Oxidation events and skin aging

Herbal textual research of Belamcanda chinensis (L.) redouté and screening of quality-markers based on 'pharmacodynamics-substance'

ETHNOPHARMACOLOGICAL RELEVANCE

Belamcanda chinensis (L.) Redouté is widely distributed in East Asia, such as China, Russia and North Korea. Belamcandae Rhizoma is the sun-dried rhizome of B. chinensis and has a long history of traditional medicinal use. It was first recorded in the Shennong's Herbal Classic, and has the effects of clearing heat and detoxifying, eliminating phlegm and benefiting the pharynx.

AIM OF THE STUDY

To systematically study the source of Belamcandae Rhizoma, summarize the evolution of its medicinal properties, efficacy and the application history of its prescriptions, summarize its biological activity, phytochemistry, synthetic metabolic pathway and toxicology, and screen the Quality-Markers of Belamcandae Rhizoma according to the screening principle of traditional Chinese medicine Quality-Markers.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

All information available on Belamcandae Rhizoma was collected using electronic search engines, such as Pubmed, Web of Science, CNKI, WFO (www.worldfloraonline.org), MPNS (https://mpsn.kew.org), Changchun University of Traditional Chinese Medicine Library collections, Chinese Medical Classics.

RESULTS

The source of Belamcandae Rhizoma is B. chinensis of Iridaceae. It has a long history of application in China. It has the effects of clearing heat and detoxifying, eliminating phlegm and promoting pharynx. Modern pharmacological studies have shown that it has anti-inflammatory, anti-oxidation, anti-tumor and other physiological activities, and is safe and non-toxic at normal application doses. At present, tectoridin, iridin, tectorigenin, irigenin and irisflorentin are identified as the Quality-Markers of Belamcandae Rhizoma.

CONCLUSIONS

As a traditional Chinese medicine, Belamcandae Rhizoma has a long history of application, and multifaceted studies have demonstrated that Belamcandae Rhizoma is a promising Chinese medicine with good application prospects. By reviewing and identifying the Quality-Markers of Belamcandae Rhizoma, this study can help to establish the evaluation procedure of it on the one hand, and identify the shortcomings research on the other hand. Currently, there are few studies on the anabolism and toxicology of it, and future studies may focus on its in vivo processes, toxicology and adverse effects.

Salvianolic acid B protects against UVB-induced skin aging via activation of NRF2

BACKGROUND

Prolonged exposure to sun radiation may result in harmful skin photoaging. Therefore, discovering novel anti-photoaging treatment modalities is critical. An active component isolated from Salvia miltiorrhiza (SM), Salvianolic acid B (Sal-B), is a robust antioxidant and anti-inflammatory agent. This investigation aimed to discover the therapeutic impact and pathways of salvianolic acid B for UVB-induced skin photoaging, an area that remains unexplored.

METHODS

We conducted in vitro experiments on human dermal fibroblasts (HDFs) exposed to UVB radiation, assessing cellular senescence, superoxide dismutase (SOD) activity, cell viability, proliferation, migration, levels of reactive oxygen species (ROS), and mitochondrial health. The potential mechanism of Sal-B was analyzed using RNA sequencing, with further validation through Western blotting, PCR, and nuclear factor erythroid 2-related factor 2 (NRF2) silencing methods. In vivo, a model of skin photoaging induced by UVB in nude mice was employed. The collagen fiber levels were assessed utilizing hematoxylin and eosin (H&E), Masson, and Sirus red staining. Additionally, NRF2 and related gene and protein expression levels were identified utilizing PCR and Western blotting.

RESULTS

Sal-B was found to significantly counteract photoaging in UVB-exposed skin fibroblasts, reducing aging-related decline in fibroblast proliferation and an increase in apoptosis. It was observed that Sal-B aids in protecting mitochondria from excessive ROS production by promoting NRF2 nuclear translocation. NRF2 knockdown experiments established its necessity for Sal-B's anti-photoaging effects. The in vivo studies also verified Sal-B's anti-photoaging efficacy, surpassing that of tretinoin (Retino-A). These outcomes offer novel insights into the contribution of Sal-B in developing clinical treatment modalities for UVB-induced photodamage in skin fibroblasts.

CONCLUSION

In this investigation, we identified the Sal-B protective impact on the senescence of dermal fibroblasts and skin photoaging induced by radiation of UVB. The outcomes suggest Sal-B as a potential modulator of the NRF2 signaling pathway.

Unveiling the mechanism of high sugar diet induced advanced glycosylation end products damage skin structure via extracellular matrix-receptor interaction pathway

BACKGROUND

AGEs accumulate in the skin as a result of a high-sugar diet and play an important role in the skin aging process.

OBJECTIVES

The aim of this study was to characterize the mechanism underlying the effect of a high-sugar diet on skin aging damage at a holistic level.

METHODS

We established a high-sugar diet mouse model to compare and analyze differences in physiological indexes. The effect of a high-sugar diet on skin aging damage was analyzed by means of a transcriptome study and staining of pathological sections. Furthermore, the differences in the protein expression of AGEs and ECM components between the HSD and control groups were further verified by immunohistochemistry.

RESULTS

The skin in the HSD group mice tended toward a red, yellow, dark, and deep color. In addition, the epidermis was irregular with anomalous phenomena, the epidermis was thinned, and the dermis lost its normal structure and showed vacuolated changes. Transcriptomics results revealed significant downregulation of the ECM-receptor interaction pathway, significant upregulation of the expression of AGEs and significant downregulation of the expression levels of COLI, FN1, LM5, and TNC, among others ECM proteins and ECM receptors.

CONCLUSIONS

High-sugar diets cause skin aging damage by inducing the accumulation of AGEs, disrupting the expression of ECM proteins and their receptors, and downregulating the ECM-receptor interaction pathway, which affects cellular behavioral functions such as cell proliferation, migration, and adhesion, as well as normal skin tissue structure.

Exploring the interplay between stress mediators and skin microbiota in shaping age-related hallmarks: A review

Psychological stress is a major contributing factor to several health problems (e.g., depression, cardiovascular disease). Around 35 % of the world's population suffers from it, including younger generations. Physiologically, stress manifests through neuroendocrine pathways (Hypothalamic-Pituitary-Adrenal (HPA) axis and Sympathetic-Adrenal-Medullary (SAM) system) which culminate in the production of stress mediators like cortisol, epinephrine and norepinephrine. Stress and its mediators have been associated to body aging, through molecular mechanisms such as telomere attrition, mitochondrial dysfunction, cellular senescence, chronic inflammation, and dysbiosis, among others. Regarding its impact in the skin, stress impacts its structural integrity and physiological function. Despite this review focusing on several hallmarks of aging, emphasis was placed on skin microbiota dysbiosis. In this line, several studies, comprising different age groups, demographic contexts and body sites, have reported skin microbiota alterations associated with aging, and some effects of stress mediators on skin microbiota have also been reviewed in this paper. From a different perspective, since it is not a "traditional" stress mediator, oxytocin, a cortisol antagonist, has been related to glucorticoids inhibition and to display positive effects on cellular aging. This hormone dysregulation has been associated to psychological issues such as depression, whereas its upregulation has been linked to positive social interaction.

Insights into the role of mesenchymal stem cells in cutaneous medical aesthetics: from basics to clinics

With the development of the economy and the increasing prevalence of skin problems, cutaneous medical aesthetics are gaining more and more attention. Skin disorders like poor wound healing, aging, and pigmentation have an impact not only on appearance but also on patients with physical and psychological issues, and even impose a significant financial burden on families and society. However, due to the complexities of its occurrence, present treatment options cannot produce optimal outcomes, indicating a dire need for new and effective treatments. Mesenchymal stem cells (MSCs) and their secretomics treatment is a new regenerative medicine therapy that promotes and regulates endogenous stem cell populations and/or replenishes cell pools to achieve tissue homeostasis and regeneration. It has demonstrated remarkable advantages in several skin-related in vivo and in vitro investigations, aiding in the improvement of skin conditions and the promotion of skin aesthetics. As a result, this review gives a complete description of recent scientific breakthroughs in MSCs for skin aesthetics and the limitations of their clinical applications, aiming to provide new ideas for future research and clinical transformation.

Effects of an ergothioneine-rich Pleurotus sp. on skin moisturizing functions and facial conditions: a randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled trial

Background

L-ergothioneine (EGT), an antioxidative and anti-inflammatory amino acid, is abundant in various mushroom fruiting bodies. Meanwhile, the effects of EGT-containing mushrooms on human skin are unknown. This study investigated the effects of oral ingestion of a novel EGT-rich strain of Pleurotus species (hiratake) on skin conditions in humans.

Methods

We conducted a 12-week, randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled, parallel-group trial to evaluate skin moisturizing functions and facial conditions in 80 healthy women who were randomly assigned to either a group that was supplemented with hiratake tablets containing 25 mg of EGT/day or a placebo group. Skin moisture content, transepidermal water loss (TEWL), and facial scores (VISIA scores) were measured at baseline, 8 weeks, and 12 weeks of supplementation.

