangement. In previous studies, such lipid models were used to determine the molecular organization in the trilayer structure of the LPP unit cell. The aim of this study was to examine the location of CER N-(tetracosanoyl)-phytosphingosine (CER NP) in the unit cell of this lamellar phase and compare its position with CER N-(tetracosanoyl)-sphingosine (CER NS). We selected CER NP as it is the most prevalent CER subclass in the human SC, and its location in the LPP is not known. Our neutron diffraction results demonstrate that the acyl chain of CER NP was positioned in the central part of the trilayer structure, with a fraction also present in the outer layers, the same location as determined for the acyl chain of CER NS. In addition, our Fourier transformed infrared spectroscopy results are in agreement with this molecular arrangement, suggesting a linear arrangement for the CER NS and CER NP. These findings provide more detailed insight into the lipid organization in the SC lipid matrix.

Using molecular simulation to understand the skin barrier

Skin's effectiveness as a barrier to permeation of water and other chemicals rests almost entirely in the outermost layer of the epidermis, the stratum corneum (SC), which consists of layers of corneocytes surrounded by highly organized lipid lamellae. As the only continuous path through the SC, transdermal permeation necessarily involves diffusion through these lipid layers. The role of the SC as a protective barrier is supported by its exceptional lipid composition consisting of ceramides (CERs), cholesterol (CHOL), and free fatty acids (FFAs) and the complete absence of phospholipids, which are present in most biological membranes. Molecular simulation, which provides molecular level detail of lipid configurations that can be connected with barrier function, has become a popular tool for studying SC lipid systems. We review this ever-increasing body of literature with the goals of (1) enabling the experimental skin community to understand, interpret and use the information generated from the simulations, (2) providing simulation experts with a solid background in the chemistry of SC lipids including the composition, structure and organization, and barrier function, and (3) presenting a state of the art picture of the field of SC lipid simulations, highlighting the difficulties and best practices for studying these systems, to encourage the generation of robust reproducible studies in the future. This review describes molecular simulation methodology and then critically examines results derived from simulations using atomistic and then coarse-grained models.

Multiscale Simulation of Ternary Stratum Corneum Lipid Mixtures: Effects of Cholesterol Composition

Molecular dynamics simulations of mixtures of the ceramide nonhydroxy-sphingosine (NS), cholesterol, and a free fatty acid are performed to gain molecular-level understanding of the structure of the lipids found in the stratum corneum layer of skin. A new coarse-grained force field for cholesterol was developed using the multistate iterative Boltzmann inversion (MS-IBI) method. The coarse-grained cholesterol force field is compatible with previously developed coarse-grained force fields for ceramide NS, free fatty acids, and water and validated against atomistic simulations of these lipids using the CHARMM force field. Self-assembly simulations of multilayer structures using these coarse-grained force fields are performed, revealing that a large fraction of the ceramides adopt extended conformations, which cannot occur in the single bilayer in water structures typically studied using molecular simulation. Cholesterol fluidizes the membrane by promoting packing defects, and an increase in cholesterol content is found to reduce the bilayer thickness due to an increase in interdigitation of the C₂₄ lipid tails, consistent with experimental observations. Using a reverse-mapping procedure, a self-assembled coarse-grained multilayer system is used to construct an equivalent structure with atomistic resolution. Simulations of this atomistic structure are found to closely agree with experimentally derived neutron scattering length density profiles. Significant interlayer hydrogen bonding is observed in the inner layers of the atomistic multilayer structure that are not found in the outer layers in contact with water or in equivalent bilayer structures. This work highlights the importance of simulating multilayer structures, as compared to the more commonly studied bilayer systems, to enable more appropriate comparisons with multilayer experimental membranes. These results also provide validation of the efficacy of the MS-IBI derived coarse-grained force fields and the framework for multiscale simulation.

