The Effect of α-Arbutin on UVB-Induced Damage and Its Underlying Mechanism

Ultraviolet radiation can heighten tyrosinase activity, stimulate melanocyte production, impede the metabolism of numerous melanocytes, and result in the accumulation of plaques on the skin surface. α-Arbutin, a bioactive substance extracted from the arbutin plant, has been widely used for skin whitening. In this study, the whitening effect of α-arbutin by inhibiting tyrosinase activity and alleviating the photoaging effect induced by UVB are investigated. The results indicate that α-arbutin can inhibit skin inflammation, and its effectiveness is positively correlated with concentration. Moreover, α-arbutin can reduce the skin epidermal thickness, decrease the number of inflammatory cells, and down-regulate the expression levels of IL-1β, IL-6 and TNF-α, which are inflammatory factors. It also promotes the expression of COL-1 collagen, thus playing an important role in anti-inflammatory action. Network pharmacology, metabolomics and transcriptomics further confirm that α-arbutin is related to the L-tyrosine metabolic pathway and may interfere with various signaling pathways related to melanin and other photoaging by regulating metabolic changes. Therefore, α-arbutin has a potential inhibitory effect on UVB-induced photoaging and possesses a whitening effect as a cosmetic compound.

Unlocking the potential of cosmetic dermal delivery with ethosomes: A comprehensive review

BACKGROUND

In a world where hair loss, acne, and skin whitening are common concerns, ethosomes emerge as a captivating breakthrough in cosmetic drug delivery.

METHOD

This review provides a comprehensive overview of the ethosomal system and assesses its potential as an effective nanocarrier for delivering active ingredients to the skin. The focus is on exploring their applications in various pathologies, particularly skin disorders such as acne, hair loss, and skin pigmentation.

RESULTS

Ethosomes are a novel type of vesicular nanocarrier composed of high concentrations of ethanol (20-45%) and phospholipids. Their unique structure and composition make them an ideal choice for transporting active ingredients through the skin, offering targeted and effective treatment. The inclusion of ethanol in ethosomes' composition gives them distinctive properties, including flexibility, deformability, and stability, facilitating deep penetration into the skin and enhancing medication deposition. Moreover, ethosomes improved theoverall drug-loading capacity, and specificity of target treatment CONCLUSION: Ethosomes represent a unique and suitable approach for delivering active cosmetic ingredients in the treatment of hair loss, acne, and skin whitening, presenting a versatile alternative to traditional dermal delivery systems. Despite the challenges associated with their complex preparation and sensitivity to temperature and humidity, the remarkable potential benefits of ethosomes cannot be ignored. Further research is crucial to unlock their full potential, understand their limitations, and refine their formulations and administration methods. Ethosomes hold the promise of transforming the way we address these cosmetic concerns, offering an exciting glimpse into the future of advanced skincare solutions.

Skin Anti-Aging Efficacy of Enzyme-Treated Supercritical Caviar Extract: A Randomized, Double-Blind, Placebo-Controlled Clinical Trial

Oxidative stress in the skin, induced by an unhealthy lifestyle and exposure to UVB radiation, leads to skin aging, including reduced elasticity, formation of wrinkles, moisture loss, and inflammation. In a previous study, we revealed the photoaging effects of enzyme-treated caviar extract (CV) by regulating collagen and hyaluronic acid synthase, melanogenesis, anti-oxidant mechanisms, and inflammation in a UVB irradiation-induced mice model. HPLC and MALDI-TOF were performed to determine the effect of enzyme treatment on the free amino acid contents and peptide molecular weight in supercritical caviar extract. As results of the analysis, CV is mainly composed of low-molecular-weight peptides consisting of leucine, tyrosine, and phenylalanine. Based on our in vitro and in vivo study, we conducted a clinical trial to assess the skin anti-aging efficacy of CV. In this randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled trial, we measured indicators related to elasticity, wrinkles, and skin hydration at 4 and 8 weeks after consumption of CV. The subjects were categorized into caviar, combination, and placebo groups. After 4 weeks, skin hydration, dermal hydration, and transepidermal water loss all showed significant improvement. Furthermore, after 8 weeks, skin elasticity indexes-R2 (total elasticity), R5 (net elasticity), and R7 (ratio of elastic recovery to total deformation)-exhibited significant increases. Improvement in wrinkle indicators (Rmax, Ra, and Rz) and the whitening indicator melanin pigment was also observed. This is the first report showing that CV has significant skin anti-aging efficacy on human skin. In conclusion, our study suggests that CV can be used as skin anti-aging nutraceuticals through positive effects on skin condition in clinical trials.

Characterisation and skin protection activities of polysaccharides from Schnabelia terniflora

The bioactivities of crude polysaccharides from leaves (L-Ps) and flowers (F-Ps) of Schnabelia terniflora (Maxim.) P. D. Cantino were studied, and the characteristics of purified fractions were analysed by HPLC, HP-GPC and NMR. L-Ps exhibited strong DPPH radical scavenging activity (IC50 value of 251.53 ± 4.62 μg/mL) and tyrosinase inhibition (IC50 value of 163.52 ± 2.59 μg/mL). However, the maximum moisture absorption (74.67 ± 1.53%) and retention (68.00 ± 3.61%) abilities were observed in F-Ps. Two main fractions separated by DEAE-Sepharose fast flow column from L-Ps were eluted with 0.1 and 0.3 M NaCl, while one main fraction from F-Ps was eluted with 0.1 M NaCl. Purified fractions were obviously different in monosaccharide composition, molecular weight and 1H NMR and 13C NMR spectra. Therefore, the current manuscript can provide an important evidence for the potential development of L-Ps and F-Ps as promising ingredients in cosmetics industry.

