Formulation effects of topical emulsions on transdermal and dermal delivery

Effect of vehicle on the in vitro penetration and metabolism of genistein and daidzein in ex vivo skin explants and the Phenion full-thickness skin model

In a read-across assessment of the safety of genistein and daidzein in cosmetic products, additional information was required to account for differences in their systemic exposure after topical application in a typical body lotion formulation. Therefore, we measured the penetration and metabolism of two doses (3 and 30 nmoles/cm2) of genistein and daidzein applied in ethanol and in a body formulation to fresh pig skin, fresh and frozen human skin, and PhenionFT models. Both chemicals readily penetrated all skin models when applied in ethanol. The same sulfate and glucuronide metabolites were formed in fresh pig skin, fresh human skin, and PhenionFT models, which also all demonstrated that (a) these pathways could be saturated between 3 and 30 nmoles/cm2 and (b) the extent of metabolism of daidzein was lower than genistein. Although the relative amounts of radiolabeled chemical in human skin and medium compartments were altered by freezing, their overall bioavailability was not affected. The greatest impact on the bioavailability and distribution of both chemicals was observed when they were applied in the formulation. Most of the dose applied in the formulation was retained on the skin surface, especially at 30 nmoles/cm2 (60%-90%), resulting in much lower amounts in the medium and/or skin. In conclusion, all four skin models demonstrated first-pass metabolism of genistein and daidzein and a marked alteration in their disposition by applying them in a body lotion formulation. This supports the use of fresh pig skin and PhenionFT models as alternatives to human skin for investigating skin metabolism and formulation effects for these two chemicals. The results were used to develop the dermal module of a PBPK model and dose setting for organ-on-chip experiments. They could also be used to refine internal exposure estimates in regulatory safety assessments.

Novel delivery systems for phages and lysins in the topical management of wound infections: a narrative review

Currently, multidrug-resistant (MDR) bacterial wound infections (WIs) are an extremely challenging clinical problem for physicians. Recently, compared to traditional single liquid delivery drugs, the study of five novel drug delivery systems (i.e., hydrogel, liposomes, electrospun fibers, nanoparticles and nanoemulsion) for phages and their encoded lysins in WI management has become a hot topic. To assess the current landscape of these emerging technologies, we conducted a comprehensive literature search across PubMed, Scopus and Web of Science up to July 2024, using terms such as "phage," "lysin," "wound," "hydrogel," "liposomes," "fibers," "nanoparticles," and "nanoemulsion." The criteria included original studies of five novel delivery systems for phages and lysins in WI management. The findings highlighted the positive effects of the five novel delivery systems for phages and lysins in WI management, significantly reducing wound bacterial populations, and accelerating healing at the injury site. However, the available literature on novel delivery systems for phages and lysins remains limited, particularly for lysins. In conclusion, the application of novel drug delivery systems for phages and lysins showed great potential in combating MDR bacterial WIs.

N-Glycidyl d-tryptophan ether-based ointment with anti-infective, anti-inflammatory, and wound-healing properties

Anti-infective hydrogel is an emerging and innovative material used as an antibacterial ointment or to coat medical devices. Here, we synthesized a novel derivative of N-glycidyl d-tryptophan ether using the d-isoform of tryptophan through a ring-opening polymerization reaction. The compound was characterized using gel permeation chromatography (GPC), HPLC, 1H NMR, 13C NMR, MALDI-TOF-MS, and FTIR spectroscopy. The results demonstrated its antibacterial activity by inhibiting quorum sensing and subsequent biofilm formation. In vivo studies revealed the ability of the compound to promote wound healing by reducing inflammatory cytokine levels, such as tumor necrosis factor alpha, interleukin-1β, and IL-6. Moreover, the compound showed antioxidant activity by scavenging the DPPH radical due to the presence of polymeric hydroxyl acidic protons near the nitrogen. Since inflammation prompted ROS-initiated DNA strand breaks, it was also confirmed that the compound could reduce DNA strand break accumulation, as demonstrated through testing against bleomycin-induced DNA strand break accumulation. Therefore, the synthesized compound, which could be used as a base material for ointments, was found to be effective for antibacterial and wound healing actions by (a) inhibiting biofilm formation by bacteria, (b) reducing the expression of inflammatory cytokines, and (c) preventing the accumulation of DNA strand breaks through free-radical scavenging activity.

Understanding Microemulsions and Nanoemulsions in (Trans)Dermal Delivery

Continuously explored in pharmaceuticals, microemulsions and nanoemulsions offer drug delivery opportunities that are too significant to ignore, namely safe delivery of clinically relevant drug doses across biological membranes. Their effectiveness as drug vehicles in mucosal and (trans)dermal delivery is evident from the volume of published literature. Commonly, their ability to enhance skin permeation is attributed to dispersion size, a characteristic closely related to solubilization capacity. However, the literature falls short on distinctions between microemulsions and nanoemulsions for definitions, behavior, or specific differences in their mechanisms of action in (trans)dermal delivery. The focus is typically on surfactant/cosurfactant ratio and droplet size but the role of mesostructures or the effect of cosolvent (Csol), oil (O) or water (W) on permeation profile remain poorly explained. Towards a deeper understanding of these vehicles in (trans)dermal drug delivery, this review begins with their conceptual and practical distinctions before delving into the published works for less obvious but potentially important underlying mechanisms; notably composition and the competitive positioning of system constituents in the resulting microstructures and subsequent effect(s) these may have on skin structures and drug permeability. For practical purposes, this review focuses on formulation systems based on ternary diagrams with commonly accepted non-ionic surfactants, cosurfactants, cosolvents, and oils used in pharmaceutical applications.

Opportunities of topical drug products in a changing dermatological landscape

Despite the prevalence and the impact on quality of life of dermatological indications, drug products to treat such conditions have rarely been blockbusters. The prevailing perception of a limited commercial potential of dermatological drug products has restricted innovation and encouraged a more conservative development approach. For example, the focus was on repurposing/reformulation of existing active pharmaceutical ingredients (APIs) specifically for the topical delivery route. However, the situation is quite different today catalyzed in part by the blockbuster success of Dupixent (dupilumab), the first monoclonal antibody treatment for atopic dermatitis which has been approved by the US Food and Drug Administration (US FDA) in 2017. Dupixent's success not only encouraged the development of other biologics but also inspired the (re-)development of new dermal drug products that can reap the many benefits of topical administration. We have also witnessed a shift toward outsourcing development efforts (and associated risks) towards small- to mid-size pharmaceutical companies which often require support of contract research and development/manufacturing organizations (CRO and CDMO). Such trends also emphasize the need of greater expertise in topical formulation design, as well as associated commercial and regulatory considerations. Today, we believe that topical drug products remain not only an essential but also commercially viable class of dermatological therapeutics. In this opinion article, we will address the challenges as well as opportunities of coherent development strategies in the current market environment, formulation innovations of topical drug products and technological advances to facilitate rational topical drug formulation development.

Development and evaluation of nanostructured systems for cutaneous delivery of H2S-releasing corticosteroids for skin inflammatory diseases

Psoriasis is an immune-mediated chronic inflammatory disease that causes major psychosocial impact. Topical corticosteroids represent the standard pharmacological treatment for mild-to-moderate disease, but their local and systemic adverse effects reinforce the need for treatment innovations. Here we developed lamellar phase-based formulations for topical delivery of a hybrid dexamethasone and hydrogen sulfide (H2S) donor molecule (Dexa-TBZ), aiming to potentiate the effects of the glucocorticoid with H2S. They offer the possibility to obtain precursor formulations free of water that originate lamellar phases upon water addition, preventing drug hydrolysis during storage. Two groups of formulations were developed varying the surfactants and oil phase types and content. Systems containing 20 and 70 % of water formed, respectively, bulk lamellar phase and a more fluid formulation consisting of dispersed droplets (< 1000 nm) stabilized by lamellar phase. Both presented pseudoplastic behavior. Dexa-TBZ was incorporated at 1 %, remaining stable for 8 h. Drug content decreased to ∼80 % after 1 week in precursor formulations free of water, but remained stable after that. Without causing changes to the cutaneous barrier function ex vivo or to the histological structure of the skin in vivo, the formulation containing phosphatidylcholine as surfactant and 70 % of water promoted 1.8- and 2.7-fold increases in Dexa-TBZ penetration in the stratum corneum and epidermis+dermis, respectively, compared to a control solution, demonstrating their potential applicability as topical delivery systems.

