In vitro sun protection factor determination of herbal oils used in cosmetics

Advancements in sunscreen formulations: integrating polyphenolic nanocarriers and nanotechnology for enhanced UV protection

Sunscreens are essential in protecting the skin from harmful effects of ultraviolet radiation (UVR). These formulations, designed to absorb, block, or scatter UVR, offer vital protection against skin aging, sunburns, and the development of skin cancers like melanomas. However, some sunscreens, especially those containing organic/chemical compounds, can cause allergic reactions. To address this, researchers are extensively investigating formulations that incorporate plant extracts rich in polyphenols, such as flavonoids and carotenoids, which can be considered safer alternatives. Products derived from plants are commonly used in cosmetics to counteract skin aging due to their antioxidant activity that combat harmful free radicals. This review focuses on evaluating the advancements in chemical and natural sunscreens, exploring the integration of polyphenolic nanocarriers within sunscreen formulas, their interaction with UVR, and utilizing nanotechnology to enhance their effectiveness. An attempt has been made to highlight the concerns related to toxicity associated with their use and notable advancements in the regulatory aspects governing their utilization.

Innovative snail-mucus-extract (SME)-coated nanoparticles exhibit anti-inflammatory and anti-proliferative effects for potential skin cancer prevention and treatment

Nowadays, several studies have highlighted the ability of snail mucus in maintaining healthy skin conditions due to its emollient, regenerative and protective properties. In particular, mucus derived from H. aspersa muller has been reported to have beneficial effects such as antioxidant, antimicrobial activity and wound repair capacity. To enhance antioxidant activity of snail mucus, it was extracted in a hydroalcoholic solution and consequently freeze-dried. The obtained snail mucus extract (SME) was indeed endowed with higher antioxidant activity observed in cell-free models, however it was not possible to test its effects in cellular models as it creates a thick film on the cell surface. Therefore, in order to enhance beneficial effects of snail mucus and extend its potential use, SME was used to develop snail mucus extract-coated gold nanoparticles (AuNPs-SME) which exhibited anti-inflammatory properties on non-tumorigenic cells. LPS-induced inflammation in human NCTC keratinocytes was used as model to investigate the in vitro cytoprotective effects of nanoparticles. Co-treatment with LPS and AuNPs-SME significantly reduced pro-inflammatory cytokine transcription. Moreover, we demonstrated that AuNPs-SME not only can be used for anti-inflammatory treatments, but also as a sunscreen and antioxidant for potential cosmetic applications. Furthermore, AuNPs-SME's ability to selectively inhibit the growth of two human melanoma cell lines without affecting immortalized human keratinocyte viability in the same conditions was assessed. Thus, we demonstrated that snail mucus is suitable for creating innovative formulations and it can be considered a valid candidate for cosmeceutical applications to enrich the snail mucus based anti-age and sunscreen products already present on the market. Moreover, innovative formulations containing snail mucus can be potentially used for the treatment of specific skin neoplasms.

Effect of Ag and Ni-Doped Cerium Oxide Nanoparticles on the Formation of ROS and Evaluation as an Alternative Physical Sunscreen Material

CeO2 nanoparticles (nanoceria) were proposed as an alternative physical sunscreen agent with antioxidant properties and comparable UV absorption performance. Green synthesis of nanoceria with Ag and Ni dopants resulted in doped nanoceria with lower catalytic activity and biologically-safe characteristics. The doped nanoceria was characterized using X-ray diffraction (XRD), transmission electron microscopy (TEM), Rancimat Instrument, and UV-Vis Spectrophotometer for SPF (Sun Protection Factor) determination. XRD and TEM analysis showed that nanoceria had been successfully formed in nanoscale-sized with a change in crystallite size due to the crystal defect phenomenon caused by dopant addition. While the Rancimat test and band gap energy analysis were conducted to evaluate the oxidative stability and reactive oxygen species formation, it was confirmed that dopant addition could decrease catalytic activity of material, resulting in Ni-doped Ce with a longer incubation time (11.81 h) than Ag-doped Ce (10.58 h) and non-doped Ce (10.30 h). In-vitro SPF value was measured using the thin layer technique of sunscreen prototype with Virgin Coconut Oil (VCO)-based emulsion, which yielded 10.862 and 5.728 SPF values for 10% Ag-doped Ce and 10% Ni-doped Ce, respectively. The dopant addition of nanoceria could reduce catalytic activity and give a decent in vitro UV-shielding performance test; thus, Ag and Ni-doped nanoceria could be seen as promising candidates for alternative physical sunscreen agents.

In Vitro and In Vivo Efficacy of Topical Dosage Forms Containing Self-Nanoemulsifying Drug Delivery System Loaded with Curcumin

The external use of curcumin is rare, although it can be a valuable active ingredient in the treatment of certain inflammatory diseases. The aim of our experimental work was to formulate topical dosage forms containing curcumin for the treatment of atopic dermatitis. Curcumin has extremely poor solubility and bioavailability, so we have tried to increase it with the usage of self-emulsifying drug delivery systems. Creams and gels were formulated using penetration-enhancing surfactants and gelling agents. The release of the drug from the vehicle and its penetration through the membrane were determined using a Franz diffusion cell. An MTT cytotoxicity and in vitro antioxidant assays were performed on HaCaT cell line. The in vivo anti-inflammatory effect of the preparations was tested by measuring rat paw edema. In addition, we examined the degree of inflammation induced by UV radiation after pretreatment with the cream and the gel on rats. For the gels containing SNEDDS, the highest penetration was measured after half an hour, while for the cream, it took one hour to reach the maximum concentration. The gel containing Pemulen TR-1 showed the highest drug release. It was determined that the curcumin-containing preparations can be safely applied on the skin and have antioxidant effects. The animal experiments have proven the effectiveness of curcumin-containing topical preparations.

A systematic review of natural products for skin applications: Targeting inflammation, wound healing, and photo-aging

BACKGROUND

Every day the skin is constantly exposed to several harmful factors that induce oxidative stress. When the cells are incapable to maintain the balance between antioxidant defenses and reactive oxygen species, the skin no longer can keep its integrity and homeostasis. Chronic inflammation, premature skin aging, tissue damage, and immunosuppression are possible consequences induced by sustained exposure to environmental and endogenous reactive oxygen species. Skin immune and non-immune cells together with the microbiome are essential to efficiently trigger skin immune responses to stress. For this reason, an ever-increasing demand for novel molecules capable of modulating immune functions in the skin has risen the level of their development, particularly in the field of natural product-derived molecules.

PURPOSE

In this review, we explore different classes of molecules that showed evidence in modulate skin immune responses, as well as their target receptors and signaling pathways. Moreover, we describe the role of polyphenols, polysaccharides, fatty acids, peptides, and probiotics as possible treatments for skin conditions, including wound healing, infection, inflammation, allergies, and premature skin aging.

METHODS

Literature was searched, analyzed, and collected using databases, including PubMed, Science Direct, and Google Scholar. The search terms used included "Skin", "wound healing", "natural products", "skin microbiome", "immunomodulation", "anti-inflammatory", "antioxidant", "infection", "UV radiation", "polyphenols", "polysaccharides", "fatty acids", "plant oils", "peptides", "antimicrobial peptides", "probiotics", "atopic dermatitis", "psoriasis", "auto-immunity", "dry skin", "aging", etc., and several combinations of these keywords.

