Mycosporine-Like Amino Acids for Skin Photoprotection

Decoding Specificity of Cyanobacterial MysDs in Mycosporine-like Amino Acid Biosynthesis through Heterologous Expression in Saccharomyces cerevisiae

Mycosporine-like amino acids (MAAs) are potent natural UV-protectants, but their industrial production is hindered by efficiency and sustainability issues in large-scale extraction of native hosts. Heterologous biosynthesis in chassis organisms provides a promising alternative route, although the substrate promiscuity of the ATP-grasp ligase MysD complicates the biosynthesis of specific MAAs. In this study, we developed a Saccharomyces cerevisiae strain with enhanced capacity of producing mycosporine-glycine (MG). This strain serves as an efficient MysD expression platform that converts MG into shinorine and porphyra-334. Through structural modeling, site-directed mutagenesis, and mutant characterization, we identified two residues on the omega-loop of MysD involved in determining product specificity. We further characterized the product specificity of 20 MysDs from diverse cyanobacterial lineages and confirmed the residue pattern-product specificity correlation. Our findings provide guidance for screening, selecting, and designing novel MysDs for industrial-scale MAA production through heterologous expression.

Molecular evolution of ovothiol biosynthesis in animal life reveals diversity of the natural antioxidant ovothiols in Cnidaria

Sulfoxide synthase OvoA is the key enzyme involved in the biosynthesis of ovothiols (OSHs), secondary metabolites endowed with unique antioxidant properties. Understanding the evolution of such enzymes and the diversity of their metabolites should reveal fundamental mechanisms governing redox signaling and environmental adaptation. "Early-branching" animals such as Cnidaria display unique molecular diversity and symbiotic relationships responsible for the biosynthesis of natural products, however, they have been neglected in previous research on antioxidants and OSHs. In this work, we have integrated genome and transcriptome mining with biochemical analyses to study the evolution and diversification of OSHs biosynthesis in cnidarians. By tracing the history of the ovoA gene, we inferred its loss in the latest common ancestor of Medusozoa, followed by the acquisition of a unique ovoB/ovoA chimaeric gene in Hydrozoa, likely through a horizontal gene transfer from dinoflagellate donors. While Anthozoa (corals and anemones), bearing canonical ovoA genes, produced a striking variety of OSHs (A, B, and C), the multifunctional enzyme in Hydrozoa was related to OSH B biosynthesis, as shown in Clytia hemisphaerica. Surprisingly, the ovoA-lacking jellyfish Aurelia aurita and Pelagia noctiluca also displayed OSHs, and we provided evidence of their incorporation from external sources. Finally, transcriptome mining revealed ovoA conserved expression pattern during larval development from Cnidaria to more evolved organisms and its regulation by external stimuli, such as UV exposure. The results of our study shed light on the origin and diversification of OSH biosynthesis in basal animals and highlight the importance of redox-active molecules from ancient metazoans as cnidarians to vertebrates.

Direct Evidence of Microbial Sunscreen Production by Scum-Forming Cyanobacteria in the Baltic Sea

Mycosporine-like amino acids are water-soluble secondary metabolites that protect photosynthetic microorganisms from ultraviolet radiation. Here, we present direct evidence for the production of these compounds in surface scums of cyanobacteria along the Baltic Sea coast. We collected 59 environmental samples from the southern coast of Finland during the summers of 2021 and 2022 and analysed them using high-resolution liquid chromatography-mass spectrometry. Our results revealed the presence of microbial sunscreens in nearly all surface scum samples. Mycosporine-like amino acids are synthesised through the coordinated action of four biosynthetic enzymes encoded in a compact biosynthetic pathway. Bioinformatics analysis of the mysB biosynthetic gene from a surface scum indicated that the cyanobacteria responsible for production belonged to the Anabaena/Dolichospermum/Aphanizomenon species complex. We mapped the distribution of biosynthetic enzymes onto a phylogenomic tree, utilising 120 bacterial single-copy conserved genes from 101 draft or complete genomes within the species complex. This analysis showed that 48% of identified species possess the ability to produce these compounds, with biosynthetic pathways being most common in Dolichospermum and Aphanizomenon strains. We detected the production of porphyra-334 and shinorine, two widely reported family members, in Dolichospermum strains isolated from the Gulf of Finland's surface layer. The estimated content of porphyra-334 in Dolichospermum sp. UHCC 0684 was 7.4 mg per gram dry weight. Our results suggest that bloom-forming cyanobacteria could be a potential source of these compounds for cosmetic and biotechnological applications and may play a significant role in cyanobacterial bloom formation.

Characterizing the Ultraviolet (UV) Screening Ability of L-5-Sulfanylhistidine Derivatives on Human Dermal Fibroblasts

Using sunscreens is one of the most widespread measures to protect human skin from sun ultraviolet radiation (UVR) damage. However, several studies have highlighted the toxicity of certain inorganic and organic UV filters used in sunscreens for the marine environment and human health. An alternative strategy may involve the use of natural products of marine origin to counteract UVR-mediated damage. Ovothiols are sulfur-containing amino acids produced by marine invertebrates, microalgae, and bacteria, endowed with unique antioxidant and UV-absorption properties. This study aimed to evaluate the protective effect of synthetic L-5-sulfanyl histidine derivatives, inspired by natural ovothiols, on human dermal fibroblasts (HDFs) upon UVA exposure. By using a custom-made experimental set-up to assess the UV screening ability, we measured the levels of cytosolic and mitochondrial reactive oxygen species (ROS), as well as cell viability and apoptosis in HDFs, in the presence of tested compounds, after UVA exposure, using flow cytometry assays with specific fluorescent probes. The results show that L-5-sulfanyl histidine derivatives display a UV screening capacity and prevent loss in cell viability, the production of cytosolic and mitochondrial ROS induced by UVA exposure in HDFs, and subsequent apoptosis. Overall, this study sheds light on the potential applications of marine-inspired sulfur-containing amino acids in developing alternative eco-safe sunscreens for UVR skin protection.

Marine cosmetics and the blue bioeconomy: From sourcing to success stories

As the global population continues to grow, so does the demand for longer, healthier lives and environmentally responsible choices. Consumers are increasingly drawn to naturally sourced products with proven health and wellbeing benefits. The marine environment presents a promising yet underexplored resource for the cosmetics industry, offering bioactive compounds with the potential for safe and biocompatible ingredients. This manuscript provides a comprehensive overview of the potential of marine organisms for cosmetics production, highlighting marine-derived compounds and their applications in skin/hair/oral-care products, cosmeceuticals and more. It also lays down critical safety considerations and addresses the methodologies for sourcing marine compounds, including harvesting, the biorefinery concept, use of systems biology for enhanced product development, and the relevant regulatory landscape. The review is enriched by three case studies: design of macroalgal skincare products in Iceland, establishment of a microalgal cosmetics spin-off in Italy, and the utilization of marine proteins for cosmeceutical applications.