High precision acoustofluidic synthesis of stable, biocompatible water-in-water emulsions

Water-in-water (w/w) emulsions, comprising aqueous droplets within another continuous aqueous phase, rely on a low interfacial tension for stability. Thus far, it has been challenging to control their size and stability without the use of stabilizers. In this study, we introduce a microfluidic technique that addresses these challenges, producing stable w/w emulsions with precisely controlled size and uniformity. Results shows that using an acoustically actuated microfluidic mixer, PEG, Dextran, and alginate solutions (84.66 mPa.s viscosity difference) were homogenized rapidly, forming uniformly distributed w/w emulsions stabilized in alginate gels. The emulsion size, uniformity, and shear sensitivity can be tuned by modifying the alginate concentration. Biocompatibility was evaluated by monitoring the viability of kidney cells in the presence of emulsions and gels. In conclusion, this study not only showed emulsion formation with a high mixing efficiency exceeding 90 % for all viscosities, actuated at an optimized frequency of 1.064 MHz, but also demonstrated that an aqueous, solvent, and emulsifier-free composition exhibited remarkable biocompatibility, holding promise for precise drug delivery, cosmetics, and food applications.

Niacinamide: a review on dermal delivery strategies and clinical evidence

Niacinamide, an active form of vitamin B3, is recognised for its significant dermal benefits including skin brightening, anti-ageing properties and the protection of the skin barrier. Its widespread incorporation into cosmetic products, ranging from cleansers to serums, is attributed to its safety profile and proven efficacy. Recently, topical niacinamide has also been explored for other pharmaceutical applications, including skin cancers. Therefore, a fundamental understanding of the skin permeation behaviour of niacinamide becomes crucial for formulation design. Given the paucity of a comprehensive review on this aspect, we provide insights into the mechanisms of action of topically applied niacinamide and share the current strategies used to enhance its skin permeation. This review also consolidates clinical evidence of topical niacinamide for its cosmeceutical uses and as treatment for some skin disorders, including dermatitis, acne vulgaris and actinic keratosis. We also emphasise the current exploration and perspectives on the delivery designs of topical niacinamide, highlighting the potential development of formulations focused on enhancing skin permeation, particularly for clinical benefits.

Formulation and Ex Vivo Evaluation of Ivermectin Within Different Nano-Drug Delivery Vehicles for Transdermal Drug Delivery

Background/Objectives: Ivermectin gained widespread attention as the "miracle drug" during the coronavirus disease 2019 (COVID-19) pandemic. Its inclusion in the 21st World Health Organization (WHO) List of Essential Medicines is attributed to its targeted anti-helminthic response, high efficacy, cost-effectiveness and favorable safety profile. Since the late 2000s, this bio-inspired active pharmaceutical ingredient (API) gained renewed interest for its diverse therapeutic capabilities. However, producing ivermectin formulations does remain challenging due to its poor water solubility, resulting in low bioavailability after oral administration. Therefore, the transdermal drug delivery of ivermectin was considered to overcome these challenges, which are observed after oral administration. Methods: Ivermectin was incorporated in a nano-emulsion, nano-emulgel and a colloidal suspension as ivermectin-loaded nanoparticles. The nano-drug delivery vehicles were optimized, characterized and evaluated through in vitro membrane release studies, ex vivo skin diffusion studies and tape-stripping to determine whether ivermectin was successfully released from its vehicle and delivered transdermally and/or topically throughout the skin. This study concluded with cytotoxicity tests using the methyl thiazolyl tetrazolium (MTT) and neutral red (NR) assays on both human immortalized epidermal keratinocytes (HaCaT) and human immortalized dermal fibroblasts (BJ-5ta). Results: Ivermectin was successfully released from each vehicle, delivered transdermally and topically throughout the skin and demonstrated little to no cytotoxicity at concentrations that diffused through the skin. Conclusions: The type of nano-drug delivery vehicle used to incorporate ivermectin influences its delivery both topically and transdermally, highlighting the dynamic equilibrium between the vehicle, the API and the skin.

Green preparation and evaluation of the anti-psoriatic activity of vesicular elastic nanocarriers of kojic acid from Aspergillus oryzae N12: Repurposing of a dermo-cosmetic lead

Psoriasis is a skin disorder characterized by impaired epidermal differentiation that is regularly treated by systemic drugs with undesirable side effects. Based on its anti-inflammatory, antiproliferative and anti-melanoma attributes, the fungal metabolite kojic acid represents an attractive candidate for anti-psoriatic research. The present work aims to investigate an efficient topical bio-friendly vesicular system loaded with kojic acid isolated from Aspergillus oryzae as an alternative way for the management of psoriasis to avoid systemic toxicity. Kojic acid-loaded spanlastics were prepared by ethanol injection technique, employing span 60 along with brij 35 and cremophor rh40 as edge activators, with the complete in vitro characterization of the developed nanoplatform. The selected formulation displayed a spherical morphology, an optimum particle size of 234.2 ± 1.65 nm, high entrapment efficiency (87.4% ± 0.84%) and significant sustained drug release compared with the drug solution. In vivo studies highlighted the superior relief of psoriasis symptoms and the ability to maintain healthy skin with the least changes in mRNA expression of inflammatory cytokines, achieved by the developed nanoplatform compared to kojic acid solution. Moreover, the in vivo histopathological studies confirmed the safety of the topically applied spanlastics. In addition, the molecular mechanism was approached through in vitro assessment of cathepsin S and PDE-4 inhibitory activities and in silico investigation of kojic acid docking in several anti-psoriatic drug targets. Our results suggest that a topically applied vesicular system loaded with kojic acid could lead to an expansion in the dermo-cosmetic use of kojic acid as a natural bio-friendly alternative for systemic anti-psoriatic drugs.

A recent update on the connection between dietary phytochemicals and skin cancer: emerging understanding of the molecular mechanism

Constant exposure to harmful substances from both inside and outside the body can mess up the body's natural ways of keeping itself in balance. This can cause severe skin damage, including basal cell carcinoma (BCC), squamous cell carcinoma (SCC), and melanoma. However, plant-derived compounds found in fruits and vegetables have been shown to protect against skin cancer-causing free radicals and other harmful substances. It has been determined that these dietary phytochemicals are effective in preventing skin cancer and are widely available, inexpensive, and well-tolerated. Studies have shown that these phytochemicals possess anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and antiangiogenic properties that can aid in the prevention of skin cancers. In addition, they influence crucial cellular processes such as angiogenesis and cell cycle control, which can halt the progression of skin cancer. The present paper discusses the benefits of specific dietary phytochemicals found in fruits and vegetables, as well as the signaling pathways they regulate, the molecular mechanisms involved in the prevention of skin cancer, and their drawbacks.

Design and development of multibiocomponent hybrid alginate hydrogels and lipid nanodispersion as new materials for medical and cosmetic applications

The multibiocomponent hybrid alginate hydrogels based on brown and sea algae, containing 100 % ingredients of natural origin were prepared by ionic crosslinking reaction of a polymeric matrix with lipid nanodispersion. To the best of the Authors' knowledge such multicomponent biobased hydrogel of promising medical and cosmetical applications for the first time was obtained in the environment of flower water, received earlier as a waste by-product from various chemical processes. An innovative hybrid alginate hydrogel that is completely biodegradable and eco-friendly was obtained following waterless and upcycling trends that are in line with the principles of sustainable development. The optimal composition of the lipid nanodispersion and the polymeric matrix was selected using the statistical method of design of the experiment. Based on obtained results, multibiocomponent hybrid alginate hydrogels with various ratios of lipid nanodispersion were obtained. Subsequently, the porous structure and elasticity of the hybrid hydrogels were analyzed. Moreover, to confirm the safety of the multibiocomponent alginate hybrid hydrogels the cytotoxic tests were carried out using human fibroblasts and keratinocytes cell lines. As the final product hybrid of hydrolate-swollen alginate hydrogel and lipid nanodispersion containing several active ingredients (silymarin, bakuchiol, spirulina) was obtained.

