Bioactive compounds from natural resources against skin aging

Hypericum scabrum L.-infused locust bean gum/agar hydrogel film: A novel candidate for anti-aging facial mask applications

This study investigated the anti-aging potential of Hypericum scabrum L. extract and developed a biopolymer-based hydrogel film designed for use as a facial mask. The research evaluated key anti-aging properties, such as the inhibition of collagenase, elastase, and hyaluronidase enzymes, as well as antioxidant activity, and the cytotoxic, genotoxic, and antigenotoxic effects of the extract. Furthermore, the chemical profile of the extract was thoroughly analyzed using LC-MS/MS. The development of a hydrogel film containing locust bean gum (LBG), agar, and glycerol, integrated with H. scabrum extract, was undertaken to provide an innovative and environmentally sustainable solution for skin aging. The structural and functional characteristics of the hydrogel were analyzed using SEM, XRD, FTIR, and TGA/DTA. Additionally, mechanical testing, swelling, weight loss, thickness, in vitro release kinetics, and antibacterial properties were assessed. The H. scabrum extract demonstrated substantial collagenase inhibition, pronounced antioxidant effects, and no genotoxicity, while also exhibiting notable antigenotoxicity (24-69 %). SEM analysis revealed that the unswollen hydrogel had a uniform, smooth surface, while swelling led to a moderately rough texture with pore formation. The hydrogel exhibited rapid swelling (106 ± 1.52 %) and drug release (34.4 ± 0.21 %) within the first 10 min. Thickness and weight loss were within optimal ranges, and the hydrogel exhibited antibacterial activity against methicillin-resistant Staphylococcus aureus (MRSA). These findings suggest that the H. scabrum-infused hydrogel film has the potential to serve as a promising candidate for use as an anti-aging facial mask, offering effective anti-aging benefits in an eco-friendly, biocompatible, and sustainable formulation.

Thiadiazole chitosan conjugates as a novel cosmetic ingredient for rinse-off hair conditioners: design, formulation, characterization and in silico-molecular docking studies

Recently, chitosan derivatives, as eco-sustainable and renewable products, have been recorded to be highly effective toward cosmetics with potent biological activity. The main core of this research is to develop an organic hair conditioner (OHC) based on two chitosan-thiadiazole conjugates, chitosan-(ethylthio‑thiadiazole) (CH-ETD) and chitosan-(benzylthio‑thiadiazole) (CH-BTD), with natural fragrances. A series of nine OHC formulae were prepared (CH1-CH3 for chitosan based OHC, E1-E3 for CH-ETD based OHC, and B1-B3 for CH-BTD based OHC) and characterized based on their visual examination, pH, thermal stability, dirt dispersion, moisturizing time, percentage of solid content, hair irritation, rinsing, combing, and the luster. The results showed that the pH values of all OHC formulae were 4.2-4.7 which is considered acceptable to avoid skin irritation. A distinctive film surrounds each individual hair shaft in the CH-ETD and CH-BTD treated groups when compared to control hair without the application of hair conditioner under a scanning electron microscope SEM with a magnification power of 100 μm. Additionally, every single hair shaft is clearly covered, and the control group exhibited noticeable hair issues that were not observed in the treated groups, which showed no signs of tangling. Due to the end-use performance properties of the formulated hair conditioner products, it can be concluded that the formulas of (CH, E2, and B2) were the best efficacy; hair easier to style, detangle the hair, retain moisture, not be very thick, not cause irritation or inflammation, minimize frizz, and create a protective barrier on the hair. These findings collectively validate the potential of CH-ETD and CH-BTD based formulations coupled with natural perfumery as a transformative approach to hair care, aligning with consumer preferences for both efficacy and environmental sustainability. Furthermore, in this work, docking studies have been conducted to provide theoretical proof about the significant roles of chitosan and keratin in hair growth and cosmetic applications (skin).

Counteracting Skin Aging In Vitro by Phytochemicals

The skin is the most extensive organ in the human body. Photo exposure to ultraviolet (UV) rays causes several damages to skin cells, including premature skin aging, the onset of possible DNA mutations, and the risk of developing cancers, including melanoma. Protecting skin from the damaging effects of sun exposure through the application of creams and filters is important to prevent irreversible damages. Several natural extracts and biomolecules with antioxidant activity are widely used in the production of dietary supplements or topical products, for the prevention and treatment of skin affections. Within this context, we pre-treated human skin fibroblasts (HFF1), skin-isolated stem cells (SSCs) and keratinocytes (HaCaT) with two creams containing a specific solar protection factor (SPF) for 72 h and then exposed the cells to UV light. Gene expression analysis was performed for the key cell cycle regulators (p16, p19, p21, p53 and TERT). Cell senescence was assessed by colorimetric assays of beta-galactosidase and antioxidant potential, revealing the ability of treated cells to counteract free radical production as a result of oxidative stress. Finally, possible mutations in DNA induced by photo exposure were studied. The results obtained demonstrated that the tested products elicit positive effects on all skin cell populations, preserving them from photo exposure damages and premature senescence, being also able to increase the DNA repairing mechanisms and inducing a youngest phenotype.

Methylcellulose/Chitosan bioactive films enriched with Achyranthes aspera leaves extract: An innovative approach for sustainable cosmetic face mask applications

Adapting more sustainable materials like biopolymers to limit environmental pollution has resulted in significant advancements in various fields, particularly in biological science. The present study reports the fabrication and evaluation of the physicochemical properties of Achyranthes aspera leaves (AAL) extract loaded methylcellulose (MC)/chitosan (CS) bioactive films (MAC). FTIR, SEM and XRD results suggested that the AAL extract was compatible with the MC/CS blend and evenly dispersed throughout the MC/CS matrix. Mechanical properties evidenced significant enhancements in elongation at break. Incorporation of AAL extract significantly improved the surface wettability (~22 %), water vapor permeability (~69 %), swelling behavior (~44 %) and UV light barrier capabilities of bioactive films, demonstrating their skin moisturizing capacity and ability to prevent sunburns. Bioactive films containing a higher content of AAL extract presented enhanced bacterial inhibitory activity against E. coli and S. aureus, antioxidant efficacy (~85 %) and protein denaturation inhibitory activity (~44 %) compared to control MC/CS film. In vitro cytocompatibility tests on MEF (mouse embryonic fibroblast) cells revealed the nontoxicity (>85 % cell viability) and cytocompatibility of MAC bioactive films. Thus, MAC bioactive films have great potential to be employed as an antiaging cosmetic face mask without any risk of cytotoxicity.

Coriander: A holistic outlook on its chemistry and pharmacology

Coriander (Coriandrum sativum L.) is a nutraceutically renowned annual herb from Apiaceae family and used in cuisines in different countries in different ways to enhance the tastes, flavour and nutritional values of foods. Fruit (seed) has several medicinally valuable chemical components viz. Linalool, Geranyl acetate, Limonene, Camphor, Geraniol, and other while leaves are rich in (E)-2-Decenal, (E)-2-Dodecenal, Linalool, (E)-2-Undecenal, Decanol and other as the major constituents along with various noteworthy minor components. It has numerous traditional medicinal applications like useful in joint pain, rheumatoid arthritis, inflammation, digestive stimulant, carminative, anti-bilious, etc. Thus, this review has been prepared to comprehensively disclose its chemical constituents, chemical structures and main applications i.e. antioxidant, antibacterial, antifungal, anti-allergic, anti-aging, anticancer, anti-inflammatory, anti-hyperglycemic, anti-diabetic, anxiolytic effect, role in food preservation, skin sensitivity, natural alternative of antibiotics, and other miscellaneous applications. Toxicity of coriander has also been briefly described to present its safety profile.

Evaluation of the Anti-Aging Properties of Ethanolic Extracts from Selected Plant Species and Propolis by Enzyme Inhibition Assays and 2D/3D Cell Culture Methods

Background: Skin aging is a complex biological process affected by internal and external factors that disrupt the skin structure, especially in sun-exposed areas. Elastin and collagen in the dermis layer, responsible for the skin's resistance and elasticity, have been the main subject of research. Since tyrosinase (TYR) is an enzyme found in different organisms and plays an essential role in melanogenesis, inhibitors of this enzyme have been the target mechanism for skin-bleaching product research. Methods: We selected the plant species Cotinus coggygria Scop., Garcinia mangostana L., Pistacia vera L., Vitis vinifera L., and propolis, which exhibited activity against a minimum of three target enzymes-elastase, collagenase, and TYR-in our previous screening study to find the suitable raw material for a cosmetic product. In the current research, the extracts from these samples were tested through a cell-free enzyme assay using validated elastase, collagenase, and TYR inhibition kits. We also performed the safety and efficacy tests of the selected extracts with 2D/3D cell culture methods. Results: Our data revealed the propolis extract among the tested ones displayed remarkable anti-inflammatory activity in the 2D (NF-κB induction: 10.81%) and 3D assays. Cotinus coggygria leaf and Garcinia mangostana shell extracts exhibited anti-inflammatory activity in the 2D luciferase reporter assay via TNFα addition. C. coggygria leaf, V. vinifera (grape) seed, and propolis extracts were selected for testing in 3D cell culture methods based on the 2D cytotoxicity results with cell viability values of 54.75%, 93.19%, and 98.64% at 34.25 µg/mL, respectively. The general phytochemical profiles of these three extracts were examined in terms of 53 phenolic compounds with LC-MS/MS, revealing that quinic acid, epicatechin, and acacetin were the dominant phenolics among the tested ones. Conclusions: It is the first study conducted to evaluate the use of the extracts indicated above in cosmetics by employing procedures involving 3D cell culture.