RESULTS

Natural products offer different solutions as possible treatments for several skin conditions. Significant antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activities were reported, followed by the ability to modulate immune functions in the skin. Several membrane-bound immune receptors in the skin recognize diverse types of natural-derived molecules, promoting different immune responses that can improve skin conditions.

CONCLUSION

Despite the increasing progress in drug discovery, several limiting factors need future clarification. Understanding the safety, biological activities, and precise mechanisms of action is a priority as well as the characterization of the active compounds responsible for that. This review provides directions for future studies in the development of new molecules with important pharmaceutical and cosmeceutical value.

Antimicrobial, antioxidant, and sun protection potential of the isolated compounds from Spermacoce princeae (K. Schum)

BACKGROUND

Spermacoce princeae (K. Schum) has been used in the treatment of bacterial skin infections in Uganda. Pharmacological studies revealed that extracts of S. princeae exhibited antibacterial, antioxidant, and sun protection potential. This study aimed at isolating and identifying pure compounds from the extracts based on comprehensive analytical characterization by multiple analytical techniques.

METHODS

The plant samples were extracted by sequential maceration using n-hexane, ethyl acetate, methanol, and distilled water. The compounds were isolated using a combination of chromatographic techniques and their structures were elucidated by multiple spectroscopic techniques. The antibacterial and antifungal activity determination of the isolated compounds was carried out using an agar well diffusion and potato dextrose assay against Pseudomonas aeruginosa, Staphylococcus aureus, Escherichia coli, Klebsiella pneumoniae, Candida albicans, and Aspergillus flavus while the antioxidant activity was screened with the 2,2-diphenyl-2-picryl-hydrazyl (DPPH) radical scavenging assay. The sun protection factor was determined using a Shimadzu Ultra Violet-visible (UV-VIS) double beam spectrophotometer between 290 to 320 nm.

RESULTS

Eleven compounds; quercetin (1), kaempferol-3-O-rutinoside (2), rutin (3, 12), myo-inositol (4), asperulosidic acid (5), hexadecanoic acid (6), β-sitosterol (7), stigmasterol (8), campesterol (9), ursolic acid (10), and β-sitosterol glucoside (11) were identified in the S. princeae extracts. Compound 2 had good antifungal activity against C. albicans (zone of inhibition, 23.0 ± 0.1 mm). Compound 10 showed antibacterial and antifungal activity against S. aureus, P. aeruginosa, C. albicans, and A. flavus. Compound 2 had a good percentage radical scavenging effect (IC₅₀ = 64.81 µg/ml) and a good sun protection factor (SPF = 26.83).

CONCLUSION

This study reports the first-time isolation and identification of compounds 1 to 11 from S. princeae, which contribute to its antimicrobial, antioxidant, and sun protection potential.

Potential of lignin multifunctionality for a sustainable skincare: Impact of emulsification process parameters and oil-phase on the characteristics of O/W Pickering emulsions

Colloidal lignin particles (CLPs) from softwood kraft lignin were evaluated as a multifunctional ingredient to prepare bio-based oil-in-water (O/W) Pickering emulsions. After a preliminary screening, three Pickering emulsions systems were formulated using orange, coconut, and paraffin oils, at varying concentration of CLPs, oil/water ratio, and by applying two-step homogenisation processes (rotor-stator homogenisation followed by ultrasonication). Ultrasonication as a second homogenisation step considerably enhanced the emulsification efficiency, generating emulsions with smaller droplet size and less polydisperse distribution. Furthermore, the effect of ultrasonication on the characteristics of emulsions and the stability of the systems was evaluated over time. The oil content and type, the concentration of CLPs, and the homogenisation methods significantly influenced the characteristics of the emulsions and drop size. Higher concentrations of oil and CLPs favoured the formation of the emulsion and contributed to higher physical stability after 120 days of monitoring. The in vitro Sun Protection Factor (SPF) results demonstrated that the incorporation of natural oils containing phenolic compounds in Pickering formulations improves the SPF value of emulsions, showing an interesting synergic effect between lignin particles and vegetable oils, which was not observed in the case of paraffin oil. Furthermore, the broad-spectrum sun blocker of Pickering emulsions was confirmed by the values of UVA/UVB between 0.74 and 0.90 and C_λ > 380.

Stabilizing both oil droplets and titanium dioxide nanoparticles in aqueous dispersion with nanofibrillated cellulose

Nanocellulose is a well-known stabilizer for several colloidal dispersions, including emulsions and solid nanoparticles, replacing surfactants, polymers, and other additives, and therefore providing more minimalistic and eco-friendly formulations. However, could this ability be extended to stabilize oil droplets and inorganic nanoparticles simultaneously in the same colloidal system? This work aimed to answer this question. We evaluated both cationic and anionic nanofibrillated celluloses to stabilize both titanium dioxide nanoparticles and oil droplets. The resulting suspensions held their macroscopic stability for up to 2 months, regardless of pH or surface charge. Cryo-TEM images revealed a complex network formation involving nanofibers and TiO₂ nanoparticles, which agrees with the high viscosity values and gel-like behavior found in rheology measurements. We propose that the formation of this network is responsible for the simultaneous stabilization of oil droplets and TiO₂ nanoparticles, and that this may be used as a formulation tool for other complex systems.

Process Optimization of Phytoantioxidant and Photoprotective Compounds from Carob Pods (Ceratonia siliqua L.) Using Ultrasonic Assisted Extraction Method

The current study first describes the extraction of phytoantioxidant polyphenols from Carob byproducts (pods) using maceration and heating-assisted extraction as traditional methods and ultrasonic-assisted extraction (UAE) as an innovative method to determine the most efficient extraction process in terms of four targeted responses: total phenolic content (TPC), antioxidant activities (TAC and DPPH), and photoprotective properties as measured by the sun protection factor (SPF). Second, we used response surface methodology (RSM) with a central composite rotatable design (CCDR) approach to investigate the influence of process variables (extraction time, extraction temperature, and solvent concentration) on UAE, which was found to be the most effective extraction technique in our study. Carob byproduct extracts had a TPC ranging from 6.21 to 21.92 mg GAE/g dw, a TAC ranging from 22.00 to 49.30 mg AAE/g dw, DPPH scavenging activity ranging from 56.35 to 90.50%, and SPF values ranging from 8.62 to 22.37. The optimal UAE conditions for maximum TPC, TAC, DPPH, and SPF responses were determined to be 38.90% ethanol, 53.90 °C, and 50.92 min. Using Carob as a source for sustainable and bioactive products in conjunction with optimized UAE is a promising contribution to the cosmetic industry that will help to strengthen the concept of environmentally-friendly "green chemistry". Given that Carob pulp or seeds are considered food byproducts, the research presented here encourages the use of these agri-food waste materials in cosmetics.

