Natural products as photoprotection

Chemical Distance Measurement and System Pharmacology Approach Uncover the Novel Protective Effects of Biotransformed Ginsenoside C-Mc against UVB-Irradiated Photoaging

Long-term exposure to ultraviolet light induces photoaging and may eventually increase the risk of skin carcinogenesis. Rare minor ginsenosides isolating from traditional medicine Panax (ginseng) have shown biomedical efficacy as antioxidation and antiphotodamage agents. However, due to the difficulty of component extraction and wide variety of ginsenoside, the identification of active antiphotoaging ginsenoside remains a huge challenge. In this study, we proposed a novel in silico approach to identify potential compound against photoaging from 82 ginsenosides. Specifically, we calculated the shortest distance between unknown and known antiphotoaging ginsenoside set in the chemical space and applied chemical structure similarity assessment, drug-likeness screening, and ADMET evaluation for the candidates. We highlighted three rare minor ginsenosides (C-Mc, Mx, and F2) that possess high potential as antiphotoaging agents. Among them, C-Mc deriving from American ginseng (Panax quinquefolius L.) was validated by wet-lab experimental assays and showed significant antioxidant and cytoprotective activity against UVB-induced photodamage in human dermal fibroblasts. Furthermore, system pharmacology analysis was conducted to explore the therapeutic targets and molecular mechanisms through integrating global drug-target network, high quality photoaging-related gene profile from multiomics data, and skin tissue-specific expression protein network. In combination with in vitro assays, we found that C-Mc suppressed MMP production through regulating the MAPK/AP-1/NF-κB pathway and expedited collagen synthesis via the TGF-β/Smad pathway, as well as enhanced the expression of Nrf2/ARE to hold a balance of endogenous oxidation. Overall, this study offers an effective drug discovery framework combining in silico prediction and in vitro validation, uncovering that ginsenoside C-Mc has potential antiphotoaging properties and might be a novel natural agent for use in oral drug, skincare products, or functional food.

Elucidating the photoprotective properties of natural UV screening agents: ZEKE-PFI spectroscopy of methyl sinapate

As a prominent derivative of a natural sunscreen, methyl sinapate is an ideal candidate to provide fundamental insight into strategies on how to come to a rational design of artificial sunscreen filters with improved photoprotective properties. Here, static and time-resolved Zero Kinetic Energy-Pulsed Field Ionization (ZEKE-PFI) photoelectron spectroscopy has been used to study the spectroscopy and decay pathways of its electronically excited states. We find that different conformers are subject to distinct structural changes upon electronic excitation, and trace the structural changes that occur upon excitation back to the character of the LUMO. Ionization efficiency spectra in combination with pump-probe ZEKE-PFI spectra are consistent with the conclusion that the long-lived electronically excited state observed in the decay of the lowest excited singlet state is the lowest excited triplet state. Concurrently with providing information on the electronically excited states, the studies allow for a detailed characterization of the spectroscopic properties of the ground state of the radical ion, which is important in the context of the use of cinnamates in nature as antioxidants. Our studies determine the adiabatic ionization energies of the syn/cis, anti/cis and anti/trans conformers as 60 291.1 ± 0.5, 60 366.9 ± 0.5 and 60 503.9 ± 1.0 cm^-1, respectively, and provide accurate vibrational fequencies of low-frequency modes of the molecular ion in its electronic ground state. Finally, the studies emphasize the important role of vibrational and electronic autoionization processes that start to dominate the ionization dynamics in non-rigid molecules of the present size.

Tomatoes: An Extensive Review of the Associated Health Impacts of Tomatoes and Factors That Can Affect Their Cultivation

Simple Summary

The research outlined in this review paper discusses potential health benefits associated with a diet enriched with tomatoes and tomato products. This includes details of previous studies investigating the anticancer properties of tomatoes, protection against cardiovascular and neurodegenerative diseases and diabetes, maintenance of a healthy gut microbiome, and improved skin health, fertility, immune response, and exercise recovery. The specific parts of a tomato fruit that contribute these health benefits are also outlined. The potential disadvantages to a tomato-rich diet are detailed, especially the consumption of supplements that contain compounds found in tomatoes, such as lycopene. This review also discusses how the cultivation of tomato plants can affect the nutritional value of the fruit harvested. Different environmental growing conditions such as light intensity, growing media, and temperature are explained in terms of the impact they have on the quality of fruit, its nutrient content, and hence the potential health benefits acquired from eating the fruit.

Abstract

This review outlines the health benefits associated with the regular consumption of tomatoes and tomato products. The first section provides a detailed account of the horticultural techniques that can impact the quality of the fruit and its nutritional properties, including water availability, light intensity, temperature, and growing media. The next section provides information on the components of tomato that are likely to contribute to its health effects. The review then details some of the health benefits associated with tomato consumption, including anticancer properties, cardiovascular and neurodegenerative diseases and skin health. This review also discusses the impact tomatoes can have on the gut microbiome and associated health benefits, including reducing the risk of inflammatory bowel diseases. Other health benefits of eating tomatoes are also discussed in relation to effects on diabetes, the immune response, exercise recovery, and fertility. Finally, this review also addresses the negative effects that can occur as a result of overconsumption of tomato products and lycopene supplements.

HPLC-DAD phenolics screening and in vitro investigation of haemostatic, antidiabetic, antioxidant and photoprotective properties of Centaurea tougourensis Boiss. & Reut

Introduction

Traditional medicine has an important place in human history and this since antiquity. Indeed, during Egyptian and Chinese civilization era, many detailed manuscripts, describing the therapeutic effect of plants, were found which suggest that folk medicine is the basis of the actual medicine.

Objective

To investigate the phytochemical and pharmacological properties of the n-butanol (n-BuOH) and ethyl acetate (EA) extracts of the aerial part of Centaurea tougourensis.

Methods

The phytochemical evaluation was done based on HPLC-DAD approach. The antioxidant activity was determined by DPPH and cupric ion reducing antioxidant capacity (CUPRAC), while the hemostatic effect was performed using plasma recalcification time (PRT) method. The antidiabetic capacity was investigated by alpha-amylase inhibition assay and the photoprotective test was evaluated by the measurement of sun protection factor (SPF).

Results

13 phenolic compounds were identified in both extracts of C. tougourensis. These extracts showed antioxidant, haemostatic, antidiabetic and photoprotective properties with a dose-dependent manner. Amounts of n-BuOH activities were found higher, with a respective IC50 value of 0.72±0.07 μg/ml in DPPH assay, an A0.50 value lower than 3.125 μg/ml in CUPRAC assay besides a shortening rate percentage of coagulation (86.71%) in haemostatic assay, a moderate inhibition effect on alpha amylase activity with an IC50 value of (711.5±0.03 μg/ml) and a maximum sun protection factor of (56.035). These results were mostly found highly significant (p<0.001) when compared to respective standards.

Conclusion

This study demonstrated some pharmacological effects of C. tougourensis which suggests that our plant could be a good candidate to treat some illnesses related to oxidative stress, bleeding or skin cancer.

