Sunscreens Inadequately Protect Against Ultraviolet-A-Induced Free Radicals in Skin: Implications for Skin Aging and Melanoma?

New trends on personalized sunscreens

BACKGROUND/PURPOSE

Nowadays, there are emerging trends in customized and personalized photoprotection, focusing on the innovative approaches to enhance sun protection efficacy tailored to individual needs.

METHODS

We conducted an electronic search of the following databases: MEDLINE, EMBASE, Cochrane Database of Systematic Reviews, Cochrane Skin Group Specialised Skin Register, and TESEO. Specific search terms related to personalized photoprotection and the variables of age, genetic predisposition, skin phototype, photodermatosis, and physiological conditions such as pregnancy, as well as lifestyle habits were used.

RESULTS/CONCLUSION

The article highlights the challenges and opportunities in adopting personalized photoprotection strategies, aiming to promote skin health and prevent the harmful effects of UV radiation in the era of precision medicine.

Investigating the efficacy of topical application of Ipomoea carnea herbal cream in preventing skin damage induced by UVB radiation in a rat model

Ultraviolet-B irradiation is a common environmental stressor that has detrimental effects on human skin. Natural sunscreens are well-known for their ability to benefit inflamed sunburn and dry skin. This study examined the effect of formulated Ipomoea carnea herbal cream on UVB-induced skin damage. We screened the bioactive compounds of I. carnea crude extract, showing significant antioxidant activity. Additionally, we evaluated the cytotoxicity, revealing that I. carnea extract has less toxicity to vero cells (IC50 98.45 μg/mL) than to A375 cells (IC50 48.95 μg/mL). Based on this, we formulated the I. carnea herbal cream (FIHC) at 50, 100 and 200 mg concentrations and evaluated its organoleptic characteristics. Then, the rats were exposed to UVB radiation (32,800 J/m2) four times/week (on alternate days) before the cream was applied topically to the dorsal skin surface. Under UVB stress without treatment, rats showed deep dermal damage. In contrast, rats treated with the FIHC exhibited significantly reduced sunburn. Moreover, the histopathological and biochemical assays were confirmed by the topical application of FIHC, which had potentially reduced the skin elasticity and maintained the imbalanced enzyme and non-enzymatic antioxidant activity. Our findings amply demonstrate that the FIHC significantly accelerated the recovery of UVB-induced lesions through antioxidant and down-regulation of skin photodamage.

An immunomodulating peptide to counteract solar radiation-induced immunosuppression and DNA damage

Ultraviolet radiation (UVR) induces immunosuppression and DNA damage, both of which contribute to the rising global incidence of skin cancer including melanoma. Nucleotide excision repair, which is activated upon UVR-induced DNA damage, is linked to expression of interleukin-12 (IL-12) which serves to limit immunosuppression and augment the DNA repair process. Herein, we report an immunomodulating peptide, designated IK14800, that not only elicits secretion of IL-12, interleukin-2 (IL-2) and interferon-gamma (IFN-γ) but also reduces DNA damage in the skin following exposure to UVR. Combined with re-invigoration of exhausted CD4+ T cells, inhibition of UVR-induced MMP-1 release and suppression of B16F10 melanoma metastases, IK14800 offers an opportunity to gain further insight into mechanisms underlying the development and progression of skin cancers.

Acetyl Zingerone: A Photostable Multifunctional Skincare Ingredient That Combats Features of Intrinsic and Extrinsic Skin Aging

The cumulative damage skin sustains from exposure to environmental stressors throughout life exerts significant effects on skin aging and cancer development. One of the main ways by which environmental stressors mediate their effects within skin is through induction of reactive oxygen species (ROS). In this review, we chronicle the multiple properties by which acetyl zingerone (AZ) as a skincare ingredient can benefit skin (1) by helping manage overproduction of ROS through multiple routes as an antioxidant, physical quencher and selective chelator, (2) by fortifying protection after UV exposure ends to prevent the type of epidermal DNA damage that correlates with development of skin cancer, (3) by modulating matrisome activity and nurturing the integrity of the extracellular matrix (ECM) within the dermis and (4) through its proficient ability to neutralize singlet oxygen, by stabilizing the ascorbic acid precursor tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate (THDC) in the dermal microenvironment. This activity improves THDC bioavailability and may blunt pro-inflammatory effects of THDC, such as activation of type I interferon signaling. Moreover, AZ is photostable and can sustain its properties during UV exposure, in contrast to α-tocopherol. All these properties of AZ translate into measurable clinical benefits to improve the visual appearance of photoaged facial skin and to strengthen the skin's own defenses against sun damage.

Photoaging: Reversal of the Oxidative Stress Through Dietary Changes and Plant-Based Products

Redox flagging represents all life processes, and maintaining a physiological level of antioxidants is essential for the legitimate working of the cell. Genetics and environmental triggers are two major culminating factors for skin aging, both chronological and photoaging. The latter, however, relies principally upon the level of ultraviolet radiation (UVR) exposure and the skin phototype. Apart from causing DNA damage, UVR also stimulates the receptors present in keratinocytes as well as fibroblasts. This in turn leads to the breakdown of collagen and a breach in the generation of new collagen. It is speculated that the breakdown of collagen in the dermis is ensured by the defective restoration that ultimately hampers the structural integrity of skin, leading to wrinkled and atrophic skin. The skin has an admixture of various endogenous antioxidants that work synergistically with vitamins and minerals to maintain cellular equilibrium. Although, their role in safeguarding the cells against the detrimental effects induced by UVR is still questionable and requires further research. However, the advancement in the biology of skin has led to the development of strategies that aim at skin rejuvenation and retarding the progression of photoaging and its visible signs. Photoaging in this article is reviewed in light of current concepts in pathogenesis and its prevention. In addition, the article focuses on both prevailing and forthcoming treatment strategies primarily through plant-based products that will help slow down the process of photoaging.