Results

At 8 weeks, the skin moisture content was significantly higher on the temple in the hiratake group than in the placebo group. The hiratake group also exhibited a significant increase in skin moisture content on the arm at 8 and 12 weeks compared with baseline. At 12 weeks, wrinkle and texture scores were significantly better in the hiratake group than in the placebo group, and plasma EGT concentrations in the hiratake group were 4.7-fold higher than baseline (from 3.4 to 15.9 μM). Furthermore, EGT concentrations in plasma were significantly correlated with improvements in skin moisture content and TEWL on the arm, implying that these skin moisturizing benefits could be partly attributed to EGT. A stratified analysis of participants with a low baseline plasma EGT concentration (< 3.3 μM) revealed that skin moisture content on the temple was significantly higher at 8 and 12 weeks, and skin moisture content on the arm at 12 weeks tended to be higher (p = 0.074), in the hiratake group than in the placebo group. These findings suggested that oral ingestion of EGT-rich hiratake can improve skin moisturizing functions.

Conclusion

EGT-rich hiratake may help maintain skin conditions in healthy women, and EGT may play a role in these beneficial effects.

Bioinformatics-based analysis of the relationship between plasminogen regulatory genes and photoaging

BACKGROUND

Ultraviolet radiation causes skin photoaging by producing a variety of enzymes, which impact both skin health and hinder beauty. Currently, the early diagnosis and treatment of photoaging remain a challenge. Bioinformatics analysis has strong advantages in exploring core genes and the biological pathways of photoaging.

AIMS

To screen and validate key risk genes associated with plasminogen in photoaging and to identify potential target genes for photoaging.

METHODS

Two human transcriptome datasets were obtained by searching the Gene Expression Omnibus (GEO) database, and the mRNAs in the GSE131789 dataset were differentially analyzed, and then the weighted gene co-expression network analysis (WGCNA) was performed to find out the strongest correlations. Template genes, interaction analysis of differentially expressed genes (DEGs), modular genes with the most WGCNA correlations, and genecard database genes related to plasminogen were performed, and further Kyoto genes and Genome Encyclopedia (KEGG) pathway analysis. Two different algorithms, least absolute shrinkage and selection operator (LASSO) and support vector machines-recursive feature elimination (SVM-RFE), were used to find key genes. Then the data set (GSE206495) was validated and analyzed. Real-time PCR was performed to validate the expression of key genes through in vitro cellular experiments.

RESULTS

IFI6, IFI44L, HRSP12, and BMP4 were screened from datasets as key genes for photoaging and further analysis showed that these genes have significant diagnostic value for photoaging.

CONCLUSION

IFI6, IFI44L, HRSP12, and BMP4 play a key role in the pathogenesis of photoaging, and serve as promising potential predictive biomarkers for photoaging.

Role of umbilical cord mesenchymal stromal cells in skin rejuvenation

Aging is the main cause of many degenerative diseases. The skin is the largest and the most intuitive organ that reflects the aging of the body. Under the interaction of endogenous and exogenous factors, there are cumulative changes in the structure, function, and appearance of the skin, which are characterized by decreased synthesis of collagen and elastin, increased wrinkles, relaxation, pigmentation, and other aging characteristics. skin aging is inevitable, but it can be delayed. The successful isolation of mesenchymal stromal cells (MSC) in 1991 has greatly promoted the progress of cell therapy in human diseases. The International Society for Cellular Therapy (ISCT) points out that the MSC is a kind of pluripotent progenitor cells that have self-renewal ability (limited) in vitro and the potential for mesenchymal cell differentiation. This review mainly introduces the role of perinatal umbilical cord-derived MSC(UC-MSC) in the field of skin rejuvenation. An in-depth and systematic understanding of the mechanism of UC-MSCs against skin aging is of great significance for the early realization of the clinical transformation of UC-MSCs. This paper summarized the characteristics of skin aging and summarized the mechanism of UC-MSCs in skin rejuvenation reported in recent years. In order to provide a reference for further research of UC-MSCs to delay skin aging.

The impact of sunlight exposure on brain structural markers in the UK Biobank

Sunlight is closely intertwined with daily life. It remains unclear whether there are associations between sunlight exposure and brain structural markers. General linear regression analysis was used to compare the differences in brain structural markers among different sunlight exposure time groups. Stratification analyses were performed based on sex, age, and diseases (hypertension, stroke, diabetes). Restricted cubic spline was performed to examine the dose-response relationship between natural sunlight exposure and brain structural markers, with further stratification by season. A negative association of sunlight exposure time with brain structural markers was found in the upper tertile compared to the lower tertile. Prolonged natural sunlight exposure was associated with the volumes of total brain (β: - 0.051, P < 0.001), white matter (β: - 0.031, P = 0.023), gray matter (β: - 0.067, P < 0.001), and white matter hyperintensities (β: 0.059, P < 0.001). These associations were more pronounced in males and individuals under the age of 60. The results of the restricted cubic spline analysis showed a nonlinear relationship between sunlight exposure and brain structural markers, with the direction changing around 2 h of sunlight exposure. This study demonstrates that prolonged exposure to natural sunlight is associated with brain structural markers change.

Incremental residual polarization caused by aging in human skin

Significance

The study of the effect of aging on the optical properties of biological tissues, in particular polarization, is important in the development of new diagnostic approaches.

Aim

This work aims to provide a comprehensive analysis of the factors and mechanisms that contribute to the alteration of skin polarization properties caused by aging, using polarization-sensitive hyperspectral imaging measurements and Monte Carlo simulation.

Approach

Our investigation involved both experimental studies of in vivo human skin of volunteers of different ages and computational modeling that accounted for changes in the absorption and scattering properties of the skin model. Specifically, we analyzed alterations in the degree of linear polarization (DOLP) to better understand the impact of aging on skin polarization properties.

Results

A statistically significant increase in the DOLP was found for the elderly group. At the same time, there was no correlation between changes in polarization and the calculated blood volume fraction parameter for different ages. According to the simulation results, it was also found that a change in the scattering properties of biological tissues has a more significant effect on the change in polarizing light compared to the change in absorption.

Conclusions

The results of the work prove that the sensitivity of polarization imaging to age- or pathological-related skin changes may be primarily due to changes in scattering, which in turn is associated with changes in the collagen fibers of the dermis. The proposed technique shows promise for in vivo non-invasive real-time assessment of age-associated skin changes and can also be extended to monitor changes associated with the development of age-related pathologies.

Inhibition of UVB radiation-induced tissue swelling and immune suppression by nicotinamide riboside and pterostilbene

BACKGROUND

Environmental ultraviolet radiation has deleterious effects on humans, including sunburn and immune perturbations. These immune changes are involved in skin carcinogenesis.

OBJECTIVES

To determine whether nicotinamide riboside and/or pterostilbene administered systemically inhibits inflammatory and immune effects of exposure to mid-range ultraviolet radiation.

METHODS

To examine UVB radiation-induced inflammatory effects, mice were fed standard chow/water, 0.04% pterostilbene in chow and 0.2% nicotinamide riboside in drinking water, diet with nicotinamide riboside alone, or diet with pterostilbene alone. After 4 weeks, mice were exposed to UVB radiation (3500 J/m2), and 24-/48-h ear swelling was assessed. We also asked if each agent or the combination inhibits UVB radiation suppression of contact hypersensitivity in two models. Mice were fed standard diet/water or chow containing 0.08% pterostilbene, water with 0.4% nicotinamide riboside, or both for 4 weeks. Low-dose: Half the mice in each group were exposed on the depilated dorsum to UVB radiation (1700 J/m2) daily for 4 days, whereas half were mock-irradiated. Mice were immunized on the exposed dorsum to dinitrofluorobenzene 4 h after the last irradiation, challenged 7 days later on the ears with dinitrofluorobenzene, and 24-h ear swelling assessed. High dose: Mice were treated similarly except that a single dose of 10,000 J/m2 of radiation was administered and immunization was performed on the unirradiated shaved abdomen 3 days later.

RESULTS

Nicotinamide riboside and pterostilbene together inhibited UVB-induced skin swelling more than either alone. Pterostilbene alone and both given together could inhibit UVB-induced immune suppression in both the low-dose and high-dose models while nicotinamide riboside alone was more effective in the low-dose model than the high-dose model.

CONCLUSION

Nicotinamide riboside and pterostilbene have protective effects against UVB radiation-induced tissue swelling and immune suppression.