Occupational exposure assessment with solid substances: choosing a vehicle for in vitro percutaneous absorption experiments

Percutaneous occupational exposure to industrial toxicants can be assessed in vitro on excised human or animal skins. Numerous factors can significantly influence skin permeation of chemicals and the flux determination. Among them, the vehicle used to solubilize the solid substances is a tricky key step. A "realistic surrogate" that closely matches the exposure scenario is recommended in first intention. When direct transposition of occupational exposure conditions to in vitro experiments is impossible, it is recommended that the vehicle used does not affect the skin barrier (in particular in terms of structural integrity, composition, or enzymatic activity). Indeed, any such effect could alter the percutaneous absorption of substances in a number of ways, as we will see. Potential effects are described for five monophasic vehicles, including the three most frequently used: water, ethanol, acetone; and two that are more rarely used, but are realistic: artificial sebum and artificial sweat. Finally, we discuss a number of criteria to be verified and the associated tests that should be performed when choosing the most appropriate vehicle, keeping in mind that, in the context of occupational exposure, the scientific quality of the percutaneous absorption data provided, and how they are interpreted, may have long-range consequences. From the narrative review presented, we also identify and discuss important factors to consider in future updates of the OECD guidelines for in vitro skin absorption experiments.

Thermal analysis of mammalian stratum corneum using differential scanning calorimetry for advancing skin research and drug delivery

For effective topical and transdermal drug delivery, it is necessary for most actives to penetrate and permeate through the stratum corneum (SC). Extensive investigation of the thermal behaviour of mammalian SC has been performed to understand the barrier function of the skin. However, little attention has been paid to the related experimental variables in thermal analysis of the SC using differential scanning calorimetry that may influence the results obtained from such studies. In this review, we provide a comprehensive overview of the thermal transitions of the SC of both porcine and human skin. More importantly, the selection and impact of the experimental and instrumental parameters used in thermal analysis of the SC are critically evaluated. New opportunities for the use of thermal analysis of mammalian SC in advancing skin research, particularly for elucidation of the actions of excipients employed in topical and transdermal formulations on the skin are also highlighted.

Implications of surfactant hydrophobic chain architecture on the Surfactant-Skin lipid model interaction

Although surfactants have been widely used in skin care and other related applications, our knowledge about how surfactants interact with stratum corneum (SC) lipids remains limited. This work reports how surfactants interact with a lipid SC model by neutron diffraction and molecular dynamics (MD) simulations, focusing on examining the impact of surfactant molecular architecture. The surfactant-SC mixed membrane was constructed by an equimolar mixture of ceramide/cholesterol/fatty acids and surfactant at 1% molar ratio of total lipids. The arrangements of water and surfactant molecules in the membrane were obtained through neutron scattering length density (NSLD) profiles via contrast variation method, meanwhile, MD simulation clearly demonstrated the mechanism of hydration change in the surfactant-model SC mixed membrane. No drastic difference was detected in the repeating distance of the short periodicity phase (SPP) upon adding surfactants, however, it significantly enhanced the membrane hydration and reduced the amount of phase separated crystalline cholesterol, showing a strong dependence on surfactant chain length, branching and double bond. This work clearly demonstrates how surfactant architecture affects its interaction with the SC membrane, providing useful guidance for either choosing an existing surfactant or designing a new one for surfactant-based transdermal application.

Cholesterol Sulfate Fluidizes the Sterol Fraction of the Stratum Corneum Lipid Phase and Increases its Permeability

Desulfation of cholesterol sulfate (CholS) to cholesterol (Chol) is an important event in epidermal homeostasis and necessary for stratum corneum (SC) barrier function. The CholS/Chol ratio decreases during SC maturation but remains high in pathological conditions, such as X-linked ichthyosis, characterized by dry and scaly skin. The aim of this study was to characterize the influence of the CholS/Chol molar ratio on the structure, dynamics, and permeability of SC lipid model mixtures. We synthesized deuterated CholS and investigated lipid models with specifically deuterated components using ²H solid-state NMR spectroscopy at temperatures from 25°C to 80°C. Although the rigid acyl chains in ceramides and fatty acids remained essentially rigid upon variation of the CholS/Chol ratio, both sterols were increasingly fluidized in lipid models containing higher CholS concentrations. We also show the X-ray repeat distance of the lipid lamellar phase (105 Å) and the orthorhombic chain packing of the ceramide’s acyl chains and long free fatty acids did not change upon the variation of the CholS content. However, the Chol phase separation visible in models with high Chol concentration disappeared at the 50:50 CholS/Chol ratio. This increased fluidity resulted in higher permeabilities to model markers of these SC models. These results reveal that a high CholS/Chol ratio fluidizes the sterol fraction and increases the permeability of the SC lipid phase while maintaining the lamellar lipid arrangement with an asymmetric sterol distribution.