Enamel and Dentin Etching with Glycolic, Ferulic, and Phosphoric Acids: Demineralization Pattern, Surface Microhardness, and Bond Strength Stability

This study evaluated the etching pattern, surface microhardness, and bond strength for enamel and dentin submitted to treatment with phosphoric, glycolic, and ferulic acids. Enamel and dentin blocks were treated with phosphoric, glycolic, and ferulic acid to evaluate the surface and adhesive interface by scanning electron microscopy (2000×). Surface microhardness (Knoop) was evaluated before and after etching, and microtensile bond strength was evaluated after application of a two-step adhesive system (Adper Single Bond 2, 3M ESPE) at 24 hours and 12 months storage time points. Analysis of variance (ANOVA) and Tukey's test showed a decrease in the microhardness values for both substrates after application of each acid (p<0.0001). The reduction percentage was significantly higher for enamel treated with phosphoric acid (59.9%) and glycolic acid (65.1%) than for ferulic acid (16.5%) (p<0.0001), and higher for dentin that received phosphoric acid (38.3%) versus glycolic acid (27.8%) and ferulic acid (21.9%) (p<0.0001). Phosphoric and glycolic acids led to homogeneous enamel demineralization, and promoted the opening of dentinal tubules, whereas ferulic acid led to enamel surface demineralization and partially removed the smear layer. The adhesive-enamel interface showed micromechanical embedding of the adhesive in the interprismatic spaces when phosphoric and glycolic acids were applied. Ferulic acid showed no tag formation. Microtensile bond strength at both time points, and for both substrates, was lower with ferulic acid (p=0.0003/E; p=0.0011/D; Kruskal Wallis and Dunn). The bond strength for enamel and dentin decreased when using phosphoric and glycolic acids at the 12-month time evaluation (p<0.05). Glycolic acid showed an etching pattern and microhardness similar to that of phosphoric acid. Ferulic acid was not effective in etching the enamel or dentin, and it did not provide satisfactory bond strength to dental substrates.

Oleracone C from Portulaca oleracea attenuates UVB-induced changes in matrix metalloproteinase and type I procollagen production via MAPK and TGF-β/Smad pathways in human keratinocytes

BACKGROUND

Chronic exposure to ultraviolet (UV) radiation induces photo-oxidation, which in turn causes the overproduction of matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs) and collagen degradation. These symptoms are referred to as photoaging, which is characterized by skin thickness, irregular pigmentation, elastosis and coarse wrinkles. In this study, the protective effects of oleracone C isolated from Portulaca olerace against UVB-induced changes in MMPs and type I procollagen production were investigated in human keratinocytes.

METHODS

Human immortalized keratinocytes have been used as an in vitro cell model to study the abnormal skin barrier development such as in photoaging. The effects of the compound on cell viability were determined by colorimetric MTT assay. This study also measured ROS production using DCFH-DA assay. Releases of MMPs and type Iα1 procollagen were analysed by ELISA. RT-PCR and Western blot were carried out to test the expressions of mRNA and proteins related to MMPs and type I procollagen biosynthesis.

RESULT

Effect of oleracone C against UVB-mediated oxidative stress was evaluated measuring its ability to eliminate UVB-induced activation of reactive oxygen species (ROS). Treatment of oleracone C hindered the production of intracellular ROS. UVB exposure increased MMPs (MMP-1, MMP-2 and MMP-9) release from keratinocytes and decreased the release of type I procollagen. Treatment with oleracone C reversed these effects of UVB exposure. Oleracone C treatment also diminished the intracellular expression of MMP-1, MMP-2 and MMP-9 and elevated the type I procollagen. Oleracone C suppressed the UVB irradiation-dependent upregulation phosphorylation of p38 and ERK1/2 in the mitogen-activated protein kinase (MAPK) pathway. Furthermore, oleracone C stimulated collagen production through the TGF-β signalling pathway, which activates collagen synthesis in UVB-irradiated keratinocytes.

CONCLUSION

These findings reasonably suggest ameliorating the potential of oleracone C against the UVB-induced photoaging of the human keratinocytes.

First evidence of dermo-protective activity of marine sulfur-containing histidine compounds

Among natural products, ovothiol (ovo), produced by marine invertebrates, bacteria, and microalgae, is receiving increasing interest for its unique antioxidant properties. Recently, ovo has been shown to exhibit anti-inflammatory activity in an in vitro model of endothelial dysfunction and in an in vivo model of liver fibrosis. The aim of this study was to evaluate the effect of ovo and its precursor 5-thiohistidine (5-thio) in comparison with ergothioneine (erg), in human skin cells and tissues upon inflammation. We used both an in vitro and ex vivo model of human skin, represented by a keratinocytes cell line (HaCaT) and skin biopsies, respectively. We observed that ovo, 5-thio, and erg were not cytotoxic in HaCaT cells, but instead exerted a protective function against TNF-α -induced inflammation. In order to get insights on their mechanism of action, we performed western blot analysis of ERK and JNK, as well as sub-cellular localization of Nrf2, a key mediator of the anti-inflammatory response. The results indicated that the pre-treatment with ovo, 5-thio, and erg differently affected the phosphorylation of ERK and JNK. However, all the three molecules promoted the accumulation of Nrf2 in the nucleus of HaCaT cells. In addition, gene expression analysis by RTqPCR and ELISA assays performed in ex vivo human skin tissues pre-treated with thiohistidines and then inflamed with IL-1β revealed a significant downregulation of IL-8, TNF-α and COX-2 genes and a concomitant significant decrease in the cytokines IL-6, IL-8 and TNF-α production. Moreover, the protective action of ovo and 5-thio resulted to be stronger when compared with dexamethasone, a corticosteroid drug currently used to treat skin inflammatory conditions. Our findings suggest that ovo and 5-thio can ameliorate skin damage and may be used to develop natural skin care products to prevent the inflammatory status induced by environmental stressors and aging.

Ultraviolet Light Protection: Is It Really Enough?

Our current understanding of the pathogenesis of skin aging includes the role of ultraviolet light, visible light, infrared, pollution, cigarette smoke and other environmental exposures. The mechanism of action common to these exposures is the disruption of the cellular redox balance by the directly or indirectly increased formation of reactive oxygen species that overwhelm the intrinsic antioxidant defense system, resulting in an oxidative stress condition. Altered redox homeostasis triggers downstream pathways that contribute to tissue oxinflammation (cross-talk between inflammation and altered redox status) and accelerate skin aging. In addition, both ultraviolet light and pollution increase intracellular free iron that catalyzes reactive oxygen species generation via the Fenton reaction. This disruption of iron homeostasis within the cell further promotes oxidative stress and contributes to extrinsic skin aging. More recent studies have demonstrated that iron chelators can be used topically and can enhance the benefits of topically applied antioxidants. Thus, an updated, more comprehensive approach to environmental or atmospheric aging protection should include sun protective measures, broad spectrum sunscreens, antioxidants, chelating agents, and DNA repair enzymes.

Amorphous and crystalline cerium(IV) phosphates: biocompatible ROS-scavenging sunscreens

This paper reports on a comprehensive study of the UV-shielding properties (namely, the sun protection factor and the factor of protection against UV-A radiation) and cytotoxicity (including photocytotoxicity) of amorphous and crystalline cerium(IV) phosphates. It has been shown that cerium(IV) phosphate NH₄Ce₂(PO₄)₃ is characterised by UV-shielding properties that are comparable to those of nanocrystalline TiO₂ and CeO₂. Moreover, cerium(IV) phosphates did not show toxicity towards cell cultures of NCTC L929 line mouse fibroblasts and human mesenchymal stem cells, in a wide range of concentrations, and even enhanced the proliferative activity of the latter. In a model study of the photoprotective properties of cerium(IV) phosphates on human mesenchymal stem cells, the pronounced protective effect of NH₄Ce₂(PO₄)₃ was observed, which was comparable to the shielding action of nanocrystalline CeO₂. The results have shown that tetravalent cerium phosphates can be considered as promising UV-filters for sunscreen applications.