Development of dietary small molecules as multi-targeting treatment strategies for Alzheimer's disease

Cognitive dysfunction can occur both in normal aging and age-related neurological disorders, such as mild cognitive impairment and Alzheimer's disease (AD). These disorders have few treatment options due to side effects and limited efficacy. New approaches to slow cognitive decline are urgently needed. Dietary interventions (nutraceuticals) have received considerable attention because they exhibit strong neuroprotective properties and may help prevent or minimize AD symptoms. Biological aging is driven by a series of interrelated mechanisms, including oxidative stress, neuroinflammation, neuronal apoptosis, and autophagy, which function through various signaling pathways. Recent clinical and preclinical studies have shown that dietary small molecules derived from natural sources, including flavonoids, carotenoids, and polyphenolic acids, can modulate oxidative damage, cognitive impairments, mitochondrial dysfunction, neuroinflammation, neuronal apoptosis, autophagy dysregulation, and gut microbiota dysbiosis. This paper reviews research on different dietary small molecules and their bioactive constituents in the treatment of AD. Additionally, the chemical structure, effective dose, and specific molecular mechanisms of action are comprehensively explored. This paper also discusses the advantages of using nanotechnology-based drug delivery, which significantly enhances oral bioavailability, safety, and therapeutic effect, and lowers the risk of adverse effects. These agents have considerable potential as novel and safe therapeutic agents that can prevent and combat age-related AD.

Protective effects of sugarcane polyphenol against UV-B-induced photoaging in Balb/c mouse skin: Antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and anti-glycosylation Effects

Although the benefits of sugarcane polyphenol (SP) are well documented, its function in preventing photoaging has not yet been investigated. This study aimed to investigate the protective effects of SP in preventing ultraviolet (UV)-B-induced skin photoaging in Balb/c mice, as well as the underlying mechanism. Chlorogenic acid was determined to be the primary component of SP by using high-performance liquid chromatography-mass spectrometry. SP and chlorogenic acid were orally administrated to mice for 56 days, and UV-B radiation exposure was administered 14 days after SP and chlorogenic acid administration and lasted 42 days to cause photoaging. SP and chlorogenic acid administrations significantly alleviated the UV-B-induced mouse skin photoaging, as indicated by the decrease in epidermal thickness, increase in the collagen (COL) volume fraction, and elevation in type 1 and type 3 COL contents. Notably, both SP and chlorogenic acid effectively reversed the overexpression of matrix metalloproteinase induced by UV-B exposure in the mouse skin. Furthermore, SP and chlorogenic acid reduced the expression of receptor for advanced glycosylation end products in the mice; amplified the activities of antioxidant enzymes superoxide dismutase and catalase; reduced malondialdehyde levels; and decreased inflammatory cytokines interleukin 1β, interleukin 6, and tumor necrosis factor α levels. SP could be a prospective dietary supplement for anti-photoaging applications due to its antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and anti-glycosylation attributes, and chlorogenic acid might play a major role in these effects. PRACTICAL APPLICATION: This study can provide a scientific basis for the practical application of sugarcane polyphenols. We expect that sugarcane polyphenols can be used in food and beverage products to provide flavor while combating skin aging.

Native collagen sheet mask improves skin health and appearance: A comprehensive clinical evaluation

BACKGROUND

Collagen, a critical structural protein found abundantly in animal skin and bones, has become increasingly recognized for its potential therapeutic role in skincare. Despite growing interest, the scientific evidence for the efficacy of collagen sheet masks remains limited. The principal objective of our study was to provide insights into the multifaceted role of collagen in skin health, with a specific focus on its application in collagen sheet masks.

METHODS

The effects of a collagen sheet mask consisting of >92% native bovine collagen were investigated. The soluble protein components of the collagen matrix were analyzed and the influence of soluble collagen components on fibroblast regulation was examined. Scanning Electron Microscope (SEM) analysis was performed for structural analysis and effect on irritated skin. Five different clinical studies were conducted, including a comparison of the diversity of the skin microbiome, the tolerance and local irritating reactions in atopic dermatitis, an evaluation of skin redness after UV radiation, wrinkle reduction, and hydration and skin roughness of the collagen mask in comparison to a pre-soaked cellulose sheet mask.

RESULTS

The collagen mask contains soluble protein components, including small collagen peptides. The mask showed potential for promoting fibroblast activity. SEM analysis showed a native collagen structure similar to human dermis. The mask maintained the skin microbiome diversity and decreased skin pH levels. It demonstrated good tolerability on both intact and lesional skin and had a significant effect in reducing erythema caused by UV radiation compared to other skincare products. It showed significant improvements in skin hydration and the volume of eye wrinkles and was more effective than pre-soaked cellulose sheet masks.

CONCLUSION

Collagen sheet masks have the potential to positively impact skin health and appearance by increasing hydration, reducing erythema, minimizing wrinkles, and maintaining a healthy skin microbiome and skin barrier.

The Effect of α-Arbutin on UVB-Induced Damage and Its Underlying Mechanism

Ultraviolet radiation can heighten tyrosinase activity, stimulate melanocyte production, impede the metabolism of numerous melanocytes, and result in the accumulation of plaques on the skin surface. α-Arbutin, a bioactive substance extracted from the arbutin plant, has been widely used for skin whitening. In this study, the whitening effect of α-arbutin by inhibiting tyrosinase activity and alleviating the photoaging effect induced by UVB are investigated. The results indicate that α-arbutin can inhibit skin inflammation, and its effectiveness is positively correlated with concentration. Moreover, α-arbutin can reduce the skin epidermal thickness, decrease the number of inflammatory cells, and down-regulate the expression levels of IL-1β, IL-6 and TNF-α, which are inflammatory factors. It also promotes the expression of COL-1 collagen, thus playing an important role in anti-inflammatory action. Network pharmacology, metabolomics and transcriptomics further confirm that α-arbutin is related to the L-tyrosine metabolic pathway and may interfere with various signaling pathways related to melanin and other photoaging by regulating metabolic changes. Therefore, α-arbutin has a potential inhibitory effect on UVB-induced photoaging and possesses a whitening effect as a cosmetic compound.

Combined exposure to UV and PM affect skin oxinflammatory responses and it is prevented by antioxidant mix topical application: Evidences from clinical study

BACKGROUND

Exposure to environmental stressors like particulate matter (PM) and ultraviolet radiation (UV) induces cutaneous oxidative stress and inflammation and leads to skin barrier dysfunction and premature aging. Metals like iron or copper are abundant in PM and are known to contribute to reactive oxygen species (ROS) production.

AIMS

Although it has been suggested that topical antioxidant may be able to help in preventing and/or reducing outdoor skin damage, limited clinical evidence under real-life exposure conditions have been reported. The aim of the present study was to evaluate the ability of a topical serum containing 15% ascorbic acid, 0.5% ferulic acid, and 1% tocopherol (CF Mix) to prevent oxinflammatory skin damage and premature aging induced by PM + UV in a human clinical trial.

METHODS

A 4-day single-blinded, clinical study was conducted on the back of 15 females (18-40 years old). During the 4 consecutive days, the back test zones were treated daily with or without the CF Mix, followed by with/without 2 h of PM and 5 min of UV daily exposure.

RESULTS

Application of the CF Mix prevented PM + UV-induced skin barrier perturbation (Involucrin and Loricrin), lipid peroxidation (4HNE), inflammatory markers (COX2, NLRP1, and AhR), and MMP9 activation. In addition, CF Mix was able to prevent Type I Collagen loss.

CONCLUSION

This is the first human study confirming the multipollutants cutaneous damage and suggesting the utility of a daily antioxidant topical application to prevent pollution induced skin damage.

Quantitative Assessment of Ultraviolet-Induced Erythema and Tanning Responses in the Han Chinese Population

Ultraviolet radiation (UVR) can induce erythema and tanning responses with strong diversity within and between populations, but there were no precise method for evaluating the variation in these responses. In this study, we assessed the time course of ultraviolet (UV)-induced responses based on the erythema index (EI) and melanin index (MI) over 14 consecutive days in a pilot cohort study (N = 31). From safety evaluations, we found that no skin blisters occurred at a UV dosage of 45 mJ/cm2, but there were significant skin reactions. Regardless of UV dosage, the measurements and variances of EI peaked on day 1 after UV irradiation, and those of MI peaked on day 7. Dose-response curves, including erythema dose-response (EDR) and melanin dose-response (MDR), could measure UV-induced phenotypes sensitively but more laboriously. As an alternative, we directly represented the UV-induced erythema and tanning responses using the erythema increment (ΔE) and melanin increment (ΔM). We found that ΔE and ΔM at 45 mJ/cm2 significantly correlated with erythema dose-response (EDR) (R 2 > 0.9) and melanin dose-response (MDR) (R 2 > 0.9), respectively. Therefore, ΔE and ΔM on day 1 and day 7 after UV irradiation at a dosage of 45 mJ/cm2 might be ideal alternative measures for assessing individual erythema and tanning responses. Then, a second cohort (N = 664) was recruited to validate the UV-induced phenotypes, and, as expected, the results of the two cohorts were in agreement. Therefore, we developed a simplified and precise method to quantify the UV-induced erythema response and tanning ability for the Han Chinese population.

Supplementary Information

The online version contains supplementary material available at 10.1007/s43657-023-00105-1.