Novel synthetic UV screen compounds inspired in mycosporine-like amino acids (MAAs): Antioxidant capacity, photoprotective properties and toxicity

The combination of environmental stress on the ozone layer, climate change and a greater sun exposure due to outdoor habits has led to an increase in skin cancer cases and other health issues related with UV radiation. Researchers are searching for new alternative UV filters that could protect our skin from the deleterious effects of UV radiation while also presenting low toxicity and biodegradable character (unlike the UV filters currently available in the market). In this work, two compounds inspired in the natural oxo-mycosporine-like amino acids (MAAs) have been synthesized and their antioxidant and photoprotective properties, as well as their in vitro and in vivo toxicity effects were evaluated. Both compounds featured a strong UV-B absorption together with a high antioxidant capacity, close to 50 μmol TE g-1 DW in the ABTS assay. Compound 1 presented an absorption peak at 285-300 nm, whereas compound 2 showed a wider band with a peak around 295-305 nm and two shoulders at 318 and 342 nm. The addition of 5 % of compound 2 to galenic formulas increased the photoprotection, reaching SPF values of 4. Both compounds were stable under UV radiation exposure. Regarding toxicity, the synthetic compounds did not show cytotoxic activity against healthy human cell lines or significant toxicity over zebrafish embryos. Compound 1 showed a complete lack of toxicity over zebrafish, although compound 2 showed slight, not-significant effects on viability, hatching, pericardial stability or body axis formation over 5 mg mL-1. Moreover, compound 1 presented relatively antitumoral activities against HCT-116 cells (selective index:1.49). The relevant antioxidant and photoprotective ability together with the great advantage provided by the reduced toxicity to health cells or zebrafish embryos, make these compounds promising candidates to be exploited as functional ingredients with specific applications in the biotechnological or pharma sector.

Prospecting bioactivity in Antarctic algae: A review of extracts, isolated compounds and their effects

Algae and its metabolites have been a popular subject of research in numerous fields over the years. Various reviews have been written on algal bioactive components, but a specific focus on Antarctic-derived algae is seldom reviewed. Due to the extreme climate conditions of Antarctica, it is hypothesized that the acclimatized algae may have given rise to a new set of bioactive compounds as a result of adaptation. Although most studies done on Antarctic algae are based on ecological and physiological studies, as well as in the field of nanomaterial synthesis, some studies point out the potential therapeutic properties of these compounds. As an effort to shed light on a different application of Antarctic algae, this review focuses on evaluating its different medicinal properties, including antimicrobial, anticancer, antioxidative, anti-inflammatory, and skin protective effects.

Reversing the directionality of reactions between non-oxidative pentose phosphate pathway and glycolytic pathway boosts mycosporine-like amino acid production in Saccharomyces cerevisiae

BACKGROUND

Mycosporine-like amino acids (MAAs) are a class of strongly UV-absorbing compounds produced by cyanobacteria, algae and corals and are promising candidates for natural sunscreen components. Low MAA yields from natural sources, coupled with difficulties in culturing its native producers, have catalyzed synthetic biology-guided approaches to produce MAAs in tractable microbial hosts like Escherichia coli, Saccharomyces cerevisiae and Corynebacterium glutamicum. However, the MAA titres obtained in these hosts are still low, necessitating a thorough understanding of cellular factors regulating MAA production.

RESULTS

To delineate factors that regulate MAA production, we constructed a shinorine (mycosporine-glycine-serine) producing yeast strain by expressing the four MAA biosynthetic enzymes from Nostoc punctiforme in Saccharomyces cerevisiae. We show that shinorine is produced from the pentose phosphate pathway intermediate sedoheptulose 7-phosphate (S7P), and not from the shikimate pathway intermediate 3-dehydroquinate (3DHQ) as previously suggested. Deletions of transaldolase (TAL1) and phosphofructokinase (PFK1/PFK2) genes boosted S7P/shinorine production via independent mechanisms. Unexpectedly, the enhanced S7P/shinorine production in the PFK mutants was not entirely due to increased flux towards the pentose phosphate pathway. We provide multiple lines of evidence in support of a reversed pathway between glycolysis and the non-oxidative pentose phosphate pathway (NOPPP) that boosts S7P/shinorine production in the phosphofructokinase mutant cells.

CONCLUSION

Reversing the direction of flux between glycolysis and the NOPPP offers a novel metabolic engineering strategy in Saccharomyces cerevisiae.

Insights on the UV-Screening Potential of Marine-Inspired Thiol Compounds

One of the major threats to skin aging and the risk of developing skin cancer is excessive exposure to the sun's ultraviolet radiation (UVR). The use of sunscreens containing different synthetic, organic, and inorganic UVR filters is one of the most widespread defensive measures. However, increasing evidence suggests that some of these compounds are potentially eco-toxic, causing subtle damage to the environment and to marine ecosystems. Resorting to natural products produced in a wide range of marine species to counteract UVR-mediated damage could be an alternative strategy. The present work investigates marine-inspired thiol compounds, derivatives of ovothiol A, isolated from marine invertebrates and known to exhibit unique antioxidant properties. However, their potential use as photoprotective molecules for biocompatible sunscreens and anti-photo aging formulations has not yet been investigated. Here, we report on the UVR absorption properties, photostability, and in vitro UVA shielding activities of two synthetic ovothiol derivatives, 5-thiohistidine and iso-ovothiol A, by spectrophotometric and fluorimetric analysis. We found that the UVA properties of these compounds increase upon exposure to UVA and that their absorption activity is able to screen UVA rays, thus reducing the oxidative damage induced to proteins and lipids. The results of this work demonstrate that these novel marine-inspired compounds could represent an alternative eco-friendly approach for UVR skin protection.

Applications of mycosporine-like amino acids beyond photoprotection

Recent years have seen a lot of interest in mycosporine-like amino acids (MAAs) because of their alleged potential as a natural microbial sunscreen. Since chemical ultraviolet (UV) absorbers are unsafe for long-term usage, the demand for natural UV-absorbing substances has increased. In this situation, MAA is a strong contender for an eco-friendly UV protector. The capacity of MAAs to absorb light in the UV-A (320-400 nm) and UV-B (280-320 nm) range without generating free radicals is potentially relevant in photoprotection. The usage of MAAs for purposes other than photoprotection has now shifted in favor of medicinal applications. Aside from UV absorption, MAAs also have anti-oxidant, anti-inflammatory, wound-healing, anti-photoaging, cell proliferation stimulators, anti-cancer agents, and anti-adipogenic properties. Recently, MAAs application to combat SARS-CoV-2 infection was also investigated. In this review article, we highlight the biomedical applications of MAAs that go beyond photoprotection, which can help in utilizing the MAAs as promising bioactive compounds in both pharmaceutical and cosmetic applications.

Isolation and Structure Elucidation of Novel Mycosporine-like Amino Acids from the Two Intertidal Red Macroalgae Bostrychia scorpioides and Catenella caespitosa

This study presents a phytochemical survey of two common intertidal red algal species, Bostrychia scorpioides and Catenella caespitosa, regarding their MAA (mycosporine-like amino acid) composition, which are known as biogenic sunscreen compounds. Six novel MAAs from Bostrychia scorpioides named bostrychines and two novel MAAs from Catenella caespitosa named catenellines were isolated using a protocol which included silica gel column chromatography, flash chromatography on reversed phase material and semipreparative HPLC (High-Performance Liquid Chromatography). The structure of the novel MAAs was elucidated using NMR (Nuclear Magnetic Resonance) and HR-MS (High-Resolution Mass Spectrometry), and their absolute configuration was confirmed by ECD (Electronic Circular Dichroism). All isolated MAAs possess a cyclohexenimine scaffold, and the metabolites from B. scorpioides are related to the known MAAs bostrychines A-F, which contain glutamine, glutamic acid and/or threonine in their side chains. The new MAAs from C. caespitosa contain taurine, an amino sulfonic acid that is also present in another MAA isolated from this species, namely, catenelline. Previous and new data confirm that intertidal red algae are chemically rich in MAAs, which explains their high tolerance against biologically harmful ultraviolet radiation.

