Review of sunscreen and the emergence of non-conventional absorbers and their applications in ultraviolet protection

Advancements in sunscreen formulations: integrating polyphenolic nanocarriers and nanotechnology for enhanced UV protection

Sunscreens are essential in protecting the skin from harmful effects of ultraviolet radiation (UVR). These formulations, designed to absorb, block, or scatter UVR, offer vital protection against skin aging, sunburns, and the development of skin cancers like melanomas. However, some sunscreens, especially those containing organic/chemical compounds, can cause allergic reactions. To address this, researchers are extensively investigating formulations that incorporate plant extracts rich in polyphenols, such as flavonoids and carotenoids, which can be considered safer alternatives. Products derived from plants are commonly used in cosmetics to counteract skin aging due to their antioxidant activity that combat harmful free radicals. This review focuses on evaluating the advancements in chemical and natural sunscreens, exploring the integration of polyphenolic nanocarriers within sunscreen formulas, their interaction with UVR, and utilizing nanotechnology to enhance their effectiveness. An attempt has been made to highlight the concerns related to toxicity associated with their use and notable advancements in the regulatory aspects governing their utilization.

Self-indicating polymers: a pathway to intelligent materials

Self-indicating polymers have emerged as a promising class of smart materials that possess the unique ability to undergo detectable variations in their physical or chemical properties in response to various stimuli. This article presents an overview of the most important mechanisms through which these materials exhibit self-indication, including aggregation, phase transition, covalent and non-covalent bond cleavage, isomerization, charge transfer, and energy transfer. Aggregation is a prevalent mechanism observed in self-indicating polymers, where changes in the degree of molecular organization result in variations in optical or electrical properties. Phase transition-induced self-indication relies on the transformation between different phases, such as liquid-to-solid or crystalline-to-amorphous transitions, leading to observable changes in color or conductivity. Covalent bond cleavage-based self-indicating polymers undergo controlled degradation or fragmentation upon exposure to specific triggers, resulting in noticeable variations in their structural or mechanical properties. Isomerization is another crucial mechanism exploited in self-indicating polymers, where the reversible transformation between the different isomeric forms induces detectable changes in fluorescence or absorption spectra. Charge transfer-based self-indicating polymers rely on the modulation of electron or hole transfer within the polymer backbone, manifesting as changes in electrical conductivity or redox properties. Energy transfer is an essential mechanism utilized by certain self-indicating polymers, where energy transfer between chromophores or fluorophores leads to variations in the emission characteristics. Furthermore, this review article highlights the diverse range of applications for self-indicating polymers. These materials find particular use in sensing and monitoring applications, where their responsive nature enables them to act as sensors for specific analytes, environmental parameters, or mechanical stress. Self-indicating polymers have also been used in the development of smart materials, including stimuli-responsive coatings, drug delivery systems, food sensors, wearable devices, and molecular switches. The unique combination of tunable properties and responsiveness makes self-indicating polymers highly promising for future advancements in the fields of biotechnology, materials science, and electronics.

Bioinspired multiscale cellulose/lignin-silver composite films with robust mechanical, antioxidant and antibacterial properties for ultraviolet shielding

Constructing a high-performance ultraviolet shielding film is an effective way for addressing the growing problem of ultraviolet radiation. However, it is still a great challenge to achieve a combination of multifunctional, excellent mechanical properties and low cost. Here, inspired by the multiscale structure of biomaterials and features of lignin, a multifunctional composite film (CNF/CMF/Lig-Ag) is constructed via a facile vacuum-filtration method by introducing micron-sized cellulose fibers (CMF) and lignin-silver nanoparticles (Lig-Ag NPs) into the cellulose nanofibers (CNF) film network. In this composite film, the microfibers interweave with nanofibers to form a multiscale three-dimensional network, which ensures satisfactory mechanical properties of the composite film. Meanwhile, the Lig-Ag NPs are employed as a multifunctional filler to enhance the composite film's antioxidant, antibacterial and ultraviolet shielding abilities. As a result, the prepared CNF/CMF/Lig-Ag composite film demonstrates excellent mechanical properties (with tensile strength of 133.8 MPa and fracture strain of 7.4 %), good biocompatibility, high thermal stability, potent antioxidant and antibacterial properties. More importantly, such composite film achieves a high ultraviolet shielding rate of 98.2 % for ultraviolet radiation A (UVA) and 99.4 % for ultraviolet radiation B (UVB), respectively. Therefore, the prepared CNF/CMF/Lig-Ag composite film shows great potential in application of ultraviolet protection.