Peptides from Dalian Stichopus japonicus: Antioxidant Activity and Melanogenesis Inhibition In Vitro Cell Models and In Vivo Zebrafish Models Guided by Molecular Docking Screening

This article aims to reveal the optimal peptide segment with antioxidant activity from Dalian Stichopus japonicus, investigate its anti-melanogenesis effect, and elucidate its mechanisms of action both in vitro and in vivo. The best antioxidant alcalase hydrolysates, identified by the previous screening of proteases, was isolated by ultrafiltration; it was found that the components with a molecular weight of ≤ 3 kDa exhibited the best activity. The chemical components were characterized using LC-MS/MS. Through molecular docking, GPIGF was identified as the peptide segment with the best antioxidant and melanogenesis-inhibitory activity. A search in the NCBI database revealed that GPIGF is a newly obtained natural oligopeptide. Further experiments with synthesized GPIGF in vitro showed that it effectively reduces cell apoptosis and damage, and inhibits the expression of melanin-related genes, including tyrosinase (TYR), and associated proteins TRP-1, TRP-2, and MITF. In vivo experiments with the zebrafish model demonstrated that GPIGF significantly inhibits AAPH-induced apoptosis in zebrafish larvae, reduces the production of ROS, and suppresses melanin generation on the skin surface without exhibiting embryotoxicity. This study provides a research foundation for the development of antioxidants from Dalian Stichopus japonicus, which could serve as natural whitening and anti-aging agents, supporting its integrated utilization and development.

Olive oil wastewater: a comprehensive review on examination of toxicity, valorization strategies, composition, and modern management approaches

Olive mill wastewater (OMWW), a by-product of olive oil production, poses severe environmental challenges due to its toxicity, primarily caused by its high organic load and phenolic compounds, along with organic acids, lipids, and heavy metals. These components contribute to its elevated chemical and biological oxygen demand, making OMWW a persistent pollutant that necessitates urgent and effective treatment strategies. The ecological risks, including water contamination, soil degradation, and biodiversity loss, underscore the need for sustainable management approaches. This review explores the composition and toxicity of OMWW, examining advanced treatment technologies, e.g., bioremediation, membrane filtration, advanced oxidation processes, and integrated systems that enhance efficiency while minimizing environmental impact. In addition, this study investigates the potential for OMWW valorization as a rich source of polyphenols with antioxidant, antimicrobial, and anti-inflammatory properties. These bioactive compounds have significant economic value in industries such as pharmaceuticals, cosmetics, and functional foods. By evaluating sustainable extraction techniques and integrating advanced treatments with economic valorization, OMWW can be transformed from an environmental pollutant into a valuable resource. Such integrated approaches support a circular economy within the olive oil industry, reducing its ecological footprint and fostering sustainable development.

Utility Assessment of Isolated Starch and Extract from Thai Yam (Dioscorea hispida Dennst.) for Cosmetic via In Vitro and In Vivo Studies

In Thailand, wild yam, or Dioscorea hispida Dennst., is a starchy crop that is usually underutilized in industry. The purpose of this study was to isolate the starch and extract the phytochemical from D. hispida and use them in cosmetics. Starch was used instead of talcum, which can cause pulmonary talcosis in dusting powder formulas (DP 1-5). GC-MS was used to identify the bioactive components present in the ethanolic extract of D. hispida. The main compounds were identified as 9,12-octadecadienoic acid (Z,Z)- (6.51%), stigmasta-5,22-dien-3-ol, (3.beta.,22E)- (6.41%), linoleic acid ethyl ester (5.72%), (Z,Z)-9,12-octadeca-dienoic acid, 2,3-dihydroxy-propyl (3.89%), and campesterol (3.40%). Then, the extract was used as an ingredient in facial sleeping mask gel formulas (SM 1-SM 5). Stability tests, physical characteristics, enzyme inhibitions, and sensitization dermal toxicity tests were used to evaluate the DP and SM formulations. The results showed that the fresh tubers of D. hispida showed a 12.5% w/w starch content. The findings demonstrated that starch powder had a restricted size distribution, ranging from 2 to 4 μm, and a smooth surface that was polygonal. Following stability testing, the color, odor, size, and flowability of all DP formulations did not significantly differ. The SEM investigation revealed that DP particles were homogenous. For the sensitization dermal toxicity test, DP denoted no erythema or skin irritation in the guinea pigs. After stability testing, the colors of the SM formulas were deeper, and their viscosity slightly increased. The pH did not significantly change. After the stability test, SM formulas that contained Glycyrrhiza glabra and D. hispida extracts exhibited stable tyrosinase and elastase inhibitory activities, respectively. In the sensitization dermal toxicity test, guinea pigs showed skin irritation at level 2 (not severe) from SM, indicating that redness developed. All of these findings indicate that D. hispida is a plant that has potential for use in the cosmetics industry. Furthermore, D. hispida starch can be made into a beauty dusting powder, and more research should be conducted to develop an effective remedy for patients or those with skin problems.

Preparation and Evaluation of the Effectiveness of an Anti-Wrinkle Cream Containing Equisetum arvense and Soybean Extracts

BACKGROUND

Skin aging is a multifaceted condition marked by the development of wrinkles, reduced suppleness, and uneven pigmentation. Both endogenous and exogenous factors contribute to skin aging. Studies have examined the possible anti-aging advantages of horsetail and soybean extracts, which are abundant in antioxidants.

METHODS

A study was conducted to develop and assess the stability of an anti-wrinkle cream combining horsetail and soybean extracts over a period of 6 months. This study was a pilot study that was prospective and noncomparative in nature. An investigation was performed to explore the efficiency of a treatment on wrinkles on the forehead. The study involved 15 volunteers between the ages of 35 and 55, and the modified Fitzpatrick wrinkle grading scale (FWS) method was used to assess the results. The participants were directed to administer cream to the forehead region for a duration of eight sequential weeks. Images were acquired at the initial stage and after 8 weeks of treatment. An independent investigator evaluated the improvement in the overall appearance of the forehead skin by comparing clinical images taken before and after the therapy.

RESULTS

The cream exhibited exceptional stability, showing no noteworthy alterations in pH, viscosity, or microbiological count. The clinical findings demonstrated a notable decrease in the average FWS score from 8.7 ± 1.3 to 6.1 ± 1.8 (p < 0.005) after the treatment. 93.4% of the individuals experienced a positive alteration in the appearance of their forehead wrinkles.

CONCLUSION

The formulated cream presents a hopeful method to tackle skin aging issues, backed by its durability and effectiveness in diminishing wrinkles. Additional investigation is necessary to clarify the underlying mechanisms.

TRIAL REGISTRATION

IRCT20190917044799N1.

Marine cosmetics and the blue bioeconomy: From sourcing to success stories

As the global population continues to grow, so does the demand for longer, healthier lives and environmentally responsible choices. Consumers are increasingly drawn to naturally sourced products with proven health and wellbeing benefits. The marine environment presents a promising yet underexplored resource for the cosmetics industry, offering bioactive compounds with the potential for safe and biocompatible ingredients. This manuscript provides a comprehensive overview of the potential of marine organisms for cosmetics production, highlighting marine-derived compounds and their applications in skin/hair/oral-care products, cosmeceuticals and more. It also lays down critical safety considerations and addresses the methodologies for sourcing marine compounds, including harvesting, the biorefinery concept, use of systems biology for enhanced product development, and the relevant regulatory landscape. The review is enriched by three case studies: design of macroalgal skincare products in Iceland, establishment of a microalgal cosmetics spin-off in Italy, and the utilization of marine proteins for cosmeceutical applications.

Investigating the optimistic in-vitro and in-vivo therapeutic effects of wild grape: Vitis jacqumantii R. Parker

Vitis jacquemontii R. Parker is a wild grape traditionally used by indigenous people as a substitute for cultivated grapes. However, its therapeutic effects have not been extensively studied. In this study, we investigated the antioxidant, anticholinesterase, analgesic, and antidepressant properties of V. jacquemontii. The antioxidant potential of this wild fruit plant was evaluated using two widely recognized assays: 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) and 2,2-asino-bis (3-ethylbenzothiazoline-6-sulfonic acid) (ABTS). In-vitro anticholinesterase effects were determined by assessing butyrylcholinesterase (BChE) and acetylcholinesterase (AChE) inhibition. The analgesic activity was assessed through writhing and tail immersion test models, while the antidepressant effect was evaluated using forced swimming and tail suspension test models. Results revealed the exceptional potential of V. jacquemontii as a valuable natural resource. The fruit extract (VJF-Crd) demonstrated remarkable free radical scavenging abilities, with an impressive IC50 value of 34.96 μg/mL for DPPH and 56.48 μg/mL for ABTS. The leaf extract (VJL-Crd) also exhibited considerable antioxidant properties, with IC50 values of 73.68 μg/mL for DPPH and 86.72 μg/mL for ABTS. Furthermore, VJF-Crd and VJL-Crd extracts displayed potent inhibitory activity against cholinesterase enzymes, with VJF-Crd demonstrating strong inhibition and VJL-Crd showing moderate inhibition. In terms of analgesia, these extracts exhibited dose-dependent responses in various pain models, with significant protection against acetic acid-induced writhing and tail immersion, showcasing their potential as natural pain relievers. Moreover, both VJF-Crd and VJL-Crd extracts displayed a notable decrease in immobility in the forced swimming and tail suspension test models, indicating their potential as natural antidepressants. These findings underscore the untapped potential of V. jacquemontii as a source of valuable chemical constituents. The isolation and identification of phyto-constituents from this plant hold promise for new bioactive compounds, particularly in pain management. This study sheds light on the multifaceted medicinal attributes of V. jacquemontii and opens new avenues for developing natural remedies for different ailments, especially pain management.