Skin Penetration and Permeation Properties of Transcutol® in Complex Formulations

Percutaneous delivery is explored as alternative pathway for addressing the drawbacks associated with the oral administration of otherwise efficacious drugs. Short of breaching the skin by physical means, the preference goes to formulation strategies that augment passive diffusion across the skin. One such strategy lies in the use of skin penetration and permeation enhancers notably of hydroxylated solvents like propylene glycol (PG), ethanol (EtOH), and diethylene glycol monoethyl ether (Transcutol®, TRC). In a previous publication, we focused on the role of Transcutol® as enhancer in neat or diluted systems. Herein, we explore its' role in complex formulation systems, including patches, emulsions, vesicles, solid lipid nanoparticles, and micro or nanoemulsions. This review discusses enhancement mechanisms associated with hydroalcoholic solvents in general and TRC in particular, as manifested in multi-component formulation settings alongside other solvents and enhancers. The principles that govern skin penetration and permeation, notably the importance of drug diffusion due to solubilization and thermodynamic activity in the vehicle (formulation), drug solubilization and partitioning in the stratum corneum (SC), and/or solvent drag across the skin into deeper tissue for systemic absorption are discussed. Emphasized also are the interplay between the drug properties, the skin barrier function and the formulation parameters that are key to successful (trans)dermal delivery.

Topical drug delivery by Sepineo P600 emulgel: Relationship between rheology, physical stability, and formulation performance

The objective of this present work was to develop and optimize oil-in-water (O/W) emulsion-based gels, namely emulgels that allow maximum topical drug delivery while having desired microstructure and acceptable physical stability. Emulgels containing 2.0 wt% lidocaine were prepared using various concentrations (0.75-5.0 wt%) of Sepineo P600. Their droplet size distribution, physical stability, rheological behaviors, in vitro drug release, and skin permeation profiles were evaluated. Results show that the concentration of Sepineo P600 significantly influenced the microstructure, rheology, and physical stability of the emulgel formulations. The physico-chemical properties also reveals that at least 1.0 wt% Sepineo P600 was needed to produce stable emulgel formulations. All formulations exhibited non-Newtonian shear-thinning properties which are desirable for topical applications. Both the release and permeation rates decreased with increasing viscosity and rigidity of the formulation. The lower the complex modulus of the emulgels, the higher the steady-state flux of the drug through the skin. Adding Sepineo P600 to emulgel systems resulted in increased rheological properties, which in turn slowed the diffusion of the drug for in vitro release. Although as expected skin permeation was rate limiting since in vitro release was 3 to 4 log-fold faster than skin flux. However, an interesting finding was that the derived skin/vehicle partition coefficient suggested the ionic interaction between lidocaine and Sepineo polymer reducing the free drug, i.e., thermodynamic activity and hence the flux with increasing Sepineo P600 concentration. Overall, this study has provided us with valuable insights into understanding the relationship between the microstructure (rheology), physical stability and skin drug delivery properties which will help to design and optimize topical emulgel formulations.

Mechanistic Skin Modeling of Plasma Concentrations of Sunscreen Active Ingredients Following Facial Application

Sunscreen products constitute two distinct categories. Recreational sunscreens protect against high-intensity, episodic sun exposure, often applied over the entire body. In contrast, facial sunscreen products are designed for sub-erythemal, low-intensity daily sun exposure. Such different exposures necessitate distinctive product safety assessments. Building on earlier methods for predicting dermal disposition, a mechanistic model was developed to simulate plasma concentrations of seven organic sunscreen active ingredients: avobenzone, ensulizole, homosalate, octinoxate, octisalate, octocrylene, and oxybenzone, following facial application. In vitro permeation testing (IVPT) was performed with two different vehicles using a subset of the UV filters. These IVPT results, in addition to previously published IVPT data and published in vivo Maximal Usage Trial (MUsT) data for the UV filters, were used to train the mechanistic dermal model via a Bayesian Markov chain Monte Carlo (MCMC) method. An external validation of the trained model with real-world in vivo datasets demonstrated that the model's predicted UV filter plasma concentrations align well with experimental measurements and capture the observed inter-individual variability. Predictions of steady-state UV filter plasma concentrations under facial application scenarios at 5% concentration and at the maximal allowable concentrations were then generated by the trained model. Oxybenzone had the greatest predicted plasma concentration following facial application. Homosalate and octisalate predictions had high uncertainty associated with the absence of data. Several application scenarios pertaining to avobenzone, ensulizole, octocrylene and octinoxate were identified in which median plasma concentration levels were at 0.5 ng/ml or below when applied in the recreational or facial product. Model limitations include uncertainty in vehicle/water partitioning, formulation metamorphosis, and UV filter systemic clearance, all of which can be refined with additional data. For UV filters, limiting exposure to facial application reduces human safety concerns based on FDA established thresholds.

Advancements in Skin-Mediated Drug Delivery: Mechanisms, Techniques, and Applications

Skin-mediated drug delivery methods currently are receiving significant attention as a promising approach for the enhanced delivery of drugs through the skin. Skin-mediated drug delivery offers the potential to overcome the limitations of traditional drug delivery methods, including oral administration and intravenous injection. The challenges associated with drug permeation through layers of skin, which act as a major barrier, are explored, and strategies to overcome these limitations are discussed in detail. This review categorizes skin-mediated drug delivery methods based on the means of increasing drug permeation, and it provides a comprehensive overview of the mechanisms and techniques associated with these methods. In addition, recent advancements in the application of skin-mediated drug delivery are presented. The review also outlines the limitations of ongoing research and suggests future perspectives of studies regarding the skin-mediated delivery of drugs.

Nano-emulsion encapsulation for the efficient delivery of bacteriophage therapeutics

Antibiotic resistance has become the major concern for global public health. Phage therapy is being considered as an alternative for antibiotics to treat the multidrug resistant bacterial infections. Bacteriophage therapeutic developments has faced many challenges, including the drug formulations for sustainable phage delivery. The nano-emulsion platform has been described as the best approach to retain phage efficacy, shelf life and stability. Encapsulated phage drugs ensure stable delivery of phages to the target site and integrate in the system. In this review, our main focus is on the nano-emulsion encapsulation of bacteriophages and its effects towards the phage therapeutic development.

Caffeine-Containing Emulsion: Influence of the HLB and Mixing Proportions, the Oil's Chemical Composition, and the Existence of Caffeine on Emulsion Properties

This study employs a low-energy emulsification method to prepare caffeine-containing emulsions, denoted as Caf-EM. Three different oils, including coconut, sesame, and grape seed oils, are utilized along with the surfactants Span 80 and Tween 80. We investigate the influence of various factors, including (i) the hydrophilic-lipophilic balance (HLB) and surfactant ratio, (ii) the chemical composition of the oils, and (iii) the presence of caffeine, on the stability and size of emulsions. The results indicate that the HLB value and surfactant ratio are the most crucial factors affecting the emulsions' stability. The most stable Caf-EM formulation is achieved by combining mixed surfactants of Span 80 and Tween 80 with an optimal HLB value of 6.4 at a concentration of 15% (S15 to 6.4) across all oil types. This specific ratio also leads to significantly smaller emulsion droplet sizes than other ratios and is the only ratio that produces stable emulsions even without caffeine (denoted as EM). Notably, formulation S15-6.4 additionally causes a phase inversion from oil-in-water (O/W) to water-in-oil (W/O). Furthermore, the presence of caffeine in the water phase contributes to the formation of smaller and more stable emulsions. The particle size of Caf-EM is approximately 1.5 times smaller than that of EM. Regarding the oil's chemical composition, while there is a discernible trend in emulsion droplet size (coconut oil > grape seed oil > sesame oil), the differences within this sequence are insignificant, suggesting that the oil's chemical composition does not have a pronounced effect.

Dendrobium officinale Kimura & Migo polysaccharide and its multilayer emulsion protect skin photoaging

ETHNOPHARMACOLOGICAL RELEVANCE

Dendrobium officinale Kimura & Migo is traditionally used to treat skin diseases, gastrointestinal diseases, and other diseases. Dendrobium officinale polysaccharides (DOP) are the main component of Dendrobium officinale that accounts for its bioactivity, which shows a variety of effects such as moisturizing, antioxidant and anti-fatigue. However, there is no comprehensive study on the effect of DOP on skin photoaging combined with in vitro and in vivo models, and its specific mechanism is still unclear.