Effect of the flavonoids quercetin and taxifolin on UVA-induced damage to human primary skin keratinocytes and fibroblasts

The ultraviolet (UV) part of solar radiation can permanently affect skin tissue. UVA photons represent the most abundant UV component and stimulate the formation of intracellular reactive oxygen species (ROS), leading to oxidative damage to various biomolecules. Several plant-derived polyphenols are known as effective photoprotective agents. This study evaluated the potential of quercetin (QE) and its structurally related flavonoid taxifolin (TA) to reduce UVA-caused damage to human primary dermal fibroblasts (NHDF) and epidermal keratinocytes (NHEK) obtained from identical donors. Cells pre-treated with QE or TA (1 h) were then exposed to UVA light using a solar simulator. Both flavonoids effectively prevented oxidative damage, such as ROS generation, glutathione depletion, single-strand breaks formation and caspase-3 activation in NHDF. These protective effects were accompanied by stimulation of Nrf2 nuclear translocation, found in non-irradiated and irradiated NHDF and NHEK, and expression of antioxidant proteins, such as heme oxygenase-1, NAD(P)H:quinone oxidoreductase 1 and catalase. For most parameters, QE was more potent than TA. On the other hand, TA demonstrated protection within the whole concentration range, while QE lost its protective ability at the highest concentration tested (75 μM), suggesting its pro-oxidative potential. In summary, QE and TA demonstrated UVA-protective properties in NHEK and NHDF obtained from identical donors. However, due to the in vitro phototoxic potential of QE, published elsewhere and discussed herein, further studies are needed to evaluate QE safety in dermatological application for humans as well as to confirm our results on human skin ex vivo and in clinical trials.

Natural Antioxidants from Plant Extracts in Skincare Cosmetics: Recent Applications, Challenges and Perspectives

In recent years, interest in the health effects of natural antioxidants has increased due to their safety and applicability in cosmetic formulation. Nevertheless, efficacy of natural antioxidants in vivo is less documented than their prooxidant properties in vivo. Plant extracts rich in vitamins, flavonoids, and phenolic compounds can induce oxidative damage by reacting with various biomolecules while also providing antioxidant properties. Because the biological activities of natural antioxidants differ, their effectiveness for slowing the aging process remains unclear. This review article focuses on the use of natural antioxidants in skincare and the possible mechanisms underlying their desired effect, along with recent applications in skincare formulation and their limitations.

Protective Effects of Ethanol Extract of Brazilian Green Propolis and Apigenin against Weak Ultraviolet Ray-B-Induced Barrier Dysfunction via Suppressing Nitric Oxide Production and Mislocalization of Claudin-1 in HaCaT Cells

Once weak ultraviolet ray-B (UVB) irradiates the skin cells, the generation of reactive nitrogen species (RNS), but not reactive oxygen species (ROS), is stimulated for the mislocalization of claudin-1 (CLDN1), an essential protein for forming tight junctions (TJs). Since our skin is constantly exposed to sunlight throughout our lives, an effective protection strategy is needed to maintain the skin barrier against weak UVB. In the present study, we investigated whether an ethanol extract of Brazilian green propolis (EBGP) and flavonoids had a protective effect against weak UVB irradiation-induced barrier dysfunction in human keratinocyte-derived HaCaT cells. A pretreatment with EBGP suppressed TJ permeability, RNS production, and the nitration level of CLDN1 in the weak UVB-exposed cells. Among the propolis components, apigenin and apigenin-like flavonoids have potent protective effects against NO production and the mislocalization of CLDN1 induced by UVB. The analyses between structures and biological function revealed that the chemically and structurally characteristic flavonoids with a hydroxyl group at the 4′ position on the B-ring might contribute to its protective effect on barrier dysfunction caused by weak UVB irradiation. In conclusion, EBGP and its component apigenin protect HaCaT cells from weak UVB irradiation-induced TJ barrier dysfunction mediated by suppressing NO production.

Salicinoyl Quinic Acids and Their Prostaglandin E2 Production Inhibitory Activities from the Fruits of Casearia grewiifolia

Phytochemical investigation on the dried fruits of Casearia grewiifolia led to the identification of 10 new salicinoyl quinic acid derivatives (1-10), a new benzoyl quinic acid (11), and two known compounds (12 and 13). The structures of the new compounds were elucidated by interpreting 1D and 2D NMR spectroscopic data including HMBC and EXSIDE along with a chemical method for sugar unit analysis. All isolates were evaluated for their inhibitory activities against prostaglandin E₂ (PGE₂) production in ultraviolet B (UVB)-irradiated HaCat keratinocytes. Of the isolates tested, compounds 6 and 12 were found to inhibit PGE₂ production with IC₅₀ values of 20.5 and 28.8 μM, respectively.

Chemical Composition and Protective Effect of Young Barley (Hordeum vulgare L.) Dietary Supplements Extracts on UV-Treated Human Skin Fibroblasts in In Vitro Studies

Young barley seems to be a promising material for use as nutricosmetic due to the presence of many biologically active compounds. The aim of this study was to evaluate the effect of Hordeum vulgare L. extracts on human skin fibroblasts exposed to ultraviolet radiation B (UVB) radiation. Analysis of the chemical composition showed a predominance of 9,12,15-octadecatrienoic acid. The quality assessment showed that young barley preparations have high total polyphenolic content (TPC) and favourable total antioxidant status (TAS). They also contain antioxidant elements such as zinc, copper, and selenium. Furthermore, the analyzed products were found to be safe in terms of toxic elements (lead, cadmium and mercury) and lack of cytotoxic effect of young barley extracts on cells. In vitro bioactivity assays showed that young barley extract increased the survival rate and accelerated the migration of fibroblasts in research models with UVB radiation. The application of both extracts caused an increase in DNA biosynthesis, and in the number of cells arrested in S phase. Moreover, an inhibitory effect of the tested extracts on the expression of matrix metalloproteinase 2 (MMP-2) and matrix metalloproteinase 9 (MMP-9) was observed. The results indicate that young barley extracts, due to protective as well as restorative effect, could potentially be used in the production of nutricosmetics and skin care products.

Natural Ingredients Common in the Trás-os-Montes Region (Portugal) for Use in the Cosmetic Industry: A Review about Chemical Composition and Antigenotoxic Properties

The natural cosmetics market has grown since consumers became aware of the concept of natural-based ingredients. A significant number of cosmetics have an ecological impact on the environment and carry noxious and chemically potent substances. Thus, the use of natural and organic cosmetics becomes increasingly important since it is clear that topical treatment with cosmeceuticals can help improve skin rejuvenation. A substantial investigation into the benefits that fruits and plants can bring to health is required. Studies have shown that antigenotoxic properties are linked to anti-aging properties. Several studies have shown potential antigenotoxicity in natural ingredients such as Almonds (Prunus dulcis), Elderberry (Sambucus nigra), Olives (Olea europaea), and Grapes (Vitis vinifera). This review presents an overview of research conducted on these natural ingredients, the most common in the Northeast of Portugal. This region of Portugal possesses the most organic farmers, and ingredients are easily obtained. The Northeast of Portugal also has climatic, topographic, and pedological differences that contribute to agricultural diversity.

Biosynthesis and Heterologous Production of Mycosporine-Like Amino Acid Palythines

Mycosporine-like amino acids (MAAs) are a family of natural products that are produced by a variety of organisms for protection from ultraviolet damage. In this work, we combined different bioinformatic approaches to assess the distribution of the MAA biosynthesis and identified a putative gene cluster from Nostoc linckia NIES-25 that encodes a short-chain dehydrogenase/reductase and a nonheme iron(II)- and 2-oxoglutarate-dependent oxygenase (MysH) as potential new biosynthetic enzymes. Heterologous expression of refactored gene clusters in E. coli produced two known biosynthetic intermediates, 4-deoxygadusol and mycosporine-glycine, and three disubstituted MAA analogues, porphyra-334, shinorine, and mycosporine-glycine-alanine. Importantly, the disubstituted MAAs were converted into palythines by MysH. Furthermore, biochemical characterization revealed the substrate preference of recombinant MysD, a d-Ala-d-Ala ligase-like enzyme for the formation of disubstituted MAAs. Our study advances the biosynthetic understanding of an important family of natural UV photoprotectants and opens new opportunities to the development of next-generation sunscreens.

