Intrinsic and extrinsic factors in skin ageing: a review

A study on the anti-senescent effects of flavones derived from Prinsepia utilis Royle seed residue

ETHNOPHARMACOLOGICAL RELEVANCE

Prinsepia utilis Royle, also known as the Anas fruit, is a unique perennial woody oil plant from Yunnan Province, China. In the ancient texts of Dongba sutras and Yunnan Southern Materia Medica, it has been documented that the local Naxi, Tibetan, and Mosuo communities extensively utilize the root and leaf fruits of green thorns for various purposes. These include treating mild-to-moderate specific dermatitis, moisturising the skin, providing protection against UV damage, aiding childbirth in pregnant women, safeguarding stomach health, reducing the risk of arteriosclerosis, and delaying aging.

AIM OF THE STUDY

In this study, leftover residues from oil extraction were efficiently reused, and flavonoids were identified during subsequent extraction and separation processes. The anti-senescent effects of flavonoids in P. utilis Royle have not been systematically studied. Therefore, the objective of this study was to explore the anti-senescent properties of the flavonoids obtained from P. utilis Royle.

METHODS

First, HPLC and other analytical techniques were used to identify the components of the P. utilis Royle flavonoid (PURF). Next, DPPH, hydroxyl radicals, superoxide anion O2-, collagenase, and elastase were initially detected using in vitro biochemical assays. To examine its antioxidant properties, a zebrafish model was used, and to confirm its anti-senescent effects, a d-galactose-induced mouse aging model was employed. The anti-senescent mechanism of PURF was examined using a natural senescence HFF model. Furthermore, the anti-senescent target was confirmed using a 3D full T-Skin™ model.

RESULTS

In vitro biochemical assays demonstrated that flavones exhibited potent antioxidant activity and anti-senescent potential by inhibiting DPPH, hydroxyl radicals, superoxide anion O2-, collagenase, and elastase. It significantly enhanced the antioxidant effect on zebrafish while suppressing ROS and inflammatory injury, up-regulating COL1A1, COL3A1, AMPK, and mTOR gene expression and down-regulating MMP-9, TGF-β, p21, and p16 gene expression suggesting its potential anti-senescent ability. Findings from the D-galactose-induced aging mouse model showed that PURF greatly increased SOD levels, while simultaneously decreasing HYP and MDA levels. In addition, when PURF was given to the HFF cell and 3D full T-Skin™ model, consistent trends were observed in gene and protein expression, with up-regulation of COL1A1, COL3A1, AMPK, and mTOR genes and down-regulation of TGF-β, MMP-1, MMP-9, p21, and p16 genes. Therefore, these preliminary findings indicate that flavones can modulate AMPK/mTOR/TGF-β signalling pathways to exert its influence.

CONCLUSION

The kernel residue of natural P. utilis Royle oil extracted from Yunnan province was previously considered agricultural waste, but we successfully extracted and isolated its flavonoid components. Our preliminary studies demonstrated its potential as an environmentally friendly anti-senescent raw material.

Anti-aging Effects of Tirbanibulin 1% Ointment: A Real-Life Experience

INTRODUCTION

Tirbanibulin 1% ointment has been licensed to treat non-hyperkeratotic actinic keratosis (AKs) on the face and scalp in adults to ensure excellent patient tolerability due to the mild side effects and the brief application time compared to other topical therapies on the market. A growing body of evidence suggests that, beyond their primary function, the treatments for AKs and the cancerization field may inadvertently confer substantial cosmetic benefits to patients.

METHODS

We report a single-center retrospective case series of patients referred to the Dermatology Unit of the University Hospital of Messina, Italy, between February and December 2023 seeking treatment for AKs in the context of photodamaged areas in which the application of tirbanibulin 1% ointment induced, besides clearance of AKs, anti-aging effects on both skin texture and solar lentigos.

RESULTS

Seven patients affected by Olsen grade 1-2 AKs experienced a powerful rejuvenating effect in the treated areas, with a marked efficacy in skin lightening and clearance of solar lentigo.

CONCLUSIONS

Tirbanibulin 1% ointment seems able to improve skin aging as a desirable side effect at the site of application for AKs on chronic photodamaged skin. Such preliminary observation needs further confirmation in real-life studies on larger cohorts of patients, to explain the pathogenic mechanisms responsible for such aesthetically relevant results.

Correlations of light scattering properties in human skin with the person's age assessed using a non-invasive technique

We analyze the influence of a person's age on the thicknesses and reduced scattering coefficients of the epidermis and dermis in visible part of the spectrum. Their values were assessed using a non-invasive technique which combines pulsed photothermal radiometry and diffuse reflectance spectroscopy with Monte Carlo modeling of light transport in a four-layer model of skin. The analysis is affected by the strong influences of the melanin content on the reduced scattering coefficient of the epidermis, a epi, and blood content in the case of dermis (a der). Separating their contributions reveals a significant decrease of a der with the person's age at an average rate of -0.25 mm-1 per decade, while the contribution of blood in the papillary dermis amounts to 1.0 mm-1%-1. Meanwhile, no influence of the person's age was found on a epi and the thicknesses of the epidermis or dermis.

Beneficial Effects of Multi-Micronutrient Supplementation with Collagen Peptides on Global Wrinkles, Skin Elasticity and Appearance in Healthy Female Subjects

INTRODUCTION

With ageing, collagen production slows down, leading to wrinkle appearance and loss of elasticity. Replenishing key structural molecules through oral supplementation is a promising strategy that complements the topical delivery of cosmetic products and creates a holistic skincare regimen. The present study assessed the effectiveness of a food supplement with collagen peptides, vitamins and minerals in improving the quality of the skin and general wellbeing of healthy women.

METHODS

This was an open-label study of 135 women aged between 45 and 65 years. A 3-month treatment phase followed a 4-week washout phase, with visits scheduled at baseline and after each month of treatment. Subjects received three tablets of Richelet Skin Renewal daily. The primary outcome was change from baseline to month 3 in global wrinkles score by expert grader analysis. Secondary outcomes included changes in skin elasticity and other skin attributes, product assessment via self-perception questionnaires and total antioxidant status.

RESULTS

A total of 116 subjects completed the study. The mean global wrinkles score indicated a statistically significant decrease from 5.9 at baseline to 5.0 at month 3 (p < 0.0001), with 83.6% of subjects showing an improvement; significant changes were reported at all intermediate visits. The increase in skin elasticity was also statistically significant (R2 score 0.74 at month 3; p < 0.0001). All subjects (100%) demonstrated significant improvements in skin texture, skin tone evenness, skin radiance and overall skin quality at the month 3 visit.

CONCLUSIONS

The study product achieved statistically significant, noticeable effects on global wrinkles, skin elasticity and a range of skin attributes after 3 months of use in healthy women. These results strengthen the evidence for supplementation of collagen peptides and other micronutrients as an effective component of anti-ageing skincare.

Use of a fractional 1570-nm diode laser scanner for non-ablative face and neck rejuvenation

BACKGROUND

The use of non-ablative fractionated lasers for skin rejuvenation has been proven to be effective in improving skin texture, and has become popular due to minimal wounding, significantly shorter recovery times and decreased adverse effects.

OBJECTIVE

To retrospectively analyze improvement in skin texture in healthy women aged over 18 years with Fitzpatrick skin types II-IV.

METHODS

Participants received three facial and/or neck treatments with the 1570-nm fractional scanning diode laser at 1-month intervals. Three months after the last treatment session two blinded evaluators assessed skin improvement using before and after photos. Pain and patient satisfaction were recorded.

RESULTS

Sixteen women with a mean age of 45.4 ± 4.1 years (range 35-50 years) and skin type II-IV were included in the analysis. All 16 participants received facial treatments and seven (43.8%) also received neck treatments. Three months follow-up evaluation showed that the majority of participants had a visible change in the treated areas. Mean pain score was low and decreased with each treatment session.

CONCLUSION

Skin treatment using fractional scanning 1570-nm diode laser improves skin laxity in women with skin types II-IV. Larger studies are warranted to further clarify the efficacy and safety of this modality.

Synergistic effect of Panax ginseng, Polygonatum cyrtonema, Epiphyllum oxypetalum, Nelumbo nucifera and Osmanthus fragrans extracts on skin aging regulation. From in silico predictions to in vitro outcome

Intrinsic and extrinsic aging affect the health of human skin. Extracellular matrix protein degradation, DNA damage and oxidative stress are known to disturb skin architecture and skin homeostasis leading to skin aging. Traditional Chinese Medicine (TCM) delivers a large amount of knowledge regarding the phytotherapeutic power of diverse plants. Panax ginseng, Polygonatum cyrtonema, Epiphyllum oxypetalum, Nelumbo nucifera and Osmanthus fragrans are five plants used in TCM for their protective effect. In this study, several combinations of these TCM plants were explored: first, an in silico analysis was performed to predict their potential to target biological activities in the skin and then, some predictions were verified with in vitro studies to underline the synergistic effect of plant extracts. The results showed a stronger anti-aging activity for the combination with the five plants compared to the combination with Panax ginseng, Polygonatum cyrtonema, Epiphyllum oxypetalum and, compared to Panax ginseng alone.