A study of anti-wrinkle functions and improvement of cream with Phaseolus angularis

Chronic exposure to ultraviolet (UV) radiation from sunlight accelerates skin ageing, which is followed by harsh, thick, dry and loose conditions. One of the most demonstrative symptoms is deep wrinkles induced by skin barrier disruption. Our previous research showed that Phaseolus angularis seed extract (PASE) effectively inhibits skin ageing through UVB protection in HaCaT cells by suppressing skin damage. However, its efficacy has not been evaluated in clinical trials so far. PASE cream's effectiveness was initially tested on the artificial skin model, revealing an increase in filaggrin and defence against skin damage. Based on these results, in this single-centred, randomized, double-blind study, we investigated the anti-ageing effect of PASE in human eye wrinkle areas. For these 21 healthy adult women aged 30 to 59, a PASE cream was applied to the right eye wrinkle area and a placebo to the left eye wrinkle area twice a day (morning and evening) for 12 weeks. The change in thick, deep crease wrinkles around the eyes was confirmed by visual evaluation, skin measurements and a questionnaire. As a result, the surface roughness (R1), maximum roughness (R2), average roughness (R3), smoothness depth (R4) and arithmetic mean roughness (R5) values in the group using the PASE cream all decreased. Particularly, R1, R4 and R5 significantly decreased by 18.1%, 18.6% and 25.0%, respectively. Subjects who applied PASE cream also experienced an improvement in skin moisture nearly twice the time compared to the placebo group. In addition, no participants reported side effects. Our study showed that PASE cream led to clinically significant levels of wrinkle improvement. In conclusion, as PASE is a natural, safe food with no side effects, it can be a good resource for natural anti-wrinkle functional cosmetics in the future.

Polyphenolic Platform Ameliorated Sanshool for Skin Photoprotection

Natural evolution has nurtured a series of active molecules that play vital roles in physiological systems, but their further applications have been severely limited by rapid deactivation, short cycle time, and potential toxicity after isolation. For instance, the instability of structures and properties has greatly descended when sanshool is derived from Zanthoxylum xanthoxylum. Herein, natural polyphenols are employed to boost the key properties of sanshool by fabricating a series of nanoparticles (NPs). The intracellular evaluation and in vivo animal model are conducted to demonstrate the decreased photodamage score and skin-fold thickness of prepared NPs, which can be attributed to the better biocompatibility, improved free radical scavenging, down-regulated apoptosis ratios, and reduced DNA double-strand breaks compared to naked sanshool. This work proposes a novel strategy to boost the key properties of naturally occurring active molecules with the assistance of natural polyphenol-based platforms.

Mechanistic Insights into the Multiple Functions of Niacinamide: Therapeutic Implications and Cosmeceutical Applications in Functional Skincare Products

Niacinamide (or nicotinamide) is a small-molecule hydrosoluble vitamin with essential metabolic functions in mammalian cells. Niacinamide has become a key functional ingredient in diverse skincare products and cosmetics. This vitamin plays a pivotal role in NAD+ synthesis, notably contributing to redox reactions and energy production in cutaneous cells. Via diversified biochemical mechanisms, niacinamide is also known to influence human DNA repair and cellular stress responses. Based on decades of safe use in cosmetics, niacinamide recently gained widespread popularity as an active ingredient which aligns with the "Kligman standards" in skincare. From a therapeutic standpoint, the intrinsic properties of niacinamide may be applied to managing acne vulgaris, melasma, and psoriasis. From a cosmeceutical standpoint, niacinamide has been widely leveraged as a multipurpose antiaging ingredient. Therein, it was shown to significantly reduce cutaneous oxidative stress, inflammation, and pigmentation. Overall, through multimodal mechanisms, niacinamide may be considered to partially prevent and/or reverse several biophysical changes associated with skin aging. The present narrative review provides multifactorial insights into the mechanisms of niacinamide's therapeutic and cosmeceutical functions. The ingredient's evolving role in skincare was critically appraised, with a strong focus on the biochemical mechanisms at play. Finally, novel indications and potential applications of niacinamide in dermal fillers and alternative injectable formulations were prospectively explored.

Bioactive Compounds and Potential Health Benefits through Cosmetic Applications of Cherry Stem Extract

Cherry stems, prized in traditional medicine for their potent antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties, derive their efficacy from abundant polyphenols and anthocyanins. This makes them an ideal option for addressing skin aging and diseases. This study aimed to assess the antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effects of cherry stem extract for potential skincare use. To this end, the extract was first comprehensively characterized by HPLC-ESI-qTOF-MS. The extract's total phenolic content (TPC), antioxidant capacity, radical scavenging efficiency, and its ability to inhibit enzymes related to skin aging were determined. A total of 146 compounds were annotated in the cherry stem extract. The extract effectively fought against NO· and HOCl radicals with IC50 values of 2.32 and 5.4 mg/L. Additionally, it inhibited HYALase, collagenase, and XOD enzymes with IC50 values of 7.39, 111.92, and 10 mg/L, respectively. Based on the promising results that were obtained, the extract was subsequently gently integrated into a cosmetic gel at different concentrations and subjected to further stability evaluations. The accelerated stability was assessed through temperature ramping, heating-cooling cycles, and centrifugation, while the long-term stability was evaluated by storing the formulations under light and dark conditions for three months. The gel formulation enriched with cherry stem extract exhibited good stability and compatibility for topical application. Cherry stem extract may be a valuable ingredient for creating beneficial skincare cosmeceuticals.

Effects of collagen hydrolysates on UV-induced photoaging mice: Gly-Pro-Hyp as a potent anti-photoaging peptide

This work aimed to investigate the protective effects of collagen hydrolysates containing different contents of Gly-Pro-Xaa tripeptides on UV-induced photoaging mice and to identify potent anti-photoaging peptides. Results showed that oral ingestion of collagen hydrolysates with a higher content of Gly-Pro-Xaa tripeptides (∼11.4%, HCH) dramatically enhanced the absorption of Pro-Hyp, Hyp-Gly, and Gly-Pro-Hyp into the body, which were 1.77-, 2.18-, and 65.07-fold higher in area under the concentration-time curve (AUC) values than that of collagen hydrolysates with a lower content of Gly-Pro-Xaa tripeptides (∼3.8%, LCH), respectively. Furthermore, the protective effects of HCH on the photo-aged skin of mice were significantly stronger than those of LCH in terms of increases in the contents of hyaluronic acid and collagen, improvement in skin elasticity and epidermal thickness, alleviation in inflammation, and decreases in the contents of matrix metalloproteinase-1 (MMP-1) and MMP-3. More importantly, Gly-Pro-Hyp displayed potent anti-photoaging activities comparable to HCH based on an equivalent amount of Hyp. Network pharmacology analysis for potential mechanisms further indicated that Gly-Pro-Hyp might interact with JUN and FOS and regulate IL-17 and TNF signaling pathways. Collectively, our results suggested that HCH had great potential to be applied in functional foods for skin health and Gly-Pro-Hyp was found to be a potent collagen-derived anti-photoaging peptide, which might contribute to the excellent anti-photoaging effects of HCH.

Photoaged Tire Wear Particles Leading to the Oxidative Damage on Earthworms (Eisenia fetida) by Disrupting the Antioxidant Defense System: The Definitive Role of Environmental Free Radicals

Tire wear particles (TWPs) have caused increasing concerns due to their detrimental effects on the soil ecosystem. However, the role of weathering in altering the toxicity of TWP to soil organisms is poorly understood. In this study, the toxicity of original and photoaged TWP was compared using earthworms (Eisenia fetida) as soil model organisms. The obtained results indicated that photoaging of TWP resulted in an increase of environmentally persistent free radicals (EPFRs) from 3.69 × 1017 to 5.20 × 1017 spin/g. Meanwhile, photoaged TWP induced the changes of toxic endpoint in E. fetide, i.e., the increase of the weight loss and death ratio from 0.0425 to 0.0756 g/worm and 23.3 to 50% compared to original TWP under a 10% concentration, respectively. Analyses of transcriptomics, antioxidant enzyme activity, and histopathology demonstrated that the enhanced toxicity was mainly due to oxidative damage, which was induced by disruption in the antioxidant defense system. Free-radical quenching and correlation analysis further suggested that the excessive production of ex vivo reactive oxygen species, induced by EPFRs, led to the exhaustion of the antioxidant defense system. Overall, this work provides new insights into the potential hazard of the weathered TWP in a soil environment and has significant implications for the recycling and proper disposal of spent tire particles.

Synthesis and evaluation of coumarin derivatives on antioxidative, tyrosinase inhibitory activities, melanogenesis, and in silico investigations

New coumarin derivatives were designed using a 2-(2-oxo-2H-chromen-4-yl)acetic acid scaffold conjugated with amino acid esters or tyramine. The anti-tyrosinase and anti-lipid peroxidation activities of the synthesized compounds were investigated. Coumarin derivatives 7,9, 11-13, 15-18 showed strong anti-lipid peroxidation activity. Compound 13 exhibited uncompetitive tyrosinase inhibitory activity with an IC50 value of 68.86 µM. Compound 14 (% activity = 123.41) showed stronger tyrosinase activating activity than 8-methoxypsolaren (8-MOP, % activity = 109.46). In silico studies revealed different poses between the inhibitors and activators near the tyrosinase catalytic site. Compounds 13 (25-50 μM) and 14 (25-100 μM) did not show cytotoxicity against B16F10 cells. In contrast to the tyrosinase inhibition assay, compound 13 (50 μM) suppressed melanogenesis in B16F10 cells with two times higher potency than KA (100 μM). Compound 14 at 100 μM showed melanogenesis enhancement in B16F10 cells in a dose-dependent manner, however, inferior to the 8-MOP. Based on the findings, compound 13 and 14 offer potential for development as skin-lightening agents and vitiligo therapy agents, respectively.