Potent Antioxidant and Anti-Tyrosinase Activity of Butein and Homobutein Probed by Molecular Kinetic and Mechanistic Studies

Butein (BU) and homobutein (HB) are bioactive polyhydroxylated chalcones widespread in dietary plants, whose antioxidant properties require mechanistic definition. They were investigated by inhibited autoxidation kinetic studies of methyl linoleate in Triton™ X-100 micelles at pH 7.4, 37 °C. Butein had kinh = (3.0 ± 0.9) × 104 M-1s-1 showing a chain-breaking mechanism with higher antioxidant activity than reference α-tocopherol (kinh = (2.2 ± 0.6) × 104 M-1s-1), particularly concerning the stoichiometry or peroxyl radical trapping n = 3.7 ± 1.1 vs. 2.0 for tocopherol. Homobutein had kinh = (2.8 ± 0.9) × 103 M-1s-1, pairing the relative BDEOH measured by radical equilibration EPR as 78.4 ± 0.2 kcal/mol for BU and estimated as 82.6 kcal/mol for HB. The inhibition of mushroom tyrosinase (mTYR) by HB and BU was also investigated. BU gives a reversible uncompetitive inhibition of monophenolase reaction with KI' = 9.95 ± 2.69 µM and mixed-type diphenolase inhibition with KI = 3.30 ± 0.75 µM and KI' = 18.75 ± 5.15 µM, while HB was nearly competitive toward both mono- and diphenolase with respective KI of 2.76 ± 0.70 µM and 2.50 ± 1.56 µM. IC50 values (monophenolase/diphenolase at 1 mM substrate) were 10.88 ± 2.19 µM/15.20 ± 1.25 µM, 14.78 ± 1.05 µM/12.36 ± 2.00 µM, and 33.14 ± 5.03 µM/18.27 ± 3.42 µM, respectively, for BU, HB, and reference kojic acid. Molecular docking studies confirmed the mechanism. Results indicate very potent antioxidant activity for BU and potent anti-tyrosinase activity for both chalcones, which is discussed in relation to bioactivity toward protection from skin disorders and food oxidative spoilage.

Evaluation of the skin whitening and antioxidant activity of Myracrodruon urundeuva extract (aroeira-do-sertão)

Myracrodruon urundeuva, popularly known as 'aroeira-do-sertão', a large tree, with a tall trunk. Belonging to the Anacardiaceae family, it occurs in the 'caatinga' and dry forests of Brazil, from Ceará to the states of Paraná and Mato Grosso do Sul. The present study aimed to analyse the whitening and antioxidant activities of the aqueous extract of the leaves of Myracrodruon urundeuva (AELMU). Inhibition of the tyrosinase enzyme, as well as its copper chelating capacity and antioxidant effect were evaluated. The AELMU (at 2000 µg/mL) showed excellent inhibitory action (83.76%) on tyrosinase by chelating the copper ion while kojic acid at the same concentration inhibited 97.81%. Moreover, the extract displayed important antioxidant activity (inhibited 76,46% of the 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl radical - DPPH; 49,59% of thiobarbituric acid reactive substances and 51,07% of the hydroxyl radical). Thus, the extract under study is promising for use in cosmetics, given its multifactorial action.

Topical Application of No-Ozone Cold Plasma in Combination with Vitamin C Reduced Skin Redness and Pigmentation of UV-Irradiated Mice

Ultraviolet (UV) is the main cause of sunburn on the skin as it induces erythema and accelerates pigmentation. Vitamin C is one of the most frequently used compounds to reduce UV-induced skin pigmentation, but it has limitations in absorption through the skin. In this study, we tested whether a no-ozone cold plasma (NCP) treatment can improve UV-irradiated skin by helping the action of Vitamin C. For this, among five groups of HRM-2 hairless mice, four groups of mice were subjected to UVB irradiation, and three groups of UVB-treated mice were treated with NCP, Vitamin C, and NCP + Vitamin C, respectively. For evaluating the effect of each treatment, the melanin and erythema index was measured during animal experiments. Histological changes were monitored by performing H&E and MTS and IHC against tyrosinase and melanin. As a result, the naturally recovered mice showed a 28-point decrease in the melanin index, whereas a decrease of around 88, 74.3, and 106 points was detected in NCP-, Vitamin C-, and NCP + vitamin C-treated mice, respectively. Likewise, only a 39-point reduction in the erythema index was monitored in naturally recovered mice, but the NCP-, vitamin C-, and NCP + vitamin C-treated mice showed a 87.3-, 77-, and 111-point reduction, respectively. Interestingly, the skin tissues of the mice treated with NCP in combination with Vitamin C mostly recovered from UVB-induced damage. Altogether, this study elucidated the beneficial effect of the treatment of NCP in combination with Vitamin C on the UVB-irradiated skin, which might be helpful for treating sunburn on the skin.

Mechanism of skin whitening through San-Bai decoction-induced tyrosinase inhibition and discovery of natural products targeting tyrosinase

Melanin deposition is the main cause of skin darkening, which can lead to severe physical and psychological distress, necessitating the development of approaches for preserving skin health and fairness. Tyrosinase (TYR) is the rate-limiting enzyme in melanin synthesis, and its activity directly determines the degree of melanin accumulation in the skin, which in turn affects skin color. Currently, TYR inhibitors derived from natural products are widely used for skin whitening. San-Bai decoction (SBD) is effective for skin whitening and softening, but its mechanism of action, efficacy and high efficiency TYR inhibitors for skin whitening remain poorly understood. Here, we employed systems biology and network pharmacology to analyze the active compounds and targets of SBD, using the follow databases: TCMIP, TCMID, and BATMAN-TCM. Construct a molecular network centered on the regulation of TYR by SBD in skin whitening, using STRING database and cytoscape. Enrichment analysis using KOBAS database and ClusterProfiler. Virtual screening of candidate TYR inhibitors using Molecular Operating Environment software and Amber 18 software. SBD may act through tyrosine metabolism, melanogenesis, and other signaling pathways to regulate TYR activity and inhibit melanogenesis. We identified TYR and ESR1 as possible key targets for the whitening effect of SBD and screened out pentagalloylglucose, 1,3,6-tri-O-galloyl-beta-D-glucose, 1,2,4,6-tetragalloylglucose, and liquiritigenin 4',7-diglucoside as inhibitors of TYR, in addition to glycyrrhizic acid, pachymic acid methyl ester, nicotiflorin, gamma-sitosterol, and isoliensinine as inhibitors of ESR1. We also performed virtual drug screening of a library of natural small-molecule compounds (19,505 in total) and screened out lycopsamine, 2-phenylethyl b-D-glucopyranoside, and 6-beta-hydroxyhyoscyamine as inhibitors of TYR. We identified natural compounds with the potential for skin whitening through inhibition of TYR, thus advancing research on SBD and its applications.