Potential of Olive Oil Mill Wastewater as a Source of Polyphenols for the Treatment of Skin Disorders: A Review

Current trends toward naturally occurring compounds of therapeutic interest have contributed to an increasing number of studies on olive oil phenolics in the treatment of diseases with oxidative and inflammatory origins. Recent focus has been on olive oil wastewater, which is richer in phenolic compounds than olive oil itself. In this review, we present findings demonstrating the potential use of olive mill wastewater in dermatology. Particular attention is given to compounds with proven benefits in topical pharmacology: caffeic and ferulic acids, tyrosol and hydroxytyrosol, verbascoside, and oleuropein. The review is divided into different sections: inflammatory skin diseases, microbial effects, wound healing in addition to the antimelanoma properties of olive mill waste phenolics, and their potential in sun protection agents. There is strong evidence to support further studies into the valorization of this abundant and sustainable source of phenolic compounds for use in dermatology and dermo-cosmetic preparations.

Mechanistic aspects of carotenoid health benefits - where are we now?

Dietary intake and tissue levels of carotenoids have been associated with a reduced risk of several chronic diseases, including cardiovascular diseases, type 2 diabetes, obesity, brain-related diseases and some types of cancer. However, intervention trials with isolated carotenoid supplements have mostly failed to confirm the postulated health benefits. It has thereby been speculated that dosing, matrix and synergistic effects, as well as underlying health and the individual nutritional status plus genetic background do play a role. It appears that our knowledge on carotenoid-mediated health benefits may still be incomplete, as the underlying mechanisms of action are poorly understood in relation to human relevance. Antioxidant mechanisms - direct or via transcription factors such as NRF2 and NF-κB - and activation of nuclear hormone receptor pathways such as of RAR, RXR or also PPARs, via carotenoid metabolites, are the basic principles which we try to connect with carotenoid-transmitted health benefits as exemplified with described common diseases including obesity/diabetes and cancer. Depending on the targeted diseases, single or multiple mechanisms of actions may play a role. In this review and position paper, we try to highlight our present knowledge on carotenoid metabolism and mechanisms translatable into health benefits related to several chronic diseases.

Influence of Caralluma adscendens Var. attenuata cold cream on UV-B damaged skin epidermal cells: a novel approach

Ultraviolet radiation-induced sunburns are characterized by pigmented, wrinkled, and dried skin, with rashes and red spots. Chemical sunscreen lotion shows beneficial effects, but it shows the adverse side effect while in continuous usage. Natural substances of plant origin are deemed a possible cause of UV radiation through sunscreen resources. On this basis, we formulated the cold cream from the Caralluma adscendens Var. attenuata (CAVA) plant extract. The phytocompounds were studied by using GC-MS. The antioxidant potential of the plant extract was determined, and the CAVA showed cytotoxicity on A375 skin melanoma cells determined by MTT assay. The FT-IR spectra analysis confirmed the chemical nature of crude and crosslinking between cold creams. The cream was applied topically to rats pre-exposed to UV-B radiation (32,800 J/m2) four times/week (on alternate days). UV-B exposed without any treatment rats showed increased red spots or wrinkles (5 cm2). In contrast, the cold cream treatment application on irradiated skin has significantly reduced the size of rashes and red spots and the wound was contracted in a dose-dependent manner. Furthermore, histopathology of the experimental rat skin confirmed that CAVA cream treatment significantly reduced the epidermal thickening, damage in dermis and epidermis layers, and restructured the hair follicles. This study suggests that the cream formulated using CAVA can alleviate the damages caused by the UV-B-irradiation at a high level and safeguard the skin tissues.

SUPPLEMENTARY INFORMATION

The online version contains supplementary material available at 10.1007/s13205-021-02694-y.

Current developments in the nanomediated delivery of photoprotective phytochemicals

Natural products have been used to protect the skin from harmful UV radiation for decades. Due to the ecotoxicological implications of synthetic sunscreen exposure in aquatic ecosystems, there is a greater need to explore alternative sources of UV filters. Recent research has focused on discovering novel UV absorbing photoprotective molecules from nature. In response to the excessive damage caused by UVB rays, plants induce the production of high concentrations of phytoprotective secondary metabolites and anti-oxidative enzymes. Despite promising UV absorbing and photoprotective properties, plant secondary metabolites have been underutilized in topical delivery due to low solubility and high instability. Numerous phytochemicals have been effectively nanosized, incorporated in formulations, and studied for their sustained effects in photoprotection. The present review outlines recent developments in nanosizing and delivering photoprotective crude plant extract and phytochemicals from a phytochemical perspective. We searched for articles using keywords: "UV damage," "skin photoprotection," "photodamage," and "nano delivery" in varied combinations. We identified and reviewed literature from 43 original research articles exploring nanosized phytochemicals and crude plant extracts with photoprotective activity. Nanosized phytochemicals retained higher amounts of bioactive compounds in the skin and acted as depots for their sustained release. Novel approaches in nanosizing considerably improved the photostability, efficacy, and water resistance of plant secondary metabolites. We further discuss the need for broad-spectrum sunscreen products, potential challenges, and future growth in this area.

Ex vivo penetration analysis and anti-inflammatory efficacy of the association of ferulic acid and UV filters

BACKGROUND

Unprotected chronic exposure to ultraviolet (UV) radiation generates many harmful effects to human skin and sunscreens are essential to health, however, traditional products do not provide enough protection against cutaneous oxidative stress, a process amplified by UV radiation. Therefore, the development of multifunctional photoprotective formulations seems to be a more efficacious approach, since these enable the absorption/reflection of UV radiation and maintain the cutaneous homeostasis.

OBJECTIVES

In the present study, ferulic acid (FA), a well-known antioxidant, has been combined with two UV filters, bemotrizinol and ethylhexyl triazone, and the safety and efficacy of this formulation has been assessed combining ex vivo and in vivo methods.

METHODS

Skin permeation assays were performed by applying the formulation in the volar forearm of participants, after which consecutive samples of the stratum corneum were collected by tape stripping, and the quantification of FA, bemotrizinol and ethylhexyl triazone was performed by high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC). Also, the FA anti-inflammatory action in combination with the UV filters was probed through a method employing Laser Doppler flowmetry to measure the vasodilatory response to methyl nicotinate topical application.

RESULTS

Skin permeation assay was able to characterize the penetration depth of each substance. It should also be noted that a specific HPLC analytical method was developed in this study to enable the rapid simultaneous quantification of the three substances. Results from Laser Doppler flowmetry showed that the FA was able to mitigate the vasodilatory response.