Phytochemical Study and In Vitro Screening Focusing on the Anti-Aging Features of Various Plants of the Greek Flora

Skin health is heavily affected by ultraviolet irradiation from the sun. In addition, senile skin is characterized by major changes in the collagen, elastin and in the hyaluronan content. Natural products (NPs) have been shown to delay cellular senescence or in vivo aging by regulating age-related signaling pathways. Moreover, NPs are a preferable source of photoprotective agents and have been proven to be useful against the undesirable skin hyperpigmentation. Greek flora harvests great plant diversity with approximately 6000 plant species, as it has a wealth of NPs. Here, we report an extensive screening among hundreds of plant species. More than 440 plant species and subspecies were selected and evaluated. The extracts were screened for their antioxidant and anti-melanogenic properties, while the most promising were further subjected to various in vitro and cell-based assays related to skin aging. In parallel, their chemical profile was analyzed with High-Performance Thin-Layer Chromatography (HPTLC) and/or Ultra-Performance Liquid Chromatography High-Resolution Mass Spectrometry (UPLC-HRMS). A variety of extracts were identified that can be of great value for the cosmetic industry, since they combine antioxidant, photoprotective, anti-melanogenic and anti-aging properties. In particular, the methanolic extracts of Sideritis scardica and Rosa damascena could be worthy of further attention, since they showed interesting chemical profiles and promising properties against specific targets involved in skin aging.

Determination of Phenolic Content, Antioxidant Activity, and Tyrosinase Inhibitory Effects of Functional Cosmetic Creams Available on the Thailand Market

Recently, the global trend toward the use of natural extracts and antioxidant agents in the cosmetic cream industry to produce whitening effects has been increasing. This has also been a persistent trend in Thailand. In this study, samples of commercial cosmetic creams on the Thai market were assessed for a functional evaluation of their antioxidant activity, tyrosinase inhibitory effects, and phenolic contents. Samples were extracted using hot water and sonication extraction method to obtain the functional cream extracts. Total phenolic contents in all samples were within the range of 0.46-47.92 mg GAE/30 g cream. Antioxidant activities of the cream extracts were within the range of 3.61-43.98 mg Trolox equivalent/30 g cream, while tyrosinase inhibition activities were within the range of 2.58-97.94% of inhibition. With regard to the relationship between the total phenolic content and the antioxidant activity of the cosmetic creams, Pearson's correlation coefficient revealed a moderately positive relationship with an r value of 0.6108. Furthermore, the relationship between the antioxidant activity and the tyrosinase inhibitory activity of the cosmetic creams was highly positive with an r value of 0.7238. Overall, this study demonstrated that the total phenolic contents in the functional cosmetic creams could play a role in antioxidant activity and anti-tyrosinase activities. The findings indicate how the whitening and antioxidant effects of cosmetic creams could be maintained after the products have been formulated, as this concern can affect the consumer's decision when purchasing cosmetic products.

Trend Analysis of Cutaneous Squamous Cell Carcinoma of the External Lip From 1975 to 2016

Importance

Cutaneous squamous cell carcinoma (cSCC) is the second most common nonmelanoma skin cancer and commonly affects the head and neck. Increasing regional reports of aggressive cases warrant an analysis of population-based trends of cSCC of the head and neck.

Objective

To assess demographic, clinical, and survival trends among patients with cSCC of the external lip.

Design, Setting, and Participants

This was a retrospective, population-based cohort study of 15 171 cases of cSCC of the external lip registered in the Surveillance, Epidemiology, and End Results (SEER) database between 1975 and 2016. Statistical analyses were conducted in October 2020.

Main Outcomes and Measures

The primary outcome was clinical characteristics (tumor site, stage, and tumor grade). Demographic characteristics, incidence, treatment characteristics, and survival outcomes were also assessed.

Results

In total, 15 171 cases of cSCC were extracted from the SEER database (80.3% of patients were male, and 97.0% identified as being of White race/ethnicity). Incidence among male patients decreased from 4.4 to 0.8 per 100 000 during the study period, whereas the female patients' share cases increased from 8.4% in 1975 to 1979 to 26.1% by 2016. Cases increased in the US Pacific Coast and eastern regions, and along the 30° to 39° N latitudinal range, while decreasing in the southwestern region. Of 15 171 cases, 51.2% cases presented at stage I, and 96.2% were nonmetastatic. Cases of grade II and grade III tumors increased between 1975 and 2016. Five-year disease-specific survival remained stable at 95.9%; however, patients older than 75 years experienced worse disease-specific survival (93.2%) associated with decreasing survival trends among patients older than 85 years.

Conclusion and Relevance

This population-based cohort study found that incidence of cSCC of the external lip decreased among men; however, cases increased along US coastal regions and in more northern US latitudes. Tumor grades were increasingly advanced, and patients older than 85 years should be given special prognosis and treatment consideration.

Formulation of Insect Chitosan Stabilized Silver Nanoparticles with Propolis Extract as Potent Antimicrobial and Wound Healing Composites

Skin wounds are frequently influenced with microbial infections and inflammation, which need innovative agents for disputing them. Chitosan (Csn) was extracted from larvae of BSF “black soldier fly, Hermetia illucens” and ethanolic propolis extract (Pro) was employed for synthesizing silver nanoparticles (Ag-NPs), using facile biogenic protocol. The BSF-Csn was acquired with a yield of 1.56%, 91.3% deacetylation degree, and 88.600 Dalton molecular weight. The Ag-NPs were effectually biosynthesized using Pro, with a mean diameter of 8.73 nm and zeta potential of -21.34 mV. The antimicrobial activities assessment of insect Csn, Pro, synthesized Ag-NPs with Pro, and their composite against skin pathogens (Staphylococcus aureus and Candida albicans) revealed the elevated efficiency of the individual agents and the superior action of their composite (Csn/Pro/Ag-NPs), with 26.3 and 23.4 mm inhibition zones and inhibitory concentrations of 35.0 and 45.0 μg/mL from the composite toward S. aureus and C. albicans, respectively, which exceeded the actions of commercial antibiotics. The treatment of rat’s wounds with this composite promisingly led to faster healing of wounds and absence of inflammation and infection signs. The powerful actions of Csn/Pro/Ag-NPs as antimicrobial and wound healing composite strongly advocate their applications for skin protection, disinfection, and regeneration.

In Vitro Evaluation of the Photoprotective Potential of Quinolinic Alkaloids Isolated from the Antarctic Marine Fungus Penicillium echinulatum for Topical Use

Marine-derived fungi proved to be a rich source of biologically active compounds. The genus Penicillium has been extensively studied regarding their secondary metabolites and biological applications. However, the photoprotective effects of these metabolites remain underexplored. Herein, the photoprotective potential of Penicillium echinulatum, an Antarctic alga-associated fungus, was assessed by UV absorption, photostability study, and protection from UVA-induced ROS generation assay on human immortalized keratinocytes (HaCaT) and reconstructed human skin (RHS). The photosafety was evaluated by the photoreactivity (OECD TG 495) and phototoxicity assays, performed by 3T3 neutral red uptake (3T3 NRU PT, OECD TG 432) and by the RHS model. Through a bio-guided purification approach, four known alkaloids, (-)-cyclopenin (1), dehydrocyclopeptine (2), viridicatin (3), and viridicatol (4), were isolated. Compounds 3 and 4 presented absorption in UVB and UVA-II regions and were considered photostable after UVA irradiation. Despite compounds 3 and 4 showed phototoxic potential in 3T3 NRU PT, no phototoxicity was observed in the RHS model (reduction of cell viability < 30%), which indicates their very low acute photoirritation and high photosafety potential in humans. Viridicatin was considered weakly photoreactive, while viridicatol showed no photoreactivity; both compounds inhibited UVA-induced ROS generation in HaCaT cells, although viridicatol was not able to protect the RHS model against UVA-induced ROS production. Thus, the results highlighted the photoprotective and antioxidant potential of metabolites produced by P. echinulatum which can be considered a new class of molecules for photoprotection, since their photosafety and non-cytotoxicity were predicted using recommended in vitro methods for topical use.