Natural Melanogenesis Inhibitor, Antioxidant, and Collagen Biosynthesis Stimulator of Phytochemicals in Rice Bran and Husk Extracts from Purple Glutinous Rice (Oryza sativa L. cv. Pieisu 1 CMU) for Cosmetic Application

Oryza sativa L. cv. Pieisu 1 CMU (PES1CMU) has a high anthocyanin content in the colored bran and high phenolic content in the husk. Biologically active compounds in plants are available as dietary supplements and cosmetics. To expand the utilization of natural resources, PES1CMU will be a natural remedy for skin hyperpigmentation and aging. Cell-free tyrosinase inhibition and scavenging assays were used to screen all extracts, including PES1CMU-rice bran oil (RBO), PES1CMU-defatted rice bran (DFRB), and PES1CMU-husk (H). PES1CMU extracts were first examined in IBMX-stimulated B16 cells and H₂O₂-induced fibroblasts. The results exhibited that PES1CMU-DFRB was the most effective inhibitor of mushroom tyrosinase, intracellular melanin production (fold change of 1.11 ± 0.01), and tyrosinase activity (fold change of 1.22 ± 0.10) in IBMX-stimulated B16 cells. Particularly, PES1CMU-DFRB showed a comparable whitening effect to the standard arbutin with no significant difference (p > 0.05). Moreover, PES1CMU-DFRB and PES1CMU-H demonstrated strong scavenging activities. After accelerated cell aging caused by H₂O₂ exposure in fibroblasts, the levels of malondialdehyde production in all PES1CMU-treated fibroblasts were comparable with those of standard l-ascorbic acid (p > 0.05). Besides, PES1CMU-DFRB and PES1CMU-H treatment significantly inhibited collagen degradation against MMP-2 compared to l-ascorbic acid-treated cells (p > 0.05). PES1CMU rice-processing wastes (DFRB and H) could become potential natural sources for dermatocosmetic constituents in skin anti-aging and whitening products.

Awareness, Perception, and Utilization of Skin Lightening Agents Among Females of Asmara, Eritrea: A Cross-Sectional Study

Background

The use of skin lightening agents (SLAs) is common among African females with black skin color. Although they usually contain harmful ingredients and can cause complications, their use remains to be a common practice. This study was conducted to assess the awareness, perception, and utilization of SLAs among females residing in Asmara, Eritrea.

Methods

A cross-sectional analytical study using a quantitative approach was conducted in representative samples of all beauty salons available in Asmara from May to July, 2021. The study participants were selected using two-stage stratified cluster sampling and data were collected through a face-to-face interview using a structured questionnaire. Descriptive analysis and logistic regression, at bivariate and multivariate level, were performed.

Results

The study enrolled 721 females and 684 completed the study. The majority of the respondents had the perception that SLAs can make someone light colored (84.4%), look beautiful (67.8%), trendy and fashionable (55.0%), and white skin is more attractive than dark skin (58.8%). About two-thirds (64.2%) reported they had previously used SLAs, mainly influenced by friends (60.5%). Approximately 46% were current users, while 53.6% stopped it mainly due to adverse effects, fear of adverse effects and ineffectiveness. A total of 150 products including natural ingredients were mentioned being used to lighten the skin, and Aneeza, Natural face, and Betamethasone containing brands were among the top used products. The occurrence of at least one adverse effect due to the use of SLAs was 43.7%, while 66.5% were satisfied with the use of SLAs. Additionally, employment status and perception of SLAs were found to be determinants of being a current user.

Conclusion

Utilization of SLAs, including products containing harmful or medicinal ingredients, was prevalent among the females of Asmara city. Thus, coordinated regulatory interventions are recommended to tackle unsafe practices and raise public awareness to promote the safe use of cosmetics.

Potential Applications of Lilium Plants in Cosmetics: A Comprehensive Review Based on Research Papers and Patents

The application of cosmetics is indispensable in our current society. In recent years, with an increasing awareness of the long-term health benefits of naturally sourced ingredients, plant-based cosmetic products have gained increasing attention. Lilium belongs to the Liliaceae family, which is one of the main plant families used in cosmetics for skin care treatment. A large number of studies have shown that Lilium plants are rich in components such as phenolic acids, flavonoids, and polysaccharides, with high potential for cosmetic applications. However, the application of lilies in cosmetics has not been systematically reported. This knowledge gap can easily lead to the neglect of its application in cosmetics because lilies are most familiar as ornamental plants. Integrating academic papers and patent publications, we analyzed the potential cosmetic application ingredients in lily, as well as their applications in cosmetics and related efficacy. Patent analysis showed that applications for lily-related cosmetic patents are mainly concentrated in East Asia, including China, Korea, and Japan. The application of lilies involves all aspects of cosmetics, such as sunscreens, facial cleansers, facial masks, conditioners, and so on. Its functions are also rich and diverse, including antiaging, radiation protective, whitening, moisturizing, freckle removal, acne treatment, and hair regeneration promotion. In addition, lilies are compatible with the application of other herbs. Moreover, with a change in people’s consumption concepts and the consideration of long-term health benefits, lily-based food and medicine innovation with health care and beautification effects may be a promising direction.

Inhibitory effects and underlying mechanisms of Artemisia capillaris essential oil on melanogenesis in the B16F10 cell line

The present study investigated the anti-melanogenic activity of 10 essential oils using the B16F10 cell model. Initially, a wide range of concentrations of these essential oils were screened in order to determine their toxicity levels. The assigned non-toxic concentrations of the tested essential oils were then used to evaluate their effects on melanogenesis. The effects of the essential oils with potent anti-melanogenic activity on cell proliferation, protection against H₂O₂-induced cell death and the expression of certain melanogenesis-related genes, including MITF, tyrosinase, tyrosinase related protein (TRP)-1 and TRP-2 were also evaluated. The results revealed that the essential oils extracted from Citrus unshiu, Juniperus chinensis L., Zanthoxylum piperitum and Artemisia capillaris (A. capillaris) inhibited melanogenesis. However, among these four extracts, only A. capillaris extract enhanced cell proliferation, exhibited anti-H₂O₂ activities and decreased the expression level of TRP-1. It was demonstrated that A. capillaris extract inhibited melanin synthesis via the downregulation of the TRP-1 translational level. These essential oil extracts, particularly that of A. capillaris, may thus be used as natural anti-melanogenic agents for therapeutic purposes and in the cosmetic industry for skin whitening effects with beneficial proliferative properties. However, further studies using in vivo models are required to validate these findings and to examine the effects of these extracts on various molecular pathways.