CONCLUSIONS

FA proved to be a valuable resource in a multifunction sunscreen, not only providing an increase in the SPF of sunscreens, previously published, but also decreasing the extent of inflammation.

Polyethylene glycol functionalized cerium oxide nanoparticle confer protection against UV- induced oxidative damage in skin: evidences for a new class of UV filter

Acute exposure to high dose of ultraviolet (UV) radiations is known to cause significant harm to skin, primarily due to the generation of free radicals and damage to DNA, which often culminate in rapid aging of the skin, or cancers. Keratinocytes being the most abundant skin’s cells are affected most by UV. Although a degree of endogenous protection is present, the vulnerability of UV-induced damaged can be minimized using protective agents. A few UV filters (organic and inorganic) have been successfully commercialized, yet, due to prevailing disadvantages such as low solubility, photostability, and aesthetic sense, suitable and more efficient UV filters continue to be explored as potential ingredients of cosmaceutical agents. A recently studied antioxidant enzyme mimetic cerium oxide nanoparticles showed emerging piece of evidence on benefits under environmental stress. However, its protective abilities as potential UV filter and therefore applicability in cosmaceutical has not yet been completely explored. This study provides a piece of evidence in support of beneficial effects of this new class of UV filters, polyethyleneglycol functionalized nanoceria (PEG-CNP) against UV - induced damage in vitro and in vivo. The nanomolar concentration of PEG-CNPs in the cell culture showed significant protection from UV exposure, by direct ROS scavenging, the rescue of cells from cell cycle arrest and DNA damage. Further, a proof of the concept study in dehaired rat skin showed that the topical application of 50 μM PEG-CNPs prevented the initial signs of UV induced damage. Unlike conventional UV filters, PEG-CNPs confer protection by internalizing the cells, and scavenging the radicals.

Exploring the Potential Use of Hylocereus polyrhizus Peels as a Source of Cosmeceutical Sunscreen Agent for Its Antioxidant and Photoprotective Properties

Currently, consumers' demand for sunscreens derived from natural sources that provide photoprotection from ultraviolet (UV) radiation is pushing the cosmetic industry to develop breakthrough formulations of sun protection products by incorporating plant antioxidants as their active ingredients. In this context, the present study was initiated to evaluate the antioxidant and photoprotective properties of the underutilized Hylocereus polyrhizus peel extract (HPPE) using in vitro spectrophotometric techniques. The phytochemical screenings of HPPE conducted via high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) and ultra-high-performance liquid chromatography-quadrupole time-of-flight mass spectrometry (UPLC-QTOF/MS) revealed the presence of phenolic acids and flavonoids as the major secondary metabolites in HPPE. The antioxidant potentials evaluated based on 2, 2'-azino-bis(3-ethylbenzothiazoline-6-sulfonic acid) (ABTS) radical and total antioxidant capacity assays were in the range of 22.16 ± 0.24%-84.67 ± 0.03% with 50% inhibitory concentration (IC50) of 36.39 ± 0.04 μg/mL and 23.76 ± 0.14%-31.87 ± 0.26% (IC50 = 21.93 ± 0.07 μg/mL), respectively. For the photoprotective evaluation, the results showed that HPPE had significantly high absorbance values (3.1-3.6) at 290-320 nm with an exceptional sun protection factor (SPF) value of 35.02 ± 0.39 at 1.00 mg/mL. HPPE also possessed a broad-spectrum shielding power against both UVA and UVB radiations. Hence, in terms of practical implications, our findings would offer an exciting avenue to develop a photoprotective formulation incorporating the ethanolic extract of Hylocereus polyrhizus peels as a synergistic active ingredient for its excellent UV absorption properties and the strong antioxidant activities.

Protective effect of d-tetramannuronic acid tetrasodium salt on UVA-induced photo-aging in HaCaT cells

UVA radiation from the sun is the main external stimulus in the pathogenesis of skin photo-aging. This process is associated with cellular oxidative stress. Here we aim at showing the protective effect of d-Tetramannuronic Acid Tetrasodium Salt (M4), a natural product, against UVA (30J/cm²) irradiation-induced oxidative stress and photo-aging in HaCaT cells, and to reveal the molecular mechanism underlying the protective efficacy. M4 pretreatment significantly increased HaCaT cell viability and MMP, suppressing UVA-induced ROS generation. Moreover, M4 treatment prevented the UVA-induced photo-aging of HaCaT cells (the reduction of cell viability, mitochondria dysfunction, and SIRT1/pGC-1α deregulation). Notably, the anti-photo-aging potential of M4 was directly associated with the increased expression of MMP and SIRT1, which was followed by the up-regulation of pGC-1α, D-LOOP, and Mt-TFA, and the transcriptional activation of NRF1/NRF2. Therefore, M4 is useful for the protection of skin cells from UVA-induced photo-aging.

Nanostructured lipid carriers: A novel hair protective product preventing hair damage and discoloration from UV radiation and thermal treatment

The goal of this study was to investigate the protective effects of nanostructured lipid carriers (NLCs) and vitamin E loaded NLCs (Vit E-NLCs) on preventing hair damages and discoloration against UV radiation and thermal treatment. The NLCs and Vit E-NLCs were prepared using a high-pressure homogenization technique. At optimal conditions, they showed spherical particles with a mean particle size of ~140 nm and a polydispersity index of < 0.3. Up to 90% (w/w) vitamin E acetate incorporation efficacy was achieved. The protective efficacy of the model cream containing blank-NLCs (NLCs cream) or Vit E-NLCs (Vit E-NLCs cream) was investigated. Upon exposure to UV-light and heat, the FE-SEM images revealed that the hair treated with both NLCs creams showed a smoothness of hair surface similar to the virgin hair. In accordance with protein loss, they exhibited the least protein loss as compared to the hair treated with Vit-E cream, cream base and commercial products. The same trend was observed for the discoloration test, the hair treated with both NLCs creams demonstrated the lowest total color loss, as compared to other products. Comparing between two NLCs formulations, antioxidant Vit E-NLCs showed to promote the photoprotective effect against hair damage and discoloration slightly greater than blank NLCs, but it has no extra benefit for heat protection. Considered overall, the developed NLCs and Vit E-NLCs is a novel alternative for preventing hair damage and discoloration from daily UV and heat exposure.