Food-derived skin-care ingredient as a promising strategy for skin aging: Current knowledge and future perspectives

Skin aging involves complex biochemical reactions and has attracted a growing concern recently. For it, there is a great desire to replace the hazardous and easy-recurring "therapy means" with "daily care" based on some natural and healthy ingredients. According to a novel theory called "homology of cosmetic and food", the safety, efficacy and accessibility of food-derived skin-care ingredients offer an attractive option for combating skin aging, which will be an inevitable trend of dermatology in the future. Ultraviolet (UV) radiation is a major trigger of skin aging. It acts on the skin and generates reactive oxygen species, which causing oxidative stress. More, matrix metalloproteinase and melanin levels are also upregulated by the UV-activated mitogen-activated protein kinase (MAPK) pathway and tyrosinase, respectively, resulting in collagen degradation and melanin deposition in the extracellular matrix. Through the existing studies, the relevant key biomarkers and biochemical pathways can be effectively controlled by skin-care ingredients from animal-derived and plant-derived foods as well as traditional herbs, thus preserving human skin from UV-induced aging in terms of antioxidant, collagen protection and melanin inhibition. To extend their application potential, some carriers represented by nanoliposomes can facilitate the transdermal absorption of food-derived skin-care ingredients by the variation of molecular weight and lipid solubility. The present review will provide an overview of the trigger mechanisms of skin aging, and focus on the molecular biology aspects of food-derived skin-care ingredients in skin matrix and the critical summarize of their research state.

Harnessing the nutraceutical and therapeutic potential of Allium spp.: current insights and future directions

Apart from the culinary usage, Alliums are known for their therapeutic potential since antiquity. Alliums contain diverse bioactive compounds such as, sulfur-containing compounds (allicin, diallyl sulfides), flavonoids, and saponins. These compounds have demonstrated a wide range of pharmacological actions, including antioxidant, anticancer, anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, neuroprotective, cardioprotective activities and treatment of metabolic disorders such as diabetes and hyperlipidemia. Despite encouraging preclinical results, translating these findings into clinical practice remains difficult, necessitating more rigorous human trials and molecular research. One of the major constrain in enhancing the therapeutic efficacy of these bioactive compound is to develop large-scale extraction techniques besides improving their stability, solubility, and bioavailability. The current scenario urges to focus research on optimizing the bioavailability of these compounds, evaluate their synergistic effects with existing therapies, as well as their long-term safety. This perspective article provides a comprehensive overview of the therapeutic potential of Allium spp. and suggests the key avenues for future research aiming at realising their full clinical potential.

Enhancing Cellular Homeostasis: Targeted Botanical Compounds Boost Cellular Health Functions in Normal and Premature Aging Fibroblasts

The human skin, the body's largest organ, undergoes continuous renewal but is significantly impacted by aging, which impairs its function and leads to visible changes. This study aimed to identify botanical compounds that mimic the anti-aging effects of baricitinib, a known JAK1/2 inhibitor. Through in silico screening of a botanical compound library, 14 potential candidates were identified, and 7 were further analyzed for their effects on cellular aging. The compounds were tested on both normal aged fibroblasts and premature aging fibroblasts derived from patients with Hutchinson-Gilford Progeria Syndrome (HGPS). Results showed that these botanical compounds effectively inhibited the JAK/STAT pathway, reduced the levels of phosphorylated STAT1 and STAT3, and ameliorated phenotypic changes associated with cellular aging. Treatments improved cell proliferation, reduced senescence markers, and enhanced autophagy without inducing cytotoxicity. Compounds, such as Resveratrol, Bisdemethoxycurcumin, Pinosylvin, Methyl P-Hydroxycinnamate, cis-Pterostilbene, and (+)-Gallocatechin, demonstrated significant improvements in both control and HGPS fibroblasts. These findings suggest that these botanical compounds have the potential to mitigate age-related cellular alterations, offering promising strategies for anti-aging therapies, particularly for skin health. Further in vivo studies are warranted to validate these results and explore their therapeutic applications.

Effects of Plant Meristem-Cell-Based Cosmetics on Menopausal Skin: Clinical Data and Mechanisms

A randomised open clinical/laboratory study was performed to evaluate the safety and cosmetic efficacy of facial cosmetics for females during the menopausal period. The cosmetics contain active ingredients of meristem cells derived from the medicinal plants Leontopodium alpinum, Buddeleja davidii, Centella asiatica, and Echinacea angustifolia. Recently, the major bioactive molecules of these medicinal plants (leontopodic acid, verbascoside, asiaticoside, and echinacoside, respectively) have been thoroughly evaluated in vitro for molecular pathways and cellular mechanisms and their preventive/curative effects on human skin cells exposed to factors promoting premature skin ageing and cellular senescence. Nevertheless, clinical data on their safety/efficacy to ageing human skin are scarce. This clinical study enrolled 104 Caucasian females in pre-menopause, menopause, or post-menopause periods. They applied cosmetic serums daily for 1 month. Questionnaires and instrumental and biochemical methods were used to assess dermatological/ophthalmological safety and cosmetic efficacy through changes of the skin physiology markers characteristic of ageing/menopause (elasticity, barrier functions, moisture, sebum, ultrasonic properties, and collagen content and structure). Quantitative microbiological tests were carried out for skin microbiota fluctuations. Data showed that the cosmetics were safe, and they shifted the skin physiology parameters to a younger biological age, enhanced collagen synthesis, inhibited lipid peroxidation, and favoured normal microbiota.

Research Progress on Injectable Microspheres as New Strategies for the Treatment of Osteoarthritis Through Promotion of Cartilage Repair

Osteoarthritis (OA) is a degenerative disease caused by a variety of factors with joint pain as the main symptom, including fibrosis, chapping, ulcers, and loss of cartilage. Traditional treatment can only delay the progression of OA, and classical delivery system have many side effects. In recent years, microspheres have shown great application prospects in the field of OA treatment. Microspheres can support cells, reproduce the natural tissue microenvironment in vitro and in vivo, and are an efficient delivery system for the release of drugs or biological agents, which can promote cell proliferation, migration, and differentiation. Thus, they have been widely used in cartilage repair and regeneration. In this review, preparation processes, basic materials, and functional characteristics of various microspheres commonly used in OA treatment are systematically reviewed. Then it is introduced surface modification strategies that can improve the biological properties of microspheres and discussed a series of applications of microsphere functionalized scaffolds in OA treatment. Finally, based on bibliometrics research, the research development, future potential, and possible research hotspots of microspheres in the field of OA therapy is systematically and dynamically evaluated. The comprehensive and systematic review will bring new understanding to the field of microsphere treatment of OA.

Health-Promoting Properties of Natural Flavonol Glycosides Isolated from Staphylea pinnata L

Staphylea, also called bladdernuts, is a genus of plants belonging to the family Staphyleaceae, widespread in tropical or temperate climates of America, Europe, and the Far East. Staphylea spp. produce bioactive metabolites with antioxidant properties, including polyphenols which have not been completely investigated for their phytotherapeutic potential, even though they have a long history of use for food. Here, we report the isolation of six flavonol glycosides from the hydroalcoholic extract of aerial parts of Staphylea pinnata L., collected in Italy, using a solid-phase extraction technique. They were identified using spectroscopic, spectrometric, and optical methods as three quercetin and three isorhamnetin glycosides. Among the flavonol glycosides isolated, isoquercetin and quercetin malonyl glucoside showed powerful antioxidant, antimicrobial, and wound healing promoting activity and thus are valuable as antiaging ingredients for cosmeceutical applications and for therapeutic applications in skin wound repair.

Five New Tamarixetin Glycosides from Astragalus thracicus Griseb. Including Some Substituted with the Rare 3-Hydroxy-3-methylglutaric Acid and Their Collagenase Inhibitory Effects In Vitro

Along with the known kaempferol-3-O-α-l-rhamnopyranosyl-(1 → 2)-[6-O-(3-hydroxy-3-methylglutaryl)]-β-d-galactopyranoside (1), five new flavonoids, containing the rarely isolated aglycon tamarixetin, were isolated from a methanolic extract of the endemic Balkan species Astragalus thracicus Griseb. Three of the new compounds are substituted with 3-hydroxy-3-methylglutaryl residue (HMG), untypical for the genus Astragalus. The compounds were identified as tamarixetin-3-O-α-l-rhamnopyranosyl-(1 → 2)-[6-O-(3-hydroxy-3-methylglutaryl)]-β-d-galactopyranoside (2), tamarixetin-3-O-(2,6-di-O-α-l-rhamnopyranosyl)-β-d-galactopyranoside (3), tamarixetin 3-O-β-d-apiofuranosyl-(1 → 2)-β-d-galactopyranoside (4), tamarixetin-3-O-β-d-apiofuranosyl-(1 → 2)-[6-O-(3-hydroxy-3-methylglutaryl)]-β-d-galactopyranoside (5), and tamarixetin-3-O-β-d-apiofuranosyl-(1 → 2)-[α-l-rhamnopyranosyl-(1 → 6)]-β-d-galactopyranoside (6). Selected compounds from A. thracicus were tested to evaluate their anticollagenase activity. The greatest effect was observed for quercetin-3-O-β-d-apiofuranosyl-(1 → 2)-β-d-galactopyranoside, possibly due to the presence of an ortho-dihydroxy arrangement of flavonoid ring B. The effect on collagenase and elastase was further evaluated also by in silico study, and the test compounds showed some level of in silico interaction.