Discovery of matrix metalloproteinase inhibitors as anti-skin photoaging agents

Photodamage is the result of prolonged exposure of the skin to sunlight. This exposure causes an overexpression of matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs), leading to the abnormal degradation of collagen in the skin tissue and resulting in skin aging and damage. This review presents a detailed overview of MMPs as a potential target for addressing skin aging. Specifically, we elucidated the precise mechanisms by which MMP inhibitors exert their anti-photoaging effects. Furthermore, we comprehensively analyzed the current research progress on MMP inhibitors that demonstrate significant inhibitory activity against MMPs and anti-skin photoaging effects. The review also provides insights into the structure-activity relationships of these inhibitors. Our objective in conducting this review is to provide valuable practical information to researchers engaged in investigations on anti-skin photoaging.

Knowledge, attitude, and practice toward photoaging in the Chinese population: a cross-sectional study

To investigate the knowledge, attitude, and practice (KAP) of photoaging in the Chinese population. This web-based cross-sectional study was conducted between January 2023 and March 2023 among the Chinese population aged 18-80 years old. Participants' knowledge, attitude, and practice toward photoaging were collected through a self-administered questionnaire. A total of 830 questionnaires were collected, with 826 valid questionnaires and an efficiency rate of 99.52%. There were 274 (33.17%) males and 532 (64.41%) aged 31-51 years old. The average knowledge, attitude, and practice scores were 7 (4, 9) (possible range 0-12), 31.5 (28, 34) (possible range 8-40), and 33 (24, 42) (possible range 11-55), respectively, indicating poor knowledge, good attitude, and moderate practice. Spearman correlation analysis showed that knowledge was negatively correlated with attitude (r = - 0.111, P < 0.05) and practice (r = - 0.113, P < 0.05), and attitude was positively correlated with practice (r = 0.992, P < 0.05). The multivariable linear regression model showed that for each point increase in attitude score, the practice score increased by 2.96 points (β = 2.96, 95% CI 2.91-3.01, P < 0.001). The Chinese population has poor knowledge, good attitude, and moderate practice toward photoaging. A good attitude toward photoaging would lead to good practice, and more outreach and education for the Chinese population might be needed.

Actinidia polygama Water Extract (APWE) Protects Against UVB-Induced Photoaging via MAPK/AP-1 and TGFβ-Smad Pathway

BACKGROUND

Actinidia polygama (silver vine) has been used in oriental medicine to treat gout, rheumatoid arthritis, and inflammation. Actinidia polygama water extract (APWE) is named PB203.

OBJECTIVE

To investigate whether PB203 has anti-photoaging effects and to understand the molecular mechanism underlying such effects.

METHODS

The antioxidant effect was assessed by 1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl assay and 2',7'-dichlorodihydrofluorescein diacetate staining in ultraviolet B (UVB)-irradiated HaCaT cells with or without PB203 treatment. Type I collagen, matrix metalloproteinase-1 (MMP-1), tissue inhibitor of metalloproteinase (TIMP-1), hyaluronic acid (HA), hyaluronan synthase 1 (HAS1) and HAS2 levels were measuring by enzyme-linked immunosorbent assay or reverse transcription quantitative polymerase chain reaction. Also, we investigate the effects of PB203 on wrinkle formation, and the potential mechanisms underlying such effects were investigated in UVB-induced wrinkle mouse model mice.

RESULTS

PB203 alleviated the UVB-induced reactive oxygen species production, phosphorylation of JNK, ERK, and p38, and formation of AP-1. In addition, PB203 inhibited the decreases in type I collagen and TIMP-1 levels, and the increase in MMP-1 levels in UVB-exposed HaCaT cells. In UVB-induced wrinkle mouse model, PB203 inhibited the decreases in elastin and type I collagen levels as well as the increases in MMP-1 expression, wrinkle formation, and skin dehydration. Furthermore, PB203 increased the expression of filaggrin, HAS1, and HAS2, improving the skin barrier function.

CONCLUSION

Taken together, we found that PB203 is as a potent candidate to serve as a functional ingredient or therapeutic agent to improve UVB-mediated skin aging.

Cutaneous Redox Senescence

Our current understanding of skin cell senescence involves the role of environmental stressors (UV, O3, cigarette smoke, particulate matter, etc.), lifestyle (diet, exercise, etc.) as well as genetic factors (metabolic changes, hormonal, etc.). The common mechanism of action of these stressors is the disturbance of cellular redox balance characterized by increased free radicals and reactive oxygen species (ROS), and when these overload the intrinsic antioxidant defense system, it can lead to an oxidative stress cellular condition. The main redox mechanisms that activate cellular senescence in the skin involve (1) the oxidative damage of telomeres causing their shortening; (2) the oxidation of proteomes and DNA damage; (3) an a in lysosomal mass through the increased activity of resident enzymes such as senescence-associated β-galactosidase (SA-β-gal) as well as other proteins that are products of lysosomal activity; (4) and the increased expression of SASP, in particular pro-inflammatory cytokines transcriptionally regulated by NF-κB. However, the main targets of ROS on the skin are the proteome (oxi-proteome), followed by telomeres, nucleic acids (DNAs), lipids, proteins, and cytoplasmic organelles. As a result, cell cycle arrest pathways, lipid peroxidation, increased lysosomal content and dysfunctional mitochondria, and SASP synthesis occur. Furthermore, oxidative stress in skin cells increases the activity of p16INK4A and p53 as inhibitors of Rb and CDks, which are important for maintaining the cell cycle. p53 also promotes the inactivation of mTOR-mediated autophagic and apoptotic pathways, leading to senescence. However, these markers alone cannot establish the state of cellular senescence, and multiple analyses are encouraged for confirmation. An updated and more comprehensive approach to investigating skin senescence should include further assays of ox-inflammatory molecular pathways that can consolidate the understanding of cutaneous redox senescence.

Aging in the dermis: Fibroblast senescence and its significance

Skin aging is characterized by changes in its structural, cellular, and molecular components in both the epidermis and dermis. Dermal aging is distinguished by reduced dermal thickness, increased wrinkles, and a sagging appearance. Due to intrinsic or extrinsic factors, accumulation of excessive reactive oxygen species (ROS) triggers a series of aging events, including imbalanced extracellular matrix (ECM) homeostasis, accumulation of senescent fibroblasts, loss of cell identity, and chronic inflammation mediated by senescence-associated secretory phenotype (SASP). These events are regulated by signaling pathways, such as nuclear factor erythroid 2-related factor 2 (Nrf2), mechanistic target of rapamycin (mTOR), transforming growth factor beta (TGF-β), and insulin-like growth factor 1 (IGF-1). Senescent fibroblasts can induce and accelerate age-related dysfunction of other skin cells and may even cause systemic inflammation. In this review, we summarize the role of dermal fibroblasts in cutaneous aging and inflammation. Moreover, the underlying mechanisms by which dermal fibroblasts influence cutaneous aging and inflammation are also discussed.

Oroxylin A ameliorates ultraviolet radiation-induced premature skin aging by regulating oxidative stress via the Sirt1 pathway

Skin is susceptible to premature aging in response to ultraviolet (UV) radiation-induced oxidative stress, which can ultimately result in aberrant aging or age-related disorders. Accordingly, strategies that can be adopted to mitigate oxidative stress may contribute to protecting skin from induced aging-related damage, thereby offering promising approaches for the treatment of skin diseases and disorders. In this regard, oroxylin A (OA), a natural flavonoid isolated from certain plants used in traditional Chinese medicine, is considered to have notable antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and anti-apoptotic properties, and is often used to treat certain inflammatory diseases. To date, however, there has been comparatively little research on the effects of OA with respect skin aging. In this study, we utilized UV radiation-induced mouse and cellular models of aging to assess the efficacy of OA in protecting against skin aging. Subsequently, to elucidate the potential mechanisms underlying the protective effect of OA on skin aging, we performed molecular docking analysis to investigate the involvement of the anti-aging gene Sirt1, which was further confirmed on the basis of Sirt1 gene silencing. We accordingly demonstrated that by promoting an increase in the expression of Sirt1, OA can contribute to suppressing UV-induced skin photo-aging in cells/mice by reducing oxidative stress. Furthermore, we established that by activating Sirt1, OA can also promote the dissociation of Nrf2 from Keap1 and its subsequent nuclear translocation. Collectively, our findings in this study reveal OA to be an effective natural compound that can be administered to delay the aging of skin triggered by UV, both in vivo and in vitro, by binding to Sirt1 to promote the deacetylation and nuclear translocation of Nrf2, thereby contributing to a reduction in oxidative stress. These findings may this provide a therapeutic target for the prevention of skin aging or aging-induced skin diseases.