Asphaltenes from Heavy Crude Oil as Ultraviolet Stabilizers against Polypropylene Aging

The destruction of polymers under the influence of ultraviolet (UV) radiation is the cause of their aging and deterioration of strength properties. Asphaltenes are low-value waste products after the refining and deasphalting of heavy crude oil, which absorb UV radiation well. Asphaltenes require rational utilization, which suggests their use as UV stabilizing agents for polymers. In this work, asphaltenes were used to prevent UV aging of polypropylene (PP) by adding them in a mass fraction from 5% to 30% within an asphaltene/PP composite material. Rheometry, calorimetry, X-ray diffraction analysis, and tensile strength of PP films containing asphaltenes were performed before and after their intense UV irradiation for accelerated aging. Asphaltenes slightly reduce the viscosity, crystallinity, and mechanical strength of the initial PP due to their plasticizing effect. However, this deterioration in properties is more than compensated when studying UV-aged samples. Intense UV aging causes multiple catastrophic drops in the viscosity and strength of pure PP with the preservation of crystallinity due to the break of polymer chains and a decrease in molecular weight by approximately eight times. Asphaltenes suppress the destruction of PP, which is expressed in a significantly smaller decline in its viscosity and strength due to UV aging. The most optimal content of asphaltenes is 20%, which suppresses UV destruction by six times and best preserves the strength properties of PP.

Effect of Na and Al doping on ZnO nanoparticles for potential application in sunscreens

This study investigated the environment-friendly production and characterization of zinc oxide nanoparticles (ZnO NPs) doped with sodium (Na) and aluminum (Al) metals to decrease the photocatalytic activity of ZnO for use in sunscreen. The metal-doped zinc oxide (ZnO) materials were prepared by the microwave method using extracts of Averrhoa carambola, also known as star fruit, as a reducing agent. The effects of metal-ion doping on the crystal structure, morphology, and optical characteristics of ZnO were analyzed by X-ray diffraction (XRD), scanning electron microscopy (SEM), energy dispersive x-ray spectroscopy (EDX), transmission electron microscopy (TEM), and ultraviolet-visible (UV-Vis) spectroscopy. The sun protection factor (SPF) of the sunscreen formulations containing undoped ZnO, Na-doped ZnO (Na/ZnO), and Al-doped ZnO (Al/ZnO) NPs were found to be 10.10, 25.10, and 43.08, respectively. Therefore, Na/ZnO and Al/ZnO showed increased SPF. Additionally, the prepared nanomaterials and sunscreens were effective against Gram-positive and Gram-negative bacteria and showed antioxidant activities. The methylene blue (MB) degradation was used to evaluate the photocatalytic activities of the undoped ZnO, Na/ZnO, and Al/ZnO NPs, which were found to be 66%, 46%, and 38%, respectively. Therefore, due to the structural defects of ZnO NPs, their photocatalytic activity was decreased with Na- and Al- doping. Additionally, Al/ZnO is an ideal candidate as an ingredient in sunscreens.

Thermoelectric Power-Factor of Ag-Doped TiO2 Thin Film

The thermoelectric power-factor of two types of rutile-phased nanostructured-TiO₂ thin films doped with Ag was investigated at room temperature, by measuring their Seebeck coefficient and electrical conductivity. The thin films, consisting of a nanorod structure (single layer) and nanorod and nanoflower structure (bilayer) of TiO_2, with the addition of different wt.% of AgNO₃ were synthesized on an F:SnO₂-coated glass substrate. The evaluated thermoelectric power-factor was observed to increase with an increasing wt.% of AgNO₃ for both structures, with the bilayer structure increasing three times more than the undoped bilayer-structure, with a value of 148 μWm-¹K^-2 at 0.15 wt.%. This enhancement was due to the increase in electrical conductivity, which compensated for the small changes in the Seebeck coefficient, which were likely due to the increase in carrier concentration. Consequently, an enhancement in the thermoelectric conversion-efficiency of TiO₂ thin film may be observed by Ag doping, without influencing the layer structure and material phase.

Comparative transcriptome analysis reveals immunotoxicology induced by three organic UV filters in Manila clam (Ruditapes philippinarum)

Benzophenone-3 (BP-3), 4-methyl-benzylidene camphor (4-MBC) and 2-ethyl-hexyl-4-trimethoxycinnamate (EHMC) are commonly used organic ultraviolet (UV) filters and are frequently detected in water environments. In the present study, we studied the potential adverse impacts of UV filter exposures in Ruditapes philippinarum by investigating transcriptomic profiles and non-specific immune enzyme activities. Transcriptome analysis showed that more genes were differentially regulated in EHMC-treated group, and down-regulated genes (2009) were significantly more than up-regulated ones (410) at day 7. Function annotation revealed that pathways "immune system", "cell growth and death" and "infectious diseases" were significantly enriched. Generally, combined qPCR and biochemical analyses demonstrated that short-term exposure to low dose of UV filters could activate immune responses, whereas the immune system would be restrained after prolonged exposure. Taken together, the present study firstly demonstrated the immunotoxicology induced by BP-3, 4-MBC and EHMC on R. philippinarum, indicating their potential threats to the survival of marine bivalves.