Evaluation of ultra high-performance liquid chromatography (uHPLC) assisted capsaicinoids content in four different extracts of (Capsicum chinense Jacq.): their pharmacological potentials and genotoxicity study

The present study determined the capsaicin, dihydrocapsaicin and nordihydrocapsaicin of Capsicum chinense Jacq., ethanol, methanol, acetonitrile and dry acetone extracts using ultra high-performance liquid chromatography (uHPLC) technique. Highest capsaicin (2.84%) and nordihydrocapsaicin (0.56%) content was recorded in ethanol extract, while methanol extracts constituted highest dihydrocapsaicin (1.27%). Strong anti-inflammatory activity was shown by ethanol extract. All the extracts were found to be weak anti-diabetic, skin whitening and neurodegenerative agent. In genotoxicity test, ethanol extract showed mitotic index (MI) of 13.16% which was close to distilled water 25.72%. The chromosomal aberration of 8.0% was shown by ethanolic extract. The mitotic index value and chromosome aberration percentages of all the four extracts were similar but far from positive mutagenic agent ethyl methane sulfonate. Ethanol extract proved to be the best solvent for capsaicinoids extraction in comparison to the other three solvents and emerged as a potential pharmacological candidate having excellent anti-inflammatory ability.

Ethnobotanical Survey on Skin Whitening Prescriptions of Traditional Chinese Medicine in Taiwan

The increasing interest and demand for skin whitening products globally, particularly in Asia, have necessitated rapid advances in research on skin whitening products used in traditional Chinese medicine (TCM). Herein, we investigated 74 skin whitening prescriptions sold in TCM pharmacies in Taiwan. Commonly used medicinal materials were defined as those with a relative frequency of citation (RFC) > 0.2 and their characteristics were evaluated. Correlation analysis of commonly used medicinal materials was carried out to identify the core component of the medicinal materials. Of the purchased 74 skin whitening prescriptions, 36 were oral prescriptions, 37 were external prescriptions, and one prescription could be used as an oral or external prescription. After analysis, 90 traditional Chinese medicinal materials were obtained. The Apiaceae (10%; 13%) and Leguminosae (9%; 11%) were the main sources of oral and external medicinal materials, respectively. Oral skin whitening prescriptions were found to be mostly warm (46%) and sweet (53%), while external skin whitening prescriptions included cold (43%) and bitter (29%) medicinal materials. Additionally, mainly tonifying and replenishing effects of the materials were noted. Pharmacological analysis indicated that these medicinal materials may promote wound healing, treat inflammatory skin diseases, or anti-hyperpigmentation. According to the Spearman correlation analysis on interactions among medicinal materials with an RFC > 0.2 in the oral skin whitening prescriptions, Paeonia lactiflora Pall. (white) and Atractylodes macrocephala Koidz. showed the highest correlation (confidence score = 0.93), followed by Ziziphus jujuba Mill. (red) and Astragalus propinquus Schischkin (confidence score = 0.91). Seven medicinal materials in external skin whitening prescriptions with an RFC > 0.2, were classified as Taiwan qī bái sàn (an herbal preparation), including Angelica dahurica (Hoffm.) Benth. & Hook. f. ex Franch. & Sav., Wolfiporia extensa (Peck) Ginns, Bletilla striata (Thunb.) Rchb. f., Atractylodes macrocephala Koidz., Ampelopsis japonica (Thunb.) Makino, Paeonia lactiflora Pall. (white), and Bombyx mori Linnaeus. Skin whitening prescriptions included multiple traditional Chinese medicinal materials. Despite the long history of use, there is a lack of studies concerning skin whitening products, possibly due to the complex composition of traditional Chinese medicine. Further studies are required to assess the efficacy and safety of these traditional Chinese medicinal materials for inclusion in effective, safe, and functional pharmacological products.

Sponges and Their Symbionts as a Source of Valuable Compounds in Cosmeceutical Field

In the last decades, the marine environment was discovered as a huge reservoir of novel bioactive compounds, useful for medicinal treatments improving human health and well-being. Among several marine organisms exhibiting biotechnological potential, sponges were highlighted as one of the most interesting phyla according to a wide literature describing new molecules every year. Not surprisingly, the first marine drugs approved for medical purposes were isolated from a marine sponge and are now used as anti-cancer and anti-viral agents. In most cases, experimental evidence reported that very often associated and/or symbiotic communities produced these bioactive compounds for a mutual benefit. Nowadays, beauty treatments are formulated taking advantage of the beneficial properties exerted by marine novel compounds. In fact, several biological activities suitable for cosmetic treatments were recorded, such as anti-oxidant, anti-aging, skin whitening, and emulsifying activities, among others. Here, we collected and discussed several scientific contributions reporting the cosmeceutical potential of marine sponge symbionts, which were exclusively represented by fungi and bacteria. Bioactive compounds specifically indicated as products of the sponge metabolism were also included. However, the origin of sponge metabolites is dubious, and the role of the associated biota cannot be excluded, considering that the isolation of symbionts represents a hard challenge due to their uncultivable features.

Schisandrin B inhibits α-melanocyte-stimulating hormone-induced melanogenesis in B16F10 cells via downregulation of MAPK and CREB signaling pathways

Schisandrin B (Sch B), a lignan compound in Schisandra, possesses antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and antiobesity activities. The effect of Sch B on melanogenesis and molecular mechanisms are still unknown. Therefore, we aimed to investigate the antimelanogenic effects of Sch B on α-melanocyte-stimulating hormone-induced B16F10 cells and elucidate the underlying molecular mechanisms. We found that Sch B significantly suppressed melanin content and mushroom tyrosinase (TYR) activity. Sch B treatment decreased the expression of TYR, melanocyte-inducing transcription factor (MITF), tyrosinase-related protein (TRP) 1, and TRP2. Moreover, Sch B modulated the phosphorylation of p38, extracellular-regulated protein kinase, c-Jun N-terminal kinase, and cAMP-response element binding protein (CREB), implying that these pathways may be involved in suppressing melanogenesis. Furthermore, we found that Sch B decreased melanogenesis by downregulating MITF and melanogenic enzymes via MAPK and CREB pathways. Overall, these findings indicate that Sch B has the potential use in whitening.

A prepared platelet-rich plasma extract, namely Self-Growth Colony, inhibits melanogenesis by down-regulating microphthalmia-associated transcription factor in skin melanocyte

BACKGROUND

During melanogenesis, melanocytes produce melanin through enzymatic reactions. Microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF) is a major regulator in controlling the expressions of melanogenic enzymes tyrosinase (TYR), tyrosine-related protein-1 (TRP1), and dopachrome tautomerase (DCT). Self-Growth Colony (SGC) is prepared from human platelet-rich plasma (PRP) having an enrichment of growth factors, and which has claimed skin regeneration function.

AIM

In this study, we aim to identify and investigate the novel role of SGC in skin melanogenesis.