Protective Effect of Mycosporine-like Amino Acids Isolated from an Antarctic Diatom on UVB-Induced Skin Damage

Although it is well recognized that mycosporine-like amino acids (MAAs) are ultraviolet (UV) protective agents that can reduce UV damage, the specific biological mechanism of its role in the skin remains unclear. In this study, we investigated the effect of MAAs extracted from Antarctic diatom Phaeodactylum tricornutum ICE-H on UVB-induced skin damage using a mice model. The MAAs components identified by liquid chromatography-tandem mass spectrometry included 4-deoxygadusol, shinorine, and porphyra-334, which were purified using a Supledean Carboxen1000 solid phase extraction column. The antioxidant activities of these MAA compounds were tested in vitro. For UVB-induced skin photodamage in mice, MAAs alleviated skin swelling and epidermal thickening in this study. We detected the content of reactive oxygen species (ROS), malondialdehyde, and collagen in skin tissue. In addition, quantitative real-time polymerase chain reaction was used to detect nuclear factor-κB (NF-κB), tumor necrosis factor α, interleukin-1β, cyclooxygenase-2, mitogen activated protein kinase (MAPK) family (extracellular signal-regulated kinase, c-Jun amino-terminal kinase, and p38 kinase), and matrix metalloproteinases. The expression of these cytokines and enzymes is related to inflammatory responses and collagen degradation. In comparison to the model group without MAA treatment, the MAA component decreased the concentration of ROS, the degree of oxidative stress in the skin tissue, and the expression of genes involved in the NF-κB and MAPK pathways. In summary, these MAA components extracted from Phaeodactylum tricornutum ICE-H protected against UVB-induced skin damage by inhibiting ROS generation, relieving skin inflammation, and slowing down collagen degradation, suggesting that these MAA components are effective cosmetic candidate molecules for the protection and therapy of UVB damage.

Recent Advances and Future Prospects of Mycosporine-like Amino Acids

Mycosporine-like amino acids (MAAs) are a class of water-soluble active substances produced by various aquatic organisms. However, due to the limitations of low accumulation of MAAs in organisms, the cumbersome extraction process, difficult identification, and high cost, MAAs have not yet been widely used in human life. Recently, there has been an emergence of heterologous synthesis for MAAs, making increasing yield the key to the quantification and application of MAAs. This review summarizes the latest research progress of MAAs, including: (1) introducing the biodistribution of MAAs and the content differences among different species to provide a reference for the selection of research subjects; (2) elaborating the species and molecular information of MAAs; (3) dissecting the synthesis mechanism and sorting out the synthesis pathways of various MAAs; (4) summarizing the methods of extraction and identification, summarizing the advantages and disadvantages, and providing a reference for the optimization of extraction protocols; (5) examining the heterologous synthesis method; and (6) summarizing the physiological functions of MAAs. This paper comprehensively updates the latest research status of MAAs and the various problems that need to be addressed, especially emphasizing the potential advantages of heterologous synthesis in the future production of MAAs.

The response of aquatic ecosystems to the interactive effects of stratospheric ozone depletion, UV radiation, and climate change

Variations in stratospheric ozone and changes in the aquatic environment by climate change and human activity are modifying the exposure of aquatic ecosystems to UV radiation. These shifts in exposure have consequences for the distributions of species, biogeochemical cycles, and services provided by aquatic ecosystems. This Quadrennial Assessment presents the latest knowledge on the multi-faceted interactions between the effects of UV irradiation and climate change, and other anthropogenic activities, and how these conditions are changing aquatic ecosystems. Climate change results in variations in the depth of mixing, the thickness of ice cover, the duration of ice-free conditions and inputs of dissolved organic matter, all of which can either increase or decrease exposure to UV radiation. Anthropogenic activities release oil, UV filters in sunscreens, and microplastics into the aquatic environment that are then modified by UV radiation, frequently amplifying adverse effects on aquatic organisms and their environments. The impacts of these changes in combination with factors such as warming and ocean acidification are considered for aquatic micro-organisms, macroalgae, plants, and animals (floating, swimming, and attached). Minimising the disruptive consequences of these effects on critical services provided by the world's rivers, lakes and oceans (freshwater supply, recreation, transport, and food security) will not only require continued adherence to the Montreal Protocol but also a wider inclusion of solar UV radiation and its effects in studies and/or models of aquatic ecosystems under conditions of the future global climate.

Resolving Confusion Surrounding d-Ala-d-Ala Ligase Catalysis in Cyanobacterial Mycosporine-Like Amino Acid (MAA) Biosynthesis

Mycosporine-like amino acids (MAAs) are natural UV-absorbing sunscreens that evolved in cyanobacteria and algae to palliate harmful effects from obligatory exposure to solar radiation. Multiple lines of evidence prove that in cyanobacteria all MAAs are derived from mycosporine-glycine, which is typically modified by an ATP-dependent ligase encoded by the gene mysD. The function of the mysD ligase has been experimentally described but haphazardly named based solely upon sequence similarity to the d-alanine-d-alanine ligase of bacterial peptidoglycan biosynthesis. Combining phylogeny and alpha-fold tertiary protein structure prediction unambiguously distinguished mysD from d-alanine-d-alanine ligase. The renaming of mysD to mycosporine-glycine-amine ligase (MG-amine ligase) using recognised enzymology rules of nomenclature is, therefore, proposed, and considers relaxed specificity for several different amino acid substrates. The evolutionary and ecological context of MG-amine ligase catalysis merits wider appreciation especially when considering exploiting cyanobacteria for biotechnology, for example, producing mixtures of MAAs with enhanced optical or antioxidant properties.

Exploring Mycosporine-like Amino Acid UV-Absorbing Natural Products for a New Generation of Environmentally Friendly Sunscreens

Human skin needs additional protection from damaging ultraviolet radiation (UVR: 280-400 nm). Harmful UVR exposure leads to DNA damage and the development of skin cancer. Available sunscreens offer chemical protection from detrimental sun radiation to a certain extent. However, many synthetic sunscreens do not provide sufficient UVR protection due to the lack of photostability of their UV-absorbing active ingredients and/or the lack of ability to prevent the formation of free radicals, inevitably leading to skin damage. In addition, synthetic sunscreens may negatively affect human skin, causing irritation, accelerating skin aging and even resulting in allergic reactions. Beyond the potential negative effect on human health, some synthetic sunscreens have been shown to have a harmful impact on the environment. Consequently, identifying photostable, biodegradable, non-toxic, and renewable natural UV filters is imperative to address human health needs and provide a sustainable environmental solution. In nature, marine, freshwater, and terrestrial organisms are protected from harmful UVR through several important photoprotective mechanisms, including the synthesis of UV-absorbing compounds such as mycosporine-like amino acids (MAAs). Beyond MAAs, several other promising, natural UV-absorbing products could be considered for the future development of natural sunscreens. This review investigates the damaging impact of UVR on human health and the necessity of using sunscreens for UV protection, specifically UV-absorbing natural products that are more environmentally friendly than synthetic UV filters. Critical challenges and limitations related to using MAAs in sunscreen formulations are also evaluated. Furthermore, we explain how the genetic diversity of MAA biosynthetic pathways may be linked to their bioactivities and assess MAAs' potential for applications in human health.