Evaluation of the anti-aging effects of Zinc-α2-glycoprotein peptide in clinical and in vitro study

BACKGROUND

Skin aging, characterized by the deterioration of skin density and elasticity, is a common concern among individuals seeking to maintain a youthful appearance. Zinc-α2-glycoprotein (ZAG) is secreted by various body fluids, and is associated with lipolysis and identified as an atopic dermatitis biomarker. This study evaluated the potential of ZAG peptides, which exert multiple benefits such as anti-aging.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

We conducted a 4-week clinical trial on patients with noticeable periorbital wrinkles (n = 22) using a ZAG peptide-containing product. The effects of the products on skin density, elasticity, and the depth of periorbital wrinkles were evaluated using Cutometer Dual MPA580, Ultrascan, and Antera 3D CS, respectively. The effect of ZAG peptides on UVB-treated keratinocyte cells was evaluated in vitro to understand the mechanisms underlying its effects against impaired skin barrier function, collagen degradation, and senescence. In addition, the effects of ZAG peptides on cell viability and expression of aging and skin barrier-related genes were assessed using cell counting kit assay and quantitative reverse transcription-polymerase chain reaction, respectively.

RESULTS

The patients demonstrated improved skin density, elasticity, and reduced periorbital wrinkles. Further, more than 85% patients scored the product as satisfactory regarding anti-aging effects. Furthermore, ZAG peptides reduced SA-β-gal staining, downregulated the senescence-related genes, and upregulated the skin barrier function-related genes in UVB-irradiated keratinocyte cells.

CONCLUSIONS

Our clinical and in vitro findings showed that ZAG peptides exert anti-aging effects and improve skin barrier functions, suggesting their promising potential as therapeutic agents to combat skin aging and improve skin health.

Electrospun Nanofibers Encapsulated with Natural Products: A Novel Strategy to Counteract Skin Aging

The skin is the primary tissue affected by wounds and aging, significantly impacting its protective function. Natural products are widely used in cosmetics, representing a new approach to preventing age-related damage. Nanomedicine combines nanotechnology and traditional treatments to create innovative drugs. The main targets of nanotechnological approaches are wound healing, regeneration, and rejuvenation of skin tissue. The skin barrier is not easily permeable, and the creation of modern nanodevices is a way to improve the passive penetration of substances. In this study, Helichrysum italicum oil (HO) was combined with different types of electrospun nanofibers to study their protective activity on the skin and to evaluate their future application for topical treatments. In the present research, we used biodegradable polymers, including polyvinyl alcohol (PVA) and polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP), which were characterized by a scanning electron microscope (SEM). All results show a positive trend in cell proliferation and viability of human skin stem cells (SSCs) and BJ fibroblasts pre-treated with combined nanofibers and then exposed to UV stress. Gene expression analysis revealed the activation of a molecular rejuvenation program in SSCs treated with functionalized nanofibers before UV exposure. Understanding the mechanisms involved in skin changes during aging allows for the future application of nanomaterials combined with HO directly to the patients.

L-4-thiazolylalanine (Protinol), a novel non-proteinogenic amino acid, demonstrates epidermal and dermal efficacy with clinically observable benefits

OBJECTIVE

Facial skin undergoes major structural and functional changes as a result of intrinsic and extrinsic factors. The goal of the current work is to demonstrate L-4-thiazolylalaine (L4, Protinol), a non-proteinogenic amino acid shown to stimulate the production of dermal proteins by fibroblasts, is an alternative efficacious topical ingredient for visible signs of ageing.

METHODS

In vitro studies using 3D human skin tissue models were performed to show changes in protein and gene expression of key dermal markers in samples treated with 0.3% L4 compared to vehicle control. In vivo evaluation of skin turnover was measured in volunteers after treatment with L4 compared to retinol. Skin biopsies (n = 30) were taken to investigate epidermal and dermal changes in cases treated with L4 and compared to retinol. Finally, a clinical evaluation (n = 28) was conducted to assess the efficacy of L4 over a base formulation using various ageing parameters within a population of women 46-66 years old with mild-to-moderate wrinkles.

RESULTS

In vitro studies on 3D tissues displayed significant changes in the dermal matrix via an increase in HA and pro-collagen I production and a decrease in the expression of inflammatory genes. In vivo biopsy studies demonstrated that L4 and retinol independently increased epidermal thickness and collagen remodelling significantly more compared with the base formula. Clinical evaluation showed firmer and smoother skin at day 28 post-treatment with L4 over the vehicle control without causing side effects such as redness or irritation.

CONCLUSION

L4 is a novel, multi-functional ingredient which offers a superior alternative to currently available technologies for improving epidermal and dermal parameters that change during ageing and photodamage.

Preventive effect of human umbilical cord mesenchymal stem cells on skin aging in rats

The irreversibility of aging makes anti-aging become an important research direction in the field of medical research. As the most direct manifestation of human aging, skin aging has been paid more and more attention. Stem cells have been used as a basis for anti-aging studies in skin, of which adipose-derived mesenchymal stem cells are more commonly used. In this study, human umbilical cord mesenchymal stem cells were used, and human umbilical cord mesenchymal stem cells were intervened while making a skin aging model, which was planned to reduce the process of preventing skin aging in the study method. At the end of the experiment, rat skin and serum were taken for relevant data detection. The results showed that the contents of EGF and VEGF in serum and skin tissue of rats increased and the content of MDA decreased after the application of human umbilical cord mesenchymal stem cells. At the same time, hUCMSC intervention increased skin thickness, increased dermal vessels, increased type I collagen type III collagen mRNA expression, and decreased MMP-1 content in rats. The results showed that hUCMSC could prevent skin aging in rats.

Stress, epigenetics, and aging: Unraveling the intricate crosstalk

Aging, as a complex process involving multiple cellular and molecular pathways, is known to be exacerbated by various stresses. Because responses to these stresses, such as oxidative stress and genotoxic stress, are known to interplay with the epigenome and thereby contribute to the development of age-related diseases, investigations into how such epigenetic mechanisms alter gene expression and maintenance of cellular homeostasis is an active research area. In this review, we highlight recent studies investigating the intricate relationship between stress and aging, including its underlying epigenetic basis; describe different types of stresses that originate from both internal and external stimuli; and discuss potential interventions aimed at alleviating stress and restoring epigenetic patterns to combat aging or age-related diseases. Additionally, we address the challenges currently limiting advancement in this burgeoning field.

Aging Hallmarks and Progression and Age-Related Diseases: A Landscape View of Research Advancement

Aging is a dynamic, time-dependent process that is characterized by a gradual accumulation of cell damage. Continual functional decline in the intrinsic ability of living organisms to accurately regulate homeostasis leads to increased susceptibility and vulnerability to diseases. Many efforts have been put forth to understand and prevent the effects of aging. Thus, the major cellular and molecular hallmarks of aging have been identified, and their relationships to age-related diseases and malfunctions have been explored. Here, we use data from the CAS Content Collection to analyze the publication landscape of recent aging-related research. We review the advances in knowledge and delineate trends in research advancements on aging factors and attributes across time and geography. We also review the current concepts related to the major aging hallmarks on the molecular, cellular, and organismic level, age-associated diseases, with attention to brain aging and brain health, as well as the major biochemical processes associated with aging. Major age-related diseases have been outlined, and their correlations with the major aging features and attributes are explored. We hope this review will be helpful for apprehending the current knowledge in the field of aging mechanisms and progression, in an effort to further solve the remaining challenges and fulfill its potential.

Research on the anti-aging efficacy of fermented lysate VHProbi® MixA as the functional skincare ingredient

AIMS

This study aimed to investigate the efficacy of a cream containing VHProbi® MixA for improving skin aging.

METHODS AND RESULTS

In vitro studies demonstrated that the lysate produced from Lacticaseibacillus paracasei E12 (E12) exhibited immunoregulatory effects in a 3D skin model, with significant reductions in levels of interleukin (IL)-1α, IL-1β, and IL-8 (P < 0.05) compared with the control group. In addition, the lysate of E12 mitigated the hydrogen peroxide-induced mortality of 3D skin cells and enhanced the transepithelial electrical resistance to show significant differences in comparison with control (P < 0.05), suggesting favorable antioxidant effects. The antioxidant capacity of the lysate of E12 was also confirmed using the Caenorhabditis elegans N2 model. C. elegans N2 fed the E12 strain showed a significantly higher % survival than those fed Escherichia coli OP50 (P < 0.05). Subsequently, VHProbi® MixA was formulated using the fermented lysates of E12, Lactiplantibacillus plantarum E15, and Limosilactobacillus reuteri E18. In a clinical study to ascertain if a cream containing VHProbi® MixA could improve the skin aging trends, participants were asked to use the investigational products for 60 days, and six indicators, transepidermal water loss (TEWL), hydration, elasticity, wrinkles, skin texture (roughness), and pores were measured at baseline and the endpoint of the study. A self-evaluation questionnaire analysis was also provided. TEWL, wrinkles, skin texture, and thickness of pores decreased significantly after treatment with the cream for 60 days (P < 0.01), whereas hydration and elasticity increased significantly (P < 0.01), in comparison to the baseline measurements.