METHODS

MTT assay was performed to determine the cytotoxicity of applied SGC. Melanin assay was adopted to quantify the intracellular melanin after SGC treatment. Promoter-driven luciferase assay, real-time PCR, and Western blotting were performed to determine the expressions of melanogenic enzymes and MITF in SGC-treated cultured Melan-A cells, being treated with or without UV induction. Ex vivo mouse skin was treated with SGC, and then was subjected to Western blotting and histochemical staining.

RESULTS

We identified that SGC inhibited melanogenesis in cultured melanocytes and ex vivo mouse skin. The phenomena were attributed to a reduction of MITF expression, which subsequently down-regulated the melanogenic enzymes, that is, TYR, TRP1, and DCT. Moreover, ERK signaling was activated in the SGC-inhibited melanogenesis.

CONCLUSIONS

The findings suggest that SGC extracting from human blood can be a safe and potential agent in promoting skin whitening.

Traditional Asian Herbs in Skin Whitening: The Current Development and Limitations

In Asia, the market for whitening cosmetics is expanding rapidly, more and more people prefer to use natural products. Driven by natural product demand and technical advances, herbal research is also developing fast. Lots of studies reported that Asian herbal reagents can reduce melanogenesis, these findings provide evidence for the whitening application of Asian herbs. However, the current development status and challenges of herbal research need attention too. By reviewing these studies, different problems in studying herbal formulas, extracts, and active ingredients were presented. One of the most influential troubles is that the components of herbs are too complex to obtain reliable results. Thus, an understanding of the overall quality of herbal research is necessary. Further, 90 most cited Asian herbal studies on whitening were collected, which were conducted between 2017 and 2020, then statistical analysis was carried out. This work provided a comprehensive understanding of Asian herbal research in skin whitening, including the overall status and quality, as well as the focuses and limitations of these studies. By proactively confronting and analyzing these issues, it is suggested that the focus of herbal medicine research needs to shift from quantity to quality, and the new stage of development should emphasize transformation from research findings to whitening products.

Algae Metabolites in Cosmeceutical: An Overview of Current Applications and Challenges

Cosmetics are widely used by people around the world to protect the skin from external stimuli. Consumer preference towards natural cosmetic products has increased as the synthetic cosmetic products caused adverse side effects and resulted in low absorption rate due to the chemicals' larger molecular size. The cosmetic industry uses the term "cosmeceutical", referring to a cosmetic product that is claimed to have medicinal or drug-like benefits. Marine algae have gained tremendous attention in cosmeceuticals. They are one of the richest marine resources considered safe and possessed negligible cytotoxicity effects on humans. Marine algae are rich in bioactive substances that have shown to exhibit strong benefits to the skin, particularly in overcoming rashes, pigmentation, aging, and cancer. The current review provides a detailed survey of the literature on cosmeceutical potentials and applications of algae as skin whitening, anti-aging, anticancer, antioxidant, anti-inflammation, and antimicrobial agents. The biological functions of algae and the underlying mechanisms of all these activities are included in this review. In addition, the challenges of using algae in cosmeceutical applications, such as the effectiveness of different extraction methods and processing, quality assurance, and regulations concerning extracts of algae in this sector were also discussed.

Galuteolin, identified in the extract of thymus quinquecostatus flowers, is involved in inhibiting melanin biosynthesis in B16/F10 melanoma cells

To enhance the skin whitening effect, tyrosinase activity and melanin biosynthesis needs to be suppressed in the skin. To achieve this goal, we examined the extract of Thymus quinquecostatus flowers, and identified a functional ingredient, galuteolin. Galuteolin effectively inhibited melanin biosynthesis in B16/F10 cells, partially suppressing tyrosinase activity. Therefore, this study suggests that galuteolin can be used as a cosmetic ingredient for skin whitening.

Odorless Glutathione Microneedle Patches for Skin Whitening

Glutathione is a natural anti-aging substance that prevents the oxidation of protein thiols from reactive oxygen species. In the pharmaceutical industry, reduced glutathione (GSH) has been widely used for skin whitening due to its ability to inhibit tyrosinase. However, its poor permeability and foul odor limit its use in skin applications. Herein, we report a GSH-loaded dissolving microneedle (MN) patch prepared with hyaluronic acid (HA) that enables enhanced permeation across the skin and reduces the foul odor of GSH. HA was selected to prepare odorless GSH solutions and used for MN fabrications as a carrier of GSH. GSH-loaded MN (GSH-MN) arrays prepared from MN-forming solution containing up to 10% GSH showed good pattern uniformity and appropriate mechanical properties for insertion into the skin. The GSH-MNs with a loading capacity of 17.4% dissolve within 10 min following insertion into porcine skin and release the loaded GSH without being oxidized. This new approach combines functional biopolymers to reduce the characteristic GSH odor and advanced transdermal delivery based on MN technology to enhance skin permeation without pain. We believe this technique could expand the application of GSH in many cosmeceutical fields.

The High Content of Ent-11α-hydroxy-15-oxo-kaur- 16-en-19-oic Acid in Adenostemma lavenia (L.) O. Kuntze Leaf Extract: With Preliminary in Vivo Assays

BACKGROUND

Ent-11α-hydroxy-15-oxo-kaur-16-en-19-oic acid (11αOH-KA) is a multifunctional biochemical found in some ferns, Pteris semipinnata, and its congeneric species. Although a number of therapeutic applications of 11αOH-KA have been proposed (e.g., anti-cancer, anti-inflammation, and skin whitening), the content of 11αOH-KA in these ferns is not high. Adenostemma lavenia (L.) O. Kuntze, an Asteraceae, has also been reported to contain 11αOH-KA. The decoction (hot water extract) of whole plants of A. lavenia is used as a folk remedy for inflammatory disorders, such as hepatitis and pneumonia, suggesting that 11αOH-KA may be the ingredient responsible for the medicinal properties of this plant.

METHODS

The anti-melanogenic activities of the water extracts of A. lavenia leaves and Pteris dispar Kunze (a cognate of P. semipinnata) leaves were compared in mouse B16F10 melanoma cells. The amount of 11αOH-KA was measured by using liquid chromatography spectrometry. C57BL/6J mice were treated with the water extract of A. lavenia leaf, and the blood concentration of 11αOH-KA was measured. The in vivo efficacy of the water extract of A. lavenia leaf was evaluated according to tis anti-melanogenic activity by monitoring hair color.

RESULTS

Although both the extracts (A. lavenia and P. dispar Kunze) showed high anti-melanogenic activities, only A. lavenia contained a high amount of 11αOH-KA, approximately 2.5% of the dry leaf weight. 11αOH-KA can be purified from A. lavenia leaves in two steps: water extraction followed by chloroform distribution. The treatment of mice with the water extract of A. lavenia leaf suppresses pigmentation in their hairs.