AIM OF THE STUDY

Our study aimed to explore the effect and underlying mechanism of DOP on skin photoaging, as well as to improve the stability and transdermal absorption of DOP.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

DOP was extracted, purified and structurally characterized. In vitro HaCaT cell photoaging model was used to examine the photoprotection effect of DOP. Cell viability was detected by CCK-8; Intracellular reactive oxygen species were determined by DCFH-DA; DNA damage, cell apoptosis and cell cycle arrest were examined by flow cytocytometry. For autophagy flux detection, the adenovirus loaded with mRFP-GFP-LC3 was introduced into cells. Further, to enhance the stability and absorption of DOP, we designed and prepared the W/O/W type DOP multilayer emulsions (ME) by a two-step emulsification method. The emulsion stability, drug loading and encapsulation rate, DOP stability and DOP transdermal rate were detected. In vivo photoaging animal model was applied to compare the difference of photoaging protection effect between DOP solution and DOP ME. Specifically, skin appearance, histological change, antioxidant system, proinflammatory indicators, matrix metalloproteinases and autophagy level of skin tissues were examined and compared.

RESULTS

The results showed that DOP achieve photoaging protection by inhibiting oxidative stress, alleviating cell cycle arrest and apoptosis, and enhancing autophagy flux in photoaged HaCaT cells. The W/O/W type DOP multilayer emulsion (ME) with high encapsulation rate and strong stability was found to significantly improve the stability and transdermal absorption of DOP. In addition, our results showed that DOP (ME) remarkably improved skin condition of photoaged mice. Specifically, DOP (ME) enhanced the expression of antioxidant enzymes and autophagy and decreased the levels of pro-inflammatory factors and matrix metalloproteinases in the skin of photoaged mice as compared with DOP solution.

CONCLUSIONS

In conclusion, DOP was effective in improving skin photoaging, and the DOP multilayer emulsion we designed enhanced the stability and skin absorption of DOP, boosting DOP's protective effect against photoaging.

3D human foreskin model for testing topical formulations of sildenafil citrate

Sildenafil citrate is an approved drug used for the treatment of erectile dysfunction and premature ejaculation. Despite a widespread application, sildenafil citrate shows numerous adverse cardiovascular effects in high-risk patients. Local transdermal drug delivery of this drug is therefore being explored as an interesting and noninvasive alternative administration method that avoids adverse effects arised from peak plasma drug concentrations. Although human and animal skin represents the most reliable models to perform penetration studies, they involve a series of ethical issues and restrictions. For these reasons new in vitro approaches based on artificially reconstructed human skin or "human skin equivalents" are being developed as possible alternatives for transdermal testing. There is little information, however, on the efficiency of such new in vitro methods on cutaneous penetration of active ingredients. The objective of the current study was to investigate the sildenafil citrate loaded in three commercial transdermal vehicles using 3D full-thickness skin equivalent and compare the results with the permeability experiments using porcine skin. Our results demonstrated that, while the formulation plays an imperative role in an appropriate dermal uptake of sildenafil citrate, the D coefficient results obtained by using the 3D skin equivalent are comparable to those obtained by using the porcine skin when a simple drug suspension is applied (1.17 × 10-10 ± 0.92 × 10-10 cm2/s vs 3.5 × 102 ± 3.3 × 102 cm2/s), suggesting that in such case, this 3D skin model can be a valid alternative for ex-vivo skin absorption experiments.

In vitro Evaluation Method of UV Protecting Ability of Sunscreens: Clarifying and Overcoming Problems to Develop New Method

Factors influencing on in vitro evaluation of UV protecting ability of sunscreens were analyzed. It was found that any factors making the sunscreen layer spatially inhomogeneous, such as directional viscous fingering during the sunscreen application, dewetting of applied sunscreen layer, and the surface roughness of the standard PMMA plate, alter the UV transmittance. New application procedure and new type of flat hydrophilic plate were developed for inhibiting the generation of spatial inhomogeneity in applied sunscreen layer. The method created by the combination of these newly developed technologies succeeded in providing reliable and reproducible in vitro evaluation of UV protecting ability.

The study of tryptophol containing emulgel on fungal reduction and skin irritation

Tryptophol (TOH), a fungal quorum-sensing molecule, that possesses anti-fungal activities for controlling the growth of human pathogenic fungi. In the present study, we developed TOH-containing emulgel formulations and examined the antifungal activities and potential use as topical treatments on the skin. The results showed that TOH-containing emulgel at 1000 μM has excellent physical characteristics as homogenous, stability, and inhibits the growth of 30 species of human pathogenic fungi in vitro. TOH-containing emulgel did not cause skin irritation in mouse model of irritation and in healthy human volunteers. Moreover, an increase in skin hydration and a decrease in trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL) were observed after TOH-containing emulgel treatment on human skin. Our findings indicated that TOH-containing emulgel can be utilize as an antifungal agent for topical treatment against fungal infections on the skin.

Balsam Poplar Buds Extracts-Loaded Gels and Emulgels: Development, Biopharmaceutical Evaluation, and Biological Activity In Vitro

Balsam poplar buds have been used for wound healing and treating irritated skin in traditional medicine. Balsam poplar buds extracts exhibit anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and antimicrobial effects. In recent years, scientific research has begun to validate some of these traditional uses, leading to an increased interest in balsam poplar buds as a potential source of natural remedies in modern medicine. The study aims to simulate semi-solid pharmaceutical forms with balsam poplar buds extract and evaluate their quality through biopharmaceutical research. The active compounds identified in Lithuanian poplar buds were p-coumaric acid, cinnamic acid, caffeic acid, galangin, pinocembrin, pinobanksin, and salicin. In gels, pH values ranged from 5.85 ± 0.05 to 5.95 ± 0.07. The determined pH values of emulgels ranged from 5.13 ± 0.05 to 5.66 ± 0.15. After 6 h, the release of active compounds from gels and emulgels ranged from 47.40 ± 2.41% to 71.17 ± 3.54. p-coumaric acid dominates in the balsam poplar buds extracts. The pH values of the prepared sem-solid pharmaceutical forms are suitable for use on the skin. The viscosity of the formulations depends on the amount of gelling agent. All formulations showed antioxidant activity. It is relevant to conduct a more extensive study on the influence of the chosen carrier on the release of active compounds from semi-solid formulations with an extract of balsam poplar buds.

Development of a Nanoemulgel for the Topical Application of Mupirocin

Mupirocin (MUP) is an effective topical antibiotic with poor skin permeability; however, its skin permeability can be improved by a nanoemulsion formulation based on eucalyptus oil or eucalyptol. Despite this improvement, the nanoemulsion has limitations, such as low viscosity, low spreadability, and poor retention on the skin. To overcome these limitations, the aim of this study was to develop a nanoemulgel formulation that would enhance its rheological behaviour and physicochemical properties. The MUP nanoemulgel was prepared by incorporating a preprepared MUP nanoemulsion into Carbopol gel at a concentration of 0.75% in a 1:1 ratio. The nanoemulgel formulations were characterised and evaluated for their physicochemical and mechanical strength properties, rheological behaviour, and in vitro skin permeation and deposition, as well as antibacterial studies. Both nanoemulgels exhibited stability at temperatures of 4 and 25 °C for a period of 3 months. They had a smooth, homogenous, and consistent appearance and displayed non-Newtonian pseudoplastic behaviour, with differences in their viscosity and spreadability. However, both nanoemulgels exhibited lower skin permeability compared to the marketed control. The local accumulation efficiency of MUP from nanoemulgel after 8 h was significantly higher than that of the control, although there was no significant difference after 24 h. Micro-CT scan imaging allowed visualisation of these findings and interpretation of the deposited drug spots within the layers of treated skin. While there were no significant differences in the antibacterial activities between the nanoemulgels and the control, the nanoemulgels demonstrated superiority over the control due to their lower content of MUP. These findings support the potential use of the nanoemulgel for targeting skin lesions where high skin deposition and low permeability are required, such as in the case of topical antibacterial agents.