Sunscreen-induced expression and identification of photosensitive marker proteins in human keratinocytes under UV radiation

Solar ultraviolet (UV) radiation is the main factor of photocarcinogenesis, photoaging, and photosensitivity; thus protection from biological damaging UV radiation is a concern. Sunscreens containing UV filters are the most preferred means of photoprotection but the safety and efficacy of UV filters are in question. Benzophenone (BP) and its derivatives, namely, benzophenone 1 (BP1), is commonly used in sunscreens as a UV blocker. The aim of this study was to assess the effects of BP and BP1 on the differential expression of proteins in human keratinocytes (HaCaT cells) under exposure to ultraviolet A radiation. Photosensitive proteins were screened from HaCaT cells by two-dimensional (2-D) gel electrophoresis, and identification of these differentially expressed proteins was performed by matrix-assisted laser desorption/ionization-time-of-flight (MALDI-TOF)/TOF mass spectrometry. Protein identification was performed using the search program MASCOT and a database made of SUMO and GhJMJ12 amino acid sequences. Our results showed that the proteins involved directly or indirectly in apoptosis are 70 kDa heat shock protein, long-chain specific acyl-CoA dehydrogenase, serine/threonine-protein kinase, and FAM78A protein, which were upregulated in comparison to control HaCaT cells. The expressions of binding immunoglobulin protein, podocalyxin-like protein, actin, cytoplasmic, and calreticulin precursors were downregulated. The altered protein expression indicated that cell growth arrest and apoptosis were potential mechanisms of cytotoxicity and genotoxicity of BPs. The results of 2-D gel electrophoresis followed by mass spectrometry showed expression of novel proteins involved in promoting or initiating apoptotic pathways. Hence, we conclude that BPs should be avoided as a UV blocker from sunscreens because of its potential to promote apoptotic proteins in human skin keratinocytes.

Chrysanthemum Morifolium Extract And Ascorbic Acid-2-Glucoside (AA2G) Blend Inhibits UVA-Induced Delayed Cyclobutane Pyrimidine Dimer (CPD) Production In Melanocytes

Background

Solar ultraviolet radiation (UV) induces DNA damages in skin via direct absorption of UVB or indirectly by photosensitization mediated through UVA. Recent findings have revealed that UVA induces cyclobutane pyrimidine dimer (CPD) generation via chemiexcitation in melanocytes hours after the exposure. This UVA-induced delayed CPD (dark CPD) constitutes the majority of CPD in melanocytes. These findings indicate that sun light can damage the skin hours after the exposure, suggesting the need for skin care products post sun exposure. The main objective of this study was to investigate whether a blend of Chrysanthemum Morifolium flower extract (Chrys) and vitamin C derivative, Ascorbic Acid-2-Glucoside (AA2G), can provide protective effects against reactive oxygen species, melanin formation and UVA-induced dark CPD.

Methods

Intracellular ROS levels were measured in epidermal keratinocytes using DHR123 dye. Melanogenesis inhibition efficacy was determined using B16 cells. As for the dark CPD measurement, Melan-a cells were treated with or without actives for 6 days, then irradiated with UVA at various doses. Cells were exposed with anti-CPD mAb followed by secondary Ab. CPD levels were determined by measuring fluorescent intensity using a high content imaging analysis.

Results

Chrys, AA2G and their blend at various concentrations demonstrated ROS scavenging activity. Though Chrys alone did not show significant melanogenesis inhibition in B16 assay, the blend of Chrys with AA2G demonstrated additive effects in comparison with AA2G alone. The blend of AA2G and Chrys at various concentrations exhibited enhanced efficacy for inhibiting dark CPD compared to AA2G alone.

Conclusion

The results from this study indicate that the use of natural antioxidant, Chrys in combination with AA2G, provides protection against UVA-induced delayed CPD formation by enhancing ROS scavenging activity and melanogenesis inhibition. These findings could potentially be applied for formulating post-sun exposure skin care products, possibly extending to evening-after care products.

Anti-aging and Sunscreens: Paradigm Shift in Cosmetics

Skin, being one of the vital organs and a protective barrier needs to be pampered and taken care of from early childhood. It is the most visible and the widest exposed organ and by far reflects the general health condition and the aging process in humans. Both intrinsic and extrinsic factors contribute to this complex biological process of skin aging. In recent times, skin health and its beauty is perceived as an indicator of one’s health which has resulted in an increasing demand for anti-aging products. Exposure to UV radiation is considered to be one of the factors responsible for aging termed as photoaging. In this review, we have discussed the various factors which may accelerate the process of skin aging. Various approaches and strategies to delay the process of skin aging have been emphasized upon. The patents filed in the area of anti-aging and sunscreen products have also been reviewed to gain an insight into the new formulations which have been developed as an anti-aging product. There has been a tremendous rise in the cosmetic and cosmeceuticals market with products having a dual activity of anti-aging and sun protection. Research is constantly on the rise to ensure the safety of these products. Alternatives to the current topical application of sunscreen are being considered to overcome the drawback of reapplication of the sunscreen often which can be a boon to the cosmeceutical market.

Anti-inflammatory / anti-oxidant activity of ingredients of sunscreen products? Implications for SPF

OBJECTIVE

The Sun Protection Factor (SPF) of sunscreen products is derived from testing in vivo their ability to prevent erythema ("sunburn"). Recently, certain articles have raised concerns that sunscreen products may actively suppress erythema via anti-inflammatory / anti-oxidant (AI/AO) activity. These articles reason that this may result in a higher labelled SPF value than that provided by the efficacy of the UVR filters alone, giving consumers a "false sense of security". On the other hand, since inflammatory processes are known to play a role in the mechanisms of photodamage / skin cancer induction and propagation, AI/AO activity may provide valuable incremental photoprotective benefit (provided that there is no interference with visible erythema). The objective of these studies, therefore, was to investigate the potential of AI/AO ingredients to suppress UVR-induced erythemal response in human skin, in vivo.

METHODS

In vivo studies with SPF30 sunscreen formulations containing a variety of AI/AO ingredients were performed according to the International Standard ISO24444:2010 method. While ISO24444:2010 requires assessment of erythema at 20 ± 4h post-irradiation, an additional assessment at 5 h post-irradiation was also used to determine potential delay in erythema development.

RESULTS

None of the formulations, containing a variety of AI/AO ingredients, influenced SPF determination in comparison to the vehicle formulation.

CONCLUSION

Our in vivo results demonstrate that commonly-used AI/AO ingredients, at concentrations typically used in sunscreen products, neither influence SPF value nor delay erythemal response, i.e., the measured SPF reflects the true photoprotective capacity of the product.

Photosensitivity and photoprotection in patients with lupus erythematosus

Lupus erythematosus (LE) represents a spectrum of inflammatory autoimmune disease comprising varying clinical entities ranging from primary cutaneous to systemic disease. There is a clear relationship between ultraviolet irradiation (UVR) and the clinical manifestations of LE in both adult and pediatric populations. Although it has been established that UVR exacerbates pre-existing LE, it remains unclear whether UVR induces the development of the disease. This review serves to discuss effective photoprotective measures in LE and describe the pathogenic relationship of UVR and LE.