Mammalian Epidermis: A Compendium of Lipid Functionality

Mammalian epidermis is a striking example of the role of lipids in tissue biology. In this stratified epithelium, highly specialized structures are formed that leverage the hydrophobic properties of lipids to form an impermeable barrier and protect the humid internal environment of the body from the dry outside. This is achieved through tightly regulated lipid synthesis that generates the molecular species unique to the tissue. Beyond their fundamental structural role, lipids are involved in the active protection of the body from external insults. Lipid species present on the surface of the body possess antimicrobial activity and directly contribute to shaping the commensal microbiota. Lipids belonging to a variety of classes are also involved in the signaling events that modulate the immune responses to environmental stress as well as differentiation of the epidermal keratinocytes themselves. Recently, high-resolution methods are beginning to provide evidence for the involvement of newly identified specific lipid molecules in the regulation of epidermal homeostasis. In this review we give an overview of the wide range of biological functions of mammalian epidermal lipids.

Current views on non-invasive in vivo determination of physiological parameters of the stratum corneum using confocal Raman microspectroscopy

Confocal Raman microspectroscopy is widely used in dermatology and cosmetology for analysis of the concentration of skin components (lipids, natural moisturizing factor molecules, water) and the penetration depth of cosmetic/medical formulations in the human stratum corneum (SC) in vivo. In recent years, it was shown that confocal Raman microspectroscopy can also be used for non-invasive in vivo depth-dependent determination of the physiological parameters of the SC, such as lamellar and lateral organization of intercellular lipids, folding properties of keratin, water mobility and hydrogen bonding states. The results showed that the strongest skin barrier function, which is primarily manifested by the orthorhombic organization of intercellular lipids, is provided at ≈20-40% SC depth, which is related to the maximal bonding state of water with surrounding components in the SC. The secondary and tertiary structures of keratin determine water binding in the SC, which is depth-dependent. This paper shows the technical possibility and advantage of confocal Raman microspectroscopy in non-invasive investigation of the skin and summarizes recent results on in vivo investigation of the human SC.

Evaluation of Constrained and Restrained Molecular Dynamics Simulation Methods for Predicting Skin Lipid Permeability

Recently, molecular dynamics (MD) simulations have been utilized to investigate the barrier properties of human skin stratum corneum (SC) lipid bilayers. Different MD methods and force fields have been utilized, with predicted permeabilities varying by few orders of magnitude. In this work, we compare constrained MD simulations with restrained MD simulations to obtain the potential of the mean force and the diffusion coefficient profile for the case of a water molecule permeating across an SC lipid bilayer. Corresponding permeabilities of the simulated lipid bilayer are calculated via the inhomogeneous solubility diffusion model. Results show that both methods perform similarly, but restrained MD simulations have proven to be the more robust approach for predicting the potential of the mean force profile. Critical to both methods are the sampling of the whole trans-bilayer axis and the following symmetrization process. Re-analysis of the previously reported free energy profiles showed that some of the discrepancies in the reported permeability values is due to misquotation of units, while some are due to the inaccurately obtained potential of the mean force. By using the existing microscopic geometrical models via the intercellular lipid pathway, the permeation through the whole SC is predicted from the MD simulation results, and the predicted barrier properties have been compared to experimental data from the literature with good agreement.