Enhancing Bioproducts in Seaweeds via Sustainable Aquaculture: Antioxidant and Sun-Protection Compounds

Marine macroalgae are considered an untapped source of healthy natural metabolites and their market demand is rapidly increasing. Intertidal macroalgae present chemical defense mechanisms that enable them to thrive under changing environmental conditions. These intracellular chemicals include compounds that can be used for human benefit. The aim of this study was to test cultivation protocols that direct seaweed metabolic responses to enhance the production of target antioxidant and photoprotective biomaterials. We present an original integrated multi-trophic aquaculture (IMTA) design, based on a two-phase cultivation plan, in which three seaweed species were initially fed by fish effluents, and subsequently exposed to various abiotic stresses, namely, high irradiance, nutrient starvation, and high salinity. The combined effect of the IMTA's high nutrient concentrations and/or followed by the abiotic stressors enhanced the seaweeds' content of mycosporine-like amino acids (MAAs) by 2.3-fold, phenolic compounds by 1.4-fold, and their antioxidant capacity by 1.8-fold. The Sun Protection Factor (SPF) rose by 2.7-fold, and the chlorophyll and phycobiliprotein synthesis was stimulated dramatically by an order of magnitude. Our integrated cultivation system design offers a sustainable approach, with the potential to be adopted by emerging industries for food and health applications.

Screening for New Cosmeceuticals from Brown Algae Fucus vesiculosus with Antioxidant and Photo-Protecting Properties

Phlorotannins play a role in biological functions to protect the cells against UV and oxidative damage in brown algae. We hypothesized that these compounds can function as photo-protectors and antioxidants in skin care formulations. Two types of extracts (water (FV-WE) and 67% v/v ethanol (FV-EE)) from Fucus vesiculosus were obtained with a phlorotannin content between 7-14% in dry extract. Exposure to sun light during growth was included as a factor on the phlorotannin content but did not influence the phlorotannin content. However, green colored F. vesiculosus had lower total phenolic content (TPC) (FV-WE = 6.9 g GAE 100 g-1 dw, FV-EE = 7.8 g GAE 100 g-1 dw) compared to those with a yellow/brownish color (FV-WE = 10.4-13.7 g GAE 100 g-1 dw, FV-EE = 11.2-14.0 g GAE 100 g-1 dw). UVA and UVB photo protective capabilities of the extracts through different biological effective protection factors (BEPFs) were evaluated using in vitro methods; the Mansur method for sun protection factor (SPF) and calculation of effective solar absorption radiation (%ESAR) to determine SPF and UVA protection factor (UVA-PF) of the extract and in seaweed enriched lotion. The SPF was negligible, when evaluating FV-WE in lotion (10 and 20% w/w). Moreover, %ESAR of the FV-WE showed SPF and some UVA-PF, but not enough to give sufficient SPF in lotions (10% w/w). It was concluded that the concentration of UV protecting compounds in the extracts was too low to and that further fractionation and purification of phlorotannins is needed to increase the SPF.

Ultraviolet Radiation Protective and Anti-Inflammatory Effects of Kaempferia galanga L. Rhizome Oil and Microemulsion: Formulation, Characterization, and Hydrogel Preparation

Long-term UV radiation exposure can induce skin disorders such as cancer and photoallergic reactions. Natural products have been considered as non-irritate and potential sunscreen resources due to their UV absorption and anti-inflammatory activities. This study aimed to evaluate the in vitro ultraviolet radiation protective effect and anti-inflammatory activity of K. galanga rhizome oil and microemulsions. The chemical components of K. galanga rhizome oil was analyzed via gas chromatography coupled with mass spectrometry. Microemulsions containing K. galanga rhizome oil were formulated using a phase-titration method. The microemulsion was characterized for droplet size, polydispersity index, and zeta potential, using a dynamic light-scattering technique. The physical and chemical stability of the microemulsion were evaluated via a dynamic light scattering technique and UV-Vis spectrophotometry, respectively. The UV protection of K. galanga rhizome oil and its microemulsion were investigated using an ultraviolet transmittance analyzer. The protective effect of K. galanga rhizome oil against LPS-induced inflammation was investigated via MTT and nitric oxide inhibitory assays. In addition, a hydrogel containing K. galanga rhizome oil microemulsion was developed, stored for 90 days at 4, 30, and 45 °C, and characterized for viscosity, rheology, and pH. The chemical degradation of the main active compound in the microemulsion was analyzed via UV-Vis spectrophotometry. The formulated O/W microemulsion contained a high loading efficiency (101.24 ± 2.08%) of K. galanga rhizome oil, suggesting a successful delivery system of the oil. The size, polydispersity index, and zeta potential values of the microemulsion were optimized and found to be stable when stored at 4, 30, and 45 °C. K. galanga rhizome oil and microemulsion demonstrated moderate sun protective activity and reduced the nitric oxide production induced by LPS in macrophage cells, indicating that microemulsion containing K. galanga rhizome oil may help protect human skin from UV damage and inflammation. A hydrogel containing K. galanga rhizome oil microemulsion was developed as a topical preparation. The hydrogel showed good physical stability after heating and cooling cycles and long-term storage (3 months) at 4 °C. The use of K. galanga rhizome oil as a natural sun-protective substance may provide a protective effect against inflammation on the skin. K. galanga rhizome oil microemulsion was successfully incorporated into the hydrogel and has the potential to be used as a topical sunscreen preparation.

Chemical Study and Comparison of the Biological Activities of the Essential Oils of Helichrysum petiolare, H. cymosum, and H. odoratissimum

Helichrysum species are prominent South African medicinal plants. From the essential oils (EOs) of three Helichrysum species, H. petiolare, H. odoratissimum, and H. cymosum, sixty-three constituent components were identified, with hydrocarbons and oxygenated monoterpenes and sesquiterpenes as major components. The compounds were analyzed by gas chromatography-mass spectrometry (GC-MS) and nuclear magnetic resonance (NMR) spectroscopy. In H. petiolare EO, the major components were faurinone (20.66%) and (E)-β-ocimene (17.21%). Faurinone was isolated from this EO for the first time. In H. odoratissimum, 1,8-cineole (17.44%) and α-pinene, and γ-curcumene (15.76%) were the major components whereas, in H. cymosum, α-pinene (29.82%) and (E)-caryophyllene (19.20%) were the major components. In the antibacterial activity study, the EOs were tested against Staphylococcus aureus, Escherichia coli, and Pseudomonas aeruginosa. The EOs were found to possess low antibacterial, anti-tyrosinase, and photoprotection activities and moderate antioxidant capacities, thus establishing these Helichrysum EOs as valuable antioxidant agents.

Antitumor/anti-angiogenesis efficacy of epigallocatechin gallate nanoformulated with antioxidant in melanoma

Aim: Epigallocatechin gallate (EGCG) derived from green tea has poor stability; therefore, to enhance its bioavailability and anticancer efficiency, we synthesized three different nanoformulations. We hypothesized that these three nanoformulations of EGCG (nano-EGCG) would enhance EGCG’s stability and improve its anticancer and antiangiogenic activity against melanoma compared with free EGCG. Methods: We prepared nano-EGCG using a copolymerization method with the UV blocker ZnO and the antioxidants lycopene and olive oil. Results: The different nano-EGCG formulation exhibited improved EGCG stability and greater suppression of melanoma growth than free EGCG. Nanoformulation preparation methods efficiently prevented the loss of EGCG activity and are a favorable approach for the treatment of melanoma. Conclusion: Nano-EGCG formulations had enhanced stability and produced greater suppression of melanoma tumor growth and angiogenesis compared with free EGCG.