Exploring the Relationship between Biosynthetic Gene Clusters and Constitutive Production of Mycosporine-like Amino Acids in Brazilian Cyanobacteria

Cyanobacteria are oxygenic phototrophic prokaryotes that have evolved to produce ultraviolet-screening mycosporine-like amino acids (MAAs) to lessen harmful effects from obligatory exposure to solar UV radiation. The cyanobacterial MAA biosynthetic cluster is formed by a gene encoding 2-epi-5-epi-valiolone synthase (EVS) located immediately upstream from an O-methyltransferase (OMT) encoding gene, which together biosynthesize the expected MAA precursor 4-deoxygadusol. Accordingly, these genes are typically absent in non-producers. In this study, the relationship between gene cluster architecture and constitutive production of MAAs was evaluated in cyanobacteria isolated from various Brazilian biomes. Constitutive production of MAAs was only detected in strains where genes formed a co-linear cluster. Expectedly, this production was enhanced upon exposure of the strains to UV irradiance and by using distinct culture media. Constitutive production of MAAs was not detected in all other strains and, unexpectedly, production could not be induced by exposure to UV irradiation or changing growth media. Other photoprotection strategies which might be employed by these MAA non-producing strains are discussed. The evolutionary and ecological significance of gene order conservation warrants closer experimentation, which may provide a first insight into regulatory interactions of genes encoding enzymes for MAA biosynthesis.

Bioactive compounds by microalgae and potentials for the management of some human disease conditions

Microalgae biomasses are excellent sources of diverse bioactive compounds such as lipids, polysaccharides, carotenoids, vitamins, phenolics and phycobiliproteins. Large-scale production of these bioactive substances would require microalgae cultivation either in open-culture systems or closed-culture systems. Some of these bioactive compounds (such as polysaccharides, phycobiliproteins and lipids) are produced during their active growth phase. They appear to have antibacterial, antifungal, antiviral, antioxidative, anticancer, neuroprotective and chemo-preventive activities. These properties confer on microalgae the potential for use in the treatment and/or management of several neurologic and cell dysfunction-related disease conditions, including Alzheimer's disease (AD), AIDS and COVID-19, as shown in this review. Although several health benefits have been highlighted, there appears to be a consensus in the literature that the field of microalgae is still fledgling, and more research needs to be carried out to ascertain the mechanisms of action that underpin the effectiveness of microalgal compounds. In this review, two biosynthetic pathways were modeled to help elucidate the mode of action of the bioactive compounds from microalgae and their products. These are carotenoid and phycobilin proteins biosynthetic pathways. The education of the public on the importance of microalgae backed with empirical scientific evidence will go a long way to ensure that the benefits from research investigations are quickly rolled out. The potential application of these microalgae to some human disease conditions was highlighted.

Microalgae growth rate multivariable mathematical model for biomass production

Background

The use of microalgae has been emerging as a potential technology to reduce greenhouse gases and bioremediate polluted water and produce high-value products as pigments, phytohormones, biofuels, and bioactive compounds. The improvement in biomass production is a priority to make the technology implementation profitable in every application mentioned before.

Methods

The present study was conducted to explore the use of microalgae from genus Chlorella and Tetradesmus for the generation of substances of interest with UV absorption capacity. A mathematical model was developed for both microalgae to characterize the production of microalgae biomass considering the effects of light intensity, temperature, and nutrient consumption. The model was programmed in MATLAB software, where the three parameters were incorporated into a single specific growth rate equation.

Results

It was found that the optimal environmental conditions for each genus (Chlorella T=36°C, and I<787 μmol/m²s; Tetradesmus T=23°C and I<150 μmol/m²s), as well as the optimal specific growth rate depending on the personalized values of the three parameters.

Conclussion

This work could be used in the production of microalgae biomass for the design and development of topical applications to replace commercial options based on compounds that compromise health and have a harmful impact on the environment.

Saccorhiza polyschides-A Source of Natural Active Ingredients for Greener Skincare Formulations

The growing knowledge about the harmful effects caused by some synthetic ingredients present in skincare products has led to an extensive search for natural bioactives. Thus, this study aimed to investigate the dermatological potential of five fractions (F1-F5), obtained by a sequential extraction procedure, from the brown seaweed Saccorhiza polyschides. The antioxidant (DPPH, FRAP, ORAC and TPC), anti-enzymatic (collagenase, elastase, hyaluronidase and tyrosinase), antimicrobial (Staphylococcus epidermidis, Cutibacterium acnes and Malassezia furfur), anti-inflammatory (nitric oxide, tumor necrosis factor-α, interleukin-6 and interleukin-10) and photoprotective (reactive oxygen species) properties of all fractions were evaluated. The ethyl acetate fraction (F3) displayed the highest antioxidant and photoprotective capacity, reducing ROS levels in UVA/B-exposed 3T3 fibroblasts, and the highest anti-enzymatic capacity against tyrosinase (IC50 value: 89.1 µg/mL). The solid water-insoluble fraction (F5) revealed the greatest antimicrobial activity against C. acnes growth (IC50 value: 12.4 µg/mL). Furthermore, all fractions demonstrated anti-inflammatory potential, reducing TNF-α and IL-6 levels in RAW 264.7 macrophages induced with lipopolysaccharides. Chemical analysis of the S. polyschides fractions by NMR revealed the presence of different classes of compounds, including lipids, polyphenols and sugars. The results highlight the potential of S. polyschides to be incorporated into new nature-based skincare products.

Molecular mechanisms of Marine-Derived Natural Compounds as photoprotective strategies

Excessive exposure of the skin to ultraviolet radiation (UVR) causes oxidative stress, inflammation, immunosuppression, apoptosis, and changes in the extracellular matrix, which lead to the development of photoaging and photodamage of skin. At the molecular level, these pathological changes are mainly caused by the activation of related protein kinases and downstream transcription pathways, the increase of matrix metalloproteinase, the formation of reactive oxygen species, and the combined action of cytokines and inflammatory mediators. At present, the photostability, toxicity, and damage to marine ecosystems of most sun protection products in the market have affected their efficacy and safety. Another way is to use natural products produced by various marine species. Marine organisms have evolved a variety of molecular strategies to protect themselves from the harmful effects of ultraviolet radiation, and their unique chemicals have attracted more and more attention in the research of photoprotection and photoaging resistance. This article provides an extensive description of the recent literature on the potential of Marine-Derived Natural Compounds (MDNCs) as photoprotective and photoprotective agents. It reviews the positive effects of MDNCs in counteracting UV-induced oxidative stress, inflammation, DNA damage, apoptosis, immunosuppression, and extracellular matrix degradation. Some MDNCs have the potential to develop feasible solutions for related phenomena, such as photoaging and photodamage caused by UVR.

Photoprotective effect of 18β-glycyrrhetinic acid derivatives against ultra violet (UV)-B-Induced skin aging

Excessive exposure to sun can harm the skin, causing sunburn, photo-aging, and even skin cancer. Different benzylidene derivatives (A02-A18 and A19-A34) of 18β-Glycyrrhetinic acid (A01) were designed and synthesized in an effort to discover photo-protective compounds against UV-B -induced skin aging. The synthesized derivatives were subjected to cellular viability test using MTT assay in primary Human Dermal Fibroblasts (HDFs). The results indicate A01, A05, A15, A22, A23, A25, A26, A28, A29, A32, A33, and A34 significantly enhanced cell viability of HDFs. Compound A33 at 10 and 25 μM showed a significant photo-protective effect against UV-B (10 mJ/cm²) -induced damage in HDFs. A33 at 25 μM significantly restored the UV-B -induced damage via its potent anti-oxidant, anti-apoptotic effects and ability to prevent collagen degradation. These findings pave the way for further development of A33 as a photo-protective skin agent.