Efficacy of Green Cerium Oxide Nanoparticles for Potential Therapeutic Applications: Circumstantial Insight on Mechanistic Aspects

Green synthesized cerium oxide nanoparticles (GS-CeO₂ NPs) have a unique size, shape, and biofunctional properties and are decorated with potential biocompatible agents to perform various therapeutic actions, such as antimicrobial, anticancer, antidiabetic, and antioxidant effects and drug delivery, by acquiring various mechanistic approaches at the molecular level. In this review article, we provide a detailed overview of some of these critical mechanisms, including DNA fragmentation, disruption of the electron transport chain, degradation of chromosomal assemblage, mitochondrial damage, inhibition of ATP synthase activity, inhibition of enzyme catalytic sites, disorganization, disruption, and lipid peroxidation of the cell membrane, and inhibition of various cellular pathways. This review article also provides up-to-date information about the future applications of GS-CeONPs to make breakthroughs in medical sectors for the advancement and precision of medicine and to effectively inform the disease diagnosis and treatment strategies.

Application progress of bioactive compounds in microalgae on pharmaceutical and cosmetics

Microalgae is an autotrophic organism with fast growth, short reproduction cycle, and strong environmental adaptability. In recent years, microalgae and the bioactive ingredients extracted from microalgae are regarded as potential substitutes for raw materials in the pharmaceutical and the cosmetics industry. In this review, the characteristics and efficacy of the high-value components of microalgae are discussed in detail, along with the sources and extraction technologies of algae used to obtain high-value ingredients are reviewed. Moreover, the latest trends in biotherapy based on high-value algae extracts as materials are discussed. The excellent antioxidant properties of microalgae derivatives are regarded as an attractive replacement for safe and environmentally friendly cosmetics formulation and production. Through further studies, the mechanism of microalgae bioactive compounds can be understood better and reasonable clinical trials conducted can safely conclude the compliance of microalgae-derived drugs or cosmetics to be necessary standards to be marketed.

Prospecting In Vitro Antioxidant and Photoprotective Properties of Rosmarinic Acid in a Sunscreen System Developed by QbD Containing Octyl p-Methoxycinnamate and Bemotrizinol

Progressively growing diagnoses of skin cancer trigger public health concerns about excessive sun exposure, awareness of the deleterious effects of ultraviolet (UV) radiation on the skin, and the proper use of sunscreens. Studies show that bioactive molecules, such as rosmarinic acid (RA), may potentiate the photoprotective and antioxidant activity of topical formulations. This research presents the application of the concepts of quality by design (QbD) to evaluate the critical parameters of quality and the development of an optimized cosmetic formulation with RA by means of an understanding of product design space. Samples were developed using design of experiments (DoE) and they were evaluated for in vitro antioxidant activity and photoprotective efficacy, as well as for photostability through artificial irradiation. We were able to achieve the RA performance regarding antioxidant and SPF properties through in vitro experiments. We obtained the equations for predicting the in vitro antioxidant activity and SPF. Considering our sunscreen system, developed with octyl p-methoxycinnamate and bemotrizinol, the presence of RA increased its antioxidant capacity; however, the in vitro SPF was reduced when both UV filters were used. The development of multifunctional sunscreens is of utmost importance; moreover, there is a need for the rational development of formulations that ensure representative statistical tests of the effects and interactions among the components of a formulation on the desired critical quality attributes, including efficacy.

Amorphous and crystalline cerium(IV) phosphates: biocompatible ROS-scavenging sunscreens

This paper reports on a comprehensive study of the UV-shielding properties (namely, the sun protection factor and the factor of protection against UV-A radiation) and cytotoxicity (including photocytotoxicity) of amorphous and crystalline cerium(IV) phosphates. It has been shown that cerium(IV) phosphate NH₄Ce₂(PO₄)₃ is characterised by UV-shielding properties that are comparable to those of nanocrystalline TiO₂ and CeO₂. Moreover, cerium(IV) phosphates did not show toxicity towards cell cultures of NCTC L929 line mouse fibroblasts and human mesenchymal stem cells, in a wide range of concentrations, and even enhanced the proliferative activity of the latter. In a model study of the photoprotective properties of cerium(IV) phosphates on human mesenchymal stem cells, the pronounced protective effect of NH₄Ce₂(PO₄)₃ was observed, which was comparable to the shielding action of nanocrystalline CeO₂. The results have shown that tetravalent cerium phosphates can be considered as promising UV-filters for sunscreen applications.

Photoprotection and Photostability of a New Lignin-Gelatin-Baccharis antioquensis-Based Hybrid Biomaterial

The aim of this study was to develop a new hybrid biomaterial that could photo-stabilize and improve the photoprotective capacity of a Baccharis antioquensis extract. Different combinations of lignin/gelatin/natural extract were applied to prepare hybrid biomaterial nanoparticles (NPs), which were then incorporated into an emulsion. The in vitro photoprotection and photostability were evaluated. The methanolic extract showed high phenolic content (646.4 ± 9.5 mg GAE/g dry extract) and a DPPH radical assay revealed that the antiradical capacity of the extract (0.13 to 0.05 g extract/mmol DPPH) was even better than that of BHT. The particle size of the hybrid biomaterial ranged from 100 to 255 nm; a polydispersity index (PdI) between 0.416 and 0.788 is suitable for topical use in dermocosmetic products. The loading capacity of the extract ranged from 27.0 to 44.5%, and the nanoparticles (NPs) showed electrostatic stability in accordance with the zeta potential value. We found that the formulation based on lignin: extract (1:1 ratio) and gelatin: lignin: extract (0.5:0.5:1 ratio) demonstrated photoprotection qualities with a sun protection factor (SPF) ranging from 9.4 to 22.6. In addition, all the hybrid NP-formulations were time-stable with %SPFeff and %UVAPFeff greater than 80% after exposure to 2 h of radiation. These results suggest that the hybrid biopolymer-natural extract improved the photoprotection and photostability properties, as well as the antiradical capacity, of the B. antioquensis extract, and may be useful for trapping high polyphenol content from natural extracts, with potential application in cosmeceutical formulations.