CONCLUSIONS

We hypothesize that the use of the cream containing VHProbi® MixA could be favorable for skin anti-aging management.

Delayed Wound Healing in the Elderly and a New Therapeutic Target: CD271

With the development of society, the global population is showing a trend of aging. It is well known that age is one of the factors affecting wound healing. Aging compromises the normal physiological process of wound healing, such as the change of skin structure, the decrease of growth factors, the deceleration of cell proliferation, and the weakening of migration ability, hence delaying wound healing. At present, research in adult stem cell-related technology and its derived regenerative medicine provides a novel idea for the treatment of senile wounds. Studies have confirmed that CD271 (P75 neurotropism receptor/P75NTR)-positive cells (CD271+ cells) are a kind of stem cells with a stronger ability of proliferation, differentiation, migration and secretion than CD271 negative (CD271- cells). Meanwhile, the total amount and distribution of CD271 positive cells in different ages of skin are also different, which may be related to the delayed wound healing of aging skin. Therefore, this article reviews the relationship between CD271+ cells and senile wounds and discusses a new scheme for the treatment of senile wounds.

Anti-aging Strategies and Topical Delivery of Biopolymer-based Nanocarriers for Skin Cancer Treatment

Environmental factors like UV radiation and epigenetic changes are significant factors for skin cancer that trigger early aging. This review provides essential information on cancer development concerning aging, the receptors involved, and the therapeutic targets. Biopolymers like polysaccharide, polyphenols, proteins, and nucleic acid plays a vital role in the regulation of normal cell homeostasis. Therefore, it is pertinent to explore the role of biopolymers as antiaging formulations and the possibility of these formulations being used against cancer via topical administrations. As UV radiation is one of the predominant factors in causing skin cancer, the association of receptors between aging and cancer indicated that insulin receptor, melatonin receptor, toll-like receptor, SIRT 1 receptor, tumor-specific T cell receptor and mitochondria-based targeting could be used to direct therapeutics for suppression of cancer and prevent aging. Biopolymer-based nanoformulations have tremendously progressed by entrapment of drugs like curcumin and resveratrol which can prevent cancer and aging simultaneously. Certain protein signaling or calcium and ROS signaling pathways are different for cancer and aging. The involvement of mitochondrial DNA mutation along with telomere shortening with a change in cellular energetics leading to genomic instability in the aging process can also induce mitochondrial dysfunction and epigenetic alterations leading to skin cancer. Therefore, the use of biopolymers as a topical supplement during the aging process can result in the prevention of cancer.

Efficacy and tolerability of Profhilo® Structura intended to restore lateral cheek fat compartment: An observational pilot study

Background and Aims

Hyaluronic acid (HA)-based injections are used worldwide to improve skin defects associated with aging and ultraviolet light/environmental exposure. HA formulations developed according to molecular weight or with additional components, for example, cross-linking reagents, are limited by their low biological activity and concentration limit. NAHYCO™ technology has enabled the production of hybrid cooperative complexes (HCCs) of low and high molecular weight HA. Developed for injection into the fat compartments of the face and previously demonstrating potential benefits for adipose tissue restoration, Profhilo Structura® is a new 2 mL HCC formulation comprising low molecular weight HA (45 mg/mL) and high molecular weight HA (45 mg/mL). To evaluate the efficacy and tolerability of Profhilo Structura® to restore adipose tissue compartments in the lateral cheek fat compartment.

Methods

Fifty healthy enrolled subjects received two injections, 1 month apart, and were evaluated 3 months posttreatment. Investigators performed clinical evaluations (Facial Volume Loss Scale [FVLS] and Wrinkle Severity Rating Scale [WSRS]) at different time points. Subjects also completed self-evaluation assessments following treatment.

Results

A significant improvement in FVLS and WSRS clinical scores after the first treatment was observed; treatment benefit was maintained 3 months after treatment completion and confirmed by subject self-assessment. Most participants reported an improvement, particularly a marked reduction of wrinkles and increased skin firmness. No serious adverse events were reported, confirming the excellent safety profile of HCC injectable devices.

Conclusions

Overall, the study highlighted the efficacy and tolerability of the studied medical device proving its effect on adipose tissue.

Skin Anti-Aging Efficacy of Enzyme-Treated Supercritical Caviar Extract: A Randomized, Double-Blind, Placebo-Controlled Clinical Trial

Oxidative stress in the skin, induced by an unhealthy lifestyle and exposure to UVB radiation, leads to skin aging, including reduced elasticity, formation of wrinkles, moisture loss, and inflammation. In a previous study, we revealed the photoaging effects of enzyme-treated caviar extract (CV) by regulating collagen and hyaluronic acid synthase, melanogenesis, anti-oxidant mechanisms, and inflammation in a UVB irradiation-induced mice model. HPLC and MALDI-TOF were performed to determine the effect of enzyme treatment on the free amino acid contents and peptide molecular weight in supercritical caviar extract. As results of the analysis, CV is mainly composed of low-molecular-weight peptides consisting of leucine, tyrosine, and phenylalanine. Based on our in vitro and in vivo study, we conducted a clinical trial to assess the skin anti-aging efficacy of CV. In this randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled trial, we measured indicators related to elasticity, wrinkles, and skin hydration at 4 and 8 weeks after consumption of CV. The subjects were categorized into caviar, combination, and placebo groups. After 4 weeks, skin hydration, dermal hydration, and transepidermal water loss all showed significant improvement. Furthermore, after 8 weeks, skin elasticity indexes-R2 (total elasticity), R5 (net elasticity), and R7 (ratio of elastic recovery to total deformation)-exhibited significant increases. Improvement in wrinkle indicators (Rmax, Ra, and Rz) and the whitening indicator melanin pigment was also observed. This is the first report showing that CV has significant skin anti-aging efficacy on human skin. In conclusion, our study suggests that CV can be used as skin anti-aging nutraceuticals through positive effects on skin condition in clinical trials.

Unraveling Biotic and Abiotic Factors Shaping Sugarcane Straw Polyphenolic Richness: A Gateway to Artificial Intelligence-Driven Crop Management

Sugarcane straw (Saccharum officinarum) is a valuable coproduct renowned for its abundant polyphenolic content. However, extracting these polyphenols for natural ingredients faces challenges due to their inherent variability, influenced by biotic stress factors and plant characteristics. We explored the impact of five crucial factors on sugarcane straw polyphenolic diversity: (i) production area (Guariba, Valparaíso), (ii) borer insect (Diatraea saccharalis) infestation, (iii) plant age (first to seventh harvest), (iv) harvest season, and (v) plant variety. Response surface methodology (RSM) and artificial neural networks (ANN) were used to optimize polyphenol extraction conditions. A second-order polynomial model guided us to predict ideal sugarcane straw harvesting conditions for polyphenol-rich extracts. The analysis identified CU0618-variety straw, harvested in Guariba during the dry season (October 2020), at the seventh harvest stage, with 13.81% borer insect infection, as the prime source for high hydroxybenzoic acid (1010 µg/g), hydroxycinnamic acid (3119 µg/g), and flavone (573 µg/g) content and consequently high antioxidant capacity. The ANN model surpasses the RSM model, demonstrating superior predictive capabilities with higher coefficients of determination and reduced mean absolute deviations for each polyphenol class. This underscores the potential of artificial neural networks in forecasting and enhancing polyphenol extraction conditions, setting the stage for AI-driven advancements in crop management.

Considerations in geriatric dermatopathology

This review provides an overview of considerations in geriatric dermatopathology. The nuances of specimen collection and reporting in this population, including the importance of obtaining adequate tissue, providing detailed clinical information and ethical considerations surrounding specimen collection will be discussed. The histopathologic changes associated with aging and the morphologic features of common lesions related to photoaging are outlined followed by a discussion of common interpretation pitfalls, specifically entities at risk of overinterpretation and those related to hyper- and hypopigmentation. Finally, the recent literature is reviewed regarding special cases and what this implies for future research both in dermatology and dermatopathology.