A resveratrol-loaded nanostructured lipid carrier hydrogel to enhance the anti-UV irradiation and anti-oxidant efficacy

Exposure to ultraviolet (UV) irradiation leads to the generation of reactive oxygen species (ROS) and DNA damage in skin tissue, which can further result in skin cancers. Using sunscreens is one of the most popular and the most effective method to resist UV irradiation. Resveratrol (RES) shows high absorbance in UV region and significant anti-oxidant effects. However, RES is easily degraded by UV irradiation, resulting in the decrease of bioactivity and the limitation of its application in the pharmaceutical preparations of skin. In this paper, a nanostructured lipid carrier gel loaded with RES (RES-NLC-gel) was prepared to improve the stability of RES and the accumulation of RES in the epidermis. Moreover, RES-NLC-gel could scavenge free radical effectively and protect human keratinocyte from UV irradiation by inhibiting the generation of ROS, decreasing the protein expression of cleaved caspase-3 and Bax and increasing the protein expression of Bcl-2. When mice skin was pretreated with RES-NLC-gel, there were less erythema, wrinkles and scabs on mice skin. The epidermal thickness of mice skins obviously reduced in dose-dependent manner. The activities of catalase (CAT), glutathione peroxidase (GPx) and superoxide dismutase (SOD) in mice skin tissue significantly increased. Thus, RES-NLC-gel exhibited an obvious anti-UV irradiation and anti-oxidant activity in vivo. RES-NLC-gel displayed great application potential in protecting skin from UV irradiation.

Challenging Cosmetic Innovation: The Skin Microbiota and Probiotics Protect the Skin from UV-Induced Damage

Many studies performed in the last decade have focused on the cutaneous microbiota. It has been shown that this microbiota plays a key role in skin homeostasis. Considered as “a second barrier” to the environment, it is very important to know how it reacts to exogenous aggressions. The cosmetics industry has a started to use this microbiota as a source of natural ingredients, particularly ones that confer photoprotection against ultraviolet (UV) rays. Interestingly, it has been demonstrated that bacterial molecules can block UV rays or reverse their harmful effects. Oral probiotics containing living microorganisms have also shown promising results in restoring skin homeostasis and reversing the negative effects of UV rays. Microbial-based active sunscreen compounds have huge potential for use as next-generation photoprotection products.

Zn(ferulate)-LSH Systems as Multifunctional Filters

Excessive UV solar radiation exposure causes human health risks; therefore, the study of multifunctional filters is important to skin UV protective ability and also to other beneficial activities to the human organism, such as reduction of reactive oxygen species (ROS) responsible for cellular damages. Potential multifunctional filters were obtained by intercalating of ferulate anions into layered simple metal hydroxides (LSH) through anion exchange and precipitation at constant pH methods. Ultrasound treatment was used in order to investigate the structural changes in LSH-ferulate materials. Structural and spectroscopic analyses show the formation of layered materials composed by a mixture of LSH intercalated with ferulate anions, where carboxylate groups of ferulate species interact with LSH layers. UV-VIS absorption spectra and in vitro SPF measurements indicate that LSH-ferulate systems have UV shielding capacity, mainly UVB protection. The results of reactive species assays show the ability of layered compounds in capture DPPH^•, ABTS^•+, ROO^•, and HOCl/OCl⁻ reactive species. LSH-ferulate materials exhibit antioxidant activity and singular optical properties that enable their use as multifunctional filters.

Visible light. Part II: Photoprotection against visible and ultraviolet light

Cutaneous photobiology studies have focused primarily on the ultraviolet portion of the solar spectrum. Visible light (VL), which comprises 50% of the electromagnetic radiation that reaches the Earth's surface and, as discussed in Part I of this CME, has cutaneous biologic effects, such as pigment darkening and erythema. Photoprotection against VL includes avoiding the sun, seeking shade, and using photoprotective clothing. The organic and inorganic ultraviolet filters used in sunscreens do not protect against VL, only tinted sunscreens do. In the United States, these filters are regulated by the Food and Drug Administration as an over-the-counter drug and are subject to more stringent regulations than in Europe, Asia, and Australia. There are no established guidelines regarding VL photoprotection. Alternative measures to confer VL photoprotection are being explored. These novel methods include topical, oral, and subcutaneous agents. Further development should focus on better protection in the ultraviolet A1 (340-400 nm) and VL ranges while enhancing the cosmesis of the final products.

Simple, green, ultrasound-assisted preparation of novel core-shell microcapsules from octyl methoxycinnamate and oligomeric proanthocyanidins for UV-stable sunscreen

Without sunscreens, UV rays in sunlight cause skin damage, ranging from dark spots and premature aging to skin cancer. Present sunscreens, however, are readily photodegraded, producing highly reactive radicals that can damage cells. To address this problem, we have now used ultrasound to prepare core-shell microcapsules, which offer improved protection against UV light and improved UV stability. The composite microcapsules have oligomeric proanthocyanidins (OPCs), which are amphiphilic plant-derived secondary metabolites, as the shell and octyl methoxycinnamate (OMC), which is a UVB absorber, as the core. The polyphenolic flavonoid structure of OPCs improves the UV stability of OMC and thus avoids the skin damage caused by OMC photodegradation products. In the microcapsules, π-π stacking interactions between OPCs and OMC molecules enhance the ability of OMC to absorb UV radiation and extend the absorption range from the UVB region (280-320 nm) to include the UVA and UVC regions (200-400 nm). The composite microcapsules were shown to be stable on storage and to be non-irritant to human skin. The ultrasound-assisted preparation of OMC/OPCs composite microcapsules is simple, efficient and green and provides a feasible strategy for the development of novel, more effective, sunscreens.

Anti-photoaging activities of Sorbaria kirilowii ethanol extract in UVB-damaged cells

Sorbaria kirilowii (Regel) Maxim, a plant found in China, Korea, Japan, and east of Europe, is a common herb used for traditional medicinal purposes. However, its ability to prevent photoaging has not been studied. In this study, we investigated the anti-photoaging functions of an ethanol extract (Sk-EE) of S. kirilowii (Regel) Maxim using human keratinocytes exposed to UVB. First, we analyzed the cytotoxicity of Sk-EE. Then, we determine the expression of genes related to inflammation, collagen degradation, and moisture retention. We also explored the anti-photoaging mechanism of Sk-EE by determining correlated signaling pathways and target molecules using reporter gene assays and immunoblotting analyses. Sk-EE treatment of cells increased hyaluronic acid synthase (HAS), filaggrin (FLG), and collagen type I alpha 1 (COL1A1) expression. Sk-EE dose-dependently inhibited the UVB-induced expression of matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs) 1, 2, 9 and cyclooxygenase (COX)-2 by blocking the activator protein (AP)-1 signaling pathway, in particular the phosphorylation of c-Jun N-terminal kinase (JNK), p38, and extracellular response kinase (ERK). In addition, c-Fos and c-Jun were targeted by Sk-EE. Our results indicate that Sk-EE has anti-inflammatory and skin-protective properties, and could be a candidate to treat signs of photoaging.