Recent developments in biorefining of macroalgae metabolites and their industrial applications - A circular economy approach

The macroalgal industry is expanding, and the quest for novel ingredients to improve and develop innovative products is crucial. Consumers are increasingly looking for natural-derived ingredients in cosmetic products that have been proven to be effective and safe. Macroalgae-derived compounds have growing popularity in skincare products as they are natural, abundant, biocompatible, and renewable. Due to their high biomass yields, rapid growth rates, and cultivation process, they are gaining widespread recognition as potentially sustainable resources better suited for biorefinery processes. This review demonstrates macroalgae metabolites and their industrial applications in moisturizers, anti-aging, skin whitening, hair, and oral care products. These chemicals can be obtained in combination with energy products to increase the value of macroalgae from an industrial perspective with a zero-waste approach by linking multiple refineries. The key challenges, bottlenecks, and future perspectives in the operation and outlook of macroalgal biorefineries were also discussed.

Nutraceuticals: Pharmacologically Active Potent Dietary Supplements

A growing demand exists for nutraceuticals, which seem to reside in the grey area between pharmaceuticals and food. Nutraceuticals, up today, do not have a specific definition distinct from those of other food-derived categories, e.g., food supplements, herbal products, functional foods, and fortified foods. They have, however, a pharmacological beneficial effect on health. Many studies have been recently addressed to assess their safety, efficacy, and regulation. The object of writing this review article is that we need to pay more attention to natural and organic foods. The bases of nutraceutical components (food supplements) are known for potent and powerful clinical evidence effects on the treatment of hypertension and type 2 diabetes.

Up-to-Date Overview of the Use of Natural Ingredients in Sunscreens

The photoprotective skincare segment is in high demand to meet consumer concerns on UV-induced skin damage, with a recent trend towards sunscreen alternatives with a natural origin. In this study, the use of natural ingredients, either from terrestrial or marine origin, in a panel of 444 sunscreen commercial formulations (2021) was analyzed. Ingredients from terrestrial organisms represent the large majority found in the analyzed sunscreen formulations (48%), whereas marine ingredients are present only in 13% of the analyzed products. A deeper analysis regarding the most prevalent families of ingredients from terrestrial and marine organisms used as top ingredients is also presented, as well as their mechanisms of action. This study provides an up-to-date overview of the sunscreen market regarding the use of natural ingredients, which is of relevance for scientists involved in the development of new sunscreens to identify opportunities for innovation.

Molecular Design Learned from the Natural Product Porphyra-334: Molecular Generation via Chemical Variational Autoencoder versus Database Mining via Similarity Search, A Comparative Study

A comparative study is presented. The method via chemical variational autoencoder (VAE) and the method via similarity search are compared, focusing on their generation ability for new functional molecular design. Focusing on the natural porphyra-334 as a model molecule, we generated three groups: molecules of mycosporine-like amino acids (MAAs) as seeds (G SEEDS ), molecules generated via chemical VAE (G VAE ) and molecules gathered via similarity search (G SIM ). The number of molecules that satisfy the condition for the light absorption ability of porphyra-334 in G SEEDS , G VAE , and G SIM are 52, 138, and 6, respectively. The method via chemical VAE shows a promising potential for future molecular design. By using quantum chemistry wave function properties for chemical VAE, we find new molecules that are comparable to porphyra-334, including some with unexpected geometries. At the end, we show a group of molecules found with this method.

Triplet-Energy Quenching Functions of Antioxidant Molecules

UV-like DNA damage is created in the dark by chemiexcitation, in which UV-activated enzymes generate reactive oxygen and nitrogen species that create a dioxetane on melanin. Thermal cleavage creates an electronically excited triplet-state carbonyl whose high energy transfers to DNA. Screening natural compounds for the ability to quench this energy identified polyenes, polyphenols, mycosporine-like amino acids, and related compounds better known as antioxidants. To eliminate false positives such as ROS and RNS scavengers, we then used the generator of triplet-state acetone, tetramethyl-1,2-dioxetane (TMD), to excite the triplet-energy reporter 9,10-dibromoanthracene-2-sulfonate (DBAS). Quenching measured as reduction in DBAS luminescence revealed three clusters of 50% inhibitory concentration, ~50 μM, 200–500 μM, and >600 μM, with the former including sorbate, ferulic acid, and resveratrol. Representative triplet-state quenchers prevented chemiexcitation-induced “dark” cyclobutane pyrimidine dimers (dCPD) in DNA and in UVA-irradiated melanocytes. We conclude that (i) the delocalized pi electron cloud that stabilizes the electron-donating activity of many common antioxidants allows the same molecule to prevent an electronically excited species from transferring its triplet-state energy to targets such as DNA and (ii) the most effective class of triplet-state quenchers appear to operate by energy diversion instead of electron donation and dissipate that energy by isomerization.

Comparative Study of Three Raspberry Cultivar (Rubus idaeus L.) Leaves Metabolites: Metabolome Profiling and Antioxidant Activities

Raspberry (Rubus idaeus L.), known as one of the famous healthy fruits an d are consumed fresh or processed products all over the world. The antioxidation activity of raspberry fruits as well as leaves have been widely investigated. To better understand the metabolite accumulation mechanisms and to develop different functional cultivars, we performed a non-targeted metabolomics analysis using LC-MS/MS to investigate the contents of existing components from three raspberry cultivars, Autumn Britten, Autumn Bliss, and Red Autumn leaves, respectively. The results show multiple differentially accumulated metabolites among three cultivars, especially for the lipids (α-linolenic acid and eicosatetraenoic acid), amino acids and their derivatives (L-cysteine, Phenylalanine), flavonoids (Kaempferol 3-O-rhamnoside-7-O-glucoside, Quercetin 3-glucoside), and vitamins (Biotin, Thiamine, Vitamin K2), etc. The in vitro cellular antioxidant activities of three raspberry cultivars leaves ethanol extracts (RLEE) were also characterized. Through comparison the superoxide dismutase (SOD), glutathione (GSH), catalase (CAT), and reactive oxygen species (ROS) levels before or after RLEE protection of L929 fibroblast cells upon excessive UVB exposure, we evaluated the antioxidation potentials for all three cultivar RLEEs. It turns out the raspberry Autumn Britten leaf extract holds the greatest potential for protecting the L929 fibroblast cells from UVB induced damage. Our study provides theoretical support for screening of active metabolites from three raspberry cultivars leaves, spanning metabolites’ accumulation to cell damage protection, which could be used to refine bioactivity assessment for different raspberry cultivars suitable for antioxidant products extraction.

Coral holobionts and biotechnology: from Blue Economy to coral reef conservation

Corals are of ecological and economic importance, providing habitat for species and contributing to coastal protection, fisheries, and tourism. Their biotechnological potential is also increasingly recognized. Particularly, the production of pharmaceutically interesting compounds by corals and their microbial associates stimulated natural product-based drug discovery. The efficient light distribution by coral skeletons for optimal photosynthesis by algal symbionts has led to 3D-printed bionic corals that may be used to upscale micro-algal cultivation for bioenergy generation. However, corals are under threat from climate change and pollution, and biotechnological approaches to increase their resilience, like 'probiotics' and 'assisted evolution', are being evaluated. In this review, we summarize the recent biotechnological developments related to corals with an emphasis on coral conservation, drug discovery and bioenergy.