Site-Specific Vesicular Drug Delivery System for Skin Cancer: A Novel Approach for Targeting

Skin cancer, one of the most prevalent cancers worldwide, has demonstrated an alarming increase in prevalence and mortality. Hence, it is a public health issue and a high burden of disease, contributing to the economic burden in its treatment. There are multiple treatment options available for skin cancer, ranging from chemotherapy to surgery. However, these conventional treatment modalities possess several limitations, urging the need for the development of an effective and safe treatment for skin cancer that could provide targeted drug delivery and site-specific tumor penetration and minimize unwanted systemic toxicity. Therefore, it is vital to understand the critical biological barriers involved in skin cancer therapeutics for the optimal development of the formulations. Various nanocarriers for targeted delivery of chemotherapeutic drugs have been developed and extensively studied to overcome the limitations faced by topical conventional dosage forms. A site-specific vesicular drug delivery system appears to be an attractive strategy in topical drug delivery for the treatment of skin malignancies. In this review, vesicular drug delivery systems, including liposomes, niosomes, ethosomes, and transfersomes in developing novel drug delivery for skin cancer therapeutics, are discussed. Firstly, the prevalence statistics, current treatments, and limitations of convention dosage form for skin cancer treatment are discussed. Then, the common type of nanocarriers involved in the research for skin cancer treatment are summarized. Lastly, the utilization of vesicular drug delivery systems in delivering chemotherapeutics is reviewed and discussed, along with their beneficial aspects over other nanocarriers, safety concerns, and clinical aspects against skin cancer treatment.

Evaluation of intercellular lipid lamellae in the stratum corneum by polarized microscopy

BACKGROUND

Intercellular lipids contain a lamellar structure that glows in polarized images. It could be expected that the intercellular lipid content be estimated from the luminance values calculated from polarized images of stratum corneum strips. Therefore, we attempted to develop a method for simple and rapid evaluation of the intercellular lipid content through a procedure. Herein, we demonstrated a relationship between the luminance value and the amount of ceramides, one of the main components of intercellular lipids.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

The stratum corneum was collected from the forearm using slides with a pure rubber-based adhesive, which did not produce unnecessary luminescence under polarizing conditions. Images were analyzed using luminance indices. The positive secondary ion peak images were obtained using the time of flight-secondary ion mass spectrometry; the polarized and brightfield images were obtained using a polarized microscope. The ceramide and protein amount was measured by high-performance liquid chromatography and bicinchoninic acid protein assay after microscope imaging. Images and quantitative values were used to construct evaluation models based on a convolutional neural network (CNN).

RESULTS

There was a correlation between the highlighted areas of the polarized image to overlap with the area where ceramide-derived peak was detected. Evaluation of the CNN-based model of the polarized images predicted the amount of ceramides per unit of stratum corneum.

CONCLUSION

The method proposed in the study enabled a large number of specimens to provide a simple, rapid, and efficient evaluation of the intercellular lipid content.

A molecular mechanism investigation of the transdermal/topical absorption classification system on the basis of drug skin permeation and skin retention

A transdermal/topical absorption classification system for the characterization of the systemic or local delivery of drugs is the theoretical basis for the design and evaluation of transdermal/topical formulations. A classification system was established on the basis of the in vitro and in vivo skin permeation/retention behaviors of 12 model drugs. Drug skin penetration/retention exhibited a significant correlation with physicochemical parameters (log K_O/W, molecular weight, polar surface area, and polarizability). Four representative model drugs were selected to clarify the molecular mechanisms of drug skin permeation/retention behaviors. The excellent lipid-disrupting effect and enhanced partitioning exhibited by propranolol (high permeation-high retention) and zolmitriptan (high permeation-low retention) via the formation of moderate H-bonds with skin lipids were proven by ATR-FTIR (Δν_asCH2 > 2 cm^-1), Raman spectra (ΔLPP, SPP > 0.2 nm), and X-ray scattering (lipid crystallization) and were supported by ¹³C NMR results. The low lipid miscibility of zolmitriptan (ΔH_{zolmitriptan-lipid} = 126.92 J/g) caused the low skin retention of this drug. High polarizabiltiy (α = 38.5 × 10^-24 cm³) and low H-bond forming capability (E_H-bond = 0 kcal/mol) restricted terbinafine (low permeation-high retention) in terms of partitioning (k_D-SC = 0.09). Diclofenac (low permeation-low retention) stabilized skin lipids through the formation of strong H-bonds and exhibited excessive drug-lipid miscibility (ΔH_{diclofenac-skin} = -128.73 J/g), thus restricting its skin absorption. This classification system reflects the most essential drug skin absorption characteristics and provides a theoretical basis for the design of transdermal/topical formulations.

