Application of cytogenetic model Allium cepa for screening potential cytogenotoxicity of herbal-based hair dyes

Plant models may be useful as test organisms for initial screening of potential toxicity of personal care products. The objective of the present study was to assess the efficacy of the Allium cepa (common onion) test system as a bioanalytical tool for screening potential cytotoxicity and genotoxicity of herbal-based hair dye formulations. Exposure of black hair dye formulations for 48 hours resulted in root growth retardation and mitosis suppression in the root meristems of A. cepa bulbs indicating concentration dependent cytotoxicity. At the 72 hour post exposure, cytotoxic effects on the roots were reduced but not recovered completely signifying prolong toxic action of the hair dyes. The condensed nuclei was the most frequent nuclear abnormality found in the dye exposed root meristematic cells indicating the cell death process. Induction of micronuclei and chromosomal aberrations in the root meristematic cells even at the post exposure stage indicates persistent genotoxicity of the hair dyes which may be attributed to the interactive effects of chemical mixtures present in the commercial hair dye formulations. The results revealed that A. cepa test system is an effective bioanalytical tool for screening cytogenotoxicity of commercial hair dye formulations.

Investigation on the 2D-Distribution of Metallic Elements after Hair Dyeing

Long-term use of hair dyes has potential effects on metal content in hair. However, little research dissects the specific distribution and composition variations of the metal after dyeing. In this study, we investigated the morphological change and metallic elements content variation after dyeing. The results showed that the concentration of essential metal elements decreased, among which the Ca, K, and Na decreased sharply even above 50%. As for the heavy metal, the most significant observation is that Pb increased almost by five times after dyeing. Besides, it revealed, using scanning electron microscope coupled with energy-dispersive X-ray spectroscopy (SEM-EDS), that Pb concentrated at the outer layer of the hair. In addition, two-dimensional proton-induced X-ray emission (2D-PIXE) was applied to analyze the distribution of metallic elements along the longitudinal and cross section of the hair. The results showed that Ca and Zn distributed evenly in the hair along the longitudinal and cross section. It is the first time that 2D-PIXE is applied to analyze the metallic distribution in the hair. This method exhibits high sensitivity and can be widely used in the environmental and medical field to analyze the distribution of metallic elements.

The role of chelating agents and amino acids in preventing free radical formation in bleaching systems

The control of bleaching reaction is important in hair bleaching and laundry detergents to ensure quality of the final product. A better understanding of the reaction mechanisms is needed to minimize product failures. ³¹P NMR-spectroscopy-based spin trap technique was employed to detect and quantify the free radical species that were generated in different bleaching solutions. These solutions contained the key actives in an alkaline hair colorant/bleaching product, an ammonium salt and hydrogen peroxide at pH = 10. Generally, the main radical species detected in hair oxidative coloring or bleaching processes, were hydroperoxyl/superoxide radicals HO₂·/O₂^.-, amino radicals ·NH₂ and hydroxyl radicals ·OH. Their amounts showed a variation based on the chemical composition of the bleaching systems and the metal ion content. The generation of free radicals from reactions between transition metal ions, such as copper, and hydrogen peroxide at pH = 10 was evaluated. In the absence of chelating agents, the copper ions generated a significant level of hydroxyl radicals in a Fenton-like reaction with hydrogen peroxide at pH = 10. Besides that, an increase in copper ion content led to an increase of amino radical ·NH₂, whereas the concentration of superoxide radical O₂^·- decreased which was not yet well reported in the previous literature. The effect of chelating agents like ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA), tetrasodium-iminodisuccinate (IDS), a mixture of basic amino acids and dicarboxylic acid on free radical formation was investigated in the presence of binary Cu²⁺-Ca²⁺ bleaching systems. As expected, in the binary Cu²⁺-Ca²⁺ ion system EDTA did not suppress hydroxyl radical formation effectively, but the mixture containing sodium succinate, lysine and arginine reduced hydroxyl radical formation, whereas IDS (nearly) completely inhibited hydroxyl radical formation. The results indicated that each bleaching solution has its characteristic performance and damage profile. Whereas the reactivity can be controlled by the usage of chelating agents.