Bioactive Compounds and Potential Health Benefits through Cosmetic Applications of Cherry Stem Extract

Cherry stems, prized in traditional medicine for their potent antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties, derive their efficacy from abundant polyphenols and anthocyanins. This makes them an ideal option for addressing skin aging and diseases. This study aimed to assess the antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effects of cherry stem extract for potential skincare use. To this end, the extract was first comprehensively characterized by HPLC-ESI-qTOF-MS. The extract's total phenolic content (TPC), antioxidant capacity, radical scavenging efficiency, and its ability to inhibit enzymes related to skin aging were determined. A total of 146 compounds were annotated in the cherry stem extract. The extract effectively fought against NO· and HOCl radicals with IC50 values of 2.32 and 5.4 mg/L. Additionally, it inhibited HYALase, collagenase, and XOD enzymes with IC50 values of 7.39, 111.92, and 10 mg/L, respectively. Based on the promising results that were obtained, the extract was subsequently gently integrated into a cosmetic gel at different concentrations and subjected to further stability evaluations. The accelerated stability was assessed through temperature ramping, heating-cooling cycles, and centrifugation, while the long-term stability was evaluated by storing the formulations under light and dark conditions for three months. The gel formulation enriched with cherry stem extract exhibited good stability and compatibility for topical application. Cherry stem extract may be a valuable ingredient for creating beneficial skincare cosmeceuticals.

Skin Anti-Aging Potential through Whitening and Wrinkle Improvement Using Fermented Oil Derived from Hermetia illucens Larvae

As the aging population increases, so has interest among emerging seniors in anti-aging ingredients that enhance functionality by incorporating fermentation with natural materials. In this study, fermentation conditions for enhancing the functionality of Hermetia illucens larvae oil (HIO) were established, and its anti-aging potential was evaluated. First, the lipase activity and amount of lipid degradation products of the fermentation strains were measured in order to select Lactobacillus gasseri and Lactiplantibacillus plantarum as the strains with high fermentation ability. A fermentation period of 28 d and a fermentation method that uses only the strain culture medium were established by evaluating the fermentation degree after fermenting HIO with the selected strains. The whitening functionality test results of fermented HIO (FHIO) showed an increase of approximately 20% in extracellular tyrosinase inhibition activity compared with HIO. Additionally, within melanocytes, there was a 12% increase in tyrosinase inhibition activity and a 26% enhancement in melanin production inhibition ability. For wrinkle-improving functionality, it was observed that, for fibroblasts, there was a 10% increase in collagen production, a 9% increase in collagenase inhibition ability, and an 8% increase in elastase inhibition ability. Therefore, FHIO was confirmed to be an effective cosmetic raw material, with high functionality for anti-aging within the senior generation. This is achieved through increased whitening and wrinkle-improving functionality.

Evaluation of the Antimicrobial Activity of Geraniol and Selected Geraniol Transformation Products against Gram-Positive Bacteria

Both geraniol and the products of its transformation, thanks to their beneficial properties, find a variety of applications in cosmetics. Due to their antioxidant and moisturizing properties, these compounds can be added to skin care products such as face creams, lotions, oils, and masks. In addition, these compounds show some antibacterial and antifungal properties, making them suitable for application in skin care products to help fight against bacteria or fungi. This study determined the antimicrobial activity of geraniol and the compounds which were formed during its transformation in relation to selected Gram-positive bacteria, and the preliminary assessment was made whether these compounds can act as ingredients of preparations with potential antimicrobial activity in the treatment of various human diseases (for example diseases of the skin, digestive system, or urinary tract). In addition, this work presents studies on the microbiological purity of cream samples obtained with different contents of geraniol and its transformation products (contents of the tested compounds: 0.5%, 1.5%, 2.5%, 4%, 8%, and 12%). Antibacterial activity tests were performed using the disc diffusion method against Gram-positive cocci, including the reference strains Staphylococcus aureus ATCC 29213 and Enterococcus faecalis ATCC 29212, and against the clinical strains Staphylococcus aureus MRSA, Staphylococcus epidermidis, Enterococcus faecalis VRE VanB, Enterococcus faecium VRE VanA, and Enterococcus faecium VRE VanB. The most active ingredient against bacteria of the Staphylococcus genus was citral, followed by linalool and then geraniol. During our tests, in the case of bacteria of the Enterococcus genus, citral also showed the highest activity, but linalool, ocimenes, and geraniol showed a slightly lower activity. Moreover, this study examined the microbiological purity of cream samples obtained with various contents of geraniol and its transformation products. In the tests of the microbiological purity of cream samples, no growth of aerobic bacteria and fungi was found, which proves the lack of microbiological contamination of the obtained cosmetic preparations. On this basis, it was assessed that these compounds have preservative properties in the prepared creams. The addition of the analyzed compounds also had influence on the durability of the creams and had no effect on the change in their consistency, did not negatively affect the separation of phases during storage, and even had a positive effect on organoleptic sensations by enriching the smell of the tested samples.

An evaluation of the antioxidant potential and in vitro enzyme inhibition profile of selected bryophytes from Northeast Anatolia (Türkiye)

Interest in the use of bryophytes in pharmaceutical, cosmetic, and food industrial applications is growing worldwide due to their secondary metabolites. In this study, n-hexane crude extracts and further fractions (aqueous, ethyl acetate and n-butanol) of aqueous ethanol (80:20, ethanol:H2O, v/v) were obtained from five different bryophytes (Pellia epiphylla, Conocephalum conicum, Porella platyphylla, Plagiomnium cuspidatum and Mnium spinulosum) collected from Trabzon, Türkiye. The total phenolic compound (TPC) content, antioxidant capacity (AC) and enzyme inhibition activity (acetylcholine esterase, butyrylcholine esterase, tyrosinase, α-amylase and α-glucosidase) of the extracts and fractions were species-specific and varied significantly between the crude extracts and fractions. Among the different bryophytes, Porella platyphylla and Pellia epiphylla in n-butanol and Plagiomnium cuspidatum and Mnium spinulosum in ethyl acetate fraction exhibited the highest TPC contents and AC values. The contents of phenolic acids liberated in free, ester and glycoside forms were also species-specific. p-Hydroxybenzoic acid (p-HBA) in free form in P. cuspidatum and P. platyphylla, p-coumaric acid (p-CoA) in ester form and m-hydroxybenzoic acid (m-HBA) in glycoside form in M. spinulosum were the major phenolic acids in the bryophytes. The n-hexane extracts of the bryophytes, in particular M. spinulosum, had IC50 values ​​almost 100 times lower than acarbose. This suggests that M. spinulosum in particular may represent a possible candidate for the production of new antidiabetic agents.

Nigella sativa oil exhibits anti-aging effects in transgenic Alzheimer's Drosophila melanogaster via anti oxidant pathways: survival-rate and life span studies

In this article we aime to investigate he anti-aging effect of Nigella sativa oil. Transgenic flies engineered under UAS/GAL4 system were acquired from the Bloomington Drosophila stock center. For methodology, (LC50), 30 flies 2-3 days old were divided into four groups, and exposed to diets of 30, 60, 90, and 120 μL/10 g in 3 replicates at a density of 30 flies per vial. Mortality was recorded daily for 7 consecutive days. For survival, (150) 2-3 days adult flies were divided into four groups (I-IV), 100 flies in each group. Group I which served as control fed on 10 g of diet only, group II was fed 10 g of diet only, group III (AB42 + low dose) was fed on 10 g diet +6.39ul NSO, group IV (AB42 + high dose) was fed 10 diet + 12.77ul NSO. The administration lasted for 28 days. For the third phase, a similar protocol was adopted with each group having (400) flies, this phase lasted f till the last fly died. The effect of NSO was assessed by; Studying the mortality daily. Results revealed the lethal concentration of LC50 NSO to be 25.54 mg it was also observed from the study that exposure to NSO in food media at low doses has increased the lifespan of AB-42 treated flies. In conclusion, findings from this study suggest the efficacy of low-dose NSO increased the survival and life span of the AB-42 flies.

Electrosprayed Environment-Friendly Dry Triode-Like Facial Masks for Skincare

The cosmetics industry has a worrying impact on the environment, including the plastics used in products and packaging and environmentally unfriendly additives. In this study, we present an environment-friendly triode-like facial mask (TFM) that utilizes only green and degradable raw materials, nontoxic and harmless solvents, and electric energy to achieve distinct switchable directional water transport properties, avoids a wet storage environment, and reduces excessive packaging. The TFM demonstrates droplet stability when not in contact with the skin while facilitating rapid liquid transfer (15 μL) within durations of 2.8 s (dry skin) and 1.9 s (moist skin) upon contact. We elucidate the underlying mechanism behind this triode-like behavior, emphasizing the synergistic interaction of the wettability gradient, Gibbs pinning, and additional circumferential capillary force. Moreover, the TFM exhibits a reduction in the proportion of aging cells, decreasing from 44.33 to 13.75%, while simultaneously providing antibacterial and skin-beautifying effects. The TFM brings a novel experience while also holding the potential to reduce environmental pollution in the production, packaging, use, and recycling of cosmetics products.