Microalgae as a Source of Mycosporine-like Amino Acids (MAAs); Advances and Future Prospects

Mycosporine-like amino acids (MAAs), are secondary metabolites, first reported in 1960 and found to be associated with the light-stimulated sporulation in terrestrial fungi. MAAs are nitrogenous, low molecular weight, water soluble compounds, which are highly stable with cyclohexenone or cycloheximine rings to store the free radicals. Microalgae are considered as a good source of different kinds of MAAs, which in turn, has its own applications in various industries due to its UV absorbing, anti-oxidant and therapeutic properties. Microalgae can be easily cultivated and requires a very short generation time, which makes them environment friendly source of biomolecules such as mycosporine-like amino acids. Modifying the cultural conditions along withmanipulation of genes associated with mycosporine-like amino acids biosynthesis can help to enhance MAAs synthesis and, in turn, can make microalgae suitable bio-refinery for large scale MAAs production. This review focuses on properties and therapeutic applications of mycosporine like amino acids derived from microalgae. Further attention is drawn on various culture and genetic engineering approaches to enhance the MAAs production in microalgae.

Red Seaweed-Derived Compounds as a Potential New Approach for Acne Vulgaris Care

Acne vulgaris (AV) is a chronic skin disease of the pilosebaceous unit affecting both adolescents and adults. Its pathophysiology includes processes of inflammation, increased keratinization, sebum production, hormonal dysregulation, and bacterial Cutibacterium acnes proliferation. Common AV has been treated with antibiotics since the 1960s, but strain resistance has emerged and is of paramount concern. Macroalgae are known producers of substances with bioactive properties, including anti-viral, antibacterial, antioxidant, and anti-inflammatory properties, among several others. In particular, red algae are rich in bioactive compounds such as polysaccharides, phenolic compounds, lipids, sterols, alkaloids, and terpenoids, conferring them antioxidant, antimicrobial, and anti-inflammatory activities, among others. Thus, the exploration of compounds from marine resources can be an appealing approach to discover new treatment options against AV. The aim of this work is to provide an overview of the current knowledge of the potentialities of red macroalgae in the treatment of AV by reviewing the main therapeutic targets of this disease, and then the existence of compounds or extracts with bioactive properties against them.

Dermocosmetic applications of microalgal pigments

Among photosynthetic microorganisms, Cyanobacteria and Microalgae species have been highly studied thank to their high value-added compounds for several industrial applications. Thus, their production is increasing in the last decade to produce raw material for cosmetics. In fact, the daily routine includes the use of cosmetics and sunscreens to protect against the environmental changes, mainly the increment of ultraviolet (UV) radiation rate with a consequent skin damage and premature aging due to this overexposure. As it is well discussed, chemical UV filters are extensively incorporated into sunscreens formulas; however, they can induce allergenic reactions as well. For these reasons, some pigments derived from microalgae, such as astaxanthin, lutein, β-carotene as well as other biocompounds are now well described in the literature as well as biotechnologically manufactured as natural ingredients to be incorporated into skin care products with multifunctional benefits even for sunscreen purposes. Hence, this investigation summarizes the recent studies about the main pigments from photosynthetic microorganisms' biomasses as well as their uses in dermocosmetics with novel attributes, such as anti-aging agents, makeups, skin lightening and whitening, among others.

Sunscreens and Photoaging: A Review of Current Literature

Sunscreens have been on the market for many decades as a means of protection against ultraviolet-induced erythema. Over the years, evidence has also shown their efficacy in the prevention of photoaging, dyspigmentation, DNA damage, and photocarcinogenesis. In the USA, most broad-spectrum sunscreens provide protection against ultraviolet B (UVB) radiation and short-wavelength ultraviolet A (UVA) radiation. Evidence suggests that visible light and infrared light may play a role in photoaging and should be considered when choosing a sunscreen. Currently, there is a paucity of US FDA-approved filters that provide protection against long UVA (> 370 nm) and none against visible light. Additionally, various sunscreen additives such as antioxidants and photolyases have also been reported to protect against and possibly reverse signs of photoaging. This literature review evaluates the utility of sunscreen in protecting against photoaging and further explores the requirements for an ideal sunscreen.

Bioactive Metabolites Produced by Cyanobacteria for Growth Adaptation and Their Pharmacological Properties

Cyanobacteria are the most abundant oxygenic photosynthetic organisms inhabiting various ecosystems on earth. As with all other photosynthetic organisms, cyanobacteria release oxygen as a byproduct during photosynthesis. In fact, some cyanobacterial species are involved in the global nitrogen cycles by fixing atmospheric nitrogen. Environmental factors influence the dynamic, physiological characteristics, and metabolic profiles of cyanobacteria, which results in their great adaptation ability to survive in diverse ecosystems. The evolution of these primitive bacteria resulted from the unique settings of photosynthetic machineries and the production of bioactive compounds. Specifically, bioactive compounds play roles as regulators to provide protection against extrinsic factors and act as intracellular signaling molecules to promote colonization. In addition to the roles of bioactive metabolites as indole alkaloids, terpenoids, mycosporine-like amino acids, non-ribosomal peptides, polyketides, ribosomal peptides, phenolic acid, flavonoids, vitamins, and antimetabolites for cyanobacterial survival in numerous habitats, which is the focus of this review, the bioactivities of these compounds for the treatment of various diseases are also discussed.

Sustainable resource production for manufacturing bioactives from micro- and macroalgae: Examples from harvesting and cultivation in the Nordic region

Micro- and macroalgae are a great and important source of raw material for manufacturing of bioactives and ingredients for food, feed, cosmetics, or pharmaceuticals. Macroalgae (or seaweeds) have been harvested locally from wild stocks in smaller volumes for a long time, and a production chain based on cultivated seaweed for the harvest of considerably larger amounts is in progress for several species. Microalgae and cyanobacteria such as Spirulina have been produced in "backyard ponds" for use in food and feed also for a long time, and now we see the establishment of large production plants to control the cultivation process and increase the production yields. There is also a shift from harvesting or cultivation centered in warmer, sunnier areas to increasing exploitation of natural resources in temperate to boreal regions. In locations with strong seasonal variations in solar irradiance and temperatures, we need to develop procedures to maximize the biomass production in the productive seasons and ensure efficient stabilization of the biomass for year-round processing and product manufacturing. Industrialized biomass production and large-scale manufacturing of bioactives also mean that we must employ sustainable, cost-effective, and environmentally friendly processing methods, including stabilization and extraction methods such as ensiling and subcritical water extraction (SWE) and advanced analytic tools to characterize the products. These topics are focus areas of the Nordic Centre of Excellence (NCoE) NordAqua, and here we present a review of current activities in the field of micro- and macroalgae biomass production sectors illustrated with some of our experiences from the NordAqua consortium.