Preclinical and clinical studies to evaluate cutaneous biodistribution, safety and efficacy of UV filters encapsulated in mesoporous silica SBA-15

Innovative technologies have been designed to improve efficacy and safety of chemical UV filters. Encapsulation can enhance efficacy and reduce transdermal permeation and systemic exposure. The aims of this work were (i) to determine the cutaneous biodistribution of avobenzone (AVO), oxybenzone (OXY), and octyl methoxycinnamate (OMC) incorporated in mesoporous silica SBA-15 and (ii) to perform preclinical (in vitro) and (iii) clinical safety studies to demonstrate their innocuity and to evaluate sun protection factor (SPF) in humans. Skin penetration studies showed that deposition of OXY and AVO in porcine and human skin after application of stick formulation with incorporated filters (stick incorporated filters) was significantly lower than from a marketed (non-encapsulated) stick. Cutaneous deposition and transdermal permeation of OXY in and across human skin were 3.8-and 13.4- fold lower, respectively, after application of stick entrapped filters. Biodistribution results showed that encapsulation in SBA-15 decreased AVO and OXY penetration reaching porcine and human dermis. Greater deposition (and permeation) of OXY in porcine skin than in human skin, pointed to the role of follicular transport. Stick incorporated filters had good biocompatibility in vivo and safety profiles, even under sun-exposed conditions. Entrapment of UV filters improved the SPF by 26% and produced the same SPF profile as a marketed stick. Overall, the results showed that SBA-15 enabled safety and efficacy of UV filters to be increased.

Seaweed-Based Molecules and Their Potential Biological Activities: An Eco-Sustainable Cosmetics

Amongst the countless marine organisms, seaweeds are considered as one of the richest sources of biologically active ingredients having powerful biological activities. Seaweeds or marine macroalgae are macroscopic multicellular eukaryotic photosynthetic organisms and have the potential to produce a large number of valuable compounds, such as proteins, carbohydrates, fatty acids, amino acids, phenolic compounds, pigments, etc. Since it is a prominent source of bioactive constituents, it finds diversified industrial applications viz food and dairy, pharmaceuticals, medicinal, cosmeceutical, nutraceutical, etc. Moreover, seaweed-based cosmetic products are risen up in their demands by the consumers, as they see them as a promising alternative to synthetic cosmetics. Normally it contains purified biologically active compounds or extracts with several compounds. Several seaweed ingredients that are useful in cosmeceuticals are known to be effective alternatives with significant benefits. Many seaweeds' species demonstrated skin beneficial activities, such as antioxidant, anti-melanogenesis, antiaging, photoprotection, anti-wrinkle, moisturizer, antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, anticancer and antioxidant properties, as well as certain antimicrobial activities, such as antibacterial, antifungal and antiviral activities. This review presents applications of bioactive molecules derived from marine algae as a potential substitute for its current applications in the cosmetic industry. The biological activities of carbohydrates, proteins, phenolic compounds and pigments are discussed as safe sources of ingredients for the consumer and cosmetic industry.

Sponges and Their Symbionts as a Source of Valuable Compounds in Cosmeceutical Field

In the last decades, the marine environment was discovered as a huge reservoir of novel bioactive compounds, useful for medicinal treatments improving human health and well-being. Among several marine organisms exhibiting biotechnological potential, sponges were highlighted as one of the most interesting phyla according to a wide literature describing new molecules every year. Not surprisingly, the first marine drugs approved for medical purposes were isolated from a marine sponge and are now used as anti-cancer and anti-viral agents. In most cases, experimental evidence reported that very often associated and/or symbiotic communities produced these bioactive compounds for a mutual benefit. Nowadays, beauty treatments are formulated taking advantage of the beneficial properties exerted by marine novel compounds. In fact, several biological activities suitable for cosmetic treatments were recorded, such as anti-oxidant, anti-aging, skin whitening, and emulsifying activities, among others. Here, we collected and discussed several scientific contributions reporting the cosmeceutical potential of marine sponge symbionts, which were exclusively represented by fungi and bacteria. Bioactive compounds specifically indicated as products of the sponge metabolism were also included. However, the origin of sponge metabolites is dubious, and the role of the associated biota cannot be excluded, considering that the isolation of symbionts represents a hard challenge due to their uncultivable features.