Effects of golden tomato extract on skin appearance-outlook into gene expression in cultured dermal fibroblasts and on trans-epidermal water loss and skin barrier in human subjects

Scope

Two experiments were performed to test the effects of rich tomato extract (Golden Tomato Extract, GTE) on human skin. In one experiment, the effects of this extract on gene expression in cultured human dermal fibroblasts were examined. In a second experiment, human subjects consumed the extract and trans‐epidermal water loss (TEWL), and aspects of skin appearance were monitored.

Methods and results

Primary human dermal fibroblasts in culture were treated with the extract. After six hours, RNA was extracted, and gene expression was examined using Affymetrix Human Clariom D array processing. For the clinical study, 65 human subjects consumed a capsule once a day for 16 weeks, and various skin parameters were assessed at predetermined time intervals. Among the genes upregulated by GTE are genes that augment innate immunity, enhance DNA repair, and the ability to detoxify xenobiotics. GTE significantly reduced TEWL in subjects who had high TEWL at baseline, but it had no effect on TEWL in subjects who had lower TEWL at baseline.

Conclusions

Golden tomato extract may provide benefits to the skin by enhancing innate immunity and other defense mechanisms in the dermis and by providing antioxidants to the skin surface to optimize TEWL and the appearance of the skin.

The Skin's Barrier: A Cryo-EM Based Overview of its Architecture and Stepwise Formation

A major role of the skin is to serve as a barrier toward the environment. The skin's permeability barrier consists of a lipid structure positioned in the stratum corneum. Recent progress in high-resolution cryo-electron microscopy (cryo-EM) has allowed for elucidation of the architecture of the skin's barrier and its stepwise formation process representing the final stage of epidermal differentiation. In this review, we present an overview of the skin's barrier structure and its formation process, as evidenced by cryo-EM.

Amino Acids and Their N-Acetylated Derivatives Maintain the Skin's Barrier Function

The hydrocarbon-chain packing structure of intercellular lipids in the stratum corneum (SC) is critical to the skin's barrier function. We previously found that formation of V-shaped ceramide reduces the barrier function of skin. There are few agents, apart from ceramides and fatty acids that can improve the orthorhombic packing (Orth) ratio of the intercellular lipid packing structure. In this study, we investigated agents that directly increase the Orth ratio. We selected an intercellular lipid model consisting of ceramide, cholesterol, and palmitic acid and performed differential scanning calorimetry. We focused on natural moisturizing factor components in the SC, and therefore investigated amino acids and their derivatives. The results of our intercellular lipid model-based study indicate that N-acetyl-L-hydroxyproline (AHYP), remarkably, maintains the lamellar structure. We verified the effect of AHYP on the lamellar structure and hydrocarbon chain packing structure of intercellular lipids using time-resolved X-ray diffraction measurements of human SC. We also determined the direct physicochemical effects of AHYP on the Orth ratio of the hydrocarbon-chain packing structure. Hence, the results of our human SC study suggest that AHYP preserves skin barrier function by maintaining the hydrocarbon-chain packing structure of intercellular lipids via electrostatic repulsion. These findings will facilitate the development of skincare formulation that can maintain the skin's barrier function.