Antioxidant properties of topical Caulerpa sp. extract on UVB-induced photoaging in mice

Caulerpa sp., a genus of seaweed native to the Indo-Pacific region, has been known for its antioxidant properties and health benefits when consumed as food. Previous studies have reported Caulerpa sp.’s potential as a strong antioxidant, but its effects on the skin in a topical preparation, especially its role in ultraviolet (UV) protection, have not been studied extensively. Our study investigated the protective effects of 0.2% and 0.4% Caulerpa sp. extract gels on photoaging in the UVB-irradiated skin of Wistar mice. The subjects were divided into naive control, vehicle control, and 3 treatment groups (0.2% Caulerpa sp. extract gel, 0.4% Caulerpa sp. extract gel, and 0.02% astaxanthin gel as a standard antioxidant). The groups, except the naive control group, received a total of 840 mJ/cm² of UVB irradiation in four weeks. Protective effects of the extract were measured through the evaluation of collagen expression, matrix metalloproteinase (MMP)-1 expression and levels, and 8-OhDG expression. Mice who received topical application of Caulerpa sp. extract gel had higher collagen expression, better-preserved collagen structure, lower levels of MMP-1, and less MMP-1 and 8-OHdG expressions compared to the vehicle control group. There was no difference between different concentrations of the extract. Our findings demonstrated that topical application of Caulerpa sp. extract gel significantly protected UVB-irradiated mice skin from photoaging.

The Potential of Using Bee Pollen in Cosmetics: a Review

During ancient times in China, bee pollen was used for skin whitening and beauty. Around 70% of substances in bee pollen are biologically active, such as proteins, carbohydrates, lipids and fatty acids, phenolic compounds, vitamins and bioelements.This review describes the cosmeceutical properties of bee pollen and the mechanism of its active components action, its beneficial influence on human skin. As a natural bee product, bee pollen may effectively enhance protective mechanisms against skin aging, skin dryness, ultraviolet B radiation, oxidative damage, inflammatory and melanogenesis, which are involved in a wide range of negative effects on human skin, thus they have attracted attention for health and cosmetic applications.

Blue light-induced oxidative stress in live skin

Skin damage from exposure to sunlight induces aging-like changes in appearance and is attributed to the ultraviolet (UV) component of light. Photosensitized production of reactive oxygen species (ROS) by UVA light is widely accepted to contribute to skin damage and carcinogenesis, but visible light is thought not to do so. Using mice expressing redox-sensitive GFP to detect ROS, blue light could produce oxidative stress in live skin. Blue light induced oxidative stress preferentially in mitochondria, but green, red, far red or infrared light did not. Blue light-induced oxidative stress was also detected in cultured human keratinocytes, but the per photon efficacy was only 25% of UVA in human keratinocyte mitochondria, compared to 68% of UVA in mouse skin. Skin autofluorescence was reduced by blue light, suggesting flavins are the photosensitizer. Exposing human skin to the blue light contained in sunlight depressed flavin autofluorescence, demonstrating that the visible component of sunlight has a physiologically significant effect on human skin. The ROS produced by blue light is probably superoxide, but not singlet oxygen. These results suggest that blue light contributes to skin aging similar to UVA.

Piperine attenuates UV-R induced cell damage in human keratinocytes via NF-kB, Bax/Bcl-2 pathway: An application for photoprotection

Chronic ultraviolet radiation (UV-R) exposure causes skin disorders like erythema, edema, hyperpigmentation, photoaging and photocarcinogenesis. Recent research trends of researchers have focused more attention on the identification and use of photo stable natural agents with photoprotective properties. Piperine (PIP), as a plant alkaloid, is an important constituent present in black pepper (Piper nigrum), used widely in ayurvedic and other traditional medicines and has broad pharmacological properties. The study was planned to photoprotective efficacy of PIP in human keratinocyte (HaCaT) cell line. We have assessed the UV-R induced activation of transcription factor NF-κB in coordination with cell death modulators (Bax/Bcl-2 and p21). The LC-MS/MS analysis revealed that PIP was photostable under UV-A/UV-B exposure. PIP (10μg/ml) attenuates the UV-R (A and B) induced phototoxicity of keratinocyte cell line through the restoration of cell viability, inhibition of ROS, and malondialdehyde generation. Further, PIP inhibited UV-R mediated DNA damage, prevented micronuclei formation, and reduced sub-G1 phase in cell cycle, which supported against photogenotoxicity. This study revealed that PIP pretreatment strongly suppressed UV-R induced photodamages. Molecular docking studies suggest that PIP binds at the active site of NF-κB, and thus, preventing its translocation to nucleus. In addition, transcriptional and translational analysis advocate the increased expression of NF-κB and concomitant decrease in IkB-α expression under UV-R exposed cells, favouring the apoptosis via Bax/Bcl-2 and p21 pathways. However, PIP induced expression of IkB-α suppress the NF-κB activity which resulted in suppression of apoptotic marker genes and proteins that involved in photoprotection. Therefore, we suggest the applicability of photostable PIP as photoprotective agent for human use.

Radical-Scavenging Activity of a Sunscreen Enriched by Antioxidants Providing Protection in the Whole Solar Spectral Range

BACKGROUND/AIM

The main reason for extrinsic skin aging is the negative action of free radicals. The formation of free radicals in the skin has been associated with ultraviolet (UV) exposure and also to visible (VIS) and near-infrared (NIR) irradiations. The aim of the present study was to evaluate the efficacy of a sunscreen in the whole solar range.

METHODS

The radical-scavenging activity of a sunscreen in the UV, VIS, and NIR ranges was evaluated using electron paramagnetic resonance spectroscopy. Ex vivo penetration profiles were determined using confocal Raman microscopy on porcine ear skin at different time points after application.

RESULTS

Compared to the untreated skin, the sunscreen decreased the skin radical formation in the UV and VIS regions. Additional protection in the VIS and NIR ranges was observed for the sunscreen containing antioxidants (AO). The penetration depth of the cream was less than 11.2 ± 3.0 µm for all time points.

CONCLUSION

A sunscreen containing AO improved the photoprotection in the VIS and NIR ranges. The sunscreen was retained in the stratum corneum. Therefore, these results show the possibility of the development of effective and safer sunscreen products.

From UV Protection to Protection in the Whole Spectral Range of the Solar Radiation: New Aspects of Sunscreen Development

Sunscreens have been constantly improving in the past few years. Today, they provide an efficient protection not only in the UVB but also in the UVA spectral region of the solar radiation. Recently it could be demonstrated that 50% of all free radicals induced in the skin due to solar radiation are formed in the visible and infrared spectral region. The good protective efficacy of sunscreens in the UV region prompts people to stay much longer in the sun than if they had left their skin unprotected. However, as no protection in the visible and infrared spectral region is provided, high amounts of free radicals are induced here that could easily exceed the critical radical concentration. This chapter describes how the effect of sunscreens can be extended to cover also the visible and infrared spectral region of the solar radiation by adding pigments and antioxidants with high radical protection factors to the sunscreen formulations.