Seaweed-Based Molecules and Their Potential Biological Activities: An Eco-Sustainable Cosmetics

Amongst the countless marine organisms, seaweeds are considered as one of the richest sources of biologically active ingredients having powerful biological activities. Seaweeds or marine macroalgae are macroscopic multicellular eukaryotic photosynthetic organisms and have the potential to produce a large number of valuable compounds, such as proteins, carbohydrates, fatty acids, amino acids, phenolic compounds, pigments, etc. Since it is a prominent source of bioactive constituents, it finds diversified industrial applications viz food and dairy, pharmaceuticals, medicinal, cosmeceutical, nutraceutical, etc. Moreover, seaweed-based cosmetic products are risen up in their demands by the consumers, as they see them as a promising alternative to synthetic cosmetics. Normally it contains purified biologically active compounds or extracts with several compounds. Several seaweed ingredients that are useful in cosmeceuticals are known to be effective alternatives with significant benefits. Many seaweeds' species demonstrated skin beneficial activities, such as antioxidant, anti-melanogenesis, antiaging, photoprotection, anti-wrinkle, moisturizer, antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, anticancer and antioxidant properties, as well as certain antimicrobial activities, such as antibacterial, antifungal and antiviral activities. This review presents applications of bioactive molecules derived from marine algae as a potential substitute for its current applications in the cosmetic industry. The biological activities of carbohydrates, proteins, phenolic compounds and pigments are discussed as safe sources of ingredients for the consumer and cosmetic industry.

From Sea to Skin: Is There a Future for Natural Photoprotectants?

In the last few decades, the thinning of the ozone layer due to increased atmospheric pollution has exacerbated the negative effects of excessive exposure to solar ultraviolet radiation (UVR), and skin cancer has become a major public health concern. In order to prevent skin damage, public health advice mainly focuses on the use of sunscreens, along with wearing protective clothing and avoiding sun exposure during peak hours. Sunscreens present on the market are topical formulations that contain a number of different synthetic, organic, and inorganic UVR filters with different absorbance profiles, which, when combined, provide broad UVR spectrum protection. However, increased evidence suggests that some of these compounds cause subtle damage to marine ecosystems. One alternative may be the use of natural products that are produced in a wide range of marine species and are mainly thought to act as a defense against UVR-mediated damage. However, their potential for human photoprotection is largely under-investigated. In this review, attention has been placed on the molecular strategies adopted by marine organisms to counteract UVR-induced negative effects and we provide a broad portrayal of the recent literature concerning marine-derived natural products having potential as natural sunscreens/photoprotectants for human skin. Their chemical structure, UVR absorption properties, and their pleiotropic role as bioactive molecules are discussed. Most studies strongly suggest that these natural products could be promising for use in biocompatible sunscreens and may represent an alternative eco-friendly approach to protect humans against UV-induced skin damage.

Sustainable Sources from Aquatic Organisms for Cosmeceuticals Ingredients

Long life expectancy of populations in the developing world together with some cultural and social issues has driven the need to pay special attention to health and physical appearance. Cosmeceuticals are gaining interest in the cosmetic industry as their uses fulfills a double purpose: the requirements of a cosmetic (clean, perfume, protect, change the appearance of the external parts of the body or keeping them in good condition) with a particular bioactivity function. The cosmetics industry, producing both cosmetics and cosmeceuticals, is currently facing numerous challenges to satisfy different attitudes of consumers (vegetarianism, veganism, cultural or religious concerns, health or safety reasons, eco-friendly process, etc.). A currently growing trend in the market is the interest in products of low environmental impact. Marine origin ingredients are increasingly being incorporated into cosmeceutical preparations because they are able to address several consumer requirements and also due to the wide range of bioactivities they present (antioxidant, whitening, anti-aging, etc.). Many companies claim “Marine” as a distinctive marketing signal; however, only a few indicate whether they use sustainable ingredient sources. Sustainable marine ingredients might be obtained using wild marine biomass through a sustainable extractive fishing activity; by adopting valorization strategies including the use of fish discards and fish by-products; and by sustainably farming and culturing marine organisms.

Analysis of the Mycosporine-Like Amino Acid (MAA) Pattern of the Salt Marsh Red Alga Bostrychia scorpioides

This study presents the validation of a high-performance liquid chromatography diode array detector (HPLC-DAD) method for the determination of different mycosporine-like amino acids (MAAs) in the red alga Bostrychia scorpioides. The investigated MAAs, named bostrychines, have only been found in this specific species so far. The developed HPLC-DAD method was successfully applied for the quantification of the major MAAs in Bostrychia scorpioides extracts, collected from four different countries in Europe showing only minor differences between the investigated samples. In the past, several Bostrychia spp. have been reported to include cryptic species, and in some cases such as B. calliptera, B. simpliciuscula, and B. moritziana, the polyphyly was supported by differences in their MAA composition. The uniformity in the MAA composition of the investigated B. scorpioides samples is in agreement with the reported monophyly of this Bostrychia sp.

Mycosporine-Like Amino Acids from Red Macroalgae: UV-Photoprotectors with Potential Cosmeceutical Applications

Macroalgae belong to a diverse group of organisms that could be exploited for biomolecule application. Among the biocompounds found in this group, mycosporine-like amino acids (MAAs) are highlighted mainly due to their photoprotection, antioxidant properties, and high photo and thermo-stability, which are attractive characteristics for the development of cosmeceutical products. Therefore, here we revise published data about MAAs, including their biosynthesis, biomass production, extraction, characterization, identification, purification, and bioactivities. MAAs can be found in many algae species, but the highest concentrations are found in red macroalgae, mainly in the order Bangiales, as Porphyra spp. In addition to the species, the content of MAAs can vary depending on environmental factors, of which solar radiation and nitrogen availability are the most influential. MAAs can confer photoprotection due to their capacity to absorb ultraviolet radiation or reduce the impact of free radicals on cells, among other properties. To extract these compounds, different approaches can be used. The efficiency of these methods can be evaluated with characterization and identification using high performance liquid chromatography (HPLC), associated with other apparatus such as mass spectrometry (MS) and nuclear magnetic resonance (NMR). Therefore, the data presented in this review allow a broad comprehension of MAAs and show perspectives for their inclusion in cosmeceutical products.

Modulation of the ubiquitin-proteasome system by marine natural products

The ubiquitin-proteasome system (UPS) is a key player in the maintenance of cellular protein homeostasis (proteostasis). Since proteasome function declines upon aging leading to the acceleration of its progression and the manifestation of age-related pathologies, many attempts have been performed towards proteasome activation as a strategy to promote healthspan and longevity. The marine environment hosts a plethora of organisms that produce a vast array of primary and secondary metabolites, the majority of which are unique, exhibiting a wide spectrum of biological activities. The fact that these biologically important compounds are also present in edible marine organisms has sparked the interest for elucidating their potential health-related applications. In this review, we focus on the antioxidant, anti-aging, anti-aggregation and anti-photoaging properties of various marine constituents. We further discuss representatives of marine compounds classes with regard to their potential (direct or indirect) action on UPS components that could serve as UPS modulators and exert beneficial effects on conditions such as oxidative stress, aging and age-related diseases.

Challenging Cosmetic Innovation: The Skin Microbiota and Probiotics Protect the Skin from UV-Induced Damage

Many studies performed in the last decade have focused on the cutaneous microbiota. It has been shown that this microbiota plays a key role in skin homeostasis. Considered as “a second barrier” to the environment, it is very important to know how it reacts to exogenous aggressions. The cosmetics industry has a started to use this microbiota as a source of natural ingredients, particularly ones that confer photoprotection against ultraviolet (UV) rays. Interestingly, it has been demonstrated that bacterial molecules can block UV rays or reverse their harmful effects. Oral probiotics containing living microorganisms have also shown promising results in restoring skin homeostasis and reversing the negative effects of UV rays. Microbial-based active sunscreen compounds have huge potential for use as next-generation photoprotection products.