Stratum Corneum Function: A Structural Study with Dynamic Synchrotron X-ray Diffraction Experiments

Studies on the effectiveness of substances such as drugs and cosmetics that act on the skin require structural evidence at the molecular level in the stratum corneum to clarify their interaction with intercellular lipid and soft keratin. For this purpose, when applying the substances to the stratum corneum X-ray diffraction experiment is one of the powerful tools. To detect minute structural changes in a stratum corneum sample, using a "solution cell", dynamic synchrotron X-ray diffraction measurements were performed when applying aqueous solution of the substances to the stratum corneum: (1) It was found that a surfactant, sodium dodecyl sulfate, significantly disrupted the long-period lamellar structure. (2) To study the effects of water, structural modifications of the short-period lamellar structure and the soft keratin in corneocytes were measured as a function of time. At the initial water content of 15 wt%, the spacings of the short-period lamellar structure and the soft keratin increased toward those at the water content of 25 wt%, that is a key water content in the stratum corneum. (3) Nanoparticles composed of assembly of amphiphilic molecules are one of the leading pharmaceutical formulations. When the nanoparticles were applied, a new assembly of amphiphilic molecules originated from the nanoparticle appeared. This phenomenon suggests that the formation of the new assembly at the surface of skin is concerned with the release of the drug from the nanoparticles. (4) When ethanol was applied to the stratum corneum, only the liquid state in the intercellular lipid matrix was dissolved. After the removal of ethanol from this stratum corneum, the ordered hydrocarbon-chain packing structures appeared. From this fact we would propose that the liquid state region is the main pathway for hydrophobic drugs with a small molecular weight in connection with the so-called 500 Da rule. Here, not only the technique but also the background to these studies and the characteristic results obtained from these studies are explained.

Effects of ozone on stratum corneum lipid integrity and assembly

The stratum corneum (SC) acts as the main barrier of the skin against exogenous substances (e.g. air pollutants) and against the loss of endogenous substances such as water. The SC consists of keratin-rich dead cells surrounded by crystalline lamellar lipid regions. The main lipid classes are ceramides (CERs), free fatty acids (FFAs), and cholesterol (CHOL). Tropospheric ozone (O₃) is a potent oxidant compound that reacts instantly with biological molecules such as lipids and proteins. Although it has been reported that O₃ induces biological responses at the cellular level, to the best of our knowledge, there is no information related to the damages O₃ can cause at the level of the SC extracellular lipid matrix. The aim of our work was to investigate which SC lipid subclasses are prone to oxidation when exposed to O₃ and how the changes in chemical structures affect the lipid organization in a stratum corneum substitute (SCS) membrane. Ultimately the barrier properties of the SCS were examined. Our studies reveal that O₃ induces chemical modifications of the unsaturated bonds in CERs and CHOL. The appearance of carbonyl groups at the headgroup level and the removal of the linoleate moiety of omega acylceramides (CER EOS) impact the lamellar organization of the lipid assembly and to a lesser extent the lateral packing of the lipids. Unexpectedly, the modifications improved the barrier function of the SCS.

Human skin equivalents: Impaired barrier function in relation to the lipid and protein properties of the stratum corneum

To advance drug development representative reliable skin models are indispensable. Animal skin as test model for human skin delivery is restricted as their properties greatly differ from human skin. In vitro 3D-human skin equivalents (HSEs) are valuable tools as they recapitulate important aspects of the human skin. However, HSEs still lack the full barrier functionality as observed in native human skin, resulting in suboptimal screening outcome. In this review we provide an overview of established in-house and commercially available HSEs and discuss in more detail to what extent their skin barrier biology is mimicked in vitro focusing on the lipid properties and cornified envelope. Further, we will illustrate how underlying factors, such as culture medium improvements and environmental factors affect the barrier lipids. Lastly, potential improvements in skin barrier function will be proposed aiming at a new generation of HSEs that may replace animal skin delivery studies fully.