Cyanobacteria and Red Macroalgae as Potential Sources of Antioxidants and UV Radiation-Absorbing Compounds for Cosmeceutical Applications

In recent years, research on natural products has gained considerable attention, particularly in the cosmetic industry, which is looking for new bio-active and biodegradable molecules. In this study, cosmetic properties of cyanobacteria and red macroalgae were analyzed. The extractions were conducted in different solvents (water, ethanol and two combinations of water:ethanol). The main molecules with antioxidant and photoprotective capacity were mycosporine-like amino acids (MAAs), scytonemin and phenolic compounds. The highest contents of scytonemin (only present in cyanobacteria) were observed in Scytonema sp. (BEA 1603B) and Lyngbya sp. (BEA 1328B). The highest concentrations of MAAs were found in the red macroalgae Porphyra umbilicalis, Gelidium corneum and Osmundea pinnatifida and in the cyanobacterium Lyngbya sp. Scytonema sp. was the unique species that presented an MAA with maximum absorption in the UV-B band, being identified as mycosporine-glutaminol for the first time in this species. The highest content of polyphenols was observed in Scytonema sp. and P. umbilicalis. Water was the best extraction solvent for MAAs and phenols, whereas scytonemin was better extracted in a less polar solvent such as ethanol:_dH₂O (4:1). Cyanobacterium extracts presented higher antioxidant activity than those of red macroalgae. Positive correlations of antioxidant activity with different molecules, especially polyphenols, biliproteins and MAAs, were observed. Hydroethanolic extracts of some species incorporated in creams showed an increase in the photoprotection capacity in comparison with the base cream. Extracts of these organisms could be used as natural photoprotectors improving the diversity of sunscreens. The combination of different extracts enriched in scytonemin and MAAs could be useful to design broad-band natural UV-screen cosmeceutical products.

Historical and modern research on propolis and its application in wound healing and other fields of medicine and contributions by Polish studies

ETHNOPHARMACOLOGICAL RELEVANCE

The history of medical application of propolis (also known as bee glue) dates back to the times of ancient Greeks, Romans, Persians and Egyptians. Honey and other bee products, including propolis, occupy an important place in Polish folk medicine. Scientific research on propolis in Poland began in the early 1960s in Zabrze and continues until now.

AIM OF THE REVIEW

The aim of this review is to provide an overview of information on Polish research on propolis and its medical application with particular emphasis on studies concerning wound healing. Consequently, our goal is also to shed a new light on therapeutic potential of Polish propolis in order to support future research in the field.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

A systematic review of scientific literature on propolis and its medical application was performed by using the literature databases (PubMed, Web of Science, Google Scholar). We paid special attention to papers describing the effect of propolis on skin wound healing as well as to Polish contribution to research on propolis.

RESULTS

Professor Stan Scheller was the first Polish scientist dealing with propolis and its medical potential. His legacy was continued by several research teams that studied the topic in various aspects. They analyzed propolis composition, its antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, antiapoptotic and anticancer properties as well as its application in dentistry and wound treatment. Burn wound healing physiology after propolis administration was thoroughly studied on pig model, whereas research on patients proved the efficacy of propolis in chronic venous leg ulcer treatment.

CONCLUSION

Polish scientists have made a significant contribution to the research on propolis, its biological properties and influence on wound healing. Propolis ointments can effectively accelerate the healing process and improve healing physiology, so they can be recommended as a promising topical medication for wound treatment in the future clinical and preclinical trials.

Integrating DNA damage response and autophagy signalling axis in ultraviolet-B induced skin photo-damage: a positive association in protecting cells against genotoxic stress

The skin acts as both physical as well as an immunological barrier against hazardous agents from the outside environment and protects the internal organs against damage. Skin ageing is a dynamic process caused by the influence of various external factors, including damage from ultraviolet (UV-B) radiation, which is known as photo-ageing, and due to internal chronological mechanisms. A normal ageing process requires several orchestrated defense mechanisms to diverse types of stress responses, the concomitant renewal of cellular characteristics, and the homeostasis of different cell types that directly or indirectly protect the integrity of skin. Cumulative oxidative and endoplasmic reticulum (ER) stress responses and their adverse impact on biological systems in the skin are a common mechanism of the ageing process, negatively impacting DNA by causing mutations that lead to many physiological, functional, and aesthetic changes in the skin, culminating in the development of many diseases, including photo-damage and photo-carcinogenesis. Exposure of the skin to ultraviolet-(B) elicits the activation of signal transduction pathways, including DNA damage response, autophagy, and checkpoint signal adaptations associated with clearing radiation-induced DNA damage. Recent experimental reports suggest that autophagy is involved in maintaining skin homeostasis upon encountering different stresses, notably genotoxic stress. It has also been revealed that autophagy positively regulates the recognition of DNA damage by nucleotide excision repair and that skin ageing is associated with defects in the autophagy process. Moreover, autophagy is constitutively active in the skin epithelium, imparting protection to skin cells against a diverse range of outside insults, thus increasing resistance to environmental stressors. It has also been found that the stress-induced suppression of the autophagy response in experimental settings leads to enhanced apoptosis during photo-ageing upon UV-B exposure and that the maintenance of homeostasis depends on cellular autophagy levels. More recent reports in this domain claim that relieving the oxidative-stress-mediated induction of the ER stress response upon UV-B irradiation protects skin cells from photo-damage effects. The integration of autophagy and the DNA damage response under genotoxic stress is being considered as a meaningful partnership for finding novel molecular targets and devising suitable therapeutic strategies against photo-ageing disorders. Here, we summarize and review the current understanding of the mechanisms governing the intricate interplay between autophagy and the DNA damage response and its regulation by UV-B, the roles of autophagy in regulating the cellular response to UV-B-induced photodamage, and the implications of the modulation of autophagy as a meaningful partnership in the treatment and prevention of photoaging disorders.

Exploring the Photochemistry of an Ethyl Sinapate Dimer: An Attempt Toward a Better Ultraviolet Filter

The photochemistry and photostability of a potential ultraviolet (UV) radiation filter, dehydrodiethylsinapate, with a broad absorption in the UVA region, is explored utilizing a combination of femtosecond time-resolved spectroscopy and steady-state irradiation studies. The time-resolved measurements show that this UV filter candidate undergoes excited state relaxation after UV absorption on a timescale of ~10 picoseconds, suggesting efficient relaxation. However, steady-state irradiation measurements show degradation under prolonged UV exposure. From a photochemical standpoint, this highlights the importance of considering both the ultrafast and “ultraslow” timescales when designing new potential UV filters.

Unravelling the Photoprotective Mechanisms of Nature-Inspired Ultraviolet Filters Using Ultrafast Spectroscopy

There are several drawbacks with the current commercially available ultraviolet (UV) filters used in sunscreen formulations, namely deleterious human and ecotoxic effects. As a result of the drawbacks, a current research interest is in identifying and designing new UV filters. One approach that has been explored in recent years is to use nature as inspiration, which is the focus of this review. Both plants and microorganisms have adapted to synthesize their own photoprotective molecules to guard their DNA from potentially harmful UV radiation. The relaxation mechanism of a molecule after it has been photoexcited can be unravelled by several techniques, the ones of most interest for this review being ultrafast spectroscopy and computational methods. Within the literature, both techniques have been implemented on plant-, and microbial-inspired UV filters to better understand their photoprotective roles in nature. This review aims to explore these findings for both families of nature-inspired UV filters in the hope of guiding the future design of sunscreens.