The Late Stages of Melanogenesis: Exploring the Chemical Facets and the Application Opportunities

In the last decade, the late stages of melanin biosynthesis involving the oxidative polymerization of 5,6-dihydroxyindole (DHI) and 5,6-dihydroxyindole-2-carboxylic acid (DHICA) have been extensively investigated. Most of the information derived from a biomimetic approach in which the oxidation of melanogenic indoles was carried out under conditions mimicking those occurring in the biological environment. Characterization of the early oligomers allowed for drawing a structural picture of DHI and DHICA melanins, providing also an interpretative basis for the different properties exhibited by these pigments, e.g., the chromophore and the antioxidant ability. The improved knowledge has opened new perspectives toward the exploitation of the unique chemistry of melanins and its precursors in cosmetic and health care applications. A noticeable example is the development of an innovative hair dyeing system that is based on the marked ease of DHI to give rise to black melanin on air oxidation under slightly alkaline conditions. The advantage of this method for a step-wise coverage of gray hair with a natural shade pigmentation on repeated treatment with a DHI-based formulation with respect to traditional dyes is presented. A variant of DHICA melanin combining solubility in water-miscible organic solvents, an intense chromophore in the UltraViolet-A UV-A region, and a marked antioxidant potency was evaluated as an ingredient for cosmetic formulations.

Investigation of hair dye deposition, hair color loss, and hair damage during multiple oxidative dyeing and shampooing cycles

Color fastness is a major concern for consumers and manufacturers of oxidative hair dye products. Hair dye loss results from multiple wash cycles in which the hair dye is dissolved by water and leaches from the hair shaft. In this study, we carried out a series of measurements to help us better understand the kinetics of the leaching process and pathways associated with its escape from the fiber. Hair dye leaching kinetics was measured by suspending hair in a dissolution apparatus and monitoring the dye concentration in solution (leached dye) with an ultraviolet-visible spectrophotometer. The physical state of dye deposited in hair fibers was evaluated by a reflectance light microscopy technique, based on image stacking, allowing enhanced depth of field imaging. The dye distribution within the fiber was monitored by infrared spectroscopic imaging of hair fiber cross sections. Damage to the ultrafine structure of the hair cuticle (surface, endocuticle, and cell membrane complex) and cortex (cell membrane complex) was determined in hair cross sections and on the hair fiber surface with atomic force microscopy. Using differential scanning calorimetry, we investigated how consecutive coloring and leaching processes affect the internal proteins of hair. Further, to probe the surface properties of hair we utilized contact angle measurements. This study was conducted on both pigmented and nonpigmented hair to gain insight into the influence of melanin on the hair dye deposition and leaching processes. Both types of hair were colored utilizing a commercial oxidative hair dye product based on pyrazole chemistry.

A new oxidant for hair coloring

Coloring hair using a level 3 permanent colorant involves two processes, lightening the underlying melanin and information of the colored chromophores inside the hair. In a typical in-market products the oxidant used to achieve these changes is hydrogen peroxide buffered at pH 10 with an alkalizer such as ammonium hydroxide. A new oxidant has been developed based on the combination of ammonium carbonate, hydrogen peroxide and glycine at pH 9 that can match the lightening and color performance of the current oxidant. It has the advantage that both the carbonate and hydrogen peroxide concentrations can be changed to alter the lightening performance making it a more flexible oxidant. This allows the capability to lighten the hair in a shorter time, or with lower hydrogen peroxide levels. This paper discusses the key oxidizing species that are present in both systems and the mechanisms of melanin lightening. In addition, the lightening performance will be assessed as a function of time, pH, hydrogen peroxide concentration and carbonate concentration. The importance of glycine to the oxidant is also described along with a proposal for its mechanism of action. It has been demonstrated that the addition of glycine can control the undesired formation of carbonate radicals that can be generated from the oxidant. The control of these radicals enables the oxidant to deliver excellent lightening with no negatives in fiber damage bs. conventional oxidants.

Activation of T-cells from allergic patients and volunteers by p-phenylenediamine and Bandrowski's base

Allergic contact dermatitis is commonly associated with exposure to p-phenylenediamine. The aim of this study was to determine whether p-phenylenediamine (PPD) and/or Bandrowski's base (BB) stimulate T cells from allergic patients and volunteers, and to explore the relationship between T-cell immunogenicity and allergy. Lymphocytes from allergic patients proliferated with PPD and BB (n=8). Lymphocytes from 14/16 non-allergic individuals also proliferated following stimulation, but only with BB; cord blood lymphocytes failed to respond (n=6). Glutathione, which prevented BB formation, but not binding of PPD to cells and serum, did not prevent p-phenylenediamine-specific stimulation of patient lymphocytes. T-cell clones generated from allergic patients were stimulated separately with PPD and BB, while clones from volunteers proliferated with BB alone. Patient and volunteer clones secreted IL-4, IL-5, IL-13, TNF-alpha, MIP-1alpha, MIP-1beta, and RANTES. These data show that activation of T lymphocytes from allergic individuals alone with PPD represents an important discrimination between allergic and non-allergic groups. BB-specific T cells are found in both allergic patients and volunteers, but not in cord blood. Their presence seems to reflect an acquired immune response, which is not translated into an allergic reaction.