Molecular mechanism of the anti-inflammatory and skin protective effects of Syzygium formosum in human skin keratinocytes

Irradiation injury, especially caused by UVB, of the skin is one of the critical reasons for skin inflammation and damage. The present study aimed to explore the protective effect of Syzygium formosum leafy extract (SFLE) and its mechanism of action against UVB-induced damages of human keratinocytes. In this study, SFLE was prepared from 100 kg dried leaves using industrial-scale processes. We found that SFLE markedly reduced markers of the skin inflammation in UVB-induced pro-inflammatory cytokines. Only 2 μg/mL of SFLE exhibited significantly stronger anti-inflammatory effects than the fivefold concentration of positive control. Intriguingly, an anti-inflammatory enzyme, heme oxygenase-1 expression was significantly induced by SFLE treatment. MMP-3 and -9 were, but not MMP-1, significantly reduced. SFLE inhibited the expression of the MAPK pathway, resulting in a decrease on UVB-induced reactive oxygen species. In conclusion, SFLE can potentially be used to treat skin inflammatory diseases.

Supplementary Information

The online version contains supplementary material available at 10.1007/s10068-023-01380-4.

Role of reactive oxygen species in ultraviolet-induced photodamage of the skin

Reactive oxygen species (ROS), such as superoxides (O2 •-) and hydroxyl groups (OH·), are short-lived molecules containing unpaired electrons. Intracellular ROS are believed to be mainly produced by the mitochondria and NADPH oxidase (NOX) and can be associated with various physiological processes, such as proliferation, cell signaling, and oxygen homeostasis. In recent years, many studies have indicated that ROS play crucial roles in regulating ultraviolet (UV)-induced photodamage of the skin, including exogenous aging, which accounts for 80% of aging. However, to the best of our knowledge, the detailed signaling pathways, especially those related to the mechanisms underlying apoptosis in which ROS are involved have not been reviewed previously. In this review, we elaborate on the biological characteristics of ROS and its role in regulating UV-induced photodamage of the skin.

Anti-aging formula protects skin from oxidative stress-induced senescence through the inhibition of CXCR2 expression

ETHNOPHARMACOLOGICAL RELEVANCE

The skin is affected by endogenous and exogenous factors, which are the intuitive consequence expression of aging. Aging not only affects the aesthetics of the skin but also causes the decline of skin functions, leading to many skin diseases and even skin cancer. Anti-aging formula (AAF) has various biological effects such as antioxidants, regulation of intestinal flora metabolism, anti-aging, and memory improvement. However, it is not clarified whether it could be anti-aging of the skin and the anti-aging mechanism.

AIM OF THE STUDY

This study aimed to investigate whether AAF could prevent skin from oxidative stress-induced senescence and explore the underlying molecular mechanisms.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

A mouse skin oxidative stress aging model was established based on ultraviolet (UV) irradiation, and parameters such as skin water content, melanogenesis, wrinkle production, pathological changes, and aging marker proteins were measured to elucidate whether AAF has an anti-aging effect on the skin. Subsequently, transcriptome sequencing (RNA-Seq) was used to identify target genes. An in vitro cellular senescence model was established to assess the role of AAF against cellular oxidative stress senescence by detecting senescence-related markers, while the specific mechanism of action of AAF in delaying skin senescence was elucidated by silencing or overexpression of targets.

RESULTS

In vivo experiments demonstrated that AAF significantly increased skin water content, reduced skin sensitivity and melanin content, slowed wrinkles, improved UV-induced epidermal thickening, increased collagen fiber content, improved elastic fiber morphology, and reduced the expression of senescence proteins P21 and P16 in skin tissues. The RNA-Seq results identified chemokine receptor 2 (CXCR2) as one of the potential targets for delaying skin senescence. In vitro experiments showed that AAF markedly improved the aging phenotype, and knockdown or overexpression experiments verified the essential role of CXCR2 in the skin senescence process. Mechanistic studies suggested that AAF inhibited the P38/P53 pathway by reducing CXCR2 expression, which improved the aging phenotype, reduced oxidative damage, and ultimately delayed cellular senescence.

CONCLUSION

The results reveal that AAF protects skin from oxidative stress-induced senescence by regulating the expression of critical target CXCR2, reducing P38 protein phosphorylation, and inhibiting P53 pathway activation. These discoveries implicate the potential of AAF in the protection of skin aging disease.

Nanoscale Composite Lignin Colloids with Tunable Visible Colors Used for Anti-UV Cosmetics

Nanoscale composite lignin colloids were prepared on a large scale with a process of assembly-mediated internal cross-linking in a good solvent, thus possessing absolutely nanoscale dimensions, excellent robustness, and less aggregation. The therefore prime UV resistance and various natural visible colors contribute to the preservation and beautification of skin.

Antioxidant peptides, the guardian of life from oxidative stress

Reactive oxygen species (ROS) are produced during oxidative metabolism in aerobic organisms. Under normal conditions, ROS production and elimination are in a relatively balanced state. However, under internal or external environmental stress, such as high glucose levels or UV radiation, ROS production can increase significantly, leading to oxidative stress. Excess ROS production not only damages biomolecules but is also closely associated with the pathogenesis of many diseases, such as skin photoaging, diabetes, and cancer. Antioxidant peptides (AOPs) are naturally occurring or artificially designed peptides that can reduce the levels of ROS and other pro-oxidants, thus showing great potential in the treatment of oxidative stress-related diseases. In this review, we discussed ROS production and its role in inducing oxidative stress-related diseases in humans. Additionally, we discussed the sources, mechanism of action, and evaluation methods of AOPs and provided directions for future studies on AOPs.

Sesamin attenuates UVA-induced keratinocyte injury via inhibiting ASK-1-JNK/p38 MAPK pathways

BACKGROUND

Ultraviolet (UV) exposure-stimulated reactive oxygen species (ROS) formation in keratinocytes is a crucial factor in skin aging. Phytochemicals have become widely popular for protecting the skin from UV-induced cell injury. Sesamin (SSM) has been shown to play a role in extensive pharmacological activity and exhibit photoprotective effects.

AIM

To assess the protective effect of SSM on UVA-irradiated keratinocytes and determine its potential antiphotoaging effect.

METHODS

HaCaT keratinocytes pretreated with SSM were exposed to UVA radiation at 8 J/cm2 for 10 min. Cell viability and oxidative stress indicators were evaluated using a cell counting kit-8 and lactate dehydrogenase (LDH), malondialdehyde (MDA), glutathione (GSH), and superoxide dismutase (SOD) assay kits. Apoptosis and intracellular ROS levels were analyzed using annexin V-fluorescein isothiocyanate/propyridine iodide and dichlorodihydrofluorescein diacetate staining, respectively. Protein levels of matrix metalloprotein-1 (MMP-1), MMP-9, Bax/Bcl-2, and mitogen-activated protein kinase (MAPK) pathway proteins, phospho-apoptosis signal-regulating kinase-1 (p-ASK-1)/ASK-1, phospho-c-Jun N-terminal protein kinase (p-JNK)/JNK, and p-p38/p38 were determined using western blotting.

RESULTS

Sesamin showed no cytotoxicity until 160 μmol/L on human keratinocytes. Sesamin pretreatment (20 and 40 μM) reversed the suppressed cell viability, increased LDH release and MDA content, decreased cellular antioxidants GSH and SOD, and elevated intracellular ROS levels, which were induced by UVA irradiation. Additionally, SSM inhibited the expression of Bax, MMP-1, and MMP-9 and stimulated Bcl-2 expression. In terms of the regulatory mechanisms, we demonstrated that SSM inhibits the phosphorylation of ASK-1, JNK, and p38.

CONCLUSION

The results suggest that SSM attenuates UVA-induced keratinocyte injury by inhibiting the ASK-1-JNK/p38 MAPK pathways.

Fermented black ginseng extract prevents UVB-induced inflammation by regulating the nc886-PKR pathway in human keratinocytes

BACKGROUND

Continuous exposure of the skin to ultraviolet B (UVB) rays can cause inflammation and photodamage. In previous studies, we observed that the upregulation of nc886, a noncoding RNA (ncRNA), can alleviate UVB-induced inflammation through suppression of the protein kinase RNA (PKR) pathway. We aim to investigate the effect of fermented black ginseng extract (FBGE), which has been shown to increase the expression of nc886, on UVB-induced inflammation in keratinocytes.

METHODS

To confirm the cytotoxicity of FBGE, MTT assay was performed, and no significant cytotoxicity was found on human keratinocytes. The efficacies of FBGE were assessed through qPCR, Western blotting, and ELISA analysis which confirmed regulation of UVB-induced inflammation.