Chemical profiling and dermatological and anti-aging properties of Syzygium jambos L. (Alston): evidence from molecular docking, molecular dynamics, and in vitro experiments

The phytoconstituents of the aqueous extract from Syzygium jambos L. (Alston) leaves were defined using HPLC-PDA-MS/MS and the antioxidant, anti-aging, antibacterial, and anti-biofilm activities of the extract were in silico and in vitro investigated. The antioxidant activities were performed using in vitro DPPH and FRAP assays as well as H2-DCFDA assay in HaCaT cells in which oxidative stress was induced by UVA radiation. Anti-aging activity was tested in vitro, using aging-related enzymes. The antibacterial, anti-biofilm and inhibitory effects on bacterial mobilities (swarming and swimming) were assessed against Pseudomonas aeruginosa. Results showed that S. jambos aqueous extract contained 28 phytochemicals belonging to different metabolite classes, mainly phenolic acids, gallic acid derivatives, flavonoids, and ellagitannins. Mineral content analysis showed that S. jambos leaves contained moderate amounts of nitrogen, potassium, manganese, magnesium, and zinc, relatively low amounts of phosphorus and copper, and high concentration of calcium and iron. The extract displayed strong antioxidant activities in vitro and inhibited UVA-induced oxidative stress in HaCaT cells. Docking the major compounds identified in the extract into the four main protein targets involved in skin aging revealed an appreciable inhibitory potential of these compounds against tyrosinase, elastase, hyaluronidase, and collagenase enzymes. Moreover, molecular dynamic simulations were adopted to confirm the binding affinity of some selected compounds towards the target enzymes. The extract exhibited pronounced in vitro anti-aging effects, compared to kojic acid and quercetin (the reference compounds). It also inhibited the growth of P. aeruginosa, counteracted its ability to form biofilm, and impeded its swarming and swimming mobilities. Altogether, these findings strongly propose S. jambos leaves as a promising source of bioactive metabolites for the development of natural cosmeceutical and dermatological agents.

Anti-Aging Potential of a Novel Ingredient Derived from Sugarcane Straw Extract (SSE)

Natural and sustainable anti-aging ingredients have gained attention from the cosmetic industry. This study evaluated the anti-aging potential of a sugarcane straw extract-based (SSE) cosmetic ingredient. First, cytotoxicity tests were assessed in keratinocytes and fibroblast cell lines, and sensitization was carried out through the direct peptide reactivity assay. Subsequently, various anti-aging properties were investigated, including inhibiting skin aging-related enzymes, promoting elastin and hyaluronic acid synthesis, and anti-pollution activity. Finally, a permeability assay using a synthetic membrane resembling skin was conducted. The results demonstrated that the SSE ingredient effectively inhibited elastase (55%), collagenase (25%), and tyrosinase (47%) while promoting hyaluronic acid production at non-cytotoxic and low-sensitizer concentrations. Moreover, it reduced the inflammatory response provoked by urban pollution, as evidenced by decreased levels of IL1-α and IL-6. However, it was observed that the phenolic compounds predominantly reached the skin's surface, indicating a limited ability to penetrate deeper layers of the skin. Therefore, it can be concluded that the SSE ingredient holds anti-aging properties, albeit with limited penetration into deeper skin layers. Further research and formulation advancements are needed to optimize the ingredient's ability to reach and exert its effects in deeper skin layers.

Novel Organogels from Mauritia flexuosa L.f and Caryodendron orinocense Karst.: A Topical Alternative

Organogels have importance for topical applications because they can be used to deliver drugs in a controlled and prolonged fashion. These are materials consisting of a three-dimensional network of organic molecules dispersed in a solvent. Recent studies have demonstrated that the solvent could be replaced by oils from non-conventional biologic sources. There is a diversity of not-explored species in the Amazon that are promising sources of vegetable oils with a promising composition. This study developed an organogel with buriti (Mauritia flexuosa L.f) and cacay (Caryodendron orinocense Karst.) oils, using cetostearyl alcohol as an organogelator due to its compatibility, stability, security, affordability, and it is readily available. The oils were characterized, and the organogels were synthesized by studying their crystal evolution and oil-binding capacity. The microstructure was evaluated with polarized light microscopy, fractal dimension, FTIR spectroscopy, XRD, and thermal and rheological analyses. It was found that the critical gelation concentration was higher for cacay oil as it possessed a higher amount of polyunsaturated triacylglycerols. The crystals of the buriti organogel had a smaller lamellar shape, a greater surface area, and physical and thermal stability; although, it presented a slower crystal evolution due to the low number of minor compounds and a greater number of saturated triacylglycerols. The polar fraction of the organogelators as well as triacylglycerol and minor polar compounds are important in forming crystallization nuclei. The study showed that Amazonian oils in crystallization processes form microstructures with differentiating physicochemical properties.

Exploring Major Flavonoid Phytochemicals from Nelumbo nucifera Gaertn. as Potential Skin Anti-Aging Agents: In Silico and In Vitro Evaluations

Nelumbo nucifera Gaertn., an aquatic medicinal plant (Nelumbonaceae family), has a history of use in traditional medicine across various regions. Our previous study demonstrated the skin anti-aging potential of its stamen ethanolic extract by effectively inhibiting collagenase and tyrosinase enzymes. While the major constituents of this extract are well documented, there is a lack of research on the individual compounds' abilities to inhibit skin aging enzymes. Therefore, this study aimed to evaluate the anti-aging potential of the primary flavonoids found in N. nucifera using both in silico and in vitro approaches. Our initial step involved molecular docking to identify compounds with the potential to inhibit collagenase, elastase, and tyrosinase. Among the seven flavonoids studied, kaempferol-3-O-robinobioside (Kae-3-Rob) emerged as the most promising candidate, exhibiting the highest docking scores for three skin aging-related enzymes. Subsequent enzyme-based inhibition assays confirmed that Kae-3-Rob displayed robust inhibitory activity against collagenase (58.24 ± 8.27%), elastase (26.29 ± 7.16%), and tyrosinase (69.84 ± 6.07%). Furthermore, we conducted extensive 200-ns molecular dynamics (MD) simulations, revealing the stability of the complexes formed between Kae-3-Rob and each enzyme along the MD simulation time. MM/PBSA-based binding free energy calculations indicated the considerably stronger binding affinity of Kae-3-Rob for collagenase and tyrosinase compared to elastase, which was related to the greater percentage of hydrogen bond occupations. These computational findings were consistent with the relatively high inhibitory activity of Kae-3-Rob against collagenase and tyrosinase observed in our in vitro experiment. In conclusion, the results obtained from this comprehensive study suggest that Kae-3-Rob, a key flavonoid from N. nucifera, holds significant potential as a source of bioactive compounds for anti-aging cosmeceutical and other phytopharmaceutical application.

Anti-Wrinkling Effect of 3,4,5-tri-O-caffeoylquinic Acid from the Roots of Nymphoides peltata through MAPK/AP-1, NF-κB, and Nrf2 Signaling in UVB-Irradiated HaCaT Cells

Nymphoides peltata has been widely used pharmacologically in traditional Chinese medicine to treat heat strangury and polyuria. The aim of this study was to isolate the bioactive components from N. peltata and evaluate their potential use as antioxidant and anti-wrinkle agents. Phytochemical investigation of the methanolic extract of N. peltata roots led to the isolation of 15 compounds (1-15), which were structurally determined as α-spinasterol (1), 3-O-β-D-glucopyranosyl-oleanolic acid 28-O-β-D-glucuronopyranoside (2), 4-hydroxybenzoic acid (3), protocatechuic acid (4), vanillic acid (5), p-coumaric acid (6), caffeic acid (7), ferulic acid (8), neochlorogenic acid (neo-CQA) (9), chlorogenic acid (CQA) (10), cryptochlorogenic acid (crypto-CQA) (11), isochlorogenic acid B (3,4-DCQA) (12), isochlorogenic acid A (3,5-DCQA) (13), isochlorogenic acid C (4,5-DCQA) (14), and 3,4,5-tri-O-caffeoylquinic acid (TCQA) (15). Of these 15 compounds, compound 2 was a new oleanane saponin, the chemical structure of which was characterized by 1D and 2D nuclear magnetic resonance (NMR) spectroscopic data and high-resolution electrospray ionization mass spectrometry (HRESIMS), as well as chemical reaction. Biological evaluation of the isolated compounds revealed that 3,4,5-tri-O-caffeoylquinic acid (TCQA) significantly improved Nrf2 levels in an Nrf2-ARE reporter HaCaT cell screening assay. TCQA was found to potently inhibit the Nrf2/HO-1 pathway and to possess strong anti-wrinkle activity by modulating the MAPK/NF-κB/AP-1 signaling pathway and thus inhibiting MMP-1 synthesis in HaCaT cells exposed to UVB. Our results suggest that TCQA isolated from N. peltata might be useful for developing effective antioxidant and anti-wrinkle agents.