Microalgal Cell Biofactory-Therapeutic, Nutraceutical and Functional Food Applications

Microalgae are multifaceted photosynthetic microorganisms with emerging business potential. They are present ubiquitously in terrestrial and aquatic environments with rich species diversity and are capable of producing significant biomass. Traditionally, microalgal biomass is being used as food and feed in many countries around the globe. The production of microalgal-based bioactive compounds at an industrial scale through biotechnological interventions is gaining interest more recently. The present review provides a detailed overview of the key algal metabolites, which plays a crucial role in nutraceutical, functional foods, and animal/aquaculture feed industries. Bioactive compounds of microalgae known to exhibit antioxidant, antimicrobial, antitumor, and immunomodulatory effects were comprehensively reviewed. The potential microalgal species and biological extracts against human pathogens were also discussed. Further, current technologies involved in upstream and downstream bioprocessing including cultivation, harvesting, and cell disruption were documented. Establishing microalgae as an alternative supplement would complement the sustainable and environmental requirements in the framework of human health and well-being.

Unravelling the Dermatological Potential of the Brown Seaweed Carpomitra costata

The ever-increasing interest in keeping a young appearance and healthy skin has leveraged the skincare industry. This, coupled together with the increased concern regarding the safety of synthetic products, has boosted the demand for new and safer natural ingredients. Accordingly, the aim of this study was to evaluate the dermatological potential of the brown seaweed Carpomitra costata. The antioxidant, anti-enzymatic, antimicrobial, photoprotective and anti-inflammatory properties of five C. costata fractions (F1-F5) were evaluated. The ethyl acetate fraction (F3) demonstrated the most promising results, with the best ability to scavenge 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) radicals (EC50 of 140.1 µg/mL) and the capacity to reduce reactive oxygen species (ROS) production promoted by UVA and UVB radiation in 3T3 cells, revealing its antioxidant and photoprotective potential. This fraction also exhibited the highest anti-enzymatic capacity, inhibiting the activities of collagenase, elastase and tyrosinase (IC50 of 7.2, 4.8 and 85.9 µg/mL, respectively). Moreover, F3 showed anti-inflammatory potential, reducing TNF-α and IL-6 release induced by LPS treatment in RAW 264.7 cells. These bioactivities may be related to the presence of phenolic compounds, such as phlorotannins, as demonstrated by NMR analysis. The results highlight the potential of C. costata as a source of bioactive ingredients for further dermatological applications.

Unravelling the Dermatological Potential of the Brown Seaweed Carpomitra costata

The ever-increasing interest in keeping a young appearance and healthy skin has leveraged the skincare industry. This, coupled together with the increased concern regarding the safety of synthetic products, has boosted the demand for new and safer natural ingredients. Accordingly, the aim of this study was to evaluate the dermatological potential of the brown seaweed Carpomitra costata. The antioxidant, anti-enzymatic, antimicrobial, photoprotective and anti-inflammatory properties of five C. costata fractions (F1–F5) were evaluated. The ethyl acetate fraction (F3) demonstrated the most promising results, with the best ability to scavenge 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) radicals (EC50 of 140.1 µg/mL) and the capacity to reduce reactive oxygen species (ROS) production promoted by UVA and UVB radiation in 3T3 cells, revealing its antioxidant and photoprotective potential. This fraction also exhibited the highest anti-enzymatic capacity, inhibiting the activities of collagenase, elastase and tyrosinase (IC50 of 7.2, 4.8 and 85.9 µg/mL, respectively). Moreover, F3 showed anti-inflammatory potential, reducing TNF-α and IL-6 release induced by LPS treatment in RAW 264.7 cells. These bioactivities may be related to the presence of phenolic compounds, such as phlorotannins, as demonstrated by NMR analysis. The results highlight the potential of C. costata as a source of bioactive ingredients for further dermatological applications.

Sunscreens and their usefulness: have we made any progress in the last two decades?

Sunscreens have now been around for decades to mitigate the Sun's damaging ultraviolet (UV) radiation which, although essential for the existence of life, is a recognized prime carcinogen. Accordingly, have suncreams achieved their intended purposes towards protection against sunburns, skin photo-ageing and the like? Most importantly, however, have they provided the expected protection against skin cancers that current sunscreen products claim to do? In the last two decades, there have been tens, if not hundreds of studies on sunscreens with respect to skin protection against UVB (280‒320 nm)-traditionally sunscreens with rather low sun protection factors (SPF) were intended to protect against this type of radiation-and UVA (320‒400 nm) radiation; a distinction between SPF and UVA protection factor (UVA-PF) is made. Many of the studies of the last two decades have focused on protection against the more skin-penetrating UVA radiation. This non-exhaustive article reviews some of the important facets of what is currently known about sunscreens with regard (i) to the physical UV filters titanium dioxide (TiO₂) and zinc oxide (ZnO) and the mostly photo-unstable chemical UVB/UVA filters (e.g., octinoxate (OMC) and avobenzone (AVO), among others), (ii) to novel chemical sunscreen agents, (iii) to means that minimize the breakdown of chemical filters and improve their stability when exposed to UV sunlight, (iv) to SPF factors, and (v) to a short discussion on non-melanoma skin cancers and melanoma. Importantly, throughout the article we allude to the safety aspects of sunscreens and at the end ask the question: do active ingredients in sunscreen products pose a risk to human health, and what else can be done to enhance protection? Significant loss of skin protection from two well-known commercial suncreams when exposed to simulated UV sunlight. Cream I: titanium dioxide, ethylhexyl triazone, avobenzone, and octinoxate; Cream II: octyl salicylate, oxybenzone, avobenzone, and octinoxate.

Pigment Production Improvement in Rhodotorula mucilaginosa AJB01 Using Design of Experiments

The discovery of biopigments has received considerable attention from the industrial sector, mainly for potential applications as novel molecules with biological activity, in cosmetics or if aquaculture food supplements. The main objective of this study was to increase the production of carotenoid pigments in a naturally pigmented yeast by subjecting the yeast to various cellular stresses using design of experiments. The fungal strain Rhodotorula mucilaginosa AJB01 was isolated from a food sample collected in Barranquilla, Colombia, and one of the pigments produced was β-carotene. This strain was subjected to various stress conditions, including osmotic stress using different salts, physical stress by ultraviolet (UV) light, and light stress using different photoperiods. The optimal growth conditions for carotenoid production were determined to be 1 min of UV light, 0.5 mg/L of magnesium sulfate, and an 18:6 h light/dark period, which resulted in a carotenoid yield of 118.3 µg of carotenoid per gram of yeast.

Mycosporine-Like Amino Acids (MAAs): Biology, Chemistry and Identification Features

Mycosporines and mycosporine-like amino acids are ultra-violet-absorbing compounds produced by several organisms such as lichens, fungi, algae and cyanobacteria, especially upon exposure to solar ultraviolet radiation. These compounds have photoprotective and antioxidant functions. Mycosporine-like amino acids have been used as a natural bioactive ingredient in cosmetic products. Several reviews have already been developed on these photoprotective compounds, but they focus on specific features. Herein, an extremely complete database on mycosporines and mycosporine-like amino acids, covering the whole class of these natural sunscreen compounds known to date, is presented. Currently, this database has 74 compounds and provides information about the chemistry, absorption maxima, protonated mass, fragments and molecular structure of these UV-absorbing compounds as well as their presence in organisms. This platform completes the previous reviews and is available online for free and in the public domain. This database is a useful tool for natural product data mining, dereplication studies, research working in the field of UV-absorbing compounds mycosporines and being integrated in mass spectrometry library software.