CONCLUSIONS

Despite the small number of mice examined, the present preliminary result of the suppressed hair pigmentation suggests that the water extract of A. lavenia leaf and the ingredient that is possibly responsible for this-11αOH-KA-are new materials for oral cosmetics. The results may also be helpful in the future development of functional foods and methods to treat patients suffering from hyperpigmentation disorders, such as melasma.

Polyphenol-Rich Extracts Obtained from Winemaking Waste Streams as Natural Ingredients with Cosmeceutical Potential

Phenolics present in grapes have been explored as cosmeceutical principles, due to their antioxidant activity and ability to inhibit enzymes relevant for skin ageing. The winemaking process generates large amounts of waste, and the recovery of bioactive compounds from residues and their further incorporation in cosmetics represents a promising market opportunity for wine producers and may contribute to a sustainable development of the sector. The extracts obtained from grape marc and wine lees, using solid-liquid (SL) extraction with and without microwave (MW) pretreatment of the raw material, were characterized in terms of antioxidant activity through chemical (ORAC/HOSC/HORAC) and cell-based (keratinocytes-HaCaT; fibroblasts-HFF) assays. Furthermore, their inhibitory capacity towards specific enzymes involved in skin ageing (elastase; MMP-1; tyrosinase) was evaluated. The total phenolic and anthocyanin contents were determined by colorimetric assays, and HPLC-DAD-MS/MS was performed to identify the main compounds. The MW pretreatment prior to conventional SL extraction led to overall better outcomes. The red wine lees extracts presented the highest phenolic content (3 to 6-fold higher than grape marc extracts) and exhibited the highest antioxidant capacity, being also the most effective inhibitors of elastase, MMP-1 and tyrosinase. The results support that winemaking waste streams are valuable sources of natural ingredients with the potential for cosmeceutical applications.

Facial Microfiber Tissue with plant extracts: A new cosmetic concept shows whitening efficacy in Asian volunteers

BACKGROUND

The Asian population presents a high incidence of Fitzpatrick skin types III and IV. The management of skin tone is a very important cosmetic issue in these groups. Efficacy check of a new cosmetic concept to achieve skin color lightening arouses great interest.

OBJECTIVE

To estimate the clinical efficacy of a new facial microfiber tissue (FMT) which combines a surface micropeeling technology (due to the structure of the microfibers) with skin whitening cosmetic actives in Asian skin. The FMT is a new concept featuring a dry microfiber tissue loaded with cosmetic actives, which is just wetted with little tap water before use.

METHODS

A total of 34 females aged 21-58 years old with Fitzpatrick skin types III and IV were enrolled in this randomized, blank-controlled trial for 12 weeks. Participants applied FMT on the left or right forearm according to random assignment. At the same time, FMT was used on the face. Skin whitening effects on the forearm and face were evaluated using Mexameter MX18 and Minolta Spectrophotometer CM-2600d. In addition, assessment by subjects via a self-evaluation questionnaire was conducted at study end.

RESULTS

The FMT treatment showed a significant whitening effect mainly on the forearm compared with blank control forearm. Facial whitening was also noted. No adverse reactions were reported during the study.

CONCLUSION

The new cosmetic concept of FMT can be used as an effective and safe whitening cosmetic agent.

Different Levels of Skin Whitening Activity among 3,6-Anhydro-l-galactose, Agarooligosaccharides, and Neoagarooligosaccharides

3,6-Anhydro-l-galactose (AHG), a major monomeric constituent of red macroalgae (Rhodophyta), was recently reported to possess skin whitening activity. Moreover, AHG-containing oligosaccharides, such as agarooligosaccharides (AOSs) and neoagarooligosaccharides (NAOSs), have various physiological activities, including anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and skin moisturizing effects. In this study, AHG and NAOSs were produced from agarose by enzymatic reactions catalyzed by an endo-type β-agarase, an exo-type β-agarase, and a neoagarobiose hydrolase. In a cell proliferation assay, AHG, AOSs, and NAOSs at 12.5, 25, and 50 μg/mL concentrations did not exhibit cytotoxicity toward murine B16 melanoma cells or human epidermal melanocytes. In an in vitro skin whitening activity assay of AHG, AOSs, and NAOSs at 50 μg/mL, AHG showed the highest skin whitening activity in both murine B16 melanoma cells and human epidermal melanocytes; this activity was mediated by the inhibition of melanogenesis. Neoagarotetraose and neoagarohexaose also exhibited in vitro skin whitening activity, whereas neoagarobiose and AOSs with degrees of polymerization of 3 (agarotriose), 5 (agaropentaose), and 7 (agaroheptaose) did not. Therefore, AHG is responsible for the skin whitening activity of agar-derived sugars, and the structural differences among the AHG-containing oligosaccharides may be responsible for their different skin whitening activities.

Gomisin N Inhibits Melanogenesis through Regulating the PI3K/Akt and MAPK/ERK Signaling Pathways in Melanocytes

Gomisin N, one of the lignan compounds found in Schisandra chinensis has been shown to possess anti-oxidative, anti-tumorigenic, and anti-inflammatory activities in various studies. Here we report, for the first time, the anti-melenogenic efficacy of Gomisin N in mammalian cells as well as in zebrafish embryos. Gomisin N significantly reduced the melanin content without cellular toxicity. Although it was not capable of modulating the catalytic activity of mushroom tyrosinase in vitro, Gomisin N downregulated the expression levels of key proteins that function in melanogenesis. Gomisin N downregulated melanocortin 1 receptor (MC1R), adenylyl cyclase 2, microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF), tyrosinase, tyrosinase-related protein-1 (TRP-1), and tyrosinase-related protein-2 (TRP-2). In addition, Gomisin N-treated Melan-A cells exhibited increased p-Akt and p-ERK levels, which implies that the activation of the PI3K/Akt and MAPK/ERK pathways may function to inhibit melanogenesis. We also validated that Gomisin N reduced melanin production by repressing the expression of MITF, tyrosinase, TRP-1, and TRP-2 in mouse and human cells as well as in developing zebrafish embryos. Collectively, we conclude that Gomisin N inhibits melanin synthesis by repressing the expression of MITF and melanogenic enzymes, probably through modulating the PI3K/Akt and MAPK/ERK pathways.