Synergistic Effect of Madecassoside and Rosmarinic Acid Against Ultraviolet B-Induced Photoaging in Human Skin Fibroblasts

Madecassoside (MD) and rosmarinic acid (RA) are well-known compounds with wound healing and antiaging effects. We demonstrated the synergistic protective activity of the MD-RA combination in Hs68 cells against ultraviolet B (UVB)-induced photoaging. The cell viabilities of MD, RA, and MD-RA combinations at various ratios (9:1, 8:2, 7:3, 6:4, 5:5, 4:6, 3:7, 2:8, and 1:9, v/v) were measured to compare their protective effects against UVB radiation. The synergistic interaction between MD and RA was confirmed using a combination index. The strongest effect of the MD-RA combination was observed at a ratio of 3:7. The combination of MD-RA 3:7 exerted a synergistic effect against UVB-induced changes in cell viability, as well as superoxide dismutase activity, reactive oxygen species, glutathione, catalase activity, and malondialdehyde levels. Moreover, the inhibitory effect of the MD-RA combination (3:7) on matrix metalloproteinases and total collagen production was higher than that of MD or RA alone. These results demonstrated that the MD-RA combination (3:7) generated a strong synergistic effect against UVB-induced photoaging in Hs68 cells. Overall, our results provide scientific evidence to support the development of a new combination therapy for skin protection against UVB-induced photoaging through the synergistic interaction between MD and RA. These natural compounds are promising options for antiaging and skin protection in the cosmetic and pharmaceutical industries.

Effects of regular exercise on skin moisturizing function in adults

Among lifestyle habits, the effect of exercise on skin moisturizing function has not been studied. Therefore, we aimed to clarify the effect of regular exercise on skin moisturizing function. The participants were 30-64 years old with no history of skin diseases and no exercise habits at the start of the study. The intervention group (n=9) continued to exercise at least 600 Mets/week for 8 weeks, while the control group (n=28) followed conventional lifestyle habits for 8 weeks. Questionnaires regarding lifestyle habits were administered at the beginning and after 8 weeks, and skin moisturizing function (stratum corneum hydration: SC hydration, Trans-Epidermal Water Loss: TEWL) was measured. Analysis of covariance was performed using sex, age, and measurements at the start of the study as covariates. Analysis of covariance showed that after 8 weeks of "moderate" or "higher" exercise, there was a trend toward higher SC hydration in the intervention group compared to that in the control group (p=0.083, η2=0.10). There was no difference in TEWL after 8 weeks (p=0.864, η2=0.00). These results suggest that regular exercise may help maintain and improve skin moisturizing function.

Exploring the Potential of Using Marine-Derived Ingredients: From the Extraction to Cutting-Edge Cosmetics

The growing understanding and knowledge of the potential of marine species, as well as the application of "blue biotechnology" have been motivating new innovative solutions in cosmetics. It is widely noted that that marine species are important sources of compounds with several biological activities that are yet to be discovered. This review explores various biological properties of marine-derived molecules and briefly outlines the main extraction methods. Alongside these, it is well known the legislative and normative framework of cosmetics is increasingly being developed. In this research segment, there is a growing concern with sustainability. In this sense, "blue biotechnology", together with the use of invasive species or marine waste products to obtain new active ingredients, haven been emerging as innovative and sustainable solutions for the future's cosmetics industry. This review also examines the regulatory framework and focus on the recent advancements in "blue biotechnology" and its relevance to the sustainable development of innovative cosmetics.

Exploring Major Flavonoid Phytochemicals from Nelumbo nucifera Gaertn. as Potential Skin Anti-Aging Agents: In Silico and In Vitro Evaluations

Nelumbo nucifera Gaertn., an aquatic medicinal plant (Nelumbonaceae family), has a history of use in traditional medicine across various regions. Our previous study demonstrated the skin anti-aging potential of its stamen ethanolic extract by effectively inhibiting collagenase and tyrosinase enzymes. While the major constituents of this extract are well documented, there is a lack of research on the individual compounds' abilities to inhibit skin aging enzymes. Therefore, this study aimed to evaluate the anti-aging potential of the primary flavonoids found in N. nucifera using both in silico and in vitro approaches. Our initial step involved molecular docking to identify compounds with the potential to inhibit collagenase, elastase, and tyrosinase. Among the seven flavonoids studied, kaempferol-3-O-robinobioside (Kae-3-Rob) emerged as the most promising candidate, exhibiting the highest docking scores for three skin aging-related enzymes. Subsequent enzyme-based inhibition assays confirmed that Kae-3-Rob displayed robust inhibitory activity against collagenase (58.24 ± 8.27%), elastase (26.29 ± 7.16%), and tyrosinase (69.84 ± 6.07%). Furthermore, we conducted extensive 200-ns molecular dynamics (MD) simulations, revealing the stability of the complexes formed between Kae-3-Rob and each enzyme along the MD simulation time. MM/PBSA-based binding free energy calculations indicated the considerably stronger binding affinity of Kae-3-Rob for collagenase and tyrosinase compared to elastase, which was related to the greater percentage of hydrogen bond occupations. These computational findings were consistent with the relatively high inhibitory activity of Kae-3-Rob against collagenase and tyrosinase observed in our in vitro experiment. In conclusion, the results obtained from this comprehensive study suggest that Kae-3-Rob, a key flavonoid from N. nucifera, holds significant potential as a source of bioactive compounds for anti-aging cosmeceutical and other phytopharmaceutical application.

Single-cell analysis of human dermal fibroblasts isolated from a single male donor over 35 years

The aim of this study is to examine the effects of ageing on dermal fibroblast heterogeneity based on samples obtained from the same donor. We used a dermal fibroblast lineage (named ASF-4 cell lines) isolated from the inner side of the upper arm of a healthy male donor over a 35-year period, beginning at 36 years of age. Because clonal analysis of ASF-4 cell lines demonstrated a donor age-dependent loss of proliferative capacity and acquisition of senescent traits at the single-cell level, cultured cells frozen at passage 10 at ages 36 and 72 years were subjected to single-cell RNA sequencing. Transcriptome analysis revealed an increase in senescent fibroblasts and downregulation of genes associated with extracellular matrix remodelling with ageing. In addition, two putative differentiation pathways, with one endpoint consisting of senescent fibroblasts and the other without, were speculated using a pseudo-time analysis. Knockdown of the characteristic gene of the non-senescent fibroblast cluster endpoint, EFEMP2, accelerated cellular senescence. This was also confirmed in two other normal human dermal fibroblast cell lines. The detection of a common cellular senescence-related gene from single-donor analysis is notable. This study provides new insights into the behaviour of dermal fibroblasts during skin ageing.

The extract from Portulaca oleracea L. rehabilitates skin photoaging via adjusting miR-138-5p/Sirt1-mediated inflammation and oxidative stress

Photoaging is the main form of external skin aging, and ultraviolet radiation is the main cause. Long-term ultraviolet radiation can cause oxidative stress, inflammation, immune responses, and skin cell apoptosis. Therefore, it is necessary to explore active products from plants to treat skin photoaging. C57BL/6J mice were randomly divided into control, model, and purslane (Portulaca oleracea L.) extract-treated groups (150, 300, and 600 mg/kg). Ultraviolet (UV) radiation induces skin photoaging. Histopathological changes in the skin were observed by hematoxylin and eosin (H&E), Masson's trichrome, and toluidine staining. Levels of hydroxyproline (HYP), hyaluronic acid (HA), collagen I (COL1), catalase (CAT), malondialdehyde (MDA), and total superoxide dismutase (T-SOD) were measured. UVB-induced BJ and HaCaT cells were used to evaluate the effects of the crude extract. The effects of the purslane extract on miR-138-5p/Sirt1 signaling were then tested. The results showed that the purslane extract significantly increased cell viability in UVB-induced cells and decreased oxidative damage and inflammation. In addition, the extract affected the miR-138-5p levels in vivo and in vitro, and increased the levels of the target gene Sirt1. In UVB-induced cells, purslane extract significantly altered the expression levels of genes or proteins associated with miR-138-5p/Sirt1 signaling. Inflammation and oxidative damage were significantly enhanced when miR-138-5p was overexpressed, and the expression levels of the genes and proteins were reversed by the extract. Co-transfection with the miR-138-5p inhibitor and si-Sirt1 showed the same effects as the extract on the signal. Similar results have been observed in mice. In summary, purslane extract showed potent protective effects against skin photoaging by regulating the miR-138-5p/Sirt1 axis and should be used as a natural product for skin care.