Peppermint essential oil: its phytochemistry, biological activity, pharmacological effect and application

Mentha (also known as peppermint), a genus of plants in the taxonomic family Lamiaceae (mint family), is widely distributed throughout temperate regions of the world. Mentha contains various constituents that are classified as peppermint essential oil (PEO) and non-essential components. PEO, consisting mainly of menthol, menthone, neomenthol and iso-menthone, is a mixture of volatile metabolites with anti-inflammatory, antibacterial, antiviral, scolicidal, immunomodulatory, antitumor, neuroprotective, antifatigue and antioxidant activities. Mounting evidence indicates that PEO may pharmacologically protect gastrointestinal, liver, kidney, skin, respiratory, brain and nervous systems, and exert hypoglycemic and hypolipidemic effects. Clinically, PEO is used for gastrointestinal and dermatological diseases, postoperative adjuvant therapy and other fields. This review aims to address the advances in the extraction and isolation of PEO, its biological activities, pharmacological effects, toxicity and applications, with an emphasis on the efficacy of PEO on burn wounds and psoriasis, providing a comprehensive foundation for research, development and application of PEO in future.

Photoprotective Agents Obtained from Aromatic Plants Grown in Colombia: Total Phenolic Content, Antioxidant Activity, and Assessment of Cytotoxic Potential in Cancer Cell Lines of Cymbopogon flexuosus L. and Tagetes lucida Cav. Essential Oils

Photoprotective agents obtained from plants provide benefits for the health of the skin. The present study aims to assess the total phenolic content (TPC) and in vitro UV-protective properties of twelve essential oils (EOs) from plants grown in Colombia and to evaluate the antioxidant and cytotoxic potential of two species identified as photoprotective potentials: Cymbopogon flexuosus and Tagetes lucida. The composition of EOs was studied by GC/MS. The cytotoxicity of both EOs was examined using an MTT assay, and an H2-DCFDA probe was employed to estimate the intracellular production of ROS in HepG2 and Calu-1 cells. Major constituents (≥10%) were neral, geranial, geranyl acetate in C. flexuosus and estragole in T. lucida. The TPC for C. flexuosus and T. lucida EOs were ≥10 mg GAE/g of byproduct. Both EOs showed photoprotective properties (SPFin vitro: 13−14), and long-wavelength UVA protection (λc > 370 nm). HepG2 and Calu-1 cells exposed to C. flexuosus exhibited antiproliferative activity (˂50%) at 125 µg/mL, while T. lucida was at 250 and 500 µg/mL. The IC50 values for C. flexuosus were 75 and 100 µg/mL in HepG2 and Calu-1 cells, respectively, whereas those for T. lucida were >250 µg/mL. These EOs achieved significant inhibitory effects (between 15.6 and 40.4%) against H2O2-induced oxidative stress. The results showed that EO compounds recognized as antioxidants could counteract the effects elicited by H2O2.

Development of Olive Oil and α-Tocopherol Containing Emulsions Stabilized by FucoPol: Rheological and Textural Analyses

Biobased raw materials like natural polysaccharides are increasingly sought by the cosmetic industry for their valuable properties. Such biodegradable and usually non-cytotoxic biopolymers are commonly used in skin-care products as rheological modifiers, bioemulsifiers and/or bioactive ingredients. FucoPol is a natural polysaccharide with reported biocompatibility, emulsion-forming and stabilizing capacity, shear-thinning behavior and bioactivity (e.g., antioxidant capacity, wound healing ability) that potentiate its utilization in skin-care products. In this study, olive oil and α-tocopherol containing emulsions were stabilized with FucoPol. Although the presence of α-tocopherol negatively impacted the emulsions’ stability, it increased their emulsification index (EI). Moreover, FucoPol outperformed the commercial emulsifier Sepigel^® 305, under the tested conditions, with higher EI and higher stability under storage for 30 days. The formulation of FucoPol-based emulsions with olive oil and α-tocopherol was studied by Response Surface Methodology (RSM) that allowed the definition of the ingredients’ content to attain high emulsification. The RSM model established that α-tocopherol concentration had no significant impact on the EI within the tested ranges, with optimal emulsification for FucoPol concentration in the range 0.7–1.2 wt.% and olive oil contents of 20–30 wt.%. Formulations with 25 wt.% olive oil and either 0.5 or 2.0 wt.% α-tocopherol were emulsified with 1.0 wt.% or 0.7 wt.% FucoPol, respectively, resulting in oil-in-water (O/W) emulsions. The emulsions had similar shear-thinning behavior, but the formulation with higher FucoPol content displayed higher apparent viscosity, higher consistency, as well as higher firmness, adhesiveness and cohesiveness, but lower spreadability. These findings show FucoPol’s high performance as an emulsifier for olive oil/α-tocopherol, which are supported by an effective impact on the physicochemical and structural characteristics of the emulsions. Hence, this natural polysaccharide is a potential alternative to other emulsifiers.

Up-to-Date Overview of the Use of Natural Ingredients in Sunscreens

The photoprotective skincare segment is in high demand to meet consumer concerns on UV-induced skin damage, with a recent trend towards sunscreen alternatives with a natural origin. In this study, the use of natural ingredients, either from terrestrial or marine origin, in a panel of 444 sunscreen commercial formulations (2021) was analyzed. Ingredients from terrestrial organisms represent the large majority found in the analyzed sunscreen formulations (48%), whereas marine ingredients are present only in 13% of the analyzed products. A deeper analysis regarding the most prevalent families of ingredients from terrestrial and marine organisms used as top ingredients is also presented, as well as their mechanisms of action. This study provides an up-to-date overview of the sunscreen market regarding the use of natural ingredients, which is of relevance for scientists involved in the development of new sunscreens to identify opportunities for innovation.

Unravelling the photoprotective effects of freshwater alga Nostoc commune Vaucher ex Bornet et Flahault against ultraviolet radiations