Photoprotective Effects of Processed Ginseng Leaf Administration against UVB-Induced Skin Damage in Hairless Mice

Although ginseng leaves contain a larger amount of ginsenosides than the roots, studies on the protective effect of oral administration of ginseng leaves against photoaging are lacking. Processed ginseng leaves (PGL) prepared by acid reaction to increase effective ginsenoside content showed higher levels of Rg3 (29.35 mg/g) and Rk1 (35.16 mg/g) than ginseng leaves (Rg3 (2.14 mg/g) and Rk1 (ND)), and ginsenosides Rg3 and Rk1 were evaluated as active ingredients that protected human keratinocytes against UVB-induced cell damage by increasing cell proliferation and decreasing matrix metalloproteinase (MMP)-2 and 9 secretion. Herein, the effect of oral PGL administration (50, 100, or 200 mg/kg, daily) against photoaging in HR-1 hairless mice was assessed by measuring wrinkle depth, epidermal thickness, and trans-epidermal water loss for 16 weeks. The PGL treatment group showed reduced skin wrinkles, inhibited MMP-2 and MMP-9 expression, and decreased IL-6 and cyclooxygenase-2 levels. These data suggest that oral PGL administration inhibits photoaging by inhibiting the expression of MMPs, which degrade collagen, and inhibiting cytokines, which induce inflammatory responses. These results reveal that ginseng leaves processed by acid reaction may serve as potential functional materials with anti-photoaging activities.

Effect of anti-skin disorders of ginsenosides- A Systematic Review

Ginsenosides are bioactive components of Panax ginseng with many functions such as anti-aging, anti-oxidation, anti-inflammatory, anti-fatigue, and anti-tumor. Ginsenosides are categorized into dammarane, oleanene, and ocotillol type tricyclic triterpenoids based on the aglycon structure. Based on the sugar moiety linked to C-3, C-20, and C-6, C-20, dammarane type was divided into protopanaxadiol (PPD) and protopanaxatriol (PPT). The effects of ginsenosides on skin disorders are noteworthy. They play anti-aging roles by enhancing immune function, resisting melanin formation, inhibiting oxidation, and elevating the concentration of collagen and hyaluronic acid. Thus, ginsenosides have previously been widely used to resist skin diseases and aging. This review details the role of ginsenosides in the anti-skin aging process from mechanisms and experimental research.

New Insights into the Dermocosmetic Potential of the Red Seaweed Gelidium corneum

This work addresses the potential of the red seaweed Gelidium corneum as a source of bioactive ingredients for skin health and wellness in response to the growing awareness regarding the significance of sustainable strategies in developing new nature-based dermocosmetic products. Hydroalcoholic extracts from the dried biomass were subjected to sequential liquid-liquid partitions, affording five different fractions (F1-F5). Their cosmetic potential was assessed through a set of in vitro assays concerning their antioxidant, photoprotective, and healing properties. Additionally, their cytotoxicity in HaCaT cells and their capacity to induce inflammation in RAW 264.7 cells were also evaluated. As a proof-of-concept, O/W emulsions were prepared, and emulsion stability was assessed by optical microscopy, droplet size analysis, centrifugation tests, and rheology analysis. Furthermore, in vivo tests were conducted with the final formulation to assess its antioxidant capacity. At subtoxic concentrations, the most lipophilic fraction has provided photoprotection against UV light-induced photooxidation in HaCaT cells. This was conducted together with the aqueous fraction, which also displayed healing capacities. Regarding the physical and stability assays, the best performance was achieved with the formulation containing 1% aqueous extract, which exhibited water retention and antioxidant properties in the in vivo assay. In summary, Gelidium corneum displayed itself as a potential source of bioactive ingredients with multitarget properties for dermatological use.

Comparative Study of Cytotoxicity and Antioxidant, Anti-Aging and Antibacterial Properties of Unfermented and Fermented Extract of Cornus mas L

Due to the high demand for products that can help treat various skin conditions, the interest in plant extracts, which are a valuable source of phytochemicals, is constantly growing. In this work, the properties of extracts and ferments from Cornus mas L. and their potential use in cosmetic products were compared. For this purpose, their composition, antioxidant properties and cytotoxicity against skin cells, keratinocytes and fibroblasts were assessed in vitro. In addition, the ability to inhibit the activity of collagenase and elastase was compared, which enabled the assessment of their potential to inhibit skin aging. Microbiological analyses carried out on different bacterial strains were made in order to compare their antibacterial properties. The conducted analyses showed that both dogwood extract and ferment have antioxidant and anti-aging properties. In addition, they can have a positive effect on the viability of keratinocytes and fibroblasts and inhibit the proliferation of various pathogenic bacteria, which indicates their great potential as ingredients in skin care preparations. The stronger activity of the ferment compared to the extract indicates the legitimacy of carrying out the fermentation process of plant raw materials using kombucha in order to obtain valuable products for the cosmetics industry.

Vegetable as a Source of Bioactive Compounds with Photoprotective Properties: Implication in the Aging Process

The skin, as an external organ, protects the entire body against harmful external factors. One of these factors is ultraviolet (UV) radiation, which in excessive amounts can lead to premature skin aging, DNA damage, and even skin cancer. Therefore, it is worth supporting skin protection not only with commercially available preparations, but also with a proper diet. Consuming certain vegetables and applying them topically may reduce the effects of UV radiation. The aim of the review was to collect information on the effects of vegetables and their compounds on the skin when used externally or included in the diet. This review summarizes studies on vegetables, such as broccoli, cucumber, kale, tomato, and carrot, which have shown significant activity in skin photoprotection. Additionally, it outlines the bioactive substances present in these vegetables and their effects.

Synergistic Effects of Vitis vinifera L. and Centella asiatica against CCl4-Induced Liver Injury in Mice

Liver injury can be acute or chronic, resulting from a variety of factors, including viral hepatitis, drug overdose, idiosyncratic drug reaction, or toxins, while the progression of pathogenesis in the liver rises due to the involvement of numerous cytokines and growth factor mediators. Thus, the identification of more effective biomarker-based active phytochemicals isolated from medicinal plants is a promising strategy to protect against CCl₄-induced liver injury. Vitis vinifera L. (VE) and Centella asiatica (CE) are well-known medicinal plants that possess anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties. However, synergism between the two has not previously been studied. Here, we investigated the synergistic effects of a V. vinifera L. (VE) leaf, C. asiatica (CE) extract combination (VCEC) against CCl₄-induced liver injury. Acute liver injury was induced by a single intraperitoneal administration of CCl₄ (1 mL/kg). VCEC was administered orally for three consecutive days at various concentrations (100 and 200 mg/kg) prior to CCl₄ injection. The extent of liver injury and the protective effects of VCEC were evaluated by biochemical analysis and histopathological studies. Oxidative stress was evaluated by measuring malondialdehyde (MDA) and glutathione (GSH) levels and Western blotting. VCEC treatment significantly reduced serum transaminase levels (AST and ALT), tumor necrosis factor-α (TNF-α), and reactive oxygen species (ROS). CCl₄- induced apoptosis was inhibited by VCEC treatment by reducing cleaved caspase-3 and Bcl2-associated X protein (Bax). VCEC-treated mice significantly restored cytochrome P450 2E1, nuclear factor erythroid 2-related factor 2 (Nrf2), and heme oxygenase-1 (HO-1) expression in CCl4-treated mice. In addition, VCEC downregulated overexpression of proinflammatory cytokines and hepatic nuclear factor kappa B (NF-κB) and inhibited CCl4-mediated apoptosis. Collectively, VCEC exhibited synergistic protective effects against liver injury through its antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and antiapoptotic ability against oxidative stress, inflammation, and apoptosis. Therefore, VCEC appears promising as a potential therapeutic agent for CCl₄-induced acute liver injury in mice.

Sacha inchi albumin delays skin-aging by alleviating inflammation, oxidative stress and regulating gut microbiota in d-galactose induced-aging mice

BACKGROUND

Sacha inchi albumin exhibits considerable functional activity with notable anti-inflammatory and antioxidation properties, which could delay skin aging. However, its underlying mechanisms for delaying skin aging have not been elucidated. The aim of the present study was to investigate the anti-skin-aging effect of sacha inchi albumin (SIA) in d-galactose induced-aging mice.

RESULTS

Sacha inchi albumin improved moisture content, collagen level, and the state of aged skin in rats. Sacha inchi albumin intervention markedly increased the skin antioxidant enzymatic activities including those of glutathione peroxidase, and catalase, but decreased the malondialdehyde content. It also regulated inflammation by reducing the level of tumor necrosis factor-α (TNF-α) and increasing the level of interleukin-6 (IL-6). Administration of SIA also increased the expression level of collagen I and III, increased the expression of tissue inhibitor of metalloprotease-1, and decreased the expression of metalloproteinases. Sacha inchi albumin can also activate the transforming growth factor-β (TGF-β)/Smad pathway. Meanwhile, 16S rRNA sequencing analysis revealed that SIA treatment altered the composition of microbiota, and increased the relative abundance of Lactobacillus, but decreased the relative abundance of Alloprevotella and Helicobacter, etc. Helicobacter was positively associated with malondialdehyde (MDA) content and was negatively related to IL-6.

CONCLUSION

Sacha inchi albumin exhibits excellent anti-skin-aging effect, which provide a new insight for the development of functional sacha inchi albumin. © 2023 Society of Chemical Industry.