LncRNA-miRNA-mRNA regulatory networks in skin aging and therapeutic potentials

Skin aging is a complex process influenced by intrinsic and extrinsic factors. Although dermatology offers advanced interventions, molecular mechanisms in skin aging remain limited. Competing endogenous RNAs (ceRNAs), a subset of coding or non-coding RNAs, regulate gene expression through miRNA competition. Several ceRNA networks investigated up to now offer insights into skin aging and wound healing. In skin aging, RP11-670E13.6-miR-663a-CDK4/CD6 delays senescence induced by UVB radiation. Meg3-miR-93-5p-epiregulin contributes to UVB-induced inflammatory skin damage. Predicted ceRNA networks reveal UVA-induced photoaging mechanisms. SPRR2C sequesters miRNAs in epidermal aging-associated alteration of calcium gradient. H19-miR-296-5p-IGF2 regulates dermal fibroblast senescence. PVT1-miR-551b-3p-AQP3 influences skin photoaging. And bioinformatics analyses identify critical genes and compounds for skin aging interventions. In skin wound healing, MALAT1-miR-124 aids wound healing by activating the Wnt/β-catenin pathway. Hair follicle MSC-derived H19 promotes wound healing by inhibiting pyroptosis. And the SAN-miR-143-3p-ADD3 network rejuvenates adipose-derived mesenchymal stem cells in wound healing. Thus, ceRNA networks provide valuable insights into the molecular underpinnings of skin aging and wound healing, offering potential therapeutic strategies for further investigation. This comprehensive review serves as a foundational platform for future research endeavors in these crucial areas of dermatology.

Promoting New Approach Methodologies (NAMs) for research on skin color changes in response to environmental stress factors: tobacco and air pollution

Aging is one of the most dynamic biological processes in the human body and is known to carry significant impacts on individuals' self-esteem. Skin pigmentation is a highly heritable trait made possible by complex, strictly controlled cellular and molecular mechanisms. Genetic, environmental and endocrine factors contribute to the modulation of melanin's amount, type and distribution in the skin layers. One of the hallmarks of extrinsic skin aging induced by environmental stress factors is the alteration of the constitutive pigmentation pattern clinically defined as senile lentigines and/or melasma or other pigmentary dyschromias. The complexity of pollutants and tobacco smoke as environmental stress factors warrants a thorough understanding of the mechanisms by which they impact skin pigmentation through repeated and long-term exposure. Pre-clinical and clinical studies demonstrated that pollutants are known to induce reactive oxygen species (ROS) or inflammatory events that lead directly or indirectly to skin hyperpigmentation. Another mechanistic direction is provided by Aryl hydrocarbon Receptors (AhR) which were shown to mediate processes leading to skin hyperpigmentation in response to pollutants by regulation of melanogenic enzymes and transcription factors involved in melanin biosynthesis pathway. In this context, we will discuss a diverse range of New Approach Methodologies (NAMs) capable to provide mechanistic insights of the cellular and molecular pathways involved in the action of environmental stress factors on skin pigmentation and to support the design of raw ingredients and formulations intended to counter their impact and of any subsequently needed clinical studies.

A green-based approach for noninvasive skin rejuvenation: Potential application of hyaluronic acid

Gradually, loss of skin elasticity and elastic properties occurs after 30 years of age and will be associated with several changes, including creating wrinkles, skin laxity (sagging skin), and skin blemishes. In general, people all over the world are looking for ways to keep their facial skin young over time. There are several strategies to skin rejuvenate, including invasive and non-invasive methods. However, invasive methods have less popularity than non-invasive methods due to their need for specialist physicians (medical expertise), localized neuropathic pains for patients, the prevalence and incidence of skin infections, and high-cost clinical services. In the meantime, skin hydration is one of the simplest non-invasive methods for skin rejuvenation, and HA, with anti-aging and skin collagen-stimulating properties, has been introduced as a natural skin moisturizing agent. Therefore, since this composition maintains facial skin moisture and radiance, and improves its elasticity, it has always been considered by experts and specialist physicians. On the other hand, due to its lipophilic properties, hydrophilic macromolecules containing HA cannot pass through the stratum corneum. However, they have temporary and superficial softening effects on the skin. Hence, some nanocarriers have been suggested to overcome this problem and develop the properties and positive influences of HA on skin rejuvenation. Therefore, the present study aimed to introduce some new non-invasive approaches in facial skin rejuvenation, including applying liposomes, niosomes, ethosomes, and ionic liquids, to transport HA into the inner and deeper layers of the skin, including Dermis. In this review article, we examine non-invasive methods using nanoparticles to deliver HA to the epidermis and dermis of the skin for skin rejuvenation.

Carbon dioxide-induced decrease in extracellular pH enhances the production of extracellular matrix components by upregulating TGF-β1 expression via CREB activation in human dermal fibroblasts

Mild acidification caused by transcutaneous administration of carbon dioxide (CO2 ) has been reported to improve some epidermal skin impairments, such as desquamation and inflammation; however, its effects on dermal tissue remain unclear. Here, we examined the effect and mechanism of mild acidity on extracellular matrix (ECM) protein production in normal human dermal fibroblasts (NHDFs). To achieve this, the skin permeability of CO2 and its effect on intradermal pH were evaluated by treating reconstructed human skin equivalents (HSEs) with a CO2 -containing formulation. Additionally, NHDFs were cultured in a pH-adjusted medium (pH 6.5). CO2 successfully permeated HSEs and reduced the intradermal pH. Decreased extracellular pH activated CREB, upregulated TGF-β1 expression, promoted the production of elastic and collagen fibres, and increased hyaluronan concentration in NHDFs. Additionally, the low pH-induced increase in TGF-β1 expression was attenuated via the RNAi-mediated suppression of the expression of CREB1 and proton-sensing G protein-coupled receptors (GPCRs), including GPR4 and GPR65. Moreover, low pH-induced CREB activation was suppressed by the inhibition of the cAMP/PKA and PLC/PKC signalling pathways. Taken together, a CO2 -induced decrease in intradermal pH may promote ECM production in NHDFs via the upregulation of TGF-β1 expression, which was mediated by the activation of the GPCR signalling pathway and CREB, indicating that CO2 could be used to treat ultraviolet radiation-induced photoaging, intrinsic ageing and ECM deterioration.

The Effect of Bacillus coagulans Induced Interactions among Intestinal Bacteria, Metabolites, and Inflammatory Molecules in Improving Natural Skin Aging

BACKGROUND

Lactic acid bacteria consumption serves several health benefits to humans. However, their effect on natural skin aging is still unclear.

METHODS

This study examined the effects of skin naturalization (particularly skin drying) by administering a spore-bearing lactic acid bacteria (Bacillus coagulans) in mice for 2 years.

RESULTS

B. coagulans administration improved the natural skin of mice and significantly increased proportions of the genera Bacteroides and Muribaculum, among other intestinal bacteria. As metabolites, increases in nicotinic acid, putrescin, and pantothenic acid levels and a decrease in choline levels were observed. Increased hyaluronic acid, interleukin-10, and M2 macrophage levels indicate aging-related molecules in the skin. Intestinal permeability was also suppressed. Thus, these changes together improved natural skin aging.

CONCLUSIONS

This study revealed that B. coagulans administration improved the natural skin aging in mice. This enhancement might be induced by the interaction of alterations in intestinal flora, metabolites, or inflammatory substances.

Combining Diamond-Tip Dermabrasion Treatments and Topical Skincare in Participants with Dry, Hyperpigmented, Photodamaged or Acne-Prone/Oily Facial Skin: A Clinical Usage Study

Purpose

An in-office diamond tip microdermabrasion device (DG) was designed to simultaneously exfoliate, extract, and infuse topical cosmetic serums into the skin to improve its appearance. Combining in-office procedures with take-home skincare may enhance treatment outcomes. This study aimed to assess the efficacy of a novel combination of DG treatments with a take-home cosmetic skincare regimen (DGR) to address facial dryness, hyperpigmentation, photodamage, or acne-prone/oily skin.

Patients and Methods

In this 12-week, open-label, single-center study, participants were assigned to 1 of 4 groups according to skin presentation: dry, hyperpigmented, photodamaged, or acne-prone/oily. All participants received 6 bi-weekly DG treatments with tailored DGR topical products. During the DG treatment, the dry, hyperpigmented, photodamaged, and acne-prone/oily groups received hydrating, brightening, antioxidant, and pore-clarifying serums, respectively. Study endpoints included investigator grading, standardized photography, and participant questionnaires.

Results

Sixteen participants aged 22 to 70 years with Fitzpatrick Skin Types I-V completed the study. Immediately after the first DG treatment, significant improvements in dryness, radiance, texture, photodamage, and fine lines were achieved (P<0.01). At 72 hours, significant improvements were maintained in all these parameters except fine lines (P<0.05). The DG and DGR combination provided significant long-term improvements at week 12 compared to baseline for dryness, radiance, texture, hyperpigmentation, photodamage, skin tone unevenness, and periocular/perioral fine lines (P<0.05).

Conclusion

The combination of DG and DGR showed significant immediate and long-term improvements in skin appearance. These results show that the DG and DGR combination is a well-tolerated and effective intervention to enhance different aspects of facial skin quality.