Naringenin improves the sunscreen performance of vegetable nanocarriers

Naringenin enhances the UV protection, photostability and cell viability of lipid based vegetable nanocarriers.

Current challenges in photoprotection

Electromagnetic radiation in the ultraviolet, visible, and infrared ranges all produce biologic effects. Ultraviolet filters are the most well-studied photoprotective measure for the adverse effects of ultraviolet radiation. Because of the reported endocrinologic effects of oxybenzone in animal studies, its effects on coral reefs, and its photocontact allergy potential, its use has been minimized in many countries worldwide. New developments in topical antioxidants and oral and subcutaneous agents (eg, Polypodium leucotomos extract, afamelanotide, nicotinamide) with photoprotective and antiphotocarcinogenic properties could potentially provide addition modalities for protection against the effects of visible light and infrared radiation.

Mitochondrial damage and ageing using skin as a model organ

Ageing describes the progressive functional decline of an organism over time, leading to an increase in susceptibility to age-related diseases and eventually to death, and it is a phenomenon observed across a wide range of organisms. Despite a vast repertoire of ageing studies performed over the past century, the exact causes of ageing remain unknown. For over 50 years it has been speculated that mitochondria play a key role in the ageing process, due mainly to correlative data showing an increase in mitochondrial dysfunction, mitochondrial DNA (mtDNA) damage, and reactive oxygen species (ROS) with age. However, the exact role of the mitochondria in the ageing process remains unknown. The skin is often used to study human ageing, due to its easy accessibility, and the observation that the ageing process is able to be accelerated in this organ via environmental insults, such as ultra violet radiation (UVR). This provides a useful tool to investigate the mechanisms regulating ageing and, in particular, the role of the mitochondria. Observations from dermatological and photoageing studies can provide useful insights into chronological ageing of the skin and other organs such as the brain and liver. Moreover, a wide range of diseases are associated with ageing; therefore, understanding the cause of the ageing process as well as regulatory mechanisms involved could provide potentially advantageous therapeutic targets for the prevention or treatment of such diseases.

An Evaluation of Root Phytochemicals Derived from Althea officinalis (Marshmallow) and Astragalus membranaceus as Potential Natural Components of UV Protecting Dermatological Formulations

As lifetime exposure to ultraviolet (UV) radiation has risen, the deleterious effects have also become more apparent. Numerous sunscreen and skincare products have therefore been developed to help reduce the occurrence of sunburn, photoageing, and skin carcinogenesis. This has stimulated research into identifying new natural sources of effective skin protecting compounds. Alkaline single-cell gel electrophoresis (comet assay) was employed to assess aqueous extracts derived from soil or hydroponically glasshouse-grown roots of Althea officinalis (Marshmallow) and Astragalus membranaceus, compared with commercial, field-grown roots. Hydroponically grown root extracts from both plant species were found to significantly reduce UVA-induced DNA damage in cultured human lung and skin fibroblasts, although initial Astragalus experimentation detected some genotoxic effects, indicating that Althea root extracts may be better suited as potential constituents of dermatological formulations. Glasshouse-grown soil and hydroponic Althea root extracts afforded lung fibroblasts with statistically significant protection against UVA irradiation for a greater period of time than the commercial field-grown roots. No significant reduction in DNA damage was observed when total ultraviolet irradiation (including UVB) was employed (data not shown), indicating that the extracted phytochemicals predominantly protected against indirect UVA-induced oxidative stress. Althea phytochemical root extracts may therefore be useful components in dermatological formulations.

Dermato-protective properties of ergothioneine through induction of Nrf2/ARE-mediated antioxidant genes in UVA-irradiated Human keratinocytes

UVA irradiation-induced skin damage and redox imbalance have been shown to be ameliorated by ergothioneine (EGT), a naturally occurring sulfur-containing amino acid. However, the responsible molecular mechanism with nanomolar concentrations of EGT remains unclear. We investigated the dermato protective efficacies of EGT (125-500nM) against UVA irradiation (15J/cm(2)), and elucidated the underlying molecular mechanism in human keratinocyte-derived HaCaT cells. We found that EGT treatment prior to UVA exposure significantly increased the cell viability and prevented lactate dehydrogenase release into the medium. UVA-induced ROS and comet-like DNA formation were remarkably suppressed by EGT with a parallel inhibition of apoptosis, as evidenced by reduced DNA fragmentation (TUNEL), caspase-9/-3 activation, and Bcl-2/Bax dysregulation. Furthermore, EGT alleviated UVA-induced mitochondrial dysfunction. Dose-dependent increases of antioxidant genes, HO-1, NQO-1, and γ-GCLC and glutathione by EGT were associated with upregulated Nrf2 and downregulated Keap-1 expressions. This was confirmed by increased nuclear accumulation of Nrf2 and inhibition of Nrf2 degradation. Notably, augmented luciferase activity of ARE may explain Nrf2/ARE-mediated signaling pathways behind EGT dermato-protective properties. We further demonstrated that Nrf2 translocation was mediated by PI3K/AKT, PKC, or ROS signaling cascades. This phenomenon was confirmed with suppressed nuclear Nrf2 activation, and consequently diminished antioxidant genes in cells treated with respective pharmacological inhibitors (LY294002, GF109203X, and N-acetylcysteine). Besides, increased basal ROS by EGT appears to be crucial for triggering the Nrf2/ARE signaling pathways. Silencing of Nrf2 or OCTN1 (EGT carrier protein) signaling with siRNA showed no such protective effects of EGT against UVA-induced cell death, ROS, and apoptosis, which is evidence of the vitality of Nrf2 translocation and protective efficacy of EGT in keratinocytes. Our findings conclude that EGT at nanomolar concentrations effectively ameliorated UVA-induced skin damage, and may be considered as a desirable food supplement for skin protection and/or preparation of skin care products.

Photostability evaluation of five UV-filters, trans-resveratrol and beta-carotene in sunscreens

Trans-resveratrol (RES) is used in cosmetic formulations and beta-carotene (BTC) is a classical sunscreen antioxidant, but their photostability in sunscreens, a property directly correlated to performance and safety has not been addressed in the literature. This paper reports the assessment of RES and/or BTC influence on the photostability of five UV-filters (octyl methoxycinnamate - OMC, avobenzone -AVO, octocrylene - OCT, bemotrizinole - BMZ, octyltriazone - OTZ) in three different combinations after UVA exposure followed by the identification of degradation products and the assessment of photoreactivity. The evaluation of sunscreen photostability was performed by HPLC and spectrophotometric analysis, and degradation products were identified by GC-MS analysis. Components RES, BTC, OMC and AVO were significantly degraded after UV exposure (reduction of around 16% in recovery). According to HPLC analysis, all formulations presented similar photostability profiles. Eleven degradation products were identified in GC-MS analysis, among them products of RES, BTC, OMC and AVO photodegradation. All evaluated formulations were considered photoreactive, as well as the isolated compounds RES and AVO. Considering HPLC, spectrophotometric and GC-MS results, it is suggested that formulations containing BMZ were considered the most photostable. The combination RES+BTC in a sunscreen improved the photostability of AVO. The benefits of using a combination of antioxidants in sunscreens was demonstrated by showing that using RES+BTC+studied UV-filters led to more photostable formulations, which in turn implies in better safety and efficacy.