Cerium oxide nanoparticles: green synthesis using Banana peel, cytotoxic effect, UV protection and their photocatalytic activity

Nanomaterials, as an active ingredient, have been widely deployed in various science and technological applications with zinc and titanium oxides nanoparticles being commonly applied in sunscreens. On similar lines, cerium oxide nanoparticles (CeO₂-NPs) were synthesized using Musa sapientum peel extract, to investigate its cytotoxic effects, UV protection and photocatalytic activity. The synthesized nanoparticles were identified through Raman, Powder X-ray Diffraction (PXRD), Fourier-Transform Infrared spectroscopy (FT-IR), Transmission Electron Microscopy (TEM), Field Emission Scanning Electron Microscopy (FESEM) and Energy-Dispersive Spectroscopy (EDX). FESEM results showed that the size of synthesized nanoparticles is in the range 4-13 nm. Their cytotoxic activity revealed a non-toxic behavior in concentrations below 500 μg/mL on lung (A549) cell lines. The Sun protection factor (SPF) was estimated approximately ~ 40 for synthesized CeO₂-NPs. The survey of photocatalytic activity showed that synthesized nanoparticles can remove 81.7% of AO7 in 180 min under visible light.

Sunscreens Containing Cyclodextrin Inclusion Complexes for Enhanced Efficiency: A Strategy for Skin Cancer Prevention

Unprotected exposure of skin to solar ultraviolet radiation (UVR) may damage the DNA of skin cells and can lead to skin cancer. Sunscreens are topical formulations used to protect skin against UVR. The active ingredients of sunscreens are UV filters that absorb, scatter, and/or reflect UVR. Preventing the formation of free radicals and repairing DNA damages, natural antioxidants are also added to sunscreens as a second fold of protection against UVR. Antioxidants can help stabilise these formulations during the manufacturing process and upon application on skin. However, UV filters and antioxidants are both susceptible to degradation upon exposure to sunlight and oxygen. Additionally, due to their poor water solubility, natural antioxidants are challenging to formulate and exhibit limited penetration and bioavailability in the site of action (i.e., deeper skin layers). Cyclodextrins (CDs) are cyclic oligosaccharides that are capable of forming inclusion complexes with poorly soluble drugs, such as antioxidants. In this review, we discuss the use of CDs inclusion complexes to enhance the aqueous solubility of antioxidants and chemical UV filters and provide a protective shield against degradative factors. The role of CDs in providing a controlled drug release profile from sunscreens is also discussed. Finally, incorporating CDs inclusion complexes into sunscreens has the potential to increase their efficiency and hence improve their skin cancer prevention.

Benzophenone-3 degradation via UV/H2O2 and UV/persulfate reactions

The degradation of benzophenone-3 (BP3) in water via the UV/H₂O₂ and UV/persulfate (UV/PS) reactions was investigated. The degradation of BP3 exhibited pseudo-first-order kinetics in both reactions. The degradation efficiency of BP3 was higher in the UV/PS reaction than in the UV/H₂O₂ reaction. In both reactions, the observed rate constants (k_obs) of BP3 degradation were highest at pH 6 and increased linearly with increasing dosage of H₂O₂ and persulfate. The second-order rate constants of BP3 with •OH (k_{•OH_BP3}) and •SO₄^- (k_•SO4-_{_BP3}) were determined to be 1.09 (± 0.05) × 10¹⁰ and 1.67 (± 0.04) × 10⁹ M^-1 s^-1, respectively. The k_obs values of BP3 were affected by water components such as HCO₃^-, NO₃^-, Cl^-, and Br^- ions, as well as humic acid. Based on the identified transformation products (TPs), the degradation pathway of BP3 during both reactions was a hydroxylation reaction. The inhibition of bioluminescence in Vibrio fischeri due to BP3 and its TPs decreased more quickly in the UV/PS reaction than in the UV/H₂O₂ reaction. The results suggest that the UV/PS process is a better alternative to the UV/H₂O₂ process for removing BP3 and its toxicity in water.

Fluorescent polymers via post-polymerization modification of Biginelli-type polymers for cellular protection against UV damage

Biocompatible fluorescent polymers with UV-protective capability have been developed by the combination of the Biginelli reaction and the postpolymerization modification method.

Cyanobacteria and Red Macroalgae as Potential Sources of Antioxidants and UV Radiation-Absorbing Compounds for Cosmeceutical Applications