Several studies have suggested the direct relationship between skin complications, air pollution, and UV irradiation. UVB radiations cause various skin complications such as skin aging, skin inflammation, and skin cancer. The current study is designed to develop an ultraviolet (UV) absorbing MAA-loaded topical gel and to evaluate its UVA and UVB screening potential. MAA was extracted from the Nostoc commune Vaucher ex Bornet et Flahault (N. commune) and characterized by HPLC-PDA (with a retention time 2.6 min), UV-Visible (absorption maximum 334 nm), and mass spectrometry (m/z 346.2) techniques. The methanolic (10%) solution of MAA (50-150 μl) was dissolved in propylene glycol and mixed with hydrated gel (1.5 % of carbopol 934) by using EDTA (0.3%). Eight (F1-F8) formulations were evaluated for their physico-chemical characters. F7 retained its physio-chemical characters for 90 days. Further selected formulation (F7) was evaluated for its gelling strength (GSg), gelling temperature (GT), melting temperature (MT), apparent viscosity (cp), molecular mass (MMS), pH, physical appearance, homogeneity, and spreading diameter (SD). The stability study of the fabricated gel formulation was done as per International Committee on Harmonization guidelines and sunscreen potential was determined by in vitro sunscreen UV method. Findings revealed that GSg (337 ± 1.7 g/cm²), GT (22.8 ± 0.2 °C), cp (71.1 ± 0.2), MMS (424.177 ± 0.7), pH (6.2 ± 0.04), and SD (56 ± 0.2). For in vitro sunscreen potential determination, different concentrations of F7 (50-150 μl) were prepared. Topical application of the F7 displayed UV-A/UV-B photoprotection with SPF 1.13 folds greater then marketed formulation (Lotus herbals UV screen gel). Based on these findings, it was concluded that methanolic extract derived from N. commune contains Porphyra-334 which can be potentially used as photo protective compound in several cosmetic preparations. Development of sunscreen gel from Nostoc commune The current investigation is designed to develop ultraviolet (UV) absorbing MAA (mycosporine amino acid)-loaded topical gel from Nostoc commune to evaluate its UVA and UVB screening potential. LCMS characterization of HPLC-PDA purified MAA from N. commune methanolic extract demonstrated a prominent ion peak of a protonated molecule ([M + H]⁺) at m/z 346.2 [M+H]+ value confirmed the presence of Porphyra-334. Porphyra-334 is a broad-spectrum sun-protective compound evidenced for its potential in blocking UVA and UVB (Bhatia et al. 2010). Prepared sunscreen formulations remain stable for prolonged period and provide broad-spectrum protection against harmful UV range.

Essential Oils and Their Individual Components in Cosmetic Products

The current consumer demands together with the international regulations have pushed the cosmetic industry to seek new active ingredients from natural renewable sources for manufacturing more eco-sustainability and safe products, with botanical extract being an almost unlimited source of these new actives. Essential oils (EOs) emerge as very common natural ingredients in cosmetics and toiletries as a result of both their odorous character for the design and manufacturing of fragrances and perfumes, and the many beneficial properties of their individual components (EOCs), e.g., anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial and antioxidant properties, and, nowadays, the cosmetic industry includes EOs or different mixtures of their individual components (EOCs), either as active ingredients or as preservatives, in various product ranges (e.g., moisturizers, lotions and cleanser in skin care cosmetics; conditioners, masks or antidandruff products in hair care products; lipsticks, or fragrances in perfumery). However, the unique chemical profile of each individual essential oil is associated with different benefits, and hence it is difficult to generalize their potential applications in cosmetics and toiletries, which often require the effort of formulators in seeking suitable mixtures of EOs or EOCs for obtaining specific benefits in the final products. This work presents an updated review of the available literature related to the most recent advances in the application of EOs and EOCs in the manufacturing of cosmetic products. Furthermore, some specific aspects related to the safety of EOs and EOCs in cosmetics will be discussed. It is expected that the information contained in this comprehensive review can be exploited by formulators in the design and optimization of cosmetic formulations containing botanical extracts.

Sunscreen: a brief walk through history

The sunscreens we see today were paved by our ancestors' sun protection methods, followed by scientific discovery in the more recent era and the trials and errors of the sunscreen formulations that followed. This history highlights sun protection methods used over the centuries and the varying degrees of agreeable sensorial properties or comforts in these methods.

Chemical Composition and Cosmeceutical Potential of the Essential Oil of Oncosiphon suffruticosum (L.) Källersjö

The South African medicinal plant Oncosiphon suffruticosum (L.) Källersjö is an important remedy used to treat chronic, respiratory, and skin ailments. From the essential oil (EO) extracted by the hydrodistillation, sixteen constituent components were identified with oxygenated monoterpenes: camphor (31.21%), filifolone (13.98%), chrysanthenone (8.72%), 1,8-cineole (7.85%), and terpinen-4-ol (7.39%) as predominant constituents. In the antibacterial activity study, the EO was found most susceptible against Pseudomonas aeruginosa with an MIC of 6.4 mg/mL; however, it showed the same activity against Staphylococcus aureus and Escherichia coli with an MIC value of 12.8 mg/mL. The sun protecting factor (SPF) of the EO was found to be 2.299 and thus establishing it as a potentially important cosmeceutical for sunscreen applications. This is the first report investigating the essential oil of O. suffruticosum for its chemical composition and skin-related in vitro biological activities viz antibacterial, antioxidant capacity, antityrosinase, and sun protection factor.

Antibacterial, antioxidant, and sun protection potential of selected ethno medicinal plants used for skin infections in Uganda

Background

Rural populations in Uganda rely heavily on medicinal plants for the treatment of bacterial skin infections. However, the efficacy of these medicinal plants for their pharmacological action is not known. The study aimed at evaluating the antibacterial, antioxidant, and sun protection potential of Spermacoce princeae, Psorospermum febrifugum, Plectranthus caespitosus, and Erlangea tomentosa extracts.

Methods

The plant samples were extracted by maceration sequentially using hexane, dichloromethane, ethyl acetate, methanol, and distilled water. Antibacterial activity of each extract was carried out using an agar well diffusion assay against Pseudomonas aeruginosa, Staphylococcus aureus, Escherichia coli, Klebsiella pneumonie, Streptococcus pyogenes, and Salmonella typhi. Acute dermal toxicity of the aqueous extract of S. princeae and P. febrifugum, and E. tomentosa was assessed in young adult healthy Wistar albino rats at a dose of 8000 and 10,000 mg/kg body weight. The antioxidant activity of each extract was carried out using a 1,1-diphenyl-2-picryl-hydrazyl (DPPH) radical scavenging assay. The sun protection factor was determined using Shimadzu UltraViolet-Visible double beam spectrophotometer between 290 and 320 nm.

Results

The plant extracts showed good antibacterial activity against the tested bacterial strains with minimum inhibitory concentration (MIC) ranging between 3.12 and 12.5 mg/ml. There was no significant change in the levels of creatinine, alanine aminotransferase, and aspartate aminotransferase in the rats even at a higher dose of 10,000 mg/kg, which was related to the results of biochemical analysis of the blood samples from the treated and control groups. The aqueous and methanol extracts of S. princeae showed potential antioxidant properties, with half maximal inhibitory concentration (IC₅₀) values of 59.82 and 61.20 μg/ml respectively. The organic and aqueous extracts of P. caespitosus showed high levels of protection against Ultraviolet light with sun protection potential values ranging between 30.67 and 37.84.

Conclusions

The study demonstrated that the selected medicinal plants possessed good antibacterial, antioxidant, and sun protection properties. Therefore, the plants are alternative sources of antibacterial, antioxidant, and sun protection agents in managing bacterial skin infections.