Skin Microbiota and the Cosmetic Industry

Skin harbors an important microbial ecosystem - the skin microbiota that is in homeostasis with its host and is beneficial for human health. Cosmetic products have the potential to interfere with this microbial community; therefore their impact should be assessed. The aim of this review is to highlight the importance of skin microbiota in the cosmetic industry. Several studies determined that cosmetic ingredients have the potential to disrupt the skin microbiota equilibrium leading to the development of skin diseases and dysregulation of immune response. These studies led their investigation by using different methodologies and models, concluding that methods must be chosen according to the aim of the study, the skin site to be evaluated, and the target population of the cosmetics. Overall, it is crucial to test the impact of cosmetics in the skin microbiota and to stablish standard procedures, as well as specific criteria that allow to classify a cosmetic product as skin microbiota friendly.

Therapeutic Potential of Bioactive Compounds from Brugmansia suaveolens Bercht. & J. Presl

Brugmansia suaveolens Bercht. & J. Presl has been widely used due to the presence of different bioactive compounds. This review summarizes the latest advances and perspectives of the B. suaveolens plant species; it is a systematic literature review on aspects of botany, traditional uses, phytochemistry, pharmacology, and toxicology as therapeutic potential. In addition, 120 compounds are described, including alkaloids, flavonoids, terpenoids, steroids, amino acids, aromatics, and aliphatics. As for the therapeutic potential, it is described in extracts and compounds in the antitumor, anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, antimicrobial, antispasmodic, anticoagulant, and analgesic aspects, as well as the effects on the central nervous system. The toxicity of the genus stands out, especially the potential for organ toxicity. Therefore, this review evidenced the knowledge related to the traditional use based on the scientific research of Brugmansia suaveolens, highlighting an overview of bioactive compounds and biological and toxicological activities in order to provide a scientific basis for future studies on the value of this species for the development of new natural products.

Microneedle-Assisted Topical Delivery of Idebenone-Loaded Bioadhesive Nanoparticles Protect against UV-Induced Skin Damage

Ultraviolet (UV) radiation can penetrate the basal layer of the skin and induce profound alterations in the underlying dermal tissues, including skin pigmentation, oxidative stress, photoaging, glycation, and skin cancer. Idebenone (IDB), an effective antioxidant that suppresses melanin biosynthesis and glycation, can protect the skin from UV-induced damage, accounting for its use in commercial anti-aging formulations. Ideally, IDB formulations should retain IDB inside the skin for a sufficient period, despite disturbances such as sweating or swimming. Herein, we present an IDB topical formulation based on Tris (tris(hydroxymethyl)-aminomethane)-modified bioadhesive nanoparticles (Tris-BNPs) and microneedle-assisted delivery. We found that Tris-BNPs loaded with IDB (IDB/Tris-BNPs) effectively reached the basal layer of the skin and were retained for at least 4 days with a slow and continuous drug release profile, unlike non-bioadhesive nanoparticles (NNPs) and bioadhesive nanoparticles (BNPs) of similar sizes (ranging from 120-142 nm) and zeta-potentials (above -20 mV), which experienced a significant reduction in concentration within 24 h. Notably, IDB/Tris-BNPs showed superior performance against UV-induced damage relative to IDB/NNPs and IDB/BNPs. This effect was demonstrated by lower levels of reactive oxygen species and advanced glycation end-products in skin tissues, as well as suppressed melanogenesis. Therefore, the proposed IDB delivery strategy provided long-term protective effects against UV-induced skin damage.

Recent Advances in the Microencapsulation of Essential Oils, Lipids, and Compound Lipids through Spray Drying: A Review

In recent decades, the microcapsules of lipids, compound lipids, and essential oils, have found numerous potential practical applications in food, textiles, agricultural products, as well as pharmaceuticals. This article discusses the encapsulation of fat-soluble vitamins, essential oils, polyunsaturated fatty acids, and structured lipids. Consequently, the compiled information establishes the criteria to better select encapsulating agents as well as combinations of encapsulating agents best suited to the types of active ingredient to be encapsulated. This review shows a trend towards applications in food and pharmacology as well as the increase in research related to microencapsulation by the spray drying of vitamins A and E, as well as fish oil, thanks to its contribution of omega 3 and omega 6. There is also an increase in articles in which spray drying is combined with other encapsulation techniques, or modifications to the conventional spray drying system.

Novel Strategy in Searching for Natural Compounds with Anti-Aging and Rejuvenating Potential

We suggest a novel approach for searching natural compounds with anti-aging and rejuvenation potential using cell cultures, with a high potential for the further in vivo applications. The present paper discusses ways of defining age for cell populations with large numbers of cells and suggests a method of assessing how young or old a cell population is based on a cell age profile approach. This approach uses experimental distributions of the cells over the cell cycle stages, acquired using flow cytometry. This paper discusses how such a profile should evolve under homeostatic maintenance of cell numbers in the proliferation niches. We describe promising results from experiments on a commercial substance claiming rejuvenating and anti-aging activity acting upon the cultures of human mononuclear cells and dermal fibroblasts. The chosen substance promotes a shift towards larger proportion of cells in synthesis and proliferation stages, and increases cell culture longevity. Further, we describe promising in vivo testing results of a selected food supplement. Based on the described concept of cell age profile and available test results, a strategy to search for natural compounds with regenerative, anti-aging and rejuvenation potential is suggested and proposed for wider and thorough testing. Proposed methodology of age assessment is rather generic and can be used for quantitative assessment of the anti-aging and rejuvenation potential of different interventions. Further research aimed at the tests of the suggested strategy using more substances and different interventions, and the thorough studies of molecular mechanisms related to the action of the substance used for testing the suggested search methodology, are needed.

Steroids and Fatty Acid Esters from Cyperus sexangularis Leaf and Their Antioxidant, Anti-Inflammatory and Anti-Elastase Properties

Cyperus sexangularis (CS) is a plant in the sedges family (Cyperaceae) that grows abundantly in swampy areas. The leaf sheath of plants in the Cyperus genus are mostly used domestically for mat making, while they are implicated for skin treatment in traditional medicine. The plant was investigated for its phytochemical contents as well as its antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and anti-elastase properties. The n-hexane and dichloromethane leaf extracts were chromatographed on a silica gel column to afford compounds 1-6. The compounds were characterized by nuclear magnetic resonance spectroscopy and mass spectrometry. The inhibitory effect of each compound against 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH), nitric oxide (NO) and ferric ion radicals were determined by standard in vitro antioxidant methods. The in vitro anti-inflammatory response was measured using egg albumin denaturation (EAD) assay, while the anti-elastase activity of each compound in human keratinocyte (HaCaT) cells was also monitored. The compounds were characterized as three steroidal derivatives, stigmasterol (1), 17-(1-methyl-allyl)-hexadecahydro-cyclopenta[a]phenanthrene (2) and β-sitosterol (3), dodecanoic acid (4) and two fatty acid esters, ethyl nonadecanoate (5) and ethyl stearate (6). Stigmasterol (1) exhibited the best biological properties, with IC₅₀ of 38.18 ± 2.30 µg/mL against DPPH, 68.56 ± 4.03 µg/mL against NO and 303.58 ± 10.33 µAAE/mg against Fe³⁺. At 6.25 µg/mL, stigmasterol inhibited EAD by 50%. This activity was lower when compared to diclofenac (standard), which demonstrated 75% inhibition of the protein at the same concentration. Compounds 1, 3, 4 and 5 showed comparable anti-elastase activity with an IC₅₀ ≥ 50 µg/mL, whereas the activity of ursolic acid (standard) was double fold with an IC₅₀ of 24.80 ± 2.60 µg/mL when compared to each of the compounds. In conclusion, this study has identified three steroids (1-3), one fatty acid (4), and two fatty acid esters (5 and 6) in C. sexangularis leaf for the first time. The compounds showed considerable antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and anti-elastase properties. Thus, the findings may serve as a justification for the folkloric use of the plant as a local skin ingredient. It may also serve to validate the biological role of steroids and fatty acid compounds in cosmeceutical formulations.

Characterization and anti-aging effects of Opuntia ficus-indica (L.) Miller extracts in a D-galactose-induced skin aging model

Opuntia ficus-indica (L.) Miller (OFI), belonging to the family Cactaceae, is widely cultivated not only for its delicious fruits but also for its health-promoting effects, which enhance the role of OFI as a potential functional food. In this study, the in vitro collagenase and elastase enzyme inhibitory effects of extracts from different parts of OFI were evaluated. The most promising extracts were formulated as creams at two concentrations (3 and 5%) to investigate their effects on a D-galactose (D-gal)-induced skin-aging mouse model. The ethanolic extracts of the peel and cladodes exhibited the highest enzyme inhibitory effects. Cream made from the extract of OFI peel (OP) (5%) and cream from OFI cladodes extract (OC) (5%) significantly decreased the macroscopic aging of skin scores. Only a higher concentration (5%) of OC showed the normalization of superoxide dismutase (SOD) and malondialdehyde (MDA) skin levels and achieved significant improvements as compared to the vitamin E group. Both OC and OP (5%) showed complete restoration of the normal skin structure and nearly normal collagen fibres upon histopathological examination. The Ultra-Performance Liquid Chromatography High Resolution Mass Spectrometry (UHPLC-ESI-TOF-MS) metabolite profiles revealed the presence of organic acids, phenolic acids, flavonoids, betalains, and fatty acids. Flavonoids were the predominant phytochemical class (23 and 22 compounds), followed by phenolic acids (14 and 17 compounds) in the ethanolic extracts from the peel and cladodes, respectively. The anti-skin-aging effects could be attributed to the synergism of different phytochemicals in both extracts. From these findings, the OFI peel and cladodes as agro-waste products are good candidates for anti-skin-aging phytocosmetics.