In recent years, research on natural products has gained considerable attention, particularly in the cosmetic industry, which is looking for new bio-active and biodegradable molecules. In this study, cosmetic properties of cyanobacteria and red macroalgae were analyzed. The extractions were conducted in different solvents (water, ethanol and two combinations of water:ethanol). The main molecules with antioxidant and photoprotective capacity were mycosporine-like amino acids (MAAs), scytonemin and phenolic compounds. The highest contents of scytonemin (only present in cyanobacteria) were observed in Scytonema sp. (BEA 1603B) and Lyngbya sp. (BEA 1328B). The highest concentrations of MAAs were found in the red macroalgae Porphyra umbilicalis, Gelidium corneum and Osmundea pinnatifida and in the cyanobacterium Lyngbya sp. Scytonema sp. was the unique species that presented an MAA with maximum absorption in the UV-B band, being identified as mycosporine-glutaminol for the first time in this species. The highest content of polyphenols was observed in Scytonema sp. and P. umbilicalis. Water was the best extraction solvent for MAAs and phenols, whereas scytonemin was better extracted in a less polar solvent such as ethanol:_dH₂O (4:1). Cyanobacterium extracts presented higher antioxidant activity than those of red macroalgae. Positive correlations of antioxidant activity with different molecules, especially polyphenols, biliproteins and MAAs, were observed. Hydroethanolic extracts of some species incorporated in creams showed an increase in the photoprotection capacity in comparison with the base cream. Extracts of these organisms could be used as natural photoprotectors improving the diversity of sunscreens. The combination of different extracts enriched in scytonemin and MAAs could be useful to design broad-band natural UV-screen cosmeceutical products.

Bemotrizinol-Loaded Carnauba Wax-Based Nanostructured Lipid Carriers for Sunscreen: Optimization, Characterization, and In vitro Evaluation

Nanostructured lipid carriers (NLC) are aqueous dispersions of nanoparticles formed by solid and liquid lipids. In this study, NLC containing an organic UV filter, bemotrizinol, were developed for sunscreen formulation using carnauba wax and caprylic/capric triglycerides through ultrasonication technique. A Box-Behnken design was used to evaluate the influence of three variables on the particle size with the purpose of choosing the best system for further characterization. The particle size decreased as the surfactant concentration increased, reaching an average size of 122.4 ± 0.3 nm at 30 days of storage. Scanning electron microscopy showed intact and spherical particles. Thermal analysis and Fourier-transform infrared spectroscopy suggest that bemotrizinol was incorporated into the NLC. The X-ray diffraction showed a reduction in the crystallinity of the NLC. In vitro analysis indicated an improvement in the photoprotective activity of bemotrizinol when incorporated into NLC. These findings suggest a promising, stable, and biocompatible system.

In vitro and in vivo screening for environmentally friendly benzophenone-type UV filters with beneficial tyrosinase inhibition activity

Benzophenones (BPs) are a group of chemically similar organic compounds commonly used in formulations of sunscreen and other personal care products as UV filters to protect our skin against sunlight overexposure. Studies have shown that the occurrence of certain BPs (e.g., BP-3 and its metabolite BP-1) in multiple environmental matrices may increase the incidence of coral planulae bleaching and estrogenic effects on aquatic life. Currently, most BPs are not yet comprehensively screened in vitro and in vivo for their ecotoxicity under environmentally relevant concentrations. This study systematically assessed the in vitro and in vivo toxicity and activity of the 7 most commonly used BPs (BP-1, BP-2, BP-3, BP-4, BP-6, BP-7 and BP-8) to select BP alternatives with lower ecotoxicity and extra beneficial functions. BP-2 (LC₅₀ = 18.43 µM) was least toxic and BP-3 (LC₅₀ = 4.10 µM) and BP-8 (LC₅₀ =1.62 µM) were less and most toxic, respectively, in terms of 96-hr acute mortality of medaka larvae. BP-2 at environmentally relevant concentrations (5-50 nM) did not significantly alter locomotion and oxidative stress responses of medaka larvae from 24-hr to 7-day exposure, whereas BP-3 and BP-8 at 5 nM induced hypoactivity or changed fish swimming angles. Only BP-2 was able to inhibit in vitro mushroom tyrosinase activity, with EC₅₀ value 19.7 µM. Also, BP-2 could effectively suppress melanin formation and tyrosinase activity in zebrafish embryos. Among the 7 tested BPs, BP-2 was the least toxic and the most environmentally friendly UV filter with extra benefit for tyrosinase inhibition and could be a promising alternative to the use of toxic BPs.

Unravelling the Photoprotective Mechanisms of Nature-Inspired Ultraviolet Filters Using Ultrafast Spectroscopy

There are several drawbacks with the current commercially available ultraviolet (UV) filters used in sunscreen formulations, namely deleterious human and ecotoxic effects. As a result of the drawbacks, a current research interest is in identifying and designing new UV filters. One approach that has been explored in recent years is to use nature as inspiration, which is the focus of this review. Both plants and microorganisms have adapted to synthesize their own photoprotective molecules to guard their DNA from potentially harmful UV radiation. The relaxation mechanism of a molecule after it has been photoexcited can be unravelled by several techniques, the ones of most interest for this review being ultrafast spectroscopy and computational methods. Within the literature, both techniques have been implemented on plant-, and microbial-inspired UV filters to better understand their photoprotective roles in nature. This review aims to explore these findings for both families of nature-inspired UV filters in the hope of guiding the future design of sunscreens.