In Vitro Determination of Sun Protection Factor of Water Extract of Aerodramus fuciphagus from Central Kalimantan

Sunscreen is a cosmetic substance that has the ability to reflect or absorb sunlight actively. It can prevent skin irritation due to UV rays. One of the natural ingredients with a sunscreen effect is the Edible-nest swiftlet's (Aerodramus fuciphagus) nest (ESN). This study aimed to determine the value of the sun protective factor (SPF) of the ESN water extract. The ESN water extract solution with variation concentration, this is 2000, 2500, 5000, 6000, and 7000 ppm, were measured by spectrophotometric UV-Vis at wavelength 290-375 nm with 5 nm intervals to determine the value of SPF, percentage of erythema transmission (%Te), and percentage of pigmentation transmission (%Tp) of ESN water extract. The result showed that the ESN water extract's SPF values at the concentration 2000, 2500, 5000, 6000, and 7000 ppm were 7.80; 9.68; 18.75; 20.58; and 22.24. The value of %Te of each concentration were 15.60±0.19; 10.03±0.42; 1.24±0.04; 0.81±0.01 and 0.56±0.01. While the value of %Tp of each concentration was showed the sunblock category. In conclusion, the ESN water extract from Central Kalimantan at the concentration of 6000 ppm has potential in ultraviolet protection against the skin in the ultra category with sunblock category mechanism. Further, it can be developed into sunscreen cosmetics from natural ingredients.

Evaluation of antityrosinase activity and mechanism, antioxidation, and UV filter properties of theaflavin

Tyrosinase is a key metalloenzyme for the biosynthesis of melanin that plays a critical role in the prevention of skin damage caused by ultraviolet (UV) radiation. However, the overproduction of melanin may cause a variety of skin diseases. Due to the toxicity and inefficiency of existing tyrosinase inhibitors, it is urgent to identify safe and potent alternatives from natural sources. Theaflavin, a single-component extracted from black tea, has been found to possess a variety of pharmacological activities. Herein, the inhibition kinetics of theaflavin on tyrosinase and inhibitory mechanism were determined using spectroscopy, molecular docking, and zebrafish model. The results showed that theaflavin inhibited the diphenolase activity of tyrosinase in a reversible mixed type manner with IC₅₀ of 229.75 μmol/L and hindered the synthesis of melanin in zebrafish. This may be due to the formation of eight hydrogen bonds and hydrophobic effects between theaflavin and tyrosinase according to the results of molecular docking. To study the possible effects on the prevention of free radical-mediated skin cancer and photoaging caused by UV radiation, the antioxidation and UV filter properties of theaflavin were further verified. This study demonstrates that theaflavin is a potential multifunctional compound that can be used in cosmetic and medicinal products.

Quality attributes of roasted Arabica coffee oil extracted by pressing: composition, antioxidant activity, sun protection factor and other physical and chemical parameters

This research reports a comprehensive characterization of the composition profile and physical and chemical characteristics of roasted Arabica coffee oil obtained by mechanical pressing. The oil presented a peroxide value of 3.21 meq·kg-1 and an acid value of 7.3 mg KOH·g-1. A higher proportion of unsaturated fatty acids (58%), predominantly linoleic (L) and palmitic (P) acids, was observed; PLL and PLP were estimated as the main triacylglycerols. The oil was characterized by high contents in diterpenes and tocopherols (3720 and 913 mg·100g-1, respectively), the presence of caffeine and chlorogenic acids, as well as a high sun protection factor (9.7) and ABTS free radical-scavenging capacity (12.5 mg Trolox·mL-1). Among the 35 volatile compounds studied, furfurythiol and pyrazines were the main components of the oil. These properties showed that roasted coffee oil has good potential for use in food and cosmetics.

Edible Films from Carrageenan/Orange Essential Oil/Trehalose-Structure, Optical Properties, and Antimicrobial Activity

The research aim was to use orange essential oil and trehalose in a carrageenan matrix to form edible packaging. The edible packaging experimentally produced by casting from an aqueous solution were evaluated by the following analysis: UV-Vis spectrum, transparency value, transmittance, attenuated total reflectance Fourier-Transform spectroscopy (FTIR), scanning electron microscopy (SEM) and antimicrobial activity. The obtained results showed that the combination of orange essential oil with trehalose decreases the transmittance value in the UV and Vis regions (up to 0.14% ± 0.02% at 356 nm), meaning that produced films can act as a UV protector. Most produced films in the research were resistant to Gram-positive bacteria (Staphylococcus aureus subsp. aureus), though most films did not show antibacterial properties against Gram-negative bacteria and yeasts. FTIR and SEM confirmed that both the amount of carrageenan used and the combination with orange essential oil influenced the compatibility of trehalose with the film matrix. The research showed how different combinations of trehalose, orange essential oils and carrageenan can affect edible film properties. These changes represent important information for further research and the possible practical application of these edible matrices.

The real UVB photoprotective efficacy of vegetable oils: in vitro and in vivo studies

Some vegetable oils are currently being promoted as a safe alternative to commercial sunscreens. The true UVB photoprotective efficacy of 14 virgin vegetable oils and the suitability of the dilution method for determining their SPF value were evaluated. Oils and standard sunscreens were investigated in vitro by the Mansur's method in Slovakia and in vivo by the ISO method in the Czech Republic. SPF values in vitro (0.1; 0.0; 0.4; 0.2 and 0.2) and in vivo (2.5; 1.2; 2.6; 2.6; and 2.8) of the five most promoted oils (from carrot seed, coconut, raspberry seed, rosehip seed, and wheat germ) were significantly lower than the values reported in the controversial studies. We have shown that the overestimated SPF values of these oils were determined by authors who did not strictly follow Mansur's original methodology. The other eight vegetable oils also provide no or negligible SPF values. Only the in vitro SPF value of 11.2 tamanu oil is worth mentioning, probably due to high proportion of calophyllolides. In vitro and in vivo SPF ratios from 1.14 to 0.94 obtained by two methods in two laboratories for six commercial sunscreen oils used as controls confirm the correctness of performing the Mansur's method in this study. However, this dilution method has proven to be fundamentally flawed in determining the SPF value of substances with such negligible photoprotection as most vegetable oils can provide. An SPF value of less than 1, which can be determined by this Mansur's method, is physiologically impossible and meaningless.

Demonstration of the dangerous nature of 'homemade' sunscreen recipes

BACKGROUND

Following a growing mistrust in a certain number of ingredients used by the cosmetic industry, it has become popular in recent years for consumers to make their own products at home. This trend now touches on all areas of the industry, but is especially found in the hygiene sector, with shampoos and toothpaste, and the care sector, with moisturizers and sunscreen, products.

OBJECTIVES

The objective of this study is to analyze sunscreen recipes found on the Internet and to assess their level of photoprotective efficacy.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

Fifteen Internet recipes were chosen, and then, the products were made in the laboratory following the protocols described. Using an in vitro method, the following efficacy indicators were determined for the preparations made: the Sun Protection Factor (SPF), the Production Factor in the UVA domain (PF-UVA), and the critical wavelength (λ_c ).

RESULTS

Three of the 15 recipes studied do not contain any sunscreen and therefore constitute a major risk for users in case of exposure to the sun. The other 12 cannot be considered as sun protection products since all of them have an SPF under 6, the threshold value required in Europe.

CONCLUSION

The recipes that we collected on the Internet are very dangerous since some of them have no photoprotective effect whatsoever and most of them do not ensure a sufficient level of photoprotection for the persons using them.