Intermittent exposure to low-concentration paraphenylenediamine can be equivalent to single, higher-dose exposure

Hair dye allergy is an important and increasingly common cause of allergic contact dermatitis. The role of repeated exposure in elicitation of allergy has not previously been extensively studied. We have therefore compared elicitation between single and intermittent exposure to paraphenylenediamine (PPD). 23 subjects known to be allergic to PPD from positive patch tests were exposed to 0.3% and 0.03% PPD, both in petrolatum and water, for 5 min at the same site every day for up to 8 D. In the same subjects, single exposures were also performed at different sites, from 5 to 40 min. Other experiments exposed rat skin to radiolabelled PPD as one-off application or multiple exposures. There were 8 reactions in the cumulative exposure site using 0.3% PPD in aqueous solution. In 7 of these, there was an exact correlation with reaction to the cumulative time needed for repeat exposures to elicit a reaction and the time needed for a reaction to the single exposure. There were no reactions to 0.03% PPD in water or pet under either type of exposure condition. There was also a positive correlation between grade of original reaction in clinic (+++, ++, +) and appearance/intensity of elicitation reactions. In the animal study, cumulative time and single exposure time sites correlated with regards to retention of radiolabelled substance within the skin. This study therefore demonstrates for the first time that, over the time period tested, the allergenic component of PPD accumulates in the skin. Hence, intermittent exposure to lower concentrations of PPD may be equivalent to higher concentration, one-off exposure.

Activation of Human Dendritic Cells by p-Phenylenediamine

Exposure to p-phenylenediamine (pPD), a primary intermediate in hair dye formulations, is often associated with the development of allergic contact dermatitis. Such reactions involve activation of the subject's immune system. The aim of these studies was to explore the relationship between pPD oxidation and functional maturation of human monocyte-derived dendritic cells in vitro. Dendritic cells were incubated with pPD and Bandrowski's base (BB) for 16 h, and expression of the costimulatory receptors CD40, CD80, CD83, CD86, and major histocompatibility complex class II intracellular glutathione levels and cell viability were measured. In certain experiments, glutathione (1 mM) was added to culture medium. Liquid chromatography-mass spectrometry (LC-MS) analysis and exhaustive solvent extraction were used to monitor the rate of [(14)C]pPD oxidation and the extent of pPD binding to cellular and serum protein, respectively. Proliferation of allogeneic lymphocytes was determined by incorporation of [(3)H]thymidine. Exposure of dendritic cells to pPD (5-50 microM), but not BB, was associated with an increase in CD40 and MHC class II expression and proliferation of allogeneic lymphocytes. Dendritic cell activation with pPD was not associated with apoptotic or necrotic cell death or depletion of glutathione. Neither pPD nor BB altered dendritic cell expression of CD80, CD83, or CD86. LC-MS analysis revealed pPD was rapidly oxidized in cell culture media to BB. Addition of glutathione inhibited BB formation but did not prevent covalent binding of pPD to dendritic cell protein or dendritic cell activation. Collectively, these studies show that pPD, but not BB, selectively activates human dendritic cells in vitro.

[Colouring balms in a system of testing of their potential mutagenic action in genetically modified microorganisms]

Using the Ames semiquantitative technique with metabolic activation by the postmitochondrial fraction of rat liver homogenate preprocessed by phenobarbital sodium salt (for induction of monooxygenases of mixed function) potential mutagenic activity of 17 colouring balms which are used as cosmetic products for hair dyeing has been studied. The balms include water soluble dyes and pigments depositing on the surface of the hair. Potential mutagenic activity of almost all investigated colouring products has been shown. Three compositions (red tree, chestnut and black) have appeared to be the most active inductors of gene mutations showing the effect of "mean force" according to our classification. One of balms (burgund) has appeared as genetically inert. The rest balms have shown mutagen effect of "gentle force" with the ratio of control value excess from 2 up to 5-fold.

Evaluation of three methods for effective extraction of DNA from human hair

In this paper we evaluate three different methods for extracting DNA from human hair i.e. the Chelex method, the QIAamp DNA Mini Kit method and the ISOHAIR method. Analysis of DNA prepared from dyed hairs with the ISOHAIR method suggested that the DNA extracts contained PCR inhibitors. On the other hand, few inhibition was observed when DNA from dyed hairs were extracted using the Chelex method and the QIAamp DNA Mini Kit method. In conclusion, the Chelex method is recommended for PCR experiments in view of its simplicity and cost-effectiveness. To assess the reliability of the Chelex method for the extraction of genomic DNA from both natural and dyed hair samples, minisatellite variant repeat (MVR)-polymerase chain reaction (PCR) patterns of Chelex-extracted DNA were compared using hairs (three natural black hairs and three dyed hairs) with buccal swabs from six individuals. Complete agreement was observed between hair and swab samples in each individual, proving the utility of the Chelex method.