Marine-Derived Compounds with Potential Use as Cosmeceuticals and Nutricosmetics

The cosmetic industry is among the fastest growing industries in the last decade. As the beauty concepts have been revolutionized, many terms have been coined to accompany the innovation of this industry, since the beauty products are not just confined to those that are applied to protect and enhance the appearance of the human body. Consequently, the terms such as cosmeceuticals and nutricosmetics have emerged to give a notion of the health benefits of the products that create the beauty from inside to outside. In the past years, natural products-based cosmeceuticals have gained a huge amount of attention not only from researchers but also from the public due to the general belief that they are harmless. Notably, in recent years, the demand for cosmeceuticals from the marine resources has been exponentially on the rise due to their unique chemical and biological properties that are not found in terrestrial resources. Therefore, the present review addresses the importance of marine-derived compounds, stressing new chemical entities with cosmeceutical potential from the marine natural resources and their mechanisms of action by which these compounds exert on the body functions as well as their related health benefits. Marine environments are the most important reservoir of biodiversity that provide biologically active substances whose potential is still to be discovered for application as pharmaceuticals, nutraceuticals, and cosmeceuticals. Marine organisms are not only an important renewable source of valuable bulk compounds used in cosmetic industry such as agar and carrageenan, which are used as gelling and thickening agents to increase the viscosity of cosmetic formulations, but also of small molecules such as ectoine (to promote skin hydration), trichodin A (to prevent product alteration caused by microbial contamination), and mytiloxanthin (as a coloring agent). Marine-derived molecules can also function as active ingredients, being the main compounds that determine the function of cosmeceuticals such as anti-tyrosinase (kojic acid), antiacne (sargafuran), whitening (chrysophanol), UV protection (scytonemin, mycosporine-like amino acids (MAAs)), antioxidants, and anti-wrinkle (astaxanthin and PUFAs).

Marine-Derived Polymeric Materials and Biomimetics: An Overview

The review covers recent literature on the ocean as both a source of biotechnological tools and as a source of bio-inspired materials. The emphasis is on marine biomacromolecules namely hyaluronic acid, chitin and chitosan, peptides, collagen, enzymes, polysaccharides from algae, and secondary metabolites like mycosporines. Their specific biological, physicochemical and structural properties together with relevant applications in biocomposite materials have been included. Additionally, it refers to the marine organisms as source of inspiration for the design and development of sustainable and functional (bio)materials. Marine biological functions that mimic reef fish mucus, marine adhesives and structural colouration are explained.

Preparation and Application of Light-Colored Lignin Nanoparticles for Broad-Spectrum Sunscreens

Recently, natural sun blockers have been drawing considerable attention because synthetic UV filters could have adverse effects not only on humans but also on the environment. Even though lignin, the second most abundant renewable resource on earth, is a natural UV-absorbing polymer, its unfavorable dark color hampers its applications in sunscreens. In this work, we obtained light-colored lignin (CEL) from rice husks through cellulolytic enzyme treatment and subsequent solvent extraction under mild conditions and compared CEL to technical lignin from rice husks using the International Commission on Illumination L*a*b* (CIELAB) color space. Spherical nanoparticles of CEL (CEL-NP) were also prepared using a solvent shifting method and evaluated for broad-spectrum sunscreens. A moisturizing cream blended with CEL-NP exhibited higher sun protection factor (SPF) and UVA PF (protection factor) values than that with CEL. In addition, CEL-NP had synergistic effects when blended with an organic UV-filter sunscreen: CEL-NP enhanced the SPF and UVA PF values of the sunscreen greatly. However, there was no synergistic effect between CEL-NP and inorganic sunscreens. We expect nanoparticles of light-colored lignin to find high-value-added applications as a natural UV-blocking additive in sunscreens and cosmetics.

Synthesis of hierarchically mesoporous silica with encapsulated avobenzone as a UV protection filter

In this study, hierarchically mesoporous silica (HMS) with properties such as high specific surface area, high photostability, and no cellular toxicity was synthesized. The synthesized silica can be considered as an excellent carrier candidate material. Through the use of nitrogen adsorption and desorption analysis, the shape of the hysteresis loop implied the presence of mesoporous structures in the HMS powder. In addition, the encapsulation efficiency was more than 90%. These results showed that avobenzone could be encapsulated into the HMS powder because of its high specific surface area and pore volume. Additionally, X-ray diffractometry (XRD), Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy (FTIR), thermal gravimetric analysis (TGA), and UV-visible (Vis) spectrophotometry were used to prove that the hierarchically mesoporous silica was able to effectively encapsulate avobenzone. In addition, the new synthetic sunscreen kept its excellent UVA absorption properties after being encapsulated.

This study provides a preparing method for mesoporous silica to effectively encapsulate with avobenzone.