RESULTS

The analysis results showed that FBGE inhibited the decrease in nc886 expression and the increase in the methylated nc886 caused by UVB. It also prevented the UVB-induced increase of metalloproteinase-9 (MMP-9), metalloproteinase-1 (MMP-1), cyclooxygenase-2 (COX-2), prostaglandin E2 (PGE2), interleukin-8 (IL-8) and tumor necrosis factor-α (TNF-α). Additionally, FBGE suppressed the PKR-MAPK pathways activated by UVB.

CONCLUSION

These results implicate that FBGE can alleviate UVB-induced inflammation through regulation of the nc886-PKR pathway.

Exploring the potential of the nano-based sunscreens and antioxidants for preventing and treating skin photoaging

Excessive exposure to sunlight, especially UV irradiation, causes skin photodamage. Sunscreens, such as TiO2 and ZnO, can potentially prevent UV via scattering, reflection, and absorption. Topical antioxidants are another means of skin photoprotection. Developing nanoparticles for sunscreens and antioxidants is recommended for photoaging prevention and treatment as it can improve uncomfortable skin appearance, stability, penetration, and safety. This study reviewed the effects of nano-sized sunscreens and antioxidants on skin photoprevention by examining published studies and articles from PubMed, Scopus, and Google Scholar, which explore the topics of skin photoaging, skin senescence, UV radiation, keratinocyte, dermal fibroblast, sunscreen, antioxidant, and nanoparticle. The researchers of this study also summarized the nano-based UV filters and therapeutics for mitigating skin photoaging. The skin photodamage mechanisms are presented, followed by the introduction of current skin photoaging treatment. The different nanoparticle types used for topical delivery were also explored in this study. This is followed by the mechanisms of how nanoparticles improve the UV filters and antioxidant performance. Lastly, recent investigations were reviewed on nanoparticulate sunscreens and antioxidants in skin photoaging management. Sunscreens and antioxidants for topical application have different concepts. Topical antioxidants are ideal for permeating into the skin to exhibit free radical scavenging activity, while UV filters are prescribed to remain on the skin surface without absorption to exert the UV-blocking effect without causing toxicity. The nanoparticle design strategy for meeting the different needs of sunscreens and antioxidants is also explored in this study. Although the benefits of using nanoparticles for alleviating photodamage are well-established, more animal-based and clinical studies are necessary.

Anti-inflammatory potential of ulvan

Green seaweeds are a widespread group of marine macroalgae that could be regarded as biorenewable source of valuable compounds, in particular sulfated polysaccharides like ulvans with interesting biological properties. Among them, anti-inflammatory activity represents an interesting target, since ulvans could potentially avoid side effects of conventional therapies. However, a great variability in ulvan content, composition, structure and properties occurs depending on seaweed specie and growth and processing conditions. All these aspects should be carefully considered in order to have reproducible and well characterized products. This review presents some concise ideas on ulvan composition and general concepts on inflammation mechanisms. Then, the main focus is on the importance of adequate selection of extraction, depolymerization and purification technologies followed by an updated survey on anti-inflammatory properties of ulvans through modulation of different signaling pathways. The potential application in a number of diseases, with special emphasis on inflammaging, gut microbiota dysbiosis, wound repair, and metabolic diseases is also discussed. This multidisciplinary overview tries to present the potential of ulvans considering not only mechanistic, but also processing and applications aspects, trusting that it can aid in the development and application of this widely available and renewable resource as an efficient and versatile anti-inflammatory agent.

Preparation of injectable porcine skin-derived collagen and its application in delaying skin aging by promoting the adhesion and chemotaxis of skin fibroblasts

Collagen, as the main component of human skin, plays a vital role in maintaining dermal integrity. Its loss will lead to dermis destruction and collapse, resulting in skin aging. At present, injection of exogenous collagen is an important means to delay skin aging. In this study, high-purity collagen was extracted from porcine skin. Our research revealed that it can effectively promote the adhesion and chemotaxis of HSF cells. It can also reduce the expression of β-galactosidase, decrease ROS levels, and increase the expression of the collagen precursors, p53 and p16 in HSF cells during senescence. After local injection into the aging skin of rats, it was found that the number of cells and type I collagen fibers in the dermis increased significantly, and the arrangement of these fibers became more uniform and orderly. Moreover, the important thing is that it is biocompatible. To sum up, the porcine skin collagen we extracted is an anti-aging biomaterial with application potential.

Anti-Aging Potential of a Novel Ingredient Derived from Sugarcane Straw Extract (SSE)

Natural and sustainable anti-aging ingredients have gained attention from the cosmetic industry. This study evaluated the anti-aging potential of a sugarcane straw extract-based (SSE) cosmetic ingredient. First, cytotoxicity tests were assessed in keratinocytes and fibroblast cell lines, and sensitization was carried out through the direct peptide reactivity assay. Subsequently, various anti-aging properties were investigated, including inhibiting skin aging-related enzymes, promoting elastin and hyaluronic acid synthesis, and anti-pollution activity. Finally, a permeability assay using a synthetic membrane resembling skin was conducted. The results demonstrated that the SSE ingredient effectively inhibited elastase (55%), collagenase (25%), and tyrosinase (47%) while promoting hyaluronic acid production at non-cytotoxic and low-sensitizer concentrations. Moreover, it reduced the inflammatory response provoked by urban pollution, as evidenced by decreased levels of IL1-α and IL-6. However, it was observed that the phenolic compounds predominantly reached the skin's surface, indicating a limited ability to penetrate deeper layers of the skin. Therefore, it can be concluded that the SSE ingredient holds anti-aging properties, albeit with limited penetration into deeper skin layers. Further research and formulation advancements are needed to optimize the ingredient's ability to reach and exert its effects in deeper skin layers.

The Association of Vitamin D with Non-Melanoma Skin Cancer Risk: An Umbrella Review of Systematic Reviews and Meta-Analyses

Background and Objectives: Previous studies revealed the anti-angiogenic, antiproliferative, and anti-inflammatory effects of Vitamin D (VitD) on cancer cells. Although this body of evidence supported the correlation of high VitD levels with reduced incidence rates for various malignancies, contradictory results were reported regarding non-melanoma skin cancer (NMSC). The aim of this overview was to summarize the available evidence from the existing pool of systematic reviews and meta-analyses, focusing on VitD serum status, dietary intake, and VitD receptor (VDR) polymorphisms in correlation to NMSC incidence. Materials and Methods: A literature search in electronic databases was conducted from inception to January 2023. The inclusion criteria were systematic reviews and meta-analyses published in peer-reviewed journals, evaluating VitD serum levels, dietary and/or supplementary intake, or VDR gene polymorphisms, and reporting data on NMSC. Results: A total of 10 studies were included in the data analysis models. A positive association between VitD serum levels and NMSC is highlighted. However, dietary/supplementation of VitD does not exhibit a likewise strong linkage to NMSC. Despite the contradictory findings, VDR polymorphisms may play a crucial role in the intricate NMSC pathogenesis. Conclusions: This umbrella review shows that high VitD levels are associated with increased NMSC incidence, potentially due to its direct correlation with increased sun exposure. Further research on VDR polymorphisms is suggested to explore their true effect size on NMSC risk.

Aging of the skin in pseudoexfoliation syndrome

BACKGROUND

It was reported that pseudoexfoliative material deteriorates iris, brain, heart and lung functions. This material is also found in the skin.

AIMS

The purpose of this study was to investigate the possible effects of pseudoexfoliation material on the aging of the facial skin.

STUDY DESIGN

Cross-sectional study.

METHODS

Forty pseudoexfoliation syndrome (PES) cases and 40 age- and gender-matched controls were evaluated. Job, cigarette use and the presence of any systemic diseases as well as the duration of sun exposure for all the cases were recorded. All of the cases underwent facial skin examination with Wrinkle Assessment Scale as per Lemperle G et al. and Pinch Test.

RESULTS

Wrinkle Assessment Scale scores of the groups also were compared for all 8 facial locations. There were statistically significant differences found between Wrinkle Assessment Scale scores in PES and Control Group for all 8 locations. Mean Wrinkle Assessment Scale scores of women were 4.12 ± 0.74 in Control Group and 4.75 ± 0.37 in PES group (p = 0.0001). For men, mean Wrinkle Assessment Scale scores were 3.77 ± 0.72 in Control group and 4.54 ± 0.36 in PES group (p = 0.002).

CONCLUSION

These results implies that there is quicker progression in aging of facial skin in PES than normals.

Nonclinical evaluation of a Vitis vinifera extract towards a novel antiaging cosmetic ingredient

BACKGROUND

Skin aging is regulated by multiple physiological processes, such as oxidative stress. Natural products have been considered as a promising source of antioxidant compounds. As a result, few innovative products on the market based on natural products tackle additional underlying mechanisms of skin aging.

AIMS

The present work reports the nonclinical evaluation of a novel extract from the skin of V. vinifera fruits (codified as ACH37 extract), with the aim of supporting its use as an antiaging cosmetic ingredient candidate in clinical trials.