Hair color changes caused by dyeing and thermal treatments

The aim of this study was to show the effect of heat exposure, dyeing, and shampooing on hair color as measured by diffuse reflectance spectrophotometry. Successive dyeing of virgin hair with six permanent commercial formulations showed that color saturation was obtained after the first dyeing cycle. An unexpectedly high difference in hair color saturation, measured as DE* values, was obtained for virgin hair samples that differed only in cleansing history. After six sequential washings of the dyed hair samples, no difference was observed in color durability, indicating that the adhesion strength is similar to long-lasting and tone-up dyeing formulations. Exposure to a hot plate at 172 degrees C showed a significant darkening of the virgin hair samples after 2 min. On the other hand, virgin hair samples exposed to the gentler heat of a hand dryer (approximately 60 degrees C) showed partial disappearance of the hair medulla after 60 min. However, values of total color difference were near the error limit.

Hair cycle and hair pigmentation: dynamic interactions and changes associated with aging

The tight coupling of hair follicle melanogenesis to the hair growth cycle dramatically distinguishes follicular melanogenesis from the continuous melanogenesis of the epidermis. Cyclic re-construction of an intact hair follicle pigmentary unit occurs optimally in all scalp hair follicles during only the first 10 hair cycles, i.e. by approximately 40 years of age. Thereafter there appears to be a genetically regulated exhaustion of the pigmentary potential of each individual hair follicle leading to the formation of true gray and white hair. Pigment dilution results primarily from a reduction in tyrosinase activity within hair bulbar melanocytes. Thereafter, sub-optimal melanocyte-cortical keratinocyte interactions, and defective migration of melanocytes from a reservoir in the upper outer root sheath to the pigment-permitting microenvironment close to the follicular papilla of the hair bulb, will all disrupt normal function of the pigmentary unit. Evidence from studies on epidermal melanocyte aging suggest that reactive oxygen species-mediated damage to nuclear and mitochondrial DNA may lead to mutation accumulation in bulbar melanocytes. Parallel dysregulation of anti-oxidant mechanisms or pro/anti-apoptotic factors is also likely to occur within the cells. Pigment loss in canities may also affect keratinocyte proliferation and differentiation, providing the tantalizing suggestion that melanocytes in the hair follicle contribute far more that packages of pigment alone. Here, we review the current state of knowledge of the development, regulation and control of the aging human hair follicle pigmentary system in relation with hair cycling. The exploitation of recently available methodologies to manipulate hair follicle melanocytes in vitro, and the observations that melanocytes remain in senile white hair follicles that can be induced to pigment in culture, raises the possibility of someday reversing canities. The perspective of rejuvenation of the whole hair follicle apparatus are still part of the dream but optimising its functional properties is clinically relevant and is close to reality. Finally as hair color influences its visibility when optical methods such as scalp photography are used to count hair fibers, the attention is drawn to possible interpretations of statistically significant changes in visible hair. Such changes may not exclusively be related to improved hair growth itself but also to changes in natural hair color that makes the hair more visible with the method used to count hairs.

Cosmetic assessment of the human hair by confocal microscopy

The optical sectioning property of the confocal microscope offers a breakthrough from the classic observation of the hair in a scanning electron microscope (SEM). Confocal microscopy requires minimal sampling preparation, and the hair can be observed in its natural environment with less damage than by other microscopic methods such as SEM. While used in the reflection mode, the true morphology of the cuticle and the various exogenous deposits at the surface can be identified and quantified. This relatively noninvasive, nondestructive technique is routinely used by us to monitor the efficiency of cleansing shampoos, to assess the homogeneity of layering polymers, and to evaluate the changes they induce in the optical properties of the hair surface in terms of opacity, transparency, and brilliancy. A second important field of investigation uses the fluorescence channel which reveals the internal structure of the hair. Fluorescent probes (rhodamine and its derivatives) demonstrate the routes of penetration and outline the geometry of cortical cells and of the medulla according to their lipophilic or hydrophilic properties. A volume rendering of a hair cylinder provides a better understanding of the interrelationships between cuticle cells, cortical cells, and the medullar channel. This recent technology is becoming an invaluable tool for the cosmetic assessment of the hair.