Photoprotective Effects of Processed Ginseng Leaf Administration against UVB-Induced Skin Damage in Hairless Mice

Although ginseng leaves contain a larger amount of ginsenosides than the roots, studies on the protective effect of oral administration of ginseng leaves against photoaging are lacking. Processed ginseng leaves (PGL) prepared by acid reaction to increase effective ginsenoside content showed higher levels of Rg3 (29.35 mg/g) and Rk1 (35.16 mg/g) than ginseng leaves (Rg3 (2.14 mg/g) and Rk1 (ND)), and ginsenosides Rg3 and Rk1 were evaluated as active ingredients that protected human keratinocytes against UVB-induced cell damage by increasing cell proliferation and decreasing matrix metalloproteinase (MMP)-2 and 9 secretion. Herein, the effect of oral PGL administration (50, 100, or 200 mg/kg, daily) against photoaging in HR-1 hairless mice was assessed by measuring wrinkle depth, epidermal thickness, and trans-epidermal water loss for 16 weeks. The PGL treatment group showed reduced skin wrinkles, inhibited MMP-2 and MMP-9 expression, and decreased IL-6 and cyclooxygenase-2 levels. These data suggest that oral PGL administration inhibits photoaging by inhibiting the expression of MMPs, which degrade collagen, and inhibiting cytokines, which induce inflammatory responses. These results reveal that ginseng leaves processed by acid reaction may serve as potential functional materials with anti-photoaging activities.

The in vitro effects of black soldier fly larvae (Hermitia illucens) oil as a high-functional active ingredient for inhibiting hyaluronidase, anti-oxidation benefits, whitening, and UVB protection

Objective: Larvae of Hermitia illucens, or black soldier fly larvae (BSFL), have been recognized for their high lipid yield with a remarkable fatty acid profile. BSFL oil (SFO) offers the added value of a low environmental footprint and a sustainable product. In this study, the characteristics and cosmetic-related activities of SFO were investigated and compared with rice bran oil, olive oil and krill oil which are commonly used in cosmetics and supplements. Methods: The physicochemical characteristics were determined including acid value, saponification value, unsaponifiable matter and water content of SFO. The fatty acid composition was determined using GC-MS equipped with TR-FAME. The in vitro antioxidant properties were determined using DPPH, FRAP and lipid peroxidation inhibition assays. Antihyaluronidase (anti-HAase) activity was measured by detecting enzyme activity and molecular docking of candidate compounds toward the HAase enzyme. The safety assessment towards normal human cells was determined using the MTT assay and the UVB protection upon UVB-irradiated fibroblasts was determined using the DCF-DA assay. The whitening effect of SFO was determined using melanin content inhibition. Results: SFO contains more than 60% polyunsaturated fatty acids followed by saturated fatty acids (up to 37%). The most abundant component found in SFO was linoleic acid (C18:2 n-6 cis). Multiple anti-oxidant mechanisms of SFO were discovered. In addition, SFO and krill oil prevented hyaluronic acid (HA) degradation via strong HAase inhibition comparable with the positive control, oleanolic acid. The molecular docking confirmed the binding interactions and molecular recognition of major free fatty acids toward HAase. Furthermore, SFO exhibited no cytotoxicity on primary human skin fibroblasts, HaCaT keratinocytes and PBMCs (IC50 values > 200 μg/mL). SFO possessed significant in-situ anti-oxidant activity in UVB-irradiated fibroblasts and the melanin inhibition activity as effective as well-known anti-pigmenting compounds (kojic acid and arbutin, p < 0.05). Conclusion: This study provides scientific support for various aspects of SFO. SFO can be considered an alternative oil ingredient in cosmetic products with potential implications for anti-skin aging, whitening and UVB protection properties, making it a potential candidate oil in the cosmetic industry.

A Cocktail-Based Formula for the Design of Nanosized Cosmeceuticals as Skincare and Anti-Age Products

Nasco and Bovale grape pomace extracts, alone or in association, were loaded in nanoemulsions tailored for cosmetic application, using Kolliphor®RH40 (kolliphor) as the synthetic surfactant, Olivem®1000 (olivem) as the natural one, and lecithin as the cosurfactant. Pink transparent or milky dispersions, as a function of the used extract and surfactant, were obtained to be used as cosmeceutical serum or milk. The sizes of the nanoemulsion droplets were small (≈77 nm with kolliphor and ≈141 nm with olivem), homogenously dispersed (~0.24 with kolliphor and ~0.16 with olivem), highly negatively charged (≈-43 mV irrespective of the used surfactant) and their stability either on storage or under stressing conditions was affected by the used extract and surfactant. Formulations protected the extracts from the degradation caused by UV exposition, were biocompatible against keratinocytes, protected them against oxidative damages induced using hydrogen peroxide and inhibited the release of nitrite induced in macrophages using the lipopolysaccharide inflammatory stimulus. The overall results underlined the key role played by the composition of the formula to achieve a suitable cosmeceutical for skin care but even for the prevention of premature aging and chronic damages caused by the stressing conditions.

Krill Oil's Protective Benefits against Ultraviolet B-Induced Skin Photoaging in Hairless Mice and In Vitro Experiments

Krill oil (KO) shows promise as a natural marine-derived ingredient for improving skin health. This study investigated its antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, anti-wrinkle, and moisturizing effects on skin cells and UVB-induced skin photoaging in hairless mice. In vitro assays on HDF, HaCaT, and B16/F10 cells, as well as in vivo experiments on 60 hairless mice were conducted. A cell viability assay, diphenyl-1-picryhydrazyl (DPPH) radical scavenging activity test, elastase inhibition assay, procollagen content test, MMP-1 inhibition test, and hyaluronan production assay were used to experiment on in vitro cell models. Mice received oral KO administration (100, 200, or 400 mg/kg) once a day for 15 weeks and UVB radiation three times a week. L-Ascorbic acid (L-AA) was orally administered at 100 mg/kg once daily for 15 weeks, starting from the initial ultraviolet B (UVB) exposures. L-AA administration followed each UVB session (0.18 J/cm2) after one hour. In vitro, KO significantly countered UVB-induced oxidative stress, reduced wrinkles, and prevented skin water loss by enhancing collagen and hyaluronic synthesis. In vivo, all KO dosages showed dose-dependent inhibition of oxidative stress-induced inflammatory photoaging-related skin changes. Skin mRNA expressions for hyaluronan synthesis and collagen synthesis genes also increased dose-dependently after KO treatment. Histopathological analysis confirmed that krill oil (KO) ameliorated the damage caused by UVB-irradiated skin tissues. The results imply that KO could potentially act as a positive measure in diminishing UVB-triggered skin photoaging and address various skin issues like wrinkles and moisturization when taken as a dietary supplement.

Semen Ziziphus jujube Saponins Protects HaCaT Cells against UV Damage and Alleviates the Aging of Caenorhabditis elegans

The role of Semen Ziziphus jujube saponins in sedative and hypnosis has attracted much attention. The study aimed to investigate its possible UV damage protection and anti-aging effects. Total saponins (SZR I) and purified saponins (SZR II) were analyzed and compared by infrared spectroscopy and high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC). The protective effects of SZR I, SZR II, and their three monomers on HaCaT cells damaged by UV were studied, and their anti-aging activities were observed by Caenorhabditis elegans with paraquat-induced oxidative stress. The results showed that SZR I and SZR II differ in chemical composition but both have the same three monomers. The cell survival rate treated with SZR I and SZR II at a concentration of 400 μg/mL increased by 34.45 and 88.98%, respectively, indicating that they could promote the proliferation of UVB-damaged HaCaT cells. Jujuboside A, Jujuboside B, and spinosin from the saponins exhibited similar effects on UVB-damaged HaCaT cells. SZR I and SZR II had little effect on reproductive performance but could delay the senescence caused by heat and oxidative stress of the C. elegans model. These results provide useful data that Semen Z. jujube saponin is a potential natural product with UV damage protection and anti-aging characteristics.

Antioxidant and Enzyme Inhibitory Potential of Streptomyces sp. G-18 Grown in Various Media

Streptomyces are bacteria well known for producing bioactive secondary metabolites which are commonly found in diverse habitats. The biosynthesis of metabolites from Streptomyces is influenced by various factors such as the growth medium, environmental conditions, and gene regulation. This study aimed to investigate the influence of different growth media on biomass production and the antioxidant and enzyme inhibitory potential of a crude extract obtained from Streptomyces sp. G-18 isolated from high altitudinal soil of Nepal. The highest dry weight growth was observed in R2YE medium (184 mg/L), followed by R5 (144 mg/L), YEME (38 mg/L), and R5M media (30 mg/L). The crude extract showed notable antioxidant activities against free radicals. The highest alpha-amylase inhibition was observed in the R2YE medium, and worthy lipase and tyrosinase inhibition was observed in the YEME medium. However, only the R2YE medium exhibited inhibitory potential against elastase and acetylcholinesterase, while crude extracts from R5, YEME, and R5 modified did not show any such activity. Overall, our findings suggest that the production of bioactive secondary metabolites in Streptomyces sp. G-18 was significantly influenced by the growth medium. This strain may be a promising source of enzyme inhibitors with potential applications in the pharmaceutical and cosmetic industries.