UVA-UVB photoprotective activity of topical formulations containing Morinda citrifolia extract

Exposure to solar radiation, particularly its ultraviolet (UV) component, has a variety of harmful effects on human health. Some of these effects include sunburn cell formations, basal and squamous cell cancers, melanoma, cataracts, photoaging of the skin, and immune suppression. The beneficial photoprotective effects of topical formulations with the extract, Morinda citrifolia, have not been investigated. This present study aims to investigate the potential benefits of M. citrifolia topical application on the dorsal skin of mice, exposed to UVA-UVB light. Using 7 days of treatment, [before (baseline values) and 20 h after UV exposure], the thickness, skin barrier damage (TEWL), erythema, and histological alterations were evaluated. The results showed that the formulations containing the extract protected the skin against UV-induced damage.

Efficacy of different carrier gases for barrier discharge plasma generation compared to chlorhexidine on the survival of Pseudomonas aeruginosa embedded in biofilm in vitro

Because of its antimicrobial properties, nonthermal plasma could serve as an alternative to chemical antisepsis in wound treatment. Therefore, this study investigated the inactivation of biofilm-embedded Pseudomonas aeruginosa SG81 by a surface barrier-discharged (SBD) plasma for 30, 60, 150 and 300 s. In order to optimize the efficacy of the plasma, different carrier gases (argon, argon admixed with 1% oxygen, and argon with increased humidity up to approx. 80%) were tested and compared against 0.1% chlorhexidine digluconate (CHG) exposure for 600 s. The antimicrobial efficacy was determined by calculating the difference between the numbers of colony-forming units (CFU) of treated and untreated biofilms. Living bacteria were distinguished from dead by fluorescent staining and confocal laser scanning microscopy. Both SBD plasmas and CHG showed significant antimicrobial effects compared to the untreated control. However, plasma treatment led to a higher antimicrobial reduction (argon plasma 4.9 log10 CFU/cm(2), argon with admixed oxygen 3 log10 CFU/cm(2), and with increased gas humidity 2.7 log10 CFU/cm(2) after 300 s) compared to CHG. In conclusion, SBD plasma is suitable as an alternative to CHG for inactivation of Pseudomonas aeruginosa embedded in biofilm. Further development of SBD plasma sources and research on the role of carrier gases and humidity may allow their clinical application for wound management in the future.

Molecular mechanisms of mouse skin tumor promotion

Multiple molecular mechanisms are involved in the promotion of skin carcinogenesis. Induction of sustained proliferation and epidermal hyperplasia by direct activation of mitotic signaling pathways or indirectly in response to chronic wounding and/or inflammation, or due to a block in terminal differentiation or resistance to apoptosis is necessary to allow clonal expansion of initiated cells with DNA mutations to form skin tumors. The mitotic pathways include activation of epidermal growth factor receptor and Ras/Raf/mitogen-activated protein kinase signaling. Chronic inflammation results in inflammatory cell secretion of growth factors and cytokines such as tumor necrosis factor-α and interleukins, as well as production of reactive oxygen species, all of which can stimulate proliferation. Persistent activation of these pathways leads to tumor promotion.

Signaling pathways targeted by curcumin in acute and chronic injury: burns and photo-damaged skin

Phosphorylase kinase (PhK) is a unique enzyme in which the spatial arrangements of the specificity determinants can be manipulated to allow the enzyme to recognize substrates of different specificities. In this way, PhK is capable of transferring high energy phosphate bonds from ATP to serine/threonine and tyrosine moieties in serine/threonine kinases and tyrosine kinases, thus playing a key role in the activation of multiple signaling pathways. Phosphorylase kinase is released within five minutes following injury and is responsible for activating inflammatory pathways in injury-activated scarring following burns. In photo-damaged skin, PhK plays an important role in promoting photocarcinogenesis through activation of NF-kB-dependent signaling pathways with inhibition of apoptosis of photo-damaged cells, thus promoting the survival of precancerous cells and allowing for subsequent tumor transformation. Curcumin, the active ingredient in the spice, turmeric, is a selective and non-competitive PhK inhibitor. By inhibition of PhK, curcumin targets multiple PhK-dependent pathways, with salutary effects on a number of skin diseases induced by injury. In this paper, we show that curcumin gel produces rapid healing of burns, with little or no residual scarring. Curcumin gel is also beneficial in the repair of photo-damaged skin, including pigmentary changes, solar elastosis, thinning of the skin with telangiectasia (actinic poikiloderma), and premalignant lesions such as actinic keratoses, dysplastic nevi, and advanced solar lentigines, but the repair process takes many months.

In vivo and in vitro evaluation of the use of a newly developed melatonin loaded emulsion combined with UV filters as a protective agent against skin irradiation

BACKGROUND

Melatonin has attracted attention because of their high antioxidant and anticarcinogenic activity. Otherwise, the use of sunscreens is recommended for patients after chemotherapy and radiotherapy treatments or to prevent UV radiation-induced skin damages that may result in pre-cancerous and cancerous skin lesions.

OBJECTIVE

To evaluate the beneficial influence of melatonin in topical sunscreen emulsions combined with three common ultraviolet filters.

METHODS

After the formulation characterization in terms of rheology, stability studies were performed. Release studies let us to evaluate its mechanism of delivery and ex vivo permeation study through human skin, the amount of melatonin retained. The antioxidant activity assay was also carried out, and finally the in vivo photoprotective effect in rats was tested as transepidermal water loss and erythema formation.

RESULTS

The rheological behaviour of formulations was pseudoplastic fluid, all emulsions had good physical stability. Release studies showed a trend of enhancement in melatonin release from emulsions incorporating UV filters and followed a Weibull model. Melatonin permeation was higher from the emulsion containing melatonin combined with a mixture of three ultraviolet filters (MMIX) formulation. Equally this formulation exhibited the highest radical scavenging activity. Finally the photoprotective assay showed that only skin areas treated with this formulation were statistically equivalent to the unirradiated control area.

CONCLUSION

MMIX formulation would be a promising formulation for preventing the undesirable adverse effects of UV skin irradiation because melatonin not only acts as a potent antioxidant itself, but also is capable of activating an endogenous enzymatic protective system against oxidative stress.