Human metabolism and excretion kinetics of the surfactant 2,4,7,9-tetramethyl-5-decyne-4,7-diol (TMDD) after oral and dermal administration

2,4,7,9-Tetramethyl-5-decyne-4,7-diol (TMDD) is a non-ionic surfactant with a wide range of applications. TMDD is considered a high-production chemical and, due to its low biodegradation rate, possesses a potentially high prevalence in the environment. However, despite its widespread use, toxicokinetic data and data on internal exposure to TMDD in the general population are completely lacking. Hence, we developed a human biomonitoring (HBM) method for TMDD. Our approach included a metabolism study with four subjects, who were administered an oral dose of 75 µg TMDD/kg body weight and a dermal dose of 750 µg/kg body weight. Terminal methyl-hydroxylated TMDD (1-OH-TMDD) was previously identified as the main urinary metabolite in our lab. The results of the oral and dermal applications were used to determine the toxicokinetic parameters of 1-OH-TMDD as a biomarker of exposure. Finally, the method was applied to 50 urine samples from non-occupationally exposed volunteers. Results show that TMDD was rapidly metabolized, with an average tmax of 1.7 h and a rapid and almost complete (96%) excretion of 1-OH-TMDD until 12 h after oral dosage. Elimination was bi-phasic, with half-lives of 0.75-1.6 h and 3.4-3.6 h for phases 1 and 2, respectively. The dermal application resulted in a delayed urinary excretion of this metabolite with a tmax of 12 h and complete excretion after about 48 h. The excreted amounts of 1-OH-TMDD represented 18% of the orally administered TMDD dose. The data of the metabolism study demonstrated a fast oral as well as substantial dermal resorption of TMDD. Moreover, the results indicated an effective metabolism of 1-OH-TMDD, which is excreted rapidly and completely via urine. Application of the method to 50 urine samples revealed a quantification rate of 90%, with an average concentration of 0.19 ng/mL (0.97 nmol/g creatinine). With the urinary excretion factor (Fue) derived from the metabolism study, we estimated an average daily intake of 1.65 µg TMDD from environmental and dietary sources. In conclusion, 1-OH-TMDD in urine is a suitable biomarker of exposure to TMDD and can be applied for biomonitoring of the general population.

Evaluating the role of protective creams on the cutaneous penetration of Ni nanoparticles

There is an increase of application of Nickel in the form of nanoparticles (NiNPs) in several fields including modern metallurgy, bioengineering, and medicine. Such growth of the areas of application is actually accompanied with an increase of exposure to Nickel, thus an intensification of the negative effects, the most frequent being the allergic contact dermatitis. Indeed, due to their smaller size, and therefore their higher surface area, NiNPs can release more Ni ions compared to bulk material, that can penetrate and permeate through the skin. To reduce the Ni cutaneous penetration, barrier creams (BC) are applied on the skin surface. There is little information, however, on the efficiency of such commercial protective creams on decreasing Ni cutaneous penetration. For this reason, the objective of the current study was to investigate the protective role of one commercially available formulation for Ni (Nik-L-Block™ containing a chelating agent) and one moisturizing cream (Ceramol 311 basic cream without chelating agent), following exposure to NiNPs, using in vitro Franz cells, as well as the cytotoxicity of NiNPs in primary human dermal fibroblasts was studied. Our results demonstrated that although both tested formulations can decrease Ni accumulation in the skin (4.13 ± 1.74 μg/cm² for Nik-L-Block™ and 7.14 ± 1.46 μg/cm² for Ceramol 311 basic cream); there are significant differences between the two creams (p = 0.004). Based on the experimental evidence, we therefore conclude that the composition of such formulations has an imperative role for dermal uptake of Ni. Finally, NiNPs showed no cytotoxic effect on cultured human dermal fibroblasts after 24 and 72 h.

Bioactive Lavandula angustifolia essential oil-loaded nanoemulsion dressing for burn wound healing. In vitro and in vivo studies

The aim of this study was to develop a dressing with bioactive lavender in a new form of nanoemulsion, and to verify its biosafety and effectiveness in burn wound healing. As part of this research, the composition of the bioactive carrier of lavender oil in the form of a nanoemulsion obtained using ultrasound was optimised. The mean particle size of the internal phase and polydispersity were determined using the dynamic light scattering method using a Zestasizer NanoZS by Malvern and using cryo-transmission electron microscopy (TEM). These studies confirmed that the selected formulation had a particle size of approximately 180 nm and remained stable over time. The preparation was also subjected to rheological analysis (viscosity approximately 480 mPa·s) and a pH test (approximately 6). A macroemulsion (ME) with the same qualitative composition was developed as a reference. Nanoformulations and MEs were tested for skin penetration using Raman spectroscopy in an in vitro model. Research has shown that both formulations deliver oil to living layers of the skin. Subsequently, studies were conducted to confirm the effect of lavender oil in emulsion systems on the mitigation of the inflammatory reaction and its pro-regenerative effect on the wound healing process in an in vitro cell culture model. The safe concentration of the oil in the emulsion preparation was also determined based on preliminary in vivo tests of skin sensitisation and irritation as well as an hemocompatibility test of the preparation.

Investigating the Changes in Cream Properties Following Topical Application and Their Influence on the Product Efficiency

Topical products are not stable following application to the skin due to the evaporation of volatile components. Such changes have been demonstrated in liquid emulsions, but there is almost no study available for creams in this respect. The aim of the present investigation is to evaluate the changes in cream properties following topical application and their influence on product efficiency. A method has also been designed and validated to mimic cream application to the skin. To perform this investigation, five different creams were prepared and alterations of type of creams, size of droplets of the dispersed phase, occlusivity, water content and rate of water loss were studied after application. These changes were then attributed to the type of cream, water content, presence of humectant, and time post application. The results demonstrated that creams changed intensely after application, including the phase inversion of O/W formulations, changes in the occlusivity of creams, reduction of water content, rate of water evaporation and droplet size. Such changes could be controlled partly by humectants. The present results suggest that formulators should be aware of such possible changes and required precautions should be taken in advance.

Dermal Penetration Studies of Potential Phenolic Compounds Ex Vivo and Their Antioxidant Activity In Vitro

Phenolic compounds with miscellaneous biological activities are an interesting component in dermatology and cosmetology practices. The aim of our study was to determine the phenolic compounds released from emulsion, emulgel, gel, ointment, and oleogel formulations penetration into human skin layers, both the epidermis and dermis, and estimate their antioxidant activity. The ex vivo penetration study was performed using Bronaugh type flow-through diffusion cells. Penetration studies revealed that, within 24 h, the chlorogenic acid released from the oleogel penetrated into skin layers to a depth of 2.0 ± 0.1 µg/mL in the epidermis and 1.5 ± 0.07 µg/mL in the dermis. The oleogel-released complex of phenolic compounds penetrating into epidermis showed the strongest DPPH free radical scavenging activity (281.8 ± 14.1 µM TE/L). The study estimated a strong positive correlation (r = 0.729) between the amount of quercetin penetrated into epidermis and the antioxidant activity detected in the epidermis extract. Plant based phenolic compounds demonstrated antioxidant activity and showed great permeability properties through the skin.

Pharmacokinetics and the Dermal Absorption of Bromochlorophene, a Cosmetic Preservative Ingredient, in Rats

The cosmetic industry has flourished in recent years. Accordingly, the safety of cosmetic ingredients is increasing. Bromochlorophene (BCP) is a commonly used cosmetic preservative. To evaluate the effects of BCP exposure, in vitro dermal absorption and in vivo pharmacokinetic (PK) studies were conducted using gel and cream formulations. The Franz diffusion cell system and rat dorsal skin were used for tests according to the Korea Ministry of Food and Drug Safety guidelines for in vitro skin absorption methods. After the dermal application (1.13 mg/cm²) of BCP in the gel and cream formulations, liquid chromatography–mass spectrometry (LC–MS/MS) was used to evaluate the amount of BCP that remained unabsorbed on the skin (WASH), and that was present in the receptor fluid (RF), stratum corneum (SC), and (epi)dermis (SKIN). The total dermal absorption rate of BCP was 7.42 ± 0.74% for the gel formulation and 1.5 ± 0.9% for the cream formulation. Total recovery in an in vitro dermal absorption study was 109.12 ± 8.79% and 105.43 ± 11.07% for the gel and cream formulations, respectively. In vivo PK and dermal absorption studies of BCP were performed following the Organization for Economic Cooperation and Development guidelines 417 and 427, respectively. When intravenous (i.v.) pharmacokinetics was performed, BCP was dissolved in glycerol formal and injected into the tail vein (n = 3) of the rats at doses of 1 and 0.2 mg/kg. Dermal PK parameters were estimated by the application of the gel and cream formulations (2.34 mg/kg of BCP as an active ingredient) to the dorsal skin of the rats. Intravenous and dermal PK parameters were analyzed using a non-compartmental method. The dermal bioavailability of BCP was determined as 12.20 ± 2.63% and 4.65 ± 0.60% for the gel and cream formulations, respectively. The representative dermal absorption of BCP was evaluated to be 12.20 ± 2.63% based on the results of the in vivo PK study.