Poly (ɛ-Caprolactone) Nanoparticles with pH-Responsive Behavior Improved the In Vitro Antitumor Activity of Methotrexate

A promising approach to achieve a more efficient antitumor therapy is the conjugation of the active molecule to a nanostructured delivery system. Therefore, the main objective of this research was to prepare nanoparticles (NPs), with the polymer poly (ε-caprolactone) (PCL), as a carrier for the antitumor drug methotrexate (MTX). A pH-responsive behavior was obtained through conjugation of the amino acid-based amphiphile, 77KL, to the NP matrix. The NPs showed mean hydrodynamic diameter and drug entrapment efficiency of 178.5 nm and 20.52%, respectively. Owing to its pH-sensitivity, the PCL-NPs showed membrane-lytic behavior upon reducing the pH value of surrounding media to 5.4, which is characteristic of the endosomal compartments. The in vitro antitumor assays demonstrated that MTX-loaded PCL-NPs have higher antiproliferative activity than free drug in MCF-7 cells and, to a lesser extent, in HepG2 cells. This same behavior was also achieved at mildly acidic conditions, characteristic of the tumor microenvironment. Altogether, the results evidenced the pH-responsive properties of the designed NPs, as well as the higher in vitro cytotoxicity compared to free MTX, representing thus a promising alternative for the antitumor therapy.

Synthesis of modified carbon dots with performance of ultraviolet absorption used in sunscreen

The research and development of non-toxic, broad-spectrum and environmentally friendly ultraviolet absorbers remains no significant progress in recent years. We found that the ultraviolet absorption spectra can be regulated through modification of functional groups on carbon dots surface, and the modified carbon dots exhibiting good stability and functions of sunscreen (Sun protection actor reaches to 22) and anti-aging properties were experimentally demonstrated. Moreover, we figured out the ultraviolet absorption mechanism of carbon dots for the first time and confirmed the existence of non-fluorescent radiation energy traps. Carbon dots are expected to be widely used and commercialized as ultraviolet absorbers.

Spherical Composite Powder by Coupling Polymethyl Methacrylate and Boron Nitride via Spray Drying for Cosmetic Application

In the present study, spherical composite powder was successfully prepared via spray drying process using polymethyl methacrylate (PMMA) and hexagonal boron nitride (h-BN) powders. The pristine and as-prepared composite powders were examined using scanning electron microscopy, a particle size analyzer, oil absorption, and specific surface area analyses. These powders were then mixed with linseed oil to prepare samples for UV-Visible-Near Infrared spectroscopy investigation to determine their light absorption ability. Blank and powder-added blemish balm creams were examined using a sun protection factor tester and a thermal conductivity tester. In addition, transmittances of these creams were also evaluated. The experimental results show that spray-dried spherical composite powder exhibited good oil absorption ability. The blemish balm cream with 10 wt.% spray-dried composite powder not only exhibited superior sunscreen protection ability, but also good thermal conductivity.

Synthesis of Silicon Quantum Dots with Highly Efficient Full-Band UV Absorption and Their Applications in Antiyellowing and Resistance of Photodegradation

UV absorbers are very effective in the fields of antiyellowing, resistance of photocatalytic degradation, and sunscreen cosmetics. However, commercialized UV absorbers have the drawbacks of toxicity, low absorption efficiency, transparency, etc. Here, we report for the first time silicon quantum dots as full-band UV absorbers. The NH-refunctionalized silicon quantum dots with high-performance UV absorption were successfully synthesized under the synergistic effect of sodium citrate and ethanediamine, and the (NH, OH)-functionalized silicon quantum dots (SiQDs) with full-band UV absorption can be achieved by reregulating -NH₂ and -OH groups on the surface. The as-prepared (NH, OH)-functionalized SiQDs exhibited good stability and underwent treatment of varying pH and temperature. Furthermore, experimental results demonstrated that compared to commercial water-soluble organic UV absorbers, the (NH, OH)-functionalized SiQDs showed better antiyellowing performance for polyurethane and resistance of photocatalytic degradation for rhodamine B, and presented huge application potential in sunscreen cosmetics. Finally, the UV absorption mechanism of SiQDs was explained to be mainly related to Γ → Γ direct band gap transition, which absorb UV light and release it as thermal radiation.

UVA and UVB Photoprotective Capabilities of Topical Formulations Containing Mycosporine-like Amino Acids (MAAs) through Different Biological Effective Protection Factors (BEPFs)

The safety and stability of synthetic UV-filters and the procedures for evaluating the photoprotective capability of commercial sunscreens are under continuous review. The influence of pH and temperature stressors on the stability of certain Mycosporine-like amino acids (MAAs) isolated at high purity levels was examined. MAAs were highly stable at room temperature during 24 h at pH 4.5–8.5. At 50 °C, MAAs showed instability at pH 10.5 while at 85 °C, progressive disappearances were observed for MAAs through the studied pH range. In alkaline conditions, their degradation was much faster. Mycosporine-serinol and porphyra-334 (+shinorine) were the most stable MAAs under the conditions tested. They were included in four cosmetically stable topical sunscreens, of which the Sun Protection Factor (SPF) and other Biological Effective Protection Factors (BEPFs) were calculated. The formulation containing these MAAs showed similar SPF and UVB-BEPFs values as those of the reference sunscreen, composed of synthetic UV absorbing filters in similar percentages, while UVA-BEPFs values were slightly lower. Current in vitro data strongly suggest that MAAs, as natural and safe UV-absorbing and antioxidant compounds, have high potential for protection against the diverse harmful effects of solar UV radiation. In addition, novel complementary in vitro tests for evaluation of commercial sunscreens efficacy are proposed.