Effects of (R)- and (S)-α-Hydroxylation of Acyl Chains in Sphingosine, Dihydrosphingosine, and Phytosphingosine Ceramides on Phase Behavior and Permeability of Skin Lipid Models

Ceramides (Cers) with α-hydroxylated acyl chains comprise about a third of all extractable skin Cers and are required for permeability barrier homeostasis. We have probed here the effects of Cer hydroxylation on their behavior in lipid models comprising the major SC lipids, Cer/free fatty acids (C ₁₆-C ₂₄)/cholesterol, and a minor component, cholesteryl sulfate. Namely, Cers with (R)-α-hydroxy lignoceroyl chains attached to sphingosine (Cer AS), dihydrosphingosine (Cer AdS), and phytosphingosine (Cer AP) were compared to their unnatural (S)-diastereomers and to Cers with non-hydroxylated lignoceroyl chains attached to sphingosine (Cer NS), dihydrosphingosine (Cer NdS), and phytosphingosine (Cer NP). By comparing several biophysical parameters (lamellar organization by X-ray diffraction, chain order, lateral packing, phase transitions, and lipid mixing by infrared spectroscopy using deuterated lipids) and the permeabilities of these models (water loss and two permeability markers), we conclude that there is no general or common consequence of Cer α-hydroxylation. Instead, we found a rich mix of effects, highly dependent on the sphingoid base chain, configuration at the α-carbon, and permeability marker used. We found that the model membranes with unnatural Cer (S)-AS have fewer orthorhombically packed lipid chains than those based on the (R)-diastereomer. In addition, physiological (R)-configuration decreases the permeability of membranes, with Cer (R)-AdS to theophylline, and increases the lipid chain order in model systems with natural Cer (R)-AP. Thus, each Cer subclass makes a distinct contribution to the structural organization and function of the skin lipid barrier.

A tribute to the scientific career of Neville Greaves: the Daresbury years

We present a personal account of both the developments in technique and instrumentation led by Neville Greaves and the scientific applications which they enabled. We focus on the pioneering period at the Synchrotron Radiation Source, Daresbury in the 1980s and 90s. We discuss and illustrate the lasting impact of these key developments on chemistry, materials and catalytic science.

Multitargeted Approach for the Optimization of Morphogenesis and Barrier Formation in Human Skin Equivalents

In vitro skin tissue engineering is challenging due to the manifold differences between the in vivo and in vitro conditions. Yet, three-dimensional (3D) human skin equivalents (HSEs) are able to mimic native human skin in many fundamental aspects. However, the epidermal lipid barrier formation, which is essential for the functionality of the skin barrier, remains compromised. Recently, HSEs with an improved lipid barrier formation were generated by (i) incorporating chitosan in the dermal collagen matrix, (ii) reducing the external oxygen level to 3%, and (iii) inhibiting the liver X receptor (LXR). In this study, we aimed to determine the synergic effects in full-thickness models (FTMs) with combinations of these factors as single-, double-, and triple-targeted optimization approaches. The collagen–chitosan FTM supplemented with the LXR inhibitor showed improved epidermal morphogenesis, an enhanced lipid composition, and a better lipid organization. Importantly, barrier functionality was improved in the corresponding approach. In conclusion, our leading optimization approach substantially improved the epidermal morphogenesis, barrier formation, and functionality in the FTM, which therefore better resembled native human skin.

Roles of Lipids in the Permeability Barriers of Skin and Oral Mucosa

PubMed searches reveal much literature regarding lipids in barrier function of skin and less literature on lipids in barrier function of the oral mucosa. In terrestrial mammals, birds, and reptiles, the skin’s permeability barrier is provided by ceramides, fatty acids, and cholesterol in the outermost layers of the epidermis, the stratum corneum. This layer consists of about 10–20 layers of cornified cells embedded in a lipid matrix. It effectively prevents loss of water and electrolytes from the underlying tissue, and it limits the penetration of potentially harmful substances from the environment. In the oral cavity, the regions of the gingiva and hard palate are covered by keratinized epithelia that much resemble the epidermis. The oral stratum corneum contains a lipid mixture similar to that in the epidermal stratum corneum but in lower amounts and is accordingly more permeable. The superficial regions of the nonkeratinized oral epithelia also provide a permeability barrier. These epithelial regions do contain ceramides, cholesterol, and free fatty acids, which may underlie barrier function. The oral epithelial permeability barriers primarily protect the underlying tissue by preventing the penetration of potentially toxic substances, including microbial products. Transdermal drug delivery, buccal absorption, and lipid-related disease are discussed.