Revealing the Beauty Potential of Grape Stems: Harnessing Phenolic Compounds for Cosmetics

Grape stems have emerged as a promising natural ingredient in the cosmetics industry due to their abundance of phenolic compounds, known for their antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. These compounds have shown great potential in promoting skin health, fighting signs of aging, and shielding against environmental stressors. With high concentrations of resveratrol, flavonoids, and tannins, grape stems have garnered attention from cosmetic scientists. Research has indicated that phenolic compounds extracted from grape stems possess potent antioxidant abilities, effectively combating free radicals that accelerate aging. Moreover, these compounds have demonstrated the capacity to shield the skin from UV damage, boost collagen production, and enhance skin elasticity. Cosmetic formulations incorporating grape stem extracts have displayed promising results in addressing various skin concerns, including reducing wrinkles, fine lines, and age spots, leading to a more youthful appearance. Additionally, grape stem extracts have exhibited anti-inflammatory properties, soothing irritated skin and diminishing redness. Exploring the potential of grape stem phenolic compounds for cosmetics paves the way for sustainable and natural beauty products. By harnessing the beauty benefits of grape stems, the cosmetics industry can provide effective and eco-friendly solutions for consumers seeking natural alternatives. Ongoing research holds the promise of innovative grape stem-based formulations that could revolutionize the cosmetics market, fully unlocking the potential of these extraordinary botanical treasures.

Environmental Air Pollutants Affecting Skin Functions with Systemic Implications

The increase in air pollution worldwide represents an environmental risk factor that has global implications for the health of humans worldwide. The skin of billions of people is exposed to a mixture of harmful air pollutants, which can affect its physiology and are responsible for cutaneous damage. Some polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons are photoreactive and could be activated by ultraviolet radiation (UVR). Therefore, such UVR exposure would enhance their deleterious effects on the skin. Air pollution also affects vitamin D synthesis by reducing UVB radiation, which is essential for the production of vitamin D3, tachysterol, and lumisterol derivatives. Ambient air pollutants, photopollution, blue-light pollution, and cigarette smoke compromise cutaneous structural integrity, can interact with human skin microbiota, and trigger or exacerbate a range of skin diseases through various mechanisms. Generally, air pollution elicits an oxidative stress response on the skin that can activate the inflammatory responses. The aryl hydrocarbon receptor (AhR) can act as a sensor for small molecules such as air pollutants and plays a crucial role in responses to (photo)pollution. On the other hand, targeting AhR/Nrf2 is emerging as a novel treatment option for air pollutants that induce or exacerbate inflammatory skin diseases. Therefore, AhR with downstream regulatory pathways would represent a crucial signaling system regulating the skin phenotype in a Yin and Yang fashion defined by the chemical nature of the activating factor and the cellular and tissue context.

Antioxidant Effects of Catechins (EGCG), Andrographolide, and Curcuminoids Compounds for Skin Protection, Cosmetics, and Dermatological Uses: An Update

Here we have chosen to highlight the main natural molecules extracted from Camellia sinensis, Andrographis paniculata, and Curcuma longa that may possess antioxidant activities of interest for skin protection. The molecules involved in the antioxidant process are, respectively, catechins derivatives, in particular, EGCG, andrographolide, and its derivatives, as well as various curcuminoids. These plants are generally used as beverages for Camellia sinensis (tea tree), as dietary supplements, or as spices. The molecules they contain are known for their diverse therapeutic activities, including anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, anti-cancer, antidiabetic, and dermatological treatment. Their common antioxidant activities and therapeutic applications are widely documented, but their use in cosmetics is more recent. We will see that the use of pharmacomodulated derivatives, the addition of co-antioxidants, and the use of various formulations enable better skin penetration and greater ingredient stability. In this review, we will endeavor to compile the cosmetic uses of these natural molecules of interest and the various structural modulations reported with the aim of improving their bioavailability as well as establishing their different mechanisms of action.

Therapeutic Applications of Plant-Derived Extracellular Vesicles as Antioxidants for Oxidative Stress-Related Diseases

Extracellular vesicles (EVs) composed of a lipid bilayer are released from various cell types, including animals, plants, and microorganisms, and serve as important mediators of cell-to-cell communication. EVs can perform a variety of biological functions through the delivery of bioactive molecules, such as nucleic acids, lipids, and proteins, and can also be utilized as carriers for drug delivery. However, the low productivity and high cost of mammalian-derived EVs (MDEVs) are major barriers to their practical clinical application where large-scale production is essential. Recently, there has been growing interest in plant-derived EVs (PDEVs) that can produce large amounts of electricity at a low cost. In particular, PDEVs contain plant-derived bioactive molecules such as antioxidants, which are used as therapeutic agents to treat various diseases. In this review, we discuss the composition and characteristics of PDEVs and the appropriate methods for their isolation. We also discuss the potential use of PDEVs containing various plant-derived antioxidants as replacements for conventional antioxidants.

Enhanced Cosmeceutical Potentials of the Oil from Gryllus bimaculatus de Geer by Nanoemulsions

Purpose

This study aimed to extract the oil from Gryllus bimaculatus de Geer, evaluate its potential for cosmeceutical applications, and develop nanoemulsions to promote the cosmeceutical capabilities of the oil.

Methods

G. bimaculatus oil was produced by the cold pressing method. Its fatty acid compositions were assessed by fatty acid methyl ester/gas chromatographic-mass spectrometry. The antioxidant activities of the oil were investigated in terms of radical scavengers, reducing power, and lipid peroxidation inhibition. The whitening effects were investigated through anti-tyrosinase activities, whilst the anti-aging effects were investigated through inhibition against collagenase, elastase, and hyaluronidase. The irritant effects were investigated by the hen's egg chorio-allantoic membrane test and the cytotoxicity assay in immortalized human epidermal keratinocytes and human foreskin fibroblast cells. The nanoemulsions were developed, characterized, and evaluated for their stability and cosmeceutical properties.

Results

G. bimaculatus oil, rich in linoleic acid (31.08 ± 0.00%), oleic acid (30.44 ± 0.01%), palmitic acid (24.80 ± 0.01%), and stearic acid (7.61 ± 0.00%), demonstrated promising cosmeceutical properties in terms of antioxidant, anti-tyrosinase, and anti-skin ageing activities. Besides, the oil was safe since it induced no irritation or cytotoxicity. G. bimaculatus oil was successfully developed into nanoemulsions, and F1, composed of 1% w/w G. bimaculatus oil, 1.12% w/w polysorbate 80, 0.88% w/w sorbitan oleate, and 97% w/w DI water, had the smallest internal droplet size (53.8 ± 0.6 nm), the narrowest polydispersity index (0.129 ± 0.010), and a pronounced zeta potential (-28.23 ± 2.32 mV). All cosmeceutical activities of the oil were significantly enhanced after incorporation in the nanoemulsions (p < 0.001), particularly the whitening effects.

Conclusion

G. bimaculatus oil nanoemulsion was an attractive cosmeceutical formulation with potent whitening effects, along with antioxidant and anti-aging properties. Therefore, nanoemulsion technology was found to be an effective strategy for improving the cosmeceutical properties of G. bimaculatus oil.

Quantitative nanohistology of aging dermal collagen

The skin is the largest organ in the body and is essential for protecting us from environmental stressors such as UV radiation, pollution, and pathogens. As we age, our skin undergoes complex changes that can affect its function, appearance, and health. These changes result from intrinsic (chronological) and extrinsic (environmental) factors that can cause damage to the skin's cells and extracellular matrix. As higher-resolution microscopical techniques, such as Atomic Force Microscopy (AFM), are being deployed to support histology, it is possible to explore the biophysical properties of the dermal scaffold's constituents, such as the collagen network. In this study, we demonstrate the use of our AFM-based quantitative nanohistology, performed directly on unfixed cryosections of 30 donors (female, Caucasian), to differentiate between dermal collagen from different age groups and anatomical sites. The initial 420 (10 × 10 μm²) Atomic Force Microscopy images were segmented into 42,000 (1 × 1 μm²) images before being classified according to four pre-defined empirical collagen structural biomarkers to quantify the structural heterogeneity of the dermal collagen. These markers include interfibrillar gap formation, undefined collagen structure, and registered or unregistered dense collagen fibrillar network with evident D-banding. The structural analysis was also complemented by extensive nanoindentation (∼1,000 curves) performed on individual fibrils from each section, yielding 30,000 indentation curves for this study. Principal Component Analysis was used to reduce the complexity of high-dimensional datasets. The % prevalence of the empirical collagen structural biomarkers between the papillary and reticular dermis for each section proves determinant in differentiating between the donors as a function of their age or the anatomical site (cheek or breast). A case of abnormal biological aging validated our markers and nanohistology approach. This case also highlighted the difference between chronological and biological aging regarding dermal collagen phenotyping. However, quantifying the impact of chronic and pathological conditions on the structure and function of collagen at the sub-micron level remains challenging and lengthy. By employing tools such as the Atomic Force Microscope as presented here, it is possible to start evaluating the complexity of the dermal matrix at the nanoscale and start identifying relevant collagen morphology which could be used toward histopathology standards.