Metal-mediated oxidative DNA damage induced by nitro-2-aminophenols

Two hair dye components, carcinogenic 4-nitro-2-aminophenol and 5-nitro-2-aminophenol, induced Cu(II)-dependent DNA cleavage frequently at thymine and guanine residues in DNA fragments obtained from the c-Ha-ras-1 protooncogene. When the p53 tumor suppressor gene was used, 4-nitro-2-aminophenol caused Cu(II)-dependent piperidine-labile sites at poly G sequences. In the presence of Cu(II), both components increased 8-oxo-7,8-dihydro-2'-deoxyguanosine formation in DNA. The inhibitory effects of catalase and bathocuproine on DNA damage suggest the involvement of H2O2 and Cu(I). It is speculated that nitro-2-aminophenols undergo Cu(II)-mediated autoxidation to generate active oxygen species causing DNA damage which leads to their carcinogenesis.

Hair sulfur amino acid analysis

This overview emphasizes present aspects of sulfur-containing amino acids in hair. A selection of analytical procedures to determine cystine, cysteine, S-sulfocysteine, cystine oxide, cysteic acid, lanthionine and lysinoalanine are presented. The methods relate to intact hair or partial and total hydrolysates and comprise chromatography, titration, colorimetry, polarography and spectroscopy. For the analysis of cysteine, cystine and cystine oxides, polarography and spectroscopy are the methods of choice. Cysteic acid, lanthionine and lysinoalanine are analysed by means of ion-exchange chromatography (Spackman et al., 1958) after total hydrolysis.

Influence of the cosmetic treatment of hair on drug testing

An important issue of concern for drug analysis in hair is the change in the drug concentration induced by the cosmetic treatment of hair. The products used for this treatment are strong bases and they are expected to cause hair damage. As a result drugs may be lost from the hair matrix or, under conditions of environmental contamination, be more easily incorporated into the hair matrix. We investigated the effects of cosmetic treatment in vivo by analysing hair samples selected from people who had treated their hair by bleaching or dyeing before sample collection. All of the subjects admitted a similar drug consumption during the time period for which the strands were analysed. Samples were viewed under a microscope to establish the degree of hair damage. Treated and untreated portions from each lock of hair were then selected, separated and analysed by standard detection procedures for cocaine, opiates, cannabinoids and nicotine. In all cases the drug content in hair that had undergone cosmetic treatment decreased in comparison to untreated hair. The majority of the mean differences were in the range of 40%-60% (cocaine, benzoylecgonine, codeine, 6-acetylmorphine and THC-COOH). For morphine the mean difference was higher than 60%, and two cases (THC and nicotine) differed by approx. 30%. These differences depended not only on the type of cosmetic treatment, as bleaching produced higher decreases than dyeing, but also on the degree of hair damage i.e. the more damaged the hair, the larger the differences in the concentration levels of drugs.

Confocal microscopy of hair

Confocal microscopy is an excellent method for studying the localization of fluorescent stains. Used in this way, superior 3D images can be obtained from multiple optical sections with very shallow depth of field. The main advantage of this technique is that the sample is not damaged. We have taken serial confocal sections of hair and via specific image enhancement routines have obtained high-quality 3D images enabling the visualization of cuticle scale and its pattern of distribution. This has been done on various types of hair: bleached, permed and in certain pathological conditions. This first step will allow us to characterize the hair surface in terms of its roughness, and the distribution and form of cuticular scale, parameters that have potential in the assessment of dermocosmetic efficacy.

Hair analysis for drugs of abuse: evaluation of analytical methods, environmental issues, and development of reference materials

Methods for extraction of cocaine, some of its metabolites, morphine, and codeine from hair and methods for analyzing the extracts have been investigated. Results of these studies have shown that extractions with 0.1N HCl are efficient at removing the target compounds from hair and appear to be as effective as enzymatic digestions that dissolve the hair. GC/MS with either electron ionization or chemical ionization was found to provide accurate and unambiguous determinations of the target compounds. Tandem mass spectrometry (MS/MS) also provided accurate results when performed on extracts from hair, but results were ambiguous when MS/MS was performed on hair segments directly. Environmental issues, including the removal of powdered and vapor-deposited cocaine from the hair surface and the effect of various hair treatments on the levels of cocaine entrapped in hair, have also been investigated. Removal of cocaine deposited on hair was incomplete by all approaches tested, making differentiation of hair of cocaine users from hair with environmental exposure of cocaine difficult. Cocaethylene, a cocaine metabolite believed to be formed in the liver, was found in the hair of some cocaine users and may be a good marker for proving drug use. Common hair treatments, such as shampoos, conditioners, and peroxide bleaches, reduced cocaine levels in a fortified hair material by 60 to 80% after 30 treatments. Finally, to assist laboratories in evaluating the accuracy of their methods, two human hair reference materials with recommended concentrations of cocaine, benzoylecgonine, morphine, and codeine determined by GC/MS have been developed.