Lycium barbarum polysaccharide fraction associated with photobiomodulation protects from epithelium thickness and collagen fragmentation in a model of cutaneous photodamage

Ultraviolet radiation (UVR) is the major etiologic agent of cutaneous photoaging, and different strategies are used to prevent and treat this condition. The polysaccharide fraction (LBPF) isolated from Lycium Barbarum fruits (goji berry) contains several active ingredients with antioxidant, immune system modulation, and antitumor effects. In addition, the photobiomodulation (PBM) is widely applied in photoaging treatment. This study investigated the effects of LBPF and PBM against the UVR-induced photodamage in the skin of hairless mice. The mice were photoaged for 6 weeks in a chronic and cumulative exposure regimen using a 300-W incandescent lamp that simulates the UVR effects. From the third to the sixth week of photoaging induction, the animals received topical applications of LBPF and PBM, singly or combined, in different orders (first LBPF and then PBM and inversely), three times per week after each session of photoaging. After completion of experiments, the dorsal region skin was collected for the analysis of thickness, collagen content, and metalloproteinases (MMP) levels. A photoprotective potential against the increase of the epithelium thickness and the fragmentation of the collagen fibers was achieved in the skin of mice treated with LBPF or PBM singly, as well as their combination. All treatments maintained the skin collagen composition, except when PBM was applied after the LBPF. However, no treatment protected against the UVR-induced MMP increase. Taken together, we have shown that the LBPF and PBM promote a photoprotective effect in hairless mice skin against epidermal thickening and low collagen density. Both strategies, singly and combined, can be used to reduce the UVR-induced cutaneous photoaging.

Pinterest Homemade Sunscreens: A Recipe for Sunburn

Social media, specifically Pinterest with more than 175 million users, has changed the way people seek and share health information. Recent consumer interest in natural products has led to an increase of shared recipes for homemade products including sunscreen. Homemade sunscreen products are risky because they are not regulated or tested for efficacy like commercial sunscreens. With rising skin cancer rates, the use of effective broadband sunscreen is critical to reduce incidence of skin cancer. This study used directed content analysis to examine how homemade sunscreens were portrayed on Pinterest. Using the search terms, homemade sunscreen and natural sunscreen, researchers sampled every fifth pin to collect 189 relevant pins. A codebook was developed, pilot tested, and used to code pins. Two researchers coded pins and interrater reliability was established at 90%. Of the 189 pins, the majority of pins (95.2%) positively portrayed the effectiveness of homemade sunscreens and 68.3% recommended recipes for homemade sunscreens that offered insufficient UV radiation protection. Sun Protection Factor (SPF) claims were made in 33.3% of pins with a range of SPF 2 to SPF 50. In this sample of pins, 41.8% of pins had been saved by other users ranging from one to more than 21,000 times. Social media is a powerful source of health information. However, this study revealed widespread interest and acceptance of insufficient sun protection information. Pinterest and the interest in homemade recipes for sunscreen present an opportunity for public health professionals to proactively engage on social media. Abbreviations: US: United States; SPF: sun protection factor; USFDA: United states food and drug administration; UV: ultraviolet.

Synthesis and Biological Evaluation of the Anti-Melanogenesis Effect of Coumaric and Caffeic Acid-Conjugated Peptides in Human Melanocytes

Excessive pigmentation and reduced elasticity are the major skin problems that dermatologists and cosmetologists address. Compounds that inhibit melanin production might contribute to improving skin problems. In this study, we investigated whether coumaric acid- and caffeic acid-conjugated peptides might affect alpha-melanocyte stimulating hormone-induced melanin production, tyrosinase activity, and melanin synthesis-related gene expression in SK-MEL-2 human melanoma cells. Coumaric acid and caffeic acid showed no significant cytotoxicity, and they inhibited melanin production. In addition, coumaric acid- and caffeic acid-conjugated peptides suppressed tyrosinase activity more than arbutin, a known tyrosinase inhibitor. Quantitative real-time PCR (qRT-PCR) results also showed that both peptides inhibited the expression of melanin synthesis-related genes, TYR, TYRP1, TYRP2, and MITF. In particular, among the nine conjugated peptides tested, caffeic acid linked to a Gly-Gly-Gly linker and conjugated to the tripeptide, ARP, showed the greatest inhibition of gene expression in the qRT-PCR analysis. These results suggested that the inhibition of melanin exerted by coumaric acid- and caffeic acid-conjugated peptides might provide important information for the development of pigmentation-related skin diseases and cosmetic products.

Protective Effects of Salicornia europaea on UVB-Induced Misoriented Cell Divisions in Skin Epithelium

Correct orientation of cell division is extremely important in the maintenance, regeneration, and repair of continuously proliferating tissues, such as the epidermis. Regulation of the axis of division of epidermal cells prevents the apoptosis-induced compensatory proliferation, and eventually the cancer. Thus, the orientation of cell division is critical for maintaining the tissue architecture. In this study, we investigated the effects of S. europaea extract on the texture of human skin and the behavior of these cells during skin morphogenesis. In sun-exposed skin, S. europaea improved the texture. A multilayered, highly differentiated in vitro skin model indicated that, S. europaea extract suppressed the UVB-induced changes in the morphology of basal keratinocytes. Orientation of cell division was determined by measuring the axis of mitosis in the vertical sections of our experimental model. Analyses of the digital images revealed that S. europaea preserved the axis of division of basal keratinocytes from UVB-induced perturbations. Our findings uncover a new mechanism by which S. europaea responds to the spindle misorientation induced by UVB.

Milk thistle and olive extract: old substances with a new mission against sun-induced skin damage

BACKGROUND

Natural antioxidants represent an effective option in the prevention and/or improvement of ultraviolet radiations (UVR)-induced/aggravated skin conditions. UVR cause DNA damage in keratinocytes, directly, in the form of cyclobutane pyrimidine dimers (CPDs), or indirectly, through oxidative stress production. Failure of the repair system can result in genetic mutations primarily responsible for the initiation of NMSCs. The aim of our study was to evaluate the in vitro protective effect of milk thistle and olive purified extracts on cultured keratinocytes after solar simulator irradiations (SSR).

METHODS

Immortalized keratinocytes were pre-incubated with different concentrations of milk thistle and olive purified extracts, and irradiated with increasing doses of SSR. Thereafter, CPDs and p53 expression were evaluated to assess DNA damage, whereas cellular antioxidants consumption and lipid membranes peroxidation were measured to analyze oxidative stress.

RESULTS

The study substances were well tolerated by cells and displayed good cytoprotective and antioxidant activities, being milk thistle dry extract more effective in limiting the direct DNA damage, and olive extract particularly able to reduce lipid membrane peroxidation and to increase cellular antioxidants.

CONCLUSIONS

Both study substances can be defined as safe compounds, showing differential cytoprotective and antioxidant activities and might represent interesting options for NMSCs chemoprevention.

Hydration and Barrier Potential of Cosmetic Matrices with Bee Products

Honey, honey extracts, and bee products belong to traditionally used bioactive molecules in many areas. The aim of the study was primarily to evaluate the effect of cosmetic matrices containing honey and bee products on the skin. The study is complemented by a questionnaire survey on the knowledge and awareness of the effects and potential uses of bee products. The effect of bee molecules at various concentrations was observed by applying 12 formulations to the skin of the volar side of the forearm by non-invasive bioengineering methods on a set of 24 volunteers for 48 h. Very good moisturizing properties have been found in matrices with the glycerin extract of honey. Matrices containing forest honey had better moisturizing effects than those containing flower honey. Barrier properties were enhanced by gradual absorption, especially in formulations with both glycerin and aqueous honey extract. The observed organoleptic properties of the matrices assessed by sensory analysis through 12 evaluators did not show statistically significant differences except for color and spreadability. There are differences in the ability to hydrate the skin, reduce the loss of epidermal water, and affect the pH of the skin surface, including the organoleptic properties between honey and bee product matrices according to their type and concentration.