New in vitro SPF Evaluation Method for Hydrophilic Sunscreen Samples

A new method was developed for the in vitro sun protection factor (SPF) evaluation of sunscreen samples. A new type of substrate, a hydroxyalkyl cellulose-coated plate, was also prepared specifically for hydrophilic samples. This new substrate was required because hydrophilic samples would be unlikely to wet the surface of the standard cosmetic PMMA UV evaluation plate. A super-hydrophilic quartz plate was prepared by corona-discharge treatment before an aqueous solution of hydroxyalkyl cellulose was spread on it. A flat and uniform hydroxyalkyl cellulose film was subsequently formed through the evaporation of water. Special care was taken to inhibit the generation of spatial non-uniformity. Six hydrophilic sunscreen samples with in vivo SPF values of 56, 55, 52, 25, 15, and 4, were then applied to the prepared hydroxyalkyl cellulose-coated plate, as well as a super-hydrophilic quartz plate and a flat hydrophobic PMMA plate. The thicknesses of the applied layers were determined using a wheel-shaped wet film thickness gauge immediately after the application, and UV transmission was measured using an SPF analyzer. The value of in vitro SPF was calculated from the UV absorbance and the thickness of the layer. For two out of the six samples, PMMA plate could not be available, as the samples were unable to wet the PMMA surface. Relatively small differences were observed between the in vitro SPF values when the super-hydrophilic and hydroxyalkyl cellulose-coated plates were used. Samples exhibiting higher in vivo SPF were also associated with higher in vitro SPF values, although a linear relationship was not observed. In contrast to the super-hydrophilic plate whose half-life of the super-hydrophilicity is only approximately five days, the hydrophilicity of the hydroxyalkyl cellulose-coated plate scarcely varied during six months of storage. Finally, a simplified evaluation method was also proposed. The validity of the method was verified through a ring test where three researchers employed this method in different laboratories at three independent organizations.

Encapsulated Activated Grape Seed Extract: A Novel Formulation with Anti-Aging, Skin-Brightening, and Hydration Properties

Protein phosphatase 2A (PP2A) is a master regulatory protein that plays a critical role in oxidative stress signaling. A novel, proprietary grape seed extract called Activated Grape Seed Extract (AGSE), enriched for PP2A-activating flavonoids, was recently developed and demonstrated to have antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activities. AGSE is a purple-colored powder, with limited solubility restricting its use in a broad range of formulations. Our aim was to develop a formulation that reduced the color and increased the solubility of AGSE, allowing its skin-health-enhancing properties to be utilized in a wider array of products, and to test it clinically. Encapsulation was performed utilizing a liposome and hydroxypropyl-β-cyclodextrin, (HPCD)-based approach to produce Encapsulated AGSE (E-AGSE). Human dermal fibroblasts and epidermal keratinocytes were used to determine expression levels of aging and dermal–epidermal junction (DEJ) markers. EpiDerm™ was UVB-irradiated to measure the effects against cytokine release, DNA damage, apoptosis, and skin barrier. Human melanocytes were used to determine melanin production and mushroom tyrosinase was used for inhibitory activity. A 4-week, 31-subject sensitive-skin clinical was performed with 2% E-AGSE Essence to assess its activity on human skin. We demonstrated that E-AGSE inhibits PP2A demethylation, increases key anti-aging (collagen I, III, elastin) and DEJ markers, protects against UVB-induced DNA damage, reduces inflammation, and promotes filaggrin in vitro. Moreover, E-AGSE reduces melanin production via tyrosinase inhibition. Clinical assessment of E-AGSE showed that it reduces the appearance of wrinkles, brightens the skin, and boosts hydration. E-AGSE is a novel grape seed extract formulation enriched for PP2A-activating flavonoids that is clinically effective in sensitive skin, providing several benefits.

Effect of green tea extract loaded chitosan microparticles on facial skin: A split-face, double-blind, randomized placebo-controlled study

INTRODUCTION

The bioactivities of green tea extract were indicated to promote skin health in vitro. Few clinical studies reported on skin nourishment of topical applying green tea extract due to the limited skin absorption.

METHODS

This current study evaluated the clinical effectiveness and safety of green tea extract encapsulated chitosan microparticles (GTP) in emulsion base on a split-face, double-blind, randomized placebo-controlled study. Twenty-nine female volunteers were recruited into the study. They were randomly assigned to apply GTP and placebo creams on each half face for 8 weeks. The facial skin properties on both sides were monitored and evaluated every 2 weeks.

RESULTS

The results revealed that skin elasticity (R2) of half face treated with GTP cream (0.748 ± 0.05) was superior to another that received placebo cream (0.722 ± 0.05) at 4th week. In addition, melanin index implying skin dullness of the half face that received GTP cream significantly improved within the 6th week after application (placebo =295.60 ± 58.81, GTP =282.70 ± 59.62). Most importantly, the photographs clearly indicated that the decreasing in facial wrinkles of volunteers applied with GTP cream was more than those applying placebo cream. Signs of skin irritation were not evident in both treatment and placebo cream groups.

CONCLUSION

Based on study outcomes, the green tea extract encapsulated chitosan microparticles appear to be the promising active candidate for promoting skin elasticity and improving skin dullness and wrinkles.

Relationship between sensorial and physical characteristics of topical creams: A comparative study on effects of excipients

Rising consumer demands for safer, more natural, and sustainable topical products have led to increased interest in finding alternative excipients, while retaining functionality and cosmetic appeal. Particle-stabilized Pickering creams have emerged as possible alternatives to replace traditional surfactant-stabilized creams and are thus one of the focuses in this study. The aim of this paper was to study relationships between sensorial characteristics and physical properties to understand how different excipients affect these aspects, comparing one starch particle-stabilized and three surfactant-stabilized formulations. A human panel was used to evaluate sensorial perception, while physical properties were deduced by rheology and tactile friction, together with in vivo and ex vivo skin hydration measurements. The results show that sensorial attributes related to the application phase can be predicted with rheology, while afterfeel attributes can be predicted with tactile friction studies. Differences in rheological and sensory properties among surfactant-based creams could mainly be attributed to the type of emollients used, presence of thickeners and surfactant composition. Differences between surfactant-based creams and a Pickering cream were more evident in relation to the afterfeel perception. Presence of starch particles in the residual film on skin results in high tactile friction and low perception of residual coating, stickiness, greasiness, and slipperiness in sensorial afterfeel.

Enhanced Skin Performance of Emulgel vs. Cream as Systems for Topical Delivery of Herbal Actives (Immortelle Extract and Hemp Oil)

Immortelle, as rich source of chlorogenic acid and the phloroglucinol alpha-pyrone compound arzanol, possesses anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties, affects cell regeneration, and has positive effect on many skin conditions. Hemp oil, characterized by a favorable omega-6 to omega-3 ratio, as well as an abundance of essential fatty acids and vitamin E, participates in immunoregulation and also act as an anti-inflammatory. In the present study, we examined the effect on the skin of creams and emulgels with immortelle extract and hemp oil, by comparing them to placebo samples and a non-treated control. A long-term in vivo study of biophysical skin characteristics, which lasted for 30 days, was conducted on 25 healthy human volunteers. Measured parameters were electrical capacitance of the stratum corneum, trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL), and skin pH and erythema index. Further, a sensory study was carried out in which the panelists had to choose descriptive terms for sensory attributes in questionnaire. The results showed that application of all preparations led to increase of skin hydration and TEWL reduction, while the skin was not irritated, and its normal pH was not disrupted. This study also showed importance of the carrier. Not only were emulgels described by panelists as preparations with better sensory properties, there was a significant difference between the skin hydration effect of emulgel with immortelle extract and hemp oil compared to the placebo emulgel, which was not the case with creams. Such findings indicated enhanced delivery of herbal active substances from emulgel compared to the cream.