Effect of hair dyes and bleach on the hair protein patterns as revealed by isoelectric focusing

The effect of hair dyes, i.e., temporary, semi-permanent, or permanent hair dyes, or hair bleach on the isoelectric focusing (IEF) hair protein patterns was studied. A permanent hair dye (metallic, alkaline oxidative, or acidic oxidative) and hair bleach induced changes in the IEF hair protein patterns and in the intensity of hair protein bands. The changes in the IEF patterns, caused by the alkaline oxidative dye or the bleach, are considered to result from the combined effect of an alkaline agent and an oxidative agent in the alkaline oxidative dye and in the hair bleach.

Mutagenic evaluation of the monocyclic aromatic amine N-methylamino-2-nitro-4-N', N'-bis(2-hydroxyethyl)-aminobenzene in the Salmonella typhimurium/mammalian microsome test

The hair-dye component N-methylamino-2-nitro-4-N', N'-bis(2-hydroxyethyl) aminobenzene was investigated for mutagenic activity in Salmonella typhimurium strains TA1535, TA100, TA1537, TA1538 and TA98. The testing was performed in the absence and in the presence of a rat-liver microsomal activation system induced by Aroclor 1254. Our results indicate that N-methylamino-2-nitro-4-N', N'-bis(2-hydroxyethyl)aminobenzene does not induce mutations in Salmonella typhimurium strains, either in the absence or in the presence of the metabolic activation system. The purity of the compound was controlled by utilizing high-pressure liquid chromatography (HPLC) and thin-layer chromatography (TLC).

Evaluation of the mutagenic potential of the hair dye N-methyl-amino-2-nitro-4-N',N'-bis-(2-hydroxyethyl)-aminobenzene in a battery consisting of Drosophila and mammalian cytogenetic assays

The compound N-methyl-amino-2-nitro-4-N', N'-bis(2-hydroxyethyl)-aminobenzene was tested for mutagenic activity in the sex-linked recessive lethal test with Drosophila melanogaster, the induction of chromosomal aberrations and sister-chromatid exchanges (SCEs) with Chinese hamster ovary (CHO) cells in vitro, and the micronucleus test with mouse bone-marrow cells in vivo. Consistently negative results were obtained with the 3 tests. The SCE tests gave positive results with prolonged treatments. It is concluded that reliable decisions about mutagenic activity cannot be based on the induction, in vitro, of SCEs alone.

Lack of genotoxic properties of the hair-dye component N-methyl-amino-2-nitro-4-N',N'-bis-(2-hydroxyethyl)-aminobenzene, in mammalian cells in vitro, and in yeasts

N-Methyl-amino-2-nitro-4-N',N'-bis-(2-hydroxyethyl)-aminobenzene is a hair-dye ingredient. Its potential ability to induce gene mutations, in the yeast S. pombe and in cultured mammalian CH-V79 cells, mitotic gene conversion in the yeast S. cerevisiae, and unscheduled DNA synthesis in cultured human HeLa cells was evaluated. The chemical proved unable to induce detectable genotoxic effects according to these tests. The present data, together with others that show that the chemical is not mutagenic in Salmonella typhimurium or Drosophila, and is not clastogenic in mammalian cytogenetic assays (in vitro or in vivo), strongly support the non-genotoxicity of the chemical.

Mutagenic evaluation of the hair-dye component 2,4-diaminophenoxyethanol in Salmonella typhimurium/microsome plate test and Saccharomyces cerevisiae strains D4 and XV185-14C

The hair-dye coupler 2,4-diaminophenoxyethanol was tested for mutagenicity in the histidine-requiring mutants of Salmonella typhimurium (TA1535, TA100, TA1537, TA1538 and TA98). The tests were carried out in the absence and presence of uninduced as well as an Aroclor-1254-induced rat-liver microsomal activation system. In the absence and presence of uninduced S9 this compound was not mutagenic in all strains used. Negative results were also obtained in the presence of an Aroclor-1254-induced rat-liver microsomal activation system. The mutagenic activity of this compound was also investigated in 2 systems of yeast, the gene conversion system with strain D4 and the reversion system with strain XV185-14C. In the absence and presence of metabolic activation, no mutagenic effect was observed.

The activity of 2-(2',4'-diaminophenoxy)ethanol in 3 genetic toxicity bioassays

2-(2',4'-Diaminophenoxy)-ethanol, a hair-dye ingredient was evaluated for genetic activity in vitro using urine collected from mice in an Ames test and in vivo using the mouse dominant-lethal assay and the mouse spot test for somatic mutation detection. All 3 studies were conducted using dermal application of the dye material to shaved skin. The applied dose levels ranged from 15 to 1500 mg/kg body weight. The results of these 3 studies were considered to be negative although urine analysis and spot-test data showed non-significant dose-related increases.