Role of epidermal γδ T-cell-derived interleukin 13 in the skin-whitening effect of Ginsenoside F1

Ginsenoside F1 (GF1) is a metabolite of ginsenoside Rg1. Although GF1 has several benefits for skin physiology, the effect of GF1 on skin pigmentation has not been reported. We found that a cream containing 0.1% GF1 showed a significant whitening effect on artificially tanned human skin after 8 weeks of application. However, GF1 did not inhibit mRNA expression of tyrosinase or dopachrome tautomerase (DCT) in normal human epidermal melanocytes (NHEMs) or cocultured NHEMs/normal human epidermal keratinocytes. Interestingly, GF1 enhanced production of interleukin 13 (IL-13) from human epidermal γδ T cells. IL-13 significantly reduced the mRNA expression and protein amount of both tyrosinase and DCT and reduced melanin synthesis activities in NHEMs, resulting in visible brightening of NHEM pellet. These results suggest that enhancement of IL-13 production by GF1 from epidermal γδ T cells might play a role in the skin-whitening effect of GF1 via the suppression of tyrosinase and DCT.

Effect of ginseng and ginsenosides on melanogenesis and their mechanism of action

Abnormal changes in skin color induce significant cosmetic problems and affect quality of life. There are two groups of abnormal change in skin color; hyperpigmentation and hypopigmentation. Hyperpigmentation, darkening skin color by excessive pigmentation, is a major concern for Asian people with yellow–brown skin. A variety of hypopigmenting agents have been used, but treating the hyperpigmented condition is still challenging and the results are often discouraging. Panax ginseng has been used traditionally in eastern Asia to treat various diseases, due to its immunomodulatory, neuroprotective, antioxidative, and antitumor activities. Recently, several reports have shown that extract, powder, or some constituents of ginseng could inhibit melanogenesis in vivo or in vitro. The underlying mechanisms of antimelanogenic properties in ginseng or its components include the direct inhibition of key enzymes of melanogenesis, inhibition of transcription factors or signaling pathways involved in melanogenesis, decreasing production of inducers of melanogenesis, and enhancing production of antimelanogenic factor. Although there still remain some controversial issues surrounding the antimelanogenic activity of ginseng, especially in its effect on production of proinflammatory cytokines and nitric oxide, these recent findings suggest that ginseng and its constituents might be potential candidates for novel skin whitening agents.

Skin-whitening and skin-condition-improving effects of topical oxidized glutathione: a double-blind and placebo-controlled clinical trial in healthy women

Purpose

Glutathione is a tripeptide consisting of cysteine, glycine, and glutamate and functions as a major antioxidant. It is synthesized endogenously in humans. Glutathione protects thiol protein groups from oxidation and is involved in cellular detoxification for maintenance of the cell environment. Reduced glutathione (GSH) has a skin-whitening effect in humans through its tyrosinase inhibitory activity, but in the case of oxidized glutathione (GSSG) this effect is unclear. We examined the skin-whitening and skin-condition effects of topical GSSG in healthy women.

Subjects and methods

The subjects were 30 healthy adult women aged 30 to 50 years. The study design was a randomized, double-blind, matched-pair, placebo-controlled clinical trial. Subjects applied GSSG 2% (weight/weight [w/w]) lotion to one side of the face and a placebo lotion to the other side twice daily for 10 weeks. We objectively measured changes in melanin index values, moisture content of the stratum corneum, smoothness, wrinkle formation, and elasticity of the skin. The principal investigator and each subject also used subjective scores to investigate skin whitening, wrinkle reduction, and smoothness. Analysis of variance was used to evaluate differences between groups.

Results

The skin melanin index was significantly lower with GSSG treatment than with placebo from the early weeks after the start of the trial through to the end of the study period (at 10 weeks, P<0.001). In addition, in the latter half of the study period GSSG-treated sites had significant increases in moisture content of the stratum corneum, suppression of wrinkle formation, and improvement in skin smoothness. There were no marked adverse effects from GSSG application.

Conclusion

Topical GSSG is safe and effectively whitens the skin and improves skin condition in healthy women.

Phenolic composition, antioxidant, anti-wrinkles and tyrosinase inhibitory activities of cocoa pod extract

BACKGROUND

Cocoa pod is an outer part of cocoa fruits being discarded during cocoa bean processing. Authors found out that data on its usage in literature as cosmetic materials was not recorded in vast. In this study, cocoa pod extract was investigated for its potential as a cosmetic ingredient.

METHODS

Cocoa pod extract (CPE) composition was accomplished using UHPLC. The antioxidant capacity were measured using scavenging assay of 1,2-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH), β-carotene bleaching assay (BCB) and ferric reducing antioxidant power (FRAP). Inhibiting effect on skin degradation enzymes was carried out using elastase and collagenase assays. The skin whitening effect of CPE was determined based on mushroom tyrosinase assay and sun screening effect (UV-absorbance at 200-400 nm wavelength).

RESULTS

LC-MS/MS data showed the presence of carboxylic acid, phenolic acid, fatty acid, flavonoids (flavonol and flavones), stilbenoids and terpenoids in CPE. Results for antioxidant activity exhibited that CPE possessed good antioxidant activity, based on the mechanism of the assays compared with ascorbic acid (AA) and standardized pine bark extract (PBE); DPPH: AA > CPE > PBE; FRAP: PBE > CPE > AA; and BCB: BHT > CPE > PBE. Cocoa pod extract showed better action against elastase and collagenase enzymes in comparison with PBE and AA. Higher inhibition towards tyrosinase enzyme was exhibited by CPE than kojic acid and AA, although lower than PBE. CPE induced proliferation when tested on human fibroblast cell at low concentration. CPE also exhibited a potential as UVB sunscreen despite its low performance as a UVA sunscreen agent.

CONCLUSIONS

Therefore, the CPE has high potential as a cosmetic ingredient due to its anti-wrinkle, skin whitening, and sunscreen effects.

Spectrometric analysis of mercury content in 549 skin-lightening products: is mercury toxicity a hidden global health hazard?

BACKGROUND

Cosmetic skin lightening is practiced worldwide. Mercury is a well-documented melanotoxin added to some lightening products. However, mercury can cause many dermatologic, renal, and neurologic problems. The Food and Drug Administration limits the amount of mercury in cosmetic products to trace amounts, 1 ppm.

OBJECTIVE

The objective of this study was to quantitatively evaluate a large international sample of lightening products for mercury content, focusing on products available to US consumers either online or in stores.

METHODS

A total of 549 skin-lightening products, manufactured in 32 countries, were purchased online in the United States, Taiwan, and Japan and in stores in the United States, China, Taiwan, Thailand, Japan, and Sri Lanka. Cosmetics were screened for mercury content above 200 ppm using a low-cost portable x-ray fluorescence spectrometer.