Encapsulation of cycloastragenol in phospholipid vesicles enhances transport and delivery across the skin barrier

Cycloastragenol (CA) is a plant saponin that functions as a telomerase activator, and it has been made as an oral anti-aging supplement and use as active ingredient in topical cosmetic products. The anti-aging performance in cosmetic products have only been evaluated by description of skin appearance, while direct topical penetration of CA across the skin barrier still needs to be confirmed. The objective of this work was to design encapsulation vehicles to deliver CA across the skin barrier using commercially available ingredients through scalable processes, and to prove its topical penetration. Phospholipid vesicles including liposomes, ethosomes, and transethosomes were prepared using soy and sunflower phospholipids and different penetration enhancers, including ethanol and surfactants. The loading capacity of CA was analyzed using high performance liquid chromatography, and the topical penetration of CA was evaluated using Franz diffusion cells with pig skin. Transethosomes using Tween 80, Span 40, or dicetylphosphate as the penetration enhancer showed better CA delivery across the skin barrier than ethosomes or emulsifier α-gels. Results of this work provide evidence that CA encapsulated in phospholipid vesicles can be transported across the skin barrier. These encapsulation systems could be used for the design of CA-containing anti-aging cosmetic products.

Resveratrol-Loaded Vesicular Elastic Nanocarriers Gel in Imiquimod-Induced Psoriasis Treatment: In Vitro and In Vivo Evaluation

This work aimed to develop a new efficient approach for safe treatment of psoriasis. To achieve that, resveratrol-loaded spanlastics(F1-F12) were prepared and evaluated by complete in vitro characterization. The two optimal formulations (F10 and F11) had their particle size in the nano range with high entrapment efficiency and sustainable drug release. These two formulae were incorporated in carbopol 934 gel formulations (G1-G8) with different concentrations of drug and carbopol 934 polymer. G1 and G5 (1% w/w Carbopol 934 gel and 0.1% resveratrol) showed 40.13% ± 2.017% and 73.76% ± 2.46%,8 hours drug release, respectively. Their pH was accepted and non-irritant. At a shear stress of 500 s^-1, G1 and G5 showed a reasonable viscosity of 1048.5 ± 2.12 cps and 954 ± 2.15 cps, respectively. In the in vivo psoriasis study, mice treated by G5 gel showed significant improvement of erythema and scaling compared to positive control group and they maintained healthy skin as shown in histopathological observations. Moreover, this group showed the least changes in mRNA expression of inflammatory cytokines. Concisely, our results suggest that selected carbopol gel of resveratrol-loaded spanlastics could maximize resveratrol topical anti-psoriatic effect.

From Cosmetics to Innovative Cosmeceuticals—Non-Woven Tissues as New Biodegradable Carriers

Due to pollution and climate-change fear, further increased by the COVID19 pandemic, consumers are looking for body and mind health by the request of more effective and safe products, including the anti-aging skincare cosmeceuticals.. The term “cosmeceuticals” was coined in 1962 as a fusion of cosmetic and pharmaceutical to cover a new class of products able to achieve aesthetic and drug-like benefits. They not only improve the skin’s appearance, but also treat different dermatological conditions, through a physiological activity, shown by in vitro and in vivo studies. This new category of cosmetics should contain no recognized drugs, but nonetheless have medicinal value. Consumers, in fact, are looking for products able to regenerate the skin and maintain not only a youthful appearance together with well-ness and well-being, but preserving the environment also. Consequently, they are searching for cosmetics and food made with high-quality natural ingredients, packaged with biodegradable materials and realized by sustainable technologies, possibly at zero waste. Consumers, in fact, are afraid of the pollution and plastics invading lands and oceans, causing many frequent disasters on our planet. New and smart tissues and films, made by polysaccharides and natural active ingredients, are proposed as innovative cosmeceuticals. These non-woven tissues, embedded by micro/nano complexes of chitin and lignin encapsulating different active ingredients, could represent a new category of vehicles that are characterized for their high effectiveness and safeness. Moreover, they do not induce allergic nor sensitizing phenomena, being biodegradable; skin- and environmentally friendly; and free of preservatives, emulsifiers, colors, fragrances and any kind of chemicals. Last but not least, polysaccharides, chitin and lignin may be obtained from industrial and agro-forestry waste, safeguarding the natural raw materials for the future generations.

Film-Forming Systems for Dermal Drug Delivery

Film-forming formulations represent a novel form of sustained release dermatic products. They are applied to the skin as a liquid or semi-solid preparation. By evaporation of the volatile solvent on the skin, the polymer contained in the formulation forms a solid film. Various film-forming formulations were tested for their water and abrasion resistance and compared with conventional semi-solid formulations. Penetration and permeation studies of the formulations indicate a potential utility as transdermal therapeutic systems. They can be used as an alternative to patch systems to administer a variety of drugs in a topical way and may provide sustained release characteristics.

Effect of topical applications of sunflower seed oil on systemic fatty acid levels in under-two children under rehabilitation for severe acute malnutrition in Bangladesh: a randomized controlled trial

Background

Children with severe acute malnutrition (SAM) have inadequate levels of fatty acids (FAs) and limited capacity for enteral nutritional rehabilitation. We hypothesized that topical high-linoleate sunflower seed oil (SSO) would be effective adjunctive treatment for children with SAM.

Methods

This study tested a prespecified secondary endpoint of a randomized, controlled, unblinded clinical trial with 212 children with SAM aged 2 to 24 months in two strata (2 to < 6 months, 6 to 24 months in a 1:2 ratio) at Dhaka Hospital of icddr,b, Bangladesh between January 2016 and December 2017. All children received standard-of-care management of SAM. Children randomized to the emollient group also received whole-body applications of 3 g/kg SSO three times daily for 10 days. We applied difference-in-difference analysis and unsupervised clustering analysis using t-distributed stochastic neighbor embedding (t-SNE) to visualize changes in FA levels in blood from day 0 to day 10 of children with SAM treated with emollient compared to no-emollient.

Results

Emollient therapy led to systematically higher increases in 26 of 29 FAs over time compared to the control. These effects were driven primarily by changes in younger subjects (27 of 29 FAs). Several FAs, especially those most abundant in SSO showed high-magnitude but non-significant incremental increases from day 0 to day 10 in the emollient group vs. the no-emollient group; for linoleic acid, a 237 μg/mL increase was attributable to enteral feeding and an incremental 98 μg/mL increase (41%) was due to emollient therapy. Behenic acid (22:0), gamma-linolenic acid (18:3n6), and eicosapentaenoic acid (20:5n3) were significantly increased in the younger age stratum; minimal changes were seen in the older children.

Conclusions

SSO therapy for SAM augmented the impact of enteral feeding in increasing levels of several FAs in young children. Further research is warranted into optimizing this novel approach for nutritional rehabilitation of children with SAM, especially those < 6 months.

Trial registration

ClinicalTrials.gov: NCT02616289.

Supplementary Information

The online version contains supplementary material available at 10.1186/s12937-021-00707-3.

Assessment of Vehicle Volatility and Deposition Layer Thickness in Skin Penetration Models

Systemic disposition of dermally applied chemicals is often formulation-dependent. Rapid evaporation of the vehicle can result in crystallization of active compounds, limiting their degree of skin penetration. In addition, the choice of vehicle can affect the permeant’s degree of penetration into the stratum corneum. The aim of this study is to build a predictive, mechanistic, dermal absorption model that accounts for vehicle-specific effects on the kinetics of permeant transport into skin. An existing skin penetration model is extended to explicitly include the effect of vehicle volatility over time. Using in vitro measurements of skin penetration by chemicals applied in both a saline and an ethanol solvent, the model is optimized to learn two vehicle-specific quantities: the solvent evaporation rate and the extent of permeant deposition into the upper stratum corneum immediately following application. The dermal disposition estimates of the trained model are subsequently compared against those of the original model using further in vitro measurements. The trained model showed a 1.5-fold improvement and a 19-fold improvement in overall goodness of fit among compounds tested in saline and ethanol solvents, respectively. The proposed model structure can thus form a basis for in vitro to in vivo extrapolations of dermal disposition for skin formulations containing volatile components.

Formulations for Bacteriophage Therapy and the Potential Uses of Immobilization

The emergence of antibiotic-resistant pathogens is becoming increasingly problematic in the treatment of bacterial diseases. This has led to bacteriophages receiving increased attention as an alternative form of treatment. Phages are effective at targeting and killing bacterial strains of interest and have yielded encouraging results when administered as part of a tailored treatment to severely ill patients as a last resort. Despite this, success in clinical trials has not always been as forthcoming, with several high-profile trials failing to demonstrate the efficacy of phage preparations in curing diseases of interest. Whilst this may be in part due to reasons surrounding poor phage selection and a lack of understanding of the underlying disease, there is growing consensus that future success in clinical trials will depend on effective delivery of phage therapeutics to the area of infection. This can be achieved using bacteriophage formulations instead of purely liquid preparations. Several encapsulation-based strategies can be applied to produce phage formulations and encouraging results have been observed with respect to efficacy as well as long term phage stability. Immobilization-based approaches have generally been neglected for the production of phage therapeutics but could also offer a viable alternative.