Lack of genotoxic activity of 2-(2',4'-diaminophenoxy)ethanol in Escherichia coli strains WP2, WP2uvrA and WP2uvrA/recA

A new hair-dyeing ingredient, 2-(2',4'-diaminophenoxy)ethanol, was tested for its genotoxic potential with Escherichia coli WP2, WP2uvrA and WP2uvrA/recA. The tests were conducted in the presence and absence of a post-mitochondrial supernatant fraction from the livers of male rats induced with Aroclor 1254. Tests for DNA damage and repair and tests for mutagenic activity failed to demonstrate any genotoxic potential associated with the compound.

An evaluation of the mutagenic potential of 2-(2',4'-diaminophenoxy)ethanol using the micronucleus test

The micronucleus test in mice was used to investigate the mutagenic potential of 2-(2',4'-diaminophenoxy)ethanol. The test compound was administered by oral gavage to CD-1 mice (ICR derived) as 2 equal dosages of 250,500 and 1000 mg/kg bodyweight. Bone-marrow smears were examined for the presence of micronucleated cells in 2000 polychromatic erythrocytes per animal. In addition, the ratio of normochromatic to polychromatic erythrocytes was scored to provide an indication of the toxicity of the test compound to bone marrow cells. No increase in the incidence of micronucleated polychromatic erythrocytes was observed for any group dosed with 2-(2',4'-diaminophenoxy)ethanol, although evidence of bone-marrow toxicity was observed at all 3 dosages.

Mutagenic studies on the hair dye 2-(2',4'-diaminophenoxy)ethanol with different genetic systems

A new hair-dye coupler, 2-(2',4'-diaminophenoxy)ethanol was analyzed for its potential mutagenic activity in different genotoxic assays, namely gene reverse mutations in Salmonella typhimurium, forward mutations in the yeast Schizosaccharomyces pombe, and in the V79 Chinese hamster cell line grown in vitro (HGPRT forward mutation system). Two other genetic test systems, measuring the mitotic gene conversion in Saccharomyces cerevisiae (strain D4) and the unscheduled DNA-repair synthesis in a HeLa cell line grown in vitro, were also used. 2,4-Diaminoanisole, a mutagenic/carcinogenic structurally related hair-dye coupler, and a group of well-known mutagens, namely methyl methanesulfonate, ethyl methanesulfonate, cychlophosphamide, hycanthone and N-nitrosodimethylamine, were used as positive controls. The new aromatic amine, 2-(2',4'-diaminophenoxy)ethanol, was negative in all the assays performed, under the same treatment conditions as in the case of all the positive controls.

A review of the genotoxicity of food, drug and cosmetic colours and other azo, triphenylmethane and xanthene dyes

The genetic toxicology of the major dyestuffs used in foods, drugs and cosmetics has been reviewed. Published data for azo, triphenylmethane and xanthene dyes from short-term assays for muta-carcinogenicity have been summarized and discussed according to usage, current and previous worldwide legislative status. Certain other synthetic food dyes, commercial mixtures, natural and polymeric colourants as well as a section on aminoazobenzene and its derivatives have been included. Genotoxicity has been discussed with reference to structural chemistry, levels of exposure, absorption and metabolism and to epidemiological information. The extent of agreement between data from different tests and correlations with animal cancer assays have been considered. Synthetic dyes from the 3 major structural classes exhibit genotoxicity, whilst only 2 natural colours have proved active. Activity may be due to the presence of certain functional groups, notably nitro- and amino-substituents which are metabolized to ultimate electrophiles that may be stabilized by electronic interaction with aryl rings. Metabolic processes such as azo-reduction may be activating or detoxifying. the low but significant correlation between animal carcinogenicity and short-term test data may be increased with further screening, especially involving chromosome assays. It is suggested that a human cancer hazard may exist where significant quantities of finished benzidine dye samples are handled. Such risks from exposures to other colours and the possibility of human germ-line mutation induction by dyestuffs cannot be meaningfully assessed.

The effect of dimethylsulfoxide on the mutagenicity of the hair dye p-phenylenediamine

Published data on the mutagenicity of the oxidative hair dye intermediate p-phenylenediamine in the Ames test are conflicting. The work reported here resolves the discrepancies, showing that the activity of p-phenylenediamine in the Ames Salmonella/microsome test is markedly influenced by the use of dimethylsulfoxide as solvent, and by the age of the solution prior to plating. Thus, aqueous solutions of p-phenylenediamine are non-mutagenic; fresh solutions in DMSO are equally non-mutagenic, but become highly active on standing at room temperature for 4 hr. These results suggest the need for caution in the choice of solvents and tight controls in the execution of the test.