METHODS

We employed enzymatic, phenotypic, and gene expression assays, both in vitro and ex vivo, to investigate the action of the ACH37 extract in different biological processes that could be related to skin aging mechanisms.

RESULTS

The ACH37 extract was able to scavenge reactive oxygen species (DPPH, O2 - ), prevent inflammation (LPS- and UV-induced COX-2, IL-1β, and IL-8 expression), modulate extracellular matrix remodeling (inhibiting elastase, MMP-1, MMP-3, and MMP-12, as well as associated expression), increase telomere length, telomerase activity, and reverse the UV-induced suppression of genes involved in skin protection. In addition, the ACH37 extract permeated human skin explants and presented antioxidant efficacy ex vivo.

CONCLUSION

The results indicated that the ACH37 extract acts on multiple targets commonly related to skin aging, being a promising antiaging active ingredient candidate to be further investigated in clinical trials.

Comparison of Pollutant Effects on Cutaneous Inflammasomes Activation

The skin is the outermost layer of the body and, therefore, is exposed to a variety of stressors, such as environmental pollutants, known to cause oxinflammatory reactions involved in the exacerbation of several skin conditions. Today, inflammasomes are recognized as important modulators of the cutaneous inflammatory status in response to air pollutants and ultraviolet (UV) light exposure. In this study, human skin explants were exposed to the best-recognized air pollutants, such as microplastics (MP), cigarette smoke (CS), diesel engine exhaust (DEE), ozone (O3), and UV, for 1 or 4 days, to explore how each pollutant can differently modulate markers of cutaneous oxinflammation. Exposure to environmental pollutants caused an altered oxidative stress response, accompanied by increased DNA damage and signs of premature skin aging. The effect of specific pollutants being able to exert different inflammasomes pathways (NLRP1, NLRP3, NLRP6, and NLRC4) was also investigated in terms of scaffold formation and cell pyroptosis. Among all environmental pollutants, O3, MP, and UV represented the main pollutants affecting cutaneous redox homeostasis; of note, the NLRP1 and NLRP6 inflammasomes were the main ones modulated by these outdoor stressors, suggesting their role as possible molecular targets in preventing skin disorders and the inflammaging events associated with environmental pollutant exposure.

Role of peptide-cell surface interactions in cosmetic peptide application

Cosmetic peptides have gained popularity in a wide range of skincare products due to their good biocompatibility, effective anti-oxidative properties, and anti-aging effects. However, low binding between peptides and the cell surface limits the efficacy of functional peptides. In this study, we designed two novel targeting peptide motifs to enhance the interaction between cosmetic peptides and the cell surface, thereby improving their performance for skin health. To achieve this, we optimized the well-known peptide tripeptide-1 (GHK) by separately grafting the integrin αvβ3-binding motif RGD and the chondroitin sulfate (CS)-binding motif sOtx2 onto it, forming two chimeric targeting peptides, RGD-GHK and sOtx2-GHK. Comparative analysis showed that both RGD-GHK and sOtx2-GHK exhibited superior anti-oxidative and anti-apoptotic effects compared to the non-targeting peptide, GHK. Furthermore, RGD-GHK demonstrated exceptional anti-aging activity, and its potential for promoting wound healing and repairing the skin barrier was evaluated in vitro using cells and skin models. In vitro permeation and in vivo adsorption testing confirmed that RGD-GHK achieved a high local concentration in the skin layer, initiating peptide effects and facilitating in vivo wound healing, while maintaining excellent biocompatibility. The enhancement of signaling cosmetic peptides can be attributed to the specific interaction between the binding motif and cell surface components. Consequently, this targeting peptide holds promising potential as a novel functional peptide for application in cosmetics.

Variation of Ferroptosis-Related Markers in HaCaT Cell Photoaging Models Induced by UVB

Objective

To investigate the variation of ferroptosis-related markers in HaCaT cell photoaging models induced by ultraviolet-B (UVB).

Methods

UVB-treated HaCaT cells served as the model (UVB group) for cellular photoaging, whereas untreated HaCaT cells served as the control group. HaCaT cells were exposed to UVB and the ferroptosis inhibitor Ferrostatin-1 (Fer-1) as part of the UVB+Fer-1 group, and co-cultured with the ferroptosis inducer Erastin as part of the UVB+Erastin group. Reactive oxygen species (ROS) detection kit and senescence-related β galactosidase (SA-β-gal) staining were used to evaluate the senescence of HaCaT cells. Lipid reactive oxygen species were detected by C11 BODIPY581/591 probe and mitochondrial morphology was observed by transmission electron microscopy. The mRNA expressions of glutathione peroxidase 4 (GPX4) and ferroptosis-suppressor-protein 1 (FSP1) were detected by real-time reverse transcription-PCR (RT-RCP), and the level of GPX4 protein was measured by immunofluorescence assay.

Results

The UVB group had considerably greater levels of ROS, SA-β-gal, and lipid reactive oxygen species than the control group. The UVB group's mitochondrial volume was reduced, the membrane density increased, and the mitochondrial crest decreased or even disappeared. GPX4 and FSP1 expression levels were similarly found to be lower in the UVB group. Furthermore, the positive rate of SA-β-gal and lipid reactive oxygen species in the UVB+Fer-1 group was much lower than in the UVB group, but it was reverse in the UVB+Erastin group. This study showed that induced ferroptosis can aggravate aging, and vice versa.

Conclusion

According to the findings, ferroptosis may be linked to UVB-induced skin photoaging, which could be attenuated by inhibition of ferroptosis.

Therapeutic potential of adipose tissue derivatives in skin photoaging

Photoaging, the primary cause of exogenous skin aging and predominantly caused by ultraviolet radiation, is an essential type of skin aging characterized by chronic skin inflammation. Recent studies have shown that oxidative stress, inflammation, skin barrier homeostasis, collagen denaturation and pigmentation are the main contributors to it. As a composite tissue rich in matrix and vascular components, adipose tissue derivatives have been recently gaining attention as potential therapeutic agents for various human diseases with fat-processing technology upgrades. This review analyzes both 'minimally treated' and 'nonminimally treated' fat derivatives to give an overview of the preclinical and clinical relevance of adipose tissue derivatives for antiphotoaging application, highlighting their good clinical prospects as well as discussing their safety and potential risks.

Oral Nicotinamide for Actinic Keratosis Prevention in Kidney Transplant Recipients: A Pilot Double-Blind, Randomized, Placebo-Controlled Trial

BACKGROUND

Oral nicotinamide (NAM) has shown promise in preventing actinic keratoses (AKs) in trials based outside of the United States. We assessed the efficacy of oral NAM supplementation in kidney transplant recipients with a history of keratinocyte carcinoma.

MATERIAL AND METHODS

Patients enrolled in a 2-week run-in phase, during which NAM 1000 mg was taken twice daily. After a washout period, patients who tolerated the run-in phase were randomized to NAM 500 mg twice daily or placebo. At baseline, 4, 8, and 12 months, dermatologists conducted full-body skin exams to document area-specific AKs. Routine lab work was collected to ensure the stability of renal allograft function.

RESULTS

The dosage was reduced from 1000 to 500 mg due to gastrointestinal symptoms in the run-in phase. Patients were randomized to NAM (n = 10) or placebo (n = 11). At 12 months, mean AK count was 30.8 (95% CI -11.7-73.4) for NAM and 26.6 (95% CI 10.8-42.5) for placebo. The difference in percent AK count change at 12 months compared with baseline was 259.8% (95% CI -385.9 to 905.5) for NAM and 72.4% (95% CI -118.6 to 263.5) for placebo. The between-group difference in percent AK change was not significant (P = .38). There was no attrition in the placebo group and 40% attrition in the NAM arm.

DISCUSSION

Nicotinamide did not decrease AK development among kidney transplant recipients. Limitations include drug tolerability, small sample size, and single-center trial nature.

Recent status of sesaminol and its glucosides: Synthesis, metabolism, and biological activities

Sesamum indicum is a major and important oilseed crop that is believed to promote human health in many countries, especially in China. Sesame seeds contain two types of lignans: lipid-soluble lignans and water-soluble glucosylated lignans. The major glucosylated lignans are sesaminol glucosides (SGs). So far, four sesaminol isomers and four SGs are identified. During the naturally occurring process of SGs production, sesaminol is generated first from two molecules of E-coniferyl alcohol, and then the sugar is added to the sesaminol one by one, leading to production of SGs. Sesaminol can be prepared from SGs, from sesamolin, and through artificial synthesis. SGs are metabolized in the liver and intestine and are then transported to other tissues. They exhibit several biological activities, most of which are based on their antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activities. In this paper, we present an overview of the current status of research on sesaminol and SGs. We have also discussed their synthesis, preparation, metabolism, and biological activities. It has been suggested that sesaminol and SGs are important biological substances with strong antioxidant properties in vitro and in vivo and are widely used in the food industry, medicine, and cosmetic products. The recovery and utilization of SGs from sesame seed cake after oil processing will generate massive economic benefits.