Application of Poloxamers for the Development of Drug Delivery System to Treat Leishmaniasis: A Review

Leishmaniasis is a neglected tropical disease affecting more than 1.5 million people annually, with an annual mortality of over 20.000. The drugs used for its treatment are toxic, expensive, require extended treatment times and present variable efficacy. The disease severity and therapy limitations suggest the need for new antileishmanial agents. In this context, in order to identify new options for treatment, a number of studies based on nanotechnological strategies have been carried out. Poloxamers are triblock copolymers very often utilized for nanotherapeutic solutions, resulting in products with better solubility, higher stability, superior therapeutic efficacy and less toxicity. This review will discuss the physicochemical properties of the copolymers, as well as describe the use of poloxamers for the development of therapeutic formulations to treat leishmaniasis.

In vitro skin penetration of bronidox, bronopol and formaldehyde from cosmetics

The objective was to evaluate the influence of the formulation in the in vitro transdermal absorption through pig ear skin of three preservatives, bronopol, bronidox and formaldehyde as well as the absorption of formaldehyde from bronopol and dimethyloldimethyl hydantoin (DMDM hydantoin). An aqueous solution, an O/W emulsion and a hydrogel were assayed. Bronidox and bronopol absorption depends on the formulation. The O/W emulsion was the system that least promoted absorption of bronidox while the absorption of bronopol was lower from the hydrogel. The aqueous solution provided maximal transdermal absorption of both preservatives. Moreover, the transdermal absorption of formaldehyde released from bronopol also depends on the formulation, being the aqueous solution the system that allowed greater absorption. Transdermal absorption of formaldehyde, applied directly or released from DMDM hydantoin, is not conditioned by the excipients. The degree of transdermal absorption of all the preservatives tested is low and therefore the concentrations allowed by regulations are safely used. Nonetheless, since formaldehyde was detected in the receptor compartment after a long time exposure to bronopol and DMDM hydantoin it would be important to consider the possibility of limiting the use of these two preservatives to rinse off products as is the case of bronidox.

Formulation of Topical Dosage Forms Containing Synthetic and Natural Anti-Inflammatory Agents for the Treatment of Rheumatoid Arthritis

Topical anti-inflammatory and analgesic effect for the treatment of rheumatoid arthritis is of major interest because of their fewer side effects compared to oral therapy. The purpose of this study was to prepare different types of topical formulations (ointments and gels) containing synthetic and natural anti-inflammatory agents with different excipients (e.g.,: surfactants, gel-forming) for the treatment of rheumatoid arthritis. The combination of Non-Steroidal Anti-Inflammatory Drugs (NSAIDs), diclofenac sodium, a topical analgesic agent methyl salicylate, and a lyophilized extract of Calendula officinalis with antioxidant effect were used in our formulations. The aim was to select the appropriate excipients and dosage form for the formulation in order to enhance the diffusion of active substances and to certify the antioxidant, analgesic, and anti-inflammatory effects of these formulations. To characterize the physicochemical properties of the formulations, rheological studies, and texture profile analysis were carried out. Membrane diffusion and permeability studies were performed with Franz-diffusion method. The therapeutic properties of the formulations have been proven by an antioxidant assay and a randomized prospective study that was carried out on 115 patients with rheumatoid arthritis. The results showed that the treatment with the gel containing diclofenac sodium, methyl salicylate, and lyophilized Calendula officinalis as active ingredients, 2-propenoic acid homopolymer (Synthalen K) as gel-forming excipient, distilled water, triethanolamine, and glycerol had a beneficial analgesic and local anti-inflammatory effect.

Co-amorphous formation of piroxicam-citric acid to generate supersaturation and improve skin permeation

The objective of this study was to prepare a co-amorphous formulation of piroxicam (PIR), a non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drug, and citric acid (CA), and evaluate its skin permeation ability. A spray-drying method was employed to prepare the co-amorphous formulation and its physical properties were characterized. X-ray powder diffraction and thermal analysis confirmed a homogeneous amorphous state, and the infrared spectra revealed intermolecular interactions between PIR and CA, suggesting formation of a co-amorphous formulation of PIR and CA. The PIR-CA co-amorphous formulation exhibited no crystallization for 60 days at 4/25/40°C with silica gel. The PIR-CA co-amorphous formulation increased the solubility of PIR in polyethylene glycol 400 compared with that of the pure drug, and physical mixture (PM) of PIR and CA, confirming a supersaturated state in the formulation. The PIR-CA co-amorphous formulation demonstrated higher skin permeation than PIR alone or PM of PIR and CA, and the flux value was consistent with the degree of saturation. Thus, the increase in the skin permeation of PIR from the PIR-CA co-amorphous formulation directly depended on the increased thermodynamic activity by supersaturation in the absence of interactions between the drug and co-former in the vehicle.

Nanoemulsion Gel Formulation Optimization for Burn Wounds: Analysis of Rheological and Sensory Properties

Background: Despite the variety of treatment methods for wounds and scars after burns, there are still few effective preparations that can be used in a non-invasive therapy. Recent years have seen significant development of nanomedicine and nanotechnology in the treatment of infection in burn wounds. Proposal: The aim of this work was to develop a formula of a nanoemulsion gel for skin regeneration after burns, and to compare its rheological and sensory properties, as well as the effectiveness of post-burn skin regeneration with preparations available on the market. Methods: At the first stage of studies the composition and parameters of the preparation of sea buckthorn oil-based O/W (oil-in-water) nanoemulsion containing hyaluronic acid and aloe vera gel, as the active ingredients were optimized. Then, the nanoemulsion was added to the gel matrix composed of carbomer (1%) and water which resulted in receiving nanoemulgel. The physicochemical parameters of the obtained samples were characterized by means of dynamic light scattering method and scanning electron microscope. Rheological, sensory and influence on skin condition analysis was conducted for selected market products and developed nanoemulgel. Results: Nanoemulsion gel (d = 211 ± 1.4 nm, polydispersity index (PDI) = 0.205 ± 0.01) was characterized by semi-solid, non-sticky consistency, porous structure, law viscosity, good “primary” and “secondary” skin feelings and pleasant sensorical properties. It improves the condition of burned skin by creating a protective layer on the skin and increasing the hydration level. Conclusion: Due to the fact that the obtained nanoemulsion gel combines the advantages of an emulsion and a gel formulation, it can be a promising alternative to medical cosmetics available on the market, as a form of formulation used in skin care after burns.

Formulation of Creams Containing Spirulina Platensis Powder with Different Nonionic Surfactants for the Treatment of Acne Vulgaris

Natural products used in the treatment of acne vulgaris may be promising alternative therapies with fewer side effects and without antibiotic resistance. The objective of this study was to formulate creams containing Spirulina (Arthrospira) platensis to be used in acne therapy. Spirulina platensis belongs to the group of micro algae and contains valuable active ingredients. The aim was to select the appropriate nonionic surfactants for the formulations in order to enhance the diffusion of the active substance and to certify the antioxidant and antibacterial activity of Spirulina platensis-containing creams. Lyophilized Spirulina platensis powder (SPP) was dissolved in Transcutol HP (TC) and different types of nonionic surfactants (Polysorbate 60 (P60), Cremophor A6:A25 (CR) (1:1), Tefose 63 (TFS), or sucrose ester SP 70 (SP70)) were incorporated in creams as emulsifying agents. The drug release was evaluated by the Franz diffusion method and biocompatibility was tested on HaCaT cells. In vitro antioxidant assays were also performed, and superoxide dismutase (SOD) and 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) assays were executed. Antimicrobial activities of the selected compositions were checked against Staphylococcus aureus (S. aureus) and Cutibacteriumacnes (C. acnes) (formerly Propionibacterium acnes) with the broth microdilution method. Formulations containing SP 70 surfactant with TC showed the most favorable dissolution profiles and were found to be nontoxic. This composition also showed significant increase in free radical scavenger activity compared to the blank sample and the highest SOD enzyme activity was also detected after treatment with the cream samples. In antibacterial studies, significant differences were observed between the treated and control groups after an incubation time of 6 h.