Safflower Seed Oil and Its Active Compound Acacetin Inhibit UVB-Induced Skin Photoaging

Ultraviolet (UV) is one of the major factors harmful to skin health. Irradiation with ultraviolet accelerates the decline of skin function, causing the skin to have deep wrinkles, dryness, decreased procollagen production, and degradation of collagen. Novel materials are needed to prevent the aging of the skin by blocking the effects of UV. Safflower seed oil (Charthamus tinctorius L., SSO) contains significantly high levels of unsaturated fatty acids and phytochemicals. SSO has been traditionally used in China, Japan, and Korea to improve skin and hair. Our objective in this study was to determine the effect of SSO and its active compound acacetin on UVB-induced skin photoaging in HaCaT cells and human dermal fibroblasts (HDF). SSO inhibited UVB-induced matrix metalloproteinase-1 (MMP-1) at both protein and mRNA levels in HaCaT cells and HDF. MMP-1 is known to play important roles in collagen degradation and wrinkle formation. Acacetin, a type of flavonoid, is present in SSO. Similar to SSO, acacetin also inhibited UVB-induced MMP-1 protein and mRNA levels in HaCaT cells and HDF. MMP-1 mRNA is primarily regulated by the mitogen-activated kinase (MAPK) signaling pathway. Acacetin regulated the phosphorylation of JNK1/2 and c-jun, but did not inhibit the phosphorylation of ERK1/2, p38 and AKT. Taken together, these results indicate that SSO and its active compound acacetin can prevent UVB-induced MMP-1 expression, which leads to skin photoaging, and may therefore have therapeutic potential as an anti-wrinkle agent to improve skin health.

Unravelling the Photoprotective Mechanisms of Nature-Inspired Ultraviolet Filters Using Ultrafast Spectroscopy

There are several drawbacks with the current commercially available ultraviolet (UV) filters used in sunscreen formulations, namely deleterious human and ecotoxic effects. As a result of the drawbacks, a current research interest is in identifying and designing new UV filters. One approach that has been explored in recent years is to use nature as inspiration, which is the focus of this review. Both plants and microorganisms have adapted to synthesize their own photoprotective molecules to guard their DNA from potentially harmful UV radiation. The relaxation mechanism of a molecule after it has been photoexcited can be unravelled by several techniques, the ones of most interest for this review being ultrafast spectroscopy and computational methods. Within the literature, both techniques have been implemented on plant-, and microbial-inspired UV filters to better understand their photoprotective roles in nature. This review aims to explore these findings for both families of nature-inspired UV filters in the hope of guiding the future design of sunscreens.

Pinterest Homemade Sunscreens: A Recipe for Sunburn

Social media, specifically Pinterest with more than 175 million users, has changed the way people seek and share health information. Recent consumer interest in natural products has led to an increase of shared recipes for homemade products including sunscreen. Homemade sunscreen products are risky because they are not regulated or tested for efficacy like commercial sunscreens. With rising skin cancer rates, the use of effective broadband sunscreen is critical to reduce incidence of skin cancer. This study used directed content analysis to examine how homemade sunscreens were portrayed on Pinterest. Using the search terms, homemade sunscreen and natural sunscreen, researchers sampled every fifth pin to collect 189 relevant pins. A codebook was developed, pilot tested, and used to code pins. Two researchers coded pins and interrater reliability was established at 90%. Of the 189 pins, the majority of pins (95.2%) positively portrayed the effectiveness of homemade sunscreens and 68.3% recommended recipes for homemade sunscreens that offered insufficient UV radiation protection. Sun Protection Factor (SPF) claims were made in 33.3% of pins with a range of SPF 2 to SPF 50. In this sample of pins, 41.8% of pins had been saved by other users ranging from one to more than 21,000 times. Social media is a powerful source of health information. However, this study revealed widespread interest and acceptance of insufficient sun protection information. Pinterest and the interest in homemade recipes for sunscreen present an opportunity for public health professionals to proactively engage on social media. Abbreviations: US: United States; SPF: sun protection factor; USFDA: United states food and drug administration; UV: ultraviolet.

Evaluation of the Food and Nutrition Value of Rubus alceifolius Poir. Fruits of Mizoram, India

Background:

Lesser known fruits and vegetables could be the source of dietary antioxidants and nutrition. However, to establish that these fruits and vegetables are important in healthy diet, it is imperative that thorough scientific investigations are performed. Results and data from such studies can also help in framing their conservation policy as well as in their promotion.

Objectives:

The present study reports for the first time the physicochemical properties, functional and antioxidant activities of the wild berry fruit Rubus alceifolius Poir collected from Mizoram, India.

Methods:

The average size, pH, juice content, the fruit acid content and dry matter content were determined. The antioxidant components of the fruit extract such as anthocyanin, β-carotene, lycopene, total phenolic and flavonoid contents were also reported.

Results:

The SPF number of the fruit calculated from Mansur’s equation was found to be 1.59 ± 0.03. HPLC analysis of the fruit extract for phenolic acids showed the presence of ellagic acid and gallic acid in the acetone-extract.

Conclusion:

Results from studies on various antioxidant activities such as DPPH scavenging, reducing capability and inhibition of lipid peroxidation indicate that the R. alceifolius fruit possesses antioxidant activities and its consumption may help in reducing the oxidative stress and preventing the various degenerative diseases associated with it.

Development and Antimicrobial Evaluation of Eruca Sativa Oil Nanoemulgel with Determination of the Oil Antioxidant, Sun Protection Factor and Elastase Inhibition

OBJECTIVES

This project aims to develop a bio-natural nano-product with Cosmeceutical and pharmaceutical applications.

METHODS

E. sativa oil was evaluated for its anti-oxidant, sun protection factor and elastase inhibition. Then, nanoemulgel formulations were prepared for E. sativa oil through the combination of nanoemulsion with hydrogel. E. sativa nanoemulsion formulations were prepared by the help of a selfemulsification technique. After this, the optimum formulation was mixed with Carbopol to produce the nanoemulgel. Anti-bacterial and anti-fungal activities were evaluated.

RESULTS

Nanoemulsion occurred when the size of the droplets was 195.29 nm with the lowest polydispersibility index 0.207. The results of antioxidant, anti-elastase and SPF activities for E. sativa oil were 2.10 µg/ml, 25.1 µg/ml and an SPF value of 5.57, respectively. In addition, in the anti-bacterial test for Staphylococcus aureus, it was found that nanoemulgel has an inhibition zone of 2.1 cm in diameter. According to the MRSA, the inhibition zone was 1.5 cm.

CONCLUSION

E. Sativa oil could be a promising candidate in cosmeceutical and pharmaceutical preparations.

Microwave Hydrodiffusion and Gravity (MHG) Extraction from Different Raw Materials with Cosmetic Applications

Microwave hydrodiffusion and gravity (MHG) and ethanolic solid-liquid extraction were compared using selected plant sources. Their bioactive profile, color features, and proximate chemical characterization were determined. MHG extracts, commercial antioxidants, and three distinct types of thermal spring water were used in a sunscreen cream formulation. Their bioactive capacity, chemical and rheological properties were evaluated. MHG Cytisus scoparius flower extract provided the highest bioactive properties. Pleurotus ostreatus MHG liquor exhibited the highest total solid extraction yield. The Brassica rapa MHG sample stood out for its total protein content and its monosaccharide and oligosaccharide concentration. Quercus robur acorns divided into quarters supplied MHG extract with the lowest energy requirements, highest DPPH inhibition percentage, total lipid content and the highest enzyme inhibition. The chemical and bioactive capacities stability of the sunscreen creams elaborated with the selected MHG extracts and the thermal spring waters showed a similar behavior than the samples containing commercial antioxidants.