UVA Induced Oxidative Stress Was Inhibited by Paeoniflorin/Nrf2 Signaling or PLIN2

Photodamages caused by UVA radiation induced oxidative injuries are closely related to photoaging and skin cancer. Paeoniflorin (PF), extracted from the root of Paeonia lactiflora, has been reported to be an effective antioxidant. PLIN2, known as adipose differentiation-related protein, has been previously involved in the regulation of oxidative stress. In this study, we were sought to investigate the photo-protective property of PF and PLIN2 in UVA-radiated human dermal fibroblasts (HDFs). HDFs were pre-treated with PF (800 μM) followed by UVA radiation (22.5 J/cm2). MTS activity, cell apoptosis, ROS, MDA, and SOD were detected, respectively. The expressions of Nrf2, HO-1, NQ-O1, and PLIN2 were determined using RT-qPCR or western blot. Nrf2 was silenced by siRNA, and PLIN2 was overexpressed via lentiviral transduction. Comparing to the UVA radiation, PF pre-treatment could prominently increase the MTS activity, decrease cell apoptosis, reduce the generations of ROS and MDA, increase the activity of SOD and increase the expression of Nrf2 and its target genes HO-1 and NQ-O1. When Nrf2 was knocked down, PF lost above protective properties. In addition, UVA induced oxidative stress led to upregulation of PLIN2 and the latter could be decreased by PF. Overexpression of PLIN2 improved MTS activity and reduced MDA level in HDFs. The combination of PLIN2 overexpression and PF pre-treatment corporately inhibited UVA-induced injury. Besides, we also found that PF and PLIN2 had a compensatory protection against UVA induced oxidative stress. In conclusion, our study demonstrated that UVA induced photodamages could be inhibited by PF via Nrf2/HO-1/NQ-O1 signaling pathway or by PLIN2, and the combination of PLIN2 overexpression and PF played additive effects against UVA-related oxidative stress.

Is the Botryococcus braunii Dry Biomass an Adjuvant for Anti-UVB Topical Formulations?

Several topical products have been developed to avoid the harmful effects from ultraviolet (UV) radiation, such as sunscreens. Research for actives from natural sources is increasing due to the fact that chemical filters could induce adverse events. The microalgae Botryococcus braunii has potential interest in cosmetic applications. Specialized literature reported that B. braunii aqueous extract induced a reduction in skin dehydration and collagen production and promoted antioxidant activity. This research aimed to produce B. braunii biomass and to investigate its contribution regarding photoprotection. Formulations containing B. braunii dry biomass, with or without UV filters into vehicles composed of an emulsifying polymer or a self-emulsifying base, were evaluated in vitro by means of photoprotective activity and photostability. B. braunii dry biomass did not provide adequate photoprotection efficacy; however, it was observed that the self-emulsifying base promoted better sun protection factor (SPF) in comparison with the emulsifying polymer.

Bee Products in Dermatology and Skin Care

Honey, propolis, bee pollen, bee bread, royal jelly, beeswax and bee venom are natural products which have been used in medicine since ancient times. Nowadays, studies indicate that natural bee products can be used for skin treatment and care. Biological properties of these products are related to flavonoids they contain like: chrysin, apigenin, kaempferol, quercetin, galangin, pinocembrin or naringenin. Several pharmacological activities of phenolic acids and flavonoids, and also 10-hydroxy-trans-2-decenoic acid, which is present in royal jelly, have been reported. Royal jelly has multitude of pharmacological activities: antibiotic, antiinflammatory, antiallergenic, tonic and antiaging. Honey, propolis and pollen are used to heal burn wounds, and they possess numerous functional properties such as: antibacterial, anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, disinfectant, antifungal and antiviral. Beeswax is used for production of cosmetics and ointments in pharmacy. Due to a large number of biological activities, bee products could be considered as important ingredients in medicines and cosmetics applied to skin.

The anti-inflammatory and anti-apoptotic effects of advanced anti-inflammation composition (AAIC) in heat shock-induced human HaCaT keratinocytes

BACKGROUND

The development of natural cosmetic materials without side effects to protect skin from heat shock is necessary. We recently reported that advanced cooling composition (ACC) has anti-inflammatory effect in RAW 264.7 cells stimulated with lipopolysaccharide (LPS) and strong anti-microbial effect against Pseudomonas aeruginosa, Staphylococcus aureus, MRSA (Methicillin-resistant Staphylococcus aureus), Candida albicans, and Streptococcus mutans.

AIMS

To further investigate whether advanced anti-inflammation composition (AAIC), newly developed from existing ACC has beneficial effects in heat shock-induced immortalized human keratinocytes (HaCaT cells), HaCaT cells were pretreated with AAIC before heat shock treatment.

METHODS

Cell viability for heat shock treatment and different concentrations of AAIC in HaCaT cells were assessed by MTT assay. Anti-oxidative activity of AAIC was measured using the DPPH assay. The protein expression in heat shock-induced HaCaT cells treated with AAIC was evaluated by immunofluorescence staining and western blot analysis.

RESULTS

AAIC, which is effective at 100 µg/mL concentration, was nontoxic in HaCaT cells and had an anti-oxidative effect demonstrated by scavenging DPPH free radicals. AAIC treatment significantly attenuated the aberrant levels of pro-inflammatory and pro-apoptotic signaling molecules in heat shock-induced HaCaT cells compared with control cells.

CONCLUSION

AAIC potentially includes effective anti-oxidative activity, anti-inflammatory, and anti-apoptotic properties against heat shock-induced keratinocytes, suggesting that it can be provided as a raw material for imparting skin health.

Analyzing the Synergistic Effects of Antioxidants in Combating Photoaging Using Model Nematode, Caenorhabditis elegans

Aging, a universal and unique process, occurs both intrinsically (chronological) and extrinsically (photoaging). Ultraviolet-A (UV-A)-mediated stress is a growing health hazard to mankind as it is the major cause of photoaging, which could lead to much damage of skin cells and tissues ranging from tan, burn, or even cancer. The present study focuses on the role of antioxidants and other natural compounds which have been widely used in oral/topical applications to combat and delay the effects of photoaging using model nematode Caenorhabditis elegans. Compounds like green tea extract, naringenin, and naringin, which are known for their antioxidant properties, were able to extend life span and healthspan of the nematode in normal as well as under UV-A-mediated stress conditions. Regulation of both the stress-responsive genes (skn-1 and sir-2.1) and the aging-regulating genes (daf-2 and age-1) was attributable for these conditions. Interestingly, it was observed that these compounds when combined in equal ratios by weight worked synergistically to combat the aging process. Pronounced synergistic effects were observed during UV-A-mediated stress conditions, suggesting that these could be used as potential antiphotoaging compounds which will be of greater significance for health-based research.

Asiatic Acid Glucosamine Salt Alleviates Ultraviolet B-induced Photoaging of Human Dermal Fibroblasts and Nude Mouse Skin

Herbal extracts including asiatic acid (AA) have become popular candidates of anti-photoaging agents due to their anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties and minimal side effect. Nevertheless, low bioavailability due to poor solubility limits their practical application. In this study, a highly bioavailable form of AA called AAGS (compounded by asiatic acid and glucosamine) was investigated for its anti-photoaging effect using both in vitro and in vivo models along with UVB irradiation. The results showed that AAGS alleviated UVB-induced cell proliferation inhibition by reducing G2 phase arrest and cell apoptosis rate as well as the gene expressions of P53, BAX, CASPASE 3 and CASPASE 9, but enhancing BCL-2 expression. It also reduced the production of reactive oxygen species along with increased gene expression of GPX-1 and downregulated the gene expression of IL-1β, IL-6, IL-8, IL-17 and TNF-α compared to nontreated cells. In vivo results demonstrated the antiphotodamaging effects by restoring skin thickness, collagen content and reducing MMPs expression, which are also supported by reduced MMPs gene expression and enhanced collagen I and TGF-β1 gene expression in vitro. Thus, AAGS may become a potential anti-photoaging agent for topical use due to its capability of self-assembling into a water gel.