Hydrangea serrata Hot Water Extract and Its Major Ingredient Hydrangenol Improve Skin Moisturization and Wrinkle Conditions via AP-1 and Akt/PI3K Pathway Upregulation

Hydrangea serrata is a plant grown in Korea and Japan with a particular natural compound, hydrangenol. H. serrata has been researched for its anti-fungal properties, and ability to attenuate allergies and promote muscle growth. Its ability to reduce skin dryness is poorly understood. For that reason, we investigated whether H. serrata hot water extracts (Hs-WE) can moisturize keratinocytes. In clinical studies (Approval Code: GIRB-21929-NY and approval Date: 5 October 2021), skin wrinkles and skin moisturizing levels were improved in subjects applying 0.5% Hs-WE compared to the placebo group. We confirmed the components of Hs-WE from the LC/MS-MS analysis. Hs-WE and hydrangenol did not show cytotoxicity in HaCaT cells at all concentrations. Cell growth was also promoted by Hs-WE (5-20 µg/mL) and hydrangenol (15-60 µM) in a wound healing assay. Skin moisturizing factors were upregulated by the presence of Hs-WE or hydrangenol, and the hyaluronidases (HYAL) were inhibited at the mRNA level. Meanwhile, COL1A1 was increased by the presence of Hs-WE or hydrangenol. MAPK, AP-1, and Akt/PI3k signaling proteins, which are associated with cell proliferation and moisturizing factors, were increased by the administration of Hs-WE and hydrangenol. Has-1, 2, and 3 levels were enhanced via JNK when using the inhibitors of MAPK proteins and Hs-WE and hydrangenol, respectively. Taken together, Hs-WE could be used as cosmeceutical materials for improving skin conditions.

The Effect of Oleanolic Acid and Its Four New Semisynthetic Derivatives on Human MeWo and A375 Melanoma Cell Lines

This study aimed to synthesize four new semisynthetic derivatives of natural oleanolic acid (OA) and, based on an analysis of their cytotoxic and anti-proliferative effects against human MeWo and A375 melanoma cell lines, select those with anti-cancer potential. We also screened the treatment time with the concentration of all four derivatives. We synthesized oxime 2 and performed its acylation with carboxylic acids into new derivatives 3a, 3b, 3c and 3d according to the methods previously described. Colorimetric MTT and SRB assays were used to measure the anti-proliferative and cytotoxic activity of OA and its derivatives 3a, 3b, 3c and 3d against melanoma cells. Selected concentrations of OA, the derivatives, and different time periods of incubation were used in the study. The data were analyzed statistically. The present results revealed the possible anti-proliferative and cytotoxic potential of two selected OA derivatives 3a and 3b, on A375 and MeWo melanoma cells, especially at concentrations of 50 μM and 100 μM at 48 h of incubation (p < 0.05). Further studies will be necessary to analyze the proapoptotic and anti-cancer activities of 3a and 3b against skin and other cancer cells. The bromoacetoxyimine derivative (3b) of OA morpholide turned out to be the most effective against the tested cancer cells.

Investigation on the Biological Safety and Activity of a Gluconolactone-Based Lotion for Dermocosmetic Application

(1) Background: Cosmeceuticals are formulas enriched with active ingredients that exert efficacy on different skin molecular targets. (2) Methods: Cell viability and the absence of potential irritant risk were evaluated on keratinocytes (HaCaT), fibroblasts (NHDF), adipocytes (3T3-L1), sebocytes (PCi-SEB_CAU) and reconstructed human epidermis (RHE), respectively. Several treatments were performed to evaluate the ability of the lotion to stimulate the production of collagen and elastin, stimulate the differentiation of keratinocytes and reduce the number of senescent cells following UVB stimulation. In addition, the modulation of genes involved in the production, storage and accumulation of sebum were investigated. (3) Results: The results obtained demonstrated the biosafety of the formula in all cell lines tested. The 24-h treatment with non-cytotoxic concentrations determined an increase in the expression of the collagen (COL1A1), elastin (ELN) and involucrin (IVL) genes, while a reduction of peroxisome proliferator-activated receptor-gamma (PPARγ) gene expression and a reduction of SA-βgal-positive cells were found. Moreover, the treatment did not interfere with normal steroid 5-alpha reductase (5RDA3) gene expression levels. (4) Conclusions: Data collected demonstrated the biosafety of the lotion, the non-comedogenic property and a multi targets anti-aging effect. In particular, data collected on the booster lotion make it a valid way to counteract the pore dilatation aging related.

Bioproduction and applications of aldobionic acids with a focus on maltobionic and cellobionic acid

Aldobionic acids are sugar acids which consist of a disaccharide with an anomeric acid group. The most famous is lactobionic acid (LBA). LBA is used in many applications such as food and beverages, pharmaceuticals and medicine, cosmetics or chemical processes. During the last decade, all these industries are observing a shift of consumer preferences towards plant-based options. Thus, the biotechnological industry is trying to replace the animal-derived LBA. Maltobionic acid (MBA) and cellobionic acid (CBA) are two stereoisomers of LBA which have emerged as vegan alternatives. However, MBA and CBA face different obstacles related to their industrial production. While traditionally used electrochemical or chemical catalysis often rely on cost intensive and/or hazardous catalysts, novel production methods with microorganisms are still poorly studied. In the first part, this paper discusses both alternatives in terms of their characteristics and applications. In the second part, it reviews the long-studied chemical production and the novel bioproduction methods, which are based on enzymatic and microbial systems. This review concludes with a discussion of future work needed to bring their production to the industrial scale.

The Cytoprotective Effects of Baicalein on H2O2-Induced ROS by Maintaining Mitochondrial Homeostasis and Cellular Tight Junction in HaCaT Keratinocytes

Reactive oxygen species (ROS) promote oxidative stress, which directly causes molecular damage and disrupts cellular homeostasis, leading to skin aging. Baicalein, a flavonoid compound isolated from the root of Scutellaria baicalensis Georgi has antioxidant, anticancer, anti-inflammatory, and other medicinal properties. We aimed to investigate the protective effect of baicalein on the disruption of tight junctions and mitochondrial dysfunction caused by H₂O₂-induced oxidative stress in HaCaT keratinocytes. The cells were pretreated with 20 and 40 µM baicalein followed by treatment with 500 µM H₂O₂. The results revealed that baicalein exerted antioxidant effects by reducing intracellular ROS production. Baicalein attenuated the degradation of the ECM (MMP-1 and Col1A1) and the disruption of tight junctions (ZO-1, occludin, and claudin-4). In addition, baicalein prevented mitochondrial dysfunction (PGC-1α, PINK1, and Parkin) and restored mitochondrial respiration. Furthermore, baicalein regulated the expression of antioxidant enzymes, including NQO-1 and HO-1, via the Nrf2 signaling pathway. Our data suggest that the cytoprotective effects of baicalein against H₂O₂-induced oxidative stress may be mediated through the Nrf2/NQO-1/HO-1 signaling pathway. In conclusion, baicalein exerts potent antioxidant effects against H₂O₂-induced oxidative stress in HaCaT keratinocytes by maintaining mitochondrial homeostasis and cellular tight junctions.

The role of mitochondrial quality surveillance in skin aging: Focus on mitochondrial dynamics, biogenesis and mitophagy

The skin is the largest organ of the human body and the first line of defense against environmental hazards. Many factors, including internal factors such as natural aging and external factors such as ultraviolet radiation and air pollution, can lead to skin aging. Mitochondria provide sufficient energy to maintain the high-speed turnover capacity of the skin, so the quality control of mitochondria plays an indispensable role in this process. Mitochondrial dynamics, mitochondrial biogenesis and mitophagy are the key steps in mitochondrial quality surveillance. They are coordinated to maintain mitochondrial homeostasis and restore damaged mitochondrial function. All of the mitochondrial quality control processes are related to skin aging caused by various factors. Therefore, fine-tuning regulation of the above process is of great significance to the skin aging problem that needs to be solved urgently. This article mainly reviews the physiological and environmental factors causing skin aging, the effects of mitochondrial dynamics, mitochondrial biogenesis and mitophagy on skin aging, as well as their specific regulatory mechanisms. Finally, mitochondrial biomarkers for diagnosis of skin aging, and therapeutic approaches of skin aging via mitochondrial quality control were illustrated.