Sister-chromatid exchanges before and after hair dyeing

Sister-chromatid exchanges (SCE( in the peripheral lymphocytes of 13 women and 1 man were scored immediately before, 6 h after and 7 days after the application of a hair dye by a professional hairdresser under normal conditions. All the hair dyes used in this study gave positive results when tested in the Salmonella/microsome test for mutagenic activity. 6 volunteers showed increases and 8 showed decreases in mean numbers of SCE per cell 6 h after dyeing: 2 of these increases and 3 of the decreases wee statistically significant. when the mean SCE per cell of the who group were compared there were no significant difference between the pre-dyeing sample and the 2 samples taken 6 h or 7 days after dyeing. It was concluded that single applications of proprietary hair dyes cause no consistent increase in the SCE levels in the peripheral lymphocytes of the people taking part in this study.

Induction of mitotic recombination by certain hair-dye chemicals in Saccharomyces cerevisiae

A number of procedures were used to test for the potential of 5 hair-dye chemicals, 4-nitro-o-phenylenediamine, 2-nitro-p-phenylenediamine, m-phenylenediamine 2,4-diaminoanisole sulfate and 2,5-diaminoanisole sulfate, to induce genetic damage in yeast strains D3 and D4 of Saccharomyces cerevisiae. Various plate-test procedures, short-term suspension assays in phosphate buffer and suspension assays with liver enzyme activation all proved to be ineffective for demonstrating genetic effects of these chemicals. Only suspension assays in which the yeast cells were treated with the test chemical under growing conditions for up to 72 h were effective in demonstrating the genetic activity of 4-nitro-o-phenylenediamine and 2,4-diaminoanisole sulfate. The implications of these results for testing of mutagens in yeast systems are discussed along with other supportive evidence from the literature.

Dominant lethal assay of some hair-dye components in random-bred male rats

Male rats were exposed to maximally tolerated doses of 5 hair-dye components in a dominant lethal test. Each component was tested at 3 dosage levels with 15 random-bred male rats per level. The highest dose, selected on the basis of subacute toxicity testing, generally reduced weight gains without being lethal. Freshly prepared solutions were injected i.p. at 1 ml/kg 3 times a week for 10 weeks. Rats injected with dimethylsulfoxide and triethylenemelamine served as solvent and positive controls, respectively. A majority of rats survived the treatment at the levels tested and were mated to two virgin females each per week for 2 weeks. The females were sacrificed at midterm of pregnancy and examined for live and dead implants. Dominant lethality was evaluated on the basis of 4 criteria: dead implants per pregnant female, dead implants per total implants, proportion of females with one or more dead implants, and proportion of females with two or more dead implants. 2-Nitro-p-phenylenediamine, 2,4-diaminoanisole sulfate and 2,5-diaminoanisole sulfate produced negative responses, whereas m-phenylenediamine and 4-nitro-o-phenylenediamine induced weak dominant lethality in the first trial. On retesting these weakly positive components, both m-phenylenediamine and 4-nitro-o-phenylenediamine produced negative responses.

Detection of mutagens in the urine of rats following topical application of hair dyes

Mutagens were detected in the urine of rats following topical application of two commercial oxidative-type hair dye preparations. The test system used was induction of back mutation with the bacterial tester strain TA1538, a histidine-dependent mutant of Salmonella typhimurium. Various quantities of dye were applied to the shortened hair on the backs of the test animals. The dye was allowed to remain on the hair for 20 min after application and was then removed by shampooing and thorough rinsing. Maximal levels of mutagenic activity occurred with urine collected during first 24 h following dye application, and a dose--response was observed when increasing volumes of mutagenic urine were tested. Mutagens were detected in rat urine after intraperitoneal injection, and also after topical application of 4-nitro-o-phenylenediamine, one of the constituents of the hair-dye preparations.

The mutagenic assay of some hair dye components, using the thymidine kinase locus of L5178Y mouse lymphoma cells

Five hair dye components were tested for their mutagenicity at the TK +/- locus of L5178Y cells. Three of the components, m-phenylenediamine, 2 nitro-p-phenylenediamine, and 4-nitro-o-phenylenediamine, gave a positive response that was dose related; 2,4-diaminoanisole gave a questionable response; and 2,5-diaminoanisole gave a negative response. The assay was carried out in vitro without metabolic activation during a 24-hr chemical exposure period. It is concluded that further in vivo tests are necessary to establish the safety of the hair dyes.