In Vitro Antioxidant, Anti-Biofilm, and Solar Protection Activities of Melocactus zehntneri (Britton & Rose) Pulp Extract

Cactaceae plants are important due to their nutritional and therapeutic values. This study aimed to identify the phytochemical profile and biological activities of six Melocactus zehntneri pulp extracts: hexane extract (HE), chloroform extract (CE), ethanol extract (EE), methanol extract (ME), final water extract (FWE), and water extract (WE). Sugar, phenolic compounds, and protein content of the extracts were determined. Then thin layer chromatography (TLC) was performed to detect the presence of terpenes (ursolic and oleanolic acids), saponins, sugars, and glycoproteins. These extracts were analyzed for antioxidant activity via in vitro assay. HE showed 75% ferric chelating activity. All extracts showed 80-100% superoxide and hydroxyl radical-scavenging activities, respectively. Further, all extracts at 25 µg/mL showed 60% activity against DPPH. Moreover, in the 3T3 cells lines, no cytotoxicity was observed; however, therapeutic activity against the effects of the H₂O₂ treatment was exhibited. Finally, the polar extracts (EE, ME, FWE, and WE), particularly WE, elicited activity against the biofilms of Staphylococcus epidermidis, and HE and CE expressed a capacity for solar protection.

UVA Photoprotective Activity of Brown Macroalgae Sargassum cristafolium

Sunscreens today contain several synthetic UV (Ultraviolet) filter molecules to protect the skin epidermis from UV radiation damage. However, these molecules may create several negative effects on human skin. Due to this condition, there is an increase in the development of natural products to replace uses of these synthetic chemicals. Brown macroalgae Sargassum has been recently studied for its photoprotective activities. The purpose of this study is to investigate photoprotective activity of one of most abundant Sargassum species in Lombok coast; Sargassum cristaefolium. Spectrophotometry analysis with UV-VIS revealed the UV spectra absorbing capability of Sargassum cristaefolium (SC) in the UVA spectrum range (314–400 nm). Furthermore, spectrometry analyses with LC-MS revealed the existence of UV absorbing compound MAA-palythene. In correlation, SC ethanol extracts also demonstrate that it could protect DNA from UVA irradiation as analyzed in vitro in HeLa cell model. The effects of SC on UVA exposed-dorsal mice skin have also shown interesting results, as mice pretreated with SC before UVA exposure showed protective activity on the epidermal integrity similar as positive control. Whereas, UV exposed mice without SC or commercial products resulted in increased epidermal thickness, which is the common parameter of skin photoaging. In addition, pretreated mice with SC also show protective effects in the formation of collagen connective tissues. Overall, current results show promising photoprotective activity of SC against UV radiation. More advanced investigations of SC as a potential photoprotective agent would be reasonable for development of macroalgae-based natural skin protection products.

Manganese Oxide Nanoclusters for Skin Photoprotection

An ultraviolet (UV) filter is the core component of sunscreen and protects skin from various photo damages. Current UV filters are hampered by skin penetration, poor photostability, photocatalytic generation of harmful reactive oxygen species (ROS), and potential environmental risks. In this work, manganese dioxide nanoclusters were developed as an eco-friendly UV filter by a facile two-step synthesis, using colloid silica as support under ambient conditions. These nanoclusters show a better UV-shielding profile than commercial titanium dioxide nanoparticles and capability to scavenge various ROS. They can be easily incorporated by a sunscreen formula and demonstrate an excellent skin photoprotection performance both in vitro and in vivo.

P1G10, the Proteolytic Fraction from Vasconcellea cundinamarcensis, Stimulates Tissue Repair after Acute Exposure to Ultraviolet B Radiation

BACKGROUND

P1G10 is a cysteine proteolytic fraction from Vasconcellea cundinamarcensis latex, obtained by chromatographic separation on Sephadex-G10 and ultrafiltration. This fraction enhances healing in different models of skin lesions, and displays a protective/healing effect against gastric ulcers, where it was suggested an antioxidant role.

METHODS

We evaluated here the effect of topical treatment with P1G10, in mice lesions induced by UVB.

RESULTS

After single exposure to 2.4 J cm-2 UVB, P1G10 reduced erythema, increased cellularity of hypodermis, enhanced MPO activity and IL1β, and inhibited COX2 levels. These results point to an anti-inflammatory effect by P1G10. This fraction displayed antioxidant activity by reversing the depletion of glutathione (GSH), glutathione peroxidase (GSH-Px), superoxide dismutase (SOD) and reducing the catalase activity increased by UVB. These changes may be related to a reduction in MDA observed in groups treated with P1G10. P1G10 also inhibited MMP-9, caspase-3 and pkat while increasing p53 levels.

Obtainment of an enriched fraction of Inga edulis: identification using UPLC-DAD-MS/MS and photochemopreventive screening

Inga edulis is a fruit tree native from Central and South America. Different species of Inga have demonstrated high polyphenolic content and high antioxidant capacity. The oxidative stress significantly contributes to the development of several chronicle diseases, particularly age-related diseases. Therefore, photochemoprevention is an emerging interest in the use of naturally occurring antioxidants for their therapeutic use. A partial purification of the extract was carried out onto macroporous resin and the main components of I. edulis leaf extract and fraction were identified using UPLC-DAD-MS/MS as epicatechin, apigenin C-di-hexoside, myricetin-O-hexose-deoxyhexose, myricetin-O-deoxyhexose and vicenin-2, which was identified for the first time in I. edulis. Both extract and fraction presented high antioxidant capacity, the fraction exhibiting higher polyphenol and flavonoid contents and higher content of vicenin-2, suggesting that the fractioning process effectively resulted in the partial purification of the extract. The cytotoxicity and photostability were assessed in L929 fibroblast cells to evaluate whether I. edulis extract and fraction were suitable for topical application. The UVA and UVB irradiated extract and fraction did not decrease the antioxidant capacity and cell viability of L929 fibroblasts, demonstrating the photostability of the samples. The fractioning process successfully purified and enriched I. edulis extract, and both the extract and fraction are potential candidates to be safely incorporated in topical photochemopreventive formulations.

Protective effect of 3,5‑dicaffeoyl‑epi‑quinic acid against UVB‑induced photoaging in human HaCaT keratinocytes

Derivatives of caffeoylquinic acid (CQA) have been studied and reported as potent bioactive molecules possessing various health benefits including antioxidant and anti‑inflammatory activities. In the present study, the protective effect of 3,5‑dicaffeoyl‑epi‑quinic acid (DCEQA) isolated from Atriplex gmelinii on UVB‑induced damages was investigated in human HaCaT keratinocytes. The effect of DCEQA against UVB‑induced oxidative stress‑mediated damages was determined measuring its ability to alleviate UVB‑induced elevation of oxidative stress, proinflammatory response and antioxidant enzyme suppression through nuclear factor‑like 2 (Nrf2). Treatment with DCEQA hindered the generation of intracellular reactive oxygen species. Increased levels of proinflammatory cytokines TNF‑α, COX‑2, IL‑6 and IL‑1β following UVB exposure were suppressed by the introduction of DCEQA. Additionally, DCEQA upregulated the mRNA and protein expression of antioxidant enzymes superoxide dismutase‑1 and heme oxygenase‑1 which were inhibited under UVB irradiation. Antioxidant enzyme regulation transcription factor Nrf2 was also upregulated in the presence of DCEQA. These results suggest that DCEQA prevents photoaging via protection of keratinocytes from UVB irradiation by ameliorating the oxidative stress and pro‑inflammatory response.