RESULTS

Of the 549 tested products, 6.0% (n = 33) contained mercury above 1000 ppm. In all, 45% of mercury-containing samples contained mercury in excess of 10,000 ppm. Of lightening products purchased in the United States, 3.3% were found to contain mercury in excess of 1000 ppm.

LIMITATIONS

Our study did not evaluate creams for other melanosuppressive ingredients. Only 1 sample of each product was tested.

CONCLUSION

Our study confirms the national and global presence of mercury in skin-lightening products.

Study on the stability of deoxyArbutin in an anhydrous emulsion system

The skin-whitening agent, deoxyArbutin, is a potent tyrosinase inhibitor that is safer than hydroquinone and arbutin. However, it is thermolabile in aqueous solutions, where it decomposes to hydroquinone. Pharmaceutical and cosmetic emulsions are normally oil-in-water (o/w) or water-in-oil (w/o) systems; however, emulsions can be formulated with no aqueous phase to produce an anhydrous emulsion system. An anhydrous emulsion system could offer a stable vehicle for compounds that are sensitive to hydrolysis or oxidation. Therefore, to enhance the stability of deoxyArbutin in formulations, we chose the polyol-in-silicone, anhydrous emulsion system as the basic formulation for investigation. The quantity of deoxyArbutin and the accumulation of hydroquinone in both hydrous and anhydrous emulsions at various temperatures were analyzed through an established high performance liquid chromatographic (HPLC) method. The results indicated that water increased the decomposition of deoxyArbutin in the formulations and that the polyol-in-silicone, oil-based, anhydrous emulsion system provided a relatively stable surrounding for the deoxyArbutin that delayed its degradation at 25 °C and 45 °C. Moreover, the composition of the inner hydrophilic phase, containing different amounts of glycerin and propylene glycol, affected the stability of deoxyArbutin. Thus, these results will be beneficial when using deoxyArbutin in cosmetics and medicines in the future.

Determination of the thermodegradation of deoxyArbutin in aqueous solution by high performance liquid chromatography

Tyrosinase is the key and rate-limiting enzyme responsible for the conversion of tyrosine into melanin. Competitive inhibition of tyrosinase enzymatic activity results in decreased or absent melanin synthesis by melanocytes in human skin. DeoxyArbutin (4-[(tetrahydro-2H-pyran-2-yl)oxy]phenol), a novel skin whitening agent, was synthesized through the removal of hydroxyl groups from the glucose side-chain of arbutin. DeoxyArbutin not only shows greater inhibition of tyrosinase activity but is also safer than hydroquinone and arbutin. Hence, deoxyArbutin is a potential skin whitening agent for cosmetics and depigmenting drugs; however, stability of this compound under some conditions remains a problem. The lack of stability poses developmental and practical difficulties for the use of deoxyArbutin in cosmetics and medicines. Improving the thermostability of deoxyArbutin is an important issue for its development. In this research, we established an analytical procedure to verify the amount of deoxyArbutin in solutions using a high performance liquid chromatographic (HPLC) method. The results indicate that this novel skin whitening agent is a thermolabile compound in aqueous solutions. Additionally, the rate constant for thermodegradation (k) and the half-life (t(1/2)) of deoxyArbutin were determined and can be used to understand the thermodegradation kinetics of deoxyArbutin. This information can aid in the application of deoxyArbutin for many future uses.

Evaluation of depigmenting activity by 8-hydroxydaidzein in mouse B16 melanoma cells and human volunteers

In our previous study, 8-hydroxydaidzein (8-OHDe) was demonstrated to be a potent and unique suicide substrate of mushroom tyrosinase. In this study, the compound was evaluated for in vitro cellular tyrosinase and melanogenesis inhibitory activities in mouse B16 melanoma cells and for in vivo skin-whitening activity in human volunteers. Tyrosinase activity and melanogenesis in the cell culture incubated with 10 μM of 8-OHDe were decreased to 20.1% and 51.8% of control, respectively, while no obvious cytotoxicity was observed in this concentration. In contrast, a standard tyrosinase inhibitor, kojic acid, showed 69.9% and 71.3% of control in cellular tyrosinase and melanogenesis activity, respectively, at a concentration as high as 100 μM. Hence, 8-OHDe exhibited more than an inhibitory effects on melanin production in B16 cells 10-fold stronger than kojic acid. In addition, when a cream containing 4% 8-OHDe was applied to human skin in an in vivo study, significant increases in the dL*-values were observed after three weeks. Moreover, the increase in the dL*-values after 8-week treatment with 4% 8-OHDe (from −0.57 to 1.94) is stronger than those of 2% 8-OHDe treatment (from 0.26 to 0.94) and 2% ascorbic acid-2-glucoside treatment (from 0.07 to 1.54). From the results of the study, it was concluded that 8-OHDe, the potent suicide substrate of mushroom tyrosinase, has depigmenting activities in both mouse melanoma cells and in human volunteers. Thus, the compound has significant potential for use in cosmetics as a skin-whitening ingredient.

Mir-434-5p mediates skin whitening and lightening

Utilization of gene silencing effectors, such as microRNA (miRNA) and small hairpin RNA (shRNA), provides a powerful new strategy for human skin care in vivo, particularly for hyperpigmentation treatment and aging prevention. In this study, tyrosinase (Tyr), the rate-limiting enzyme of melanin (black pigment) biosynthesis, was served as a target for treatment of hyperpigmentation in mouse and human skins. There are over 54 native microRNA capable of silencing human tyrosinase for skin whitening and lightening. To this, we have designed a mir-434-5p homologue and used it to successfully demonstrate the feasibility of miRNA-mediated skin whitening and lightening in vitro and in vivo. Under the same experimental condition in the trials, Pol-II-directed intronic mir-434-5p expression did not cause any detectable sign of cytotoxicity, whereas siRNAs targeting the same sequence often induced certain nonspecific mRNA degradation as previously reported. Because the intronic miRNA-mediated gene silencing pathway is tightly regulated by multiple intracellular surveillance systems, including Pol-II transcription, RNA splicing, exosomal digestion and nonsense-mediated RNA decay (NMD), the current findings underscore the fact that intronic miRNA agents, such as manually re-designed mir-434-5p homologues, are effective, target-specific and safe to be used for skin whitening without any detectable cytotoxic effect. Given that the human skins also express a variety of other native miRNAs, we may re-design these miRNAs based on their individual functions for skin care, which may provide significant insights into areas of opportunity for new cosmetic and/or therapeutical applications.