Biochemical and antioxidant activity of wild edible fruits of the eastern Himalaya, India

The eastern Himalayas, one of the important hotspots of global biodiversity, have a rich diversity of wild edible fruit trees. The fruits of these tree species have been consumed by the tribal people since time immemorial. However, there is limited information available on the biochemical and antioxidant properties of the fruits. Therefore, the present investigation was undertaken to study the physico-chemical and antioxidant properties of the nine most important wild fruit trees. Among the species, Pyrus pashia had the maximum fruit weight (37.83 g), while the highest juice (43.72%) and pulp content (84.67%) were noted in Haematocarpus validus and Myrica esculenta, respectively. Maximum total soluble solids (18.27%), total sugar (11.27%), moisture content (88.39%), ascorbic acid content (63.82 mg/100 g), total carotenoids (18.47 mg/100 g), and total monomeric anthocyanin (354.04 mg/100 g) were recorded in H. validus. Docynia indica had the highest total phenolic content (19.37 mg GAE/g), while H. validus recorded the highest total flavonoids and flavanol content. The antioxidant activities of the different fruits ranged from 0.17 to 0.67 IC50 for DPPH activity and 3.59-13.82 mg AAE/g for FRAP. These fruits had attractive pigmentation of both pulp and juice and were a good potential source for the extraction of natural edible color in the food industry. The fruits also possess high market prices; Prunus nepalensis fetched $ 34.10-$ 141.5 per tree. Therefore, these fruits are rich sources of antioxidants, pigments and have a high market value for livelihood and nutritional security.

In Vitro Evaluation of Antioxidant and Protective Potential of Kombucha-Fermented Black Berry Extracts against H2O2-Induced Oxidative Stress in Human Skin Cells and Yeast Model

The fruits of R. nigrum L., A. melanocarpa Michx., and V. myrtillus L. are well-known natural plant materials with proven antioxidant activity. This work attempts to compare the antioxidant properties of extracts of these plants and ferments obtained during their fermentation using a consortium of microorganisms referred to as kombucha. As part of the work, a phytochemical analysis of extracts and ferments was carried out using the UPLC-MS method and the content of the main components was determined. The antioxidant properties of the tested samples and their cytotoxicity were assessed with the use of DPPH and ABTS radicals. The protective effect against hydrogen peroxide-induced oxidative stress was also assessed. The possibility of inhibiting the increase in the intracellular level of reactive oxygen species was carried out on both human skin cells (keratinocytes and fibroblasts) and the yeast Saccharomyces cerevisiae (wild-type strains and sod1Δ deletion mutants). The conducted analyses showed that the ferments obtained are characterized by a greater variety of biologically active compounds; in most cases they do not cause a cytotoxic effect, show strong antioxidant properties, and can reduce oxidative stress in both human and yeast cells. This effect depends on the concentration used and the fermentation time. The results obtained indicate that the tested ferments can be considered as an extremely valuable raw material protecting cells against the negative effects of oxidative stress.

The anti-aging, anti-tuberculosis and antioxidant potential benefits of Saudi Arabia Olea-Europaea Leaves extracts

The olive leaf extract and olive leaf indicated a high potential for application in food additives and foodstuffs. It could be these bio-products useful and important in condition therapy related with oxidative stress and can use it to develop functional foods and to improve the food's shelf life. The olive leaf chemical composition of Oleaeuropaea L. grown from eljouf in Saudi Arabia, using solvents of increasing polarity cyclohexane, dichloromethane, chloroform, ethyl acetate, methanol and ethanol was determined using by GC/MS. Furthermore, the antioxidant activity (diphenylpicrylhydrazyl (DPPH), anti-aging, and anti-tuberculosis of olive leaf extracts were evaluated. The results indicated that extract of Oleaeuropaea L. has a considerable contains in polyphenols (hydroxytyrosol, oleuropein and their derivatives) regarding its antioxidant effects, the major components were detected by GC/MS in Olea dichloromethane extract are Hexadecanoic acid (15.82%), 7(4Dimethylaminophenyl)3,3,12trimethyl3,12dihydro6 Hpyrano[2,3c]acridin 6 one (11.21%), and in Olea chloroform extract are Hexatriacontane (12.68%), nTetratr iacontane (10.95%). The results concluded that the plant extract of chloroform showed no anti-aging activities and the lower anti-aging activities for cyclohexane extract, while, the Olea dichloromethane extract was the most active extract. The obtained data confirmed that the most active extract of anti-tubercolisis was for chloroform and ethyl acetate extract, while, anti-tubercolisis activity of ethanolic extract was the lower. The extract amount as well as the solvent polarity influence the inhibitory activity. A favorable connection was demonstrated inter alia the leaf extracts antioxidant activity and the content of total phenol.

Antioxidant and Anti-Inflammatory Activities of Sargassum macrocarpum Extracts

Oxidative stress and the inflammatory response are known to be the most important pathological factors for aging skin cells. Therefore, substances that protect skin cells from oxidative stress and inflammatory reactions of the skin have potential as functional ingredients for skin care. In the present study, we investigated the potential of Sargassum macrocarpum as an anti-inflammatory candidate for inflammatory skin disease. Antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activities are desirable properties in such functional materials. The total polyphenol content as well as antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activities were evaluated in hot-water (HES) and ethanol (EES) extracts of S. macrocarpum. The polyphenol content was higher in the HES (HES: 115.9 ± 15.3 mg GA/g, EES: 3.9 ± 0.5 mg GA/g), and the HES also had ABTS (HES: IC₅₀ 1.0 ± 0.0 mg/mL, EES: IC₅₀ 16.09 ± 0.7 mg/mL) and DPPH (HES: IC₅₀ 6.50 ± 0.3 mg/mL, EES: IC₅₀ 35.3 ± 3.1 mg/mL) radical scavenging capacities as well as FRAP activity (HES: IC₅₀ 18.8 ± 0.4 mg/mL, EES: IC₅₀ n.d.). Compared with the EES at the equivalent concentration range (1.25-20 μg/mL), the HES exerted a more potent inhibitory activity on LPS-stimulated nitric oxide (10.3-43.1%), IL-6 (15.7-45.0%), and TNF-α (14.1-20.8%) in RAW 264.7 macrophage cells in addition to TNF-α and IFN-γ-facilitated IL-6 (10.9-84.1%) and IL-8 (7.7-73.2%) in HaCaT keratinocytes. These results suggested that water-soluble materials might be deeply involved in the antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activity in S. macrocarpum. General composition analysis indicated that the HES contains more carbohydrates and polyphenols than the EES, and the monosaccharide composition analysis suggested that fucose-containing sulfated polysaccharide and β-glucan might be potent anti-inflammatory candidates in the HES. The present study presents important preliminary results and a valuable strategy for developing novel anti-skin dermatitis candidates using a hot-water extract of S. macrocarpum.

Rosmarinus officinalis extract-loaded emulgel prevents UVB irradiation damage to the skin

UVB-irradiation increases the risk of various skin disorders, therefore leading to inflammation and oxidative stress. In this sense, antioxidant-rich herbs such as Rosmarinus officinalis may be useful in minimizing the damage promoted by reactive oxygen species. In this work, we report the efficacy of a R. officinalis hydroethanolic extract (ROe)-loaded emulgel in preventing UVB-related skin damage. Total phenols were determined using Folin-Ciocalteu assay, and the main phytocomponents in the extract were identified by UHPLC-HRMS. Moreover, in vitro sun protection factor (SPF) value of ROe was also assessed, and we investigated the in vivo protective effect of an emulgel containing ROe against UVB-induced damage in an animal model. The ROe exhibited commercially viable SPF activity (7.56 ± 0.16) and remarkable polyphenolic content (24.15 ± 0.11 mg (Eq.GA)/g). HPLC-MS and UHPLC-HRMS results showcased that the main compounds in ROe were: rosmarinic acid, carnosic acid and carnosol. The evaluation of the in vitro antioxidant activity demonstrated a dose-dependent effect of ROe against several radicals and the capacity to reduce iron. Therefore, we demonstrated that topical application of the formulation containing ROe inhibited edema formation, myeloperoxidase activity, GSH depletion and maintained ferric reducing (FRAP) and ABTS scavenging abilities of the skin after UVB exposure.

Protective Effect of Bifidobacterium animalis subs. lactis MG741 as Probiotics against UVB-Exposed Fibroblasts and Hairless Mice

Skin photoaging, which causes wrinkles, increased epidermal thickness, and rough skin texture, is induced by ultraviolet B (UVB) exposure. These symptoms by skin photoaging have been reported to be involved in the reduction of collagen by the expression of matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs) and activator protein-1 (AP-1). This study investigated the protective effects of Bifidobacterium animalis subsp. lactis MG741 (Bi. lactis MG741) in Hs-68 fibroblasts and hairless mice (HR-1) following UVB exposure. We demonstrated that the Bi. lactis MG741 reduces wrinkles and skin thickness by downregulating MMP-1 and MMP-3, phosphorylation of extracellular signal-regulated kinase (ERK), and c-FOS in fibroblasts and HR-1. Additionally, in UVB-irradiated dorsal skin of HR-1, Bi. lactis MG741 inhibits the expression of nuclear factor kappa-light-chain-enhancer of activated B cells (NF-κB), an inflammation-related factor. Thus, Bi. lactis MG741 has the potential to prevent wrinkles and skin inflammation by modulating skin photoaging markers.