Development of broad spectrum mycosporine loaded sunscreen formulation from Ulva fasciata delile

Ba.ckground: Sunscreen formulations primarily offer protection against UV induced damages however nowadays it also maintains skin natural physiological conditions. Current global market is flooded with numerous sunscreen products which offer protection to skin against several UV induced damages. However most of these sunscreen formulations offers narrow spectrum protection against UV and also suffer from stability as well as toxicity related issues.

Methods: Present work aims to isolate mycosporine amino acid (Mgy) from green alga namely Ulva fasciata (U. fasciata) and study its sunscreen potential against widely used domestic marketed formulation. Stability evaluations were also performed for almost 90 days.

Results: Results demonstrated that the isolated compound, mycosporine glycine (Mgy) preserved physicochemical properties of the product and offered good stability for all formulations throughout the experimental period. Furthermore, Mgy loaded carbopol gel showed better sunscreen protection against marketed formulation in a concentration dependent manner. (7.709).

Conclusion: (6.806) Novel Myg loaded gel was proved to demonstrate several quality characteristics that may unlock new prospects for the production of more efficient, safe, and economic skin-care products.

Formulation and evaluation of UV protective synbiotic skin care topical formulation

Objective: The objective of current study to investigate the photo protective potential of synbiotic formulation comprising of prebiotic and probiotic. Methods: Selenium nanoparticles were synthesized by chemical reduction method and investigated for physical-chemical properties including morphology, physical state, and free radical scavenging potential. Selection of probiotic biomass was made on the free radical scavenging potential by using NO assay. A topical w/o emulsion-based cream was prepared with screened ingredients to achieve a stable product with optimum free radical scavenging potential. The finished product was investigated for various mechanical, physiochemical, and viscoelastic characteristics. The SPF of optimized formulation was determined in UV-stimulated Wistar rat model. Results: Results indicated that the finished product shows nanoscale feature of elemental selenium. Cream comprising of potential free radical reagent (Selenium nanoparticles with IC₅₀ 50.097 µg/ml and biomass of Lactobacillus rhamnosus have IC₅₀ 61.63 µg/ml) exhibits a SPF of 29.77. Optimized skin care formulation has desirable physiochemical and viscoelastic properties required for topical application. Histopathology and Draize test indicated the finished product does not show any sign of skin toxicity. Conclusion: Results inferred that topical formulation combining the features of selenium and probiotic biomass offer an effective alternative for the treatment of sunburn complications.

Asperyellone prevents HDF cells from UVB irradiation damages: An elaborated study

The current study explores the photo-protective effect of asperyellone (AY) (a fungal secondary metabolite), assessed under in vitro condition using human dermal fibroblast cell line. AY was isolated from Aspergillus sp. during the resting phase and purified. The initial cytocompatibility assessment on concentrations of AY and the duration of exposure of UVB irradiations were studied respectively. N-acetyl-L-cysteine (NAC) was used as positive control. Cells were then pretreated with optimized concentration of AY (2.0 μM) and NAC (1 mM) for 1 hour and then UVB irradiated (30 mJ/cm ² ) for the period of 10 minutes. Results revealed that reactive oxygen species generated upon UVB irradiation found scavenged by the AY pretreatment at a significant level. Furthermore, an appreciable reduction in apoptotic cell count and DNA damages support the scavenging effect of AY. Assessments on the expression of enzymatic and nonenzymatic antioxidants evidently prove the protective role of AY. The reduced expression levels of inflammatory markers (TNF-α and COX-2), collagen degraders (MMP 2 and MMP 9), apoptotic protein expressions (Bax and Bcl-2), and cell-cycle arrest analyses substantiate the photo-protective effect of AY similar to NAC (positive control). Thus, the observations made in the current study indicate the possible role of AY as a photo-protective agent.

Use of Vegetable Oils to Improve the Sun Protection Factor of Sunscreen Formulations

Some vegetable oils have many biological properties, including UV-absorbing capacity. Therefore, their use has been suggested to reduce the content of organic UV-filters in sunscreen products. In this work, we investigated the feasibility of developing oil-based vehicles with a high sun protection factor (SPF) using pomegranate oil (PMG) and shea oil (BPO) in association with different percentages of organic UV-filters (octyl– methoxycinnamate, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, and bemotrizinol). We characterized the spreadability, occlusion factor, pH, and required hydrophilic lipophilic balance of the resulting formulations, and did not observe relevant differences due to the incorporation of vegetable oils. The in vitro spectrophotometric determinations of SPF values highlighted that the addition of BPO (1% (w/w)) and PMG (1% (w/w)) resulted in an increase in SPF in comparison with the same formulations that contained only organic UV-filters. The SPF increase was more significant for the formulations that contained lower amounts of organic UV-filters. The results of this study supported the hypothesis that including suitable vegetable oils in sunscreen formulations could be a promising strategy to design products with a lower content of organic UV-filters.

In vitro solar protection factor, antioxidant activity, and stability of a topical formulation containing Benitaka grape (Vitis vinifera L.) peel extract

A flavonoid enriched extract (FE) was obtained from grape peels, and in vitro SPF, antioxidant activity, and effects on cell viability of this extract were tested with the intent to develop a cosmetic product. A formulation was developed with the FE, and the stability of this mixture was evaluated in terms of pH, density, viscosity, and SPF (90-days). FE showed no cytotoxicity to human keratinocytes and an in vitro SPF of 18.56 (UV-spectrophotometry). Further, FE showed a UVA protection factor of 3.17 ± 0.2, a critical wavelength of 318.0 ± 0.1 and a UVA/UVB of 0.9. Antioxidant activity assays resulted in 92.08% and 86.85% of activity against DPPH and ABTS (IC₅₀ = 296.90 ± 1.2 µg/mL and 643.13 ± 0.9 µg/mL), respectively. Finally, SPF of formulation with FE was 12.45. Results from the in vitro SPF and product stability tests (especially storage under refrigeration), indicate that FE is a promising compound for use as an innovative sunscreen formulation.

Use of Flavonoids and Cinnamates, the Main Photoprotectors with Natural Origin

Many pathological problems are initiated by ultraviolet radiation (UVR), such as skin cancer, the most commonly diagnosed cancer worldwide. The UVA (320–400 nm) and UVB (290–320 nm) wavelengths may cause effects such as photoaging, DNA damage, and a series of cellular alterations. The UVA radiation can damage the DNA, oxidize the lipids, and produce dangerous free radicals, which can cause inflammation, modify the gene expression in response to stress, and weaken the skin immune response. With a minor penetration, the UVB radiation is more harmful, being responsible for immediate damage. Ultraviolet radiation light emitted by the sun is considered necessary for the existence of life but cause radiation problems, especially in the skin. The photoprotective activities of plant extracts and isolated composts were evaluated by many reports, as well as the correlation of these compounds with the antioxidant activity. This review presents plant compounds with interest to the cosmetic industry to be used in sunscreens such as flavonoids and cinnamates.